Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, November 5 2003
Volume 02 : Number
292
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 4 Nov 2003 08:59:23 -0800
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Major engine problem and question
Based on the car sounding like
a truck, your timing belt skipped. Far as
steam, you need to be more precise
as to where exactly its coming from, but
at this point that does not matter
much. I would say, don't run the car
anymore and find someone that can do
work on it (or learn yourself).
Tyson.
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Greg Berkin
Sent: Tuesday,
November 04, 2003 8:36 AM
To:
Team3s@team3s.comSubject: Team3S: Major
engine problem and question
Hi Team3S-
My 92 Stealth R/T
non-turbo had a major engine failure this morning in
Santa Clara, CA.
Seems it overheated and will barely start which I
suspect is the water pump.
I've got 150k on car and I changed the timing
belt at around 120k or
so. The engine was making a great deal of noise
(sounded like a truck
next to me) at stop lights and finally quit when I
got to a gas
station. I can start it, but it shuts off immediately and
the engine is
steaming. The gauges were not showing any escalation in
temp, so I am
baffled by the cause...
I'm in search of a local mechanic who I can tow
it to for proper
diagnosis and repair. Anyone know a good mechanic near
Santa Clara, CA
and suspect the root cause?
Many thanks for the help
and advice,
Greg
Greg Berkin
Think Digital, Inc.
greg@thinkdigital.tv92 Stealth R/T
Owner
(408)330-0080
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 09:01:41
-0800
From: "Greg Berkin" <
greg@thinkdigital.tv>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Major engine problem and question
Hi Tyson,
Thanks for the
help. The steam was coming from the belt cover area
(nowhere else), so
that makes a great deal of sense.
Greg
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Tyson Varosyan [mailto:tigran@tigran.com]
Sent:
Tuesday, November 04, 2003 8:59 AM
To: Team3S; Greg Berkin
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Major engine problem and question
Based on the car sounding like
a truck, your timing belt skipped. Far as
steam, you need to be more precise
as to where exactly its coming from,
but
at this point that does not
matter much. I would say, don't run the car
anymore and find someone that can
do work on it (or learn yourself).
Tyson.
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Greg Berkin
Sent: Tuesday,
November 04, 2003 8:36 AM
To:
Team3s@team3s.comSubject: Team3S: Major
engine problem and question
Hi Team3S-
My 92 Stealth R/T
non-turbo had a major engine failure this morning in
Santa Clara, CA.
Seems it overheated and will barely start which I
suspect is the water pump.
I've got 150k on car and I changed the timing
belt at around 120k or
so. The engine was making a great deal of noise
(sounded like a truck
next to me) at stop lights and finally quit when I
got to a gas
station. I can start it, but it shuts off immediately and
the engine is
steaming. The gauges were not showing any escalation in
temp, so I am
baffled by the cause...
I'm in search of a local mechanic who I can tow
it to for proper
diagnosis and repair. Anyone know a good mechanic near
Santa Clara, CA
and suspect the root cause?
Many thanks for the help
and advice,
Greg
Greg Berkin
Think Digital, Inc.
greg@thinkdigital.tv92 Stealth R/T
Owner
(408)330-0080
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 11:07:19
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Major engine problem and question
the water pump is in the
area of the timing belt cover.
sometimes when the water pump leaks it
encourages the timing belt to skip.
the labor in replacing the water pump
is roughly equivalent to replacing the timing belt.
they can check the
timing belt when they replace the water pump and set it back in the correct
position, assuming it didn't skip too far allowing the "interference engine" to
damage valves and/or pistons. They might want to replace the belt
tensioner for good measure. a water leak could cause it to become corroded
and not do its job.
Chuck Willis
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Greg Berkin [mailto:greg@thinkdigital.tv]
Sent:
Tuesday, November 04, 2003 11:02 AM
To: Tyson Varosyan; Team3S
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Major engine problem and question
Hi Tyson,
Thanks
for the help. The steam was coming from the belt cover area
(nowhere
else), so that makes a great deal of sense.
Greg
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Tyson Varosyan [mailto:tigran@tigran.com]
Sent:
Tuesday, November 04, 2003 8:59 AM
To: Team3S; Greg Berkin
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Major engine problem and question
Based on the car sounding like
a truck, your timing belt skipped. Far as
steam, you need to be more precise
as to where exactly its coming from,
but
at this point that does not
matter much. I would say, don't run the car
anymore and find someone that can
do work on it (or learn yourself).
