Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Saturday, January 17 2004 Volume
02 : Number 347
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Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 19:22:21 -0500
Subject: Team3S: Light Weight Rims
Team
After several days of searching, I am tired of looking at
rims/wheels. I am
looking for some light weight ones that won't break the bank - prefer
the
look of the single piece.
Does anyone on the list have comments, experience or
suggestions?
Scott
95 VR4
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 18:22:59 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: Team3S: Light Weight Rims
Weight or strength..pick 1.
17" or 18"?
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 19:40:26 -0500
Subject: RE: Team3S: Light Weight Rims
Clarification: Light in weight: 18 to 20 lbs but strong enough to be
a
little sporty ( I am not currently racing).
I've looked at Volk, Enkei, BBS, Racing Hart, Centerline . . . any
other
options?
Current rims are the stock ones: 18 x 8.5
Scott
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 18:50:24 -0600 (CST)
Subject: RE: Team3S: Light Weight Rims
Im curious to see what others find. 18-20lbs in 18xanything is
considered
on a hard diet.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 20:09:53 -0500
Subject: Re: Team3S: Light Weight Rims
Actually Geoff and Scott, Enkei RPM-02 come in at 21.5 Lbs in 18/9
flavor. Now while this isnt the 20lbs Scott was looking for
these
wheels are under 310/each as where the brands he has mentioned
typically start @ 500+ each.
Russ F
CT
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 18:28:33 -0700
Subject: Re: Team3S: Light Weight Rims
I'm running Buddy Club P1 QF's...
18x9's are 6.70kg ea (14.8 lbs)
Trevor
96 R/T TT with a couple reliabilty mods
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 20:28:34 -0500
Subject: RE: Team3S: Light Weight Rims
Now wait a minute.
I think the rule is pick Any two, but Only two:
Weight, Strength, Price
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 21:48:48 EST
Subject: Team3S: Rim update/ suspension Q
After what seems like weeks of shopping around, I have
surprised myself
and bought a pair of 18x8 eagle rims for my 97 SL. Thank you all for the
help.
I have also noticed that the car has felt "looser" over
the past few
months. The suspension now bangs and buckles more under hard turning. Squat
and
dive have also been more exaggerated.
After 70,000 miles on New Jersey roads, is it time for a
suspension
upgrade? Will strut tower braces also help the situation? I have been
looking at
the eibach suspension with 1.3 inch drop, along with KYB shocks all from
dynamic
racing. Anyone know a cheaper place to obtain them?
I test drove a Nissan 350Z last week, and what impressed
me was how solid
the car felt when turning. I wish to regain that feeling in my
3000GT.
thanx
Mike
97 SL
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 22:03:58 -0500
Subject: Team3S: RE: Dipstick STUCK
Jeff:
I got my dipstick stuck on my engine rebuild. I installed my oil
pan
with the dipstick installed and smashed the dipstick between the main
bearing cradle and the oil pan. The 4-boly main bearing cradle is
VERY
close the oil pan.
My suggestion is: PULL REALLY FREAKING HARD! It worked for me:)
Worst case you ruin the dipstick and have to remove the oil pan to
get
it out. The only other way to get the dipstick out is to remove the
oil
pan anyways, so you are only gambling with the price of a dipstick.
John Monnin
>Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 14:30:00 -0600
>Subject: Team3S: Dipstick STUCK
>OK....how this was accomplished I have NO idea. My motor's in
the
car...hooked up and ready to go(still gotta do the
>axles...driveshaft....you know....bottom stuff....that'll all be
done
today). Everything looks great except the >dipstick is
stuck. I'm
afraid to pull too hard on it to try to get it out. Anybody else
run
into this? The only >thing I can figure is that it's wedged with
the
oil pan somehow? Any thoughts on solutions? I was going to
loosen >the
oil pan bolts right around that area and tug on it again to see what
happens. What else could it be! (Right?)
>As always, Your thoughts are appreciated.
