Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Friday, November 14
2003 Volume 02 : Number 299
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Hurrah! an answer at last! Actually, the car WILL shift without the
little block, but you may be able to shift out of a gear into neutral without
the clutch if the pin is not in the little block.
Also, the
L-shaped bracket is very resistant to bending, but the metal part that holds the
pivot point for the L-shaped bracket is fairly easy to bend out of shape when
working on other things in close quarters, like the hoses from the intercoolers
to the y-pipe. My son discovered this while changing his battery
cables.
Chuck Willis
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 03:33:32 GMT
From:
h760@netzero.netSubject: Team3S: Engine
Rebuild
I have a 92 vr4, in need of major engine repair. Without taking it
apart, I can see through the spark plug hole that #3 piston is gone.
Is there
a reliable mechanic in northern California anyone can recommend.
Robert
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 21:24:58 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Engine Rebuild
Hey, Robert,
There's no good shop that I know of quite so far North as you are...
My most
trusted mechanic is right here in SF - a meticulous whiz named Willy,
who owns
Wynn's Motors 415 626-6936. Their full contact info is on the
"Good Guys"
Dealers and Vendors page - they give Team3S members a
discount. (Check the
Team3S FAQ Index Page under Basics). Tell
Willy that I sent you. I've had so
much work done there, I gave him a
copy of the 94 Stealth Repair Manuals!
He's done lots of work on on my VR-4
(replaced turbos twice, installed all my
mods, done suspension, electrical,
A/C work...), and he put the new engine in
the Stealth for me. I really
appreciated that he talked me into a *full*
labor warranty, since the rings
didn't seat well on break-in, and they had to
decide to re-do the job or
replace the engine. NO cost to me! Chrysler
decided that
it's a dud, so they are replacing it.
He's also got another Stealth engine replacement job in house besides
mine,
(Greg Berkin, who towed his car all the way up from Santa Clara), and
he just
finished an engine job for another VR-4 (who I don't know).
He's done David
Mosher's engine ('92TT), and a number of other members'
engines... Top notch
service, but you'll pay big city prices. And
he's worth every dime. He
charges $1500 to $1800 to remove and replace
an engine.
Good luck!
Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 23:35:40 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Engine Rebuild
Top notch service, but you'll pay big city prices. And he's worth
every dime.
He charges $1500 to $1800 to remove and replace an engine.
GOOD GOD!!! The place I would fully trust here in San Antonio (If
I
wasn't doing the work myself) quoted me $900 for a direct engine
swap...
- -Cody
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 22:35:17 -0700
From: "Paul Rupp" <
3000GT-VR4@acorp.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Vibration on right turn and hard start questions
Hi,
I know next to nothing about our cars, but need to make a decision to
keep
or bail on my 94 VR4 with 150K miles. Engine needs to be rebuilt,
first,
and I've got a price on that. It is not really in my budget, but
buying a
new car even less so. But I'm also having two other problems,
and was
wondering if anyone could help me decide if the other problems are
major or
minor, and possibly a cost estimate if the problem indicated is
obvious.
1) When I make a right turn, I get noticeable vibration in the car.
The
higher the speed of the turn, the more vibration. I've been trying
to
figure out where I notice it most, and I guess I'd have to say in
the
pedals. The steering wheel doesn't vibrate hardly at all.
There is no
vibration when going straight or turning left, at pretty much any
speed, but
the vibration on right turn happens at any speed above a
crawl. Probably
related to this, I also have a pretty strong right-pull
while driving. I
just had new tires put on, so I guess there isn't
anything obviously wrong
under the car, or maybe they didn't even look.
BTW, the vibration was
happening prior to the new tires' installation.
I was told when the new
tires were put on that my passenger-side rear wheel
is bent (on the inside,
not visible from the outside of the car). They
wouldn't/couldn't give me an
idea of how badly it was bent, and they didn't
even know if it would make a
difference in the wear on the tires. Could
this be the cause of all the
vibration and my right-pull? Or is it
there something else I should look
for/look at?
