Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Monday, January 26
2004 Volume 02 : Number 354
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Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 11:53:16 -0500
Subject: Team3S: Wheel Info and Results
My thanks to the list for offering guidance on wheels to purchase.
After a month of research, I've taken the plunge and ordered Enkei
RPO2Js.
Although there is a "plethora" of wheels out there, my choices boiled
down
to these:
BRAND /
MODEL SIZE
WEIGHT COST(ea) ISSUES
1. Volk
CE28N
18x8.5
$500 Cost
2. Volk
TE37
18x9.0
$550 Cost
3. Black Racing Pro N1 18x9.0
22.1# $245
Weight
4. Enkei
CP1
18x9.0 24.0#
$200 Weight
5. Enkei
RPF1
18x8.5 18.3#
$340 Style
6. Enkei
RC5
18x8.5 20.5#
$590 Cost
7. Enkei
RPO2J
18x9.0 19.9#
$295 Picked
8. 5 Zigen FN01 RC
18x8.5 17.0#
$320 Quality
9. OZ Superleggera
18x9.0 19.6#
$480 Cost
10. OZ Superleggera III
18x9.0
$780 Cost
11. SSR
GT3
18x9.0
$539 Cost
12. SSR
GT1
18x9.0 19.5#
$409 Style
13. Rev
Boost
18x8.5 18.8#
$200 Unknown
14. Buddy Club P1 QF 18x9.0
14.8# $900
Cost
Bonus: light weight lug nuts for all 4 wheels were $30 from
Enkei
I picked the Enkei because of the weight for the price and I liked
the
style. If anyone wants additional details, feel free to email
me
Scott
95 VR4
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Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 09:58:34 -0800
Subject: Team3S: Windshield fogging in Winter
Hi there,
I had my air-conditioning converted and recharged last summer.
Now that winter is in full swing, everytime I start the car while I'm
out,
the windows immediately fog up and then I have to wait to un-fog using
the
defogger.......
(Cold & humid/damp weather in Vancouver).
Is there a 'simple' way to disable the air-conditioning during
winter?
I remember a connector being disconnected in the engine compartment
that disconnected the compressor (because the air-con was empty
anyways).
Would this be a valid method of disabling it and just have the heat
working?
Thanks,
Bob
93 Stealth R/T NA
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Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 11:08:41 -0700
Subject: Re: Team3S: Wheel Info and Results
> Buddy Club P1 QF 18 x 9 14.8 lbs $900 Cost
Whoa...where have you been shopping at? You should be able to get them
for
$620/ea if you shop around.
Trevor
96 R/T TT
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Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 13:12:39 -0500
Subject: Re: Team3S: Windshield fogging in Winter
Actually if you run the AC the windows will defog faster then using
defrost.
It will reduce the humidity of the air. Also good to run AC once and
a
while in winter to keep it charged.
Dan Labonte
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Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 16:53:29 -0500
Subject: Team3S: 1st Gen driving light replacement
Do you have to take off all of the plastic shielding under the front of
the
car to replace a burned out driving light bulb? Say it ain't
so!
Bob Guirlinger
92 VR-4
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Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 14:41:18 -0800
Subject: Team3S: Propeller Shaft U-Joint Condition
I'd like to get some input on the current condition of the rear u-joint of
the propeller shaft from my VR-4. I'm wondering if it should be replaced,
or if its behavior is typical/normal for our driveshafts.
I am currently noticing a slight vibration coming from the chassis (I feel
it more in the seat than in the steering wheel) when the car is being driven
such that it's right between engine-braking and having the engine driving the
car. A common example is driving down a smooth road with a slight downward
grade, such that to maintain my speed, I'm giving it just a tiny bit of
throttle. Under these conditions it seems that the driveline is just
barely loaded, and alternating between forward and reverse loading. The
vibration is similar to what you get if you put the car in 4th gear at 20mph and
floor it, but much less severe.
Suspecting my propeller shaft carrier bearings, I pulled the entire
driveshaft off and inspected the carrier bearings and the u-joints. The
bearings seem ok - there doesn't seem to be any play in the bearings themselves,
and the rubber surround is not torn or too soft. The center u-joint seems
fine, and the front one moves in both directions with little resistance.
