Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth   Monday, January 26 2004   Volume 02 : Number 354
 
 
 
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Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 11:53:16 -0500
 
From: Scott <scott@mycruiseoutlet.com>
 
Subject: Team3S: Wheel Info and Results
 
 
 
My thanks to the list for offering guidance on wheels to purchase.
 
 
 
After a month of research, I've taken the plunge and ordered Enkei RPO2Js.
 
Although there is a "plethora" of wheels out there, my choices boiled down
 
to these:
 
 
 
      BRAND / MODEL        SIZE     WEIGHT   COST(ea)    ISSUES
 
 
 
 1. Volk CE28N            18x8.5              $500       Cost
 
 2. Volk TE37             18x9.0              $550       Cost
 
 3. Black Racing Pro N1   18x9.0    22.1#     $245       Weight
 
 4. Enkei CP1             18x9.0    24.0#     $200       Weight
 
 5. Enkei RPF1            18x8.5    18.3#     $340       Style
 
 6. Enkei RC5             18x8.5    20.5#     $590       Cost
 
 7. Enkei RPO2J           18x9.0    19.9#     $295       Picked
 
 8. 5 Zigen FN01 RC       18x8.5    17.0#     $320       Quality
 
 9. OZ Superleggera       18x9.0    19.6#     $480       Cost
 
10. OZ Superleggera III   18x9.0              $780       Cost
 
11. SSR GT3               18x9.0              $539       Cost
 
12. SSR GT1               18x9.0    19.5#     $409       Style
 
13. Rev Boost             18x8.5    18.8#     $200       Unknown
 
14. Buddy Club P1 QF      18x9.0    14.8#     $900       Cost
 
 
 
Bonus:  light weight lug nuts for all 4 wheels were $30 from Enkei
 
 
 
I picked the Enkei because of the weight for the price and I liked the
 
style.  If anyone wants additional details, feel free to email me
 
 
 
Scott
 
95 VR4
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
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Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 09:58:34 -0800
 
From: bslade@shaw.ca
 
Subject: Team3S: Windshield fogging in Winter
 
 
 
Hi there,
 
I had my air-conditioning converted and recharged last summer.
 
Now that winter is in full swing, everytime I start the car while I'm out,
 
the windows immediately fog up and then I have to wait to un-fog using the
 
defogger.......
 
(Cold & humid/damp weather in Vancouver).
 
Is there a 'simple' way to disable the air-conditioning during winter?
 
 
 
I remember a connector being disconnected in the engine compartment
 
that disconnected the compressor (because the air-con was empty anyways).
 
Would this be a valid method of disabling it and just have the heat working?
 
 
 
Thanks,
 
Bob
 
93 Stealth R/T NA
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
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Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 11:08:41 -0700
 
From: "Trevor James" <trevorlj@cox.net>
 
Subject: Re: Team3S: Wheel Info and Results
 
 
 
> Buddy Club P1 QF 18 x 9 14.8 lbs $900 Cost
 
 
 
Whoa...where have you been shopping at? You should be able to get them for
 
$620/ea if you shop around.
 
 
 
Trevor
 
96 R/T TT
 
 
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
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Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 13:12:39 -0500
 
From: "Dan Labonte" <danlabonte@cox.net>
 
Subject: Re: Team3S: Windshield fogging in Winter
 
 
 
Actually if you run the AC the windows will defog faster then using defrost.
 
It will reduce the humidity of the air.  Also good to run AC once and a
 
while in winter to keep it charged.
 
 
 
Dan Labonte
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
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Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 16:53:29 -0500
 
From: "Bob G" <Rguirlinger@cfl.rr.com>
 
Subject: Team3S: 1st Gen driving light replacement
 
 
 
Do you have to take off all of the plastic shielding under the front of the
 
car to replace a burned out driving light bulb?  Say it ain't so!
 