2) For several months now I have had trouble starting my car. What I
mean
by this is that I may have to turn the key several times- sometimes
5-10
times, often at least twice. Worse (5-10 times) when it is cold,
or when I
haven't driven it in a day or two. When it doesn't start,
there is no
turn-over, no crank, just a "click" somewhere under the hood,
every time I
turn the key. Eventually it will turn over (always has so
far), and it
immediately starts once I get the engine to crank, no trouble
with that.
Any ideas would be appreciated. I love my car, but I don't have the
mula to
throw good money after bad (is there any such thing as bad money?),
so I
need to make a decision without spending a ton of money getting
a
"diagnostic" from a place that I wouldn't trust anyway.
BTW, zero mods, completely stock 1994 6-Speed VR4.
Thanks!
- - Paul
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 21:42:38 -0800
From: "Greg Berkin" <
greg@thinkdigital.tv>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Engine Rebuild
Bob's right on! Willy replaced my water pump (also timing belt, as
well
as brakes, shocks, etc.) and the car is ready to go... I thought
I
needed a new engine, as I experienced a scary truck-like noise as
the
water pump disintegrated, but it was really good news. I called
Triple
A, threw some new brake rotors and pads in the front seat, and sent
the
car 40 miles to Willy. He called the next day and confirmed it was
the
water pump and I didn't need a new engine. Whew! (Thanks for
all the
helpful guidance Team3S...)
Wynn's is a welcome respite from some of the other places
I've
frequented. Thanks to Willy and to Bob! I get the car back
on Friday.
Can't wait!
Best,
Greg Berkin
'92 Dodge Stealth R/T
(also 57 Lancia Aurelia, 61 Buick
Skylark)
www.thinkdvds.com
------------------------------
>1) When I make a right turn, I get noticeable vibration in the
car. The
>higher the speed of the turn, the more vibration.
Wheel bearing, right front. Check to be sure: jack up the car so the front
wheels are off the ground. Try to push UP on the wheel, or in and out from the
top and bottom. Grab the sumbitch top and bottom and shake it. If it moves up
and down, even a click or two, you have a bad wheel bearing, and it can cause
the symptoms you describe.
Been there, done that.
>2) For several months now I have had trouble starting my car.
What I mean
>by this is that I may have to turn the key several times-
sometimes 5-10
>times, often at least twice.
>Engine needs to be rebuilt, first,
and I've got a price on
that.
When you rebuild the motor, install new plugs, wiring, etc. Tighten down
all the cables, clamps, hoses and pipes. That should take care of the problem,
whatever it is.
Rich/slow old poop
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 00:30:39 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Engine Rebuild
So? That's totally logical, isn't it? Income here is 70% higher
than S.A.,
so we should expect 70% higher prices. Median Family Income
in San Francisco
is $69k, while in San Antonio it's $41k. Using the
same ratio, the $1500 NT
engine swap here *should* cost $891 in San Antonio,
not $900. Your guy's
price is high. ;-) Here are the census
numbers for other cities, for the
curious out there:
http://www.census.gov/acs/www/Products/Ranking/SS01/R14T160.htm
Besides, San Francisco is among the top 3 visitors' destinations in the
world
for 5 years running, with features like the TransAmerica building, the
Bay
Bridge, the Golden Gate Bridge, Alcatraz, and The San Francisco Bay, and
is
universally regarded as one of the most beautiful cities in the
world.
San Antonio has a cemetery for dead cowboys, and a church. ;-)
- --Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 04:48:03 -0800
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: Team3S:
This is never going to end... (WAS: Need expert help following a JDM
install)
To those following the thread, I am still having a hell of a time with
my
car and I am running out of stuff to swap.
Latest work performed:
Changed out the ECU with another from a local club member's car.
No
noticeable change.
Changed out the MAS with another from a local club member's car.
No
noticeable change.
Changed out the CAS from my old engine and re-adjusted spark timing
per
manual instructions. This did something... Mind ya, I did verify with
the
old CAS that I was running correct timing of 5 BTDC. This other one I
know
is good, its from my old engine and it to is correctly set. First thing
I
noticed was that when performing the timing adjustment, I can to bring
my
RPM up a lot when connected to the pin in the brown pin connector (the
pin
that puts the car into basic ignition mode). After disconnecting this
pin
the RPM went up quite a bit...