>- -Feelin like a dipstick over here....
-Jeff
C.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 21:16:17 -0700
Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo and NA 328-355mm StopTech Brake Kits!
A couple replies:
> There is nothing in this price/performance range available for our
cars.
I beg to differ. Your mid line kit "332x32mm for $1,795 is
practically
identical to the TCE kit offered for only $1,129 here:
Road Race Kit) We have successfully fit those brakes on 2nd gen VR4
stock
rims. While fitting that kit, the owner Todd discovered that with
the
aftermarket wheels that the 2nd gen owner also brought along - allow for
a
much bigger kit if desired, something around the size of your 355mm /
14"
kits (stock18's could probably fit the 14" kits too).
Even upgrading to 6 piston narrow bodied calipers the price is still
way
under your discounted price!
Todd @ TCE Also is pretty sure he can make a custom matching rear kit
that
can retain the parking brake and ABS. He doesn't think there is a
need/want
for it, but I'm trying to convince him otherwise. If any of you
are
seriously interested in a rear kit, please give him a call so he
knows
people want it. (Phil and Roger also read last 2 sentences).
also in reply to what -
Roger Gerl wrote:
> >Looks good, well engineered and no cheapo selfmade bracket for
the
> >calipers to mount it on the struts.
I'm hoping that wasn't directed towards the TCE kit that I posted
about
before. First of all, it's not "selfmade" all of his brackets are
ordered
to spec. from a local milling/machine shop, and not just 1 at a time.
Phil's kits are "radial mount" - correct?, that the right term? I've
been
reading about both designs... and just because ferrarri or porsche
or
whoever uses one doesn't mean that it's the best way for everyone.
In the TCE kit there are huge benefits in the "versitility" - meaning
you
have more options in upgrading/changing the brake configuration with the
tab
mount. The radial mount is basically the same thing (it mounts to the
same
place, and instead of a bolt - there is a rod that mounts the
caliper?)
...different design just to sell more products... IMO
> Also a good thing is the increasing size of the inner diameter of
the
hats.
> This is usually a problem where you have an ultra heavy rotor ring
when
> going to 355 mm and a small hat. These rotors do have a larger hat
that
> comes with the larger rotor so the weight is not increased that much
as
> well as there is not so much wasted untouched are on the rotor
ring.
I understand your point BUT - Whatever you want to call it (inner
diameter,
wasted space, hat mount overhang) looking at this page:
in the TCE kit. For a 355mm rotor, they don't use the same size
"inner
diameter" as the smaller rotors, and then add extra diameter on the
outside.... -- and I don't know what other companies do on something
that
big. If you are describing a certain 355mm rotor please inform.
I am no brake expert (have been learning a lot though), but Todd @ TCE
is...
20+ years in the business. The TCE kits are available right now, and
are a
great buy in my opinion. You can custom order pretty much about any
sizes /
options and even ask for the big stuff (I think he is now able to fit 35mm
/
1.38" thick rotors inside stock wheels with some of the new product
line!!!), phone number and email are on the TCE website:
- -Erik
'94 R/T
PS: Like I said before - I'm not his sales rep, and I only started
helping
him on this project to further the options in aftermarket products
for
everyone. I'm just a little "miffed" that you use "nothing in
this
price/performance" for a selling point when I know that both Roger
and
Philip knew about the TCE kits... Obviously you are competitors so
I
understand somewhat. If you guys are waiting around for Stop-Tech
or
Bremsa/Brembo or whoever to offer a rear "bolt on" kit, I am pretty
sure
Todd has it figured out. You might want to work together with him
as
proposed before to get it done.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 20:33:51 -0800
Subject: Re: Team3S: Fidanza aluminum flywheel
> Hello:
> My 92 Stealth R/T is at the shop for some transmission work. While at
it I
was thinking of maybe getting Fidanza aluminum flywheel.
> How much performance increase may I expect from it? (If it matters I
also
have K&N cone filter and 3SX downpipe.)
