Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, December 10 2003 Volume 02 : Number
319
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2003 14:32:03 -0800
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: IAC
"Immediately as the engine starts cranking, the injectors operate in
"batch"
mode. All injectors activate simultaneously in synchronization with
the CAS
signal for each cylinder until the CAS for cylinder No. 1 is
detected. The
activation duration is not described in the manuals. As soon as
the No. 1
cylinder CAS signal is detected, simultaneous injection stops and
sequential
injection begins if the engine is warm (determined from the engine
coolant
temperature sensor). If the engine is cold then simultaneous rather
than
sequential injection continues as explained in the next section."
I have a '92 car with the adjustable CAS. There are 2 ways for the CAS to
go
in and there are marks, one on the CAS and one on the cam. On all 3 sets
of
heads and 4 sets of cams that I own I cannot for the life of me find
the
mark that it is talking about, so I have always taken the 50/50 approach
to
the problem. Having as our car fires two sparks (wasted spark), putting
the
CAS in backwards should not effect ignition. However, reading over the
above
information makes me think if my CAS may be in backwards. Using the
above
information, if the CAS is in backwards two things can happen. A) the
car
will be unable to find the #1 cylinder and it will be stuck on
permanent
"batch mode"; or B) which is more likely, the injectors will not
spray at
the right time when it goes to "sequential mode" causing
issues.
What can I look at on the car with the datalogger or any other common
tool
to verify that the CAS is in correctly?
Mind ya, the car runs fine once it warms up so I am at a loss as to
my
issue.
Tyson
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 09 Dec 2003 14:50:01 -0800
From: "John A. Tabler" <
jtabler@summitmicro.com>
Subject:
Team3S: flashing sport/tour lights
Hi All,
Several times recently I have seen my green "SPORT" and "TOUR"
suspension lights blinking at about 1Hz (It's a 92 VR4). I have
noticed
this soon after starting the car. Switching the car off
and re
starting seems to make the symptom go away.
Any experience with this symptom?
Thanks
JAT
------------------------------
FAQ
Probably a loose connection on one of the
struts.
If it persists, you can read the error code to localize the
offending corner, or other component. When the fault is corrected, the flashing
stops and the error code is erased.
Chuck Willis
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2003 17:24:46 -0700
From: "Trevor James" <
trevorlj@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Coolant temp
I use 221F for my "shut it down" max and warning level for my guage. I
chose
that because it is when the computer is programmed to turn both fans
on
high...mitsu must have decided 221 is the max for a reason.
Trevor
96 R/T TT
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2003 18:58:50 -0600
From: "Jesse Rink" <
jrink@w3si.org>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
flashing sport/tour lights
You can replace the defective wire easy enough. Chances are it's
either the
wiring harness in your front driver or front passenger strut
tower. Pull
off the connectors, take them apart, and measure the
resistance of the wires
with an ohm meter. Any wire showing you an
infinite amount of resistance is
the wire you need to replace. I
found mine using this method and just
replaced the wire, problem went
away. If you're not good with replacing
wires, soldering, and
electronics, you can probably just buy that harness at
a mitsu dealer, I
don't think it'll run you more than $50 if I remember
correctly when I priced
them out. Trying fixing it first and save yourself
some cash.
Jesse Rink
Eagle, WI
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2003 19:09:16 -0600
From: "Jesse Rink" <
jrink@w3si.org>
Subject: Team3S: PST 2
piece CFDS
Just as an FYI....
If you purchase a 2 piece carbon fiber driveshaft
from PST, keep your OLD
stock 3-piece unit around (if possible) until you
install the new one. You
will need the locking nuts, rubber insulators,
and spacers from the Center
Bearing Assembly of the OLD stock unit to mount
the new CF unit.
Unfortunately, I sold my stock DS before realizing tihs and
am now missing
the mounting hardware.... Grrr. I had to special order
the parts from a
local Mitsu dealer...
Incase anyone runs into this, here's the part #'s you'll need.
