Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Friday, November 7
2003 Volume 02 : Number 294
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Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2003 17:08:57 -0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt D" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Advice on buying a used 3000GT SL...
Sounds like a steal.
Some things to consider for replacement
condition..
clutch - most likely
trans - auto/manual, depends on how
driven, may not be a problem on NA
struts/shocks - most likely
a/c - check working
half shafts/bearings - may last for a
while
battery/alt - 3-5 year life? from last change
antenna - 3-5 year
life ?
exhaust - depends on what has been replaced
Kurt 96 NA, 70K mi, which I would not let go of for even $10,000
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Date: Thu, 06 Nov 2003 17:18:07 -0500
From:
alchu@nyc.rr.comSubject: RE: Team3S:
Advice on buying a used 3000GT SL...
5-spd manual...
Thanks for all the tips so far, guys. Keep them coming!
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Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2003 15:01:30 -0800
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Full gasket set
One advice I have is do not buy the kits on eBay that claim to be
identical
to OEM. I did, they are not like OEM. Some stuff was actually
better than
OEM, but important parts like head and header gaskets were not as
good
looking to me. I got my OEM kit at Bellevue Mitsu for about the same
price
you got there. That seems to be the going discount rate.
Tyson
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Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2003 18:04:32 -0500
From: "Vedran" <
1994TT@comcast.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Which part goes here on the fire wall.......????
I am almost done with hooking up the hoses and harnesses to my
rebuilt
engine. However, I can't remember what part was hooked up
to the stud on
the fire wall. It looks like a 10 mm nut goes on this
stud. It's located
right behind the rear turbo, maybe about 2 inches
below the rear turbo.
Also, it's about 4 in to the left, if you're facing the
car, of the metal
clamp that holds the big AC hose that is isolated with some
sort of rubber.
Thanks a lot
Vet 94 TT.
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Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2003 15:11:19 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Advice on buying a used 3000GT SL...
Contact any "Good Guys" dealer and I think you'll do $40-$50 better -
San
Rafael, Norco, Tallahassee, Conicelli all give 20-25% discounts to
Team3S
members. Here are list prices as of a few months ago: Timing
Belt $145.55,
Water Pump $98.17, Timing Belt Tensioner $27.27, Idler Pulley
$26.20, which
totals $297 (plus the tensioner pulley is maybe $20), so $305
is almost list.
Also, Kurt said:
>Kurt 96 NA, 70K mi, which I would not let go of for
even $10,000
- -----------------------------
Same here-- '94 Stealth NT, 42k miles - wouldn't sell for $10k+
- --Forrest
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Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2003 15:52:02 -0800 (PST)
From:
vr4glenn@newsguy.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Which part goes here on the fire wall.......????
You might find your stud in one of the pictures on this page:
Good luck,
Glenn
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 07 Nov 2003 00:02:41 +0000
From:
mjannusch@comcast.netSubject: Re:
Team3S: Which part goes here on the fire wall.......????
> can't remember what part was hooked up to the stud on
> the fire
wall. It looks like a 10 mm nut goes on this stud.
If I'm thinking of the right part, it is just a little black plastic
flanged nut that screws on that stud. It helps hold the firewall
insulation in place and doesn't appear to be particularly critical.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
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Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2003 20:29:56 -0500
From: "Joseph Spainhour" <
spainhou@bellsouth.net>
Subject:
Team3S: exhaust system
Hello all,
Well it is time for a new exhaust. I am thinking about getting the
3SX
custom downpipe with the RT ultra flow cat and the Borla cat
back.
What do you guys think? Anyone have any experience with any of
these?
Joseph
93 3KGT VR-4
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Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2003 17:51:18 -0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
exhaust system
I just bought the 3SX downpipe --- it seems to be well constructed and has
the
stainless flex section. I'm installing mine with the DN precat
eliminators and there
seems to be a small issue with the gaskets but it looks
minor in nature. The construction
is mild steel not aluminized or stainless.
I haven't installed it so I can't comment on fit.