> I read somewhere that the aluminum flywheel is considered a
controversial
modification (presumably for the same reason as the underdrive pulley is).
Is
this true?
> Thank you.
> Andrei Kryjevski.
- -------------------------->
There is no danger in using an Aluminum flywheel - it's totally
harmless.
You'll notice much faster acceleration response, which will appear to be
a
performance boost (it's not very much). But as helpful as it is
in
accelerating, it is not something that's helpful for a non-turbo when it
comes
to shifting. In fact, if you run track events, you *want* the
heavier
flywheel to keep up your revs under braking and downshifting through
turns. A
lightweight flywheel is an advantage for a turbo, but not for an NT.
According to Rob, owner of RPS clutches, if you've got an NT, don't do it;
if
you've got a turbo, it's a big plus.
FYI..., Buscher makes a *damped* lightweight UDP that is perfectly safe
-
it's the *undamped* UDPs that are a possible problem. I had the
latter - the
3SXPerformance UDP on my Stealth when the engine blew up (for other reasons
-
like no oil), but when I installed the replacement engine, the shop
owner
refused to put it back on, saying that it might have accelerated the
engine
failure. If anyone needs a 3SXP UDP for an SOHC Stealth (mine's a
94), I've
got my (almost brand new) one sitting here that I'll sell for below
cost...
- --Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 23:30:32 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: Team3S: Fidanza aluminum flywheel
> to shifting. In fact, if you run track events, you *want* the
heavier
> flywheel to keep up your revs under braking and downshifting through
turns. A
- ---
Not correct. A lighter flywheel allows for more engine
braking..depending
how far you go..a significant amount more. That adds up to much
less
brake abuse...and MUCH faster outta the hole acceleration.
I cant think of a single instance where a heavier flywheel adds
performance..except in heavy metal stamping processes.
> lightweight flywheel is an advantage for a turbo, but not for an
NT.
> According to Rob, owner of RPS clutches, if you've got an NT, don't do
it; if
> you've got a turbo, it's a big plus.
- ---
I dont understand this. It goes against everything the racing
industry
has known about for nearly 100 years.
Once you have started rolling, or about 1/10th of a second AFTER an
upshift..any physics gain from a larger flywheel is moot.
- ---
"If it's in stock, we have it!"
Team3S/3Si.org Vendor approved brake discounter.
NASA USTCC brake vendor and lead Pro-7 Sponsor.
New OEM parts for Toyota shipped worldwide.
"If its in stock, we have it!"
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 23:23:07 -0600
Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo and NA 328-355mm StopTech Brake Kits!
>Todd @ TCE Also is pretty sure he can make a custom matching rear kit
that
>can retain the parking brake and ABS. He doesn't think there is a
need/want
>for it, but I'm trying to convince him otherwise. If any of you
are
>seriously interested in a rear kit, please give him a call so he
knows
>people want it. (Phil and Roger also read last 2
sentences).
>
I want one!
I've been hearing about rear brake upgrades for two years now, and
the
closest we've ever come to one was the project Jim B abandoned.
I will believe it's possible when I see one. And I'll buy one too,
provided
it doesn't cost a billion dollars.
Rich/slow old poop>
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 23:41:20 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo and NA 328-355mm StopTech Brake Kits!
Really?
Someone send me a rear caliper now!
Does it have to be bling or just work?
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 00:00:02 -0600
Subject: Team3S: Engine braking? Are you nuts?
>Not correct. A lighter flywheel allows for more engine
braking..depending
>how far you go..a significant amount more. That adds up to much
less
>brake abuse...and MUCH faster outta the hole acceleration.
Arghhh!!!! Engine braking? No, no, no!!!
Don't even THINK about engine braking.
Remember the first rule of racing: Brake pads are much, much cheaper than
a
clutch, transmission and engine.
