Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth   Monday, November 24 2003   Volume 02 : Number 308
 
 
 
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Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2003 20:43:39 -0500
 
From: "Omar Malik" <ojm@iname.com>
 
Subject: RE: Team3S: Torque wrench
 
 
 
Definitely beam type to set the tension with the tool on the belt. Clicker
 
type should be fine to set the tension on the center bolt.
 
 
 
Omar
 
92 r/t
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
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Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2003 21:17:01 -0500
 
From: James Matherly <jemather@umich.edu>
 
Subject: Team3S: DSM rims on a Stealth
 
 
 
I am thinking about what to do for snow tires, and I don't particularly
 
want to get a nice set of rims to mount them on.  I can get some old
 
DSM rims for pretty cheap, but they are only 16s.  I know bolt pattern
 
and offset are the same, but I doubt its going to clear the brakes. 
 
Another thought that had crossed my mind was whether or not this would
 
affect the suspension geometry enough to be a concern.  Any one have
 
any thoughts or experience?
 
 
 
Regards,
 
Ted Matherly
 
jemather@umich.edu
 
'92 Stealth TT
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
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Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2003 22:23:49 EST
 
From: M3000GTSL84@aol.com
 
Subject: Team3S: Refinished wheels
 
 
 
    I am interested in refinishing my factory chrome rims because they have
 
been deformed badly from all the salt on the road in winter amd were poorly
 
made in the first place.
 
 
 
    I dont want new factory rims (475 a piece!) or aftermarket ones because i
 
like the look  of them. Is it possible to refinish the rims so they will be
 
like new? Both the face and inner wheel  are pretty pitted and/or peeling.
 
 
 
    I was told that because Mitsu went the cheap way and chose to chrome the
 
entire wheel, front and back, it now is peeling. Where the tire meets the rim
 
is also chromed, and because salt has eroded the chrome there, I now have a
 
leaking rim.
 
 
 
Mike-
 
97 SL
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
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Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2003 22:33:37 -0500
 
From: "Omar Malik" <ojm@iname.com>
 
Subject: RE: Team3S: DSM rims on a Stealth
 
 
 
DSM 16 inch rims will fit a non turbo but definitely not a twin.
 
16x8" stealth ES and 3000gt SL wheels will however clear the calipers of a
 
first gen twin turbo. It's a very close fit, but they work perfectly
 
 
 
Omar
 
92 r/t
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
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Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2003 22:37:26 -0600
 
From: "William J. Crabtree" <wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
 
Subject: Team3S: Knock sensor
 
 
 
Does anyone know where to look in CAPS for the knock sensor?  I can't find
 
it anywhere.  How about the part number if you're already there?
 
 
 
- -Jeff C.
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
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Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2003 20:54:36 -0800
 
From: "fastmax" <fastmax@cox.net>
 
Subject: Re: Team3S: Knock sensor
 
 
 
Engine electrical --- engine control --- go to page three of six
 
 
 
MD159216
 
 
 
        Jim Berry
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
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Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2003 23:43:46 -0600
 
From: "William J. Crabtree" <wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
 
Subject: RE: Team3S: Knock sensor
 
 
 
Thanks Jim!
 
 
 
        I didn't know that there were multiple pages, and I've never NOT been able
 
to find something I've been looking for.  Now I know!
 
 
 
Thanks again!
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
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Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 02:26:26 -0500
 
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <philip@supercar-engineering.com>
 
Subject: Re: Team3S: Refinished wheels
 
 
 
I am not sure if I can fix your leaking rim (it might be worth trying) but
 
I can powder coat 4 of for $340 (included prep work).
 
http://supercar-engineering.com/serv90-powdercoating.htm
 
 
 
Another option is that I just happened to have 3 of your 97 SL rims in a
 
very good shape
 
http://supercar-engineering.com/prod88-one-off.htm
 
(scroll to the bottom). I will let them go for $350.
 
