Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth  Saturday, February 7 2004  Volume 02 : Number 365
Date: Fri, 06 Feb 2004 10:50:32 -0800
From: Mike Gerhard <>
Subject: Team3S: Engine in - Boost question
Hurrah! My engine swap is complete. I fired it up yesterday. Gone is the
knocking due to the spun rod bearing.
I have yet to take it for a full blown spin. I ran it a little in the
garage and driveway and then drove it around the block. Today I reinstated
the insurance so I will be able to take for a highway test.
I noticed that the stock boost gage would only rise to about 0 (from the
negative peg point) when I gave it some gas. Having yet to really get on
it, I'm still thinking I would be seeing some positive boost. I'm wondering
if anyone has some comments on what I might be expecting, and if indeed
it's registering low/no boost, I'm hoping for some diagnostic tips.
If you are replying after 2pm (PST), please email me
at as I will be away from this email address until
Thanks in advance. I'm hoping all is well and I just need to give it a good
road test.
- --------------------------------------------------------------
Mike Gerhard           1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4  Pearl White
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Date: Fri, 06 Feb 2004 11:10:26 -0800
From: Gizmo <>
Subject: Team3S: Don't let them fool you Rich
We have cows on the west (left) coast too! Or is California cheese made
from something else?
Apparently  some people don't get out much either!
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Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2004 11:12:24 -0800 (PST)
From: Andrew Wert <>
Subject: Team3S: I need a car!!!!
I just crashed my car.  The past summer i dumped about
 $6000 into my engine.  Here's my question.  I am
looking for a car that has,  or had, a 1st Gen. DOHC
non-turbo engine in it and is blown or isn't worth
fixing.  I am going to keep my engine and put it into
the one the buy.  Basically i need a car that has a
decent body, i dont care about the condition of the
tranny and engine. 
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Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2004 20:38:42 -0500
From: "Dan Labonte" <>
Subject: SRS Light (was Re: Team3S: Don't let them fool you Rich)
In WI we use to get out to go cow tipping on weekend, LOL.
I think your left coaster's cheese is made from goats milk.
Dan Labonte
Ok some car stuff so Bob doesn't get mad at me.
A number of people on this list report the SRS light coming on and not being able to reset it without a $85 stealer visit.  The reported turn the key 10 times only works on 1st gens.  I set the SRS light on my 94 when I pulled a fuse (#18) in the junction box one time and its been on since until a few weeks ago.  Apparently when I was chasing down an electrical short I was able to reset it.  One of two things possibly reset it: Pulling a fuse from the engine bay or disconnecting a harness from the junction box.  I am guessing it was at the junction box, possibly the main A connector (C-68). Or else my other thought is that the SRS has a small capacitor type storage battery internal and I discharged and reset it by removing the battery and then shorting across the + and - terminals.
I am not going to reset my SRS to test these theories, but if someone on the list has theirs set email me and we can try a few of these and finally have a way to reset this thing without a MUT.
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Date: Fri, 06 Feb 2004 23:49:20 -0500
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <>
Subject: Re: Team3S: TT Conversion Brake Upgrade for the NA Platform
I thought Dave Creel (Electronic Auto) was on this list, so that he could
explain his product better, but apparently he is not here. Well, my opinion
is not exactly an unbiased one, however since the question was addressed to
me I will try to be objective.
 From the description I can tell that the two brackets that are being sold
allow to use 2nd gen TT/VR4 rotors and calipers on an NA car. While, if
used in a proper application, it can be a good upgrade, it may or may not
improve the overall brake performance if used "as is". More brake torque in
the front usually does not bring batter performance. A lot of explaining
needs to be provided, else an average Joe who buys these brackets will not
get the expected results.
Dave needs to explain how his brackets affect braking distances, car
handling, car stability, etc. It would be good if he spends $250 on a
G-Tech and at least records braking distances before and after. Without
such a "user's guide", this product will remain a set of two 15-mm thick
aluminum brackets with four holes.
I always try to educate people the best I can. Only an educated car
enthusiast would forego big name brake kits and overly simple solutions in
favor of my products. Feel free to ask technical questions and I will
provide technical answers. A good introduction that everyone should be
familiar with, just like our Team3S FAQ section, is the StopTech's FAQ section: While some info there may sound like a sales pitch, it is still one of the
few sites that goes beyond product description and explains the effects of
the design decisions on brake performance. The FAQ section is not too long,
and is a must read for everyone who plans to commit to spending money on
brake upgrades.
