Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth   Tuesday, January 27 2004   Volume 02 : Number 355
Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 13:40:44 -0500
Subject: Team3S: re: 1st Gen driving light replacement
>Do you have to take off all of the plastic shielding under the front of
>car to replace a burned out driving light bulb?  Say it ain't so!
It's been a while since I've done it, but seems to me like I did have to
remove the active aero air dam in order to get access to the screws that
hold the foglight brackets on. The upper screws are a real PITA to get to.
And each complete foglight assembly has to be removed in order to get to
the bulb to replace it. Not a simple quick job. If there's an easier way, I
don't know about it.
Jeff W.
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Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 12:53:07 -0800
From: Mike Gerhard <>
Subject: Team3S: Dip stick Location (twin turbo)
My J-Spec engine is in the car and I'm hooking everything up. I noticed
that the dip stick in the old engine was between the front inter cooler
hose and the engine. It looks like the position on the J-Spec puts the dip
stick in between the front inter cooler hose and the radiator. I'm
wondering where you all observe your dip stick to be located. Right now the
dip stick is half way between these two positions and I'm going to have to
flex it into one position or the other. The question is whether to push it
back toward the engine or pull it out toward the radiator.
- --------------------------------------------------------------
Mike Gerhard           1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4  Pearl White
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Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 17:39:51 -0500
From: bob atkins <>
Subject: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: OT: Need assistance in L.A.
Wish I woulda had my car when I stopped by there (StopTech) Friday.
Looks like I may be out to the left coast again - Feb 10/11 in the Palo Alto
area.  That's not too far to make a Side-Trip to Laguna Seca or Sears Point
(I know - Infineon) out of the question is it?
Any body want to join me on an observation run?
on 1/26/04 11:53 AM, Philip V. Glazatov at
> Is there anyone in the L.A. area who would like to take their VR-4/TT car
> to StopTech in Torrance to watch those guys measure your car and/or test
> fit rotors and calipers on it? They do not really need to do that because I
> can tell them all that they need to know, but this is their business
> practice that they do not want to change.
> Please contact me off-list. Thanks!
> Philip
> --
> To sub:   Email with a body of 'subscribe 3sracers'.
> To unsub: Email with a body of 'unsubscribe 3sracers'
> "Ban low performance drivers, not high performance cars."
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Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 21:55:54 -0500
From: "Sergiy Lyuznyy" <>
Subject: Team3S: First generation lifters improvement?
I'm looking for the way to fix valve lifters ticking.
One known approach is to replace them by second generation. The price votes
As far as I know the only visible difference in between them is bigger oil
hole for second gen..
Question: Will it work - increasing  the first generation lifters oil hole
to the size the second gen. has? If somebody had such experience?
Sergiy Lyuznyy,
Stealth TT, 1994
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Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 00:46:48 -0800
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <>
Subject: Team3S: Repost (1992 VR4 for sale)
Sorry all if you get this email twice. I think my last email may not have
gone out so here it is again.
Long story short, few days ago the car spun a bearing while racing (and
shamelessly beating) a turbo-ed Honda S2000. Given that I have put 3 motors
into the car within the past year, I think I am done with it.
The car is financed and the bank is making me get full insurance on the car
even if I do not drive it. They allow 6 month of layaway insurance every 2
years and I have already used that. Full insurance on the car is over
$200/mo and I pay almost $200/mo in car payments. I think its pretty dumb to
spend $400/mo on a car that I will not be able to drive for some time since
I got laid off last November I no longer have the bank roll to finance
another engine swap right now. As much as it hurts I am forced to sell the
car for the amount that I owe the bank simply to get rid of my $400/mo bill.
Pearl White 1992 3000GT VR4
Asking: $5650
Exterior condition - above average. Good paint, no scratches on car. One
tiny door ding on rear fender (seen only at angle). Dime-sized scratches on
the tips of both mirrors. One small scuff mark on rear bumper that can be
90% buffed out.
Interior - Average. The typical tare on the blister of driver seat. Other
than that everything is good. Brand new shift boot, some minor wear on the
steering wheel.