(2)
MB505283
(2) MB505284
(2) MB505685
(2) MF445005
Only reason I ran into this problem was because I first went with a 1
piece
CFDS from PST and had vibration problems I couldn't get rid of...
While
waiting for the 2 piece CFDS to arrive, I sold my stock DS to a local
guy
who needed one for his car. When I tried installing the 2
piece CFDS today
I realized it wasn't gonna work.... Argh..
Anyways, just throwing this FYI
out there to anyone who is considering a 2
piece CFDS from PST. Keep that
old stock DS around.
Jesse Rink
Eagle, WI
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2003 17:22:46 -0800
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: flashing sport/tour lights
This has been another one of the issues I have yet to tackle on my car. I
checked both front harnesses for continuity, both checked out. I disconnected
the ECS computer to get rid of the light but I do want to get that working. How
do I figure out which strut is reporting the problem? Also are passenger and
driver side harnesses interchangeable? I would swap right to left to see if the
problem moves with the harness or stays with the strut.
Thanks,
UpTime/OnTime/AnyTime
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2003 21:27:04 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Race Tire Suggestions
Ok, well, I think I've narrowed it down to just a few tires that I
will
be considering... Lemme give you a little background on the car
and
what it will be used for... (I figure no one has better race
tire
suggestions than you guys)
Car:
'91 Talon AWD (in process of building the motor, huge turbo, went
11.70
at 116 on 225/50-16 Yokohama ES100's with a 1.62 60')
This was
running 26 psi of boost on a stock motor.
Future plans include more boost,
going to max out the turbo at the top
of it's efficiency range at 30 psi, and
I am also planning a large shot
of nitrous. I am shooting for low
10's.
The car needs more tire, so I have decided to go ahead and do
some
cosmetics at the same time, going to a 17" wheel. I am not too
terribly
concerned with cornering characteristics, however that is a
nice
advantage
The car will ONLY be driven to some weekend get-togethers,
the track,
and some mild street driving.
The car has 4/8-way adjustable
KYB AGX struts with Ground Control
coil-overs...
Tire size will be one of the
following:
225/45-17
235/40-17
245/40-17
I kinda want to stay away from 235/40-17, and I kinda want the
245/40-17
tire size (more grip), but the only tire other than Hoosiers built
in
that size is the Yokohama A032R, which I know is good, but am
currently
undecided on...
Basically, here are my options:
225/45-17
- -Kumho Ecsta V700
-
-Kumho Victoracer V700
- -Michelin Pilot Sport Cup
- -Pirelli PZero
Corsa
235/40-17
- -Kumho Ecsta V700
- -Yok A032R S-Compound
- -Yok A032R
H-Compound
245/40-17
- -Yok A032R S-Compound
Kumho's are the cheapest to start, but I get a pretty decent
rebate
(15-20%) on Yokohama, Michelin, or Pirelli... Any
opinions...
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2003 21:31:16 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Race Tire Suggestions
You already know my opinion. You left out the best racing tire of the
lot -
Toyo Proxes RA-1. (Made in 235/40ZR17). OK..., I'll
admit..., if you can
afford them, I think that the Hoosiers might be a bit
better for your purposes
on the track, but not on the street. I drove
one set of RA-1's (255/40ZR17)
on my Stealth NT for an entire year on the
track *and* to-and-from, on the
street too. We never took them
off. Best track tire you'll ever own, IMO,
and one of the best street
tires, but they can't match the ES-100's for rain
performance (on the street,
not on the track). I've used the Victo and Ecsta,
Nitto, both A032s,
and even tried my fave street tire ES-100s on the track
(they suck - friggen
suicide until they've got 5000+ miles on them, and even
then, they can't
corner at over 100...). In your 235/40 size Proxes, here's
what it says
on the AimTire.com (official supplier of NASA Pro Racing)
website:
"BMW 3
SERIES DRIVERS SIMPLY LOVE THIS SUPER HIGH PERFORMANCE STREET/TRACK
TIRE. CAN
BE SHAVED TO 4/32nds FOR DRY WEATHER RACING!