Tyson.
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Greg Berkin
Sent: Tuesday,
November 04, 2003 8:36 AM
To:
Team3s@team3s.comSubject: Team3S: Major
engine problem and question
Hi Team3S-
My 92 Stealth R/T
non-turbo had a major engine failure this morning in
Santa Clara, CA.
Seems it overheated and will barely start which I
suspect is the water pump.
I've got 150k on car and I changed the timing
belt at around 120k or
so. The engine was making a great deal of noise
(sounded like a truck
next to me) at stop lights and finally quit when I
got to a gas
station. I can start it, but it shuts off immediately and
the engine is
steaming. The gauges were not showing any escalation in
temp, so I am
baffled by the cause...
I'm in search of a local mechanic who I can tow
it to for proper
diagnosis and repair. Anyone know a good mechanic near
Santa Clara, CA
and suspect the root cause?
Many thanks for the help
and advice,
Greg
Greg Berkin
Think Digital, Inc.
greg@thinkdigital.tv92 Stealth R/T
Owner
(408)330-0080
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 09:45:45
-0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Major engine problem and question
From: "Greg Berkin" <
greg@thinkdigital.tv>
> My 92
Stealth R/T non-turbo had a major engine failure this morning in Santa
Clara,
CA. Seems it overheated and will barely start which I suspect is
the
water pump. I've got 150k on car and I changed the timing belt at around
120k
or so. The engine was making a great deal of noise (sounded like a
truck next
to me) at stop lights and finally quit when I got to a gas
station. I can
start it, but it shuts off immediately and the engine is
steaming. The gauges
were not showing any escalation in temp, so I am
baffled by the cause...
> I'm in search of a local mechanic who I can tow
it to for proper diagnosis
and repair. Anyone know a good mechanic near
Santa Clara, CA and suspect the
root cause?
> Many thanks for the help
and advice,
> Greg
- ---------------------->
Hey,
Greg,
If it is the water pump, (that's my guess, too), it's a good bet
that coolant
has leaked on to your timing belt, degraded it, and it has
slipped or broken.
Hopefully, you may have saved your engine by not driving
the car very far.
Obviously, not driving it at all would have been even
better. Since our
engines are "interference design", a slipped timing
belt can bend valves and
damage pistons, so it shouldn't be driven (or even
started) until a repair can
be made. It's probably a good sign that the
temp gauges are not showing a
change - that indicates that it's not a massive
failure. Usually by the time
the stock gauges show that you're in a
dangerous condition, your engine is
already toast. So keep your fingers
crossed.
The "prevailing wisdom" from other owners on the list is to
change the water
pump at the same time as the timing belt, which we also
recommend on our "60k
maintenance" page on the Team3S website.
It's as much labor to change the
water pump as to do the 60k, since the same
systems must be removed for
access... The water pump is usually only
good for about 100k miles, which is
why if you can afford it, it should be
replaced *every* 60k - just as cheap
insurance against failure. If
you're lucky and nothing is damaged, you'll
have to do the entire 60k again
(timing belt, tensioner, etc, *plus* water
pump). If the timing belt
looks OK when they do the water pump, you might get
away with not needing a
replacement, but if the tensioner even got wet, it's
best to replace it
anyway.
Unfortunately, I'm 40 minutes north of you, so the only competent
shops I know
of are in SF, Pinole, San Rafael... The closest shops to
you that I know of
are in San Jose, but I'm not familiar with any of
them. Perhaps Geoff Mohler,
who's from that area, knows a specific
location of one he trusts.
Good luck!
-
---Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 10:40:04
-0800
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Major engine problem and question
No Problem,
I think it
would be best now for you to know now, that sound "like a diesel
truck" are
the valves hitting the tops of your pistons. I had the same
happen. Having as
your engine starts now, that means that compression is
still present. When
timing is reset, the noise should go away and the car
should run, although
rough and with major loss of power. I think you are in
for some head work...
Only question now, will you be doing 6, 12 or 24
valves... The answer will be
clear based on where your timing marks are when
the covers are taken
off.
Tyson
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Greg Berkin
Sent: Tuesday,
November 04, 2003 9:02 AM
To: Tyson Varosyan; Team3S
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Major engine problem and question
Hi Tyson,
Thanks for the
help. The steam was coming from the belt cover area
(nowhere else), so
that makes a great deal of sense.