One downshifts whilst approaching a corner to make sure the car is in
the
proper gear to ACCELERATE out of the corner. Never, never, never slow
the
car by downshifting to a lower gear. That is a great way to destroy
expensive bits, like clutches, transmissions and engines.
Rich/slow old poop
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 05:27:05 -0800
Subject: RE: Team3S: Light Weight Rims
GTPro's black racing N1's are light weight, offered in 18x8 and 18x9
I
believe. Kinda hard on the wallet though. $259 a rim.
My .02 cents
Mike Guy
92 Stealth SOHC
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 09:33:21 -0500
Subject: Team3S: Help! Synchro Question
I recall very recently a discussion about whether there's a synchro for
reverse. I thought someone posted a pic showing that there is.
Searching the archives, I can't find it. Can anyone help? Does reverse for
5sp and 6sp have a synchro?
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 09:55:57 -0500
Subject: Re: Team3S: Engine braking? Are you nuts?
Can you expand on this argument? I used engine braking a great deal
when
driving, not -in place of- braking but rather in supplement. I mean,
isn't
that half the reason for having a standard? Oh, and I always rev
match
too...
Ken Stanton
91 Pearl White Stealth TT
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 08:05:57 -0700
Subject: RE: Team3S: Engine braking? Are you nuts?
Ken,
Engine braking is a holdover technique from the days when brakes were
not
reliable or as effective as the are today by a long shot.
Not to say you can't use it but it has become the modern fashion to
use/abuse brakes instead of trannies as they are not only cheaper to
replace
by several orders of magnitude but in most two wheel drive cars (front
or
rear) more effective by far.
In your AWD car this may not be true as far as effectiveness and at
that
point it becomes either a matter of personal taste or personal
finances.
Pete R.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 15:31:50 -0000
Subject: Re: Team3S: Help! Synchro Question
Yes, there is a synchro ring for reverse. You can see a picture of it (for
the 5-spd) on my web page below (along with all the other 5-spd synchros). The
6-spd should be a similar setup. The reverse ring appears to be made out of, or
coated with, a different material than all the other rings.
I am fortunate to be one of the few to have a complete set of factory
complete synchros (cones, rings, hubs, and sleeves) for the 5-spd (inherited
from the unique direct-from-Getrag Germany-purchase many years ago). Now I guess
these could also be purchased from CRS (Oklahoma).
- ----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, January 16, 2004 7:33 AM
Subject: Team3S: Help! Synchro Question
I recall very recently a discussion about whether there's a synchro for
reverse. I thought someone posted a pic showing that there is.
Searching the archives, I can't find it. Can anyone help? Does reverse for
5sp and 6sp have a synchro?
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 10:40:03 -0500
Subject: Team3S: Tein Flex Installation
Who can I trust to install my new suspension in New York (w/o EDFC.)
'96 VR4
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 09:41:10 -0600
Subject: Re: Team3S: Engine braking? Are you nuts?
At 09:55 AM 1/16/2004 -0500, Ken Stanton wrote:
>Can you expand on this argument? I used engine braking a great
deal when
>driving, not -in place of- braking but rather in supplement. I
mean, isn't
>that half the reason for having a standard? Oh, and I always rev
match
>too...
>
You should always be in the proper gear.
Downshifting upon approaching a turn is good, and it helps to slow the
car,
but it should never be used as a braking aid. We all -- me too! -- do
voompa! voompa! downshifts on the street cuz it sounds cool, sounds
racy,
helps the synchros and so on. But we are not really trying to stop the
car,
just slow it down a little. This kind of engine braking application is
just
fine and does no damage to anything.
But on a track, at racing speeds, it is not a good idea to rely upon
engine
braking to slow the car. That's what brakes are for, and they do a
much,
much better job at it than a clutch, transmission and engine. And they
are
a lot less expensive to replace when they wear out.
Besides, with a modern braking system, you are on the brakes for such
a
short period of time, you really don't have time to engine brake. For
example, slowing from 130+ to 70 coming into turn 5 at Road America,
it's
lift, bang on the brakes, downshift from 5th to 4th to 3rd and turn
in.
