Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Thursday, December 18 2003
Volume 02 : Number
325
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Dec 2003 06:57:12 -0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Re: squeeking after 2-piece cfds install
For one thing the spacers are
different for the front and the rear carrier bearing,
that's why they tell
you to pay attention when you remove them. I have no idea
what the
requirements are for the 'new' driveshaft.
I would think it would take a
serious misalignment to cause a new bearing to
squeak. I just replaced mine
and the rubber isolation support had sagged about
1/2" or more. They did not
squeak and the bearings were good.
The parts list looks
correct.
Jim
Berry
==============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Jesse Rink" <
jrink@w3si.org>
To: <
Team3S@team3s.com>
Sent: Tuesday,
December 16, 2003 9:54 PM
Subject: Team3S: Re: squeeking after 2-piece cfds
install
> Followup:
>
> I'm starting to think Mitsu
did NOT give me enough spacers/insulators for
> the carrier
mount. This is what they gave me:
>
> (2) MB505283
(upper insulator)
> (2) MB505284 (lower insulator)
> (2) MB505658
(spacer)
> (2) MB445005 (locking nut)
>
> It seems like I'm
missing something - what, I'm not sure... when looking
> in
the repair manual it seems like there should be MORE. Again, this
is
> only for ONE carrier mount.. but I still think I'm short on
parts... which
> may be the reason I'm my CFDS 2-piece is making noise
cause its not lined up
> correctly... Just a thought, I could be off
base here. If anyone can tell
> me for sure WHICH parts #s I need
and HOW MANY for a single carrier mount,
> that would really help.
OR if anyone has a STOCK DS laying around, that
> they could just look at
it and tell me, that would be great, thanks.
>
> Jesse Rink
>
Eagle, WI
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2003 10:08:19
-0500
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: VR4 ride height measurments and Tein Flex install
experience
I need to issue a correction. The dimension that I
mentioned was supposed
to be 15.5" (not 25.5").
Philip
-
------------------------------------------------------
>> I
installed Tein Flex on my 97 VR4 today...
>
>Dan -- The stock ride
height, AFAIK, is 15.5" from the fender lip to wheel
>center, all
around.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2003 11:50:26
-0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt D" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: VR4 ride height measurments and Tein Flex install experience
Late
reply..
I do recall 27 to 27 1/4 being stock on the front, not sure on
rear.
It may be a tad lower with the GC's on my VR4, but its on jacks
right
now
so I couldn't measure.
I think the NA is very close to TT
in stock ride height.
My NA is currently 26.5 front and 28.5 rear. I
have 245/45-16 front (1
in lower
than stock) 255/50-16 on the rear (1/2
inch taller than stock).
The 26.5 in front is almost too low, especially
with the back lifted.
I have to be quite careful about dips and speed bumps.
So for the street, your 27.0 seems a good height.
Due to variation in
spring rate, shock differences, tire pressures, etc,
I would doubt that you
could notice anything less than 3/8 inch
difference
in static ride
height. Never hurts to try for perfection though.
Kurt
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Dan Hyde
Sent: Monday,
December 15, 2003 12:31 AM
To:
Team3S@team3s.comSubject: Team3S: VR4
ride height measurments and Tein Flex install
experience
I
installed Tein Flex on my 97 VR4 today but before starting I measured
"ride
height" with the idea that I should attempt to maintain the
"relative to
stock" front to rear weight distribution. To my dismay, I
found variance in
the measured height between front and rear and also
left to
right.
Vehicle: 1997 VR4 93,082 miles( ~149,800 km) Stock
suspension original
equipment
Measurement environmental and
method:
1. A level surface (my garage)
2. Equalized all tire pressure @
35PSI (Enkie 18x9.5 RP01 45mm offset
w/Nitto NT 555 - 265/35 ZR18) 3. Using
carpenter level to obtain
exacting vertical measurements from the floor
surface through wheel
center and horizontal level measure to top of exterior
fender opening
(i.e right angles)
Measured:
LR - 27 1/4" (69.22
cm)
RR - 27 1/2" (69.85 cm)
LF - 28 1/8" (71.44 cm)
RF - 28 3/8" (72.08
cm)
I was a bit surprised with the delta between front and rear
measurements
since I never visually noticed that the rear was nearly 1" lower
than
the front. I am curious if this 1 inch difference is usual and
normal?.