Greg
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Tyson Varosyan [mailto:tigran@tigran.com]
Sent:
Tuesday, November 04, 2003 8:59 AM
To: Team3S; Greg Berkin
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Major engine problem and question
Based on the car sounding like
a truck, your timing belt skipped. Far as
steam, you need to be more precise
as to where exactly its coming from,
but
at this point that does not
matter much. I would say, don't run the car
anymore and find someone that can
do work on it (or learn yourself).
Tyson.
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Greg Berkin
Sent: Tuesday,
November 04, 2003 8:36 AM
To:
Team3s@team3s.comSubject: Team3S: Major
engine problem and question
Hi Team3S-
My 92 Stealth R/T
non-turbo had a major engine failure this morning in
Santa Clara, CA.
Seems it overheated and will barely start which I
suspect is the water pump.
I've got 150k on car and I changed the timing
belt at around 120k or
so. The engine was making a great deal of noise
(sounded like a truck
next to me) at stop lights and finally quit when I
got to a gas
station. I can start it, but it shuts off immediately and
the engine is
steaming. The gauges were not showing any escalation in
temp, so I am
baffled by the cause...
I'm in search of a local mechanic who I can tow
it to for proper
diagnosis and repair. Anyone know a good mechanic near
Santa Clara, CA
and suspect the root cause?
Many thanks for the help
and advice,
Greg
Greg Berkin
Think Digital, Inc.
greg@thinkdigital.tv92 Stealth R/T
Owner
(408)330-0080
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 14:14:46
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
Team3S: Andie Lin makes brakes again?
Once upon a time, Andie Lin left
Carbotech to form his own company making brake pads. Does anyone recall
the name of his company? Does he make brakes for our wonderful
cars?
Chuck Willis
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 14:13:40
-0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Andie Lin makes brakes again?
Cobalt.
On Tue, 4 Nov
2003, Willis, Charles E. wrote:
> Once upon a time, Andie Lin left
Carbotech to form his own company making brake pads. Does anyone recall
the name of his company? Does he make brakes for our wonderful
cars?
>
> Chuck Willis
>
>
> ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
- ---
www.SpeedToys.com: Geoff Mohler
orders@speedtoys.comTeam3S/3Si.org
Vendor approved brake discounter; also,
parts for Toyota, Audi, BMW,
Mercedes, Porsche, SAAB, Volvo.
Where do you buy YOUR brakes? I can
help...asking is free! :)
"If its in stock, we have
it!"
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 04 Nov 2003 14:47:48
-0600
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Andie Lin makes brakes again?
At 02:14 PM 11/4/2003 -0600,
Willis, Charles E. wrote:
>Once upon a time, Andie Lin left Carbotech to
form his own company making
brake pads. Does anyone recall the name of
his company? Does he make
brakes for our wonderful
cars?
>
Last I heard, he did not make them for 3000GTs, but he made
them for
Porsche Big Reds.
Try these:
andiewlin@yahoo.comandie@cobaltfriction.comAndie
W. Lin
andie@cobaltfriction.comCobalt
Friction Technologies
http://www.cobaltfriction.com1013
N. Federal Highway, Fort Lauderdale, FL 33304
Office: 954.828.1512
:: Fax: 954.828.1517
Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 13:27:12
-0800
From: "Greg Berkin" <
greg@thinkdigital.tv>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Major engine problem and question
Bob,
Many thanks for the
guidance! I'd even like to pursue a SF shop as I
can tow the car
anywhere... even San Rafael if I find a reputable shop?
Any
recommendations are appreciated.
Thanks,
Greg
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Forrest [mailto:bf@bobforrest.com]
Sent: Tuesday, November 04, 2003 9:46 AM
To:
Team3s@team3s.comCc: Greg Berkin; Geoff
Mohler
Subject: Re: Team3S: Major engine problem and question
From:
"Greg Berkin" <
greg@thinkdigital.tv>
> My 92
Stealth R/T non-turbo had a major engine failure this morning
in
Santa
Clara, CA. Seems it overheated and will barely start which
I suspect is
the
water pump. I've got 150k on car and I changed the timing
belt at around
120k
or so. The engine was making a great deal of
noise (sounded like a
truck next
to me) at stop lights and finally quit
when I got to a gas station. I
can
start it, but it shuts off
immediately and the engine is steaming. The
gauges
were not showing
any escalation in temp, so I am baffled by the cause...
