Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Monday, January 5
2004 Volume 02 : Number
337
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 04 Jan 2004 18:04:05 -0800
From: Gizmo <
kdmorg@comcast.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Thanks, I was confused but now I am just befuddled;-)
Timing belt
Guru's
The reason I asked about "counting teeth" is that the FAQ page in
two
different instances of changing the timing belt were very adamant about
"counting teeth, then counting them again, and once more just incase you
couldn't count the first two times" :-\
Now it is suggested that this
is not a good way to do it.... =-O
Would Messers Gross, Lerow, and any
others who contributed to the FAQ
pages concerning the 60K maintenance and
the recently added photo
montage on our website care to address this
discrepancy? :-(
- --
Keith Morgavi
AKA Gizmo
Certified Systems
Professional
PC Systems and Networks.
Des Moines,
WA
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 05 Jan 2004 03:07:13
+0000
From:
mjannusch@comcast.netSubject: Re:
Team3S: Thanks, I was confused but now I am just befuddled;-)
> The
reason I asked about "counting teeth" is that the FAQ page in two
>
different instances of changing the timing belt were very adamant about
>
"counting teeth, then counting them again, and once more just incase you
> couldn't count the first two times" :-\
You can count teeth,
that'll work. However, the only thing that matters after you've got it
looped around everything and tensioned up is that ALL the timing marks align
precisely with their mates, and that the position of the tensioner pulley is
correct.
After you crank it around a few times (do NOT turn the crank
counterclockwise at any time after the belt is on) to double-check that all the
marks line back up, let it sit for about 30 minutes. After waiting, if you
can stick the retaining pin that came with the tensioner back through the holes
in the tensioner body/pin then all is well. If not, your tensioner will
need to be readjusted.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 08:44:31
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: brake fluid low?
The rubber cup expands to fill the void
created as the brake pads wear (normal) or fluid leaks out (abnormal). Push the
rubber cup back into the top and add fluid to the top of the reservior, assuming
there are no air bubbles under the screen in the reservoir.
Chuck
Willis
- -----Original Message-----
From: Dan
[mailto:dahur1@comcast.net]
Sent: Saturday, January 03, 2004 5:39 PM
To:
team3s@team3s.comSubject: Team3S:
brake fluid low?
I happened to look at the brake fluid level in the
master cylinder of my "94
Stealth. The rubber cup is extended down
about 1
inch into the cylinder. Is this normal, or is my fluid low and I
have
to add some and reset the rubber cup?
How high a level should the fluid be?
The owners manual does not say.
Thanks,
Dan
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 09:59:49
-0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Timing belt gurus
The only think I'd like to add is that you need
to let the engine sit for 5 minutes or so after you rotate it to allow (1) the
belt to stretch, and (2) tension to become equalized throughout the belt.
Counting teeth is only important if you don't line up all the timing
marks (to make sure each sprocket is equally "out of time"). Do yourself a
favor, line up all the marks. Otherwise, you will "earn yourself a new
valve job." Your best bet is to line everything up before you take your
old belt off. Be sure, however, that you lock the cam sprockets before you
take the belt off, otherwise they will spring back on you because they are under
tension when the timing marks are aligned.
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Tyson Varosyan
Sent: Sunday,
January 04, 2004 5:01 PM
To: Team3S; Gizmo
Subject: RE: Team3S: Timing
belt gurus
Don't count teeth! That is a very good method to earn
yourself a new valve
job! Line up all 5 marks (4 cams and crank), tighten the
tenssioner, rotate
the engine clockwise 2 times, check all timing again.
Check torque on all
vital bolts. Then rotate another 10 times, check timing
again.
Tyson Varosyan
Technical Manager, Uptime Technical
Solutions LLC.
tyson@up-times.comwww.up-times.com206-715-TECH
(8324)
UpTime/OnTime/AnyTime
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Gizmo
Sent: Sunday, January
04, 2004 1:38 PM
To: T3S mailing list
Subject: Team3S: Timing belt
gurus
Hi folks,
It has taken me 3 weeks to get this far. When
you are "counting teeth"
where are you counting them from? Between where and
where? DOHC NA
- --
Keith Morgavi
AKA Gizmo
Certified Systems
Professional
PC Systems and Networks.
Des Moines, WA
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 09:47:33
-0800 (PST)
From:
vr4glenn@newsguy.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: Timing belt gurus
This is just my opinion, feel free to throw
rocks (or cam sprockets) at me if
you want.
First, let's point out
that the timing belt does it's job by pulling, not
pushing. The crank
pulls from the right (rear of engine) and pushes the belt
to the left (front
of engine). The tensioner is on the left of the engine for
that reason,
that's where the slack goes.
So, you install a timing belt with all the
timing marks aligned and the
correct number of teeth between the 5 geared
components (4 cams, 1 crank).
You turn the crank by hand 2 times and
wait. The pin slips right back into
the tensioner - all is
good.
Now same as above EXCEPT 1 extra tooth of belt is somewhere between
the front
cam (and around the other 3 cams, water pump) and the crankshaft,
this leaves
1 tooth too few between the crank, tensioner, and front
camshaft. You set the
tension, pull the pin, and turn the crank 2
revolutions. What happens? The
extra tooth finds its way past the
crankshaft and gets deposited on the
tensioner side. You wait and the
tensioner moves out to take up the slack,
and the pin can not be
re-inserted. Also one or more components are out of
time by 1
tooth.
And you say to yourself 'The *%^#* belt stretched!'
So, to
answer your question: If you count the teeth and mark the belt, you
are
almost guaranteed to get the belt on right the first time every time.
If
you don't count, you may or may not depending on your skill and
luck.
Another good tip: if you changed the water pump (and you
should) refill the
system with coolant/water before installing the new
belt. This allows you to
check for leaks before it spills on your
pretty new belt.
