Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Monday, November 17
2003 Volume 02 : Number 302
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Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 12:36:06 -0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
Test pipe with electric cut out
Nope --- but it's kind of a no brainer. The two places shown below make
the
electric cutouts and it pretty easy to modify an existing 3"
testpipe with a 'Y'
for the cut out. One outfit includes the 'Y' for
an additional $20.
The cutout from DMH seems to be a little better design -- it looks to have
better
thermal isolation for the motor and maybe even a gearbox [ I haven't
called ].
It's a little more pricey though --- $180 no shipping
The McCord is only $105 plus shipping [ figure another $15 ].
The 'Y' is $20 from DMH plus a couple of 3" gaskets [ see recient posts ]
at
about $10 each and you've got from $140 to $ 220 --- oops forgot a switch
of
some kind --- $10.
Jim Berry
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Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 12:52:56 -0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Re: Test pipe with electric cut out
Edit to my previous post: Please ignore the extra i in recent.
In order to avoid a nastygram from Forrest Grump I implore you to please
ignore the extra i in recent -- Bob hates it when I don't spell correctly [
reference
the scandalous axel/axle issue I was responsible for ]. Bob
implied that several
English teachers threatened to quit the field after
reading my axel post.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
At 07:02 PM 11/15/2003 -0800, Tyson Varosyan wrote:
>Yea, if anyone
finds 2 hole 3" gaskets, or better yet flanges PLEASE let me
>know. They
do not exist (I don't know where the heck Stillen gets theirs).
I don't understand the problem. I just took my exhaust gaskets up
to
Denny's Muffler shop, here in Cedar Rapids, and they rummaged through
their
pile of replacement gaskets, and came up with three that fit
perfectly.
Seems like any decent shop should have similar supply of
gaskets.
Rich/slow old poop>
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 18:51:01 -0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Please I need help with the boost controllor installation
guide????
I actually have a copy of the Profec B manual (in Japanese) for anyone who
is interested.
It was faxed to me by Alamo
Motorsports.
Chuck Willis
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 17:04:13 -0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 3"
exhaust gasket
What ya got for a downpipe ??? most of the stuff is 2 1/2" not 3". If you
have 3" after the
merge point of the downpipes you need a 3" cat and a 3" cat
back exhaust.
If you have 2 1/2" stuff it appears to be easier --- I'm just getting up to
speed on this
stuff.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 17:53:41 -0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Polyurethane suspension bushings
What's the scoop here boys and girls --- all the whining that's been
done
about the lack of afetrmarket bushings and when somebody finally
decides
to try and get something built all we get is 2 guys from the
list :-(
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 19:17:03 -0700
From: "Jim Floyd" <
jim_floyd7@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Polyurethane suspension bushings
These things come with the lubrication built in - such a deal.
Check it
out.
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 19:35:53 -0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 3"
exhaust gasket
yeah but --- you probably have the precats gutted not replaced by a
precat
eliminator. That leaves the pipes from the precat at 2 1/4" each and
the main
cat at 2 1/2" in and out to a 2 1/2" cat back. I'm not sure what the
Stillen
downpipe has for tubing size --- their website didn't say !!! But
it's possible
that it's two 2 1/4" tubes to a 2 1/2" tube.
What I got from 3SX was two 2 1/2" to a 3" plus I have the DN precat
eliminators [ that for the modded engine in my garage ]. When done I
will
have eliminated the precats and will have a 3" down pipe back system
with
a test pipe and electric cutout [ offroad use only ]. Probably a dual
outlet so
I don't have to plug the second exhaust hole in the bumper.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
The Stillen downpipe is two 2.5" pipes going into one 3" pipe. But, guess
what, it comes with a nice OEM Mitsubishi gasket set, P/N MB687002,
MB687002 and MR323619, all only 2.2" in ID!
;-)
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 01:53:52 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 3" exhaust gasket
Don't plan on actually using it at Laguna Seca. There's a 90db sound
limit,
and they enforce it.
The idea of an electric cutout is terrific. I haven't seen one since
the
60's... I've had a couple of mechanical cutouts through the years,
but they
melted pretty fast on those big V-8s. (Cheap materials was all
we could
afford.) They also had a nasty habit of burning cars
up-- It's one thing to
have flames shooting out the exhaust, but when
it happened under the car -
poof - *ignition*. ;-)
Can't wait to see the one you'll have...
- --Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 07:26:57 -0600
From: "xwing" <
xwing@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 3"
exhaust gasket
A year or 2 ago after a noise ticket (in the land of Loud
Harley-Davidsons
who get NO noise tickets) I was looking at this some
Japanese websites that
advertised some neat/good quality electric or cable
operated exhaust
cutouts, I think they went up to at least 3" /75 or 80mm,
maybe bigger...I
think some were a valve that just cut the area down so
decreasing noise too.
JT
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 08:34:26 -0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Winter Storage Prep?
Search the archives. There's a ton of info on this.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 08:43:13 -0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Winter Storage Prep?