> I'm in search of
a local mechanic who I can tow it to for proper
diagnosis
and
repair. Anyone know a good mechanic near Santa Clara, CA and
suspect
the
root cause?
> Many thanks for the help and advice,
>
Greg
- ---------------------->
Hey, Greg,
If it is the water
pump, (that's my guess, too), it's a good bet that
coolant
has leaked on
to your timing belt, degraded it, and it has slipped or
broken.
Hopefully,
you may have saved your engine by not driving the car very
far.
Obviously,
not driving it at all would have been even better. Since our
engines
are "interference design", a slipped timing belt can bend
valves
and
damage pistons, so it shouldn't be driven (or even started)
until a
repair can
be made. It's probably a good sign that the temp
gauges are not showing
a
change - that indicates that it's not a massive
failure. Usually by the
time
the stock gauges show that you're in a
dangerous condition, your engine
is
already toast. So keep your
fingers crossed.
The "prevailing wisdom" from other owners on the list is
to change the
water
pump at the same time as the timing belt, which we
also recommend on our
"60k
maintenance" page on the Team3S
website. It's as much labor to change
the
water pump as to do the
60k, since the same systems must be removed for
access... The water
pump is usually only good for about 100k miles,
which is
why if you can
afford it, it should be replaced *every* 60k - just as
cheap
insurance
against failure. If you're lucky and nothing is damaged,
you'll
have
to do the entire 60k again (timing belt, tensioner, etc,
*plus*
water
pump). If the timing belt looks OK when they do the
water pump, you
might get
away with not needing a replacement, but if the
tensioner even got wet,
it's
best to replace it
anyway.
Unfortunately, I'm 40 minutes north of you, so the only competent
shops
I know
of are in SF, Pinole, San Rafael... The closest shops
to you that I
know of
are in San Jose, but I'm not familiar with any of
them. Perhaps Geoff
Mohler,
who's from that area, knows a specific
location of one he trusts.
Good luck!
-
---Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 04 Nov 2003 14:02:27
-0800
From: Mike Gerhard <
gerhard1@llnl.gov>
Subject: Team3S:
Saner Front Sway Bar Install Question
Greetings,
I'm considering
installing the Saner Front Sway Bar in my '91 VR4. I
already have installed
the rear bar and recall reading that it is quite a
bit of work to install
the front bar (which is one reason I opted for the
rear bar only at this
point).
I have several questions.
(1) At Stealth316 the link is
broken to Eric Gross' instructions for the
front sway bar. I'm wondering if
anyone has the instructions.
(2) I'm curious as to what ya'll (that's
Texan talk for you Chuck) think
about having both sway bars. My typical
driving is open tracking at our
beautiful road courses in Northern
California (Thunderhill and Sears Point
so far). The rear sway bar had a
dramatic effect on the sway.
(3) The main reason I'm considering the
front sway bar at this point is
that I'll be pulling my engine (I have one
of the spun rod bearings you've
seen on the list recently) and I'm thinking
that it may be a easy task to
install the front sway bar with the engine
out. I'm hoping someone can give
me feedback on how easy they think it might
be to install with the engine out.
-
--------------------------------------------------------------
Mike
Gerhard 1991
Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Pearl White
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 14:08:46
-0800 (PST)
From:
vr4glenn@newsguy.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Saner Front Sway Bar Install Question
works for me:
http://www.3sxperformance.com/installs/swaybar-tt-front/index.htmlAt
Tue, 04 Nov 2003 14:02:27 -0800, you wrote
>Greetings,
>
>(1)
At Stealth316 the link is broken to Eric Gross' instructions for the
>front sway bar. I'm wondering if anyone has the
instructions.
>
<<snip>>
>Mike
Gerhard 1991
Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Pearl White
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 14:54:22
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Saner Front Sway Bar Install Question
The front bar is the easy one on an
AWD car --- the rear is supposed to be
a PITA. I thought you have to
drop the sub-frame for the rear end to install it.
I'm sure an engine out
install sould be a lot easier on the
front.
Jim
Berry
============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Mike Gerhard" <
gerhard1@llnl.gov>
>
Greetings,
>
> I'm considering installing the Saner Front Sway Bar
in my '91 VR4. I
> already have installed the rear bar and recall reading
that it is quite a
> bit of work to install the front bar (which is one
reason I opted for the
> rear bar only at this point).