CAN BE DRIVEN DAILY, YET REMAINS
A VERY QUICK TIRE ON THE RACE TRACK.
SURPRISINGLY GOOD TIRE WEAR WHEN USED
FOR STREET DRIVING."
One quick burn in these tires and you'll be set for the 1/4. Drive
them to
the track to heat them up, then get them toasty with a 5-sec burn
just before
you go to staging. You'll get the grip you need. Then
drive them home in the
rain. ;-)
The RA-1 is the *required* tire for more than a dozen NASA race classes--
PS-2, Pro7, Spec Miata, American Iron, BMW, etc. The owner of Aim,
Ron,
prefers the Hoosiers for a dry race event, but admits that they lose
half
their qualities once they cool down. Forever. Proxes keep
their qualities,
and are incredible in the rain. We run them on all 3
of our cars (but we save
them for just the track, now).
Which reminds me... What ONE set of tires do you think we ran on the
dry,
then through that damned hurricane, rain, mud, debris... for the
entire
25-hour Enduro? Good guess! ;-) Other teams went
through up to 3 sets of
tires for the event, and we watched Kumhos and Yokos
shredding all over the
place. LOL! We brought 3 balanced
wheel/tire sets with us, but we never
changed a single tire. They just
look like new shaved tires now, still with
tread, and good for more
events.
Best,
Forrest
------------------------------
If anyone needs one, I have a 1991 Stealth R/T driver's
side tail
light. I know this tail light will work in a 92
and 93 after that I am
not sure. There are very minor
scratches on it and no cracks. I
got all the back lights
and reflectors together and I only needed the
passenger
side. If anyone is interested e-mail me with an
offer.
Thanks,
Carol Decker
91 R/T TT
:( It rolled over to
100,000
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2003 01:57:16 -0700
From: "Paul Rupp" <
3000GT-VR4@acorp.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Shudder/Vibration on Right Turn under Acceleration
Hi Everybody,
A while back I mentioned a problem I was having, where my 3K shuddered,
or
vibrated on a right turn. Suggestions where wheel bearings or a
couple of
other things. The dealer doesn't believe it is wheel bearings
because there
is no sound or noise associated with the shudder. Now,
due to a worsening
condition, I have a little more information that might
help with the
diagnosis.
The shudder is worse, and I have now realized that it occurs ONLY
under
acceleration, as far as I can tell. If, in the middle of my right
turn, I
let of the gas and coast, the turn becomes smoother, and once I
accelerate
again, the shuddering comes back. Also, it seems that almost
ANY amount of
movement to the right is now causing the vibration. If I
steer to the right
in my lane, I get a little bit of shudder. I also
MIGHT be experiencing the
shudder when going straight, but ONLY under high
acceleration. This is a
little more difficult to tell, because so many
things change in the way the
car feels when you put it under high
acceleration, but I think below it all
I can detect the same vibration as in
the right turn. Left turns continue
to be flawless, under no, low, or
moderate acceleration, as far as I can
tell. (I'm not a track driver,
so no left turns under high acceleration!).
I wish I could describe the
"shudder" better. It is almost like you sense
it more than you feel
it. Contrary to what I said in my earlier message,
the pedals don't
really vibrate, the steering wheel doesn't vibrate, nothing
seems to actually
move or shake in any different way, but there is, for lack
of a better word,
a shudder or vibration; I just don't know where it is, or
how it manifests
itself- you just sense it (?).
Hopefully this is enough information for someone to help me diagnose
the
problem. If you know or think you know the problem, could you also
give me:
1) an idea or estimate of complete repair costs at a repair
shop,
2) what portion of that would be parts, and
3) whether someone with
ZERO mechanical experience could attempt the repair,
or
4) someone with
ZERO mechanical experience accompanied by someone with some
mechanical,
though not 3000GT experience, could complete the repair, and
5) in what time
frame.
