Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, December 17 2003 Volume 02 : Number
324
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Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 02:07:59 -0700
Subject: Team3S: Good datalogging cables on ebay
He currently has 3 for sale, has auto-on and doesn't need a power tap, he's
sold a good couple dozen cables from looking at his feedback. I'm in the process
of getting one from him. Thought I would pass it on
Donald Ashby
'93 3000GT VR-4 (RIP)
'92 3000GT VR-4 (Vroom!)
"Don't drink and park, accidents cause people!"
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Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 05:42:05 -0800
Subject: Re: Team3S: Good datalogging cables on ebay
I appreciate an update when you get the cable --- does it have the same
features
as the 'old' data logger ???
Jim Berry
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Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 09:18:43 -0500
Subject: Re: Team3S: Good datalogging cables on ebay
Why doesn't someone post the pinouts to these cable and we can all just
build our own. After all, the software is free.
93KGT VR4
Joseph
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Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 08:29:22 -0600
Subject: RE: Team3S: Good datalogging cables on ebay
It's more than just wires, in my TMO cable, there is actually an
EEPROM
built into the connector, and as these are "smart" cables, on ebay, I
would assume the same of them...
- -Cody
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Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 14:44:31 -0000
Subject: Re: Team3S: Good datalogging cables on ebay
It is posted (and has been for quite a while). I note both urls below in
the "Datalogging" section on the Links Page at my web site.
Yes, you can build your own. But it won't be like the "auto turn on" one
made by MC below that does not cause the ABS diagnostic mode.
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Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 15:47:39 +0100
Subject: Re: Team3S: Good datalogging cables on ebay
You must have something really strange ! There is nothing in the TMO
cable
than a resistor in the connector to the diagnostic port. The good thing
is
that the TMO cable can simply plugged in as it comes with a "quasi"
connector while the others just have pins that have to be connected to
each
pin at the port.
The "smart" cables do not have any EEPROM (what the heck woudl it do
????)
on it but a timer or whatever to prevent the ABS lock out during
logging.
How do you know it's an EEPROM ? Send us the type of the chip, we'll
fidn
out easily.
It is also possible that some cables do have optocouplers built in
for
safety, not really necessary for this application.
The cable on ebay is a normal one with the ABS still on feature. A
little
expensive for just a cable
Roger G.
93 & 96 3000GT TT
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Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 07:48:55 -0800
Subject: Re: Team3S: Good datalogging cables on ebay
My TMO cable has a chip of some kind in the connector --- I just assumed it
to be
a PIC chip or some such programmable control device. IIRC the lable on the
chip
was removed to prevent identification ?!?!?!
Jim Berry
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Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 17:03:20 +0100
Subject: Re: Team3S: Good datalogging cables on ebay
It's just a level converter, that's all. Not really necessary.
Roger G
93 & 96 3000GT TT
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Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 10:12:22 -0600
Subject: Team3S: no spark in cylinder 3 and 6
Hi Team3s!!
I have no spark in Cylinder number 3 and 6. I have replaced the ignition
coils
and the power transistor unit but the problem remains that there is no
spark in cylinder 3 and 6. Also replaced all spark plugs and ignition wires.
Still the same problem. Even thou the 2 cylinders are not firing, the engine
should turn over...or am I wrong to think that?
PLEASE HELP!! Would also love to hear any suggestions you guys might
have on what to try next.
Thanks
Mohammad
Network Engineer
Advanced Integration Lab
Insight Ent. Inc.
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Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 10:37:32 -0600
Subject: RE: Team3S: no spark in cylinder 3 and 6
I had driven the car for about an hour. After about half an hour, I went
back out to start the car and it ran rough. I knew that one or more cylinders
were not firing. So I gave it a little
gas to see it might start things up right while it was running rough. But
it kept running
rough for about 5 minutes...then it died. SO I crank the engine again and
it starts up but
still running rough. It ran rough for about 15 secs the second time and
died. Third time and
there after, it tries to turn over...almost does..but never quite does. I
know the starter
the battery and the alternator are all in very well condition. I had the
battery charged just
incase I had drained it trying to start the car a million times. But it
still does not turn
over. I used my Multimeter to measure resistence on the ignition coils and
tested the PTU.
