Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Thursday, January 15 2004 Volume
02 : Number 346
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Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 17:58:57 -0800
From: Gizmo <
kdmorg@comcast.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Ok, do you think ....
Hi folks,
I've installed the new timing belt (after doing a thorough cleaning of
the area). I have lined up the off car timing marks and the crankshaft
mark at 1 tooth off cclw (5 total). Set the tensioner at 10 N/M.This
brought the crankshaft mark in line. Rotated the engine twice
(crankshaft around twice) and the marks all still lined up. I took a 1
and 1/2 hour break, went back and rotated the engine (crankshaft) 10
more times. All the timing marks were still dead on. Didn't hear any
noise such as valves hitting pistons.
Do you think I can start buttoning up the front of the engine? I'm a
real rookie at this and I can't work on it all at once. I'd hate to have
to tear down the front of the engine later. My fingers don't work well
anymore.
Regards,
Keith/Gizmo
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 02:43:04 -0500
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
philip@supercar-engineering.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Turbo and NA 328-355mm StopTech Brake Kits!
Hi Everyone!
Supercar Engineering is currently in the process of collaboration with
StopTech on the design of brake upgrade systems for all Dodge Stealth and
Mitsubishi 3000GT models.
The unique features of StopTech kits are:
* Tested and designed
specifically for the 3/S cars with caliper pistons
sized to optimize the
brake balance and ABS performance.
* StopTech ST-40 four-piston caliper
utilizes a unique patented bolt-in
bridge, making it three times stiffer
than comparable calipers, which
results in less vibration and noise, and
better pedal feel due to less flexing.
* Superior and unmatched quality!
*
StopTech Patent Pending AeroRotors® are manufactured at QS-9000
registered
facilities. They flow more air than any rotor available, meaning
less brake
fade and longer rotor and pad life.
* StopTech 7075-T6 billet aluminum
AeroHats® are directionally vented for
improved cooling.
* Floating drive
system with a unique Inconel® spring washer anti-rattle
system allows for
rotor expansion due to heat and virtually eliminates
rotor warping.
*
Stainless steel braided brake lines for improved brake control.
* Red or
Black calipers are standard, other colors are available.
* Available with a
widest selection of brake pads.
* Available for all Turbo and NA 3S
models!
- ---------
If you remember, StopTech kits took top three places in the
brake
competition during 2002 Sports Compact Car shootout where a 3/S car
came
second to last. These are great kits and StopTech is really a top-notch
company.
The kits will be available exclusively through Supercar Engineering. I was
asked to advertise discounts only during the product introduction period. I
will not be able to do that later. Here it goes:
3000GT/Stealth NA - 328x28 mm AeroRotors - $1,495. ($200 off
list!)
3000GT/Stealth Turbo - 332x32 mm AeroRotors - $1,795. ($200 off
list!)
3000GT/Stealth Turbo - 355x32 mm AeroRotors - $2,395. ($200 off
list!)
If you want to reserve the pricing I am asking only for a fully refundable
$199 downpayment just to demonstrate your intent to buy. This would help me
and StopTech plan the orders. Please specify which kit and if red or black
color. For turbo kits red and black are standard colors. The NA kits come
standard in black only with colors as an option.
The 332 mm turbo kits fit stock 2nd gen turbo 17" wheels. The 332 mm turbo
kits fit stock 2nd gen turbo 18" wheels. The NA kits will fit either wheel
from the above, the 17" 97-99 SL wheels and probably many other wheels too.
I can check which kit would fit into 1st gen 17" TT wheels if someone is
interested. It is likely to fit most custom wheels too. For custom wheels I
will have templates that you can print, cut out and see if the kit fits
your wheels.
The kits will be available in 6 weeks! Yeah, right, 6 weeks (this is what I
thought). I don't know what to tell you guys but this is what the StopTech
President told me. So I am now taking orders. Email me at
philip@supercar-engineering.com.
My website states payment options (PayPal,
cards, check).
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 10:31:20 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Turbo and NA 328-355mm StopTech Brake Kits!
Looks good, well engineered and no cheapo selfmade bracket for the calipers
to mount it on the struts. Also a good thing is the increasing size of the
inner diameter of the hats. This is usually a problem where you have an
ultra heavy rotor ring when going to 355 mm and a small hat. These rotors
do have a larger hat that comes with the larger rotor so the weight is not
increased that much as well as there is not so much wasted untouched are on
the rotor ring. Damn expensive, there are not even pads included ?? But
good stuff....