Thanks for any help, you guys are an awesome resource for us
non-mechanics!
- - Paul
Albuquerque, New Mexico
1994 Mitsu 3000GT VR/4 150K
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2003 06:04:34 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Race Tire Suggestions
Thanks Bob, I'll definitely look into them.... I had entirely
forgotten
about the Toyo's... (mainly cause neither DTC or Tire Rack
carries
them)....
- -Cody
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2003 08:32:43 -0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: flashing sport/tour lights
The computer will output a code telling you which strut is causing the
problem. Check Jeff's site, I'm sure the specific info is there.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2003 08:48:41 -0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Shudder/Vibration on Right Turn under Acceleration
Suggestions: Make sure you don't have a bad tire on the right
side--take it to a tire shop and have them try to balance it. If it
doesn't balance, you might have broken/separated belts in the tire.
Second, make sure your inner CV joint on the right side isn't bad. Third,
make sure your caliper on the right side isn't hung up. And fourth, make
sure your wheels are in alignment. Just some thoughts.
------------------------------
I have posted this so many times, I am beginning to feel like a SPAM
artist. It is take right out of the service manual, same text found in the
CD.
Chuck Willis
FAQ
Okay, the three day weekend gave me a chance to look up how to read the
ECS
trouble codes with a voltmeter.
1. Find the datalink connector under the dash in the driver's
side.
A. 1ST GENERATION -
connect + to pin 3, - to pin 12. Pin 3 is the
third down on the left
side, before the double space. Pin 12 is the lower
right
corner.
B. 2ND GENERATION -
connect + to pin 3, - to pin 4 or 5. Pin 3 is
the third from the top
left side of the connector ( on the log side of the
trapezoid), pin 4 and 5
are next to the right.
2. Turn the ignition on.
3. Look at the voltmeter. The code is repeated many
times. Seven (7)
short deflections is code =0, and means everything is
wonderful.
4. Other codes are: 1 long, 1 short = 11, G sensor
bad.
2 long, 1 short=21, steering angular velocity sensor
open
2 long, 4 short=24, speed sensor open
These codes don't disappear until ingnition switch is off, even if you
fix
the problem.
5. These codes disappear when you correct the
problem:
6 long, 1 short=61, Front
Right shock
6 long, 2 short=62,
Front left shock
6 long, 3
short=63, Rear right shock
6 long,
4 short=64, Rear Left shock
MFI trouble codes are read in a similar manner, but different pins.
FIRST GENERATION - connect + to pin 1, - to pin 12.
SECOND GENERATION -
Connect pin 1 to GROUND and watch the CHECK ENGINE light
flashes for same
sort of patterns - long flashes (1.5 sec) are tens digit,
short (0.5 sec)
flashes are ones digit. That gets you the same codes you
would read on
the Scan Tool.
You clear codes by disconnecting the battery for 10 seconds,
reconnecting
and idling the car for 15 min to make sure the codes don't
return.
Chuck
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2003 09:47:56 -0500
From: Joseph Spainhour <
spainhou@bellsouth.net>
Subject:
Team3S: strange problem decelerating
Hello all,
I have a strange problem. Say we are cruising at
60 and want to
pass someone, we give it gas and accelerate to 80. We hit max
boost in a
second or two (14psi). When we let off the gas, the car has a
strange
vibration/sound. It almost sounds like compressor surge. Could that
be
what it is? It only happens when we are cruising at speed and then
accelerate. Going from 0-80+ is fine. This also only started after my
exhaust upgrade and it does not happen every time. Could this just be
that the computer has not fully adjusted to the new exhaust? I have only
put about 200 miles on it since the upgrade.
Happy holidays
Joseph
93 3KGT
------------------------------
>> I cannot for the life of me find the mark that it is talking
about
There are no mating marks on the cam that I know of. The mating marks
refered to are on the CAS and its housing.