Both came up as within specs but I still went ahead and got new ones. The
problem was exactly
the same...3 & 6 not firing and the engine won't turn over. I checked
to see if there is gas
in the car...and I have about 1/4 in the tank. I even tried to spray stater
fluid in the
intake to start it but it did not have any change in the situtation. The
spark plugs were
replaced less than 13 months and have less than 9,000 miles on them along
with the spark
plug wires. But I still went ahead and changed them again (plugs + wires)
to see if it would
help. It does get cold here in Chicago but my car in my garage...so fuel
freezing is not an
option.
Mohammad
95 3000gt
68,000 miles
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Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 10:51:57 -0600
Subject: RE: Team3S: no spark in cylinder 3 and 6
did you perform the 60K maintenance?
have you checked your ECU to see if the electrolytic capacitors have
leaked?
Chuck Willis
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Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 12:52:47 -0500
Subject: RE: Team3S: Good datalogging cables on ebay
> So how do we make our own cable with no extra chip, and instant on,
and no
> ABS diagnostics? with an rs-232 at the laptop side if the price seems
high
> for the ebay cable. Does anyone have the pin/connector
setup?
>
> Gene
> 92'DOHC NT
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Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 12:07:58 -0600
Subject: RE: Team3S: no spark in cylinder 3 and 6
Jim: I did unhook the neg from the battery to reset the ECU....still the
same problem with
the engine cranking but not turning over. Also still no spark in 3
& 6. I have not looked
at the cams yet to see if they line up. Will do that and see what
happens..thanks. I am
trying to put the ECU trouble shooting as a last resort. I want to
checkout all other
options before I mess with the ECU.
Charles: Yes...the 60K has been done at 61K. Replaced the timing belt,
water pump (leaking),
plugs and wires. Oil changes on my car are at every 2000 miles
instead of 3000. I use
either penn, mobil or valvaline 10w-30 non-syn. Replaced the trans
oil (stick shift) with
a syn oil..forgot what brand it was..even thou manual trans oils
don't need to be changed.
I will check out the ECU and see if the 3 caps are leaking or
not...but will do this as
the last thing before I take it to my local Mitsubish dealer (most
uncooperative and rude
and an idot) to be chopped open. Talking to the dealer, he is trying
to tell me that my
car uses a distributor instead of ignition coils....and when I told
him different, he tells
me to bring it in so they can look at it. Maybe this is the way they
get business!!
Nouveau3: I will check the CAS (I think you mean the Crank sensor). Can you
please tell
me what I should be looking for to check if it is faulty...also I
have no idea where it
is located. Thanks.
Mohammad
95 3000gt
68,000 miles
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Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 17:05:02 +0700
Subject: Team3S: NEED INFO
Hi Guys,
I checked my Mitsu firing at 20 degree BTDC, because of that the car
could
not run powerful. I tried to set up at 5 degree BTDC but the engine
always
knocking.
Could you advice me how to reset and set correctly or should I overhaul
the
cylinder head to clean any carbon in it.
Regards,
Harijanto
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Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 21:36:53 -0600
Subject: Team3S: squeeking after 2-piece cfds install
Go figure.... I'm just not having any luck lately.
Backgroud info:
Back in September I installed a 1-piece CFDS (replaced the stock
3-piece
unit). Had problems with vibration about 85mph so I returned it in
favor of
the 2-piece CFDS. While waiting for the 2-piece CFDS to arrive I sold
my
stock 3-piece unit to a guy in town. Fast foward to 10 days ago when
my new
2-piece unit finally arrived. During installing I noticed that the
rubber
insultators and other mounting hardware for the center carrier was
not
included. PST says you should use the old insulators and spacers from
the
stock unit, but I already sold mine so I had to buy these parts from
Mitsu.
No problem, I ordered them up and they arrived the other day. Tonight
I
installed the 2 piece CFDS. Installation seemed to go fine. The
2-piece
unit replaces the entire 3-piece stock DS and has 1 center carrier
bearing.
Problem:
After installing it I made it about 100 feet down the right when I
started
hearing a squeeking/rubbing noise from the car. I was maybe going
20mph
TOPS when it happened. I turned around in a driveway and went home.
I
noticed the squeeking more, anytime I'm going more than a few mph's.
