Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Friday, January 30
2004 Volume 02 : Number 358
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 15:06:49 -0500
Subject: Team3S: Stock Alarm Question
I had to buy a new keyless entry fob for my '97 VR4. They shipped
the
'99 model of the remote, but after programming it worked fine....
Except that about a month ago the alarm started going off and has now
been sounding with increasing frequency. Unfortunately the fob
doesn't
disable the alarm and the only way I can turn it off is to disconnect
the battery.
So I have two questions:
1. Is there a way to fix the new fob so it will turn the alarm off?
2. Is there anything in the stock alarm that would cause it to become
more sensitive over time and how do I fix it?
And finally, I am under the impression that the stock alarm isn't the
most amazing piece of equipment to begin with so should I just
replace
it? And if so what should I replace it with?
Thanks for your help.
Ken
'97 VR4 stock
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 20:31:56 -0000
Subject: RE: Team3S: Stock Alarm Question
My stock fob doesn't turn off the alarm, either. I have to turn the
key in
the driver-side lock to turn it off.
- - --
Jim Matthews - Yorkshire, England
*** Team3S, 3SI #0030, GTOUK #155
***
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 16:27:03 -0500
Subject: Team3S: Factory Radio
Does anyone have a stock factory radio for sale that would fit in a
93
Stealth? It looks like a nonstandard fit and there is a
radio/cassette
in the car already but its is trashed. Wether it be the radio/eq set
up
or the radio/cassette one I am not picky. Just want some sound.
Thanks
Ted
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 13:27:12 -0800
Subject: RE: Team3S: spun a bearing by over revving engine
I certainly agree that with the way the oil pump is made, this would be
the
case at some RPM. However, from personal experience, my oil pressure is
at
it's highest at 7000RPM and climbs sharply up to there. Given the curve
I
would say the peak would be at around 13k? But that is an educated guess
and
I am pulling that number out of thin air. Bottom line, as it goes for
the
case of the member with the spun bearing, I do not think his friend
caused
it. Slightly contributed, maybe, but didn't cause it.
Tyson Varosyan
Technical Manager, Uptime Technical Solutions LLC.
206-715-TECH (8324)
UpTime/OnTime/AnyTime
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 15:23:20 -0600 (CST)
Subject: RE: Team3S: spun a bearing by over revving engine
Sorry..I think his buddy owes.
MASSIVE stress ocurrs when you overrev like that.
rods stretch, piston pins shear/bind/score..end end cap bolts stretch
a
terrific amount..
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 21:36:53 +0000
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stock Alarm Question
> 1. Is there a way to fix the new fob so it will turn the alarm
off?
Nope, that's the way it is supposed to work. To disarm a honking
alarm you need to unlock either door with your key.
> 2. Is there anything in the stock alarm that would cause it to
become
> more sensitive over time and how do I fix it?
The hood pin near the air intake tends to bend down over time, especially
if you slam your hood a few times. Bend it back up and you'll be good for
a while again.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 21:41:21 +0000
Subject: RE: Team3S: spun a bearing by over revving engine
> Sorry..I think his buddy owes.
> MASSIVE stress ocurrs when you overrev like that.
> rods stretch, piston pins shear/bind/score..end
> end cap bolts stretch a terrific amount..
I agree. It doesn't take much overrev for a rod bolt to stretch
enough to allow enough clearance to spin a rod bearing. Not good at
all. Usually an overrev as described here ends up with a broken rod
sticking out the side of the block and large puddles of fluid on the
ground.
That's why I don't let anyone drive my car... They can ride in the
passenger seat as much as they want to.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 15:42:47 -0800
Subject: Team3S: Fuel Trim Question
I'm still trying to get my car to pass smog... I removed the fuel
pump
hotwire last night and re-wired the fuel pump resistor back in.
I'm
experiencing something very strange. Using my datalogger I checked my
fuel
trims.
My low fuel trim was at 139 when the hot wire was on. After I pulled
off
the hot wire and wired in the resistor again I disconnected the battery
and
held down the brake pedal 3 times, for 5 seconds each time. Then I
waited
10 minutes to be sure. Sure enough, all fuel trims went to 100.