I can swear I saw those calipers in the new Brembo flyer (I'm an official
dealer of Bremsa Brake kits who also sell Brembo parts).. but without any
name on it .. it can be one with what you like for brand, Porsche, Brembo,
Audi, AMG and so on COlors are also such vibrant ones like gold,
purple, white (huh ?) and neon colors (pffft).
At 02:43 15.01.2004 -0500, Philip V. Glazatov wrote:
>Hi
Everyone!
>
>Supercar Engineering is currently in the process of
collaboration with
>StopTech on the design of brake upgrade systems for
all Dodge Stealth and
>Mitsubishi 3000GT
models.
>
>http://supercar-engineering.com/images/StopTech-RedGenericBig.jpg
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 11:12:29 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Turbo and NA 328-355mm StopTech Brake Kits!
>> Tested and designed specifically for the 3/S cars with caliper
pistons
>> sized to optimize the brake balance and ABS
performance.
And what size would that be? Are we looking at F40 (38/44) or F50 (40/44)
sizes or another combination?
Also, do you, or Stop Tech, offer a matching upgrade brake kit for the rear
brakes (particularly for '91-'93 models)?
Thanks,
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 08:45:41 -0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Ok, do you think ....
While others are busy arguing about SpeedSeekers, I'll answer your
question, Keith! ;-) If I were you, I'd take one last measurement on
the tensioner rod (make sure the "locking" pin can go in and out easily, and
that the rod protrusion is within spec), and take one last look around to make
sure everything is lined up and that the bolts are all tight, and button -er
up!
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 09:17:39 -0500
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
philip@supercar-engineering.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Turbo and NA 328-355mm StopTech Brake Kits!
A set of Axxis Ultimate pads comes as standard with other pads available.
Everything that is needed is included. The kits are very inexpensive. There
is nothing in this price/performance range available for our cars.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 09:26:41 -0500
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
philip@supercar-engineering.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Turbo and NA 328-355mm StopTech Brake Kits!
The piston sizes are TBD. I have my recommendations but it will be
eventually to StopTech to decide based on the methods that they use.
Getting correct piston sizes in an easy part, StopTech has a wide range of
pistons available in 2 mm increments.
I will have a matching StopTech rear upgrade. A prototype is in the works,
however you will probably not see it listed on the StopTech site in the
future because the expected volumes are not there. It will be a Supercar
Engineering kit, please contact me privately if you are interested in
one.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 14:30:00 -0600
From: "William J. Crabtree" <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Dipstick STUCK
OK....how this was accomplished I have NO idea. My motor's in
the
car...hooked up and ready to go(still gotta do
the
axles...driveshaft....you know....bottom stuff....that'll all be
done
today). Everything looks great except the dipstick is stuck.
I'm
afraid to pull too hard on it to try to get it out. Anybody else
run
into this? The only thing I can figure is that it's wedged with the
oil
pan somehow? Any thoughts on solutions? I was going to loosen
the oil
pan bolts right around that area and tug on it again to see
what
happens. What else could it be! (Right?)
As
always, Your thoughts are appreciated.
- -Feelin like a dipstick
over
here....
-Jeff C.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 15:41:40 -0500
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
philip@supercar-engineering.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Turbo and NA 328-355mm StopTech Brake Kits!
A correction and a couple of additions:
The 332 mm turbo kits fit stock 2nd gen turbo 17" wheels. The 355 mm
(corrected from 332 mm) turbo kits fit stock 2nd gen turbo 18" wheels. The
NA kits will fit either wheel from the above, the 17" 97-99 SL wheels and
probably most other wheels too. I will provide wheel fitting templates upon
request.
Slotted rotors are standard. Plain are available for free. Drilled is a
$100 option.
The kits use standard-shaped Porsche brake pads. Axxis Ultimate are
standard brake pads on all StopTech kits. Other available options are
Carbotech, Hawk, PFC, you name it! Replacement brake pads are
abundant.
For turbo kits red and black calipers are standard colors. The NA kits come
standard in black anodized color with other colors as an option. Optional
colors are $200. Yellow, silver and blue are other colors available.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 12:59:54 -0800 (PST)
From: "A. Kryjevski" <
abk4@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Fidanza aluminum flywheel
Hello:
My 92 Stealth R/T is at the shop for some transmission work. While at it
I
was thinking of maybe getting Fidanza aluminum flywheel.
How much performance increase may I expect from it? (If it matters I
also
have K&N cone filter and 3SX downpipe.)
I read somewhere that the aluminum flywheel is considered a
controversial
modification (presumably for the same reason as the underdrive
pulley is).
Is this true?
Thank you.
