Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth   Friday, January 30 2004   Volume 02 : Number 358
 
 
 
----------------------------------------------------------------------
 
 
 
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 15:06:49 -0500
 
From: "Ken Lovell" <wklovell@yahoo.com>
 
Subject: Team3S: Stock Alarm Question
 
 
 
I had to buy a new keyless entry fob for my '97 VR4.  They shipped the
 
'99 model of the remote, but after programming it worked fine....
 
 
 
Except that about a month ago the alarm started going off and has now
 
been sounding with increasing frequency.  Unfortunately the fob doesn't
 
disable the alarm and the only way I can turn it off is to disconnect
 
the battery.
 
 
 
So I have two questions:
 
1. Is there a way to fix the new fob so it will turn the alarm off?
 
2. Is there anything in the stock alarm that would cause it to become
 
more sensitive over time and how do I fix it?
 
 
 
And finally, I am under the impression that the stock alarm isn't the
 
most amazing piece of equipment to begin with so should I just replace
 
it?   And if so what should I replace it with?
 
 
 
Thanks for your help.
 
 
 
Ken
 
'97 VR4 stock
 
 
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
------------------------------
 
 
 
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 20:31:56 -0000
 
From: "Jim Matthews" <jim@the-matthews.com>
 
Subject: RE: Team3S: Stock Alarm Question
 
 
 
My stock fob doesn't turn off the alarm, either.  I have to turn the key in
 
the driver-side lock to turn it off.
 
 
 
- - --
 
Jim Matthews - Yorkshire, England
 
 
 
       *** Team3S, 3SI #0030, GTOUK #155 ***
 
      http://www.the-matthews.com/stealth.html
 
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
 
 
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
------------------------------
 
 
 
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 16:27:03 -0500
 
From: Ted pangrace <tpan@adelphia.net>
 
Subject: Team3S: Factory Radio
 
 
 
Does anyone have a stock factory radio for sale that would fit in a 93
 
Stealth?  It looks like a nonstandard fit and there is a radio/cassette
 
in the car already but its is trashed.  Wether it be the radio/eq set up
 
or the radio/cassette one I am not picky.  Just want some sound.
 
 
 
Thanks
 
Ted
 
 
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
------------------------------
 
 
 
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 13:27:12 -0800
 
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <tigran@tigran.com>
 
Subject: RE: Team3S: spun a bearing by over revving engine
 
 
 
I certainly agree that with the way the oil pump is made, this would be the
 
case at some RPM. However, from personal experience, my oil pressure is at
 
it's highest at 7000RPM and climbs sharply up to there. Given the curve I
 
would say the peak would be at around 13k? But that is an educated guess and
 
I am pulling that number out of thin air. Bottom line, as it goes for the
 
case of the member with the spun bearing, I do not think his friend caused
 
it. Slightly contributed, maybe, but didn't cause it.
 
 
 
 
 
Tyson Varosyan
 
Technical Manager, Uptime Technical Solutions LLC.
 
tyson@up-times.com
 
www.up-times.com
 
206-715-TECH (8324)
 
 
 
UpTime/OnTime/AnyTime
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
------------------------------
 
 
 
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 15:23:20 -0600 (CST)
 
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
 
Subject: RE: Team3S: spun a bearing by over revving engine
 
 
 
Sorry..I think his buddy owes.
 
 
 
MASSIVE stress ocurrs when you overrev like that.
 
 
 
rods stretch, piston pins shear/bind/score..end end cap bolts stretch a
 
terrific amount..
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
------------------------------
 
 
 
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 21:36:53 +0000
 
From: mjannusch@comcast.net
 
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stock Alarm Question
 
 
 
> 1. Is there a way to fix the new fob so it will turn the alarm off?
 
 
 
Nope, that's the way it is supposed to work.  To disarm a honking alarm you need to unlock either door with your key.
 
 
 
> 2. Is there anything in the stock alarm that would cause it to become
 
> more sensitive over time and how do I fix it?
 
 
 
The hood pin near the air intake tends to bend down over time, especially if you slam your hood a few times.  Bend it back up and you'll be good for a while again.
 
 
 
- -Matt
 
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
------------------------------
 
 
 
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 21:41:21 +0000
 
From: mjannusch@comcast.net
 
Subject: RE: Team3S: spun a bearing by over revving engine
 
 
 
> Sorry..I think his buddy owes.
 