Glenn
At Mon, 5 Jan 2004 09:59:49 -0500, you
wrote
>The only think I'd like to add is that you need to let the engine
sit for 5
>minutes or so after you rotate it to allow (1) the belt to
stretch, and (2)
>tension to become equalized throughout the
belt.
>
>Counting teeth is only important if you don't line up all
the timing marks (to
>make sure each sprocket is equally "out of
time"). Do yourself a favor, line
>up all the marks.
Otherwise, you will "earn yourself a new valve job." Your
>best bet
is to line everything up before you take your old belt off. Be
sure,
>however, that you lock the cam sprockets before you take the belt
off,
>otherwise they will spring back on you because they are under
tension when the
>timing marks are aligned.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 05 Jan 2004 18:07:53
+0000
From:
mjannusch@comcast.netSubject: RE:
Team3S: Timing belt gurus
> And you say to yourself 'The *%^#* belt
stretched!'
No, you say to yourself: "Damn, I didn't tension the
belt." If you loosely loop the belt over the cam sprockets instead of
keeping the belt taut then you are asking for problems when you rotate the
crank.
Either method will work and get the job done. The key to the
whole thing is attention to detail, making sure the belt is taut all the way
around when setting the tension. It does no good at all to set the
tensioner pulley if there's slack anywhere other than between the crank and
frontmost cam, whether you've counted teeth or not.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT
Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 13:21:54
-0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Caution: OFF TOPIC!
Forgive me in advance for this OT post, but I
just read an article about the new Chrysler ME Four-Twelve and have to talk
about it. Have you guys seen this monster? It is powered by four
turbo chargers and a massive 12-cylinder, 850 horsepower engine. Expected
top speed is 248. For more info, see
http://www.reuters.com/newsArticle.jhtml;jsessionid=BJRP25YV3ZMUMCRBAELCFFA?type=reutersEdge&storyID=4070348.
Of course, it will probably cost $500K or more, I'm sure.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 12:27:37
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Caution: OFF TOPIC!
What sort of gas mileage do you
think it'll get?
Chuck Willis
BTW I didn't see what displacement
the engine has.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 10:35:24
-0800
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Initial crank/cam timing (was: Timing belt gurus)
As long as
we're on the subject of timing belt installation, I've got a
quick question
about timing a new shortblock for the first time.
Based on the
rebuild guide, it looks like I'm supposed to turn the crank
until piston #1
is at TDC, and then line up all the marks. However, I
haven't found a
procedure for ensuring piston #1 is truly at TDC. I got
it as close as
I could by putting a long straw in the spark plug hole,
and watching it move
up and down as I turned the crank. I think I've
got it within a degree
or two, but some kind of a reference mark sure
would make me feel
better.
Also, until the crank pulley is installed and torqued
down, it seems
that the timing gears and the crank can move independently of
one
another. I know there's a tool for keeping the crank pulley in
place
while installing, but what's to keep the crank from spinning a
bit
against the crank pulley while I torque everything down? It SEEMS
like
it ought to stay in place simply from the friction of the crank
pulley
being tightened against it...but again a more secure method would
make
me feel better.
Thanks,
- - Brian Geddes
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of
mjannusch@comcast.netSent: Monday,
January 05, 2004 10:08 AM
To:
team3s@team3s.comSubject: RE: Team3S:
Timing belt gurus
> And you say to yourself 'The *%^#* belt
stretched!'
No, you say to yourself: "Damn, I didn't tension the
belt." If you
loosely loop the belt over the cam sprockets instead of
keeping the belt
taut then you are asking for problems when you rotate the
crank.
Either method will work and get the job done. The key to the
whole
thing is attention to detail, making sure the belt is taut all the
way
around when setting the tension. It does no good at all to set
the
tensioner pulley if there's slack anywhere other than between the
crank
and frontmost cam, whether you've counted teeth or not.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 12:36:47
-0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: brake fluid low?
Beware that if you push in your caliper
pistons on the next fluid
change,,you'll have fluid all over the
place.
1) never top it, just push the piston back in and it'll be
fine when you
add new pads..the fluid goes down as the pads
wear
2) top it, but when you push in the pistons for the new pads,
have the
bleed screw open so you dont make a huge mess.
Pick
either.
On Mon, 5 Jan 2004, Willis, Charles E. wrote:
> The
rubber cup expands to fill the void created as the brake pads wear (normal) or
fluid leaks out (abnormal). Push the rubber cup back into the top and add fluid
to the top of the reservior, assuming there are no air bubbles under the screen
in the reservoir.
>
> Chuck Willis
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Dan [mailto:dahur1@comcast.net]
> Sent:
Saturday, January 03, 2004 5:39 PM
> To:
team3s@team3s.com> Subject: Team3S:
brake fluid low?
>
>
> I happened to look at the brake fluid
level in the master cylinder of my "94
> Stealth. The rubber cup is
extended down
> about 1 inch into the cylinder. Is this normal, or
is my fluid low and I
> have to add some and reset the rubber cup?
>
How high a level should the fluid be? The owners manual does not say.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dan
www.SpeedToys.com: Geoff Mohler
orders@speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 13:45:21
-0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Caution: OFF TOPIC!
Here's the specs from
http://www.autoweek.com/cat_content.mv?port_code=autoweek&cat_code=coverstory&loc_code=&content_code=02120930
(a must read)
ON SALE: Prototype; potential 2006 model
BASE PRICE:
$450,000 (est.)
POWERTRAIN: 5.9-liter, 850-hp, 850-lb-ft V12; rwd,
seven-speed manual
CURB WEIGHT: 2860 pounds
0-60 MPH: 2.9 seconds
(mfr.)
(sorry admins, my last one!)
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Willis, Charles E.
[mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004
1:28 PM
To: Starkey, Jr., Joseph; Team3S (E-mail)
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Caution: OFF TOPIC!
What sort of gas mileage do you think it'll
get?
Chuck Willis
BTW I didn't see what displacement the engine
has.