 
 
Bob Guirlinger
 
92 VR-4
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
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Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 14:41:18 -0800
 
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
 
Subject: Team3S: Propeller Shaft U-Joint Condition
 
 
 
I'd like to get some input on the current condition of the rear u-joint of the propeller shaft from my VR-4.  I'm wondering if it should be replaced, or if its behavior is typical/normal for our driveshafts.
 
 
 
I am currently noticing a slight vibration coming from the chassis (I feel it more in the seat than in the steering wheel) when the car is being driven such that it's right between engine-braking and having the engine driving the car.  A common example is driving down a smooth road with a slight downward grade, such that to maintain my speed, I'm giving it just a tiny bit of throttle.  Under these conditions it seems that the driveline is just barely loaded, and alternating between forward and reverse loading.  The vibration is similar to what you get if you put the car in 4th gear at 20mph and floor it, but much less severe.
 
 
 
Suspecting my propeller shaft carrier bearings, I pulled the entire driveshaft off and inspected the carrier bearings and the u-joints.  The bearings seem ok - there doesn't seem to be any play in the bearings themselves, and the rubber surround is not torn or too soft.  The center u-joint seems fine, and the front one moves in both directions with little resistance. 
 
 
 
The rear u-joint, however, is different.  It moves freely in one direction, but in the other direction, it has significantly more resistance (not terrible, though), and it wants to stop in the middle.  I'm guessing that the bearing in the u-joint is notched somehow.  The best way I can describe how the joint moves is that it's similar to the headlight switch that has the intermediate position for the parking lights.  If you move the joint quickly from end to end, you feel a slight bump in the middle, but the joint doesn't stick.  If you move the joint slowly, with less force, the joint sticks in the middle, much like the headlight switch will stick at the parking light position.
 
 
 
Is this normal/typical for our propeller shafts?  If not, is this likely the cause of my vibration?  The manual says that the u-joints should move freely in all directions, so I'm assuming this is not normal.
 
 
 
To further illustrate the point, here is a video of the joint in motion:
 
 
 
http://www.team3s.com/~egross/Temp/DSProbLow.wmv (700k)
 
http://www.team3s.com/~egross/Temp/DSProb.wmv    (4668k)
 
 
 
What's your assessment?  Do I need a new u-joint?  I'm thinking, "yes," but I don't want to spend a whole bunch of money if this is somehow typical of our propeller shafts.
 
 
 
Thanks,
 
- --Erik
 
'95 VR-4  www.team3s.com/~egross
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
------------------------------
 
 
 
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 18:23:08 -0500
 
From: <eire1274@cox.net>
 
Subject: Team3S: "Trunk" dimensions
 
 
 
I'm curious if anyone knows of a reasonable schematic of the hatch "trunk" space behind the rear seats available on-line.  I'm starting to draw out plans for a new audio component/subwoofer system.  I was going to go out and measure, but it is cold, icy, nasty today, and my garage is not heated!  (Yes... I'm a wuss)
 
 
 
If this is in the archives, I can't find it, so I apologize if I'm digging up old info.
 
 
 
Nick (93 VR-4, I swear I'll finish it this spring!)
 
 
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
------------------------------
 
 
 
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 18:41:10 -0500
 
From: <eire1274@cox.net>
 
Subject: Re: Re: Team3S: "Trunk" dimensions
 
 
 
I'm looking more for a layout schematic with measurements, angles of corners, and depths.  I want to visually lay out the enclosures and amplifier/power boards in CorelDRAW so I can play with placements before I actually try to build anything.
 
 
 
Thanks, though.
 
 
 
Nick
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
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Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 17:01:59 -0800
 
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@cox.net>
 
Subject: Re: Team3S: Propeller Shaft U-Joint Condition
 
 
 
Eric --- below is a copy of an email I sent a few weeks ago about the same type of problem.
 
One was resolved for nothing the other cost $170
 
 
 
        Jim Berry
 
 
 
It's important to note that you should mark the flanges so the drive shaft can be reassembled
 
the same way it came apart. In addition the spacers on the two bearings are different and
 
should go back in the same locaton.
 