> MASSIVE stress ocurrs when you overrev like that.
 
> rods stretch, piston pins shear/bind/score..end
 
> end cap bolts stretch a terrific amount..
 
 
 
I agree.  It doesn't take much overrev for a rod bolt to stretch enough to allow enough clearance to spin a rod bearing.  Not good at all.  Usually an overrev as described here ends up with a broken rod sticking out the side of the block and large puddles of fluid on the ground.
 
 
 
That's why I don't let anyone drive my car...  They can ride in the passenger seat as much as they want to.
 
 
 
- -Matt
 
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
------------------------------
 
 
 
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 15:42:47 -0800
 
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <riyan@hotpop.com>
 
Subject: Team3S: Fuel Trim Question
 
 
 
I'm still trying to get my car to pass smog... I removed the fuel pump
 
hotwire last night and re-wired the fuel pump resistor back in.  I'm
 
experiencing something very strange.  Using my datalogger I checked my fuel
 
trims.
 
 
 
My low fuel trim was at 139 when the hot wire was on.  After I pulled off
 
the hot wire and wired in the resistor again I disconnected the battery and
 
held down the brake pedal 3 times, for 5 seconds each time.  Then I waited
 
10 minutes to be sure.  Sure enough, all fuel trims went to 100.  After 20
 
minutes of idling (10x2) and 15 minutes of driving the low fuel trim went to
 
117.  I was expecting it to go in the other direction (below 100) because
 
the fuel pressure dropped significantly after removing the hot wire.  The
 
car was running lean at idle and idling at around 500 rpm until the fuel
 
trim went up.  That tells me that higher number fuel trim means richer (the
 
mixture was richened by the ECU and that increased the idle back to the
 
normal 700).  But I'm really not sure.  It doesn't add up. Considering that
 
I have 450cc injectors, I'd expect the car to run rich, not lean.
 
 
 
So here are my questions:
 
 
 
1) does 117 fuel trim mean the ECU thinks the car is running rich, or lean?
 
or to ask in a different way, does 117 mean that it's injecting 117% (17&
 
more) than the standard amout of fuel, or does it mean that it's injecting
 
17% less than normal?
 
2) does what happened here make any sense, or is there something wrong with
 
my ECU or O2 sensors?
 
3) I have a moderate exhaust leak after the cat.  It's big enough to hear,
 
and feel the hot exhaust gas exiting out from the busted exhaust gasket.
 
It's very far away from the two O2 sensors which are in the engine bay next
 
to my turbos (93 stealth =OBD1, no extra precat O2 sensors), but do you guys
 
think it might be screwing anything up as far as fuel trim and O2 sensor
 
readings?
 
 
 
Riyan
 
93 stealth rt tt
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
------------------------------
 
 
 
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 17:10:09 -0700
 
From: "Steve Mitchell" <stevem@ibew68.com>
 
Subject: Re: Team3S: Datalogger cables on ebay...link's not working..
 
 
 
Hello ...
 
 
 
I'm the guy that sells the Datalogger cables on eBay.
 
I'm also a board user on 3SI and a member of
 
Colorado DSM and Colorado 3S. I've sold
 
over 200 of these cables and they work fine.
 
Don could vouch for this if he'd just stop
 
procrastinating and buy one ... Hey Don,
 
you live like what ... two blocks away ??
 
I'll trade you one for some of those 13G
 
parts you have lying around ... Also, if
 
they don't work for you , you can return
 
them for a full refund. I've had 2 returns
 
out of over 200 cables, so thats a better
 
success ratio than NASA Space Shuttle
 
missions. You have to be careful of some
 
of the cables sold on ebay though. I see a
 
few that are advertising as being auto-on
 
but by looking at the terminal ends of their
 
cables, they clearly do not have this feature .
 
I also use OEM style terminals while the other
 
cables use spade lugs . For an extra $5 I can
 
even add a connector that plugs right into the
 
diagnostic port, but I have a limited supply of
 
these.If you want one of these cables, it's best
 
to contact me directly as than I can sell them for
 
$35 as there are no eBay fees and such ...
 
 
 
Steve Mitchell
 
'91 Dodge Stealth R/T TT AWD
 
stevem@ibew68.com
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
------------------------------
 
 
 
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 16:46:09 -0800
 
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
 
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: OT: Need assistance in L.A.
 