 
 
Philip
 
http://supercar-engineering.com
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
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Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 07:40:39 -0500
 
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <starkeyje@bipc.com>
 
Subject: RE: Team3S: Torque wrench
 
 
 
Can't use a clicker or break-over, you need to use beam type (you're talking about a VR4 or TT, right?)
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
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Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 07:19:59 -0800
 
From: "Gizmo" <kdmorg@comcast.net>
 
Subject: Team3S: An easier solution
 
 
 
Greeting folks,
 
 
 
I stuffed my remote dual bypass filters on the right fender well(barely
 
enough room.) While under my vehicle yesterday, I discovered a better,
 
non-cramped, closer area to mount it! If you look under the headlights in
 
front of the tire you will see the front end of the frame and tons of room!
 
It would make changing the filters easier, can use bigger filters, and only
 
about 3 ft (as the hose goes) from the adapter on the car.
 
 
 
Yes, it is vunerable if you mash the front end but you would have more
 
problems than squashed filters to worry about.
 
 
 
Any remote dual filter application will do. My application takes a space
 
9"X9"X5" including the filters.
 
 
 
Keith Morgavi
 
AKA Gizmo
 
Certified Systems Professional
 
PC Systems and Networks.
 
Des Moines, WA
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
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Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 07:32:35 -0800
 
From: "fastmax" <fastmax@cox.net>
 
Subject: Re: Team3S: Torque wrench
 
 
 
I'm confused by your use of the term 'can't use' ---- they are all accurate if it's
 
a quality piece and calibrated.  I prefer an accurate beam type but that's a
 
personal preference.
 
 
 
        Jim Berry
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
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Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 10:35:25 -0500
 
From: "Gene Calarco" <gac@clifton.ds.adp.com>
 
Subject: Re: Team3S: Intermintant Missfire of cylinder 1-4
 
 
 
Well Jim you were right on the money. After going around and around with
 
this problem I finally got the time to spend Saturday afternoon without
 
being distracted to troubleshoot the the wiring myself.  I started at the
 
coil pack and tested every wire per the troubleshooting guide in the shop
 
manual, after a couple of  hours and all my test harnesses hooked up I had
 
the dash/consol apart and got to the ECM, cleaning every connection I
 
tested. All items came up with in specification, resistance on the coils
 
came up good.   I pulled out the ECM opened it up and low and behold Dead
 
Seafood! One of the caps the 100uf@16volt one is leaking on the motherboard.
 
No visible damage I can see so I have ordered the replacement caps and will
 
put them in this week.  Thanks to all for the tips...I think I have finally
 
got to the bottom of this problem because I cleaned the board up and just
 
for giggles connected it to see if it was any better and no misfire a all so
 
when the new caps are in should be good to go.
 
 
 
Eugene
 
92'DOHC NT
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
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Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 10:52:05 -0500
 
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <starkeyje@bipc.com>
 
Subject: RE: Team3S: Torque wrench
 
 
 
For clarification, I am referring to applying the tension to the pulley, not tightening any bolts.  A click type wont tell you if you are applying a constant, specified torque.  Only a beam type can tell you that accurately.  In otherwords, you can look at the pointer and see that you are still appying the specified torque as you proceed to tighten the bolts.
 
 
 
        Jim Berry
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
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Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 08:30:12 -0800
 
From: Mike Gerhard <gerhard1@llnl.gov>
 
Subject: Team3S: Clutch part number
 
 
 
I'm wanting to verify the Mitsubishi clutch part number for my '91 VR4
 
 
 
vin: JA3XE74C2MY026408
 
 
 
I've been told it might be  MR111650
 
 
 
Please verify this if you can.
 
 
 
Thanks.
 
 
 
- --------------------------------------------------------------
 
Mike Gerhard           1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4  Pearl White
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
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Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 08:33:09 -0800 (PST)
 
From: vr4glenn@newsguy.com
 
Subject: Re: Team3S: Refinished wheels
 
 
 
The wheel probably leaks due to the chrome on the bead flaking so the tire
 
can't get a good seal.  My leak was fixed by wire-brushing the bead, then
 
remounting.  So, your powdercoat (after prepping) should fix his problems.
 
