Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Monday, November 24
2003 Volume 02 : Number 308
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Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2003 20:43:39 -0500
Subject: RE: Team3S: Torque wrench
Definitely beam type to set the tension with the tool on the belt.
Clicker
type should be fine to set the tension on the center bolt.
Omar
92 r/t
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Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2003 21:17:01 -0500
Subject: Team3S: DSM rims on a Stealth
I am thinking about what to do for snow tires, and I don't particularly
want to get a nice set of rims to mount them on. I can get some old
DSM rims for pretty cheap, but they are only 16s. I know bolt pattern
and offset are the same, but I doubt its going to clear the brakes.
Another thought that had crossed my mind was whether or not this would
affect the suspension geometry enough to be a concern. Any one have
any thoughts or experience?
Regards,
Ted Matherly
'92 Stealth TT
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Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2003 22:23:49 EST
Subject: Team3S: Refinished wheels
I am interested in refinishing my factory chrome rims
because they have
been deformed badly from all the salt on the road in winter amd were poorly
made in the first place.
I dont want new factory rims (475 a piece!) or
aftermarket ones because i
like the look of them. Is it possible to refinish the rims so they
will be
like new? Both the face and inner wheel are pretty pitted and/or
peeling.
I was told that because Mitsu went the cheap way and
chose to chrome the
entire wheel, front and back, it now is peeling. Where the tire meets the
rim
is also chromed, and because salt has eroded the chrome there, I now have a
leaking rim.
Mike-
97 SL
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Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2003 22:33:37 -0500
Subject: RE: Team3S: DSM rims on a Stealth
DSM 16 inch rims will fit a non turbo but definitely not a twin.
16x8" stealth ES and 3000gt SL wheels will however clear the calipers of
a
first gen twin turbo. It's a very close fit, but they work perfectly
Omar
92 r/t
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Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2003 22:37:26 -0600
Subject: Team3S: Knock sensor
Does anyone know where to look in CAPS for the knock sensor? I can't
find
it anywhere. How about the part number if you're already there?
- -Jeff C.
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Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2003 20:54:36 -0800
Subject: Re: Team3S: Knock sensor
Engine electrical --- engine control --- go to page three of six
MD159216
Jim Berry
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Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2003 23:43:46 -0600
Subject: RE: Team3S: Knock sensor
Thanks Jim!
I didn't know that there were
multiple pages, and I've never NOT been able
to find something I've been looking for. Now I know!
Thanks again!
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Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 02:26:26 -0500
Subject: Re: Team3S: Refinished wheels
I am not sure if I can fix your leaking rim (it might be worth trying) but
I can powder coat 4 of for $340 (included prep work).
Another option is that I just happened to have 3 of your 97 SL rims in a
very good shape
(scroll to the bottom). I will let them go for $350.
Philip
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Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 07:40:39 -0500
Subject: RE: Team3S: Torque wrench
Can't use a clicker or break-over, you need to use beam type (you're
talking about a VR4 or TT, right?)
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Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 07:19:59 -0800
Subject: Team3S: An easier solution
Greeting folks,
I stuffed my remote dual bypass filters on the right fender
well(barely
enough room.) While under my vehicle yesterday, I discovered a
better,
non-cramped, closer area to mount it! If you look under the headlights
in
front of the tire you will see the front end of the frame and tons of
room!
It would make changing the filters easier, can use bigger filters, and
only
about 3 ft (as the hose goes) from the adapter on the car.
Yes, it is vunerable if you mash the front end but you would have
more
problems than squashed filters to worry about.
Any remote dual filter application will do. My application takes a
space
9"X9"X5" including the filters.
Keith Morgavi
AKA Gizmo
Certified Systems Professional
PC Systems and Networks.
Des Moines, WA
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Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 07:32:35 -0800
Subject: Re: Team3S: Torque wrench
I'm confused by your use of the term 'can't use' ---- they are all accurate
if it's
a quality piece and calibrated. I prefer an accurate beam type but
that's a
personal preference.
Jim Berry
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Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 10:35:25 -0500
Subject: Re: Team3S: Intermintant Missfire of cylinder 1-4
Well Jim you were right on the money. After going around and around
with
this problem I finally got the time to spend Saturday afternoon
without
being distracted to troubleshoot the the wiring myself. I started at
the
coil pack and tested every wire per the troubleshooting guide in the
shop
manual, after a couple of hours and all my test harnesses hooked up I
had
the dash/consol apart and got to the ECM, cleaning every connection I
tested. All items came up with in specification, resistance on the
coils
came up good. I pulled out the ECM opened it up and low and
behold Dead
Seafood! One of the caps the
100uf@16volt
one is leaking on the motherboard.
No visible damage I can see so I have ordered the replacement caps and
will
put them in this week. Thanks to all for the tips...I think I have
finally
got to the bottom of this problem because I cleaned the board up and
just
for giggles connected it to see if it was any better and no misfire a all
so
when the new caps are in should be good to go.
Eugene
92'DOHC NT
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Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 10:52:05 -0500
Subject: RE: Team3S: Torque wrench
For clarification, I am referring to applying the tension to the pulley,
not tightening any bolts. A click type wont tell you if you are applying a
constant, specified torque. Only a beam type can tell you that
accurately. In otherwords, you can look at the pointer and see that you
are still appying the specified torque as you proceed to tighten the
bolts.
Jim Berry
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Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 08:30:12 -0800
Subject: Team3S: Clutch part number
I'm wanting to verify the Mitsubishi clutch part number for my '91
VR4
vin: JA3XE74C2MY026408
I've been told it might be MR111650
Please verify this if you can.
Thanks.
