Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, January 28 2004 Volume
02 : Number 356
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Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 11:15:23 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Team3S: '91 VR4 Saner Front Sway Bar experiences
I purchased Saner bar(s) last fall from 3sx and the front is 90
percent
installed on my '93 vr-4. THE ARMS LOOK LOOK SHORT (stupid me didn't
compare
old/new like you did). I'll complete the installation ASAP and post
pictures.
Glenn
At Tue, 27 Jan 2004 11:04:15 -0800, you wrote
>I'm wondering if anyone out there has a 1991 VR4 and has upgraded the
front
>sway bar with the Saner sway bar. I've noticed that my OEM bar and the
>Saner bar differ, mostly at the ends. I have yet to install mine and
I'm
>looking for any insights from someone who has installed this upgrade on
>their '91.
>
>--------------------------------------------------------------
>Mike
Gerhard 1991
Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Pearl White
>
>
>
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 16:57:30 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Team3S: Bent suspension? Mech in SF?
Well my car is still in the shop after getting some new wheels and
tires.
The shop told me I need new brakes which I am going to try to do
myself.
Today I got a call saying that the suspension is bent as well and
they
can't do the alignment!
Left is 2 degrees out of spec and the right is out of spec too (pushed
up
and the caster angle is off?). He says I will need 2 new lower
control
arms as well as a new subframe. Is this guy legit? Also, can anyone
recommend a good mechanic in SF? Bob, I know you mentioned one to me
before, does he do suspension stuff?
Thanks
Mike
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 17:05:16 -0500
Subject: RE: Team3S: Bent suspension? Mech in SF?
A bent subframe? Now Mike, the car is AWD, but that doesn't mean you
can use it for your weekend offroading.
(PS--I don't buy it (the subframe part), although if your lower ball joints
are really worn, it probably can throw your specs way off).
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 17:10:46 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Team3S: Bent suspension? Mech in SF?
Sorry about the double post, but I wanted to know if it would be OK
to
drive with the suspension problems I listed below. I'm assuming I'll
get
some steering wheel shake and uneven tire wear, but I am going to try
to
drive safely and rotate my tires regularly.
Thanks again.
Well my car is still in the shop after getting some new wheels and
tires.
The shop told me I need new brakes which I am going to try to do
myself.
Today I got a call saying that the suspension is bent as well and
they
can't do the alignment!
Left is 2 degrees out of spec and the right is out of spec too (pushed
up
and the caster angle is off?). He says I will need 2 new lower
control
arms as well as a new subframe. Is this guy legit? Also, can anyone
recommend a good mechanic in SF? Bob, I know you mentioned one to me
before, does he do suspension stuff?
Thanks
Mike
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 16:15:42 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: Team3S: Bent suspension? Mech in SF?
Ya..shop around.
Most shops cannot comprehend how to align your car. Ive been
there
myself.
I was told by shops all over hell and back something was bent, until
a
shop had the brains to figure it out.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 16:23:04 -0600
Subject: Re: Team3S: Bent suspension? Mech in SF?
You certainly don't want to buy parts from the dealer.
Try a wrecking yard.
YOu can remove/replace the lower control arms yourself (if I can do
it,
anybody can), but I dunno about the subframe. YOu may need a
collision
repair shop for that one, depending on what piece is bent. OTOH,
various
pieces of the subframe do come loose, so they can be replaced.
But first, I think I would get a second opinion. Find another shop with
a
four-wheel alignment system, and stay with them while they do it.
Write
down everything the dude says. Ask him to show you what things are
bent.
Maybe somebody on the list here can send/fax/email a suspension
blowup
drawing, so you can identify the parts. If you can see individual
parts
that are bent, and they bolt on, then you can replace them yourself.
It
also may be that the first shop is full of beans.