 
 
$340 sounds like a great price, do you have colors?
 
 
 
Glenn
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
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Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 11:38:53 -0500
 
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <starkeyje@bipc.com>
 
Subject: RE: Team3S: Clutch part number
 
 
 
That's the right number for the clutch disc.
 
 
 
Other numbers include the pressure plate: MD742801
 
 
 
and throwout bearing:  MB837549
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
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Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 10:47:13 -0600
 
From: "William J. Crabtree" <wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
 
Subject: RE: Team3S: Clutch part number
 
 
 
Clutch disc:  MD741324
 
Pressure plate(ala "clutch cover"): MD742801
 
Release Bearing:  MB837549
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
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Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 11:56:24 -0500
 
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <starkeyje@bipc.com>
 
Subject: RE: Team3S: Clutch part number
 
 
 
That's the wrong number for the clutch disc.  That's the number for the old version of the part.  The replacement part number is MR111650.
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
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Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 16:46:29 -0500
 
From: "Ken Lovell" <wklovell@yahoo.com>
 
Subject: Team3S: Radiator Hoses Cracking
 
 
 
A mechanic changing my oil just told me that my radiator hoses are
 
cracking on the inside.  Is this something that has happened to anyone
 
else or is he full of crap?
 
 
 
Thanks,
 
Ken
 
1997 Stock VR4 ~64K
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
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Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 23:13:46 +0100
 
From: "Roger Gerl" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
 
Subject: Re: Team3S: Radiator Hoses Cracking
 
 
 
No, not at all, no problem known with such a young car.
 
 
 
But ask how he knows that they are cracking on the inside, wah tare the
 
symptons  ??? Changing the oil doesn't show anything !!
 
 
 
IMHO, crap but ask him to tell exactly and post the answer.
 
 
 
Roger G.
 
93 & 96 3000GT TT
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
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Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 17:15:59 -0500
 
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <starkeyje@bipc.com>
 
Subject: RE: Team3S: Radiator Hoses Cracking
 
 
 
Oh, by the way, Ken has those new transparent radiator hoses with the electronic crack detectors in them.  :-)
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
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Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 22:23:17 +0000
 
From: mjannusch@comcast.net
 
Subject: Re: Team3S: Radiator Hoses Cracking
 
 
 
He probably just squeezed the hose and it felt brittle instead of flexible.  Typical test, but probably does more harm than good.  Easy enough to replace.
 
 
 
- -Matt
 
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
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Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 17:46:37 -0500
 
From: "Ken Lovell" <wklovell@yahoo.com>
 
Subject: RE: Team3S: Radiator Hoses Cracking
 
 
 
Symptoms:  Apparently he squeezed a hose and it made a crackling sound
 
like a potato chip bag that he said is customary for cracking on the
 
inside.  Possible, I suppose, but I'm skeptical.
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
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Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 17:48:50 -0500
 
From: "Ken Lovell" <wklovell@yahoo.com>
 
Subject: RE: Team3S: Radiator Hoses Cracking
 
 
 
I like to think of the list as my "electronic crap ..er crack detector."
 
:)
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
------------------------------
 
 
 
Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 15:19:40 -0800
 
From: "Gizmo" <kdmorg@comcast.net>
 
Subject: Team3S: application pictures.
 
 
 
I've gotten alot of email asking about picture. I should splurge on a camera
 
but I haven't. But.....
 
 
 
http://home.comcast.net/~kdmorg/index.htm and choose "the application"
 
should give some insight into what you could do.
 
 
 
Keith Morgavi
 
AKA Gizmo
 
Certified Systems Professional
 
PC Systems and Networks.
 
