Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, December 17 2003 Volume 02 : Number 324
 
 
 
----------------------------------------------------------------------
 
 
 
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 02:07:59 -0700
 
From: "Donald Ashby" <dashbyiii@mho.com>
 
Subject: Team3S: Good datalogging cables on ebay
 
 
 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=43989&item=2448738982
 
He currently has 3 for sale, has auto-on and doesn't need a power tap, he's sold a good couple dozen cables from looking at his feedback. I'm in the process of getting one from him. Thought I would pass it on
 
 
 
Donald Ashby
 
'93 3000GT VR-4 (RIP)
 
'92 3000GT VR-4 (Vroom!)
 
"Don't drink and park, accidents cause people!"
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
------------------------------
 
 
 
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 05:42:05 -0800
 
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@cox.net>
 
Subject: Re: Team3S: Good datalogging cables on ebay
 
 
 
I appreciate an update when you get the cable --- does it have the same features
 
as the 'old' data logger ???
 
 
 
        Jim Berry
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
------------------------------
 
 
 
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 09:18:43 -0500
 
From: Joseph Spainhour <spainhou@bellsouth.net>
 
Subject: Re: Team3S: Good datalogging cables on ebay
 
 
 
Why doesn't someone post the pinouts to these cable and we can all just
 
build our own. After all, the software is free.
 
 
 
93KGT VR4
 
Joseph
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
------------------------------
 
 
 
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 08:29:22 -0600
 
From: "cody" <overclck@satx.rr.com>
 
Subject: RE: Team3S: Good datalogging cables on ebay
 
 
 
It's more than just wires, in my TMO cable, there is actually an EEPROM
 
built into the connector, and as these are "smart" cables, on ebay, I
 
would assume the same of them...
 
 
 
- -Cody
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
------------------------------
 
 
 
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 14:44:31 -0000
 
From: "Jeff Lucius" <jlucius@stealth316.com>
 
Subject: Re: Team3S: Good datalogging cables on ebay
 
 
 
It is posted (and has been for quite a while). I note both urls below in the "Datalogging" section on the Links Page at my web site.
 
 
 
http://co.dsm.org/tech/1G_dl_sch.html
 
http://mmcd.meditprofi.ru/
 
 
 
Yes, you can build your own. But it won't be like the "auto turn on" one made by MC below that does not cause the ABS diagnostic mode.
 
 
 
Pre-made cables: http://automotive.miragecorp.com/
 
 
 
Jeff Lucius, http://www.stealth316.com/
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
------------------------------
 
 
 
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 15:47:39 +0100
 
From: "Roger Gerl" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
 
Subject: Re: Team3S: Good datalogging cables on ebay
 
 
 
You must have something really strange ! There is nothing in the TMO cable
 
than a resistor in the connector to the diagnostic port. The good thing is
 
that the TMO cable can simply plugged in as it comes with a "quasi"
 
connector while the others just have pins that have to be connected to each
 
pin at the port.
 
 
 
The "smart" cables do not have any EEPROM (what the heck woudl it do ????)
 
on it but a timer or whatever to prevent the ABS lock out during logging.
 
How do you know it's an EEPROM ? Send us the type of the chip, we'll fidn
 
out easily.
 
 
 
It is also possible that some cables do have optocouplers built in for
 
safety, not really necessary for this application.
 
 
 
The cable on ebay is a normal one with the ABS still on feature. A little
 
expensive for just a cable
 
 
 
Roger G.
 
93 & 96 3000GT TT
 
www.rtec.ch
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
------------------------------
 
 
 
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 07:48:55 -0800
 
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@cox.net>
 
Subject: Re: Team3S: Good datalogging cables on ebay
 
 
 
My TMO cable has a chip of some kind in the connector --- I just assumed it to be
 
a PIC chip or some such programmable control device. IIRC the lable on the chip
 
was removed to prevent identification ?!?!?!
 
 
 
        Jim Berry
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
------------------------------
 
 
 
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 17:03:20 +0100
 
From: "Roger Gerl" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
 
Subject: Re: Team3S: Good datalogging cables on ebay
 
 
 
It's just a level converter, that's all. Not really necessary.
 