Upon seeing differences between left and right measurements, I
assumed
(rationalize) that this might be due to aging springs -
sag?
The Tein Flex (part # DSR74-6USS1) can be height adjusted +/- 1.18"
(+/-
30mm) as they come from the factory (what Tein calls the
reference
setting). I chose to add (lengthen) by 1" for the initial
adjustment to
mitigate risk of lowering too far and experience potential
wheel
clearance troubles since I run wider tires and wheels than
typical. I
added 1" to the reference setting for both the front and
rear
struts/shocks.
Post installation measurements:
LR - 27"
(68.58 cm)
RR - 27 1/16" (68.74 cm) <--I guess my quest for
perfection eluded me
here somehow (I'll correct this later) LF - 26 7/8"
(68.26 cm) RF - 26
7/8" (68.26 cm)
Notice that the ride height between
front and rear now has less variance
- - for practical purposes lets call it
even all the way around for this
discussion.
Now, the question... - is
this a bad a good or a what situation? From a
perspective of
measurement and visuals, I would ordinarily be pleased
the I managed to get
everything this close on the first shot but I
question the weight
distribution change that has probably has occurred
verses the stock
configuration.
Any words of wisdom or thoughts about all of
this?
Some other observations/effects:
1. I will be getting camber
checked within the next week or two - test
drive feels OK but alignment is *a
must* with this change. 2. I was able
to eliminate the need for 5mm front
wheel spacers I was using because of
my 9.5" wheels and 45mm offset setup -
the Tein Flex at current the
current adjusted height gave me back sufficient
clearance.(and I am very
very pleased with that result!) 3. No clearance
problems noted thus far
- - I run over some rough roadways and did a little
hard cornering. 4. The
Tein's are definitely more solid than my old worn out
struts - kind of
shocking actually (the change is) but the more I drove the
more I have
to say that the ride is not teeth jarring at all which is a
description
I've read and used by others to describe ride quality.
Incidentally he
Flex setting is at 8 (of 16) clicks front and rear. 5. I run
Saner sways
front/rear. I was getting an unusual clunk clunk clunk on
very hard
left hand cornering which I discovered (just today) was happening
when
the stock suspension was becoming fully unloaded/extended during
that
kind of cornering event. The clunk noise was caused by the very
slight
a contact between the Left Saner sway bar link bolt head and the
left
rear wheel axle flange bolt heads. Because of the Tein change
in
geometry, this problem is now gone (halleluiah! - that old mystery
is
explained and finally solved).
I still have the EDFC install
remaining to do. A job that will get done
during the
holidays.
Dan
Pearl White 1997 VR4
K&N; FlowMaster
Catback;
Saner Performance Sway Bars (Front/Rear);
TEC Strut Tower bars
(Front/Rear);
3SX Adjustable Rear Control Arms;
3SX Stainless-Steel
Braided Brake Lines;
K40 Radar; Enkie 18x9.5 RP01 w/Nitto NT 555 - 265/35
ZR18;
Tein Flex/EDFC; (EDFC to install)
3SX TT Downpipe + RT ULTRA Cat
Combo (to install);
RPS Carbon-Carbon Clutch (to
install)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2003 10:10:52
-0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Re: squeeking after 2-piece cfds install
Jesse-
I do have a stock
DS lying around after dropping in my PST 1-piece.
However, my hardware is all
over the place in random bags. If it'll help,
then I can try to take
some pics of what I have. I think I have a rubber
insulator sitting lonely on
my shelf and around half of my insulators might
still be on the driveshaft. I
can take a pic of it but it'll take me awhile
since I need to find someone
with a digicam.
