Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Sunday, January 25
2004 Volume 02 : Number 353
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 15:19:27 -0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Stock brake pads / Belts question
Pads are a huge tradeoff.
brake better, brake longer..-usually- its pick 1. Id say always,
but
there might be some pad out there that'll brake better than stock and
last
longer than 50-60-70k miles.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 13:27:17 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Stock brake pads / Belts question
> In addition to increased performance, would you say the
>
aftermarket pads last longer than stock?
I can't comment on longevity since I've only had the R4S on there since
last year. However, many performance pads will generate more dust, which
sticks to your wheels and the sides of your car. The dust from the R4S
pads comes off very easily, but it's a bit annoying. I've heard that other
pads are significantly worse, some with corrosive dust.
> The three that stood out to me were (may have been their
advertising):
> ATE Super Blue Brake Fluid (DOT 4) - well suited for
street
> - can go without flush for 3 years (better for
street)
> - color blue makes it easy to
bleed
<snip>
> Thoughts? I am leaning towards the ATE Super Blue
brake
> fluid. Where can I
> get it? Do I want Original ATE Brake
Fluid Super DOT4 or
> another version?
That's what I use for the street and the track at the moment. I have
had no problems. Like someone else mentioned, they make it in a gold color
as well, so you can easily bleed the whole system and know you did it
thoroughly.
I bought my last batch in July, 2002, for $7.95 a liter. That company
now only sells OEM parts, not fluids and such. Try searching on Google for
a place to get it cheap - some places want $16-$20 a liter, and you can easily
find it for half of that.
There are other places that probably have it cheaper. Perhaps Geoff
or Phil or one of our other business members can chime in with
suggestions?
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 14:13:12 -0800
From: Gizmo <
kdmorg@comcast.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Re: Wrong information...Sorry experts.
Hi Folks,
I asked for advice because I did not have the manual yet and
looking
under the hood(actually under the hood) was not somewhere I
generally
look. On the firewall or on a fender or the cross piece where
the
radiator is located. I never thought to look up on/under the hood
itself.
I am a bit of a rookie at this and chose to ask for advice. I can
tear
down a 280Z in a day but the Stealth is something a bit new to me.
(I
drove the Z for 15 years)
The manual says to check with an a/c expert but did outline both
the
R134a and the R-12. I specifically asked NORCO for a receiver that
was
compatible with R-134a. As far as I can see this would not be an
issue
if I use R-134a (since R-12 is illegal now). I was just commenting
that
the '93 Stealth did not always come equiped to use R-134a. I figure
I
can do a retro fit on the rest of the system. I'm replacing
the
expansion valve also and requested it be compatible with R-134a.
Regards,
Keith/Gizmo
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 18:27:17 -0500
From: "Christopher Gerard" <
c.w.gerard@worldnet.att.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 93 3000GT Tranmission Problem
> I have a 1993, 3000GT non-turbo automatic that all of a sudden lost
all
> gears but 3rd and reverse. I guess it is in fail safe
mode. I did a
check
> of the engine codes and came up with 62
which is the induction control
valve
> position sensor. Code
means that there is a VIC servo malfunction. Is
this
> part of
the transmission and is it accessible from the outside?
> Transmission was
replaced 3 years ago with a rebuilt one. Can anyone help
> me with
this problem? Thank you very much.
I experienced the same event several months ago. The transmission
(F4A33)
went in to fail safe due to the 'Transmission Control
Module'
malfunctioning. I believe this device also may be referred to as
the
'Transaxle Control Unit.' It has to be replaced--$335 for a
remanufactured
unit via the DEALER (arg). I guess you could avoid the dealer
and get it
cheaper. I don't even want to know what a brand new unit would
cost.
Chris
91 Stealth ES
------------------------------
There is also a Performance Friction Z-rated brake fluid out there with a
minimum dry boiling point of 570 F.
http://www.performancefriction.com/pages/access.htmPerformance
Friction is a premier US racing brake company, so the fluid
must be good.
Most of their other products are very popular among racers
even though they
are priced several times higher than the competition, so
the fluid must be
good too, else they would not be offering it. I have not
used it myself yet,
but I may give it a try after my AP fluid runs out. The
Performance Friction
fluid is $7.60/quart through me (it's not listed on
the website yet).
Brake pads is an interesting story. Once you find pads that work just the
way you like them to, then you start driving more aggressively and use them
more often, so it is it is hard to compare the pad wear before and after.
For me, pad wear becomes an issue only at the track if a set of pads wears
down in less than 2-3 days, then I am upset. Other than that, most of the
good pads will keep you happy for many years and tens of thousands of miles
on the street, so it becomes less of an issue if you buy street pads that
cost $10 more or less.
A more important issue to consider would be the rotor wear. Rotors cost 4x
times more than the pads, so you do not want to run pads that are not
rotor-friendly.
At 04:27 PM 1/23/2004, Gross, Erik wrote:
>Perhaps Geoff or Phil
or one of our other business members can chime in
>with
suggestions?
