My wife's 94 Stealth RT/TT has a bad ABS modulator. and I've been casually looking for a replacement. The stock part number is MB668392, and goes for over $2000 at the dealer, so that is not an option (especially since the brakes work fine without ABS). I have come across a practically new module out of a 98 VR4 for cheap, but the part number is different (MR249541) and it goes for about $1000 less from the dealer. Does anybody know if it is interchangeable with the older ABS system? If not, I'll just get one out of an older 3S car in the spring.

Date: Tue, 03 Feb 2004 16:50:43 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Introduction and GTO Kangarooing

The 3-way valve you show is on the hose that goes to the BPV. A leak there is a simple leak in the intake system (the hose connects the BPV to the plenum via the pipe on top of the TB). Boost *control* is not affected much. Yes, the pressure in the plenum will be reduced by some amount so that and any other leaks should be fixed. There is a chance the BPV is open alot and so keeping boost low, but that does not seem to be your problem.

Almost always, the hose used to direct pressure to the actuators is connected to the Y-pipe. If there is no aftermarket BC (manual or electronic) on the car then you need to inspect the hoses connecting the Y-pipe to the actuators (hopefully they also connect to a BC, factory or otherwise).

I don't see how plugging the "melted" hose that leaks will get boost control "back to normal". If the boost is getting very high, there is a good chance no pressure is routed to the actuators and so there is no boost control and the wastegates stay closed, that is, they would never open to regulate (reduce) boost.

Do NOT install a BC on the junction you show. In fact, the BPV hose should be a direct line from the BPV to the plenum with no other devices attached.

1) inspect all vac/pressure hoses for proper routing.
2) pressure test the intake. http://www.stealth316.com/2-pressuretester.htm

I have a used AVC-R if someone wants it. I bought it for $200 from a friend selling his '92 TT (rod knock). I never installed it. There is nothing wrong with it that I know of. $200 US + shipping. Contact me direct by email.

Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2004 17:33:11 -0000
From: "Alex Judd" <ajudd@enpocket.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Introduction and GTO Kangarooing

Secondly I'm new to turbos and this technology of cars (my other car's a 356!) so bear with me if I get it wrong on the way (and I really have read as much of the Team3s site as I can before asking this)

|A leak there is a simple leak in the intake system (the hose connects
|the BPV to the plenum via the pipe on top of the TB). Boost *control*
|is not affected much. Yes, the pressure in the plenum will be reduced by some amount so that and any other leaks should be fixed. There is a
|chance the BPV is open alot and so keeping boost low, but that does not seem to be your problem.
|*Boost control* is established by regulating the pressure reaching the wastegate actuators.

Right, so that would be that because as we produce more power we want to change the actuators for the waste control? Is that the same Y that isn't currently connected (so the waste gates would never open)...?

|If there is no aftermarket BC (manual or electronic) on the car then
|you need to inspect the hoses connecting the Y-pipe to the actuators
|(hopefully they also connect to a BC, factory or otherwise).

There is (I am led to understand from one of the pictures) the standard BC at the back of the engine of the car. You can see it in this picture I think http://ajudd.kgbinternet.com/gto/engine_view1.jpg . To be honest I haven't follow the pipes to know where it is connected (if it is) and I haven't got a stock picture of an engine to currently compare it with (though I've been squinting at the ones on http://www.geocities.com/mitsubishi_3000_gto_twinturbo/ !)

|If the boost is getting very high, there is a good chance no pressure
|is routed to the actuators and so there is no boost control and the
|wastegates stay closed, that is, they would never open to regulate (reduce) boost.

Yes, if my understanding above understands what you're saying then if we've got no connection to the actuators that would do that

|Do NOT install a BC on the junction you show. In fact, the BPV hose
|should be a direct line from the BPV to the plenum with no other
|devices |attached.