- --------------------------------------------------------------
Mike Gerhard
1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Pearl White
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Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 08:33:09 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Team3S: Refinished wheels
The wheel probably leaks due to the chrome on the bead flaking so the
tire
can't get a good seal. My leak was fixed by wire-brushing the bead,
then
remounting. So, your powdercoat (after prepping) should fix his
problems.
$340 sounds like a great price, do you have colors?
Glenn
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Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 11:38:53 -0500
Subject: RE: Team3S: Clutch part number
That's the right number for the clutch disc.
Other numbers include the pressure plate: MD742801
and throwout bearing: MB837549
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Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 10:47:13 -0600
Subject: RE: Team3S: Clutch part number
Clutch disc: MD741324
Pressure plate(ala "clutch cover"): MD742801
Release Bearing: MB837549
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Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 11:56:24 -0500
Subject: RE: Team3S: Clutch part number
That's the wrong number for the clutch disc. That's the number for
the old version of the part. The replacement part number is
MR111650.
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Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 16:46:29 -0500
Subject: Team3S: Radiator Hoses Cracking
A mechanic changing my oil just told me that my radiator hoses are
cracking on the inside. Is this something that has happened to
anyone
else or is he full of crap?
Thanks,
Ken
1997 Stock VR4 ~64K
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Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 23:13:46 +0100
Subject: Re: Team3S: Radiator Hoses Cracking
No, not at all, no problem known with such a young car.
But ask how he knows that they are cracking on the inside, wah tare
the
symptons ??? Changing the oil doesn't show anything !!
IMHO, crap but ask him to tell exactly and post the answer.
Roger G.
93 & 96 3000GT TT
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Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 17:15:59 -0500
Subject: RE: Team3S: Radiator Hoses Cracking
Oh, by the way, Ken has those new transparent radiator hoses with the
electronic crack detectors in them. :-)
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Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 22:23:17 +0000
Subject: Re: Team3S: Radiator Hoses Cracking
He probably just squeezed the hose and it felt brittle instead of
flexible. Typical test, but probably does more harm than good. Easy
enough to replace.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
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Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 17:46:37 -0500
Subject: RE: Team3S: Radiator Hoses Cracking
Symptoms: Apparently he squeezed a hose and it made a crackling
sound
like a potato chip bag that he said is customary for cracking on the
inside. Possible, I suppose, but I'm skeptical.
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Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 17:48:50 -0500
Subject: RE: Team3S: Radiator Hoses Cracking
I like to think of the list as my "electronic crap ..er crack
detector."
:)
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Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 15:19:40 -0800
Subject: Team3S: application pictures.
I've gotten alot of email asking about picture. I should splurge on a
camera
but I haven't. But.....
should give some insight into what you could do.
Keith Morgavi
AKA Gizmo
Certified Systems Professional
PC Systems and Networks.
Des Moines, WA
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Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 18:40:42 -0500
Subject: Re: Team3S: Refinished wheels
Colors? You name it! It will cost a little extra for funky metallic colors
though because those require several coats. Bronze, matte black,
gunmetal...
I should have an updated price list on my website in a day or two.
Philip
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Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 19:25:09 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stock chromies - repair or replace?
Hi Bob, do all chrome wheels require the rechroming process or is it
possible just to fix them up?
Mike
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Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 16:51:19 -0800
Subject: Team3S: NORCO Comes through.
I had to replace my right rear axel bearings over the weekend. The
ocal
Dodge dealer want $630.00. A check of the Team3S "Good Guys" listing
and a
call to NORCO got me a deal. As a Team3S member I got the same OEM
parts
for $148.00. You guys are great.
Ed Ranzenbach
94 Stealth RT
83,000 original miles
Complete Engine/Turbo Rebuild
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Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 19:12:01 -0600
Subject: Re: Team3S: NORCO Comes through.
Well, what you gotta look out for is the axle housing being wore out
too.
If it is, you won't be able to press in the new bearings. They will
just
slop around in there. When I replaced my rear bearings, one housing
was
worn and one wasn't.
Maybe the dealer already figured out that the housing was shot, and
that's
why they wanted to charge you so much. Or, as is their wont, maybe
they
decided to replace the bearings and the housings, whether you needed
them
or not. As I recall, the shaft housing is about $200 x 2 + 2 bearings,
so
that would be right around your $630 estimate.
By the bye, my mechanics at Denny's Mufflers (they race cars, too)
were
dismayed at the rear axle and bearing arrangement, and said the system
was
never designed to handle race car cornering forces. That's why I wore out
a
rear housing so fast, they said. Any of you racers out there going
through
rear bearings faster than usual?
Rich
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Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 21:18:10 -0500
Subject: Team3S: Anyone know of in-expensive Data Acquisition
hardware and software, strain gages, thermocouples, pressure transducers?
Anyone know of in-expensive Data Acquisition hardware and software,
for
strain gages, thermocouples, and pressure transducers?
I would like use strain gages but I have not done this in over 10
years
so I am clueless what to get. A Serial or USB adapter that
would
connect to a laptop and allow me to monitor voltage from pressure
transducers, thermocouples and strain gages would be perfect.
In addition to strain gages I like to data log multiple pressure and
temperature sensors at the same time. One reason is to look at
pressures and temperature differences in the entire intake system
from
the intake to turbo to throttle body to determine the real
restrictions
in the system. The same could be done for the exhaust system. I
know
some people have done this with multiple gages but it's hard to
calibrate and data log a bank a gages.
I found some equipment for National Instruments that would be perfect
for only a few thousand dollars but if I had that much money I would
spend it on the car, so I still wouldn't buy it. I was hoping to
spend
only a few hundred dollars but I have no idea if this is possible or
not.
I looked at lab jack that Philip was using to data log his car but
it
looks like it might be a little slow when using multiple inputs.
Any suggestions?
John Monnin
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2 #308
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