Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Saturday, January 31 2004 Volume
02 : Number 359
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Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 16:47:42 -0500
Subject: RE: Team3S: need help
Auto or Manual ?
What's slow mean?
Did car have problems before rebuild?
Kurt
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Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 14:03:45 -0800
Subject: RE: Team3S: need help
> This engine has only one butterfly - the throttle body. You
> can pull your Y-pipe off and see it move.
Actually, the DOHC NA engines have a butterfly valve in each intake runner
in the plenum. They are all on the same shaft and are controlled by the
VIC motor. They are closed at low RPM to make the intake runners longer
and they open at higher RPM to shorten the runners.
- --Erik
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Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 15:59:00 -0600 (CST)
Subject: RE: Team3S: need help
Gotta photo of that? Sounds neat.
Others use the flaps to restrict volume of the intake which also makes
the
intake air a higher velocity.
- ---
"If it's in stock, we have it!"
Team3S/3Si.org Vendor approved brake discounter.
NASA USTCC brake vendor and lead Pro-7 Sponsor.
New OEM parts for Toyota shipped worldwide.
"If its in stock, we have it!"
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Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 17:20:33 -0500
Subject: RE: Team3S: need help
Anyone know why the turbo models don't have a similar setup?
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Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 14:19:56 -0800
Subject: RE: Team3S: need help
> Gotta photo of that? Sounds neat.
>
> Others use the flaps to restrict volume of the intake which
> also makes the intake air a higher velocity.
The closest thing I have is:
You can see the VIC motor in one of the pictures and then you can see the
outer structure of the plenum.
When closed, the butterflies cause the intake air to enter the TB, move
toward the REAR of the engine bay (counter-clockwise around the rear of the
plenum), and then loop back up before going down in-between the banks.
When closed, the butterflies allow intake air to enter the TB, and then make an
immediate right-hand turn into the intake runners.
Perhaps someone has a picture of a cut-away or something? It is kinda
neat to look at if you have a plenum handy
- --Erik
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Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 16:16:59 -0600 (CST)
Subject: RE: Team3S: need help
because flow rates areny as important as youre shoving the air
in..not
depending on velocity and efficiency.
- ---
"If it's in stock, we have it!"
Team3S/3Si.org Vendor approved brake discounter.
NASA USTCC brake vendor and lead Pro-7 Sponsor.
New OEM parts for Toyota shipped worldwide.
"If its in stock, we have it!"
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Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 17:43:40 -0500
Subject: Team3S: White Face for my gauges
Does anyone know where I can buy some white face gauge templates for
my '94
Stealth R/T? I found a site that I can print copies off and cut them
out,
but prefer professionally made ones, if someone does them
(Speedo,Tach,
and Fuel)
Dan
Flint, Mi
'94 red R/T.
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Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 17:32:58 -0500
Subject: RE: Team3S: White Face for my gauges
Dan, look on E-Bay. I got mine off E-Bay and they're excellent.
The gauge faces that I bought have the EXACT same fonts, sizes, etc. as the
stockers. Plus, they are indiglo, and you can change the faces without
having to take off the needles! They're always for sale, and will run you
around $40. Watch when you buy, though, because there are two different
kinds--ones that go to 160 MPH for the NA, and those that go to 180 for the
turbos.
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Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 15:38:06 -0700
Subject: Team3S: help
The car is a AUTO N/T I did the rebild because i spun abearing
+ i needed
faster car i was get my**** but kicked to mush i street race lots ineed
it
fast off the line it well not take off good off the line a you could
faster
me off the lineso for ever thing that was done i should be faster of
the
line i am at 305 hp right now Thanks Norman
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Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 16:41:32 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: Team3S: help
305Hp on an N/A 3L auto.
Care to share the dyno graph, that'd be interesting to see how it
peaks
out.
On Fri, 30 Jan 2004, norman wrote:
>
> The car is a AUTO N/T I did the rebild because i spun
abearing + i needed
> faster car i was get my**** but kicked to mush i street race lots
ineed it
> fast off the line it well not take off good off the line a you could
faster
> me off the lineso for ever thing that was done i should be faster of
the
> line i am at 305 hp right now Thanks Norman
>
>
>
>
- ---
"If it's in stock, we have it!"
Team3S/3Si.org Vendor approved brake discounter.
NASA USTCC brake vendor and lead Pro-7 Sponsor.
New OEM parts for Toyota shipped worldwide.
"If its in stock, we have it!"
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 15:41:18 -0800
Subject: Team3S: Re: Factory radio
Ted,
Get something a bit better than the factory setup. A good MP3 player
will do wonders to your want of sound. If someone could help you out
with the 1 din facia and the pocket to go underneath (Stock Mitsu parts)
then you could have a factory looking installation.
Question, how does your cruise control work without a factory radio?