The rear u-joint, however, is different. It moves freely in one
direction, but in the other direction, it has significantly more resistance (not
terrible, though), and it wants to stop in the middle. I'm guessing that
the bearing in the u-joint is notched somehow. The best way I can describe
how the joint moves is that it's similar to the headlight switch that has the
intermediate position for the parking lights. If you move the joint
quickly from end to end, you feel a slight bump in the middle, but the joint
doesn't stick. If you move the joint slowly, with less force, the joint
sticks in the middle, much like the headlight switch will stick at the parking
light position.
Is this normal/typical for our propeller shafts? If not, is this
likely the cause of my vibration? The manual says that the u-joints should
move freely in all directions, so I'm assuming this is not normal.
To further illustrate the point, here is a video of the joint in
motion:
What's your assessment? Do I need a new u-joint? I'm thinking,
"yes," but I don't want to spend a whole bunch of money if this is somehow
typical of our propeller shafts.
Thanks,
- --Erik
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Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 18:23:08 -0500
Subject: Team3S: "Trunk" dimensions
I'm curious if anyone knows of a reasonable schematic of the hatch "trunk"
space behind the rear seats available on-line. I'm starting to draw out
plans for a new audio component/subwoofer system. I was going to go out
and measure, but it is cold, icy, nasty today, and my garage is not
heated! (Yes... I'm a wuss)
If this is in the archives, I can't find it, so I apologize if I'm digging
up old info.
Nick (93 VR-4, I swear I'll finish it this spring!)
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Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 18:41:10 -0500
Subject: Re: Re: Team3S: "Trunk" dimensions
I'm looking more for a layout schematic with measurements, angles of
corners, and depths. I want to visually lay out the enclosures and
amplifier/power boards in CorelDRAW so I can play with placements before I
actually try to build anything.
Thanks, though.
Nick
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Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 17:01:59 -0800
Subject: Re: Team3S: Propeller Shaft U-Joint Condition
Eric --- below is a copy of an email I sent a few weeks ago about the same
type of problem.
One was resolved for nothing the other cost $170
Jim Berry
It's important to note that you should mark the flanges so the drive shaft
can be reassembled
the same way it came apart. In addition the spacers on the two bearings are
different and
should go back in the same locaton.
Be sure to check the action of the U-joints when you have the drive shaft
out --- both of the
U-joints in mine had a problem with about 65K miles on them. The rear one
was the worse
of the two and had to be replaced --- $170 at a driveshaft shop. The front
one had a notch
in it operation but the guy at the shop just set it on vice and rapped the
ends of the joint a
couple of times to reorient the bearings and move the grease around a
little --- the notch was
gone when he was done. There is some info on the 3SI.org site that tells
how to replace the
U-joints yourself --- it requires a press, a hand reamer and a bit of spot
welding.
I just finished mine and you can almost get the bearings off by hand but
you will need a puller
to break it loose then just pull it off by hand.
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 18:49:59 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Team3S: Lowering Springs on a VR4
Anybody have any experience with lowering springs on a
VR4, especially with the ECS. I just got some new
18's and want to shorten the gap in the tire well. I
know that a nice new coilover set would be the best...
but I really don't race or ever intend to. I've heard
lots of pros and cons about going with just springs on
the stock shocks, but I want to know if anybody has
had any complications, or just regrets ever doing it.
Any brand recommendations, I'm looking at the Teins or
the eibachs.
Thanks
Bret
'93 VR4
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Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 08:08:05 -0500
Subject: RE: Team3S: Group Buy on TEIN & JIC Suspensions
Doesn't sound like that big a deal to me since I just got my TEIN Flex
system delivered last week second day air from the west coast to New York for
$1379.00.
I bought my suspension system from Alex Polonsky at
http://www.prostreetonline.com. He
would love to do a group by for our cars and has offered. He basically absorbed
the additional shipping cost to get me the system on the date promised.