After 20
minutes of idling (10x2) and 15 minutes of driving the low fuel trim went
to
117. I was expecting it to go in the other direction (below 100)
because
the fuel pressure dropped significantly after removing the hot wire.
The
car was running lean at idle and idling at around 500 rpm until the
fuel
trim went up. That tells me that higher number fuel trim means richer
(the
mixture was richened by the ECU and that increased the idle back to
the
normal 700). But I'm really not sure. It doesn't add up.
Considering that
I have 450cc injectors, I'd expect the car to run rich, not lean.
So here are my questions:
1) does 117 fuel trim mean the ECU thinks the car is running rich, or
lean?
or to ask in a different way, does 117 mean that it's injecting 117%
(17&
more) than the standard amout of fuel, or does it mean that it's
injecting
17% less than normal?
2) does what happened here make any sense, or is there something wrong
with
my ECU or O2 sensors?
3) I have a moderate exhaust leak after the cat. It's big enough to
hear,
and feel the hot exhaust gas exiting out from the busted exhaust
gasket.
It's very far away from the two O2 sensors which are in the engine bay
next
to my turbos (93 stealth =OBD1, no extra precat O2 sensors), but do you
guys
think it might be screwing anything up as far as fuel trim and O2
sensor
readings?
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 17:10:09 -0700
Subject: Re: Team3S: Datalogger cables on ebay...link's not working..
Hello ...
I'm the guy that sells the Datalogger cables on eBay.
I'm also a board user on 3SI and a member of
Colorado DSM and Colorado 3S. I've sold
over 200 of these cables and they work fine.
Don could vouch for this if he'd just stop
procrastinating and buy one ... Hey Don,
you live like what ... two blocks away ??
I'll trade you one for some of those 13G
parts you have lying around ... Also, if
they don't work for you , you can return
them for a full refund. I've had 2 returns
out of over 200 cables, so thats a better
success ratio than NASA Space Shuttle
missions. You have to be careful of some
of the cables sold on ebay though. I see a
few that are advertising as being auto-on
but by looking at the terminal ends of their
cables, they clearly do not have this feature .
I also use OEM style terminals while the other
cables use spade lugs . For an extra $5 I can
even add a connector that plugs right into the
diagnostic port, but I have a limited supply of
these.If you want one of these cables, it's best
to contact me directly as than I can sell them for
$35 as there are no eBay fees and such ...
Steve Mitchell
'91 Dodge Stealth R/T TT AWD
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 16:46:09 -0800
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: OT: Need assistance in L.A.
> Looks like I may be out to the left coast again - Feb 10/11 in the
Palo Alto
area. That's not too far to make a Side-Trip to Laguna Seca or Sears
Point (I
know - Infineon) out of the question is it?
> Any body want to join me on an observation run?
> badBob
> '99VR-4
- ------------------------->
We'll be running HPDE at Sears Point on Feb 7-8 (and ET's running a
3-hour
Enduro on the 8th), and HPDE at Laguna Seca on Feb 10th. If you can
get in to
town early enough for SPR/Infineon, you could have an helluva
weekend! ;-)
SPR is about 2 hours, Laguna Seca is about 45 minutes, IIRC...
- --Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 20:04:20 -0700
Subject: Re: Team3S: Datalogger cables on ebay...link's not working..
Actually you can .... If there are two wires coming out of
the cable that attach to two terminals, than a jumper
from one of those terminals to a third terminal, pins
10 and 12 are always shorted together and the car is
always in diagnostic mode. An auto-on cable has three
individual wires coming out with a switching circuit
between the wires that go to pins 10 and 12. When
a signal is sensed on the wire going to pin 1 (the
data line from the ECU ) the switching circuit shorts
pins 10 and 12, putting the ECU into diagnostic mode.
Thats why an auto-on cable can be permantly installed
and will only put the car in diagnostic mode when needed.
One can tell by looking at the terminal end of the cable
whether it has two wires or three wires coming out of the
cable without x-ray vision.