Keith/Gizmo
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Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 18:56:03 -0500
Subject: RE: Team3S: help
Got some Gtech or qtr mile and 60 foot times?
(what does slow mean?)
I would think you could get under 2.0 secs for 60 foot with 305 hp on
NT.
I think I recall 2.2-2.3 on mine with maybe 240 hp.
Are you spinning tires too much, or just don't seem to have the 305
hp
you think you have?
Kurt
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Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 18:08:51 -0600
Subject: Team3S: Pulling turbos
We'll be dismounting the stock turbos tomorrow morning. It's only
supposed
to be 10 below, but we have a propane heater in the garage to keep
the
Stealth Boys warm.
The engine is out, and I've been spraying every nut and bolt around
the
turbos with PB Blaster (boy, does that stink up the garage!), and
somebody
is bringing a torch just in case.
Any guidelines on removing turbos? I already wrung one bolt off
removing
the turbo shields, so I can envision lots of problems.
Wow, do people REALLY change turbos with the engine in the car? I
can't
imagine how they do it, especially the rear one. John C suggested that
when
we put the shield back on the rear turbo, we leave off a mounting bolt
--
the one that's the hardest to remove with the engine in the car. Which
one
is that? I'll be sure to leave it off.
Rich/slow old poop/engineless and soon to be turboless
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Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 17:48:27 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
Subject: Re: Team3S: White Face for my gauges
There is a guy here in Colorado that has a used set for $55.00
Interested ?
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Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 18:49:14 -0700
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Factory radio
CC doesn't get touched at all when doing a stereo swap. Only the
vertical
trim piece around the radio comes off.
- -Erik
'94 R/T
- ----- Original Message -----
> Question, how does your cruise control work without a factory
radio?
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Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 21:20:21 -0500
Subject: Team3S: white face gauges
I just won an auctin on E-Bay for White Face Gauges that reverse light
up
either blue or green. Does anyone
know if this is hard to wire up, and how much trouble did you have
getting
the miliage reset stem out?
Dan
Flint, Mi
'94 red R/T
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Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 20:19:20 -0600
Subject: RE: Team3S: need help
Actually, the non-turbo motors have a secondary set of butterflies
inside the intake plenum...
- -Cody
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Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 21:56:20 -0500
Subject: Re: Team3S: Engine / transmission fluids
Mike - Good idea to get the fluids correct and keep up with routine
maintenance on the
replacement engine. I forget where you live but it is winter for most
of the US and
even the warm places down South and out West are dipping into the 40s or
perhaps a tad
colder on cold nights. Remember that water freezes at 32 F (O C) so
if you have ANY
bit of cold weather in your area then don't run just straight water + water
wetter in
your car but keep some coolant in there. I run coolant in the winter
(in Pittsburgh)
and water + water wetter in the summer. I didn't want someone up in
the U.P. putting
water and some additive in their car and having it freeze solid, that's
all.
I contacted Amsoil on what fluids to be used in the gearboxes and, as I
recall, two of
them were the same fluid and something different in the third (like GL-4 in
two and
GL-5 in one or something). I can dig that up but many fluid places
(Mobil's site,
Pennzoil maybe, etc.) will be able to indicate what fluid goes in what
gearbox. The
RedLine is what I used first and when it was changed out they indicated it
still had
color. I don't know if that is indicative of a GL-4 material or
something but some
fluids are colored which makes it easier to determine its quality when
checking
(instead of having fluid that starts light brown and turns brown/black and
easier to
see if it goes from red to dark brown).
Coolant type depends on your style. I've even seen a car with purple
coolant initially
that changed to a milky color - neat. Anyway, ethylene glycol (the
sweet-tasting
stuff) is common but propylene glycol is supposedly "not as good tasting so
kids and
pets won't consume it as easily." Whatever. Read about the
specs on the specific
coolant you choose.
Just keep tabs on stuff. Typical severe service recommendations are oil
changes every
3,000 miles regardless of the type (synthetic or not) and coolant flushes
every 2 years
(non-DexCool stuff), and tire rotations every 5k-8k. YMMV.
- --Flash!
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Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 21:30:29 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Team3S:
I see a bunch of stealths/3000GT's (5 total!!!) have signed up for the
Speedseeker
to go "halfies" with me? I will run either day, but prefer
Sunday.
J.A. Wieman
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Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 23:05:22 -0500
Subject: RE: Team3S: White Face for my gauges
You can get brandy new ones on E-bay right now for around $20.
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Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 23:09:58 -0500
Subject: RE: Team3S: white face gauges
They are actually pretty easy to wire up. I hooked mine up to the
dash light rheostat, and they work perfectly. You just need to be careful
when running the "flat" wires through the gauge housing that you don't pinch
them the wrong way, or they'll break. You should remove the mileage reset
stem before disassembling the gauge housing. Otherwise, when you pull it
out, you'll pull your speedo apart and the needle will go flying off. Just
tug on it sharply, it should come right out.