I'll probably have it
coated along with the headers and turbine housings to help control
underhood
temperatures . I'm also using a test pipe for my offroad driving, the
cat get
installed when necessary.
Jim Berry
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Date: Thu, 06 Nov 2003 21:55:30 -0500
From: Christian Longtin <
Chriscooll@videotron.ca>
Subject:
Team3S: 2nd Gear synchro
Hi everyone,
I'm planning on changing my weak 2nd gear synchro in my
5-speed tranny and I
was wondering where are the places I can find the
synchro and who sells it
for less, is it Kormex ?
Christian Longtin
1992 3000gt vr-4
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Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2003 08:20:25 -0500
From:
bryan.goldman@ps.ge.comSubject:
Team3S: Information on buying a 92 Stealth Rt
I have a oportunity to get a a 92 Stealth RT non turbo for around
$7,000
with 77,000 miles on it. I was just wanting to know what the average
price
was for this car.
Bryan,
Current owner of a 92 sohc Stealth
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 07 Nov 2003 14:40:48 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: exhaust system
Due to the wide range of temperature changing conditions I highly recommend
to buy a stainless steel downpipe. This especially with removed precats as
the temp in the DP rises a lot. A flex section is not a problem as there
are no reports of problems concerning this. Even then it is questionable
where a flex section should be. The optimal solution has one between the
two pipes to the precat housings and before the main cat.
Coating may help regarding the influence of oustide (salt, grain, stones,
etc.) and does not have much if any effect to the underhood temp when the
car is moving.
Main cat can be taken what you want. Don't go with a ceramic version one
and choose a metal catalyst converter.
Cat back can be chosen what you
want. For the Borla you need the additional
3 baffles to be welded in to
prevent the annoying droning. It is the most
lightweight and straight design
bit the flange should be replaced too as it
is made for the stock cat size.
ATR is an easy solution, but the tips are
not looking good. There is a
single side version available but that doesn't
look nice on our cars either.
HKS Drager and HS dual side bot hare alumized
stell. The Dual side is as
heavy as the stock one, silent to 4000rpm and
easy to bolt on.
I recommend to go with a light weight system that is made of durable
quality over a cheap solution. ATR and Stillen are first choices by my
customers. Aluminized and mild steel are not asked. Titanium is way
overkill. Making a custom system is good but you should calculate the
lenght of the pulses and backpressure. Otherwise you will get an annyoing
droning and the pulses start to work against each other. Usually they are
eliminated by the turbine wheel but generated by the DP when the both are
commign together. A dual setup turbo to back is not recommended (heavy, no
gain seen so far)
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Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2003 07:51:46 -0800 (PST)
From:
vr4glenn@newsguy.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Information on buying a 92 Stealth Rt
That sounds high to me.
To check prices go to autotrader.com, click on advanced search, and
enter
criteria such as milage. You should get plenty of listings.
Other sources are KBB.com (but I don't trust the data) and
Edmunds.com.
Glenn
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Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2003 08:49:28 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bforrest@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: exhaust system
That's almost exactly what I have on my 91 VR-4: Borla cat back, RT Ultra
High
Flow Cat, but I have the heavier steel ATR downpipe. It gives a
substantial
performance benefit over stock. I must admit that I
hesitated going to see
the car before I bought it, simply because of what I
had read on the list
about the Borla being loud. When finally I heard
it in person, it didn't
bother me at all. Just a throaty "muscle-car"
rumble sound that's pretty
mellow at moderate revs. But you will find
that there's an annoying resonance
throughout the car if you drive in too low
a gear, at around 2k rpm. For me
that's rarely a problem, since I try
to drive within the power band, 3500-4500
most of the time. I now like
the sound, and it "reflects" the fact that my
car (with its mods) is a
serious animal... ;-) Roger is the expert as to the
tech of the
various exhaust offerings, (and I don't know if any of his
sound-control
recommendations are built into mine, since I didn't install it),
but I'm more
than satisfied with this system. If I were working from stock,
I'd
install the same thing. If you want to hear my system, here I am on
a
warm-up lap going down the straight at Reno-Fernley, at stock boost and
about
6500 RPM... First is a 9-second video clip, second is the sound
(only) from
that clip:
www.Team3S.com/VID/p8080009.avi
(1.4 MB)
www.Team3S.com/VID/p8080009.wav
(78 KB)
- ---Forrest
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Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2003 12:11:54 -0500
From: "Williams, Tommy F" <
WilliamsTF@bernstein.com>
Subject:
Team3S: '96 and above AWD Cars
I'm interested in hearing what modifications have been performed on
these
OBD2 cars and your various experiences due to this improved sensitivity
to
emissions.