The car looks daunting and impossible to work on, but once you get it up
on
jackstands and have a bunch of knowledgeable friends helping, you can
fix
just about anything. Up to a year ago, I was paying for all repairs
and
mods, and taking vast abuse from Geoff and the other mechanical wizards
on
the list. In the past six months, I've pulled and replaced the
transmission
twice, and we just pulled the engine today.
All you really need is a bunch of mechanically oriented friends who like
to
work on cars, like the Stealth Boys here in Cedar Rapids. There ought
to
be one or two simlarly inclined folk on the Left Coast. Not everybody
out
there is a zillionaire.
Rich/slow old poop/94 VR4
>Today I got a call saying that the suspension is bent as well and
they
>can't do the alignment!
>
>
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 18:53:51 -0600
Subject: Team3S: Rebuilding Porsche Calipers
The aggravation I am going through concerning a rebuild kit for my
Porsche
Big Red calipers leads me to this conclusion:
Forget Big Reds as an upgrade path on brakes. They work great, but if
they
need service, parts are almost impossible to find and they cost a
%%$#ing
fortune when you do find them. A rebuild kit will cost me $28 per
piston
times four pistons/per caliper times two calipers just to fix my
leaking
piston seals. Get out of town, dude! That's $224 for seals and parts
that
are worth about 17 cents at the local hardware store.
Recommendation: Find a different upgrade path for brakes. StopTech
maybe?
Rich/slow old poop/somebody stop me!
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 21:05:43 -0500
Subject: Team3S: OT garage specs
Hello all,
I am shopping for a home and I would like for it to have a garage. I
was
wondering if anyone could give me some advice on what size I would need
and
if I would be better off finding a home without a garage and building
one
on.
I do most, if not all, of the work on my car and I would like to be
able
to pull the engine if need be.
Sorry for being off topic.
Joseph
93 3KGT VR-4
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 00:28:33 -0300
Subject: Team3S: Euro style tail lamps for 92 3000GT
Hi,
Does anyone know if there is any replacement for the tail lights, on
the Euro Style (or Altezza), or any other crystal tail light?
Thanks
Cesar
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 22:44:20 -0600
Subject: Re: Team3S: Bent suspension? Mech in SF?
>YOu can remove/replace the lower control arms yourself (if I can do
it,
anybody can), but I dunno about the subframe. YOu may need a
collision
repair shop for that one, depending on what piece is bent. OTOH,
various
pieces of the subframe do come loose, so they can be replaced.
>
By subframe I presume that is the "H shaped" (sort of) rear cradle. On
my
VR4 the cam relief welded to the cradle that enables rear camber
adjustment
as the bolt is turned had fractured. Appears someone had problems
with
alignment sometime, torqued it to breaking point and sprung the
assembly.
Always had weird alignment issues and being a particular cuss I opted
to
replace the cradle. It is (or was a year ago) $635 from Mitsu parts
direct.
I had my trusted Mitsu dealer do mine - they always let me stand around
and
watch whenever I want. After looking at the removal carnage, I
wouldn't
want to get close to that job unless using a lift. Absolutley
eveything
down stream of the transfer case has to come out.
Dan
97 VR4
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 21:28:26 -0800
Subject: Team3S: New Wheel Shop
I was over at B&B Auto Parts here in Renton, WA; where I was approached
by a
guy who saw my road-rashed 18" stock chrome wheel on my 95 Stealth TT.
He
said he just opened a new shop (Dependable Wheel Repair) at 123 Mill Ave
S.
(425-228-8711) in Renton and could fix my wheel (scrapes around the lip
and
a small bend) for about $60. He doesn't do painting, powder-coat or
re-chroming (yet).
His name is Tim Foster. Anyone know him or know of his work?
Gary
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 00:02:51 -0600
Subject: Re: Team3S: OT garage specs
> I am shopping for a home and I would like for it to have a
garage. I was
>wondering if anyone could give me some advice on what size I would need
and
>if I would be better off finding a home without a garage and building
one
>on.
Make sure that the garage has individual stall doors if it's a two car or
a
three car. Reason is, it separates the cars better, and gives more
room
between cars.