Engine - JDM engine with 45k miles installed 3000-4000 miles ago. Stock
everything. Never boosted, didn't see propane or any other injection other
than stock. Suspect spun bearing. Certainly NOT a broken rod because all 6
cylinders are still firing. Car makes a bad banging sound when running.
Stock JDM Turbos with 45-50K on them. At the time of install (with the
engine) they were in perfect like-new shape.
K&N Style intake filter installed 2000 mi ago.
Steel Ty-Speed Y-pipe. Using the stock BOV. (note: Car did use the HKS SSBOV
but I will be keeping that).
Gutted pre-cats.
Snake-eyes mod.
Momentary bypass switch allowing the rear wing to be raised/lowered or waved
at will.
BRAND NEW Sumitomo HTR Z II tires with less than 2000 miles on them!
Rims are in poor shape. I got them this way. No dents or problems - they
work great, but a number of scuffs are present. I painted them once 3 years
ago and they looked great but with the recent engine swaps and stuff, the
paint got a few scratches.
Slotted/Vented/Drilled Bembo rotors front and rear.
SPEC Sport Clutch (4puck sprung hub) installed about 6000 miles ago. Car
breaks all 4 wheels even on dry road and when road is wet can burn out
through first and most-way through second gear. Serious power going to the
Battery moved to the trunk with a thick power cable.
Fuel pump relay bypass mod. Battery sitting less than 1ft away from fuel
pump - good 13.5V+ at the pump!
Tranny - This is one are of common problems that I have never had to face
with this car. I was always very nice to it, giving time for the syncros to
shift correctly and double-clutching. Tranny way replaced about 3 years ago
with a new factory one. I might have the receipts. Tranny doesn't leak. In
the past 3 years I have changed the tranny fluid at least 5 times. Inspected
the fluid every time and had no issues.
Transfer case - Has not had the recall done yet, but I changed oil every
time I changed it in the tranny. Everything works great in that department.
Transfer case is using a Kormex Hardened output shaft. At last removal (less
than 3000mi ago) the shaft and the gear inside the tranny showed no wear.
Drive shaft - Passenger side front drive shaft tore a boot recently. A tire
shop quoted me $127 installed for replacement and NAPA quoted $75 for the
part. Given as it recently tore you may be able to take the car to a truck
shop and just have a new boot installed.
Rear O2 sensor needs to be replaced. I have a used spare but have not
installed it.
IAC valve started acting up about a week before the bearing died. Rebuilt
ones cost about $75. I have a spare but I dont know if it is good.
ECS sometimes messes up after the first engine swap. I am sure that the
problem is the infamous front strut cable under the rubber cap. Very easy
fix. This can be easily tested and repaired with a soldering gun or through
getting a new harness cable ($50 dealer and $20 used).
Last 1/4 mile run done on stock boost with street gas clocked in at 13.48sec
Things NOT included with the car:
Jack (I never got one)
Spare (I never got one)
Cargo cover (I never got one)
Exhaust (The downpipe I have on the car is 100 times better and produces
more power than Bob's and will not be made again any time soon, so I am
keeping it. The main-cat and the cat-back do not belong to me and will be
returned to previous owner. The car will come with all exhaust past the O2
housings removed. Exhaust is on the car now so that potential buyers can
start the car without raising the dead. Used stock exhaust setups can be
found for under $300)
Rear seats (I just bought a whole new custom embroidered leather interior
for the car and the rear seats are re-done already. Unfortunately stock
leather had to be cut to be removed so I cannot put it back. Stock rear
seats are very cheap to find, as they are the same on all models and are
always in like-new condition. Installation is a piece of cake and takes 3
easy-to-work-on bolts. Having as I plan to possibly one day own another 3/S,
I cannot give away the brand new custom leather I just bought)
I have honestly listed all the issues that I know of with the car (and
believe me, there is almost no chance that there are issues I do not know
about). If you got questions, please email.
I will take serious offers on the car, but I do owe a fair chunk to the bank
on the car so I will not let it go for much less than stated price.