>
> I
have several questions.
>
> (1) At Stealth316 the link is broken to
Eric Gross' instructions for the
> front sway bar. I'm wondering if
anyone has the instructions.
>
> (2) I'm curious as to what ya'll
(that's Texan talk for you Chuck) think
> about having both sway bars. My
typical driving is open tracking at our
> beautiful road courses in
Northern California (Thunderhill and Sears Point
> so far). The rear sway
bar had a dramatic effect on the sway.
>
> (3) The main reason I'm
considering the front sway bar at this point is
> that I'll be pulling my
engine (I have one of the spun rod bearings you've
> seen on the list
recently) and I'm thinking that it may be a easy task to
> install the
front sway bar with the engine out. I'm hoping someone can give
> me
feedback on how easy they think it might be to install with the engine
out.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 17:20:52
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Saner Front Sway Bar Install Question
I have both bars on my
'94 VR4. They are very nice for the track. The car drives like
a cart, however, on the street and Houston streets are lousy. You
will be glad you did it for the track.
Chuck Willis
BTW it's y'all
not ya'll.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Mike Gerhard
[mailto:gerhard1@llnl.gov]
Sent: Tuesday, November 04, 2003 4:02 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Saner Front Sway Bar Install Question
Greetings,
I'm
considering installing the Saner Front Sway Bar in my '91 VR4. I
already
have installed the rear bar and recall reading that it is quite a
bit of
work to install the front bar (which is one reason I opted for the
rear bar
only at this point).
I have several questions.
(1) At Stealth316
the link is broken to Eric Gross' instructions for the
front sway bar. I'm
wondering if anyone has the instructions.
(2) I'm curious as to what
ya'll (that's Texan talk for you Chuck) think
about having both sway bars.
My typical driving is open tracking at our
beautiful road courses in
Northern California (Thunderhill and Sears Point
so far). The rear sway bar
had a dramatic effect on the sway.
(3) The main reason I'm considering
the front sway bar at this point is
that I'll be pulling my engine (I have
one of the spun rod bearings you've
seen on the list recently) and I'm
thinking that it may be a easy task to
install the front sway bar with the
engine out. I'm hoping someone can give
me feedback on how easy they think
it might be to install with the engine out.
-
--------------------------------------------------------------
Mike
Gerhard 1991
Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Pearl White
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 17:15:01
-0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Saner Front Sway Bar Install Question
Pardon..the sway bars
make street driving bad?
On Tue, 4 Nov 2003, Willis, Charles E.
wrote:
> I have both bars on my '94 VR4. They are very nice for
the track. The car drives like a cart, however, on the street and
Houston streets are lousy. You will be glad you did it for the
track.
>
> Chuck Willis
>
> BTW it's y'all not
ya'll.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mike Gerhard
[mailto:gerhard1@llnl.gov]
> Sent: Tuesday, November 04, 2003 4:02
PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Saner Front Sway Bar Install Question
>
>
>
Greetings,
>
> I'm considering installing the Saner Front Sway Bar
in my '91 VR4. I
> already have installed the rear bar and recall reading
that it is quite a
> bit of work to install the front bar (which is one
reason I opted for the
> rear bar only at this point).
>
> I
have several questions.
>
> (1) At Stealth316 the link is broken to
Eric Gross' instructions for the
> front sway bar. I'm wondering if
anyone has the instructions.
>
> (2) I'm curious as to what ya'll
(that's Texan talk for you Chuck) think
> about having both sway bars. My
typical driving is open tracking at our
> beautiful road courses in
Northern California (Thunderhill and Sears Point
> so far). The rear sway
bar had a dramatic effect on the sway.
>
> (3) The main reason I'm
considering the front sway bar at this point is
> that I'll be pulling my
engine (I have one of the spun rod bearings you've
> seen on the list
recently) and I'm thinking that it may be a easy task to
> install the
front sway bar with the engine out. I'm hoping someone can give
> me
feedback on how easy they think it might be to install with the engine
out.
>
>
--------------------------------------------------------------
> Mike
Gerhard 1991
Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Pearl White
>
>
> ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
- ---
www.SpeedToys.com: Geoff Mohler
orders@speedtoys.comTeam3S/3Si.org
Vendor approved brake discounter; also,
parts for Toyota, Audi, BMW,
Mercedes, Porsche, SAAB, Volvo.