Couldn't find the word 'plenum' on the Team3S site however I did here http://www.vr4stealth.com/plenum_removal_plugs_injectors.htm and so the boost would run off of the vacuum lines on the plenum. OK.

|1) inspect all vac/pressure hoses for proper routing.
|2) pressure test the intake.
|http://www.stealth316.com/2-pressuretester.htm

|I have a used AVC-R if someone wants it. I bought it for $200 from a
|friend selling his '92 TT (rod knock). I never installed it. There is
||nothing wrong with it that I know of. $200 US + shipping. Contact me
|direct by email.

Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2004 13:18:58 -0600
From: "William J. Crabtree" <wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject: Team3S: Real time oil analysis

I was talking to a guy this last weekend about the company he works for (www.lubrizol.com). He works as a design engineer for them(primarily for the puriNOx project, which suspends water in diesel fuel for cleaner emissions).

One of the products they are currently in the developmental stage on is a sensor that would be placed in a crankcase to give you constant feedback on your oil's condition. He said that it's main target market will initially be industrial. It's likely that the application would be in motors that run pumps for pipelines, sumps etc.(motors that run 24/7 and can't afford downtime). He said that eventually such a thing would likely be available in passenger cars, but not for a while.

Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2004 00:04:39 -0600
From: "Dan Hyde" <danielhyde@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Saner Rear Sway bar doesn't fit

Once you DO get that ornery rear Saner installed and assuming you find very narrow (~1mm) clearance between the axle flange bolts and sway bar link pin bolt head (as I have), You *might* also experience an alarming "clunk clunk clunk" sound during hard cornering.

I'm referring to conditions that will unload/extend a rear shock to it's full length. When that occurs, the geometry change brings those bolt heads into slight contact with one another. Suspension compression has an opposite effect - increasing clearance in that area slightly.

I didn't figure this out for quite awhile and only realized when I recently changed from stock suspension to Tein Flex. The Tein's are a shorter rear shock (~ 1-1.5" going by memory) and therefore, one cannot hyper extend these units into the impact zone.

There are other VR4 owners running the Saner's that never posted mention of this issue so it may very well be unique to me. Although - I think Eric Gross also mentioned ticking sounds sometime awhile back and that caused me to look more carefully while I was doing my Tein installs. The flange bolt heads did show minor scuffing damage. A different (slightly thinner) spacer between link pin bolt head and link pin bushing would also cure this clearance issue if you find it.

Oh, and one other thing of note that may be useful for fitment. When I had the Saner installed (Mitsu dealer did the install but I get to hang out and watch/work with them at will- nice of em), we had to push that Saner as far forward toward the front of the car as possible *before* wrenching the bolts tight. (one person leveraging very heavily on the pry bar, while another does the wrench work)

Seems like a lots of pain but great gain though. Other than the Tein's, it was the most significantly beneficial handling mod for the dollar that I've done - it's a whole different car really. I also run the front sway as well (installed at same time) so don't have experience to share running only the rear unit.

Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2004 23:27:40 -0700
From: "Donald Ashby" <dashbyiii@mho.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Introduction and GTO Kangarooing

>> The cut pipe on the T junction on the dump valve piping is from where
>> a boost controller was removed from the car. This was cut out without
>> reclosing the pipe it was controlling and thus air is leaking out of
>> the hose (at some random control).

The 3-way valve you show is on the hose that goes to the BPV. A leak there is a simple leak in the intake system (the hose connects the BPV to the plenum via the pipe on top of the TB). Boost
*control* is not affected much. Yes, the pressure in the plenum will be reduced by some amount so that and any other leaks should be fixed. There is a chance the BPV is open alot and so keeping boost low, but that does not seem to be your problem.

Actually, this may be the whoosing noise he is hearing, if the BOV isn't getting any pressure in that line then it will pop open as soon as there is enough boost to blow the diaphragm open, on dsm bov's thats about 6 psi. But that wouldn't account for why his car feels faster at that point... Regardless you should fix the leaking line.

Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2004 00:16:39 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: Team3S: Fuel Trim Info (could be useful to you!)

These values are very similar to my values before removing the fuel pump hotwire and reinstalling the resistor, which tells me something: that wasn't the problem!

I'm lucky to have the 93 model which has up to 40% fuel trim compensation. Theoretically, it maybe be possible to run my 450cc injectors without my S-AFC... but that's a side point that I'll bring up in a later thread. I have info for those of you that have a similar problem to mine (low fuel trim is too high, and mid+high seem too low).

1) O2 sensor heater isn't working. More info can be seen at http://www.pocketlogger.com/index.php?pid=1gtech_trims -- read "Fact 4"

2) A moderate leak in your intake system. Do you have old intercoolers? Old piping? Loose hose clamps? Clutch booster check valve hose installed backwards? These are all possible causes for an intake leak. An intake leak will cause you to run lean at idle (MAS not seeing all the air that is actually entering) and it will run rich under boost (MAS metered air is leaking somewhere).

So be sure to check both of the above items before you "adjust the AFC and call it a day." There's no good reason for such a large difference (almost
60%) between your low and mid fuel trims like I have! I will investigate my particular condition (I think my problem is item #2) and I will report back to the list. If you seem to have a similar problem, be sure to investigate it even if it isn't a 60% difference like my case. If you can't datalog, try to borrow one. I wouldn't know anything about my problem if I didn't have mine.

Remember that 92 and earlier models have only 20% ECU fuel adjustment, so you know that you have a problem if your trim is pegged at 80% or 120%. _Do not_ ignore this issue, because bad O2 sensor readings can and will kill your catalytic converters due to excess HC, and intake leaks = unfiltered air which is very bad in the long term. Item #1 will burn a hole in your wallet when you go to buy a new catalytic converter and/or precats. Item #2 is a slow, quiet engine killer which will leave you wondering why your 3S buddies are racking up tens of thousands of miles on their engines while you're already spending money on a rebuild. Enough said.

Date: Wed, 04 Feb 2004 11:26:07 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Fuel Trim Info (could be useful to you!)

First, you have made the assumption that the fuel trim reports the percentage that the ECU is changing the fuel injector activation time (amount of fuel injected). We don't know that for sure. After following the DSM-ECU group discussions, it is clear to me the ECU can work in mysterious ways. Also, the units reported by dataloggers (and their programmers) can be their creations. "Units" are not recorded or reported by the ECU. And there is no documentation by Mitsu regarding datalogging or the programming of their DSM or 3S ECUs.

Regardless, even if "-80%" fuel trim actually means 80% less fuel, and so would suggesting 450s would work (0.8 x 450 = 360), this is only for closed loop fuel injection control. During open loop control, such as during heavy load cruising or WOT engine operation, the ECU (1991-1993) uses maps to determine the amount of fuel to inject. Using 450s would result in a too-rich A/F (by 25%). Fuel trims do not affect open-loop operation on OBDI 3S models ('91-'93).

All my 3 trims are usually pegged at -80, indicating the ECU is pulling fuel because I have the mixture set too rich. My O2 sensors are new and there are no intake leaks. I know the mixture is rich. However, the car passes emissions tests (and failed when I leaned the mixture with my ARC2). I am still working on adjustments to return the trims to back near 100%.

Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2004 11:38:25 -0500 (EST)
From: Michael Baldwin <mbaldwin@alumni.tufts.edu>
Subject: Team3S: How much to sell 18" chromies for?

Hi, I'm trying to sell the old wheels off of my car and was wondering if anyone could recommend a good asking price for them. I know they sell around $800 from the dealership and $450 refurbished, so I was asking $900 for the lot / 800 for the two good ones and $150 for the two damaged ones without much response.

The quality of the rims are as follows (all 4 hold air):
1 - mint condition
2 - good condition, some small scrapes on the face
3&4 - small cracks in them