Steve Mitchell
'91 Dodge Stealth R/T TT AWD
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 21:14:20 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: OT: Need assistance in L.A.
Bobs a wise man.
Never a bad time to watch some fun. :)
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 07:09:10 -0000
Subject: Team3S: wheel fitment
I'm looking for black rims for the track. Does anyone know if ATS /
DTM
Competition 17X9 5-114.3 35 wheels fit 2nd gens?
rce=size&productType=WHEEL&index=3&productCodeIndex=79094
Seems like an excellent price. More info on ATS wheels are
here:
- - --
Jim Matthews - Yorkshire, England
*** Team3S, 3SI #0030, GTOUK #155
***
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 02:34:45 -0500
Subject: Team3S: Mass/NH/Maine area mechanic found
I am posting this in case anybody is in the same situation as myself.
I was
looking to get my 60k service done at the local dealerships, but I
refused
to pay $1400. As a funny aside, when talking to the dealers they
highlight
stuff like "we change your oil", "wash your car", "clean your battery
terminals", etc.. My response was that I don't need to pay
somebody
$72/hour to provide those services.
Anyways, my wife teaches mechanical engineering at the University of
New
Hampshire, and I asked her to ask around for a reliable mechanic. It
turns
out that a past student of her's dad owns a shop nearby, and was willing
to
do the work for $50/hr at a projected 5 1/2 hours. So if anyone in
the
Mass/NH/Maine area is looking for a reliable mechanic, well he is a
mechanical engineer (and his dad is an accomplished mechanic by all
accounts) so I will post an update on how it goes, and refer anybody
that
may be interested.
I've been looking for a reliable mechanic in this area for awhile, so
hopefully this will be of help to somebody in my situation.
- - Richard
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 03:36:54 -0600
Subject: Re: Team3S: Mass/NH/Maine area mechanic found
> So if anyone in the
>Mass/NH/Maine area is looking for a reliable mechanic, well he is
a
>mechanical engineer
I used to live near Ohio State Univ in the 1970s, when I was running
the
Datsun 510 pro rally car. My mechanics were not mechanical engineers.
My tuner had a master's degree in philosophy, and owned British Auto
Service.
The guy who welded in my roll bar had a master's degree in sociology
and
worked at a muffler shop. Best dang welder in town.
Therefore, my conclusion is that liberal arts majors can work on
Datsuns,
but it takes an engineering degree to work on a Mitsubishi.
It also shows the problem of getting a master's degree in subjects
like
philosophy and sociology. Unless you can get a job teaching it to
other
people, you are doomed to work on Datsuns.
Better you should get an engineering degree, so when your job is
outsourced
to India or your plant moves to China, you can work on Mitsubishis.
Rich/slow old poop/boy is it late (3:35 am)
>
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 08:08:47 -0500
Subject: RE: Team3S: Mass/NH/Maine area mechanic found
Well my degree is in computer science, but given my experience with
Indian
programmers, I'm not sweating about being replaced any time
soon I
surely wasn't meaning to imply that a mechanical engineer necessarily
makes
for a better auto mechanic (my wife can't handle any practical
engineering,
not even a toaster, just theoretical stuff for satellite controls,
etc).
This particular guy is working on a formula SAE entry (
www.sae.com) on the
weekends, where they design, fabricate, and compete with small formula
style
race cars... sounds pretty cool, anyways better him than me wrenching
my
car... maybe I'll pick something up watching him work.
- - Richard
- -----Original Message-----
Better you should get an engineering degree, so when your job is
outsourced
to India or your plant moves to China, you can work on Mitsubishis.
Rich/slow old poop/boy is it late (3:35 am)
>
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 08:28:18 -0500
Subject: RE: Team3S: Mass/NH/Maine area mechanic found
- -----Original Message-----
This particular guy is working on a formula SAE entry (
www.sae.com) on the
- -----Original Message-----
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 08:32:39 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Team3S: Datalogger Cables
"Also , how many of the connectors do you have,
and how much do you want for them ? "
I think I have approx 10. How does 8 dollars (shipped) a connector
sound. You could
contact ShiVeR as well (that's were I got them from... long story made
short we worked on
a cable design together, but split as I wanted active and he wanted
passive). I know he
has a ton, but might not sell them to you as you are a competetor.