 
 
From: "bob atkins" <ratkins@cfl.rr.com>
 
> Looks like I may be out to the left coast again - Feb 10/11 in the Palo Alto
 
area.  That's not too far to make a Side-Trip to Laguna Seca or Sears Point (I
 
know - Infineon) out of the question is it?
 
> Any body want to join me on an observation run?
 
> badBob
 
> '99VR-4
 
- ------------------------->
 
 
 
We'll be running HPDE at Sears Point on Feb 7-8 (and ET's running a 3-hour
 
Enduro on the 8th), and HPDE at Laguna Seca on Feb 10th.  If you can get in to
 
town early enough for SPR/Infineon, you could have an helluva weekend!  ;-)
 
SPR is about 2 hours, Laguna Seca is about 45 minutes, IIRC...
 
 
 
- --Forrest
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
------------------------------
 
 
 
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 20:04:20 -0700
 
From: "Steve Mitchell" <stevem@ibew68.com>
 
Subject: Re: Team3S: Datalogger cables on ebay...link's not working..
 
 
 
Actually you can .... If there are two wires coming out of
 
the cable that attach to two terminals, than a jumper
 
from one of those terminals to a  third terminal, pins
 
10 and 12 are always shorted together and the car is
 
always in diagnostic mode. An auto-on cable has three
 
individual wires coming out with a switching circuit
 
between the wires that go to pins 10 and 12. When
 
a signal is sensed on the wire going to pin 1 (the
 
data line from the ECU ) the switching circuit shorts
 
pins 10 and 12, putting the ECU into diagnostic mode.
 
Thats why an auto-on cable can be permantly installed
 
and will only put the car in diagnostic mode when needed.
 
One can tell by looking at the terminal end of the cable
 
whether it has two wires or three wires coming out of the
 
cable without x-ray vision.
 
 
 
Steve Mitchell
 
'91 Dodge Stealth R/T TT AWD
 
stevem@ibew68.com
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
------------------------------
 
 
 
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 21:14:20 -0600 (CST)
 
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
 
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: OT: Need assistance in L.A.
 
 
 
Bobs a wise man.
 
 
 
Never a bad time to watch some fun.  :)
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
------------------------------
 
 
 
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 07:09:10 -0000
 
From: "Jim Matthews" <jim@the-matthews.com>
 
Subject: Team3S: wheel fitment
 
 
 
I'm looking for black rims for the track.  Does anyone know if ATS / DTM
 
Competition 17X9 5-114.3 35 wheels fit 2nd gens?
 
 
 
http://www.discounttiredirect.com/direct/findWheelDetail.do?step=details&sou
 
rce=size&productType=WHEEL&index=3&productCodeIndex=79094
 
 
 
 
 
Seems like an excellent price.  More info on ATS wheels are here:
 
 
 
http://www.alustar-wheels.de/index_gb/home/ats/ats.html
 
 
 
 
 
- - --
 
Jim Matthews - Yorkshire, England
 
 
 
       *** Team3S, 3SI #0030, GTOUK #155 ***
 
      http://www.the-matthews.com/stealth.html
 
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
 
 
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
------------------------------
 
 
 
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 02:34:45 -0500
 
From: "aposdoc" <aposdoc@comcast.net>
 
Subject: Team3S: Mass/NH/Maine area mechanic found
 
 
 
I am posting this in case anybody is in the same situation as myself.  I was
 
looking to get my 60k service done at the local dealerships, but I refused
 
to pay $1400.  As a funny aside, when talking to the dealers they highlight
 
stuff like "we change your oil", "wash your car", "clean your battery
 
terminals", etc..  My response was that I don't need to pay somebody
 
$72/hour to provide those services. 
 
 
 
Anyways, my wife teaches mechanical engineering at the University of New
 
Hampshire, and I asked her to ask around for a reliable mechanic.  It turns
 
out that a past student of her's dad owns a shop nearby, and was willing to
 
do the work for $50/hr at a projected 5 1/2 hours.  So if anyone in the
 
Mass/NH/Maine area is looking for a reliable mechanic, well he is a
 
mechanical engineer (and his dad is an accomplished mechanic by all
 
accounts) so I will post an update on how it goes, and refer anybody that
 
may be interested. 
 
