Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, February 11 2004 Volume 02 : Number
368
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Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2004 22:22:10 -0700
From: "Erik Petterson" <
erik@microworks.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Factory Head unit to aftermarket stereo
I have been helping Ted off list for a while too. I don't know if
that will help out his situation because he doesn't have an aftermarket
amp... He was looking for a stock stereo unit that had a built in amp all
in the deck. I know my old base model stealth worked like that (91
base). Most 2nd gen and above run the speakers of the stock amp under the
passenger's seat.
Hey Ted, maybe that junkyard also has the amp? Your car might already
have the wires run?
- -Erik
'94 R/T
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2004 23:22:04 -0600
From: "Ioan Raicu" <
iraicu@cs.wayne.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: clutch problems
Sorry for the long post, but the first paragraph summarizes the problems I
am having...
A few days ago, I lost 90% of the clutch pedal pressure :( The car
would not engage any of the gears anymore. The only way to get it in gear
is to turn off the engine, put it in gear, and start the car. The funny
thing is that once the gear is engaged, the clutch does work, and I can drive it
in the one gear that I started in, but if I take it out of gear, then I can't
put it back in until I turn off the engine... The clutch now engages
significantly higher than when it was working properly, it is significantly
lighter, and I can feel some vibrations as iff something is rotating on the
other side of the pedal (wierd!).
Here is the short history related to this problem.
- - 18 months ago,
the clutch went south after only 10K miles and about 13 months of use; it was an
RPS stage 3, and some spring came loose, and completely trashed the pressure
plate and the flywheel; symptoms were that the clutch was completely useless,
and that it was 100% always engaged (the car was practically undrivable)
- -
I purchased an RPS stage 2 along with an RPS aluminum flywheel
- - 7 months
ago, the master clutch cylinder went south, and I replaced both the master and
slave clutch cylinders
- - now, 15K miles after the last clutch change, I am
having problems again; I checked the fluid level in the clutch system, and it is
full; I have not driven the car hard in probably half a year, other than having
some highway fun (<100mph), but defenitly no red light drag racing or taking
the car to the drag strip...
I am about to take it to the dealer, but what should I be expecting...
another clutch change. If it really is the clutch again (probably the
springs on the clutch disk), then what other clutch disks can I get that won't
have this problem? I already tried the 6 puck cluthc disk, and that didn't
last very long, and the clutch disk that comes with the RPS stage 2 is supposed
to be the OEM clutch disk, so I figured it should be OK. The car has the
basic boost controller setup, but nothing else, so power is around 400HP or
less, and as I said earlier, the car was driven very nicely
(IMHO) since the
last clutch change...
Thanks in advance,
John Raicu
94 Yellow TT
PS: For the fellow 3S members in the Chicago area, is there any shop/dealer
anyone recommend for clutch work? How about 3S work in general?
Thanks!
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2004 23:31:46 -0600
From: "Jesse Rink" <
jrink@w3si.org>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
clutch problems
Contact Jeff at 414-379-5674 from Milwaukee Mopar Motorsports. Jeff
has done tons of clutch jobs on our cars. Most of us from the
Milwaukee/Chicago area go to him for work. He rates are very reasonable at
$40/hr and he knows what he's doing to top it off. Same thing with general
3/S work (turbos, etc.). Otherwise, if you're near SE Wisconsin, there's a
few of us that do our own work that might be able to help too, depending on the
difficulty of what's involved. Call Jeff.
Jesse Rink
Eagle, WI
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2004 21:25:17 -0800
From: "Grd4Spd Racing" <
grd4spdracing@cox.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: clutch problems
> A few days ago, I lost 90% of the clutch pedal pressure :(
master or slave bad.
> - 18 months ago, the clutch went south after only 10K miles and about
> 13 months of use; it was an RPS stage 3, and some spring came loose,
> and completely trashed the pressure plate and the flywheel;
very typical of RPS products, consider Clutch Master.
> - I purchased an RPS stage 2 along with an RPS aluminum
flywheel
> - 7 months ago,
couldnt get enough abuse eh? ;)
> - now, 15K miles after the last clutch change, I am having
>
problems again;
suprised?
> I am about to take it to the dealer,
NO.
>but what should I be expecting...another clutch change.
yep.
> If it really is the clutch again (probably the
> springs on the
clutch disk),
you have experience in this, no?
>then what other clutch disks can I get that
> won't have this
problem?
Clutch Masters.
contact me privatley for info.
regards,
terry
"If it doesn't make you go fast, we don't sell it"
Grd4Spd Racing -
www.grd4spd.com
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 5:59:24 +0000
From: <
swoosh4435@fuse.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: clutch problems
Alright, this just happend to me 2 weeks ago. Did your pedal start
sticking to the ground?? or only feel like it had bout a inch of shifting room,
if so, then it is your slave cylinder, and since u still have fluid, ur master
cylinder is still good..but ur main problem is your clutch, bet almost anything
when u get ur clutch out, its going to be smoked. lol..id go with that funny
guys opinion and go with center force or clutch master, i went with the center
force myself...