If you are building a home, put a high enough ceiling in the garage (12
ft
is good) so you can install a lift someday. Also, make sure it has
plenty
of electrical outlets, insulation, and a heater.
Rich/slow old poop
>
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 00:36:30 -0600
Subject: RE: Team3S: OT garage specs
Hey, as long as we're dreaming, why not build yourself a nice pit
too....sure would be nice to get under the car sometimes without
having
to lift her.
ANYWAY...here are some of my mental notes from my two rebuilds(so
far):
More room than you think you'll need. Allow yourself one more bay
than
you're sure you'll need.
High ceiling, like rich says.
If you plan on doing anything SERIOUS...engine, tranny rebuilds,
paint,
etc.....make sure you have enough floor space for ALL of your tool
chests, work benches, air compressors, parts washers, engine cranes
and
stands. I can't tell you how important SPACE is.
All things considered, if I could afford to do so, I would build
myself
a basic pole barn with electricity and running water...that way, I
could
keep the cars in the garage and the toys in the toy shack. My dad and
I
are at the tail end of my 2nd rebuld on my car and just starting a
restoration of a 1959 Ford Skyliner hardtop retractable. His garage
is
a mess and a crowded, logistical nightmare right now.
For what it's worth,
- -Jeff C.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 13:05:32 +0100
Subject: RE: Team3S: Euro style tail lamps for 92 3000GT
Why the hell you guys tell these goofy lights Euro style ??? Has
nothign
to do with Europe or the cars available here. Thanks god there are none
for
our cars !!
Roger G.
93 & 96 3000GT TT
>-- Original-Nachricht --
>Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 00:28:33 -0300
>Subject: Team3S: Euro style tail lamps for 92 3000GT
>
>
>Hi,
> Does anyone know if there is any replacement for the tail
lights, on
>the Euro Style (or Altezza), or any other crystal tail light?
> Thanks
> Cesar
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 08:30:15 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
Subject: Team3S: Oil Pressure - how low is too low ???
I just installed my Greedy oil pressure gage and I want to set the warning
light. How low is too low for the oil pressure in our cars - crusing vs. idle
?
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 07:45:21 -0800
Subject: RE: Team3S: Bent suspension? Mech in SF?
Hello:
I have right and left lower control arms, replaced long time ago to
improve handling, but show very little wear. They are free for the
asking, and I am in SF (Pacifica). By the way, any good mechanics in
the
Bay Area?
Thanks,
Ed Vinces
91 VR4
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 11:35:42 -0500
Subject: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Rebuilding Porsche Calipers
Dayum - let me get my set so that I can wear em out first!!!
Good Question though. Eventually we weill need to know as well as
replacement rotor costs.
Anxiously waiting,
badBob
'99VR-4
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 11:42:12 -0500
Subject: Team3S: New Guy Needs Help
Hi All
I have just come into a 93 Stealth ES. Just before I got it a 4 cam
24
valve motor was put in instead of the stock 2 cam 12 valve. The guy
had
a hell of a time and I have some peculiar problems. It runs OK
but I
see a vacuum hose attached to the throttle body that goes no where.
Close to it on the fire wall is another hose that goes no where and
is
attached on one end to a plastic "valve looking " thing. Can
anyone
shed light on this or e-mail me a link to a site with vacuum
diagrams?
Ted
93 Stealth ES with guts
P.S. The car has an automatic trans.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 17:54:21 +0100
Subject: RE: Team3S: New Guy Needs Help
The best way to figure out if everything is ok or what the non-attached
hoses
Good luck
Roger G.
93 & 96 3000GT TT
>
>Hi All
>
>I have just come into a 93 Stealth ES. Just before I got it a 4
cam 24
>valve motor was put in instead of the stock 2 cam 12 valve. The
guy had
>a hell of a time and I have some peculiar problems. It runs
OK but I
>see a vacuum hose attached to the throttle body that goes no
where.