See Electrical-Ignition System in the service manual. There it says to
install the CAS with *its* mating marks lined up when cyl #1 is at TDC of its
compression stroke. It particularly warns against having cyl #1 at TDC of its
exhaust stroke (or Cyl #4 at TDC of its compression stroke). With our wasted
spark you would not think it would make a difference ignition-wise. But it does.
I know the engine will not run if the'91-'92 CAS is not installed with cyl #1 at
TDC of the compression stroke. My personal experience, from my engine builder
having installed the CAS 180º out of phase (#4 at TDC comp instead of #1). After
that, he eventually returned the car to me with ~60º basic timing advance. But
that is another story.
The CAS is not the source of your problems as you describe them below. Look
elsewhere. If the CAS is not installed correctly, the engine will not run. If
the CAS is not working correctly, the engine will not work well at any coolant
temp.
>> What can I look at on the car with the datalogger or any
other
>> common tool to verify that the CAS is in correctly?
Nothing. Read my paragraph above. You can use an oscilloscope to verify the
CAS is operating correctly.
>> ... the car will be unable to find the #1 cylinder ...
Huh?
Read my web page about our ignition, specifically the section Ignition Power
Distribution Control.
The combination of TDC and CAS signals indicating cyl #1 at TDC of compr.
will occur as long as the CAS is installed (1991-1992 models). If the CAS is
installed incorrectly, then that signal will not occur when cyl #1 actually is
at TDC compr. In fact, this is what we do when when we create some basic
ignition advance or retard by rotating the CAS away from 0º advance.
As far as the fuel injector timing and the CAS goes, look elsewhere for
your cause.
>> ... the car runs fine once it warms up ....
And that is your biggest clue. Have you checked out every item listed in
the idle troubleshooting guide in the '92-'96 3000GT service manual? For
example, the FIAV?
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2003 10:51:01 -0500
From: "Omar Malik" <
ojm@iname.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Shudder/Vibration on Right Turn under Acceleration
Two things to check.
One, check your lug nuts. Loose lug nuts on one side will cause what you
are
describing. That's probably not it, since the dealer has checked
over
everything, and if it were the problem, your wheel would have
probably
fallen off by now. But it's a good thing to check.
If that isn't the problem, check your axle shafts. The bearings in
the
rollers inside the inner tripod style CV joint have a habit of failing.
This
leaves the rollers free to bounce around on their center shaft and cause
the
shudder you are talking about. You can rebuild these pretty easily,
with
just a new tripod, but if the inside of the joint housing has been worn
from
the play, you would need to replace that as well. If you can get
a
mechanically inclined friend, it wouldn't be hard to replace, and
is
relatively easy to diagnose. Jack up the car, and one at a time rotate
the
front wheels forward and back, just enough so you can feel the play.
You
should be able to hear clunking in either the drivers side joint where
it
goes into the intermediate shaft, or the passenger side joint where it
goes
into the tranny. If you can turn the wheels with no play, ie, the other
side
wheel turns in the opposite direction just as soon as you turn yours
either
way, the axles shafts are probably not the culprit.
Omar
92 r/t
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2003 17:01:45 +0100
From: Engelmann Peter A Maj AFELM
PEP <
peter.engelmann@ramstein.af.mil>
Subject:
Team3S: Autobahn Brake Upgrade Continued
Well, the bad (but not unexpected) news from the mechanic is in: the
front
brakes are completely shot, pads, rotors, and even the calipers.
(The front
right caliper had 7 of 8 pistons stuck! Amazing the wheel
even turned!!
Explains why I was getting about 125 miles to a tankful of gas,
though!!)
The good news is the rear brakes are completely fine! So Just
Brakes
installed the seals in the rear calipers correctly, but not in the
front.
Go figure!
Now I'm left with a myriad of options. Any advice on the following is
again
highly appreciated.
1. 1st gen or 2nd gen? Reading the "Brake Upgrade Options"
document that
Jim Matthews referred me to, I see that in general, bigger
rotors mean
better braking performance, so right off the bat, I'm tempted to
go with 2nd
gen. But if so, here's a few further things to think
about:
2. Chuck Willis says 2nd gen calipers/rotors are a "close fit" on 1st
gen
rims. Does that mean it's a risky combination? Germany is the
land of high
curbs, and you have to pull up on them sometimes to park.