Miles: 178,000 on the car. Under 45,000 on tranny. Under 50,000 on engine.
Car located in South Seattle, WA
Tyson Varosyan
Technical Manager, Uptime Technical Solutions LLC.
206-715-TECH (8324)
Tyson Varosyan
Technical Manager, Uptime Technical Solutions LLC.
206-715-TECH (8324)
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Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 07:25:52 -0500
From: "The Furmans" <>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Group Buy on TEIN & JIC Suspensions
Tommy and the rest of the list that pricing changed slightly I am
sending a link to the thread that is going on at the forum,
as you can see from the edit to my original post and the thread
pricing for the TEIN's improved a bit.....
Thanks all
Russ F
93 VR-4 Garrett GT30R's and a few other things
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Williams, Tommy F" <>
To: "The Furmans" <>; "Team 3S Email Distribution
List" <>
Sent: Monday, January 26, 2004 8:08 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Group Buy on TEIN & JIC Suspensions
> Doesn't sound like that big a deal to me since I just got my TEIN
Flex system delivered last week second day air from the west coast to
New York for $1379.00.
> I bought my suspension system from Alex Polonsky at He would love to do a group by for our
cars and has offered. He basically absorbed the additional shipping
cost to get me the system on the date promised.
> Great customer service......
> Tommy
> 96'VR4
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Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 10:34:09 -0500
From: Marc Jonathan Jacobs <>
Subject: Team3S: Re: R-12 AC alternatives
You can still find R-12 out there.  The web is a wonderful resource.
Unfortunately it is a tad expensive.  If you just want to top it off, it isn't
so bad, but it sounds like Gizmo needs a full charge.  There are cheaper
alternatives like HC-12 and stuff that are 100% compatible.  Some cool worse,
some cool better - depends on what you want to pay and what climate you live in.
Here are a few links to follow for those interested.  I was wanting to fix my
'86 Volkswagen Golf last year and did a bunch of research.  I found enough to
fill my system a few times for under $100 and without converting anything but
the fill valves (which is required - same as a catalytic converter).  (Canada)
Feel free to ask me questions off list.
- --
Marc J. Jacobs          '94 Blue VR-4
xDSL Hardware Development
Alcatel, USA     (919) 850-6386
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Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 11:12:04 -0500
Subject: Team3S: A/C mod ideas
With all the talk about air conditioning cooling better or worse, I
realized, I really do not need it to the full extend of its cooling
capabilities. I live in Michigan and I do need it on some occasions, but
even then it is never on "Full" and I even often balance it with the heater
at the same time (I have a cheap '95+ TT manual controller) to make it
So, with this in mind, and with the idea that I could use some more air
flow to the radiator, there are a few of options that I thought of:
a) Cut the A/C condenser in half. Downsize it!
b) Move it under the car and install it flat, Formula car radiator style.
c) If I install a FMIC, then maybe I could find a more compact A/C
condenser from another car and install it in the right wheel well that
otherwise would be empty.
Possibilities abundant! Whaddaya guys think?
***  Info:  ***
Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 17:53:46 +0000
Subject: Re: Team3S: A/C mod ideas
Well it seems like you have some good ideas for relocation, but I think it might be a bit too much work just to obtain some more airflow to the radiator.  If you aren't overheating (and a proper working 3S shouldn't) then I don't see any gain to the extra airflow. 
Anway, I live in the desert so I need as much cold air as I can get
- --
Gabe Simoes
1992 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin Turbo
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Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 11:04:15 -0800
From: Mike Gerhard <>
Subject: Team3S: '91 VR4 Saner Front Sway Bar experiences
I'm wondering if anyone out there has a 1991 VR4 and has upgraded the front
sway bar with the Saner sway bar. I've noticed that my OEM bar and the
Saner bar differ, mostly at the ends. I have yet to install mine and I'm
looking for any insights from someone who has installed this upgrade on
their '91.
- --------------------------------------------------------------
Mike Gerhard           1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4  Pearl White
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2 #355