Above email is for intended recipient only and may be
confidential and protected by attorney/client privilege.
If you are not the
intended recipient, please advise the sender immediately.
Unauthorized use or
distribution is prohibited and may be unlawful.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 19:47:03
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Caution: OFF TOPIC!
Nothing new, two years ago the
Bugatti with 1001HP is much more exotic ? Do
a worldwide search.
- -
Roger
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
To:
"Team3S (E-mail)" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, January 05, 2004 7:21 PM
Subject: Team3S: Caution: OFF
TOPIC!
> Forgive me in advance for this OT post, but I just read
an article about
the new Chrysler ME Four-Twelve and have to talk about
it. Have you guys
seen this monster? It is powered by four turbo
chargers and a massive
12-cylinder, 850 horsepower engine. Expected top
speed is 248. For more
info, see
http://www.reuters.com/newsArticle.jhtml;jsessionid=BJRP25YV3ZMUMCRBAELCFFA?type=reutersEdge&storyID=4070348.
Of
course, it will probably cost $500K or more, I'm sure.
>
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 05 Jan 2004 18:50:22
+0000
From:
mjannusch@comcast.netSubject: Re:
Team3S: Initial crank/cam timing (was: Timing belt gurus)
> Also,
until the crank pulley is installed and torqued down, it seems
> that the
timing gears and the crank can move independently of one
>
another.
There's supposed to be a key in the slot between the crank and
the timing belt sprocket to keep them aligned. I think I'm remembering
that correctly, its been a long time since I've had mine torn down that
far.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
> As long as we're on the
subject of timing belt installation, I've got a
> quick question about
timing a new shortblock for the first time.
>
> Based on the
rebuild guide, it looks like I'm supposed to turn the crank
> until piston
#1 is at TDC, and then line up all the marks. However, I
> haven't
found a procedure for ensuring piston #1 is truly at TDC. I got
> it
as close as I could by putting a long straw in the spark plug hole,
> and
watching it move up and down as I turned the crank. I think I've
>
got it within a degree or two, but some kind of a reference mark sure
>
would make me feel better.
>
> Also, until the crank pulley
is installed and torqued down, it seems
> that the timing gears and the
crank can move independently of one
> another. I know there's a tool
for keeping the crank pulley in place
> while installing, but what's to
keep the crank from spinning a bit
> against the crank pulley while I
torque everything down? It SEEMS like
> it ought to stay in place
simply from the friction of the crank pulley
> being tightened against
it...but again a more secure method would make
> me feel better.
>
> Thanks,
> - Brian Geddes
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
> Of
mjannusch@comcast.net> Sent:
Monday, January 05, 2004 10:08 AM
> To:
team3s@team3s.com> Subject: RE:
Team3S: Timing belt gurus
>
>
> > And you say to yourself
'The *%^#* belt stretched!'
>
> No, you say to yourself: "Damn, I
didn't tension the belt." If you
> loosely loop the belt over the
cam sprockets instead of keeping the belt
> taut then you are asking for
problems when you rotate the crank.
>
> Either method will work and
get the job done. The key to the whole
> thing is attention to
detail, making sure the belt is taut all the way
> around when setting the
tension. It does no good at all to set the
> tensioner pulley if
there's slack anywhere other than between the crank
> and frontmost cam,
whether you've counted teeth or not.
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT
Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 13:52:54
-0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Caution: OFF TOPIC!
Nothing new? Show me a similar
car with a "Made in the USA" badge! That's what caused my jaw-dropping
surprise. I'm certainly aware that other comparable (and not-so
comparable) exotics exist. Will people pay $450K for a USA made
supercar?
"Roger Gerl wrote . . . Nothing new, two years ago the
Bugatti with 1001HP is much more exotic ? Do
a worldwide
search."
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 12:46:47
-0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Caution: OFF TOPIC!
Five people will, and thats all
they care about.
On Mon, 5 Jan 2004, Starkey, Jr., Joseph
wrote:
> Nothing new? Show me a similar car with a "Made in the
USA" badge! That's what caused my jaw-dropping surprise. I'm
certainly aware that other comparable (and not-so comparable) exotics
exist. Will people pay $450K for a USA made supercar?
>
>
> "Roger Gerl wrote . . . Nothing new, two years ago the Bugatti with
1001HP is much more exotic ? Do
> a worldwide search."
>
www.SpeedToys.com: Geoff Mohler
orders@speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 13:55:08
-0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Initial crank/cam timing (was: Timing belt gurus)
Matt, you are
correct, there should be a key in the slot. DO NOT try to run your car
without the key in place. There's no way you can torque the crank bolt tight
enough to keep the gear and crank from turning independently without it.
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of
mjannusch@comcast.netSent: Monday,
January 05, 2004 1:50 PM
To:
team3s@team3s.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Initial crank/cam timing (was: Timing belt gurus)
> Also, until
the crank pulley is installed and torqued down, it seems
> that the timing
gears and the crank can move independently of one
>
another.
There's supposed to be a key in the slot between the crank and
the timing belt sprocket to keep them aligned. I think I'm remembering
that correctly, its been a long time since I've had mine torn down that
far.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
> As long as we're on the
subject of timing belt installation, I've got a
> quick question about
timing a new shortblock for the first time.
>
> Based on the
rebuild guide, it looks like I'm supposed to turn the crank
> until piston
#1 is at TDC, and then line up all the marks. However, I
> haven't
found a procedure for ensuring piston #1 is truly at TDC. I got
> it
as close as I could by putting a long straw in the spark plug hole,
> and
watching it move up and down as I turned the crank. I think I've
>
got it within a degree or two, but some kind of a reference mark sure
>
would make me feel better.