P.S. And if someone managed to miss my earlier announcements, I do sell a
competing NA brake upgrade:
(subtract $200 for intro pricing), and
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Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2004 8:26:51 +0000
From: <>
Subject: Team3S: Fuse Blowing
Hey guys haopefully someone can help me on this...every thing on my 94 stealth R/T was running great, then the clutch went out and so we changed it...havent drove it yet because everytime we turn the key on my ECI fuse blows up..any one know anything bout this or wat the ECI even is.. Thanks Someone please help
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Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2004 08:56:11 -0000
From: "Jim Matthews" <>
Subject: Team3S: 94/95 hybrid datalogging with knock!!!
All of the hype is true, we have finally gotten them to work, and the cables should be here soon. These dataloggers CAN LOG KNOCK.
1994-95 3000GT/Stealth (All models, including N/A) Dataloggers Fully molded cables Software (Getting pictures of it up on the website) Log over 22 Parameters
140+ Samples/Second
They can log KNOCK
as well as all of the other parameters you are used to logging on the 91-93 cars Free upgrades for new releases Alarms for when sensors go over/under certain values (you set them) Solenoid and sensor tests Check engine light code reader, and resetter
Price: $250, plus $5 Shipping anywhere in US (Shipping is estimate right
Compatible Palm Models.....PALMS ONLY AT THIS POINT (still looking into sony's, but definitely no visors) Palms m100, m105, m120, m125, m130, m500, m505, m515 will all work. Also....., Anything on this page (
EZ, VZ Chip & Palm OS 3.11 and greater
So basically almost every palm built except the new tungstens, and the really old palms.
I would REALLY recommend the m500 series because they have this LED at the top of the palm I am going to try and implement for warnings. and they have louder speakers.
Sign up on the list below to get in line. You will be PM'd when these go on sale, and the website will be updated as well:
- - --
Jim Matthews - Yorkshire, England
       *** Team3S, 3SI #0030, GTOUK #155 ***
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
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Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2004 10:32:26 -0600
From: "xwing" <>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 94/95 hybrid datalogging with knock!!!
Congratulations, Jim and designers!
Wow, that is great.  I almost wish I still had the stock 94 ECU to buy and use this datalogger, it has been SUCH a long time hoping somebody would be able to do it! If you have a 94-95 with stock ECU, this sure sounds like a great thing to buy! Jack T.
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Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2004 17:14:09 -0000
From: "Jim Matthews" <>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 94/95 hybrid datalogging with knock!!!
Sorry if my note was confusing; I take no credit for this development and was merely passing along the good news!!
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Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2004 09:41:39 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <>
Subject: Team3S: Rear Motor Mount Replacement
Ok, so I've looked through the archives and didn't really find a detailed answer...
It seems a few people have managed to change out the rear motor mount without removing the engine, and I'm curious how they did it. I can get the passenger's side bracket bolts and the center through-bolt, but I don't see how to get at the 2 bracket bolts on the driver's side.
The shop manual says to remove the rear oxygen sensor housing, which from what I hear, is a large PITA. I'd like to avoid doing this if possible.
***  For anyone who's done it, exactly how do you get a wrench or socket on the driver's side bolts to remove the motor mount with the engine in the car?  ***
For those who are curious, my car has about 75k miles on it and is in excellent overall condition. I don't drag race, and I don't think the previous owners did, either. ALL of my motor mounts were shot. I'll eventually have pictures up, but the mounts were both cracked thoroughly and leaking fluid. The pin in front roll stopper was almost completely separated from the mount, and I know the rear is really bad, even without pulling it yet, from the amount of movement when the front roll stopper was disconnected during replacement.
Oh, and a tip to pass on:  for the front roll stopper, if you remove the radiator assembly (took me all of 10 minutes), it makes things infinitely easier.
- --Erik
'95 VR-4
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Date: Sat, 07 Feb 2004 12:43:28 -0600
From: "" <>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rear Motor Mount Replacement
You need very flexible sockets and wrenches, and infinite patience. We did not take out the oxygen sensor. OTOH, it's hard to figure out what we did take out, because we were also removing the transmission at the time. So we had suspension members, tranny, transfer case, exhaust and everything else off the car. Even so, it was a very difficult problem.
Mike the Mechanic did mine. It took him about 30 min on those last two bolts, but he has some of the weirdest looking tools, and he is able to work upside down and backwards. I think his hands and fingers are triple-jointed, too, because he was able to get them in there. Of all the Stealth Boys working on the car at the time, he was the only one who knew how to get the mount off.
Rich/slow old poop.
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Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2004 20:19:07 +0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rear Motor Mount Replacement
In my time I had the rear turbo and exhaust manifold out ... it was very easy then from below. I think the only chance to get to the bolts is from underneath after removign the y-pipe and rear precat housing. But again, it depends on the size of the comrpessor wheel housing. No chance with my 368.
Roger G.
93 & 96 3000GT TT
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2 #365