It's
hard to determine where the noise is coming from because I'm trying to
watch
the road when driving instead of putting my head down listening for
noises,
heh. BUT... It sounds like its coming from right underneath the car
at the
center bearing. I dont know WHY it would make a noise. The
bearing just
sits in a piece of rubber inside the mount for holding it underneath
the
car. I need to find out what this noise is... My only thoughts
are: a)
jack the entire car off the ground on stands, and manually spin the
wheels
trying to duplicate the noise and find out where it's coming from, or
b)
jack the entire car off the ground on stands, start the car and give it
a
little gas in gear to help determine where the noise is coming from
with
someone listening outside the car.
Option B scares me and seems unsafe - I don't think it's a good
choice....
Option A seems good, but I'm not sure i can spin the wheels fast enough
by
hand to duplicate the noise. The carrier bearing seemed to spin fine
on its
own prior to installation... Didn't notice anything out of the
ordinary.
I also had new rims put on since getting my new driveshaft, but the
noise
didnt SEEM to come from a wheel, it sounded like it was right underneath
the
center console. The squeeking/rubbing was the only problem, the
car seemed
to ride fine... It wasn't rough and I couldn't detect any vibration -
granted I topped out at 20mph before going home.
What are some things I can try here? I'm getting SO tired of
driveshaft
problems... My stock driveshaft needed to be replaced due to causing
false
engine knock and that problem disappeared with the 1 piece CFDS, however
I
wasn't able to reduce the vibration to an acceptable level so I went
with
the 2 piece unit. Now I'm still having problems, ARGH. On
top of all
that, I'm trying to get the damn car finished so I can winterize it for
the
next few months, but I want to solve my DS problem before I do that.
Anyways, thoughts on option A or B..... or possibly C?
Frustrated,
Jesse Rink
Eagle, WI
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Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 22:20:09 -0600
Subject: Team3S: 1993 stealth R/T n/a
Happy Holidays to all: This morning got in the car for my daily drive
here
in chilly Nebraska, turned the key car turned over but quit, thought I
might
not have the clutch down far enough, tried again, same thing, made
sure
clutch was fully engaged tried a third time car started, pulled out of
the
garageand car died , everything went completely off. My first thought
was
the battery because this no power thing has happened before. I tightened
the
battery connection after disconnecting the neg. terminal and that did
it.
Lately, however I've noticed that upon initially starting my voltmeter
has
been charging at above15V but after driving drops back to 14V and
stays
there for the duration of the drive. So I was thinking that the battery
was
going bad. Today I replaced the battery but I still have no power,no
door
lights or anything else electrical that works. I replaced the
ECU
capacitors about 6 months ago. I've checked the archives but am
really
stumped what to ask for in my search. I've tried no electrical(power),
car
won't start, no ECU but can't find anything. I guess I just need a
starting
place and go from there.Tomorrow I will check the battery cables
corrosion.
Any other help on this matter will be greatly appreciated. Thanks to all
in
advance Steve
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Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 23:54:01 -0600
Subject: Team3S: Re: squeeking after 2-piece cfds install
Followup:
I'm starting to think Mitsu did NOT give me enough spacers/insulators
for
the carrier mount. This is what they gave me:
(2) MB505283 (upper insulator)
(2) MB505284 (lower insulator)
(2) MB505658 (spacer)
(2) MB445005 (locking nut)
It seems like I'm missing something - what, I'm not sure...
when looking
in the repair manual it seems like there should be MORE. Again, this
is
only for ONE carrier mount.. but I still think I'm short on parts...
which
may be the reason I'm my CFDS 2-piece is making noise cause its not lined
up
correctly... Just a thought, I could be off base here. If
anyone can tell
me for sure WHICH parts #s I need and HOW MANY for a single carrier
mount,
that would really help. OR if anyone has a STOCK DS laying around,
that
they could just look at it and tell me, that would be great, thanks.
Jesse Rink
Eagle, WI
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Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2003 08:46:42 -0500
Subject: Team3S: Why my car is loosing power?
Hi all,
I have a 1992 mits.3000Gt SL and recently i felt the car is loosing power!
I
changed the plugs, wires, timing belt, coils, modul, air filter and
also
keep good oil maintenance but the car is still low on mileage and
loosing
power.
The smoke from the exhaust also smells very strong, like the gas is
not
totally burned!
I do not have any check engine light on or other. What should i do?
Sincerely,
Shafi F.
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2 #324
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