Just like that! Watch Philip G's video from Speedseekers at Road
America
last October to see how it's done. You don't have time to use the
engine
for braking.
I've followed guys who do voompa! downshifts on the track, and it's
crazy.
Their brake lights come on, then go off while they voompa! downshift,
then
come back on again, then go off for the next downshift, and so on.
It's
like watching a drunken sailor. And, while they are orchestrating
this
ballet l' foot, I close up on them under jes' plain hard braking like
a
rocket ship.
When instructing, I tell my students to forget heel and toeing
(that's
where you use your right foot to simultaneously brake and blip the
throttle). First, that's why God invented synchronizers; i.e., you
don't
REALLY need to voompa! the throttle to downshift. Just hit the
brakes,
push in the clutch, select the next gear down, and let the clutch
out,
doing all your braking and downshifting in a straight line before the
corner. (If possible, I try to arrange it so that my students never have
to
shift down more than one gear before a turn). Second, trying to work
a
complex heel and toe whilst learning how to brake, clip apexes, and so
on
is just too much for the average rookie.
I am reminded of the great Alain Prost (my favorite F1 driver), back in
the
days when F1 cars still had clutches and gear shifts. He would
downshift
all the way from 6th to 2nd without hitting any of the intervening
gears.
His explanation was that he needed to be in 2nd at a particular corner,
and
the brakes do a fine job of stopping the car, so why bother with gears 5,
4
and 3?
Rich/slow old poop
>
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 09:59:16 -0600
Subject: Team3S: Dipstick UN-stuck!
"ENOS! YOU DIPSTICK!"
- -James Best (AKA: Roscoe P. Coltrane)
Hey, thanks for the responses on
my wedged dipstick. John, good
to know I'm not the only one!
With a piece of rope and a
couple of short, sharp, hard tugs,
out it came with a pop! The best I can figure is that the tp
was
outside of the "guide box"on the side of the oil pan when I bolted it
up(although I thought we made a point of making sure it WAS in
there).
Now, it's bent all to hell.....where do I get a new one besides
SATAN?....never had to buy a dipstick before? Anybody got a
spare
laying around?(mail me privately if so...we'll work something out)
SO....lesson learned for
all: When bolting up your oil pan,
take out the dipstick, dipstick!
- -Jeff Crabtree
'91 Stealth R/T TT (3SI
#0499)
2K Jeep TJ Sport
St. Louis, MO
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 10:20:48 -0600
Subject: RE: Team3S: Transmission Leak
wasn't there a recall on the vr4's tranny?
if there is...dealer would be your best bet to get it fixed.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 11:20:06 -0500
Subject: RE: Team3S: Turbo and NA 328-355mm StopTech Brake Kits!
Yes, can't cost a billion dollars,
and Yes, it should have adjustable bias system.
Put me on the interested list.
Kurt
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 11:21:26 -0500
Subject: RE: Team3S: Transmission Leak
There was a recall on the transfer case, not the tranny itself,
AFAIK.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 11:15:02 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Team3S: Re: Engine braking? Are you nuts?
Uhh..ok..y'all are on serious crack.
You'd think theres a reason that serious roadrace clutches weight
about...13lbs..WITH flywheel?
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 11:28:31 -0600
Subject: Team3S: Re: Engine braking? Are you nuts?
>You'd think theres a reason that serious roadrace clutches weight
>about...13lbs..WITH flywheel?
Of course. So they can ACCELERATE faster. Not brake.
Rich
>
>
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 11:34:21 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: Team3S: Engine braking? Are you nuts?
Ok..thats it.
Im gonna go ask some real racers what they think.
;)
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 11:57:49 -0600
Subject: Re: Team3S: Engine braking? Are you nuts?
At 11:34 AM 1/16/2004 -0600, Geoff Mohler wrote:
>Ok..thats it.