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Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2004 00:52:47 EST
Subject: Team3S: N/A auto/MVIC Q answered
Hey guys-
I have a cutaway of the DOHC motor with induction paths.
Email me if
interested ill send it to any of you. It comes from the FTO in Japan, and
is
supposed to improve torque across the RPM range.
As far as slow starts. . .is your 305 HP at the wheels
or crank? Tuning
an N/A motor is a bit tricky. Perhaps your 305 HP is joined by only 240 ft
lb
or torque. In a 3400 lb car, you need more torque then top end power
to get it
off the line quick. Peak torque could occur to high. Stock N/A motors have
it
at 4,000 RPM, waaay past what you need for a good launch.
Larger tires will increase your rollout time. . .get 16
inch tires if all
you want is fast in a straight line. A stiffer suspension will decrease
squat, which may also help.
The tranny is geared for 222 HP, not 305, so perhaps
adjusting the gear
ratios will improve your situation. FWD is also a problem. Mashing the
pedal
gives you torque steer, and that WILL make it very hard for you to launch
quickly. Brake torquing will also help you launch, although its not the
best for the
drivetrain.
Finally, having a N/A automatic myself, I can tell you
from experiance
that quickness off the line is not its specialty. The gearing is much to
tall
and the car much to heavy. If you must race the car, try to race starting
at 40
MPH or so. Mashing the auto at that speed will cause it to kick down and
put
the engine in its powerband, wich is what you will need.
Or just get a stick. . .or maybe a TT. . . : )
Good Luck
Mike
97 SL
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Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2004 00:05:52 -0600
Subject: RE: Team3S: Pulling turbos
Rich, et al.
On the topic of using propane in the garage for heat, just be
careful.
Propane creates CO just like natural gas. Give yourself plenty
of
"fresh air" time. Especially if you start to feel light headed
or
nauseous.
OK....removing the turbos:
(and oh, BTW...why would ANYONE wanna do it with the motor in the car
is
BEYOND ME)
If you twist off anymore heat sheild bolts< they're easy enough to
drill
out and re-tap if necessary once you have the precatsoff. Just put
them
in a vise to do so. You'll find the task much easier with the
sheilds
off.
If you have trouble with the turbo nuts/bolts, try using an impact
wrench...always worked for me.
Best of luck...and stay warm.
- -Jeff
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Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2004 06:41:23 -0600
Subject: RE: Team3S: N/A auto/MVIC Q answered
A higher than standard stall converter will also help to get you into
the correct powerband.
- -Cody
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Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2004 14:17:16 -0500
Subject: Re: Team3S: need help
Erik,
I was able to change plugs and wires without the removale of the TB.
It is
a little tight but doable, and saves some time and 1 gasket. (just mt
2
cents)
Dan Labonte
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Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2004 18:25:07 -0600
Subject: Team3S: TEC Strut Bar - Plenum Contact! - Motor Mounts?
About 3 weeks ago the Check Engine light came on. Found that the
Sensor for
manifold pressure differential was broken and hanging by it's wires.
I
thought it strange but dismissed it as a probable self inflicted
accident
while putting my TEC strut bar back after doing some maintenance. I
figured
I had bumped it and cracked it some time prior and it finally gave
way. I
ended up mending it with superglue and sealing the external fracture
area
with high temp silicone. Worked just fine (no check engine
light) after I
reset the ECU.
Well, the thing gave way again yesterday morning and I decided that it
was
time to go buy one figuring the glue fix couldn't withstand the
temps. And
by the way MD305600 is a cool $158 list price!
While talking with my mechanic buddy out there at the Mitsu dealer,
he
mentioned maybe engine movement caused the component contact with the
TEC
Bar. I didn't think it so due to the clearance that exists there but
sure
nuff - I see now that is indeed what is going on.
I presume now that I have tired motor mounts that need replaced?
About a
month ago before all this happened, I had an RPS Carbon-Carbon clutch
installed (which by the way is absolutely excellent) and I guess I'm
getting
more engine movement now as a result.
* Has anyone else experienced plenum contact with the TEC strut Bar?
* Is it indeed time for Motor mounts and which would be suspect?
(I have brand new stock MM's installed - upper left (visible) and
lower
right - did that when the clutch went in)
* Should I do Stock MM's or aftermarket units to lock this issue down so
it
does not recur?
* If aftermarket - which have had good result?
The TEC BAR absolutely stays - I'm not parting company with that gem.
I'm sitting here gluing my old sensor back together and will put it back
in
there for now. There is no way am I installing the new sensor until I
get
this issue resolved. In the mean time, I'll take it easy on the
launches.
Thanks
Dan
97 VR4 ~94K miles
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2 #359
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