>
> Also, until the crank pulley
is installed and torqued down, it seems
> that the timing gears and the
crank can move independently of one
> another. I know there's a tool
for keeping the crank pulley in place
> while installing, but what's to
keep the crank from spinning a bit
> against the crank pulley while I
torque everything down? It SEEMS like
> it ought to stay in place
simply from the friction of the crank pulley
> being tightened against
it...but again a more secure method would make
> me feel better.
>
> Thanks,
> - Brian Geddes
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
> Of
mjannusch@comcast.net> Sent:
Monday, January 05, 2004 10:08 AM
> To:
team3s@team3s.com> Subject: RE:
Team3S: Timing belt gurus
>
>
> > And you say to yourself
'The *%^#* belt stretched!'
>
> No, you say to yourself: "Damn, I
didn't tension the belt." If you
> loosely loop the belt over the
cam sprockets instead of keeping the belt
> taut then you are asking for
problems when you rotate the crank.
>
> Either method will work and
get the job done. The key to the whole
> thing is attention to
detail, making sure the belt is taut all the way
> around when setting the
tension. It does no good at all to set the
> tensioner pulley if
there's slack anywhere other than between the crank
> and frontmost cam,
whether you've counted teeth or not.
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT
Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 10:58:55
-0800
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Initial crank/cam timing (was: Timing belt gurus)
There's a
key pin between the timing belt sprocket and the crank pulley,
but I didn't
see anything between the crank and the sprocket.
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of
mjannusch@comcast.netSent: Monday,
January 05, 2004 10:50 AM
To:
team3s@team3s.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Initial crank/cam timing (was: Timing belt gurus)
> Also, until
the crank pulley is installed and torqued down, it seems
> that the timing
gears and the crank can move independently of one
>
another.
There's supposed to be a key in the slot between the crank and
the
timing belt sprocket to keep them aligned. I think I'm remembering
that
correctly, its been a long time since I've had mine torn down that
far.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 11:00:28
-0800
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Initial crank/cam timing (was: Timing belt gurus)
Hmm...maybe
I missed something...I really don't remember seeing either a
key or a hole
for a key. I guess I'll have to remove the timing belt
and take a
look.
- - Brian
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Starkey, Jr., Joseph
Sent:
Monday, January 05, 2004 10:55 AM
To:
mjannusch@comcast.net;
team3s@team3s.comSubject: RE: Team3S:
Initial crank/cam timing (was: Timing belt gurus)
Matt, you are
correct, there should be a key in the slot. DO NOT try to
run your car
without the key in place. There's no way you can torque the
crank bolt tight
enough to keep the gear and crank from turning
independently without
it.
> Also, until the crank pulley is installed and torqued
down, it seems
> that the timing gears and the crank can move
independently of one
> another.
There's supposed to be a key in the
slot between the crank and the
timing belt sprocket to keep them
aligned. I think I'm remembering that
correctly, its been a long time
since I've had mine torn down that far.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 14:11:51
-0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Initial crank/cam timing (was: Timing belt gurus)
Now you've got
me wondering too!
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Geddes, Brian J
Sent: Monday,
January 05, 2004 2:00 PM
To:
team3s@team3s.comSubject: RE: Team3S:
Initial crank/cam timing (was: Timing belt gurus)
Hmm...maybe I
missed something...I really don't remember seeing either a
key or a hole for
a key. I guess I'll have to remove the timing belt
and take a
look.
- - Brian
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Starkey, Jr., Joseph
Sent:
Monday, January 05, 2004 10:55 AM
To:
mjannusch@comcast.net;
team3s@team3s.comSubject: RE: Team3S:
Initial crank/cam timing (was: Timing belt gurus)
Matt, you are
correct, there should be a key in the slot. DO NOT try to
run your car
without the key in place. There's no way you can torque the
crank bolt tight
enough to keep the gear and crank from turning
independently without
it.
> Also, until the crank pulley is installed and torqued
down, it seems
> that the timing gears and the crank can move
independently of one
> another.
There's supposed to be a key in the
slot between the crank and the
timing belt sprocket to keep them
aligned. I think I'm remembering that
correctly, its been a long time
since I've had mine torn down that far.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 11:24:30
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Initial crank/cam timing (was: Timing belt gurus)
There is a Woodruff key
in the crank/drive sprocket assembly ---- The Woodruff is a half moon
shaped
steel 'key' about an inch long and 3/16" thick. It fits into a machined half
moon in the crank
and sticks up about 1/8", the drive sprocket has a slot in
it that allows it to slip over the key and
locks the two together. With the
pully removed you could see if the key is in place, or at least
stick a wire
in the slot and feel it --- no key the wire would go in an inch or two. With the
key the
wire would stop at much less than an inch --- I could get the
measurements is needed, I have a spare
engine in my garage I'm assembling. By
just removing the pully you don't have to undo the timing
belt
setup.
They're right, no key = no
good
Jim
Berry
======================================
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
To:
<
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent:
Monday, January 05, 2004 11:00 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Initial crank/cam
timing (was: Timing belt gurus)
> Hmm...maybe I missed
something...I really don't remember seeing either a
> key or a hole for a
key. I guess I'll have to remove the timing belt
> and take a
look.
>
> - Brian
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 14:33:33
-0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Initial crank/cam timing (was: Timing belt gurus)
Brian, this is
confirmed on CAPS. There is a woodruff key as Jim describes.
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Jim Berry
Sent: Monday,
January 05, 2004 2:25 PM
To: Geddes, Brian J;
team3s@team3s.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Initial crank/cam timing (was: Timing belt gurus)
There is a Woodruff
key in the crank/drive sprocket assembly ---- The Woodruff is a half
moon
shaped steel 'key' about an inch long and 3/16" thick. It fits into a
machined half moon in the crank
and sticks up about 1/8", the drive sprocket
has a slot in it that allows it to slip over the key and
locks the two
together. With the pully removed you could see if the key is in place, or at
least
stick a wire in the slot and feel it --- no key the wire would go in an
inch or two. With the key the
wire would stop at much less than an inch --- I
could get the measurements is needed, I have a spare
engine in my garage I'm
assembling. By just removing the pully you don't have to undo the timing
belt
setup.