Here's what I think though. When troubleshooting
suspension and driveline
problems, there's nothing safer IMO than using your
hands. Get under the
car and trying pushing up on the shaft. See
if it's preloaded upwards or
downwards. If it is, then try to find
something lying around that you can
use to shim the insulators with such as a
washer or two. My disclaimer: be
careful! this is a temporary thing. If
you manage to fix the problem with
stuff that's lying around in your garage,
don't trust it until you
permanently fix the problem. Also realize that what
you ordered might not
actually be what you got. Jim mentioned that there are
variants of the
mounting hardware, and maybe the person who filled/packed
your order
referenced the wrong part number or threw in the hardware for the
wrong
section of the DS.
Another option: An automotive probe
stethescope would be a valuable tool in
determining *exactly* where the sound
is coming from. Jackstands for all 4
corners to lift the car is doable
but cumbersome. I'd recommend borrowing a
shop lift if you're going to spin
all 4's in the air and you want to do it
quickly + safely. Also, don't do
that for long since it's bad for the
drivetrain according to the warning
labels and FSM. You may want to spray
some thin oil at the place where you
suspect that the sound is coming from,
and see if the sound changes at
all. If I remember correctly, the DS
bearings are 100% sealed and the
thin oil won't make a difference unless the
bearing seal(s) are
shot.
Finally, what is the history of that center bearing--where has it
been? If
it is used then you might have just fried the carrier bearing
and it's not
showing its age until now. If it is new then it could be
faulty from the
factory and you should find your receipt in case you need to
ask for a
replacement. I hope this info gets you somewhere Jesse.
I'm located in the
SF Bay Area so if you're anywhere near me then let me
know.
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
1-piece CFDS = vibration
2 or more
piece CFDS = PITA =)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2003 12:10:30
-0600
From: <
jrwooldr@rockwellcollins.com>
Subject:
Team3S: interior lights
Interesting problem, the red lights in the doors
come on when I open the
door but none of the interior lights do. I
thought there was only one
switch for all the lights. Am I missing a
door switch or is there a relay
problem?
Jim W
92 3000GT SL
94
Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2003 13:53:30
-0500
From: "anthonymelillo" <
anthonymelillo@sprintmail.com>
Subject:
Subject: Team3S: Good datalogging cables on ebay
Is there any datalogging
available for the 2nd gen cars ? Mainly I am looking for something for my
1997 VR-4. I can easily make
any cable myself that is not a
problem.
Appreciate the help. Thanks
Anthony Melillo
1997 VR-4,
Firestorm Red
http://home.sprintmail.com/~anthonymelillo/3000gt.htm***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2003 12:24:37
-0800
From: "Guy, Michael (CS)" <
michael.guy@ngc.com>
Subject:
Team3S: SOHC Block questions
I recently purchased a SOHC block from a guy
off 3si for $150. Said the
motor had 118k miles on it, and came with
everything(alternator,power
steering pump, AC compressor) except the upper
intake phlenum. I also got a
DOHC throttle body from him aswell, with full
intentions of putting that on
the motor,(complete with IAC, and the other
goodies that go along with it.)
Here is my question.
Will VR4/TT
forged pistons fit in the block? I have full intentions of
rebuilding the
motor, but I was curious about this, since they really don't
make aftermarket
pistons for the SOHC. I plan on getting the block bored out
just slightly for
that added umph.
I've already done the math, and I really cannot afford
to upgrade to a twin
turbo 3S. The insurance would just kill me outright, so
I decided to build a
decently quick SOHC motor to propel my car, so this is
my other option.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2003 21:32:03
+0000
From:
mjannusch@comcast.netSubject: Re:
Team3S: SOHC Block questions
> Will VR4/TT forged pistons fit in the
block? I have
> full intentions of rebuilding the motor, but I was
>
curious about this, since they really don't make
> aftermarket pistons for
the SOHC. I plan on getting
> the block bored out just slightly for that
added umph.