 
 
I've been looking for a reliable mechanic in this area for awhile, so
 
hopefully this will be of help to somebody in my situation.
 
 
 
- - Richard
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
------------------------------
 
 
 
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 03:36:54 -0600
 
From: Rich Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
 
Subject: Re: Team3S: Mass/NH/Maine area mechanic found
 
 
 
> So if anyone in the
 
>Mass/NH/Maine area is looking for a reliable mechanic, well he is a
 
>mechanical engineer
 
 
 
I used to live near Ohio State Univ in the 1970s, when I was running the
 
Datsun 510 pro rally car. My mechanics were not mechanical engineers.
 
 
 
My tuner had a master's degree in philosophy, and owned British Auto Service.
 
The guy who welded in my roll bar had a master's degree in sociology and
 
worked at a muffler shop. Best dang welder in town.
 
 
 
Therefore, my conclusion is that liberal arts majors can work on Datsuns,
 
but it takes an engineering degree to work on a Mitsubishi.
 
 
 
It also shows the problem of getting a master's degree in subjects like
 
philosophy and sociology. Unless you can get a job teaching it to other
 
people, you are doomed to work on Datsuns.
 
 
 
Better you should get an engineering degree, so when your job is outsourced
 
to India or your plant moves to China, you can work on Mitsubishis.
 
 
 
Rich/slow old poop/boy is it late (3:35 am)
 
>
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
------------------------------
 
 
 
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 08:08:47 -0500
 
From: "aposdoc" <aposdoc@comcast.net>
 
Subject: RE: Team3S: Mass/NH/Maine area mechanic found
 
 
 
Well my degree is in computer science, but given my experience with Indian
 
programmers, I'm not sweating about being replaced any time soon   I
 
surely wasn't meaning to imply that a mechanical engineer necessarily makes
 
for a better auto mechanic (my wife can't handle any practical engineering,
 
not even a toaster, just theoretical stuff for satellite controls, etc).
 
This particular guy is working on a formula SAE entry (www.sae.com) on the
 
weekends, where they design, fabricate, and compete with small formula style
 
race cars...  sounds pretty cool, anyways better him than me wrenching my
 
car...  maybe I'll pick something up watching him work.
 
 
 
- - Richard
 
 
 
- -----Original Message-----
 
 
 
Better you should get an engineering degree, so when your job is outsourced
 
to India or your plant moves to China, you can work on Mitsubishis.
 
 
 
Rich/slow old poop/boy is it late (3:35 am)
 
>
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
------------------------------
 
 
 
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 08:28:18 -0500
 
From: "aposdoc" <aposdoc@comcast.net>
 
Subject: RE: Team3S: Mass/NH/Maine area mechanic found
 
 
 
Correction: that's http://www.sae.org/students/formula.htm duh..
 
 
 
- -----Original Message-----
 
This particular guy is working on a formula SAE entry (www.sae.com) on the
 
 
 
- -----Original Message-----
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
------------------------------
 
 
 
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 08:32:39 -0600 (CST)
 
From: <jawieman@iastate.edu>
 
Subject: Team3S: Datalogger Cables
 
 
 
"Also , how many of the connectors do you have,
 
and how much do you want for them ? "
 
 
 
I think I have approx 10. How does 8 dollars (shipped) a connector sound.  You could
 
contact ShiVeR as well (that's were I got them from... long story made short we worked on
 
a cable design together, but split as I wanted active and he wanted passive).  I know he
 
has a ton, but might not sell them to you as you are a competetor.  Come to think of it I
 
better ask him if it is ok to distrube them to you in a small quantity.  BTW both cables
 
should work with the TMO/ShiVeR,whatever software, you just have to reverse the RX/TX
 
lines.
 
 
 
"Just to be funny, I should offer a Datalogger
 
schematic to Jeff and see what he says. "
 
 
 
Go for it.  I just had meet him for the first time a couple of seconds early when I asked
 
him.... so he might put it up now.
 
 
 
BTW I feel you cable price if fairly priced.
 
 
 
 
 
J.A. Wieman
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
------------------------------
 
 
 
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 09:47:23 -0500
 
From: Ted Matherly <jemather@umich.edu>
 
Subject: Team3S: Datalogger cables on ebay...link's not working..
 