------------------------------
Alright guys im still having the problem with my ECI fuse blowing, i just
wrote a email titled "Fuse Blowing" if you want to read the problem, but this
email is to ask if any one knows what ECI even stands for, some people say
Emissions, other say Electric, Enigne, Computer..a bunch of crap, so can someone
please help
Thanks
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 00:15:24 -0600
From: "Ioan Raicu" <
iraicu@cs.wayne.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: clutch problems
So the pedal does come back up 100%, but it is much lighter then it
was
before, and it only engages when it is close to the top (almost letting
go
of the clutch completely), instead of engaging close to the floor, the
way
it used to be. So is the consensus that it would be the clutch
slave
cylinder? I should insist on whoever diagnoses the car to
thoroughly check
the master / slave cylinders, right?
John Raicu
94
Yellow TT
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 10:56:18 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: ECI Fuse
ECI? That abbreviation is not in the Haynes Auto Ref Man nor the SAE
Dictionary of Auto Eng. "ECM" or "ECU" can refer to our engine (or electronic)
control module (or unit) - fuse #19 in the multipurpose fuse (by driver's left
leg).
Maybe you better just tell us what what fuse box (there are several) and
what fuse number (diagrams are in the service manual).
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 09:25:37 -0500
From: Joseph Spainhour <
spainhou@bellsouth.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: ECI Fuse
Wouldn't that be Electronically Controlled Injectors. I have seen a few
mitsubishi cars with ECI stamped on the plenum. I might have the
translation wrong, but it should be part of the fuel system.
Joseph
93 3KGT VR-4
------------------------------
Having replaced every speaker, HU, and added a subwoofer and Amp (many
thanks to Eric Petterson), I would just
like to warn anybody about dropping
the glove box. I dropped it too far and broke one of the little
plastic
hinges ($1) on the back of the glove box. My request from Satan
(Middle East)got this reply - according to
Japan the hinge is not available
separately, you must purchase a new glove box!!!!!!.
So unless anybody on the
list knows better, I am about to buy a very small block of wood and make my own.
To
me it is like having a faulty spark plug and them selling you an
engine.
Andy Spargo
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 08:31:20 -0600
From:
sdewitt@stx.rr.comSubject: Team3S:
Guages and Speedometer not working
I was driving my 91 RT TT and suddenly the guages pooped out on me. Non of
the guages work in addition to the Tach and speedo. Has anyone experienced the
same problem? Not having a wiring diagram or knowing where all of the fuse boxes
are, could this problem be something as simple as a fuse or single ground
wire?
Thanks,
Scott
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 06:42:48 -0800
From: "Guy, Michael (CS)" <
michael.guy@ngc.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Glove box
There is a guy on 3si who is parting out 9 or 10 3s's that he has at
his
Garage. I can give you his e-mail addy, put you'd have to hit 3si to
see
what parts are going. He may have a glovebox that he might sell ya cheap
if
your interested.
Mike Guy
92 Stealth SOHC
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 11:11:22 -0500
From: Mark Frouhar <
mfrouhar@bear.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Brake Disaster
I'm a little confused Dan. Not sure what you are calling a pad and a
shoe.
Are you saying the metal backing plate with the rivets has
disappeared? Or
that there is no friction material left and you're done
to the metal backing
plate?
How do the other pads look, are they all fairly worn out? Brake pad
life
is very much related to your driving style, assuming there are no
brake
system malfunctions for the moment. 18 months is not unreasonable
if the
car is being driven hard. I'd be very happy if I got 12 months
out of my
front pads, but then again every road looks like a road course to
me.
Changing pads in our cars is really easy, it's very hard to screw it
up.
I would look at the other pads to see if they're worn out as well.
If it's
just the driver side that's extremely worn out, you might try and
compress
all the pistons to see if any of them are sticking. I always
find that the
outer driver side pad wears out the fastest.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 11:27:39 -0700
From: norman <
normanross@shaw.ca>
Subject: Team3S:
Need suggestions on NOS
I have a 91 dodge stealth R/T NA that is a AUTO i am thinking of useing
NOS
for a faster launch off the line can any let me if that will help
and will
NOS wrick my car .All so dose any one know if thare is a programmer
for the
91s so i can change timeing and things like that to get more
HP
Thanks NORM
------------------------------
Fuel system ECI-MULTI (electrically controlled gasoline injection)
Cheers
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 14:03:27 -0500 (EST)
From: Michael Baldwin <
mbaldwin@alumni.tufts.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Alignment - front crossmember question
First of, I would like to recommend Mike at San Rafael Mitsubishi
for
getting me a great deal on lower control arms.
Update on the car: The front crossmember is damaged and the alignment
is
still out of spec by 1 or 2 degrees. The guys down at Custom Alignment
are
saying it will not cause premature tire wear, just that the car will
track
to the right a little. Does that sound right? Any long term
negative
effect of driving like this? I've just put almost 3k into the car
and
don't want to spend the extra 899 on repairs just yet.
new tires: $600
new rims: $900
new control arms:
$501.48
installation of control arms and alignment: $684
misc: $a few
hundred
Mike
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 14:14:25 -0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Alignment - front crossmember question
A great deal? That deal seems unbelievable. Conicelli lists
them for $365 a piece.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 14:25:49 -0500
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: Alignment - front crossmember question
The shop probably succeeded in setting your camber, but if you have
a
different caster on the left and right sides, then the car will pull to
one
side. It is just a pull on the steering wheel and if it is not
annoying
then there is no harm in it. No increased tire wear.