They're right, no key = no
good
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 14:46:52
-0500
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
Team3S: Resending: Chrysler Supercar revealed...
Source:
DaimlerChrysler
The spectacular quad-turbo, V-12 powered, mid-engine
Chrysler ME
Four-Twelve super car has roared onto the scene to shine as the
most
advanced Chrysler ever built. ...
````````````````
http://vca2.viperclub.org/forums/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB17&Number=358417http://www.fast-autos.net/chrysler/chryslerme412.htmlThey
do make nice concepts here once every 3-5 years... It would have been
my next
dream car only if it had AWD and was for real. I can already see
myself
gutting that interior and tearing apart those lights to make them
look
half-decent. Then maybe a bleeder valve mod or a single turbo
conversion,
LOL! :-)
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 11:58:00
-0800
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Initial crank/cam timing (was: Timing belt gurus)
That's good
- this is exactly what I was hoping to hear. The machine
shop must have
lost mine when disassembling the old block. Still, it's
very strange
that this key isn't mentioned in the engine rebuild guide.
Joseph,
did you happen to note the part number in CAPS, so I can
order
one?
Thanks,
- - Brian
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Starkey, Jr., Joseph [mailto:starkeyje@bipc.com]
Sent:
Monday, January 05, 2004 11:34 AM
To: Jim Berry; Geddes, Brian J;
team3s@team3s.comSubject: RE: Team3S:
Initial crank/cam timing (was: Timing belt gurus)
Brian, this is
confirmed on CAPS. There is a woodruff key as
Jim
describes.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 15:17:00
-0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Initial crank/cam timing (was: Timing belt
gurus)
MD008959
Also, for some reason, the woodruff key is not
shown in CAPS under the Timing components, but is listed in the crankshaft
section. So, take a glance in the section of the service manual for the
crank, and you may see it there.
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Geddes, Brian J
Sent: Monday,
January 05, 2004 2:58 PM
To:
team3s@team3s.comSubject: RE: Team3S:
Initial crank/cam timing (was: Timing belt gurus)
That's good - this
is exactly what I was hoping to hear. The machine
shop must have lost
mine when disassembling the old block. Still, it's
very strange that
this key isn't mentioned in the engine rebuild guide.
Joseph, did you
happen to note the part number in CAPS, so I can
order
one?
Thanks,
- - Brian
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Starkey, Jr., Joseph [mailto:starkeyje@bipc.com]
Sent:
Monday, January 05, 2004 11:34 AM
To: Jim Berry; Geddes, Brian J;
team3s@team3s.comSubject: RE: Team3S:
Initial crank/cam timing (was: Timing belt gurus)
Brian, this is
confirmed on CAPS. There is a woodruff key as
Jim
describes.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 05 Jan 2004 20:26:21
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Caution: OFF TOPIC!
>> 0-60 MPH: 2.9 seconds
(mfr.)
There are 4 owners I can think of that have or had a 3000GT VR4 or
Stealth TT that can go that fast - and the car should have cost no more than
1/10 the cost of this (ugly in my opinion) "supercar":
Jack
Tertadian
Matt Monett
Mike Mahaffey
Takayoshi
Iwasaki
There are perhaps others. What is needed to go 0-60 in less than
3 seconds? A 1/4 mile ET less than 11 seconds. :)
Jeez! Chrysler needs
*4* turbos and *V12* to do that? Sounds like they could use some lessens from
the gentleman above. :)
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
To: "Willis,
Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>;
"Team3S (E-mail)" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, January 05, 2004 11:45 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Caution: OFF
TOPIC!
Here's the specs from
http://www.autoweek.com/cat_content.mv?port_code=autoweek&cat_code=coverstory&loc_code=&content_code=02120930
(a must read)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 05 Jan 2004 14:43:43
-0600
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Caution: OFF TOPIC!
At 08:26 PM 1/5/2004 -0000, Jeff Lucius
wrote:
>>> 0-60 MPH: 2.9 seconds (mfr.
>There are 4 owners I
can think of that have or had a 3000GT VR4 or Stealth
TT that can go that
fast - and the car should have cost no more than 1/10
the cost of this (ugly
in my opinion) "supercar"
Every time I think about buying another car --
such as a Z06, M3, TT
Porsche (as if I could afford them any way) -- it
occurs to me that just
putting another $5K into MY 94 VR4 would make it as
fast as anything on the
DE track these days. Another $10K on top of that
would make it as fast as
the superexotics that cost a half million dollars.
With our cars, 600hp is
within reach. Just take a stock VR4 or TT Stealth,
add $20,000 in mods, and
you can beat almost anybody. Except Jack T, of
course. If I could beat
everybody but Jack T on a road course, I would be a
happy camper.
Rich/slow old poop
>
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 15:47:33
-0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Caution: OFF TOPIC!
I'm not defending the car--I certainly can't
afford it and couldn't care less about its specs. I'm just amazed that an
American car company actually built something like this. I was online last
night and hit a webpage that talked about "practical" sports cars (those that
the average citizen can afford). I know we're in a different league here,
but do you know what American cars were listed? Pontiac Bonneville SSEI,
Chevy Cavalier, Mustang, Pontiac Vibe, Pontiac Sunfire, Neon. I mean,
please. With the exception of perhaps the Mustang, do any of those cars
even remotely resemble a sports car? I think not, except perhaps to fans
of the Fast & the Furious. I didn't think an American car company had
the ability to actually design something like the ME412. (I'm ignoring the
Vette and the Viper, which are in a different league still, but certainly do not
qualify as exotics). However, as you know, speed and acceleration out of
the pit is one thing. I've heard of 1000 hp H!
onda CRXs that can
crush into the 7s and 8s. However, maintaining that level of acceleration
through top speed is an entirely different ball of wax. JMHO
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Jeff Lucius
Sent: Monday,
January 05, 2004 3:26 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Caution: OFF TOPIC!
