Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, November 12 2003 Volume 02 : Number
298
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Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 18:17:21 -0700
From: "Erik Petterson" <
erik@microworks.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Oil filter coolers, gimmick or not?
I think I'll pass on it. It was just a thought I had today when I
took the
oil filter off for a change... It's was pretty hot, and I had
just seen
that cooler advertised last night...
Thanks for the input.
- -Erik
'94 R/T
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 20:29:59 -0800
From: "Ken Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Found my problem - the hard way... (WAS: Need expert help following a
JDM install)
Don't overlook the ignition module underneath the coil pack. Mine has
gone
out twice. I had the same symptoms as you described.
Good luck,
Ken
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 20:50:53 -0800
From: "Ken Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 10W40 in the tranny?!
Hey Jeff,
Where can you buy the Pennzoil Synchromesh? Not many references on
the
web...
Thanks,
Ken
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 01:54:58 -0600
From: "xwing" <
xwing@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Re: hood pin options...
Hmm, technical fastener issue here after all! I think I poked one of
the
Oracles though, oh well ;)
Wow, I say NASA is acting like some overly
officious rubes (well, maybe
that's not fair to NASA, it wasn't THEM that
started this Crusade Against
Dzus Fasteners) for NOT allowing Dzus fasteners
to be used _IN ADDITION_ to
a stock hood latch, for what would constitute
EXTRA safety since the hood is
held down EVEN BETTER, and Geoff M. starts
just a'swearing away!
Fascinating, captain! :)
OK, Let the Open Minded Find Out...not JUST from somebody's contact
"Alan"
(all respect to him, probably has his good opinions too) but from
rulebooks
world over. Just because SCCA and NASA say so doesn't make it
the ONLY
right way, NOR the safest way; there CAN be More Than One Right Way
to Do
Things, unless you are hopelessly self-proud and/or
hopelessly
closed-minded. NASA and SCCA do not constitute "what is
proper" in safety;
they are free to make their OWN rules, though.
Opinions ARE like A**holes,
everybody has one, so here is a 10 minute Google
search on DZUS fastener
acceptability by some RACING series
worldwide...
Many different series, some want hood pins, some want Dzus or
other
fasteners. I bet each side has good reasons for thinking the way
they do.
Sounds to me like hood pins, stock latches, Dzus fasteners, Camlocks
are all
fine, but some series may require one...OR another...
Because all
can, have, and do work fine.
Swear at me some more Geoff, it's fun to see Mr. One Word Answer (from
God
apparently) lose it so easily. Not quite as cool and
self-possessed as we
fancy ourselves, are we? Ho Ho Ho! MEEEERRRY
CHRISTMAS!!!
;) just like I was ;) before.
JT
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 06:12:51 -0800
From: "Grd4Spd Racing" <
grd4spdracing@cox.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Drivetrain Oil Pics
a more analytical approach to see whats going on with your fluids
and
mechanicals is to have the fluids analyzed/tested for content. there is
a
place down here in San Diego that does this (forgot the name) but
this
method is an excellent way to "see" whats going on inside
your
motor/tranny/fluids.
heres a few that i found with a .15sec search on Google....
there were more but searching the net is SO much fun i didnt want to
bogart
it all ;)
i think that some of the major oil mfgs do testing as well.
regards,
terry
"If it doesn't make you go fast, we don't sell it"
Grd4Spd Racing -
www.grd4spd.com
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 14:18:45 -0000
From: Kopsick Michael J Contr
WRALC/LTET <
Michael.Kopsick@robins.af.mil>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Stock chromies - repair or replace?
TRANSWHEEL CORPORATION DOES THE SAME THING. I HAD MY 94 3000GT SL
WHEELS
DONE THERE AND THEY CAME BACK AWESOME...Transwheel Corporation 3000
Yeoman
Way HUNTINGTON, IN 46750-8800 Phone: (800)358-5040
Fax:
(219)358-8663 Contact: David Rhiver Product Categories: ...
------------------------------
On the 1st gen VR4 with the 5 speed there are two transaxle linkages, the
select linkage and the shift linkage.
The select linkage is inboard of the
shift linkage. The select linkage attaches to a pin at the top of an
"L"-shaped bracket that rotates around a bushing at the corner of the L.
The other end of the L has a pin that goes into a groove on a part that is
attached to the shift linkage. Moving the shifter left and right rotates
the L-bracket forward and backward making the pin push the shift linkage down
and up from neutral.
Okay, here's the question (finally): does the pin at the little arm of the
L-bracket sit in the slot all alone, or does it fit into a nylon cube with a
hole drilled in it?