 
 
Roger G
 
93 & 96 3000GT TT
 
www.rtec.ch
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
------------------------------
 
 
 
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 10:12:22 -0600
 
From: "Mohammad Farooqi" <MFarooqi@Insight.com>
 
Subject: Team3S: no spark in cylinder 3 and 6
 
 
 
Hi Team3s!!
 
 
 
I have no spark in Cylinder number 3 and 6. I have replaced the ignition coils
 
and the power transistor unit but the problem remains that there is no spark in cylinder 3 and 6. Also replaced all spark plugs and ignition wires. Still the same problem. Even thou the 2 cylinders are not firing, the engine should turn over...or am I wrong to think that?
 
 
 
PLEASE HELP!!  Would also love to hear any suggestions you guys might have on what to try next.
 
 
 
Thanks
 
Mohammad
 
Network Engineer
 
Advanced Integration Lab
 
Insight Ent. Inc.
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
------------------------------
 
 
 
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 10:37:32 -0600
 
From: "Mohammad Farooqi" <MFarooqi@Insight.com>
 
Subject: RE: Team3S: no spark in cylinder 3 and 6
 
 
 
I had driven the car for about an hour. After about half an hour, I went back out to start the car and it ran rough. I knew that one or more cylinders were not firing. So I gave it a little
 
gas to see it might start things up right while it was running rough. But it kept running
 
rough for about 5 minutes...then it died. SO I crank the engine again and it starts up but
 
still running rough. It ran rough for about 15 secs the second time and died. Third time and
 
there after, it tries to turn over...almost does..but never quite does. I know the starter
 
the battery and the alternator are all in very well condition. I had the battery charged just
 
incase I had drained it trying to start the car a million times. But it still does not turn
 
over. I used my Multimeter to measure resistence on the ignition coils and tested the PTU.
 
Both came up as within specs but I still went ahead and got new ones. The problem was exactly
 
the same...3 & 6 not firing and the engine won't turn over. I checked to see if there is gas
 
in the car...and I have about 1/4 in the tank. I even tried to spray stater fluid in the
 
intake to start it but it did not have any change in the situtation. The spark plugs were
 
replaced less than 13 months and have less than 9,000 miles on them along with the spark
 
plug wires. But I still went ahead and changed them again (plugs + wires) to see if it would
 
help. It does get cold here in Chicago but my car in my garage...so fuel freezing is not an
 
option.
 
 
 
Mohammad
 
95 3000gt
 
68,000 miles
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
------------------------------
 
 
 
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 10:51:57 -0600
 
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
 
Subject: RE: Team3S: no spark in cylinder 3 and 6
 
 
 
did you perform the 60K maintenance?
 
have you checked your ECU to see if the electrolytic capacitors have leaked?
 
 
 
Chuck Willis
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
------------------------------
 
 
 
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 12:52:47 -0500
 
From: "Gene Calarco" <gac@clifton.ds.adp.com>
 
Subject: RE: Team3S: Good datalogging cables on ebay
 
 
 
> So how do we make our own cable with no extra chip, and instant on, and no
 
> ABS diagnostics? with an rs-232 at the laptop side if the price seems high
 
> for the ebay cable.  Does anyone have the pin/connector setup?
 
>
 
> Gene
 
> 92'DOHC NT
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
------------------------------
 
 
 
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 12:07:58 -0600
 
From: "Mohammad Farooqi" <MFarooqi@Insight.com>
 
Subject: RE: Team3S: no spark in cylinder 3 and 6
 
 
 
Jim: I did unhook the neg from the battery to reset the ECU....still the same problem with
 
  the engine cranking but not turning over. Also still no spark in 3 & 6. I have not looked
 
  at the cams yet to see if they line up. Will do that and see what happens..thanks. I am
 
  trying to put the ECU trouble shooting as a last resort. I want to checkout all other
 
  options before I mess with the ECU.
 