They will fit the block, but TT pistons will drop your
compression down to 8.0:1, which you obviously do not want on a naturally
aspirated motor. You may also have problems with the valve reliefs being
in the wrong spots on the pistons. Using the DOHC NA pistons would
certainly have valve clearance issues with SOHC heads.
If you want to
bore, then get the largest sized stock SOHC pistons that you can order from
Mitsubishi and use those.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2003 16:03:43
-0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: SOHC Block questions
On Wed, 17 Dec 2003
mjannusch@comcast.net wrote:
>
> Will VR4/TT forged pistons fit in the block? I have
> > full
intentions of rebuilding the motor, but I was
> > curious about this,
since they really don't make
> > aftermarket pistons for the SOHC. I
plan on getting
> > the block bored out just slightly for that added
umph.
>
> They will fit the block, but TT pistons will drop your
compression down to 8.0:1, which you obviously do not want on a naturally
aspirated motor. You may also have problems with the valve reliefs being
in the wrong spots on the pistons. Using the DOHC NA pistons would
certainly have valve clearance issues with SOHC heads.
>
> If you
want to bore, then get the largest sized stock SOHC pistons that you can order
from Mitsubishi and use those.
- ---
I would change this if you -need- to
bore. Boring on small motors is a
_really_ expensive way to gain
marginal if any real HP
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2003 22:27:07
+0000
From:
mjannusch@comcast.netSubject: Re:
Team3S: SOHC Block questions
> I would change this if you -need- to
bore. Boring on
> small motors is a _really_ expensive way to
gain
> marginal if any real HP
True. Certainly gains would be
a lot higher from forced induction or other means than by boring up to 93mm,
which appears to be the maximum practical limit. My block is bored to
93mm, and I'd say if I needed to bore/hone again I'd trash the block and get a
new one to start from.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2003 22:30:07
+0000
From:
mjannusch@comcast.netSubject: Re:
Subject: Team3S: Good datalogging cables on ebay
> Is there any
datalogging available for the 2nd gen
> cars ? Mainly I am looking
for something for my
> 1997 VR-4.
Any OBD-2 scan tool
software/cable will work on '96 and later cars. On the underside of your
hood on one of the metal plates it'll say something along the lines of "OBD-II
compliant" if your car is a loggable 2nd Gen.
You won't be able to log
the oft-talked-about "knock sum" though, as the ECU doesn't supply it to the
interface. You'll be able to log just about anything else though.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2003 17:31:39
-0500
From: "anthonymelillo" <
anthonymelillo@sprintmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: scantool kits
Hey they guy that has those datacables on ebay gave
me a link to really cool scantool kits.
I don't know that
much about the whole idea, I have to peruse the archives tomorrow, off to Lord
Of The Rings right now.
But in case anyone wants to check them out, here
is the link:
http://www.scantool.net/-
--------------------
Anthony Melillo
1997 VR-4, Firestorm Red
http://home.sprintmail.com/~anthonymelillo/3000gt.htm***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2003 14:53:19
-0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
25-hour Enduro Race at Thunderhill - Photos Updated...
I still haven't
finished writing a complete Race Report for the Team3S
website, since I spent
all of last week down with flu... But I've just
updated the page with
my photographs of our participation at the 25 Hours of
Thunderhill - "the
longest and most demanding endurance race on the planet"!
www.Team3S.com/Enduro2003/25hourPix.htmThanks
go out one more time to our absolutely *amazing*
"Team3S NASA BBQ Crew" - and
our car #33! ;-)
The Drivers: Ed Gaven, Eileen Thomas
("E.T."), Erick Van Waganen, Jeff
Mohler, Steve Romine, and Tommy
Lo.