And: does anyone know the actual names of these parts? CAPS and the
Service manual were pretty unhelpful.
Chuck Willis
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 16:34:10 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Oil catch tanks: Gimmick or legit?
Hey Jeff,
Nothing wrong with an oil catch can conected to the PCV hose (upper?,
lower?, both?). But are you sure the PCV system is the main source of your
carbon buildup? The EGR system can introduce considerable carbon.
To estimate the contribution from the PCV, look at the intake hose where
the PCV dumps into it. Is there more than a "mist" of oil on the hose/pipe from
there to the rear turbo? Also pull the plenum and look at the intake manifold.
The PCV hose from the front rocker cover dumps to a "pipe" under the manifold
that connects all the ports. How much carbon looks like it is from these holes?
Is there more toawrd the rear than the front?
To guess at the EGR's contribution, look at the plenum near the throttle
body. Is it pretty thick with buildup? Has the carbon found its way to the
throttle body bypass pasages? Does the carbon buildup extend clear to the
manifold end of the plenum? And maybe into the manifold?
If you are more concerned with carbon buildup than oil or carbon in the
combustion mixture, regardless of source, then maybe a water injection system is
more in order. From what I hear (my Aquamist system is not installed yet; it's
3rd from the top of my list now) the WI will keep the plenum and piston tops
pretty clean.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 11:28:20 -0600
From: norman <
normanross@shaw.ca>
Subject: Team3S:
help
I send out a email asking a but n/t rt stealth about the auto some guys
say
that they are fast off the line outhers say they pull hard off the line
and
that can light up the tires. then some guys say that they have no power
off
the line so witch is right because my car has no power can some one
help
THANKS Norm
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 10:17:10 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Carbon Buildup and Water Injection WAS: Oil catch
tanks
I can verifiy this from my car. I have had the Aquamist setup on my
car for about a year now and my plenum is considerably cleaner than
pre-WI. The piston tops looked pretty clean when I stuck a flexible light
into the spark plug holes. I didn't clean anything before installing the
WI system, so it seems to be able to remove previous build-up as well as prevent
future build-up.
As a side note, it seems to clean up runner #1 a little better than 2-6,
with 6 being the least "cleaned-up". That makes me think that the inertia
of the water droplets makes them more likely to end up going to the runners
farther from the throttle body. That would imply that I'm not getting an
even distribution of water to all 6 cylinders. I've verified that the
output of the WI nozzle is a very fine, atomized mist, so I was expecting a
pretty even distribution... If I am getting an uneven distribution, the
only thing I can think of to correct it would be to move the injection nozzle
from the y-pipe (about 6" from the throttle plate) to the plenum. In the
extreme case, I suppose I could put a nozzle in each intake runner, but that
would be overkill, even for me.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 11:21:01 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Snowtires revisited- Blizzak LM-22 vs WS-50 info
Updated info - Bridgestone Blizzak WS-50 vs. LM-22 Snow Tires:
I had
decided on the WS-50 for my VR-4, because of their superior performance
on
snow and ice. But when I called to order them, both the salesman and
the
tire tech guy at TireRack talked me out of it! They both said that
especially
for our (heavy old battleship) cars, the LM-22 was indeed the
right choice.
There was no question that the WS-50 was by far the best tire
for extreme snow
and ice, BUT, they are mainly for areas which have snow and
ice right through
the winter. In dry conditions, the WS-50's are
actually considered
*dangerous* for heavy cars like ours! The salesman
said "the WS-50s will take
some getting used to" on a 3S, mainly because they
act "squirrely" on the dry,
because of the 3/8" of super-soft rubber
tread. Then the tire tech guy told
me that the 99mph maximum "Q" rating
was unrealistic, and that the WS-50
really should not be used on a dry road
over 80mph. To use his words, "you'll
never get out of 3rd gear" with
WS-50 tires. At highway speeds on dry
pavement, the rubber gets even
softer, feels "greasy" (and may "chunk"), and
the car will feel like it's
"wobbling" around the turns, he said. When I told
him about my
unforgivingly hard JIC suspension, he asked, "What..., are
you
suicidal?" :-) So it looks like the tires that so many of you
are using -
the LM-22 - ARE indeed the right choice in anything *other* than
100% snow/ice
conditions. If you live in Montana or Wiconsin or the
Alps, where there is
snow and ice on the roads from November through March,
that's where the
Blizzak WS-50 will blow away everything else, including most
studded snow
tires(!). But if you ever drive on clear roads with no
snow/ice on them,
don't buy the WS-50. Stick with the Blizzak
LM-22. (I just wanted to make
sure that the facts were clear, for our
archives.) Thanks again to all for
your valuable input!