>Im gonna go ask some real racers what they think.
>
OK, but don't let it degenerate into another dreary heel-and-toe
debate.
I understand about how rev matching helps in downshifting.
That is not the issue.
The issue is engine braking: good or bad under race (or DE)
conditions?
Rich
>
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 13:03:53 -0500
Subject: RE: Team3S: Engine braking? Are you nuts?
Call me nuts. morning, noon, and night.
Engine braking is almost required for stock calipers to remain
effective on the track. For modified brakes, it is important for
smoothness, and may help cooling.
1. The lower the HP, the more important a lite flywheel is
for performance driving. NA should benefit more than Turbo.
Flywheel inertia is greater percentage of power for NA, and
flywheel inertia is greater percentage of total driveline
inertia.
2. Proper engine braking will never harm a street engine.
Heel and toe is what allows smooth transitions and constant
braking while downshifting. If you see multiple brake lights
they are not doing it right.
Kurt
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 11:55:47 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: Team3S: Engine braking? Are you nuts?
And thats what I asked.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 13:36:42 -0500
Subject: RE: Team3S: Engine braking? Are you nuts?
and may help cooling. --
Let me clarify. I think it helps Engine cooling, ie
higher revs allowing more air flow thru engine,
and more coolant and oil flow.
..and since Merritt does talk about being in a proper gear
(presumably at proper rpm) then maybe it is just a matter of degree,
and not if to use eng braking. Maybe I need to reread his posts.
Kurt
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 14:04:54 -0500
Subject: Re: Team3S: Engine braking? Are you nuts?
> Watch Philip G's video from Speedseekers at Road America
> last October to see how it's done. You don't have time to use the
engine
> for braking.
Wow! I never thought that anyone would be referred to watch my videos
to
"see hoe it's done", LOL!
I do rev matching before I pop the transmission from 5th into 3rd.
Remember, this is not street driving (a comment to new folks who are
following this thread). After you downshift you have to end up at not
idle
but in the "meat" of the powerband, ~4K RPM or so. If I do not rev
match
then shifting into a lower gear will upset the car because the engine
will
have to rev up and reach that 4K from basically idle in a split
second.
I also keep braking while I rev match, I do not just release the brakes
and
shift. That requires heel and toe. I do not shift into 4th when going
from
5th to 3rd, I think it is not smart to blip the throttle, shift into
4th,
then blip it again and shift into 3rd if you can do heel and toe with
one
foot and use the clutch with the other.
There might be other reasons why some racers do that, such as they
might
have an unsynchronized sequential transmissions and they decide to
down
shift without the clutch. Just like on a motorcycle, and I have done
it
myself on a motorcycle. But ever there it upsets the vehicle. So if I
have
to do that on an unsynchronized sequential transmission I finish most of
my
braking in the high gear, then clutch, rev match, release my brake
fully
and then I am ready for a turn. I still keep braking while downshifting.
If
I release the brake that will be coasting without a clutch engaged -
an
unstable condition and a waste of a few split seconds.
I did not address whether you should brake with or without clutch
engaged.
There are only a couple or so cases when you can get away with
clutching
and braking at the same time: cars with electronically controlled
brake
distribution and to a lesser extent AWD cars. In all other cases it
is
better not to touch the clutch and to add the flywheel inertia to the
wheel
inertia and thus reduce the possibility of a sudden wheel lockup.
Additionally, all brakes are designed to be used without the clutch. If
you
disengage the clutch your brake distribution immediately changes. It
could
be for the better of for the worse, depends on a car. The flywheel does
not
help you stop and does not increase your car inertia by much, it just
adds
some inertia to the drive axle(s) and helps the wheels spin smoothly
without a lockup. Braking without the clutch on a FWD car will tend to
lock
up the front wheels. On a RWD cars - the rears. On our cars with a
40/60
central diff - the rears.