>> 0-60 MPH: 2.9 seconds
(mfr.)
There are 4 owners I can think of that have or had a 3000GT VR4 or
Stealth TT that can go that fast - and the car should have cost no more than
1/10 the cost of this (ugly in my opinion) "supercar":
Jack
Tertadian
Matt Monett
Mike Mahaffey
Takayoshi
Iwasaki
There are perhaps others. What is needed to go 0-60 in less than
3 seconds? A 1/4 mile ET less than 11 seconds. :)
Jeez! Chrysler needs
*4* turbos and *V12* to do that? Sounds like they could use some lessens from
the gentleman above. :)
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 12:58:05
-0800
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Initial crank/cam timing (was: Timing belt gurus)
Thanks -
local dealership has one for a couple of bucks.
I can't find any
mention of the key anywhere in the rebuild guide. It's
absent from the
diagrams for both the timing belt install (where the
crank sprocket is
pictured), and the crankshaft. Seems like a pretty
big hole in the
manual - glad I asked around! :)
Thanks guys.
- -
Brian
- -----Original Message-----
From: Starkey, Jr., Joseph
[mailto:starkeyje@bipc.com]
Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 12:17 PM
To:
Geddes, Brian J;
team3s@team3s.comSubject: RE: Team3S:
Initial crank/cam timing (was: Timing belt
gurus)
MD008959
Also, for some reason, the woodruff key is not
shown in CAPS under the
Timing components, but is listed in the crankshaft
section. So, take a
glance in the section of the service manual for the
crank, and you may
see it there.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 12:19:59
-0500
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
Team3S: Chrysler Supercar revealed...
Source: DaimlerChrysler
The
spectacular quad-turbo, V-12 powered, mid-engine Chrysler ME
Four-Twelve
super car has roared onto the scene to shine as the most
advanced Chrysler
ever built. ...
````````````````
http://vca2.viperclub.org/forums/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB17&Number=358417http://www.fast-autos.net/chrysler/chryslerme412.htmlThey
do make nice concepts here once every 3-5 years... It would have been
my next
dream car only if it had AWD and was for real. I can already see
myself
gutting that interior and tearing apart those lights to make them
look
half-decent. Then maybe a bleeder valve mod or a single turbo
conversion,
LOL! :-)
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 16:13:18
-0500
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: Caution: OFF TOPIC!
It also does 0-100 in 6.2 sec. What kind
of 1/4 mine performance would that
correspond to? And BTW, the 7 speed
transmission is an auto (or more
precisely an automatically shifting 7-speed
with a trick double wet
clutch), so you do not lose 0.5 sec or so per shift.
Keeps your turbos
spooled too.
I agree, there is some ugliness in the
head and tail lights and the hood
and the grille opening, but the profile,
the shape and the stance is very
close to the 3/S, which is what I liked.
Also, they have a fresh and
original fender profile, I liked that too. One
thing that confused me is
huge side vents. It they are for engine cooling,
then why such a big front
opening and hood exhaust vents? Or if they are for
"aerodynamics, aren't
they just like open pockets that end when they hit the
rear tires? And
those ridiculous Christmas-style taillights combined with
almost vertical
fenders in front of the rear wheels probably produce the most
drag in the
whole car! No, that car did not spend a single hour in the wind
tunnel.
Philip
- -----------------------------------
"Jeff
Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
wrote:
>> 0-60 MPH: 2.9 seconds (mfr.)
There are 4 owners I can
think of that have or had a 3000GT VR4 or Stealth
TT that can go that fast -
and the car should have cost no more than 1/10
the cost of this (ugly in my
opinion) "supercar":
Jack Tertadian
Matt Monett
Mike Mahaffey
Takayoshi Iwasaki
There are perhaps others. What
is needed to go 0-60 in less than 3 seconds?
A 1/4 mile ET less than 11
seconds. :)
Jeez! Chrysler needs *4* turbos and *V12* to do that? Sounds
like they
could use some lessens from the gentleman above. :)
Jeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 16:14:00
-0700
From: "Trevor James" <
trevorlj@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Chrysler Supercar 0-60 times
There are some other guys capable of 0-60 in
2.9. Not sure if it's 100%
accurate (what is) but check this out:
http://www.teamnabr.com/modules.php?name=Content&pa=showpage&pid=8Says
0-60 in 2.93 for my best
7.443@95.65 1/8th mile
time. I guess I've got
some work to do. ;)
Trevor
96 R/T TT with a
couple reliability mods...
> "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
wrote:
> >> 0-60 MPH: 2.9 seconds (mfr.)
>
> There are 4
owners I can think of that have or had a 3000GT VR4 or Stealth
> TT that
can go that fast - and the car should have cost no more than 1/10
> the
cost of this (ugly in my opinion) "supercar":
> Jack
Tertadian
> Matt Monett
> Mike
Mahaffey
> Takayoshi Iwasaki
>
> There are perhaps
others. What is needed to go 0-60 in less than 3
seconds?
> A 1/4 mile
ET less than 11 seconds. :)
>
> Jeez! Chrysler needs *4* turbos and
*V12* to do that? Sounds like they
> could use some lessens from the
gentleman above. :)
>
> Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 15:18:42
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Current draw with ignition off
> So it seems that 14.5 mA draw
is reasonable. Does anyone else
> here have current draw measurements to
compare to?
Been on vacation, so I'm a little late here :-)
My '95
VR-4, with an aftermarket alarm and a bunch of instrumentation that has
"constant +12V" connections, draws 35mA when parked and "Off".
If
you open/close the hood, which [dis]engages the hood switch, the current jumps
up (to 100mA? - I forget exactly) momentarily and then goes back down to
35mA. Apparently the hood switch does not make a permanent current path
when connected (up/on).