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 23:53:28 -0500
From: "The Furmans" <
L.Furman1@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Group Buy on TEIN & JIC Suspensions
Ok so worked out a GB with a local shop that a couple buddies of
mine
own, let me preface this by saying I get NO financial benefit
other
than the fact that if we can meet the requirements for the GB I
can
save a bunch of money on my suspension.
Now onto the details,
The shop handling the GB is Victor Research (
www.victorresearch.com )
and they
are a real performance shop located in CT not just a online
deal.
Buyer pays shipping from East Hartford, CT if you are local you are
more
than welcome to come pick up to save on shipping.
The GB opens on 02/02/04 and closes 02/20/04, payment is due no
later
than 7 P.M. EST on 02/20/04
Payment options are as follows Credit Card, Money Order, Paypal, and
if
you are local to East Hartford CT cash payment in person is also
an
option.
Now onto pricing for this whole thing
Tein Flex is $1370 (EDFC is available as an option for $340 more)
JIC FLT A2 is $1460
To date the cheapest I have seen the Tein's go for is at Options
auto
salon for 1482 and the cheapest I have seen the JIC's go for is
1620
at GT Pro.
Now I am simply running as middle man if you will on this whole deal,
I
will not be handling payments or anything like that but simply
putting the
list with contact information ONLY together and just
keeping tabs on who paid
and then once the deal closes keep folks
updated on status.
very important to note they do not have any of our set ups in stock
so
there will be a 7 business day lead time before they get
the
suspensions into them and the shipping lead time from East Hartford
to
wherever you are at. So at most you should be waiting about 2
weeks
from the date of the close of the GB.
ANY QUESTIONS JUST EMAIL ME ALSO PLEASE KEEP RESPONSE OFF LIST AS NOT
TO
CLUTTER IT UNNECESSARILY
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2004 09:02:40 +0100
From: "canaty" <
canaty@tiscalinet.it>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: Wrong information...Sorry experts.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Gizmo" <
kdmorg@comcast.net>
To: "T3S mailing
list" <
Team3S@team3s.com>
Sent:
Friday, January 23, 2004 11:13 PM
Subject: Team3S: Re: Wrong
information...Sorry experts
HELLO To ALL. I AM An EXPERT FRIGORISTA And CAN GIVE To SOME COUNCIL FOR
ALL
YOU THAT YOU HAVE The PROBLEM TO CHANGE GAS F12(O R12): USING GAS R134A
IT
DOES NOT HAVE TO CHANGE The EXPANSION VALVE BUT IT MUST WASH ALL The
CIRCUIT
WELL And PUT SYNTHETIC OIL IN PLACE OF MINERAL QURLLO. The CIRCUIT
MUST BE
WASHED WITH APPROPRIATE The DETERGENT PERCHE GAS 134A And
INCOMPATIBLE
PRODUCT CHEMICALLY WITH The MINERAL OIL VERY WELL. And ADVISABLE
TO MAKE TO
MAKE THIS JOB FROM ONE SPECIALIST. An OTHER SOLUTION PUO TO BE TO
USE GAS FX
56:CON NOT There THIS GAS And NEED TO MAKE The RETRO-FIT
(WASHING), BUT I DO
NOT KNOW IF YOU And POSSIBLE TO FIND THIS GAS To THEM. I
On MY STHEALTH Of
The 91 STILL PUT R12 PERCHE OF It I HAVE STILL A LOT And
EVEN IF HERE IN
ILLEGAL ITALY And HE IS TO USE IT THAT TO POSSESS IT. IF YOU
WERE IN EUROPE
YOU I COULD HAVE HELPED BUT UNFORTUNATELY WE ARE TOO MUCH
FAR.
I WANT TO USE THIS OCCASION IN ORDER TO ASK IF SOMEONE Of the LIST
POSSESSES
A USED "ECU" BUT WORKING MD159966 FOR MY STEALTH RT PERCHE MINE ARE
ROUTES
the CONDENSERS And the ACID HAS RUINED MANY TRACKS Of the CARD. I HAVE
TRIED
TO REPAIR THEM ALL BUT WHEN I HAVE TRIED IT NOT IT SENDS ME MARKS THEM
ALLE
COILS OF HIGH TENSION QUI IN ITALY THE ECU COSTS 1,000 $$>(1,000 €)
IF
SOMEONE COULD SELL IT TO A GOOD PRICE WHAT WOULD BE ONE MUCH BIG.GRAZIE
To
ALL HELLO FROM BEEN BORN THEM
CIAO
NATALE
CANU
NATALE
ITALY
SARDEGNA
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2004 13:18:16 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Wrong information...Sorry experts.
>> ... since R-12 is illegal now ...
Nonsense. "R-12" (CFC-12 or Freon) is not illegal. It is widely available -
legally. What is illegal is the *production* of CFC-12 (at least offically in
the USA). Read more about this at the link below.
I have heard that Freon is the second most smuggled substance into our
country, right after drugs. God bless the free market and capitalism.
Note: every single 1991-1993 3S model with AC used CFC-12 from the
factory.
2nd Note: Mitsubishi no longers manufacturers, stocks, or sells *new* AC
compressors (model FX105VS) for 1991-1993 models. Read more about this and an
excellent source for rebuilt compressors (Hancock Industries) at my web page
below.