Where do you buy YOUR brakes? I can
help...asking is free! :)
"If its in stock, we have
it!"
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 17:26:56
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Saner Front Sway Bar Install Question
The ride on the street
is no longer comfortable. The suspension is incredibly stiff.
It
drives fine, just rides rotten.
Chuck Willis
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Geoff Mohler [mailto:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
Sent:
Tuesday, November 04, 2003 5:15 PM
To: Willis, Charles E.
Cc: Mike
Gerhard;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Saner Front Sway Bar Install Question
Pardon..the sway
bars make street driving bad?
On Tue, 4 Nov 2003, Willis, Charles E.
wrote:
> I have both bars on my '94 VR4. They are very nice for
the track. The car drives like a cart, however, on the street and
Houston streets are lousy. You will be glad you did it for the
track.
>
> Chuck Willis
>
> BTW it's y'all not
ya'll.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mike Gerhard
[mailto:gerhard1@llnl.gov]
> Sent: Tuesday, November 04, 2003 4:02
PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Saner Front Sway Bar Install Question
>
>
>
Greetings,
>
> I'm considering installing the Saner Front Sway Bar
in my '91 VR4. I
> already have installed the rear bar and recall reading
that it is quite a
> bit of work to install the front bar (which is one
reason I opted for the
> rear bar only at this point).
>
> I
have several questions.
>
> (1) At Stealth316 the link is broken to
Eric Gross' instructions for the
> front sway bar. I'm wondering if
anyone has the instructions.
>
> (2) I'm curious as to what ya'll
(that's Texan talk for you Chuck) think
> about having both sway bars. My
typical driving is open tracking at our
> beautiful road courses in
Northern California (Thunderhill and Sears Point
> so far). The rear sway
bar had a dramatic effect on the sway.
>
> (3) The main reason I'm
considering the front sway bar at this point is
> that I'll be pulling my
engine (I have one of the spun rod bearings you've
> seen on the list
recently) and I'm thinking that it may be a easy task to
> install the
front sway bar with the engine out. I'm hoping someone can give
> me
feedback on how easy they think it might be to install with the engine
out.
>
>
--------------------------------------------------------------
> Mike
Gerhard 1991
Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Pearl White
>
>
> ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
- ---
www.SpeedToys.com: Geoff Mohler
orders@speedtoys.comTeam3S/3Si.org
Vendor approved brake discounter; also,
parts for Toyota, Audi, BMW,
Mercedes, Porsche, SAAB, Volvo.
Where do you buy YOUR brakes? I can
help...asking is free! :)
"If its in stock, we have
it!"
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 17:20:16
-0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Saner Front Sway Bar Install Question
Ohh..youre talking
about the whole thing..I was wondering how swaybars
wold change street
ride.
On Tue, 4 Nov 2003, Willis, Charles E. wrote:
> The ride
on the street is no longer comfortable. The suspension is incredibly
stiff.
>
> It drives fine, just rides rotten.
>
>
Chuck Willis
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Geoff
Mohler [mailto:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, November 04,
2003 5:15 PM
> To: Willis, Charles E.
> Cc: Mike Gerhard;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Saner Front Sway Bar Install Question
>
>
> Pardon..the sway bars make street driving bad?
>
> On Tue,
4 Nov 2003, Willis, Charles E. wrote:
>
> > I have both bars on
my '94 VR4. They are very nice for the track. The car drives like
a cart, however, on the street and Houston streets are lousy. You
will be glad you did it for the track.
> >
> > Chuck
Willis
> >
> > BTW it's y'all not ya'll.
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Mike Gerhard
[mailto:gerhard1@llnl.gov]
> > Sent: Tuesday, November 04, 2003 4:02
PM
> > To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st> >
Subject: Team3S: Saner Front Sway Bar Install Question
> >
>
>
> > Greetings,
> >
> > I'm considering
installing the Saner Front Sway Bar in my '91 VR4. I
> > already have
installed the rear bar and recall reading that it is quite a
> > bit
of work to install the front bar (which is one reason I opted for the
>
> rear bar only at this point).
> >
> > I have several
questions.
> >
> > (1) At Stealth316 the link is broken to
Eric Gross' instructions for the
> > front sway bar. I'm wondering if
anyone has the instructions.