As a way of testing this without resetting your
ECU and radio: take your ammeter and connect the positive wire to the negative
terminal post of the battery. Then connect the negative lead of the
ammeter to the negative terminal of the chassis. Carefully remove the
negative terminal from the battery post, being careful not to knock either of
your ammeter connectors off. Now your ammeter is reading your battery
current and the car's power was never interrupted. BTW, I mention doing
this on the negative terminal side simply because that's easier to remove on my
car (I have a wing-nut terminal). You could do it on the positive side if
you like, but then you have to be careful with the wrench :-)
-
--Erik
'95 VR-4
www.team3s.com/~egross***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 15:19:50
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Thanks, I was confused but now I am just befuddled;-)
Since I
wrote some of the timing belt material you refer to, I'll toss in a couple of
comments... On the first timing belt change I helped with (where the
pictures were taken), Rich used the "count the teeth" method. That method
works. It's a bit time consuming, but it works reliably. I used that
method for the second timing belt change I worked on.
As for the
3rd (and every one after that) timing belt change I did, I just aligned all the
timing marks to TDC #1, locked the front camshafts with a camshaft locker,
removed the old belt, turned the crank one tooth CCW, and then reinstalled the
belt. The reason for rotating the crank one tooth CCW is that when you
initially put the belt on, there will be a little slack between every gear; when
you take out all the slack, you want the slack to end up in the vicinity of the
tensioner so that adjusting the tensioner removes all the slack.
That's
worked EVERY time with zero problems. Having done it both ways, the second
way (just align the marks and be done with it) is easier IMHO.
-
--Erik
'95 VR-4
www.team3s.com/~egross***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 15:56:36
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Initial crank/cam timing (was: Timing belt gurus)
It's shown in my copy
of the shop manual CD --- page 11-25 --- but not refered to
in the
directions.
Jim
Berry
============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
>
Thanks - local dealership has one for a couple of bucks.
>
>
I can't find any mention of the key anywhere in the rebuild guide.
It's
> absent from the diagrams for both the timing belt install (where
the
> crank sprocket is pictured), and the crankshaft. Seems like a
pretty
> big hole in the manual - glad I asked around!
:)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 16:04:05
-0800
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Initial crank/cam timing (was: Timing belt gurus)
I'm working
off of the Mitsu 6G72 shop rebuild manual. It's not in the
picture
there - 11E-55.
- - Brian
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Jim Berry [mailto:fastmax@cox.net]
Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 3:57
PM
To: Geddes, Brian J;
team3s@team3s.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Initial crank/cam timing (was: Timing belt gurus)
It's shown in my
copy of the shop manual CD --- page 11-25 --- but not
refered to
in the
directions.
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 17:07:50
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Driveshaft Carrier Bearing Replacement
It sounds like several
people have gone through replacing parts/all of the driveshaft recently, so I'd
like to know what's involved in replacing the carrier bearings. I'm
getting some very slight vibration from my driveline, and I'm planning to
replace the carrier bearings as (semi-) preventative maintenance. Here's
what I've got so far:
Qty PNC P/N Description
-
------------------------------------------------------------------
1 31107
MB505495 Center Bearing Propeller Shaft Front
1 31109 MB505495 Center Bearing
Propeller Shaft Rear
4 31096D MF445005 Nut, Propeller Shaft Self Locking,
10
4 31118 MB505283 Insulator, Propeller Shaft Ctr Bearing, Upr
4
31119 MB505284 Insulator, Propeller Shaft Ctr Bearing, Lwr
4 31090G MF450406
Washer, Propeller Shaft Spring, 10
2 31843B MB661775 Spacer, Propeller
Shaft
2 31843C MB505658 Spacer, Propeller Shaft
-
------------------------------------------------------------------
The
first two are the rubber "bearings" themselves. The self-locking nut could
probably be reused with some lock-tite, but if they're $0.20 or so, who
cares... As for the insulators and spacers, should those be
replaced? It looks like the insulators are probably rubber or plastic, so
I imagine they could be worn. I haven't gotten under there and taken
anything apart, so anyone have any comments on that?
Anything else
I should replace while I'm under there? Oh, and am I gonna need a press
(or assistance from a machine shop) to replace the bearings, or can I just slide
them on/off the shaft without too much trouble once I have the flanges
unbolted?
Thanks,
- --Erik
'95 VR-4
www.team3s.com/~egross***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 19:25:13
-0600
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
alex@kolosy.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Caution: OFF TOPIC!
It looks very reminiscent of the audi
lemans...
*cough*ripoff*cough*
- -Alex.
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSent:
Monday, January 05, 2004 3:13 PM
To:
team3s@team3s.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Caution: OFF TOPIC!
It also does 0-100 in 6.2 sec. What kind of 1/4 mine
performance would
that
correspond to? And BTW, the 7 speed transmission is
an auto (or more
precisely an automatically shifting 7-speed with a trick
double wet
clutch), so you do not lose 0.5 sec or so per shift. Keeps your
turbos
spooled too.
I agree, there is some ugliness in the head and
tail lights and the hood
and the grille opening, but the profile, the shape
and the stance is
very
close to the 3/S, which is what I liked. Also, they
have a fresh and
original fender profile, I liked that too. One thing that
confused me is
huge side vents. It they are for engine cooling, then why such
a big
front
opening and hood exhaust vents? Or if they are for
"aerodynamics, aren't
they just like open pockets that end when they hit the
rear tires? And
those ridiculous Christmas-style taillights combined with
almost
vertical
fenders in front of the rear wheels probably produce the
most drag in
the
whole car! No, that car did not spend a single hour in
the wind tunnel.