Philip
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 11:30:08 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: clutch problems
Hi John,
If you haven't lost any clutch fluid and you don't see
any fluid leaking from the master or slave cylinders, then they probably aren't
the problem. If the master cylinder leaks, it will generally run down the
*inside* of the firewall near the clutch pedal itself. If the slave
cylinder leaks, it will generally be visible on the top of the transaxle
housing. The slave cylinder is pretty much directly below the y-pipe that
attaches to the throttle body - it's bolted directly to the transaxle
housing.
Have you heard any weird noises from your clutch/tranny
recently? From your description, it sounds like the clutch is fully
engaged (flywheel driving tranny input shaft), and that even though the clutch
pedal has some pressure, it's not disengaging the clutch when you press the
pedal. If it were disengaging the clutch, then you'd be able to shift
gears with the engine running. I wonder if something failed on your
pressure plate or your throw-out bearing is MIA. I would expect there to
be weird noises in those cases, though.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 19:45:49 -0000
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Glove box
Or having a faulty synchro and replacing the transmission. At least
they're
consistent!
- - --
Jim Matthews - Yorkshire, England, UK
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 19:50:58 -0000
From: Kopsick Michael J Contr
WRALC/LTET <
Michael.Kopsick@robins.af.mil>
Subject:
Team3S: Door Locks Gone Crazy!
Anybody know why when i hit my electric door locks the things go
nuts..on
and off on and off...i have to grab the handle very quickly to open
it,
anybody know why?
------------------------------
I used to have situation (a pontiac) where the lock mechanism became a bit
sticky with age. When the lock (key entry hole) was not perfectly vertical, it
would cause the electric door locks to cycle off/on. I would just insert
the key and line up the lock to stop it. This is not exactly as you
describe but maybe related?
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 14:15:16 -0600
From: "Ioan Raicu" <
iraicu@cs.wayne.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: clutch problems
So, assuming it is the throwout barings, which I replaced 1 1/2 years
ago
and 15K miles, to fix them, they have to take out the old clutch to
replace
the throw out barings, correct? Is there any chance that the
clutch,
pressure plate, and flywheel are still OK, or when the throw out
barings go
bad, they take down everything with them...
Just to clarify, I did not loose any fluid from the clutch reservoir.
The
clutch does dissengage, but not enough to put it in gear while the car
is
running. For example, if I place it in 1st gear (with the car off),
then I
start driving and come to a stop sign, I can press the clutch in
(without
actually taking the car out of gear), and the car will come to a
complete
stop without illing the engine. I can afterwards let out the
clutch and the
car starts moving normally. However, if I take the car
out of gear, it will
not let me put it back in until I shut off the
engine.
Once I take it to the mechanic, I will let everyone know what was the
actual
problem was so others can diagnose similar symptoms in the
future.
Thanks for the overwhelming response from everyone!
John Raicu
94 Yellow TT
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 12:30:35 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: clutch problems
Hi John,
Thanks for the increased detail on your clutch issues -
that helps. It sounds like when you push the clutch pedal in all the way,
it's only partially disengaging the clutch. What that means is that the
clutch disc is not pressing on the flywheel with full pressure, but it's still
dragging somewhat. Similar to lightly applying the brakes or the parking
brake - the car will still roll, but it will have increased resistance. It
sounds like your starter is able to overcome this resistance and start the
engine, and that the dragging force on the flywheel is not enough to stall the
engine when the wheels are kept from moving with the brakes. This also is
consistent with your inability to shift into different gears with the engine
running.
It *could* be as simple as an improperly adjusted clutch
pedal, but that doesn't seem too likely. Check the simple stuff first,
just to be sure :-) I suppose it could also be that your slave cylinder is
not completely attached to the transaxle (one of the bolts came loose?), and you
can check this by a visual inspection. If your pedal is ok, and the slave
cylinder is properly mounted and aligned, then it's probably something internal
to the clutch. If your throwout bearing was damaged/missing, you would
either have obvious noises coming from the clutch area or your clutch would
flat-out not work at all. I doubt that's the entire problem, even if the
TOB is bad.
You can test if your clutch is dragging by putting
the car on a level surface, starting the car, pushing the clutch in all the way,
releasing the brakes, and watching for the car to roll forward. The car
should not move forward at all on a level surface with the clutch pedal on the
floor. If it does, then your clutch is not fully disengaging. That's
what I'd investigate first.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 17:55:24 -0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt D" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: clutch problems
Very likely it is FOD, debris, in between the disc and pres. plate.
Probably pieces of your friction disc disintegrating (more likely)
but
could be
spring or other metal parts (less likely). Disengagement is
enough to
not move the car,
but dragging and lopsided enough to prevent
engaging gears.
Better plan on a new clutch vs just a throw out.
If you're very lucky,
you may be able to reuse the pres. plate.
Kurt
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#368
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