>Close to it on the fire wall is another hose that goes no where and
is
>attached on one end to a plastic "valve looking " thing.
Can anyone
>shed light on this or e-mail me a link to a site with vacuum
diagrams?
>
>Ted
>93 Stealth ES with guts
>
>P.S. The car has an automatic trans.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 12:19:56 -0500
Subject: Re: Team3S: New Guy Needs Help
Did the 93 ES come with a SOHC? My girl's ES has the 222 DOHC.
Ken Stanton
91 Stealth TT & 92 Stealth ES (hers)
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 17:39:52 -0000
Subject: Team3S: Re: Rebuilding StopTech Calipers
I can't wait to get mine, either; Supercar Engineering has almost
finished
my custom four-corner kit! Here are the rebuild prices from the
StopTech
page:
CALIPER REBUILD KITS - SEALS AND DUST BOOTS
Includes 4 pressure seals and 4 dust boots. 2 of each size; rebuilds
one
caliper.
89-100-2828 Seals and Dust Boots 28 28 $50
89-100-3034 Seals and Dust Boots 30 34 $50
89-100-3438 Seals and Dust Boots 34 38 $50
89-100-3440 Seals and Dust Boots 34 40 $50
89-100-3640 Seals and Dust Boots 36 40 $50
89-100-4044 Seals and Dust Boots 40 44 $50
89-100-4244 Seals and Dust Boots 42 44 $50
Please call Seals and Dust Boots for StopTech ST-40, Viper stock,
Brembo
F40/ F50 and Porsche 993 stock front. $32
CALIPER REBUILD KITS - PISTONS, SEALS AND DUST BOOTS
Includes 4 pistons, 4 pressure seals and 4 dust boots. 2 of each
size;
rebuilds one caliper.
89-110-2828 Pistons, Seals and Dust Boots 28 28 $180
89-110-3034 Pistons, Seals and Dust Boots 30 34 $150
89-110-3438 Pistons, Seals and Dust Boots 34 38 $150
89-110-3440 Pistons, Seals and Dust Boots 34 40 $150
89-110-3640 Pistons, Seals and Dust Boots 36 40 $150
89-110-4044
Pistons, Seals and Dust Boots Also fits Viper stock, Brembo F40/
F50 and Porsche 993 stock front. 40 44 $150
89-110-4244 Pistons, Seals and Dust Boots 42 44 $150
- - --
Jim Matthews - Yorkshire, England
*** Team3S, 3SI #0030, GTOUK #155
***
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R Mk1 (1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer, Blitz Super Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery
Redline synth fluids (trans & xfer= MT-90, diff= SPHvy)
PF cryoed rotors, R4S pads, SS lines w/SBs, red calipers
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171 mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 367 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 17:43:26 -0000
Subject: Team3S: RE: Rebuilding StopTech brakes
Oops, I forgot to include the replacement rotor prices:
31-A26-1101 1 AeroRotor (World Challenge) Left Slotted 322 28 $225
31-A26-1102 1 AeroRotor (World Challenge) Right Slotted 322 28 $225
31-326-1001 1 AeroRotor Left Plain 328 28 $185
31-326-1002 1 AeroRotor Right Plain 328 28 $185
31-326-1101 1 AeroRotor Left Slotted 328 28 $185
31-326-1102 1 AeroRotor Right Slotted 328 28 $185
31-326-1201 1 AeroRotor Left Drilled 328 28 $249
31-326-1202 1 AeroRotor Right Drilled 328 28 $249
31-536-1001 1 AeroRotor Left Plain 332 32 $195
31-536-1002 1 AeroRotor Right Plain 332 32 $195
31-536-1101 1 AeroRotor Left Slotted 332 32 $195
31-536-1102 1 AeroRotor Right Slotted 332 32 $195
31-536-1201 1 AeroRotor Left Drilled 332 32 $259
31-536-1202 1 AeroRotor Right Drilled 332 32 $259
31-737-1001 1 AeroRotor Left Plain 355 32 $216
31-737-1002 1 AeroRotor Right Plain 355 32 $216
31-737-1101 1 AeroRotor Left Slotted 355 32 $216
31-737-1102 1 AeroRotor Right Slotted 355 32 $216
31-737-1201 1 AeroRotor Left Drilled 355 32 $270
31-737-1202 1 AeroRotor Right Drilled 355 32 $270
51-933-1101 1 Rotor (Not AeroRotor) Left Slotted 378 32 $360
51-933-1102 1 Rotor (Not AeroRotor) Right Slotted 378 32 $360
Cryo treatment is additional, of course.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 13:02:38 -0500
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: Rebuilding StopTech brakes
I thought we determined that slotted / dimpled / drilled were 'not
worth
much of anything' ???