> >
> > (2) I'm curious as to
what ya'll (that's Texan talk for you Chuck) think
> > about having
both sway bars. My typical driving is open tracking at our
> >
beautiful road courses in Northern California (Thunderhill and Sears Point
> > so far). The rear sway bar had a dramatic effect on the
sway.
> >
> > (3) The main reason I'm considering the front
sway bar at this point is
> > that I'll be pulling my engine (I have
one of the spun rod bearings you've
> > seen on the list recently) and
I'm thinking that it may be a easy task to
> > install the front sway
bar with the engine out. I'm hoping someone can give
> > me feedback
on how easy they think it might be to install with the engine out.
> >
> >
--------------------------------------------------------------
> > Mike
Gerhard 1991
Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Pearl White
> >
> >
> >
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> >
> >
> > *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> >
>
> ---
>
www.SpeedToys.com: Geoff Mohler
orders@speedtoys.com>
Team3S/3Si.org Vendor approved brake discounter; also,
> parts for Toyota,
Audi, BMW, Mercedes, Porsche, SAAB, Volvo.
> Where do you buy YOUR
brakes? I can help...asking is free! :)
> "If its in stock, we
have it!"
>
>
- ---
www.SpeedToys.com: Geoff Mohler
orders@speedtoys.comTeam3S/3Si.org
Vendor approved brake discounter; also,
parts for Toyota, Audi, BMW,
Mercedes, Porsche, SAAB, Volvo.
Where do you buy YOUR brakes? I can
help...asking is free! :)
"If its in stock, we have
it!"
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 17:33:22
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Saner Front Sway Bar Install Question
If you or your
passenger has loose dental work, it will come out! But on the track it is
sweet, sweet, sweet!
Chuck Willis
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Geoff Mohler [mailto:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
Sent:
Tuesday, November 04, 2003 5:20 PM
To: Willis, Charles E.
Cc: Mike
Gerhard;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Saner Front Sway Bar Install Question
Ohh..youre talking
about the whole thing..I was wondering how swaybars
wold change street
ride.
On Tue, 4 Nov 2003, Willis, Charles E. wrote:
> The ride
on the street is no longer comfortable. The suspension is incredibly
stiff.
>
> It drives fine, just rides rotten.
>
>
Chuck Willis
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Geoff
Mohler [mailto:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, November 04,
2003 5:15 PM
> To: Willis, Charles E.
> Cc: Mike Gerhard;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Saner Front Sway Bar Install Question
>
>
> Pardon..the sway bars make street driving bad?
>
> On Tue,
4 Nov 2003, Willis, Charles E. wrote:
>
> > I have both bars on
my '94 VR4. They are very nice for the track. The car drives like
a cart, however, on the street and Houston streets are lousy. You
will be glad you did it for the track.
> >
> > Chuck
Willis
> >
> > BTW it's y'all not ya'll.
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Mike Gerhard
[mailto:gerhard1@llnl.gov]
> > Sent: Tuesday, November 04, 2003 4:02
PM
> > To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st> >
Subject: Team3S: Saner Front Sway Bar Install Question
> >
>
>
> > Greetings,
> >
> > I'm considering
installing the Saner Front Sway Bar in my '91 VR4. I
> > already have
installed the rear bar and recall reading that it is quite a
> > bit
of work to install the front bar (which is one reason I opted for the
>
> rear bar only at this point).
> >
> > I have several
questions.
> >
> > (1) At Stealth316 the link is broken to
Eric Gross' instructions for the
> > front sway bar. I'm wondering if
anyone has the instructions.
> >
> > (2) I'm curious as to
what ya'll (that's Texan talk for you Chuck) think
> > about having
both sway bars. My typical driving is open tracking at our
> >
beautiful road courses in Northern California (Thunderhill and Sears Point
> > so far). The rear sway bar had a dramatic effect on the
sway.
> >
> > (3) The main reason I'm considering the front
sway bar at this point is
> > that I'll be pulling my engine (I have
one of the spun rod bearings you've
> > seen on the list recently) and
I'm thinking that it may be a easy task to
> > install the front sway
bar with the engine out. I'm hoping someone can give
> > me feedback
on how easy they think it might be to install with the engine out.
> >
> >
--------------------------------------------------------------
> > Mike
Gerhard 1991
Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Pearl White
> >
> >
> >
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> >
> >
> > *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> >
>
> ---
>
www.SpeedToys.com: Geoff Mohler
orders@speedtoys.com>
Team3S/3Si.org Vendor approved brake discounter; also,
> parts for Toyota,
Audi, BMW, Mercedes, Porsche, SAAB, Volvo.