The Pit Crew: Anissa Mohler, Ann Koch, Bill Ashurst, Bob
Forrest, Bonni
Weatherwax, George Morrill, Jim Bucha, Linda Romine, Mario
Lento, Ron
Bertolone, and Vern Roberts.
The Mascots: Katie
Mohler and Victor Romine.
And special thanks to our $ponsors and
$upporters:
www.Reno-FernleyRaceway.com,
www.SFClubs.com,
www.SpeedToys.com, Philip
Glazatov, Kurt
Zobel, and Jesse Rink, and, of course, E.T.'s "The Next Level"
driving
school, linked at
www.GoneRacing.com...; to Albert
Butterfield, Mike
Brunelle, Donna Harris and Vicman Ng (who did most of the
work on our car #33)
from the Metric Motorsports Team (1st Place the 25-hour
Enduro E3 class) for
their assistance at the track and the use of their
trailer, to Donny Edwards
of the Factory Five Racing West Team, to Dave Brown
of the No Hurry Racing
Team (2nd Place the 25-hour Enduro E2 class), to NASA
NorCal Director Jerry
Kunzman, and to SO many other friends who helped us
along the way...
Thanks to all who contributed to this effort - for your
assistance, for your
dedication, and most of all..., thank you for your
friendship!
Best,
Bob Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2003 16:49:20
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: interior lights
> Interesting problem, the red lights in the
doors come
> on when I open the door but none of the interior
>
lights do. I thought there was only one
> switch for all the
lights. Am I missing a door
> switch or is there a relay
problem?
>
> Jim W
> 92 3000GT SL
> 94 Stealth RT
TT
Hi Jim,
The door light is controlled by the door
switch(es). The dome light and some of the interior lighting is controlled
by the ETACS unit, which monitors the door switch. The 2nd gen cars have 2
switches in one unit for the door switch - one is for the door light, and one is
for the ETACS unit. I don't remember for sure if the 1st gen units have 2
switches per door or 1, but I think the 1st gen cars have only one switch per
door. Perhaps you have a problem with the ETACS unit, assuming that you
have turned to dome light to the "door" position.
- --Erik
'95
VR-4
www.team3s.com/~egross***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2003 20:47:59
-0500
From: Darren Schilberg <
dschilberg@spamcop.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: interior lights
Don't forget to spray the "door open" button
with some WD-40 so that it will tell the
lights that the door is open.
Sometimes you need to take off the cover plate and make
sure the switch
operates with no fuss. This also has issues if you open a door
and
throw in your coat and then close the door but the car never realized the
door was
opened - and it locks your coat inside with your keys. Don't
ask me how I know that.
- --Flash!
"Jim W" scribbled this in
electronic crayon:
> > Interesting problem, the red lights in the
doors come
> > on when I open the door but none of the interior
>
> lights do. I thought there was only one
> > switch for all
the lights. Am I missing a door
> > switch or is there a relay
problem?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2003 20:03:33
-0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt D" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: Team3S:
RE: 3S-Racers: 25-hour Enduro Race at Thunderhill - Photos
Updated...
Yeah, congrats to all of you, great job.
"Severe
Endurance Racing" OK, but 2004 will demand "Extreme
Endurance
Racing"
..and if on the planet includes Ozzieland, well maybe
Bathurst has you
beat,
but only by a smidgeon. Yeah, I know its only a
measly 24 hr race, but
still..
Kurt
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-3sracers@speedtoys.com
[mailto:owner-3sracers@speedtoys.com]
On Behalf Of Bob Forrest
Sent:
Wednesday, December 17, 2003 2:53 PM
To:
Team3S@Team3S.comCc: Team3S
Racers
Subject: 3S-Racers: 25-hour Enduro Race at Thunderhill -
Photos
Updated...