Ken Stanton
91 Stealth TT
Big cheeky dimples
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 10:44:38 -0800
Subject: RE: Team3S: Oil Pressure - how low is too low ???
> I just installed my Greedy oil pressure gage and I want to
> set the warning light. How low is too low for the oil
> pressure in our cars - crusing vs. idle ?
I set mine at just under 1 bar. I believe the danger zone for our
engines is 11-12psi. Most of the time, my idling oil pressure stays at
15psi or more. Occasionally on a hot day with oil that is approaching 3000
miles of usage, I'll see 13 psi. My idle speed is really close to
700RPM.
When you're above idle speeds, there should be no problem at all with being
anywhere near your warning setting for oil pressure.
Also, I see the same warm oil pressure with 5W30 and 10W30 Mobil1.
- --Erik
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 18:54:19 -0000
Subject: Team3S: RE: solid, slotted, dimpled, drilled (was: Rebuilding
StopTech brakes)
Ken Stanton wrote:
>
> I thought we determined that slotted / dimpled / drilled
> were 'not worth much of anything' ???
We were only partially right: according to that price list, slotting
isn't
worth anything, but drilling is worth $54 - $64 per rotor! ;-)
I don't like the idea of drilling; if I just had to have those cool
looking
holes in my rotors, I'd want them to be cast that way from the start.
The
World Challenge rotors used for my rear brakes only come slotted, so I
opted
for slotted up front to match. If there's a problem, I'm sure
StopTech will
make it right.
- - --
Jim Matthews - Yorkshire, England
*** Team3S, 3SI #0030, GTOUK #155
***
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 11:04:39 -0800
Subject: RE: Team3S: New Guy Needs Help
> I have just come into a 93 Stealth ES. Just before I got it
> a 4 cam 24 valve motor was put in instead of the stock 2 cam
> 12 valve.
Like Ken said, I didn't know that any ES models were made with the SOHC
engine. Who told you that it originally had a SOHC engine in it?
> The guy had a hell of a time and I have some peculiar
> problems. It runs OK but I see a vacuum hose attached
> the throttle body that goes no where.
> Close to it on the fire wall is another hose that goes no
> where and is attached on one end to a plastic
> "valve looking " thing. Can anyone shed light on
this
> or e-mail me a link to a site with vacuum diagrams?
That vacuum hose may be the hose for your fuel pressure regulator.
The OEM setup has a line coming off of the throttle body to the black "valve
looking thing" (FPR solenoid) on the firewall. From there, the output of
the FPR solenoid has a vacuum line that runs to the Fuel Pressure Regulator,
which is at the end of the rear fuel rail.
As far as I know, the FPR solenoid is only used for warm starts, and it
only activates for about 5-10 seconds. That's what I see on my '95 VR-4,
anyway. A differential fuel pressure gauge makes it easy to spot when the
solenoid is open.
- --Erik
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 11:20:22 -0800 (PST)
Subject: RE: Team3S: Oil Pressure - how low is too low ???
OK, so a bar is 14.7 pounds of pressure ?
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2 #356
***************************************