After the change of the CAS, I went for a test drive and there is a
change
in behavior. Before the car seemed to run ok at the high RPM range
under
load - it was in the low-med RPMs that under boost I got backfires into
the
intake and hesitation. Now with the new CAS the backfires have moved
into
the exhaust, mostly but the strange thing is that now I am getting
serious
hesitation under boost in all RPM ranges. I have yet to pull and
re-examine
the plugs for signs of rich or lean mixture, but I cannot think of
what
would be causing this... I will try again later this week to hook up
with a
local club member with a near-stock car to get some datalog baselines
to
compare mine to...
In the meantime I am confused as to what the CAS switch did...
Question: I remember reading when assembling my old heads that the
CAS
needed to point a certain direction within the cam. The CAS can be put in
2
different ways and there was supposed to be some mark to show which way
the
little notch should point. I was never able to locate the mark on the
cam,
but did locate the mark on the CAS. This time when changing out the CAS,
I
was careful to put the replacement CAS in the same orientation as
the
original. Could it be that the JDM CAS was in backwards? Does it even
really
matter?
Tyson
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 05:45:11 -0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Engine Rebuild
Yeah, but at least in San Antonio if you drop your wallet you don't have to
kick
it to the next county before you can take a chance bending over to pick
it up.
Jim
------------------------------
>1) When I make a right turn, I get noticeable vibration in the
car. The
>higher the speed of the turn, the more vibration.
Wheel bearing, right front. Check to be sure: jack up the car so the front
wheels are off the ground. Try to push UP on the wheel, or in and out from the
top and bottom. Grab the sumbitch top and bottom and shake it. If it moves up
and down, even a click or two, you have a bad wheel bearing, and it can cause
the symptoms you describe.
****With 150K miles, front wheel bearings are likely shot.
>2) For several months now I have had trouble starting my car.
What I mean
>by this is that I may have to turn the key several times-
sometimes 5-10
>times, often at least twice.
****How do your battery cables look? They tend to get coroded inside.
Also check the connection between the cable and the starter.
>Engine needs to be rebuilt, first,
and I've got a price on
that.
****How do you know the engine needs to be rebuilt?
When you rebuild the motor, install new plugs, wiring, etc. Tighten down
all the cables, clamps, hoses and pipes. That should take care of the problem,
whatever it is.
Rich/slow old poop
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 07:27:07 -0700
From: "Rivenburg, Pete" <
privenburg@firstam.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Oil dip stick tube
Remember to bend it in the direction of the narrow axis of the dipstick,
it
wont work well if the tube is bent across the broad axis of the
dipstick.
Pete Rivenburg
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 18:47:44 -0000
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject:
Team3S: dual-side cat-back with y-split and stock tips
Does anyone sell a cat-back with a y-split (vs. a cross-over pipe from
the
muffler) that exits both sides with stock appearance (dual tips on
both
sides)? Kind of a cross between the Borla and the HKS...
Also, has anyone installed the baffles Borla customer service provides
and
verified that they really do eliminate the annoying cockpit drone?
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 21:04:26 +0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: dual-side cat-back with y-split and stock tips
> Does anyone sell a cat-back with a y-split (vs. a cross-over pipe from
the
> muffler) that exits both sides with stock appearance (dual tips on
both
> sides)? Kind of a cross between the Borla and the
HKS...
HKS it is :
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 20:09:22 -0000
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: downpipe w/ dual flex bolting to all 3 cats
ESP O.E.M Style Aluminized Downpipes are now available! These
pipes offer
the improved exhaust flow characteristics of our other downpipes,
but DO NOT
eliminate the front pre-cat. Constructed of the same
mandrel-bent tubing,
ESP's O.E.M downpipes mate up to the stock catalytic
converter and offer the
two flex sections, for a perfect fit and easy
installation.