Philip
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 14:27:33 -0500
Subject: Re: Team3S: Engine braking? Are you nuts?
Oh yes, and a comment for the newbies. If you are not comfortable with
rev
matching/heel & toe, then do it like you do on the street. Decelerate
and
brake in a high gear. Then downshift before the turn. You probably
should
be at 2-3K rpm after you are done downshifting, just like on the
street,
else without rev matching the engine will rev up like crazy and the
car
will jerk.
Rev matching allows me to be at 4K RPM through the turn instead of
2-3K
rpm. You can practice this technique during your daily driving.
Philip
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 13:57:57 -0600
Subject: Team3S: Outa town for heel and toe
I know this engine braking discussion is going to end up as the
typical
brouhaha, so don't take offense if I don't wade in and start swinging
like
I usually do.
This chief troublemaker 2 (Geoff is #1) is getting out of Dodge for
the
weekend, and going back to civilization (Chicago) for a few days.
I won't be able to insult anyone until Wed.
Rich/slow old poop
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Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 17:44:19 -0500
Subject: Re: 3S-Racers: Re: Team3S: Re:Long Post In defense of
Speedseekers
I'm old but I make up for it with a lack of experience
It just seems to me that
1) it's a big country
2) there are a lot of regional and even local differences between
even
National organizations. What's true in CA - is probably not true in
FL and
probably even different in the mid-west.
Personally, NASA is not very strong here - just getting in to what
looks
like a 2nd year of organization. The SCCA is alive and well in FL and
then
some.
I have done track days with a local outfit called Chin Motorsports (
full-time in car instruction for novices, after segregated run groups in
the
morning, they do run all the groups together. This results in
the
opportunity for several hours of track time in each day for each
driver.
With so much of the staff spread around the track engaged in
instruction,
there is not tolerance for any behavior slightly considered unsafe.
There
are strict graduation requirements from Novice to Solo. On Sundays
they
have segregated advanced and open passing groups - only.
Chin runs events at Moroso, Homestead, Roebling Road and Sebring and
they
are very comfortable, informative and educational for the Novice (ME)
as
well as offering a controlled environment for the advanced/racer.
I also ran with PCA at Road Atlanta and I must say, I came away
without
enough track time and no feeling of having established any rhythm at all
due
to the fact that run group sessions were a scant 20 minutes in
length.
There was barely time to get the tires warm, escape the slower drivers
in
the limited passing areas and get to establishing smoothness.
No one on this board is in any position to judge the safety, quality
of
instruction or the value of any of these experiences besides me - since
none
of you participated in any of these events. I will not offer any
opinion on
whether these events are inferior, as good or better than any event any
of
you participate in. I will tell you, it's just damn nice to get out
and
drive on great tracks and receive good advice on how to still be able
to
drive it home at the end of the day. I have learned a lot. I
have a lot to
learn and I am eager to do so.
WHY MUST WE ARGUE!
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Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 12:25:46 +1300
Subject: Team3S: 1992 3000GT VR4 artwork
Anyone have the 3000GT VR4 ad artwork they could throw my way?
many thanks
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Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 12:35:01 +1300
Subject: Team3S: Fog Light Bulbs
Anyone have a diagram on how to replace the fog light bulbs for a
1992
3000GT VR-4 TT? Want to ensure to follow the right process instead
of
pulling apart what I don't need to or break something doing it wrong
Cheers
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Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 13:49:00 -0000
Subject: Re: Team3S: 1992 3000GT VR4 artwork
I thought Team3S kept a copy. If you can't find it there, I also have it
available in the folder below.
Along with the individual pics, there is an 18MB zip file there that
contains all the images.
You might be disappointed, though. There is no 1992 model there, only
1994-1999 models are drawn.
- ---------- Original Message -------------
Subject: Team3S: 1992 3000GT VR4 artwork
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 12:25:46 +1300
Anyone have the 3000GT VR4 ad artwork they could throw my way?
many thanks
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2 #347
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