 
 
Be sure to check the action of the U-joints when you have the drive shaft out --- both of the
 
U-joints in mine had a problem with about 65K miles on them. The rear one was the worse
 
of the two and had to be replaced --- $170 at a driveshaft shop. The front one had a notch
 
in it operation but the guy at the shop just set it on vice and rapped the ends of the joint a
 
couple of times to reorient the bearings and move the grease around a little --- the notch was
 
gone when he was done. There is some info on the 3SI.org site that tells how to replace the
 
U-joints yourself --- it requires a press, a hand reamer and a bit of spot welding.
 
 
 
I just finished mine and you can almost get the bearings off by hand but you will need a puller
 
to break it loose then just pull it off by hand.
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
------------------------------
 
 
 
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 18:49:59 -0800 (PST)
 
From: Bret Duvall <teeminus@yahoo.com>
 
Subject: Team3S: Lowering Springs on a VR4
 
 
 
Anybody have any experience with lowering springs on a
 
VR4, especially with the ECS.  I just got some new
 
18's and want to shorten the gap in the tire well.  I
 
know that a nice new coilover set would be the best...
 
but I really don't race or ever intend to.  I've heard
 
lots of pros and cons about going with just springs on
 
the stock shocks, but I want to know if anybody has
 
had any complications, or just regrets ever doing it.
 
Any brand recommendations, I'm looking at the Teins or
 
the eibachs.
 
 
 
Thanks
 
 
 
Bret
 
'93 VR4
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
------------------------------
 
 
 
Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 08:08:05 -0500
 
From: "Williams, Tommy F" <WilliamsTF@bernstein.com>
 
Subject: RE: Team3S: Group Buy on TEIN & JIC Suspensions
 
 
 
Doesn't sound like that big a deal to me since I just got my TEIN Flex system delivered last week second day air from the west coast to New York for $1379.00.
 
I bought my suspension system from Alex Polonsky at http://www.prostreetonline.com. He would love to do a group by for our cars and has offered. He basically absorbed the additional shipping cost to get me the system on the date promised.
 
 
 
Great customer service......
 
 
 
Tommy
 
96'VR4
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
------------------------------
 
 
 
Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 08:01:14 -0800
 
From: Mike Gerhard <gerhard1@llnl.gov>
 
Subject: Team3S: Front Saner Sway Bar
 
 
 
I am getting ready to install my Saner front sway bar (purchased from 3SX)
 
in my '91 VR4. I set it side by side with the old bar and noticed that it
 
is 2 inches shorter tip to tip and about 1/2 inch shorter from the back of
 
the bar to the eye holes. Also, the tips have a different angle than the
 
original. I'm wondering if this is what any of you have observed.
 
 
 
Also, the new end links look like they may have a preferred orientation as
 
one end has a socket head bolt, the other end has a regular head bolt, and
 
the whole link can be extended and locked down with a nut.
 
 
 
I'm thinking that perhaps the old bar was on the outside of the link and
 
the new bar is perhaps on the inside of the link (because it is shorter).
 
Also, I'm guessing that the hex head bolt end probably attaches to the A
 
frame and the socket head end of the link attaches to the sway bar (because
 
that is the end that extends).
 
 
 
Any and all tips would be helpful.
 
 
 
- --------------------------------------------------------------
 
Mike Gerhard           1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4  Pearl White
 
 
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
------------------------------
 
 
 
Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 10:19:26 -0600
 
From: "merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
 
Subject: Team3S: Rebuilding Porsche calipers
 
 
 
I've put it off long enough.
 
 
 
Gotta get the piston seals replaced in my Porsche 993 Big Red calipers.
 
They are oozing, and I am losing fluid every time I drive it.
 