OEM Style pipe $269
Does anyone have this downpipe? According to the Ty-Speed FAQ,
2.5"
collector pipes such as these may have xfer case clearance issues...
anyone
have experience with this?
------------------------------
I'm having a similar problem with my care, 93 Stealth. How involved is
replacing the bearings? Is it something I could do in my driveway or should
I take it in?
------------------------------
I have replaced wheel bearings in a VR4 in my carport. The AWD versions are
different from the NA FWD versions. The AWD bearings are integrated into
the hub - it is replaced as a unit. Major aggravation is breaking the nuts
loose that hold the hub on the back.
Have you ever replace rotors or struts? If so you are halfway
there.
Chuck Willis
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 20:35:24 -0000
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: dual-side cat-back with y-split and stock tips
Too bad it's a T-split rather than a Y-split. Perhaps HKS doesn't see
a
problem with the stock downpipe, either? Also, in an Email back in
January
you indicated there may be some fitment issues with the HKS:
"Otherwise the borla is very good and you save a lot of weight.
Also
fittment is great
(compared with HKS and others !!)."
What's the scoop?
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 21:59:20 +0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: downpipe w/ dual flex bolting to all 3 cats
> Does anyone sell a downpipe with two flex sections that bolts up to
both
> precats and the main cat? Y-connection a must, no crush bends
preferable.
> Kind of a cross between the Ty-Speed and the Melton...
None of the aftermarket ones have cursh bends, so no worries on
that.
Regarding the flex section, the one that is before the cat is enough.
The
precats do not ned to be flexed in between as the whole engine moves
at
startup. My opinion is : nothing else than stainless steel. My ATR has
seen
so many winters without a problem and a local muffler shop installed a
small
flex section for some bucks. I saw others getting rust at the
welding
section between the tubing and the flex section, tig welding seems to
help
against rust.
> ESP O.E.M Style Aluminized Downpipes are now available!
These
> pipes offer the improved exhaust flow characteristics of our
other
> downpipes, but DO NOT eliminate the front pre-cat.
Constructed
> of the same mandrel-bent tubing, ESP's O.E.M downpipes mate
up to
> the stock catalytic converter and offer the two flex sections,
for
> a perfect fit and easy installation.
Somehow it doesn't look like it clears a lot. Just like the Stillen
that
clears the case just a few mm in my car. IMHO, you get what you pay for
:
the hand-made y-section, the small radius 90° bends and the welding
quality.
It is my opinion that you get much more quality and professionally
made
parts from Stillen or ATR. If you need the front precat, the Stillen can
be
cut and rewelded, the ATR can get a flex section if neded too (of
course
more cost). BTW, what do you need the front precat for ?
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 13:11:11 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
OT: Anyone going to Buttonwillow this weekend Nov15-16?
We're leaving tomorrow for a NASA HPDE at Buttonwillow this weekend.
Are any
SoCal folks going to be there? Please reply on the Team3S
Racers list or to
me privateley, off the Main List...
- --Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 13:18:56 -0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Vibration on right turn and hard start questions
Not that difficult if you have basic tools and some mechanical skills. Air
tools are
highly recommended although with the proper bracing and a breaker
bar you
should be able to beat in into submission. The axel nut is the main
antagonist, at
around 200 ft pounds it would require some thought to loosen
without air tools.
I'm in the process of doing that right now --- new hubs with bearings, new
axel shafts,
and new lower ball joints. Tie rod ends were done a few months
ago. With air tools it's
pretty easy --- 1 1/4" [ 32 mm ] socket to remove
the axel nut. Then the tie rod end so you
can pull the hub/steering knuckle
out of the axel. You need to do that so you can get at the
nuts at the rear
of the hub. Remove four nuts and the hub pulls out by hand. You may be
able
to simplify the job by using an open end wrench on the hub nuts but mine were
on
very tight --- I started to use a 1/2" drive wrench to remove them but
they wouldn't budge
so I cranked up the compressor. If I couldn't move them
with a 1/2" drive and a hammer
an open end wrench ain't likely to work. You
may need a couple of pullers --- tie rod end
and maybe the axel to hub but
you can borrow those from Autozone or others.