Come to think of it I
better ask him if it is ok to distrube them to you in a small
quantity. BTW both cables
should work with the TMO/ShiVeR,whatever software, you just have to reverse
the RX/TX
lines.
"Just to be funny, I should offer a Datalogger
schematic to Jeff and see what he says. "
Go for it. I just had meet him for the first time a couple of seconds
early when I asked
him.... so he might put it up now.
BTW I feel you cable price if fairly priced.
J.A. Wieman
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 09:47:23 -0500
Subject: Team3S: Datalogger cables on ebay...link's not working..
I bought a cable like this, I'm pretty sure from the same guy. I
bought mine right before the DSM Shootout this summer, and it never
worked correctly with my Palm, the software refused to link up with the
cable. Another 3S guy at the Shootout tried to link up using his
palm,
and had no luck, even with different software. I used the link cable
that he sold, and it worked great. Of course, now I can't remember
his
name or where his website was, but his cables were sweet because they
used a real Mitsu-style plug. I remember the clips on this guy's
cables were poorly soldered to the wires and came apart after about two
attempts to plug it in.
In short, save your money and get a different one. If I find that
guy's site, I'll send it out.
Regards,
Ted Matherly
'92 Stealth TT
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 08:33:39 -0700
Subject: Re: Team3S: Datalogger cables on ebay...link's not working..
Checking my records, my first cable shipped on Aug. 29 , 2003
I also have nothing on file for a " Ted Matherly" so I'm pretty sure
I'm not the same guy. Before you slam sombody's product, you should
make sure you have the right person, before saying " I'm pretty sure
its
the same guy ... so save your money ..." I have hundreds of satisfied
customers, the eBay feedback to prove it, and a no questions asked
return policy ....
Steve M
'91 Dodge Stealth R/T TT AWD
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 10:20:25 -0800
Subject: Team3S: Engine / transmission fluids
I'm getting ready to fill my replacement engine and transmission with
fluids (the end is near in the replacement process).
I'm thinking of using the following fluids and I appreciate any
comments.
Transmission / transfer case gear oil: Redline MT-90/MTL 50/50 mix.
My local parts house has these for $24.99/ga or $6.49/qt. I'm thinking I
will by 3 qt of each for a 50/50 mix. It is also suggested that we might
run a 66/33, in which case I'll get 2 qt of MT-90 and 1qt of MTL. My
transmission and transfer case are original with about 104k miles.
Engine oil: Mobil-1 (is there a particular weight to use?). This is a
J-Spec replacement engine with unknown miles, probably less than 60k.
Coolant: 12 oz Redline Water Wetter + ???
The redline web site suggests one 12oz bottle for 12-16 qt systems. The
also suggest about a 20% glycol mix for summer AC use to keep from freezing
the heater core. The bottom line from their web site is the lower the
glycol mix the better the performance (100% water + water wetter is the
best for heat transfer). I'm curious as to what any of you think about
using Water Wetter and a 20% glycol mix. Also, what anti-freeze (glycol) is
popular?
Thanks.
- --------------------------------------------------------------
Mike Gerhard
1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Pearl White
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 11:24:26 -0700
Subject: Team3S: need help
Hi my name is norman i live in edmonton Alberta i have a 91 stealth
r/t my
car is slow of the line i just put in a new
eng I put in a new crank ,pistons at 11.1 balance crank,new
intake
valve,bore my block did valves and seats.shaved my deads and so on
now my
car is still slow off the line how do check my intake to see my b
flys are
opening right Thanks norm P.S is thare any thing elece i should
look at.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 12:24:59 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: Team3S: need help
Wow..lots of money in there.
So..what are your A/F readings across the RPM band and timing?
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 15:12:18 -0500
Subject: Re: Team3S: need help
This engine has only one butterfly - the throttle body. You can pull
your
Y-pipe off and see it move.
Philip
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2 #358
***************************************