 
 
Charles: Yes...the 60K has been done at 61K. Replaced the timing belt, water pump (leaking),
 
  plugs and wires. Oil changes on my car are at every 2000 miles instead of 3000. I use
 
  either penn, mobil or valvaline 10w-30 non-syn. Replaced the trans oil (stick shift) with
 
  a syn oil..forgot what brand it was..even thou manual trans oils don't need to be changed.
 
  I will check out the ECU and see if the 3 caps are leaking or not...but will do this as
 
  the last thing before I take it to my local Mitsubish dealer (most uncooperative and rude
 
  and an idot) to be chopped open. Talking to the dealer, he is trying to tell me that my
 
  car uses a distributor instead of ignition coils....and when I told him different, he tells
 
  me to bring it in so they can look at it. Maybe this is the way they get business!!
 
 
 
Nouveau3: I will check the CAS (I think you mean the Crank sensor). Can you please tell
 
  me what I should be looking for to check if it is faulty...also I have no idea where it
 
  is located. Thanks.
 
 
 
Mohammad
 
95 3000gt
 
68,000 miles
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
------------------------------
 
 
 
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 17:05:02 +0700
 
From: "CV. Duta Karya Teknik" <dutakt@sby.centrin.net.id>
 
Subject: Team3S: NEED INFO
 
 
 
Hi Guys,
 
 
 
I checked my Mitsu firing at 20 degree BTDC, because of that the car could
 
not run powerful. I tried to set up at 5 degree BTDC but the engine always
 
knocking.
 
 
 
Could you advice me how to reset and set correctly or should I overhaul the
 
cylinder head to clean any carbon in it.
 
 
 
Regards,
 
Harijanto
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
------------------------------
 
 
 
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 21:36:53 -0600
 
From: "Jesse Rink" <jrink@w3si.org>
 
Subject: Team3S: squeeking after 2-piece cfds install
 
 
 
Go figure.... I'm just not having any luck lately.
 
 
 
Backgroud info:
 
Back in September I installed a 1-piece CFDS (replaced the stock 3-piece
 
unit).  Had problems with vibration about 85mph so I returned it in favor of
 
the 2-piece CFDS.  While waiting for the 2-piece CFDS to arrive I sold my
 
stock 3-piece unit to a guy in town.  Fast foward to 10 days ago when my new
 
2-piece unit finally arrived.  During installing I noticed that the rubber
 
insultators and other mounting hardware for the center carrier was not
 
included.  PST says you should use the old insulators and spacers from the
 
stock unit, but I already sold mine so I had to buy these parts from Mitsu.
 
No problem, I ordered them up and they arrived the other day.  Tonight I
 
installed the 2 piece CFDS.  Installation seemed to go fine.  The 2-piece
 
unit replaces the entire 3-piece stock DS and has 1 center carrier bearing.
 
 
 
Problem:
 
After installing it I made it about 100 feet down the right when I started
 
hearing a squeeking/rubbing noise from the car.  I was maybe going 20mph
 
TOPS when it happened. I turned around in a driveway and went home.  I
 
noticed the squeeking more, anytime I'm going more than a few mph's. It's
 
hard to determine where the noise is coming from because I'm trying to watch
 
the road when driving instead of putting my head down listening for noises,
 
heh.  BUT... It sounds like its coming from right underneath the car at the
 
center bearing.  I dont know WHY it would make a noise.  The bearing just
 
sits in a piece of rubber inside the mount for holding it underneath the
 
car.  I need to find out what this noise is...  My only thoughts are:  a)
 
jack the entire car off the ground on stands, and manually spin the wheels
 
trying to duplicate the noise and find out where it's coming from, or b)
 
jack the entire car off the ground on stands, start the car and give it a
 
little gas in gear to help determine where the noise is coming from with
 
someone listening outside the car.
 
 
 
Option B scares me and seems unsafe - I don't think it's a good choice....
 
Option A seems good, but I'm not sure i can spin the wheels fast enough by
 
hand to duplicate the noise.  The carrier bearing seemed to spin fine on its
 
own prior to installation... Didn't notice anything out of the ordinary.
 
