Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth  Thursday, November 20 2003  Volume 02 : Number 304
 
 
 
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Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2003 08:29:02 -0800
 
From: "Gizmo" <kdmorg@comcast.net>
 
Subject: Team3S: Oil flap and when to change. A personal look.
 
 
 
Hi guys,
 
 
 
I use Amsoil 20-50W severe duty racing oil in my 93 Stealth R/T. I also have
 
a remote dual filter setup (also from Amsoil) that virtually eliminates all
 
foreign particals from the oil so not only does it not break down but is
 
cleaner than just about anything else. I change my oil once a year and it
 
never looks dirty. And my car runs great.
 
 
 
As far as "wasting money" a full oil change is only a dollar more than the
 
best Mobil 1. The filters have to be changed every other oil change. The
 
filters are reasonable and since they are in a location other than under the
 
engine I can change the filters without much mess. It also adds a bit more
 
to the total amount of oil used since the dual filters hold more oil than
 
the single under the car one does an depending where you mount the filters
 
(fender, firewall, etc) the hoses also hold oil.
 
 
 
All in all.....I am quite happy with the setup and the oil.
 
 
 
Keith Morgavi
 
AKA Gizmo
 
Certified Systems Professional
 
PC Systems and Networks.
 
Des Moines, WA
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
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Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2003 11:46:19 -0600
 
From: "William J. Crabtree" <wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
 
Subject: RE: Team3S: SS Braided turbo oil lines from 3sx
 
 
 
OK,
 
 
 
        Thanks for everyone's input.  I'm going to stick with the stock lines and
 
save myself $300.  I agree that the cosmetics of them are nice, but are not
 
easily seen.  If there's no performance benefit, then there's little point.
 
 
 
- -Jeff Crabtree
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
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Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2003 13:14:45 -0600 (CST)
 
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
 
Subject: Re: Team3S: Replacing Turbo Oil Lines (Was:  SS Braided turbo oil lines from 3sx)
 
 
 
Well, SS line use should almost always include a strain relief in the
 
design as well, even with the plate, you are adding stress to fittings.
 
 
 
You dont get strain issues with pre-formed steep/rubber lines.
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
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Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2003 14:33:48 -0500 (EST)
 
From: Michael Baldwin <mbaldwin@alumni.tufts.edu>
 
Subject: Team3S: cleaning engine - distributor?
 
 
 
The oil cap was loose and some oil got over  my engine. I want
 
to clean it now, so I've bought some Simple Green degreaser and read up on
 
a few FAQs on how to clean the engine. My question is - what do I need to
 
cover up? I read the distributor and spark plugs, but to be honest Im not
 
sure what the distributor is. Help!
 
 
 
Mike 97 VR4
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
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Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2003 11:41:46 -0800
 
From: Mike Gerhard <gerhard1@llnl.gov>
 
Subject: Re: Team3S: cleaning engine - distributor?
 
 
 
The distributor is where the spark plug wires converge.
 
 
 
I seem to recall reading the Simple Green label and I'm thinking it had a
 
warning about aluminum. You might try it on a small spot before using over
 
the complete engine.
 
 
 
- --------------------------------------------------------------
 
Mike Gerhard           1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4  Pearl White
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
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Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2003 11:44:49 -0800
 
From: "Guy, Michael (CS)" <michael.guy@ngc.com>
 
Subject: RE: Team3S: cleaning engine - distributor?
 
 
 
You actually don't have a distributor, you have coil packs. However...that
 
is besides the point. Follow the spark plug wires back to where they connect
 
to the coil packs and cover up that point.
 
 
 
When you are spraying down the motor(we used pressure washers and Spray 9 at
 
British American,) try to avoid spraying directly at any electrical
 
connections.
 
 
 
Somebody else will have to fill in some more, but that is all I can really
 
think of.
 
 
 
Mike Guy
 
92 Stealth SOHC
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
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Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2003 14:54:14 -0500
 
From: "Mannah, Zinnah" <ZMANNAH@imf.org>
 
Subject: RE: Team3S: Replacing my Engine
 
 
 
Please help me, I need to replace my 91 Stealth RT TT engine, the dealer
 
said that the engine is going bad " Knock Sensor Error ". I live in Fort
 
Washington Maryland. I'm looking for a shop that knows how to work on
 
stealth.
 
 
 
Any info would be helpful.
 
 
 
Zee
 
91 Dead RT TT Stealth
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
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Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2003 15:20:37 -0500
 
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <starkeyje@bipc.com>
 
Subject: RE: Team3S: cleaning engine - distributor?
 
 
 
If you have a VR4, the distributor is under the Cannuter Valve.  JK  VR4s don't have distributors--they have fully electronic ignitions.
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
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Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2003 17:41:15 -0500
 
From: Marc Jonathan Jacobs <Marc.J.Jacobs@alcatel.com>
 
Subject: Team3S: Still Shudders on Acceleration
 
 
 
Are you talking about HARD acceleration in 1st or 2nd gear?  I am getting the
 
same thing right now, and I believe it is a splines stripped on the shaft
 
between tranny and t-case.  I only get it on really hard launches right now.  I
 
don't drive very hard lately (mostly because of it) and I am scared to take it
 
apart.  What I don't know - won't hurt me!
 