> Where do you buy YOUR
brakes? I can help...asking is free! :)
> "If its in stock, we
have it!"
>
>
- ---
www.SpeedToys.com: Geoff Mohler
orders@speedtoys.comTeam3S/3Si.org
Vendor approved brake discounter; also,
parts for Toyota, Audi, BMW,
Mercedes, Porsche, SAAB, Volvo.
Where do you buy YOUR brakes? I can
help...asking is free! :)
"If its in stock, we have
it!"
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 15:55:32
-0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bforrest@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Major engine problem and question
From: "Greg Berkin" <
greg@thinkdigital.tv>
>
Bob,
> Many thanks for the guidance! I'd even like to pursue a SF
shop as I can
tow the car anywhere... even San Rafael if I find a
reputable shop? Any
recommendations are appreciated.
> Thanks,
>
Greg
- -------------------------->
When my Stealth engine blew, I
brought it to Wynn's Motors in SF (55 Oak St,
just off Van Ness &
Market), since they are meticulous about everything they
do, and it's so
clean, you can eat off the floor. Their contact info is on
the "Good
Guys" Dealers and Vendors page - they give Team3S members a
discount.
(Check the Team3S FAQ Index Page under Basics). Tell the owner,
Willy
that I sent you.
I got a Chrysler rebuilt long block for $2200 (+ $175
core charge, since my
old engine was trash), got a 3-yr parts AND labor
warranty on it for another
$250, oil pan, new 60k parts and water pump,
complete installation and testing
($1700) plus tax brought the total tab to
well under $5k. I really
appreciated that he talked me into that *full*
labor warranty, since the rings
didn't seat well on break-in, and now they
have to re-do the job or replace
the engine. NO cost to me! The
Stealth is in there right now... He's done
so much work on my cars for
me, I once left a set of manuals there for about 8
months! ;-) He
also does my pre-track tech for both 3S cars, and the race
car,
too...
Good luck!
Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 21:28:24
-0600
From: "steve ludi" <
sl10110@alltel.net>
Subject: Team3S:
120k tune-up
Hi all, I really enjoy reading all the Team 3S
e-mails, various
opinions,questions and answers given out, all the technical
/nontechnical
knowledge about our cars. You guys are the best. Just changed
plugs and
wires on my '93 R/T n/a for the first time, car had 89K
@purchase now has
103K. Runs great but 120K is fast approaching and as
this is my daily
driver will soon need the infamous fix. I live in the
Omaha metro area and
just in case I am not able(have time) to do this myself,
I was hoping
someone knew of a good tuner in my area, within say 200 miles(
Have Stealth
Will Travel). Thanks in advance Steve Ludi. My e-mail is
sl10110@alltel.net***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 04 Nov 2003 21:44:51
-0600
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 120k tune-up
At 09:28 PM 11/4/2003 -0600, steve ludi
wrote:
>Runs great but 120K is fast approaching and as this is my
daily
driver will soon need the infamous fix. <snip> I live in
the Omaha metro
area and
>just in case I am not able(have time) to do
this myself, I was hoping
>someone knew of a good tuner in my area, within
say 200 miles( Have Stealth
>Will Travel). Thanks in advance Steve
Ludi. My e-mail is
sl10110@alltel.net>
>
Got
just the guy for you: Mike Willis, in Des Moines
michaelwillis@mchsi.comHe's my
new tuner, and I recommend him highly.
Tell him the Old Poop sent
you.
Rich/slow old poop
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2003 11:27:17
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Saner Front Sway Bar Install Question
> The ride on the street
is no longer comfortable. The
> suspension is incredibly
stiff.
>
> It drives fine, just rides rotten.
>
>
Chuck Willis
For the record, I also have upgraded both front and rear
sway bars and I find the ride on the street in "Tour" to be a little stiffer,
but still very acceptable. "Sport" mode on a crappy road is kinda rough,
but that's what the ECS button is for :-)
BTW, a lot of my web pages are
currently inaccessible (it's not the whole site or the DNS because some pages
work). Geoff said he's working on it (it affects team3s, speedtoys, and
probably other sites, too)...
- --Erik
'95 VR-4
www.team3s.com/~egross***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V2
#292
***************************************