Regards,
Tommy '96 VR4
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Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2003 09:30:37 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Information on buying a 92 Stealth Rt
That's pretty high... Why don't you look on our website for the
price
guide??? Check the FAQ Index Page - it's the very FIRST item in
the "Basics
Section"! Like it says on the page, all the prices have not
yet been adjusted
(read the blurb at the beginning!!!). We took he
Edmunds prices and the Kelly
Blue Book prices and chose numbers in
between. Our chart shows the wholesale
price (paid by insurance
companies), and the retail price (charged by dealers).
We took the Edmunds
prices and the Kelly Blue Book prices and chose numbers in
between. A
privately-owned vehicle should be priced pretty much in between
wholesale and
retail...
- ---Forrest
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Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2003 16:28:37 -0500
From: "Gene Calarco" <
gac@clifton.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Intermintant Missfire of Cylinder 1/4
Well back to square 1. I had my electric specialist check out
every
sensor/log data and left the car for 3 days. He found nothing out
of spec.
I have exhausted my resources as this is the 3 shop (high end
performance
oriented) I can find, none were able to pinpoint the problem with
misfire on
1-4 cyl.
To make matters worse, the problem seems to be getting worse.
Saturday, I
was going up a hill and the car almost quit entirely, no power at
all like
it was running on 2 cyls?? I could smell the fuel coming out of the
exhaust
pipe it was missing so bad. I let is sit overnight, next
morning it was
back to running quasi normal (as I call it condition with the
poor
performance and missing between 1000-3000 rpms and worse going up
hill.
Could this be the EGR or Coil just being week but reporting as good?
Could
to wide of a plug gap cause this, I gapped at .043 NGK PFR6J
Laser plugs
stock. ?
Any more suggestions?
Eugene
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Date: Fri, 07 Nov 2003 21:45:42 +0000
From:
mjannusch@comcast.netSubject: Re:
Team3S: Intermintant Missfire of Cylinder 1/4
Sorry, I haven't really been following this thread. Have you replaced
the plug wires? Coil pack? Both items can check "good" according to
the specs and still give misfires. Any sort of "fishy" smell emanating
from the ECU, indicating bad capacitors?
Is it worse on more humid days? If so, then that makes the coil/wire
scenario more likely.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
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Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2003 14:25:50 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bforrest@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: exhaust system
Hey, Joseph,
If you hear the noise with the Borla, it's a dead giveaway that the engine
is
lugging, and should be in a lower gear, at higher revs. Otherwise
the sound
is like honey. If I hear that resonance, it's almost like a
warning signal
that I'm not doing the engine any good by running in that
gear. ;-) The ATR
system is more money than the Borla, but either
price sounds pretty good; I'm
sure you'll be happy either way. Perhaps
you should consider the ATR DP, the
3SXP Hi-Flow Cat, and a custom cat-back
exhaust(?). Why not check a few shops
in your area for pricing?
I'll bet you can get a quality cat-back exhaust
custom-made using the above
DP and Cat for ~$1000 for everything... BTW, my
system *isn't* the same
as the 3SXP offerings - I just realized that
everything I've got is 3", not
2.5" like their systems... I need it to help
get rid of exhaust from
the bigger turbos. For larger than TD04, 3" is
recommended; I use the
TD04 housing, but even so, my turbos have much higher
output. The
previous owner made the right choice by putting in a 3" DP, 3"
UHF cat, and
3" Borla cat-back system.
Best,
Forrest
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#294
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