Turns out my hub and bearings are in good shape but I figured at $60 each
I'd just
replace the damn things --- everything will be nice and tight for
Laguna Seca in a
couple of weeks. The boots were split on the axels and the
dealer wanted $60 per boot
times 4 for the front end vs. rebuilt axels at $60
each which includes new boots. The
boots on the lower control arms were also
split but rather than mess with just the boots
I'm replacing the ball joints
[ not available from dealer --- the boots are though ]
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 22:22:20 +0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: dual-side cat-back with y-split and stock tips
I just pointed to the HKS, as it is a split (inside it's an Y, not a T)
and
looks stock. I didn't said it's the best thing ! It's on the red car,
quite
and nice tone.
------------------------------
It's been a while since I've had any REAL issues to inquire about, but
one
has finally presented itself. The other night I was driving around and
made
a wrong turn. I put the car in reverse, but it didn't feel like the
gear
fully engaged so I took it back out of gear and put it back in. It went
in
reverse just fine, same with first, but when I depressed the clutch to
hit
second it went slack for about half way and regained pressure. Feeling
this
I went to pull over at the nearest suitable place. I depressed the
clutch
again to put her in nuetral, however, the car's clutch went
slack straight
to the floor. I cut the car off and investigated from
the side of the road
and found the master cylinder was empty. After a little
testing I found that
the hydraulics are leaking but I can't identify exactly
where. I can only
see that they're leaking onto the tranny from somewhere
about where the
slave cylinder is. I wanted to know if anyone could give me
instructions on
how to remove and replace the hydraulic line from the master
cylinder to the
slave cylinder, and how to remove and replace the slave
cylinder itself.
Aslo, are slave cylinders something that are known to go bad
in our cars?
Thankx for the help guys, I appreciate it greatly.
tom,
79' - 5.0L
mustang (work in progress)
96' - 3000gt N/A (panther - 18" juice rims, custom
paint (black base and
purple ghost flames), door poppers, panasonic ghost
reciever, jl audio 6
3/4" component door speakers, jl audio 6x9's, 1300w
eclipse amp, 2 -
audiobahn 12" 800w subs, 550cc injectors, K&N FIPK ,
Apexi dual canister
exhaust, custom chrome cam cover, chrome intake plenum,
full hose and line
kit, and more hp mods soon to come)
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 17:16:57 -0600
From: "William J. Crabtree" <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: clutch slave cylinder?
I think I might have a slight leak in mine too. During my current
rebuild,
I'm going to see if there's a seal kit available for it, or if you
have to
replace the whole thing. (caps shows individual parts for the
slave
cylinder, but is there a rebuild "kit"?) I just haven't gotten
that far
yet. Anybody know?
Before assuming that it's leaking though, you might want to confirm
that
your bleeder valve is closed tightly.
- -Jeff C.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 17:39:00 -0600
From: "William J. Crabtree" <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: clutch slave cylinder?
Tom,
After hitting 'SEND' I realized
that I had not really answered your
question(which was kinda rude).
Your feeder lines, and I hope
someone can back me up on this, should not
really need to be replaced.
It's a solid metal line on the firewall that
terminates at the slave cylinder
end with a rubber line. Unless this rubber
line is leaking, it's likely
your slave cylinder causing the leak (I'd place
all my money on that
anyway).
To get to your clutch slave
you'll have to remove the battery and a few
other things to get down to
it. It sits on the top rea(ish) of the
transmission and is realatively
simple to get to as things go on this car.
Once you find it, you'll not that
there are only two bolts (think, if
memorly serves) that hold it in
place. If you're going to replace it, make
sure you loosen the feed
line before removing the bolts.
Best of luck,
- -Jeff Crabtree
'91 R/T
TT(3SI
#0499)
2K Jeep TJ
Sport
St. Louis, MO
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 16:30:15 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: RE: downpipe w/ dual flex bolting to all 3 cats
> Does anyone have this downpipe? According to the
Ty-Speed
> FAQ, 2.5" collector pipes such as these may have xfer case
> clearance issues... anyone have experience with this?