 
 
Maybe someone on the list that has experienced stripped splines can comment?
 
 
 
- --
 
Marc J. Jacobs          '94 Blue VR-4
 
xDSL Hardware Development
 
Alcatel, USA     (919) 850-6386
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
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Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2003 17:06:58 -0600
 
From: "merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
 
Subject: Re: Team3S: Still Shudders on Acceleration
 
 
 
I have. Or, at least when we pulled the tranny, it looked like I was about
 
to have a problem.
 
 
 
It's easy enough to check. Put it up on a rack at yer local muffler shop,
 
and have them drop the downpipe and the transfer case. The T-case comes out
 
with 5 bolts. If you know what you are doing, you can get it out of there
 
in 15-20 minutes. (When diagnosing an annoying tranny leak, we dropped the
 
T-case about four times in a two week period on jackstands on my garage
 
floor, so it ain't that hard to get out.)
 
 
 
Once the T-case is out, you have a clear view of the output shaft. Check it
 
for stripped splines.
 
 
 
Rich/slow old poop
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
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Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2003 18:44:43 -0500
 
From: Patrick Smyth <smythpal@sympatico.ca>
 
Subject: Re: Team3S: Still Shudders on Acceleration
 
 
 
I have *no* shudder in first, then shudder accelerating in all other gears.
 
 
 
Pat Smyth 92 Stealth RT/TT Electric Blue
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
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Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2003 23:07:30 -0500
 
From: "David Thrower" <repairerr@worldnet.att.net>
 
Subject: RE: Team3S: Transfer Case Recall
 
 
 
Leo,
 
 Take it in, get it done. It's harmless. If it is not leaking, at least you
 
will get a fluid change for free. If it is leaking, or has all leaked out,
 
then you will probally get a new x-fer case. In my case, mine leaked like
 
hell. A few days before the recall hit the list, I had my case out on the
 
floor in pieces, looking at severe bearing damage, ready to go to Applied
 
Bearings for replacement bearings. Well when the notice hit the list, I
 
threw that thing back together, put it back in the car, called the dealer
 
and scheduled an appointment. After they looked at it, they ordered me a new
 
case, and had it in the next week, no problem. Take advantage of the
 
situation. What can it hurt.
 
 Dave Thrower
 
 92 Stealth R/T TT
 
 131,000 MI
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
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Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 01:25:02 -0800
 
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
 
Subject: Re: Team3S: cleaning engine - distributor?
 
 
 
Only SOHC model 3S cars have distributors.  DOHC models have 3 coil packs.
 
 
 
I had always heard that we shouldn't wash our engines - that water might get
 
into places that it shouldn't.  But Geoff sprayed my (dirty) engine with
 
Simple Green once, then hosed it down gently.  No damage.  I guess water CAN
 
be forced into things, if you use high pressure...
 
 
 
- ---Forrest
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
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Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 06:31:21 -0800
 
From: "Andy" <awoll1@pacbell.net>
 
Subject: Re: Team3S: cleaning engine - distributor?
 
 
 
Personally, I use Simple Green but I only do a quarter of the engine
 
compartment at a time.  After rinsing I start the engine and bring it to
 
operating temperature to let it dry off completely.  That way, if something
 
has gone wrong, at least I have a very good idea where the problem is.  I
 
have encountered no problems at all doing it this way.  I also agree with
 
Forrest that using very little pressure with the rinse water is the way to
 
go.  Much better to use a short bristle parts brush to push the green into
 
the grease rather than using high pressure from a hose to blow the grease
 
off.  Just my 2cents worth.
 
 
 
Andy
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
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Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 10:51:20 -0500
 
From: "Williams, Tommy F" <WilliamsTF@bernstein.com>
 
Subject: Team3S: Help with Trouble Code Please!
 
 
 
Has anyone seen this code before? It's not listed in the Mitsubishi service
 
manual.
 
********************************************************************
 
P2000 -- Unknown Powertrain DTC (SAE Controlled; Fuel and Air Metering)
 
 
 
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
 
 
Tommy
 
'96 VR-4
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
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Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 11:28:38 -0600
 
From: "merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
 
Subject: Re: Amsoil, Moil 1, Redline (Re: Team3S: Oil flap and when to change. A personal look.)
 
 
 
Yes, this is one of the dirty little secrets of NASCAR. It seems people
 
with other oil sponsorships pour out the sponsor's oil, fill up the empty
 
cans/bottles with Mobil 1 (at their own expense), and use Mobil 1
 
exclusively. That way, when anyone sees them changing oil or adding oil
 
trackside, it LOOKS like they are using the sponsor's products. Can you
 
imagine anyone really using STP?
 
 
 
I'd like to ask Dave Despain a question about Mobil 1 one night...
 
 
 
Rich/slow old poop
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2 #304
 
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