Andrei Kryjevski.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 14:57:23 -0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Fidanza aluminum flywheel
No..an underdrive -is- harmful.
A light flywheel is just trickier to drive from a full stop..and
more
likely to fail in odd/minor ways if you massively overheat it.
Flywheel from an engineering POV, is 100% safe.
On Thu, 15 Jan 2004, A. Kryjevski wrote:
> Hello:
>
> My 92 Stealth R/T is at the shop for some
transmission work. While at it I
> was thinking of maybe getting Fidanza
aluminum flywheel.
>
> How much performance increase may I expect
from it? (If it matters I also
> have K&N cone filter and 3SX
downpipe.)
>
> I read somewhere that the aluminum flywheel is
considered a controversial
> modification (presumably for the same reason
as the underdrive pulley is).
> Is this true?
>
> Thank
you.
>
> Andrei Kryjevski.
>
>
> ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
- ---
www.SpeedToys.com: Geoff
Mohler
orders@speedtoys.comTeam3S/3Si.org
Vendor approved brake discounter; also,
parts for Toyota, Audi, BMW,
Mercedes, Porsche, SAAB, Volvo.
Where do you buy YOUR brakes? I can
help...asking is free! :)
"If its in stock, we have it!"
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 13:20:07 -0800
From: Mike Gerhard <
gerhard1@llnl.gov>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Dipstick STUCK
I'm wondering if you removed and replaced the pan.
I have my engine out of the car and my replacement engine on the engine
stand. I'm swapping the pan between the engines because the replacement
engine (used JSPEC) had the pan crunched a bit, bending the oil pickup
screen tube. I noticed that the dip stick rides right down the side of the
pan. I had yet to think of the following until your message. I'm now
planning on removing the dip stick before I re-install the pan. I'm
thinking that some of the RTV gasket seal has mushed out onto the dip stick
and grabbed it. I can think of no other way the dip stick can be stuck by
the pan. Let me know if this strikes a cord with you.
- --------------------------------------------------------------
Mike
Gerhard 1991
Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Pearl White
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 22:41:43 +0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Fidanza aluminum flywheel
No damage of underdrive pulleys nor flywheels have been reported on
our
engines yet. While the theory says it must be harmful it is no problem
on
our cars.
I myself have both in the car. An UDP doesn't give much power if any so
it
is not a mod you can consider. I broke my dampener and went the cheap
way.
As said no problem at all (and not only on mine).
The alu flywheel doesn't make any problem, you don't feel any problem
like
Geoff explained (I didn't knew that goeff has one in his car ...).
My
experience is that the engines seems to be much quicker in response.
No
power gain IMHO (not checked on the dyno) but it accelerates quicker
as
before what really helps to overcome the lag of the 368s.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 15:09:35 -0700
From: "Damien" <
dabinch@actionsd.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Transmission Leak
'93 VR-4, 84K miles. Transmission is leaking bad. I don't
believe I've
driven it with a dry tranny, but it leaks almost empty in about
a week of
modest driving (not driving it anymore). In other words, I
don't think it
has been damaged by driving without oil. I crawled under
the car, but can't
see where it's leaking from. My question is should I
be looking at a
transmission specialty outfit to fix the leak, or a shop that
has had
general repair experience with our cars? Also, what are the
odds that the
leak can be fixed? I figure it is either leaking out the
seam, or out a
seal...either way seems likely to be repairable...right?
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 22:20:27 +0000
From:
mjannusch@comcast.netSubject: Re:
Team3S: Fidanza aluminum flywheel
> No damage of underdrive pulleys nor flywheels have been
reported
> on our engines yet. While the theory says it must be
harmful
> it is no problem on our cars.
I'm not so sure about that yet. Before the UDPs came out for our
cars, there were barely any problems with bearings and such. Now over the
last few years there have been lots more bearing problems reported. I'm
curious what percentage of people who have had bearing issues have also had UDP
pulleys on their cars at some point.
Just a curiosity, nothing I'd consider "hard facts" or whatever.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 17:20:06 -0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Transmission Leak
Sorry to hear about your leak, Damien. I think these trannies are
prone to leaks. In all likelihood, it's the output shaft seal (the one
from the tranny to the transfer case). You can check by dropping the
transfer case.
I would not trust a run of the mill tranny shop.
They'll say they can do it, but the truth is that there are only a few shops
that know anything about these trannies. If you tell us where you are
located, there might be someone on the list that can point you to a good
guy. Otherwise, if you are at all mechanically inclined, you are probably
better off checking it out yourself.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 16:19:31 -0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Fidanza aluminum flywheel
Roger:
I'll take the engineer's opinion over the field observations.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 23:29:29 +0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Fidanza aluminum flywheel / UDP
Matt, this was exactly what I wanted to do and most of I heard of
main
bearing problems did not have an UDP.