 
 
I bought a cable like this, I'm pretty sure from the same guy.  I
 
bought mine right before the DSM Shootout this summer, and it never
 
worked correctly with my Palm, the software refused to link up with the
 
cable.  Another 3S guy at the Shootout tried to link up using his palm,
 
and had no luck, even with different software.  I used the link cable
 
that he sold, and it worked great.  Of course, now I can't remember his
 
name or where his website was, but his cables were sweet because they
 
used a real Mitsu-style plug.  I remember the clips on this guy's
 
cables were poorly soldered to the wires and came apart after about two
 
attempts to plug it in.
 
 
 
In short, save your money and get a different one.  If I find that
 
guy's site, I'll send it out.
 
 
 
Regards,
 
Ted Matherly
 
jemather@umich.edu
 
'92 Stealth TT
 
 
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
------------------------------
 
 
 
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 08:33:39 -0700
 
From: "Steve Mitchell" <stevem@ibew68.com>
 
Subject: Re: Team3S: Datalogger cables on ebay...link's not working..
 
 
 
Checking my records, my first cable shipped on Aug. 29 , 2003
 
I also have nothing on file for a " Ted Matherly" so I'm pretty sure
 
I'm not the same guy. Before you slam sombody's product, you should
 
make sure you have the right person, before saying " I'm pretty sure its
 
the same guy ... so save your money ..." I have hundreds of satisfied
 
customers, the eBay feedback to prove it, and a no questions asked
 
return policy ....
 
 
 
Steve M
 
'91 Dodge Stealth R/T TT AWD
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
------------------------------
 
 
 
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 10:20:25 -0800
 
From: Mike Gerhard <gerhard1@llnl.gov>
 
Subject: Team3S: Engine / transmission fluids
 
 
 
I'm getting ready to fill my replacement engine and transmission with
 
fluids (the end is near in the replacement process).
 
 
 
I'm thinking of using the following fluids and I appreciate any comments.
 
 
 
Transmission / transfer case gear oil: Redline MT-90/MTL 50/50 mix.
 
My local parts house has these for $24.99/ga or $6.49/qt. I'm thinking I
 
will by 3 qt of each for a 50/50 mix. It is also suggested that we might
 
run a 66/33, in which case I'll get 2 qt of MT-90 and 1qt of MTL. My
 
transmission and transfer case are original with about 104k miles.
 
 
 
 
 
Engine oil: Mobil-1 (is there a particular weight to use?). This is a
 
J-Spec replacement engine with unknown miles, probably less than 60k.
 
 
 
 
 
Coolant: 12 oz Redline Water Wetter + ???
 
The redline web site suggests one 12oz bottle for 12-16 qt systems. The
 
also suggest about a 20% glycol mix for summer AC use to keep from freezing
 
the heater core. The bottom line from their web site is the lower the
 
glycol mix the better the performance (100% water + water wetter is the
 
best for heat transfer). I'm curious as to what any of you think about
 
using Water Wetter and a 20% glycol mix. Also, what anti-freeze (glycol) is
 
popular?
 
 
 
Thanks.
 
 
 
- --------------------------------------------------------------
 
Mike Gerhard           1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4  Pearl White
 
 
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
------------------------------
 
 
 
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 11:24:26 -0700
 
From: norman <normanross@shaw.ca>
 
Subject: Team3S: need help
 
 
 
Hi my name is norman i live in edmonton  Alberta i have a 91 stealth r/t my
 
car is slow of the line i just put in a new
 
 eng I put in a new crank ,pistons at 11.1 balance crank,new  intake
 
valve,bore my block did valves and seats.shaved my deads and so on  now my
 
car is still slow off the line how do check my intake to see  my b flys are
 
opening  right  Thanks norm P.S is thare any thing elece i should look at.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
------------------------------
 
 
 
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 12:24:59 -0600 (CST)
 
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
 
Subject: Re: Team3S: need help
 
 
 
Wow..lots of money in there.
 
 
 
So..what are your A/F readings across the RPM band and timing?
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
------------------------------
 
 
 
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 15:12:18 -0500
 
From: pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com
 
Subject: Re: Team3S: need help
 
 
 
This engine has only one butterfly - the throttle body. You can pull your
 
Y-pipe off and see it move.
 
 
 
Philip
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
------------------------------
 
 
 
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2 #358
 
***************************************