I still haven't finished writing a complete Race
Report for the Team3S
website, since I spent all of last week down with
flu... But I've just
updated the page with my photographs of our
participation at the 25
Hours of Thunderhill - "the longest and most
demanding endurance race on
the planet"!
www.Team3S.com/Enduro2003/25hourPix.htmThanks
go out one more time to our absolutely *amazing*
"Team3S NASA BBQ Crew" - and
our car #33! ;-)
The Drivers: Ed Gaven, Eileen Thomas
("E.T."), Erick Van Waganen, Jeff
Mohler, Steve Romine, and Tommy
Lo.
The Pit Crew: Anissa Mohler, Ann Koch, Bill Ashurst, Bob
Forrest, Bonni
Weatherwax, George Morrill, Jim Bucha, Linda Romine, Mario
Lento, Ron
Bertolone, and Vern Roberts.
The Mascots: Katie
Mohler and Victor Romine.
And special thanks to our $ponsors and
$upporters:
www.Reno-FernleyRaceway.com,
www.SFClubs.com,
www.SpeedToys.com, Philip
Glazatov, Kurt
Zobel, and Jesse Rink, and, of course, E.T.'s "The Next
Level" driving
school, linked at
www.GoneRacing.com...; to
Albert
Butterfield, Mike Brunelle, Donna Harris and Vicman Ng (who did most
of
the work on our car #33) from the Metric Motorsports Team (1st Place
the
25-hour Enduro E3 class) for their assistance at the track and the
use
of their trailer, to Donny Edwards of the Factory Five Racing West
Team,
to Dave Brown of the No Hurry Racing Team (2nd Place the 25-hour
Enduro
E2 class), to NASA NorCal Director Jerry Kunzman, and to SO many
other
friends who helped us along the way...
Thanks to all who
contributed to this effort - for your assistance, for
your dedication, and
most of all..., thank you for your friendship!
Best,
Bob
Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2003 23:40:41
-0600
From: "Dan Hyde" <
danielhyde@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: VR4 ride height measurments and Tein Flex install
experience
Based on information flow (thus far) concerning ride
height, it strikes me
that the factory designed "stance" for the 3000GT
is to be somewhat higher
in the rear (between 1"-2").
Would this have
been done to create a front to rear weight distribution that
possibly should
be maintained when one lowers the vehicle?
The effect of suspension
height on weight distribution is fundamentally what
I'm interested to try and
figure out. I am now essentially level front to
rear. I don't road race
and I've not had a chance to go to my favorite
abandoned lot to test the
effects of this recent suspension change (for
oversteer, understeer
behaviors). I will test eventually so I don't "find
out" the hard way during
some unplanned day-to-day driving event.
Yesterday, I did romp on her pretty
hard from a stop while turning to scoot
ahead of some oncoming traffic and
found myself a bit sideways for a spell -
mostly oversteer with all 4's
pawing. This has happened before but
infrequently on good and dry
roads.
Dan
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Zobel, Kurt
D" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
<snip>
I
do recall 27 to 27 1/4 being stock on the front, not sure on rear.
It may be
a tad lower with the GC's on my VR4, but its on jacks right
now
so I
couldn't measure.
I think the NA is very close to TT in stock ride
height.
My NA is currently 26.5 front and 28.5 rear. I have 245/45-16 front
(1
in lower
than stock) 255/50-16 on the rear (1/2 inch taller than
stock).
<snip>
From: Dan Hyde
I installed Tein Flex on
my 97 VR4 today but before starting I measured
"ride height" with the idea
that I should attempt to maintain the
"relative to stock" front to rear
weight distribution. To my dismay, I
found variance in the measured height
between front and rear and also
left to
right.
<snip>
Measured:
LR - 27 1/4" (69.22 cm)
RR - 27 1/2"
(69.85 cm)
LF - 28 1/8" (71.44 cm)
RF - 28 3/8" (72.08 cm)
I was a
bit surprised with the delta between front and rear
measurements
<snip>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2003 21:26:00
-0700
From: "Erik Petterson" <
erik@microworks.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: interior lights
Yep, same problem with my passenger door.
Door opens and red light comes
on, but when I jiggle the door jam switch then
the dome lights will come on
too.