- ---------- Original Message -------------
Subject: Team3S: Re: Wrong
information...Sorry experts.
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 14:13:12 -0800
From:
Gizmo <
kdmorg@comcast.net>
To:
T3S mailing list <
Team3S@team3s.com>
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2004 13:37:22 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Stock brake pads / Belts question
>> Thoughts? I am leaning towards the ATE Super Blue brake
fluid.
>> Where can I get it? Do I want Original ATE Brake Fluid
Super
>> DOT4 or another version?
For more info on brake fluids and specs for over a dozen high-performance
brake fluids, and where to get ATE (not the best brake fluid but an excellent
product at a good price) see my web page below.
I would stay away from the Ford HD and Performance Friction "Z-Rated". Both
of these fluids have reasonable dry boiling points. They are described as "DOT
3" because their wet boiling point does not meet or exceed DOT 4 specs, meaning
it is less than 311ºF (155ºC). These would be fine (especially Ford HD because
of its very low price) for track use where fluid is changed often. However, for
most "street-only" drivers, brake fluid only gets changed annually at best, or
more often every 2 or 3 years or more. Choose a brake fluid that also has a high
wet boiling point (above DOT 5.1 specs) to avoid absorption of water.
Also, DOT 5.1 is sometimes spec'd by a manufacturer for ABS systems. That
is what should always be used in that case. For our cars and our ABS, Mitsu
specs DOT 3 or DOT 4. Any of the high-performance fluids listed on my web page
above (DOT 4 or DOT 5.1) will work fine in our cars. Every single fluid I list
(with the exception of Ford HD) exceeds DOT 5.1 specs. I don't think there is
any real advantage of the lower viscosity DOT 5.1 is there? Though chemically
different, DOT 5.1 and DOT 3 and DOT 4 can be mixed without problems.
- ---------- Original Message -------------
Subject: RE: Team3S: Stock
brake pads / Belts question
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 16:01:24 -0500
(EST)
From: Michael Baldwin <
mbaldwin@alumni.tufts.edu>
To:
"Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2004 10:19:33 -0700
From: "Erik Petterson" <
erik@microworks.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Brake fluid shelf life?
While cleaning out my garage I came accross a case of QuakerState DOT
3
brake fluid, dated 1993.
All of the bottles are still sealed, are they still good?
- -Erik
'94 R/T
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2004 10:22:08 -0800 (PST)
From:
chfmn@webtv.net (Walter Womack)
Subject:
Team3S: Oil cap leak
Thanks for the info guys; Tried buying some oil cap gaskets but
they
were unavailable locally and I didn't want to wait so I bought a
new
cap.Then I called the local Mitsu dealer for a PCV
valve.BIG
mistake.They wanted $29.95 for one,so I went to an import auto
parts
store and got one for $4.50. No more oil leak!
92 RTTT Pearl White
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 01:30:39 -0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Stock brake pads / Belts question
A thinner fluid makes the brake system react faster both on and off.
On Sat, 24 Jan 2004, Jeff Lucius wrote:
> >> Thoughts? I am leaning towards the ATE Super Blue brake
fluid.
> >> Where can I get it? Do I want Original ATE Brake Fluid
Super
> >> DOT4 or another version?
>
> For more info
on brake fluids and specs for over a dozen high-performance brake fluids, and
where to get ATE (not the best brake fluid but an excellent product at a good
price) see my web page below.
>
>
http://www.stealth316.com/2-brakefluid.htm>
> I would stay away from the Ford HD and Performance Friction "Z-Rated".
Both of these fluids have reasonable dry boiling points. They are described as
"DOT 3" because their wet boiling point does not meet or exceed DOT 4 specs,
meaning it is less than 311ºF (155ºC). These would be fine (especially Ford HD
because of its very low price) for track use where fluid is changed often.
However, for most "street-only" drivers, brake fluid only gets changed annually
at best, or more often every 2 or 3 years or more. Choose a brake fluid that
also has a high wet boiling point (above DOT 5.1 specs) to avoid absorption of
water.
>
> Also, DOT 5.1 is sometimes spec'd by a manufacturer for
ABS systems. That is what should always be used in that case. For our cars and
our ABS, Mitsu specs DOT 3 or DOT 4. Any of the high-performance fluids listed
on my web page above (DOT 4 or DOT 5.1) will work fine in our cars. Every single
fluid I list (with the exception of Ford HD) exceeds DOT 5.1 specs. I don't
think there is any real advantage of the lower viscosity DOT 5.1 is there?
Though chemically different, DOT 5.1 and DOT 3 and DOT 4 can be mixed without
problems.
>
> Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/>
> ---------- Original Message -------------
> Subject: RE: Team3S:
Stock brake pads / Belts question
> Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 16:01:24 -0500
(EST)
> From: Michael Baldwin <
mbaldwin@alumni.tufts.edu>
>
To: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
- ---
"If it's in stock, we have it!"
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brake discounter.
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parts for Toyota shipped worldwide.
"If its in stock, we have it!"
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#353
***************************************