Would you
recommend against trying this--just bite the bullet and get
appropriate
rims?
3. Fitting problems aside, any problems with 2nd gen brakes on 1st
gen rims
on the front, but keeping 1st gen brakes on 1st gen rims on the
rear?
4. Any problems with 2nd gen brakes on 2nd gen rims on the front,
but
keeping 1st gen brakes on 1st gen rims on the rear?
5. I have to replace the front calipers. Used or new?
Does anyone know
where I can get used 1st gen calipers? (My mechanic
laughed when I asked
about the availability of used parts here in
Germany!) If I have to go with
new, can I still get new 1st gen?
Someone mentioned that for the price of
new, I should check out other upgrade
kits. Geoff Mohler, Philip Glazatov,
suggestions?
6. My mechanic says my rear brakes are fine. But I'm confused
(I
know--that much is obvious, isn't it?) He nods his head when I say I
don't
think the stock brakes are meant for Autobahn speeds. But then he
quotes me
Dodge stock part numbers for replacement parts! If I'm
concerned about
safety, should I replace the rear brakes as well, even if
they're
mechanically sound?
Putting it all together....
7. Jim Matthews said he got good results with cryoed Porterfields and
R4S
pads all the way around, with what I presume were stock calipers, all
2nd
gen. I'm tempted to think that might be my best option too, only I
have 1st
gen rims. Best to go with that option (1st gen versions) all
the way around
(means I have to try to get used 1st gen calipers)? Or
best to try to get
all 2nd gen? (In other words, is there really that
much of a difference in
performance?) Jim's willing to sell me his used
2nd gen calipers. Anyone
know where I can get used 2nd gen rims?
Or a good aftermarket vendor of new
2nd gen rims? (Come to think of it,
my rims are beat up a little bit, so
new wouldn't be a complete waste of
money....)
Decisions, decisions!! Advice, please!!!!
Pete Engelmann
92 jet black Stealth RT TT, 123K, no mods
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2003 10:42:55 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: strange problem decelerating
Does it vibrate or make the sound if you let off the throttle completely,
or only if you go from WOT to, say 60% throttle? If it's the latter, then
that's a very common experience for TT cars. I've never heard a good
explanation for it.
- --Erik
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2003 13:49:24 -0500
From: Joseph Spainhour <
spainhou@bellsouth.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: strange problem decelerating
It is the latter. So I guess I am not the only one who has experienced
this.
Joseph
93 3KGT VR4
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Dec 2003 00:38:08 +0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Autobahn Brake Upgrade Continued
Ahem, Peter, the calipers only have 4 pistons per caliper !! Either a
typo
from you or someone is joking you !
And what do you mean by "shot" ????? Please be specific, what did he meant
?
1. For sure 2nd gen, Let us know what wheels do you have exactly, send a
pic
to a few of us with a 1st gen to identify if the 2nd gen rims fit.
2.
This has nothing to do with the curbs here
3/4. go with four same rims, you
can leave the rear brake as it is, the
proportion is no problem
5. change
the machanic first, then go and do a search ... and read my post
.....
The
Dodge parts are not available here but the Mitsubishi are. In the end,
your
car is old and be prepared to run into the ECU problem too the next
year. So
the question is how much money you want to spend now. I'd do all
the brakes
and wheels around the car and getting four new wheels (e.g. Moda
R6, cheap
here) with any brake you want.
BTW, I had stock 2nd gen brakes and had a crash between Munich and Lindau
on
the Autobahn due to overheated brakes after a few hard braking
procedures
from 250km/h down to 120 or so. So if you chaneg the calipers
isn't the main
thing, get good rotors and pads and let the "mechanic" do a
refreshment job
to the calieprs. Mitsu has a kit for this.
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#319
***************************************