 
 
I also had new rims put on since getting my new driveshaft, but the noise
 
didnt SEEM to come from a wheel, it sounded like it was right underneath the
 
center console.   The squeeking/rubbing was the only problem, the car seemed
 
to ride fine... It wasn't rough and I couldn't detect any vibration -
 
granted I topped out at 20mph before going home.
 
 
 
What are some things I can try here?  I'm getting SO tired of driveshaft
 
problems...  My stock driveshaft needed to be replaced due to causing false
 
engine knock and that problem disappeared with the 1 piece CFDS, however I
 
wasn't able to reduce the vibration to an acceptable level so I went with
 
the 2 piece unit.  Now I'm still having problems, ARGH.   On top of all
 
that, I'm trying to get the damn car finished so I can winterize it for the
 
next few months, but I want to solve my DS problem before I do that.
 
 
 
Anyways, thoughts on option A or B..... or possibly C?
 
 
 
Frustrated,
 
Jesse Rink
 
Eagle, WI
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
------------------------------
 
 
 
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 22:20:09 -0600
 
From: "steve ludi" <sl10110@alltel.net>
 
Subject: Team3S: 1993 stealth R/T n/a
 
 
 
Happy Holidays to all:  This morning got in the car for my daily drive here
 
in chilly Nebraska, turned the key car turned over but quit, thought I might
 
not have the clutch down far enough, tried again, same thing, made sure
 
clutch was fully engaged tried a third time car started, pulled out of the
 
garageand car died , everything went completely off. My first thought was
 
the battery because this no power thing has happened before. I tightened the
 
battery connection after disconnecting the neg. terminal and that did it.
 
Lately, however I've noticed that upon initially starting my voltmeter has
 
been charging at above15V but after driving drops back to 14V and stays
 
there for the duration of the drive. So I was thinking that the battery was
 
going bad. Today I replaced the battery but I still have no power,no door
 
lights or anything else electrical that works. I  replaced the ECU
 
capacitors about 6 months ago. I've checked the archives but am really
 
stumped what to ask for in my search. I've tried no electrical(power), car
 
won't start, no ECU but can't find anything. I guess I just need a starting
 
place and go from there.Tomorrow I will check the battery cables corrosion.
 
Any other help on this matter will be greatly appreciated. Thanks to all in
 
advance Steve
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
------------------------------
 
 
 
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 23:54:01 -0600
 
From: "Jesse Rink" <jrink@w3si.org>
 
Subject: Team3S: Re: squeeking after 2-piece cfds install
 
 
 
Followup:
 
 
 
I'm starting to think Mitsu did NOT give me enough spacers/insulators for
 
the carrier mount.   This is what they gave me:
 
 
 
(2) MB505283 (upper insulator)
 
(2) MB505284 (lower insulator)
 
(2) MB505658 (spacer)
 
(2) MB445005 (locking nut)
 
 
 
It seems like I'm missing something - what, I'm not sure...   when looking
 
in the repair manual it seems like there should be MORE.  Again, this is
 
only for ONE carrier mount..  but I still think I'm short on parts... which
 
may be the reason I'm my CFDS 2-piece is making noise cause its not lined up
 
correctly...  Just a thought, I could be off base here.  If anyone can tell
 
me for sure WHICH parts #s I need and HOW MANY for a single carrier mount,
 
that would really help.  OR if anyone has a STOCK DS laying around, that
 
they could just look at it and tell me, that would be great, thanks.
 
 
 
Jesse Rink
 
Eagle, WI
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
------------------------------
 
 
 
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2003 08:46:42 -0500
 
From: "Shafi Farhud" <ShafiF@spc-volta.com>
 
Subject: Team3S: Why my car is loosing power?
 
 
 
Hi all,
 
 
 
I have a 1992 mits.3000Gt SL and recently i felt the car is loosing power! I
 
changed the plugs, wires, timing belt, coils, modul, air filter and also
 
keep good oil maintenance but the car is still low on mileage and loosing
 
power.
 
The smoke from the exhaust also smells very strong, like the gas is not
 
totally burned!
 
I do not have any check engine light on or other. What should i do?
 
 
 
Sincerely,
 
Shafi F.
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
------------------------------
 
 
 
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2 #324
 
***************************************