- ---Forrest
------------------------------
Help!
I installed the 3KGT headers on my 92SL. The oil dipstick tube no
longer
fits. Anybody faced this? Anybody got any bright ideas on
what to make a
new tube from? It's about 7/16" in diameter and will
need 3 mild bends.
TIA
Jim W
92 3000GT SL
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 14:21:08 -0800
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Anyone care to see what $140 fuse looks like? (WAS: Need expert help following a
JDM install)
Well, drove down to my friend/club member Paul's house today to pick up
his
ECU from a '91. Took mine along to show him (btw my ECU looks perfect,
no
leaks no signs of any electrical damage). By the time I got there with
his
Latte he had his ECU out. Looks identical to mine, but the part number is
1
higher. He said his was replaced a long time. Opened them up,
everything
inside is identical so we call it good...
Right before I am about to head out, I am like, "you know what, lets try
my
ECU in your car." So we do. Guess what... It starts! His 8 year old kid
was
around so I tried to contain the loud cursing that was going on
inside.
Anyhow, with that in mind and his ECU and MAS in hand for
future
troubleshooting I head to my house and on the way pick up
another
multimeter. I have like 4 of the damn things, but when you do engine
swaps
are a rate of 1 per month, things get lost...
Anyhow, start going through the fuses. Checked everything under the hood
in
both fuse boxes, checked some of the critical relays etc. Then went to
the
logger again. Hooked up Paul's ECU and the logger. Noticed logger
batteries
were almost dead thinking to myself, "maybe that's why..." Get new
ones,
still no reading. So I go in the cramped foot compartment with a
flashlight,
a multimeter and a prayer. Testing all fuses, the last one I come
to is a
15A on the second row. No positive beep, but when I tried to test it
I can
hear a relay under the hood clicking (my ignition key was on). I'm
like, I
wonder what this is (since the fuse box cover with the legend on it
has been
lost somewhere in the back seat for some time). I go digging back
there and
finally find it. Fuse is labeled "Engine". WTF?! So I pull the dang
thing
out and sure enough it's fried. Put a fuse in the hole, turn the key
and the
bloody car starts!
I was thinking about fuse testing last night on the side of the road...
I
will never leave without a multi-meter again! The below fuse cost me a
$140
tow!
Tyson
PS: With this out of the way, I get to have the joys of troubleshooting
my
mid-rpm stutter all over again... BTW, why would an ECU fuse pop?
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 00:03:34 +0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Carbon Buildup and Water Injection WAS: Oil catch
tanks
You can do this with a water splitter and using the smallest jet
installed
on the opposite of the intake plenum. Just install the check valve
too to
make sure you'll never get any droplets in there :-) Also make sure
to
install a smaller jet in the original location due to reach the total
amount
of water and to keep the pressure high.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 17:31:26 -0600
From: "Jesse Rink" <
jrink-3si@wi.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: car on jack stands
Yesterday I had to put my car up on 4 jack stands so I could remove
my
driveshaft while waiting for the new one to arrive. My tires are
STILL on
the car. Is having the car raised off the ground with the
tires on going to
cause problems? I could be without a driveshaft for
another week or two...
At first I thought, "don't be lazy, just lower the car
back to the ground",
but then I became curious as to whether this would
actually cause a problem
or not - so I'm asking. Thanks.
Jesse Rink
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 18:57:38 -0500
From: "IndyStealth" <
indystealth@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: let's talk about 5 speed transaxle linkage ...
Chuck:
#1: The little white "cube" is a must-have. Won't shift without
it. You
described it perfectly. Make sure to lube it with some
white grease when
you install it.
#2: You won't find this "cube" part in CAPS, unless it matches the
one on
the non-turbo (I don't know). I can tell you that the shift linkages
are
similar, but not identical. The non-turbo linkage is very well
broken down
in CAPS, but the turbo is not. You need to find a junker
car and buy it
from that. Try posting on 3SI.org, see if anyone has an
extra to sell you.
Roger Roskam
91 "Indy" Stealth RT/TT
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 18:09:52 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: car on jack stands
No problem either way...
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 18:46:58 -0700
From: "Jim Floyd" <
jim_floyd7@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Oil dip stick tube
I had the same problem with the DN Performance headers.
Just bend the
shit out of it and make it fit - we did.
Jim Floyd
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#298
***************************************