Just note that our cars are
getting older and older and there are much more
tranny failures ahead.
The Supras are much more prone to that as well as the Nissan 200SX
are.
Maybe we should start a poll and ask who had bearings problems and
then
later who has an UDP.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 15:32:54 -0700
From: "Damien" <
dabinch@actionsd.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Transmission Leak
I'm in the Phoenix, AZ area...can anyone recommend someone local who
can
repair a leaking VR-4 5speed?
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 23:32:39 +0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Fidanza aluminum flywheel
My first thought too and I worte many stuff aginst UDPs here on the
list
too. I changed my opinion over the years as the field tests have rpoven
that
there must be other aspects that may count for bad bearings ... but as
said,
it doesn't do much if anything and for me it was a much cheaper than
getting
a new dampener (that actually doesn't dampen that much compared to
the one
in my Z28)
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 17:32:43 -0500
From: "Williams, Tommy F" <
WilliamsTF@bernstein.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Fidanza aluminum flywheel
I for one had a UDP on my Stealth R/T. I had the car for 11 years on
the
original engine and when I changed the engine and added a UDP I had
bearings
problems after the first year. Now, with an imported Japanese engine
with
"low" mileage, You expect to get more than a year out of it.........
------------------------------
Having been through a couple of these recently, here's what I suggest.
First, make absolutely sure it's the tranny that's leaking. I guess if
you
are filling it up every week, you probably are already sure. But if
it's
the transfer case that's leaking, you'll feel pretty silly if find
out
after you pull the tranny.
Second, find out if it is leaking internally or from the seam. Do this
by
cleaning the exterior of the trans, then injecting dye into the
tranny
(available at any parts store--just ask, they'll tell you what to
use),
waiting a day or so, and then scanning the exterior with a UV light.
If
it's dripping out between the transfer case and the tranny, then
it's
probably leaking from inside. If it's coming out the seam between the
two
halves of the tranny, that may be fixable from outside (tighten all
the
trans bolts you can find, for example).
If it's leaking from inside, then it is either the output shaft seal or
the
input shaft seal. Both are dirt cheap (cents) but you gotta get to
them.
That means you have to pull the tranny out of there. It is a
monumental
job, but doable if you have some friends, mechanical aptitude,
tools, and a
place to put the car for a couple of weeks. There are plenty of
helpful
instructions available around here. We used them.
The dealer will charge you $800 or so just to pull and replace the
tranny,
so you might want to shop around. Just about any qualified shop can
do it,
and then any qualified tranny shop can replace the seals. They gotta
break
the trans into two halves, and expose the innards to do it. You
probably
want the tranny shop to take a peek inside and see if they can find
any
damage from running low on fluid. If you are near Iowa, I know a guy in
Des
Moines who will do the whole job for a reasonable price (he's done about
10
so far).
If you are going to pull the trans, then you might think about all
the
things your car needs at 84K miles -- clutch ($200 for clutch, PP and
TOB
at rockville Mits), fuel filter, rad hoses, etc. -- and replace all
that
stuff at the same time. You'll get lots of advice around here on what to
do
if that tranny is coming out.
Pulling the tranny yourself is a BITCH, but if I can do it -- with the
help
of my local support group, The Stealth Boys -- so can you.
Rich/slow old poop/been there, done that TWICE
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 16:44:12 -0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Fidanza aluminum flywheel / UDP
None of which polled, are likely to be harmonics engineers either.
------------------------------
I am trying to help a new friend prepare a 92 3000GT to run in One Lap
of
America.
A question has arisen concerning the compatibility of 1st gen and 2nd
gen
brakes. He wants to upgrade his 1st gen to 2nd gen brakes. I say you
have
to install both the calipers and the rotors to make it work. Others say
no.
I bias my opinion on the fact that we attempted to install my old 2nd
gen
calipers on my buddy Jon's 1st gen 3000GT. They bolted up to the strut
just
fine, but they overlapped the 1st gen rotor by a good half inch. To
make
the installation work, we had to install a set of 2nd gen rotors, too.
The rotors are obviously different. The 2nd gen is bigger.
So, this raises the question: Just WHAT is the difference between 1st
and
2nd gen front brakes?
Is it:
The calipers are identical but the mounting points are
different?
The mounting points are identical but the calipers are
different?
I am so confused.
Rich/slow old poop/somebody stop me
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#346
***************************************