Here's my write up on the 3SI website:
I've been storing my car now every winter for the last 7 years. Here's what
I do. First, I put Stabil in the tank and fill the gas tank. Driving the car
home will make sure the Stabil gets dispersed throughout the fuel system.
Second, after I put the car in the garage for the last time, I immediatley
change the oil and filter because I don't want oil with impurities sitting in
the engine for a few months. After I change the oil, the car doesn't get started
until the spring.
Third, I unplug the fuel pump relay and crank the engine a few times to get
the new, clean oil dispersed throughout the engine.
Fourth, I disconnect the battery and put it on an automatic deep-cycle
battery charger.
Fifth, I cover all the exhaust openings with plastic bags to keep moisture
out.
Sixth, I raise the car just enough that the tires are just about touching
the ground to prevent flat spots when I take the car out in the spring. I keep
the tires fully inflated.
Seventh, I spray WD-40 on my polished engine parts to prevent corrosion
(they won't be getting regularly heated up because the engine won't be started
for a few months, so there's no opportunity to burn off the moisture that will
build up).
That's about it. In the spring, I'll connect everything back up EXCEPT the
fuel pump relay. Then I'll crank the engine a few times to get oil to the top
end (it's easier on the engine to do it that way--you don't want the engine
running at 1000 RPM after it's sat with limited oil on the top end). Then I'll
hook up the relay and start 'er up.
Some of it is a little overkill in my view, like draining the radiator,
heater core and block.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 06:25:39 -0800
From: "Gizmo" <
kdmorg@comcast.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Replacing slushbox fluid
Hi Folks,
Ok, I do know that you can replace the entire fluid capacity
by
disconnecting the high pressurre side and starting the car with a
friend
adding tranny fluid to replace what is pumping out until you have
either 1.
see a color change in the fluid pumping out or 2. having replaced
the entire
fluid capacity of the tranny (7quarts I belive).
My question is could you disconnect the line as stated but instead of
a
friend pouring fluid in the top, attach a hose to the other end of the
line
you just disconnected and putting that into a container of tranny fluid
(I
get mine in 2 1/2 gallon jugs). Would that suck the fluid into the tranny
to
replace what was being discharged?
Thanks!
Keith (Gizmo) Still standin' and kickin'
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 07:30:12 -0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 3"
exhaust gasket
It won't be ready for Laguna, it's for my 'new' engine. Laguna is one of
the reasons
I considered the cutout, I can make some noise and reduce exhaust
backpressure
when required e.g. street bully mode or I can tone it down to be
in line with the
demure, sophisticated gentleman that I am.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 10:49:52 -0500
From: "Neil Krueger" <
javagypsy@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Moving, Must sell my stealth
Hello everyone. After many years of enjoyment, I am moving from coast
to
coast and now must sell my Stealth. I am currently living in
Virginia
and can deliver within this region. It is a base model '92(white)
with
the following mods, new Mitsubishi bushings, springs and brake
lines.
Smiths "twister" 17x8 alloy wheels with BFGoodrich 245-45-17 KDWS
tires.
Bradi drilled and slotted rotors, Axxis deluxe plus pads. KYB
GR-2
shocks/struts. All these parts have been on the car for only 500
miles
or so. Kenwood Excelon in dash CD and Infinity Kappa series
speakers.
It's not a race car, but it is clean, nice driving and dependable.
I
have owned the car since '98 and have most of the receipts
for
maintenance and all of the parts I have put on the car. I have it
listed
locally for $5300.00, but make me an offer. Any other questions
fell
free to e-mail me. Thanks.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 08:01:52 -0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 3"
exhaust gasket
You noticed that too --- you can hear those damn things for a mile and
they
don't seem to get stopped. If you ran a car at those sound levels you
wouldn't
last a day.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 10:50:57 -0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Test pipe with electric cut out
The V8 guys have used em for years.
Usually, cabon buildup & heat eventually jams the works..or kills
the
motor..etc. Let us know how yours goes.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 18:26:23 -0500
From: "Bob G" <
Rguirlinger@cfl.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Overheating - The Sequel
Well, my last post described my overheating sob-story, where I asked
what
kind of problems I might expect as a by-product of the extreme
temps. I've
got an answer.
After replacing absolutely all of the hoses that carry coolant from
one
place to another under the hood and through the firewall (it WAS a PITA),
I
got in, crossed my fingers and cranked her up. To my great relief,
no
noises, no smoke, no problems. Car ran strong. This was a week
and a half
ago.
Fast-forward to today. I start the car up this morning and
immediately
notice smoke from the tail pipe. It goes away within 15 -
20 seconds.
Later today, I started her again after she had been sitting for a
couple of
hours. More smoke and, again, it goes away in a short period
of time.
I'm guessing that the high temps from my overheating episode melted my
valve
stem seals. Do I hear an Amen, Brother?
Has anyone here replaced the seals? Can it be done without removing
the
heads (compressed air or the "rope trick")?
Bob G
92 VR-4
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#302
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