I guess you can jiggle/pull on that
door jam switch and see if they come on,
if so it might be dirty, if not then
it might be the aforementioned ETACS
unit.
- -Erik
'94 R/T
-
----- Original Message -----
> I thought there was only one
>
switch for all the lights.
> The 2nd gen cars have 2 switches in one
unit for the door switch - one is
for the door light, and one is for the
ETACS unit.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Dec 2003 01:18:12
-0500
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
philip@supercar-engineering.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: VR4 ride height measurments and Tein Flex install
experience
The effect of ride height on static front/rear weight
distribution is
negligible. The car does not tip forward or backward enough
to move the
C.G. any closer to either end by any significant
measure.
The lower the car the lower the dynamic longitudinal weight
transfer is and
the better the handling becomes. The even greater effect
comes from the
reduced lateral weight transfer. In both cases, the lower -
the better. The
only aspect that suffers a little is braking because on
lower cars the
front wheels do not get as much dynamic weight transfer and
they lock up a
little too early.
That said, I try to lower the car
approximately the same amount front and
rear. That has more to do with the
suspension geometry, camber changes,
underbody aerodynamics, ets. On our
cars the best way, I figured so far, is
to keep the car
level.
Philip
http://supercar-engineering.comAt
12:40 AM 12/18/2003, Dan Hyde wrote:
>The effect of suspension height on
weight distribution is fundamentally what
>I'm interested to try and
figure out.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Dec 2003 01:25:32
EST
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
Rim Recall/ 3/S gathering
-
--part1_77.1edf7d71.2d12a25c_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
2 questions. .
.
1-Is there an east coast 3/S meeting? if so where?
2- If anyone
has had any problems with there 97-98 style rims please let me
know off
list. If enough of us bitch, Mitsu might just do something about it.
Chrome
SL or even Chrome VR-4 rims. I must now put air in the tires every week
because they now leak so badly.
thank you-
Mike
97
SL
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Dec 2003 03:36:32
-0500
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
philip@supercar-engineering.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Rim Recall/ 3/S gathering
What you can do
is take your rims to a tire shop, ask them to dismount the
tires and remove
all the flaking chrome from the tire bead seats. The
flaking chrome could be
removed with a rust stripping disk from a hardware
store. It looks like a
very coarse spounge with sand imbedded into it and
it is inserted into an
electric hand-held drill. I have a Norton Rapid
Strip, item #01220, for
$4.80 from Home Depot but similar stripping disks
would work just as well.
It only takes about 5 minutes per tire (plus $25
to dismount/mount,
eh).
Philip
http://supercar-engineering.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Dec 2003 22:26:18
+1100
From: "Joel Singh" <
joelsingh@primus.com.au>
Subject:
Team3S: ECU wiring diagram
I'm looking for a wiring diagram of the ECU,
where can I find it.
Or if someones got it can they email to me
please.
Also is the ECU failing problem common. What would have caused it to
burn
out.
Don't want to put a new one in, and burning that as well. all I
did was
start the car, it stalled right away, then started to smoke
from behind the
dash, it smelt real bad.
I removed the ECU to see it was
burnt, the cap had poped.
Any response would be appreciated. Anyway thinking
of putting in a motec
stand alone system. anyone fitted one
before..
Joel.
92 GTO VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Dec 2003 18:22:05
-0000
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: interior lights
%%%%%
Yep, same problem with my passenger
door. Door opens and red light comes
on, but when I jiggle the door jam
switch then the dome lights will come on
too.
%%%%%
And I have the
opposite problem on the driver's side... the dome light comes
on but not the
red door light, unless I wiggle the switch. :-) I'll try
the
WD-40 idea, thanks.
- - --
Jim Matthews - Yorkshire, England
mailto:jim@the-matthews.comhttp://www.the-matthews.com
*** Team3S, 3SI #0030, GTOUK #155 ***
http://www.the-matthews.com/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V2
#325
***************************************