Great customer service......
Tommy
96'VR4
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Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 08:01:14 -0800
Subject: Team3S: Front Saner Sway Bar
I am getting ready to install my Saner front sway bar (purchased from 3SX)
in my '91 VR4. I set it side by side with the old bar and noticed that it
is 2 inches shorter tip to tip and about 1/2 inch shorter from the back of
the bar to the eye holes. Also, the tips have a different angle than the
original. I'm wondering if this is what any of you have observed.
Also, the new end links look like they may have a preferred orientation as
one end has a socket head bolt, the other end has a regular head bolt, and
the whole link can be extended and locked down with a nut.
I'm thinking that perhaps the old bar was on the outside of the link and
the new bar is perhaps on the inside of the link (because it is shorter).
Also, I'm guessing that the hex head bolt end probably attaches to the A
frame and the socket head end of the link attaches to the sway bar (because
that is the end that extends).
Any and all tips would be helpful.
- --------------------------------------------------------------
Mike Gerhard
1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Pearl White
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Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 10:19:26 -0600
Subject: Team3S: Rebuilding Porsche calipers
I've put it off long enough.
Gotta get the piston seals replaced in my Porsche 993 Big Red
calipers.
They are oozing, and I am losing fluid every time I drive it.
All the calipers need (I think) are new piston seals. I think I burnt
out
the old ones. I've been picking pieces of seals out of the calipers
every
time I change pads. The problem has been in finding parts. I have half
the
parts I need to rebuild two calipers, but not enough to do one.
I found a place on the Internet that will rebuild them for $300 plus
shipping. Yowzer!
Whaddaya think? A Porsche dealer? A brake service? Any ideas? Anybody
on
the list handle Porsche brakes?
Rich/slow old poop/94 VR4 w/Big Reds
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Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 08:23:27 -0800
Subject: RE: Team3S: Front Saner Sway Bar
Hi Michael,
Your description of the bar
sounds a little different than the one I received - you might want to check it
against the picture on my website. The following page also contains
installation instructions:
- --Erik
> I am getting ready to install my Saner front sway bar
> (purchased from 3SX) in my '91 VR4. I set it side by
> side with the old bar and noticed that it
> is 2 inches shorter tip to tip and about 1/2 inch shorter
> from the back of the bar to the eye holes. Also, the
> tips have a different angle than the original. I'm
> wondering if this is what any of you have observed.
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Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 11:47:28 -0500
Subject: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Rebuilding Porsche calipers
Send'em to me. That will be my second Porsche rebuild.
Philip
>I've put it off long enough.
>
>Gotta get the piston seals replaced in my Porsche 993 Big Red
calipers.
>They are oozing, and I am losing fluid every time I drive it.
>
>All the calipers need (I think) are new piston seals. I think I burnt
out
>the old ones. I've been picking pieces of seals out of the calipers
every
>time I change pads. The problem has been in finding parts. I have half
the
>parts I need to rebuild two calipers, but not enough to do one.
>
>I found a place on the Internet that will rebuild them for $300
plus
>shipping. Yowzer!
>
>Whaddaya think? A Porsche dealer? A brake service? Any ideas? Anybody
on
>the list handle Porsche brakes?
>
>Rich/slow old poop/94 VR4 w/Big Reds
>
>
>--
>"Ban low performance drivers, not high performance cars."
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Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 11:53:33 -0500
Subject: Team3S: OT: Need assistance in L.A.
Is there anyone in the L.A. area who would like to take their VR-4/TT car
to StopTech in Torrance to watch those guys measure your car and/or test
fit rotors and calipers on it? They do not really need to do that because I
can tell them all that they need to know, but this is their business
practice that they do not want to change.
Please contact me off-list. Thanks!
Philip
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Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 09:37:03 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Team3S: Mirrors
Hi everyone. It has come to my attention that my
mirrors aren't excately the same on each side. I have
looked at other stealths and they appear the same. Does
anyone know if this is true? Does anyone know why dodge
would do that? Thanks
Jeff Davis
94 Dodge Stealth rt tt
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2 #354
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