I had a Stillen pipe for over a year, and there was very little clearance
between the transfer case and the downpipe. So little, that there were a
few wear marks and dings on the pipe from things banging around as the engine
moved in the mounts during driving. I don't launch my car, either.
More than my beef with the clearance of 2.5" pipes from each bank is the
issue of cross-sectional area. A pair of 2.5" pipes has 9.82 sq. in. of
cross-sectional area, while a single 3" pipe has 7.07 sq.in. of area. I'm
no MechE, but that seems like a problem to me, especially since there's all of
12" of pipe between the rear precat and the merged section, which would not
allow for much cooling of the gasses. If gasses don't cool down and you
take a large volume of gas and stuff it into a smaller volume, then there's
going to be a pressure increase. (PV=nRT) It seems to me that with
2.5" pipe from the turbos, it would result in: higher pressure/velocity in
the headers, turbine housings, and O2 housings; a pressure/velocity/temperature
drop as you dump each bank into 2.5" pipe, and then a pressure/turbulence
increase and velocity drop at the 3" collector. I'd think you want there
to be a smooth flow in the collector and that you'd want to try to maintain
exhaust velocity. Somebody tell me if I'm missing something and have it
wrong, but it seems that if you want 2.5" pipe from each bank, you need 3.5"
pipe for the collector.
The Ty-Speed version uses 2.25" pipe from each bank, which has 7.95 sq. in.
of total area. That seems like it would be a better match for a 3" pipe
when the flows are merged.
------------------------------
>I had a Stillen pipe for over a year, and there was very little
clearance
between the transfer case and the downpipe. So little, that
there were a
few wear marks and dings on the pipe from things banging around
as the
engine moved in the mounts during driving.
You have CLEARANCE? Holy mackeral!
We've had the Stillen off and on about a half-dozen times in the past
two
months, and it is a gen-u-wyne pain in the ass to get it on and off. To
get
it off, I give it a big bear hug and 250+ lb of downward pressure causes
it
to drop off the studs. Nothing stands up to old bear poop.
To get it back on, we line it up at the rear, and jack up the pipe at
the
front. With a huge CLANG it slips gently over the front studs.
There oughta be a better way.
Sumbitch works good, though.
Rich/exhausted old poop/feeling a little down...pipe
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 19:57:18 -0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt D" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: RE: downpipe w/ dual flex bolting to all 3 cats
It sounds like your analysis makes sense.
But remember we have alternate
puffs into the collector, so maybe it
could be 2.5 into 2.5 and be ok.
My opinion for turbo exhaust is the bigger the sooner the better, so
I
like the 3.5 inch if possible. But with Keeping 2.5 before the
collector.
Anyone recall dyno results for collector sizes?
It seems the seat of the pants concensus (that I've heard) is either
3
or 3.5 does quite well.
Kurt
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 19:20:43 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: clutch slave cylinder?
Yes, there is a rebuild kit, but you can buy one already rebuilt at
most
parts stores for $30-$45... you tell me the better option, $10
worth of
parts and forever cleaning, reassembling, etc, or just buying
a
basically new one for what I still consider cheap as hell!
- -Cody
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 07:13:59 -0000
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: RE: downpipe w/ dual flex bolting to all 3 cats
I agree with Erik and my preference is definitely 2.25", but I can't
find
one out there that has two flex sections and bolts up to all three
cats. A
smaller ESP would be perfect, but they haven't returned my
Email asking
about clearance and I doubt they'd be willing to build me one
with 2.25"
collector pipes. The Ty-Speed is moot considering they've
stopped
production, and I don't know if they would be willing to build a
modified
version for me anyway (front flex section moved rearward and front
collector
pipe shortened to bolt up to the front cat).
Any other ideas? Who other than Ty-Speed even makes DPs with
2.25"
collector pipes? I can't imagine I'm the only one with these
requirements,
but I sure can't find a perfect product. My stock
downpipe is leaking
profusely through a hole in the rear flex pipe (i.e.-
before the main cat!),
so I'd like to address the problem ASAP.
Thanks!
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#299
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