 
 
All the calipers need (I think) are new piston seals. I think I burnt out
 
the old ones. I've been picking pieces of seals out of the calipers every
 
time I change pads. The problem has been in finding parts. I have half the
 
parts I need to rebuild two calipers, but not enough to do one.
 
 
 
I found a place on the Internet that will rebuild them for $300 plus
 
shipping. Yowzer!
 
 
 
Whaddaya think? A Porsche dealer? A brake service? Any ideas? Anybody on
 
the list handle Porsche brakes?
 
 
 
Rich/slow old poop/94 VR4 w/Big Reds
 
 
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
------------------------------
 
 
 
Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 08:23:27 -0800
 
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
 
Subject: RE: Team3S: Front Saner Sway Bar
 
 
 
Hi Michael,
 
        Your description of the bar sounds a little different than the one I received - you might want to check it against the picture on my website.  The following page also contains installation instructions:
 
 
 
http://www.team3s.com/~egross/3S/Mods/TT/FSwB/index.html
 
 
 
- --Erik
 
'95 VR-4  www.team3s.com/~egross
 
 
 
 
 
> I am getting ready to install my Saner front sway bar
 
> (purchased from 3SX) in my '91 VR4. I set it side by
 
> side with the old bar and noticed that it
 
> is 2 inches shorter tip to tip and about 1/2 inch shorter
 
> from the back of the bar to the eye holes. Also, the
 
> tips have a different angle than the original. I'm
 
> wondering if this is what any of you have observed.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
------------------------------
 
 
 
Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 11:47:28 -0500
 
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <philip@supercar-engineering.com>
 
Subject: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Rebuilding Porsche calipers
 
 
 
Send'em to me. That will be my second Porsche rebuild.
 
 
 
Philip
 
http://supercar-engineering.com
 
 
 
 
 
At 11:19 AM 1/26/2004, merritt@cedar-rapids.net wrote:
 
>I've put it off long enough.
 
>
 
>Gotta get the piston seals replaced in my Porsche 993 Big Red calipers.
 
>They are oozing, and I am losing fluid every time I drive it.
 
>
 
>All the calipers need (I think) are new piston seals. I think I burnt out
 
>the old ones. I've been picking pieces of seals out of the calipers every
 
>time I change pads. The problem has been in finding parts. I have half the
 
>parts I need to rebuild two calipers, but not enough to do one.
 
>
 
>I found a place on the Internet that will rebuild them for $300 plus
 
>shipping. Yowzer!
 
>
 
>Whaddaya think? A Porsche dealer? A brake service? Any ideas? Anybody on
 
>the list handle Porsche brakes?
 
>
 
>Rich/slow old poop/94 VR4 w/Big Reds
 
>
 
>
 
>--
 
>To sub:   Email majordomo@speedtoys.com with a body of 'subscribe 3sracers'.
 
>To unsub: Email majordomo@speedtoys.com with a body of 'unsubscribe 3sracers'
 
>"Ban low performance drivers, not high performance cars."
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
------------------------------
 
 
 
Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 11:53:33 -0500
 
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <philip@supercar-engineering.com>
 
Subject: Team3S: OT: Need assistance in L.A.
 
 
 
Is there anyone in the L.A. area who would like to take their VR-4/TT car
 
to StopTech in Torrance to watch those guys measure your car and/or test
 
fit rotors and calipers on it? They do not really need to do that because I
 
can tell them all that they need to know, but this is their business
 
practice that they do not want to change.
 
 
 
Please contact me off-list. Thanks!
 
 
 
Philip
 
http://supercar-engineering.com
 
 
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
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Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 09:37:03 -0800 (PST)
 
From: davis2005@canada.com
 
Subject: Team3S: Mirrors
 
 
 
Hi everyone. It has come to my attention that my
 
mirrors aren't excately the same on each side. I have
 
looked at other stealths and they appear the same. Does
 
anyone know if this is true? Does anyone know why dodge
 
would do that? Thanks
 
                       Jeff Davis
 
                        94 Dodge Stealth rt tt
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2 #354
 
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