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 19:37:28
-0600
From: "Jesse Rink" <
jrink@w3si.org>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Driveshaft Carrier Bearing Replacement
Erik,
I can't help you out with
replacement of the carrier bearings themselves
since I just ditched the whole
stock DS in favor of a 2 piece CFDS, but you
will likely need to replace the
rubber insulators (top and bottom
MB505283/284). They are more
than likely worn and may even break apart
when you pull them off the
car. Save yourself the trouble and order them
instead of trying to save
a few pennies. You can probably get away without
having to
purchase the MB505658 and MB661775 parts, considering they're not
rubber I
doubt that you'll have a problem with them being worn out. But
if
you're going to buy new locking nuts, then it cant hurt buying new
spacers
either. I think the MB505658 and MB661775 parts are identical,
I'm unsure
why they have different #'s in CAPS - model years
perhaps?
You may also need 31079 - MB241174, but I just used standard
flat washers
instead. I believe you could do the same (flat washers)
for the 31090G
parts too. Hardware store works.
One problem I
did run into though after installing my 2 piece CFDS, the DS
has to be level
and not in a /\ or \/ position, otherwise your carrier(s)
will rub on the
rubber insulators from the carrier bearing mounting
assembly. I would
definitely DOCUMENT how all the pieces/spacers/insulators
went together as
you pull it off the car. If you pull them off and try to
remember how
they went back together a month later, you'll be kicking
yourself. CAPS
doesn't give you a good picture of how everything fits
together, nor does the
repair manual.
Wish I could help you more with the carriers themselves
but I didn't replace
mine. From what I understand you cannot just pull the
bearings on and off,
you will need to get them pressed on at a shop or
somewhere capable. Hope
that helps.
Jesse Rink
Eagle,
WI
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
To: "Team3S
List (E-mail)" <
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent: Monday,
January 05, 2004 7:07 PM
Subject: Team3S: Driveshaft Carrier Bearing
Replacement
> It sounds like several people have gone through
replacing parts/all of the
driveshaft recently, so I'd like to know what's
involved in replacing the
carrier bearings. I'm getting some very
slight vibration from my driveline,
and I'm planning to replace the carrier
bearings as (semi-) preventative
maintenance. Here's what I've got so
far:
>
>
> Qty PNC P/N Description
>
------------------------------------------------------------------
> 1
31107 MB505495 Center Bearing Propeller Shaft Front
> 1 31109 MB505495
Center Bearing Propeller Shaft Rear
>
> 4 31096D MF445005 Nut,
Propeller Shaft Self Locking, 10
>
> 4 31118 MB505283 Insulator,
Propeller Shaft Ctr Bearing, Upr
> 4 31119 MB505284 Insulator, Propeller
Shaft Ctr Bearing, Lwr
> 4 31090G MF450406 Washer, Propeller Shaft Spring,
10
> 2 31843B MB661775 Spacer, Propeller Shaft
> 2 31843C MB505658
Spacer, Propeller Shaft
>
------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
The first two are the rubber "bearings" themselves. The self-locking
nut
could probably be reused with some lock-tite, but if they're $0.20 or
so,
who cares... As for the insulators and spacers, should those
be replaced?
It looks like the insulators are probably rubber or plastic, so
I imagine
they could be worn. I haven't gotten under there and taken
anything apart,
so anyone have any comments on that?
>
> Anything
else I should replace while I'm under there? Oh, and am I gonna
need a
press (or assistance from a machine shop) to replace the bearings, or
can I
just slide them on/off the shaft without too much trouble once I have
the
flanges unbolted?
>
> Thanks,
> --Erik
> '95 VR-4
www.team3s.com/~egross>
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 20:49:20
-0500
From: "Omar Malik" <
ojm@iname.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Driveshaft Carrier Bearing Replacement
You can get them off with a
regular 2 or 3 jaw puller. The old bearings will
be separated from the rubber
carrier, but that's ok, sice it's being
replaced. Use a puller once to get
the rubber carrier and bracket off the
driveshaft, it will just pull off over
the old bearing, then use a puller
the second time to get the bearing off.
Remember to note which way they came
off, then put the new ones on in the
same manner. You should be able to get
the bearing down far enough to put the
lock nut on, and drive the bearing on
by tightening it.
-
-----Original Message-----
Anything else I should replace while I'm under
there? Oh, and am I gonna
need a press (or assistance from a machine
shop) to replace the bearings, or
can I just slide them on/off the shaft
without too much trouble once I have
the flanges
unbolted?
Thanks,
- --Erik
'95 VR-4
www.team3s.com/~egross***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 21:48:42
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: brake fluid low?
that's why you put shop rags around the
brake reservior when you push the pistons back in ...
Chuck
Willis
-----Original Message-----
From: Geoff Mohler
[mailto:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
Sent: Mon 1/5/2004 12:36 PM
To:
Willis, Charles E.
Cc: Dan;
team3s@team3s.com Subject: RE: Team3S:
brake fluid low?
Beware that if you push in your caliper pistons
on the next fluid
change,,you'll have fluid all over the
place.
1) never top it, just push the piston back in and it'll be
fine when you
add new pads..the fluid goes down as the pads
wear
2) top it, but when you push in the pistons for the new pads,
have the
bleed screw open so you dont make a huge mess.
Pick
either.
On Mon, 5 Jan 2004, Willis, Charles E. wrote:
> The
rubber cup expands to fill the void created as the brake pads wear (normal) or
fluid leaks out (abnormal). Push the rubber cup back into the top and add fluid
to the top of the reservior, assuming there are no air bubbles under the screen
in the reservoir.
>
> Chuck Willis
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Dan [mailto:dahur1@comcast.net]
> Sent:
Saturday, January 03, 2004 5:39 PM
> To:
team3s@team3s.com> Subject: Team3S:
brake fluid low?
>
>
> I happened to look at the brake fluid
level in the master cylinder of my "94
> Stealth. The rubber cup is
extended down
> about 1 inch into the cylinder. Is this normal, or
is my fluid low and I
> have to add some and reset the rubber cup?
>
How high a level should the fluid be? The owners manual does not
say.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dan