Des Moines, WA
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
------------------------------
 
 
 
Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 18:40:42 -0500
 
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <philip@supercar-engineering.com>
 
Subject: Re: Team3S: Refinished wheels
 
 
 
Colors? You name it! It will cost a little extra for funky metallic colors
 
though because those require several coats. Bronze, matte black, gunmetal...
 
 
 
I should have an updated price list on my website in a day or two.
 
 
 
Philip
 
http://supercar-engineering.com
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
------------------------------
 
 
 
Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 19:25:09 -0500 (EST)
 
From: Michael Baldwin <mbaldwin@alumni.tufts.edu>
 
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stock chromies - repair or replace?
 
 
 
Hi Bob, do all chrome wheels require the rechroming process or is it
 
possible just to fix them up?
 
 
 
Mike
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
------------------------------
 
 
 
Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 16:51:19 -0800
 
From: "ranzenbach" <ranzenbach@sbcglobal.net>
 
Subject: Team3S: NORCO Comes through.
 
 
 
I had to replace my right rear axel bearings over the weekend.  The ocal
 
Dodge dealer want $630.00.  A check of the Team3S "Good Guys" listing and a
 
call to NORCO got me a deal.  As a Team3S member I got the same OEM parts
 
for $148.00.  You guys are great.
 
 
 
Ed Ranzenbach
 
94 Stealth RT
 
83,000 original miles
 
Complete Engine/Turbo Rebuild
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
------------------------------
 
 
 
Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 19:12:01 -0600
 
From: "merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
 
Subject: Re: Team3S: NORCO Comes through.
 
 
 
Well, what you gotta look out for is the axle housing being wore out too.
 
If it is, you won't be able to press in the new bearings. They will just
 
slop around in there. When I replaced my rear bearings, one housing was
 
worn and one wasn't.
 
 
 
Maybe the dealer already figured out that the housing was shot, and that's
 
why they wanted to charge you so much. Or, as is their wont, maybe they
 
decided to replace the bearings and the housings, whether you needed them
 
or not. As I recall, the shaft housing is about $200 x 2 + 2 bearings, so
 
that would be right around your $630 estimate.
 
 
 
By the bye, my mechanics at Denny's Mufflers (they race cars, too) were
 
dismayed at the rear axle and bearing arrangement, and said the system was
 
never designed to handle race car cornering forces. That's why I wore out a
 
rear housing so fast, they said. Any of you racers out there going through
 
rear bearings faster than usual?
 
 
 
Rich
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
------------------------------
 
 
 
Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 21:18:10 -0500
 
From: "John Monnin" <john.monnin@comcast.net>
 
Subject: Team3S: Anyone  know of  in-expensive Data Acquisition hardware and software, strain gages, thermocouples, pressure transducers?
 
 
 
Anyone know of in-expensive Data Acquisition hardware and software, for
 
strain gages, thermocouples, and pressure transducers?
 
 
 
I would like use strain gages but I have not done this in over 10 years
 
so I am clueless what to get.  A Serial or USB adapter that would
 
connect to a laptop and allow me to monitor voltage from pressure
 
transducers, thermocouples and strain gages would be perfect.
 
 
 
In addition to strain gages I like to data log multiple pressure and
 
temperature sensors at the same time.  One reason is to look at
 
pressures and temperature differences in the entire intake system from
 
the intake to turbo to throttle body to determine the real restrictions
 
in the system.  The same could be done for the exhaust system.  I know
 
some people have done this with multiple gages but it's hard to
 
calibrate and data log a bank a gages.
 
 
 
I found some equipment for National Instruments that would be perfect
 
for only a few thousand dollars but if I had that much money I would
 
spend it on the car, so I still wouldn't buy it.  I was hoping to spend
 
only a few hundred dollars but I have no idea if this is possible or
 
not. 
 
 
 
I looked at lab jack that Philip was using to data log his  car but it
 
looks like it might be a little slow when using multiple inputs.
 
 
 
Any suggestions?
 
 
 
John Monnin
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2 #308
 
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