Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Monday, October 27
2003 Volume 02 : Number
285
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 26 Oct 2003 19:39:07 -0500
From: "Ken Stanton" <
ken.c.stanton@usa.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RE- Oil squirters causing Spun bearings (was 1991 Turbo
engine needed)
It seems everyone dances around this statement directly,
but which motors
(years, models) are we suspecting exactly?
I have a
'91 that I'm trying to diagnose a low oil pressure issue with.
It
-occasionally- starts up warm with no pressure, but after a quick rev of
the
engine pulls up to normal. No other issues. Also, this problem
is
minimized/nearly eliminated by using Valv MaxLife oil.
Ken
Stanton
91 Pearl White Stealth TT
Under Pressure
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
To: "'John
Monnin'" <
john.monnin@comcast.net>; <
Team3S@team3s.com>
Sent: Sunday,
October 26, 2003 7:31 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE- Oil squirters causing Spun
bearings (was 1991 Turbo
engine needed)
> Yah, I actually just
finished reading Magnus's webpage... They compared
> a 93 block
which has the same crank and rods as the 95+ 2nd gen motor.
> This is
referred to as a 7 bolt DSM motor (7 bolts on the crank to
> flywheel
interface)... Older DSM motors, 89-92.5, are referred to as 6
>
bolts or "big rod" motors... The rods are huge in comparison, all
of
> the bearing journals are huge, rod bearings and crank bearings
are
> giant, and, on top of all of that, they use the same type of
oil
> squirters as you saw on that '93 block... It's really a damn
near
> bulletproof motor from the factory.... Now, however, from
reading what
> they had to say, I agree entirely with their
statements... Assuming
> this can be an issue with the 3/S turbo
motor oil squirters, then it is
> definitely worth looking into... I
really think it's a piss poor design
> really, "hmmm, lets pull oil from
the part that needs it the most..."
>
> And yes, I knew of the oil
passages in the rods for the piston bore
> walls, but, as you mentioned,
these are not for cooling of the piston
> itself...
>
>
-Cody
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On
> Behalf
> > Of John
Monnin
> > Sent: Sunday, October 26, 2003 1:05 PM
> > To:
'cody';
Team3S@team3s.com> >
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE- Oil squirters causing Spun bearings (was 1991
>
> Turbo engine needed)
> >
> > Cody:
> >
>
> I just double checked a TT rod (same part number as NA Rod), It
does
> > not have a check valve, BUT it definitely has a passage from
the main
> > rod bearing to an orifice that squirts on the
piston. The rod bearing
> > has a hole in it that lines up with
this passage.
> >
> > Below is a picture of a TT rod and
piston below a GN Rod. Look on the
> > bottom side (relative to
this picture) of the rod, the small bump is
> the
> > orifice
opening, it points more to the cylinder wall than to the
> piston.
>
>
> >
http://www.monninengineering.com/images/RodComparison.JPG>
>
> >
> > The lack of check valve destroys my theory that
they might be failing
> on
> > NAs but I am stubborn enough to
question if the squirters may bleed
> off
> > too much oil if the
oil pump is a little too worn. I am also stubborn
> > enough to
still question the main bearings because each main bearing
> oil
>
> supply is shared with at least 1 oil squirter. The 2 center
main
> > bearing journals supply 2 oil squirters. On my engine it
was a center
> > main bearing that looked the worst. See my
webpage, first picture at
> > top to see main bearings worn too
far.
> >
> >
http://johnmonnin.netfirms.com/4boltPictures.html>
>
> >
> > Just for reference this is a picture of the oil
squirters in the block
> >
> >
http://www.monninengineering.com/images/OilSquirter.JPG>
>
> > My personal experience was when I tore my TT engine apart
(timing belt
> > jumped) the Rods bearings looked perfect but most of
my main journal
> > bearings had too much wear and one main journal was
very close to a
> > failure
> > These bearings only had 86,000
miles on it, At least 50,000 of those
> > miles were with
synthetic oil changes every 2500 miles and with my
> wife
> >
driving it almost exclusively and she is a very calm driver
> > I
bought this car at a dealer with only 36,000 miles on it and the
> >
condition of the rest of the car suggested to me that that the
>
original
> > owner took very good care of it before I bought
it.
> >
> > To me it is completely unacceptable for a well
maintained modern car
> to
> > have this kind of bearing
wear. I originally assumed that there was
> > some kind of oil
contamination or OEM bearing clearance problem but I
> > have seen
enough people spins bearing that I am convinced that the
> >
oiling system on these engines do not have enough of a safety factor
>
> built in. 2 NA's developed rod knock during the NG04 Road
course
> > alone, this just irritates me.
> >
> >
P.S. From the pictures it looks like 1st and 2nd gen DSMs bearings
>
are
> > the same, but I am not sure so I emailed Magnus Motorsports to
find
> out.
> > I'll let you know what I find out.
>
>
> > John Monnin
> >
> > -----Original
Message-----
> > >From: cody [mailto:overclck@satx.rr.com]
>
> >Sent: Sunday, October 26, 2003 12:31 PM
> > >To: 'John
Monnin';
Team3S@team3s.com> >
>Subject: RE: Team3S: RE- Oil squirters causing Spun bearings (was
>
1991
> > >Turbo engine needed)
> >
> > >Oil
squirters are not in the rods, but in the block, hopefully that's
> >
>just a confusion... IMHO, the design of the crank journals and
the
> > >diameters and widths of the journals are what causes
crankwalk in the
> > 2g
> > >DSM cars... Although it
may be oil supply related, I don't think
> > that's
> >
>where to look...
> >
> > -Cody
> >
>
>
> >
> > *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2003 16:44:11
-0800
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: RE- Oil squirters causing Spun bearings (was 1991 Turbo
engine needed)
Yea, I remember reading the posts last year and one thing
that the poster
made very clear was that cross drilling the crank was not the
solution. If
memory serves right, it was some Porsche motor they were
comparing it to.
Turns out that the hole in the crank is incidentally (and
carelessly)
located in about the worst place possible for oil flow at high
RPMs. It was
almost like the designers never thought about the centrifugal
force has on
oil. The solution they posed was to do as the Porsche guys, plug
the
original hole and drill one at the perfect location for high
RPM.
I don't remember why, but I do remember them saying "don't cross
drill, that
will not resolve the problem".
That's just what I remember
reading.
Tyson
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of fastmax
Sent: Sunday, October
26, 2003 2:14 PM
To: John Monnin; 'cody';
Team3S@team3s.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
RE- Oil squirters causing Spun bearings (was 1991
Turbo engine
needed)
Another theory we kicked around a year or so ago was the need
for a cross
drilled
crank. The theory on failures from another platform [
BMW ??? ] is that at
high
rpm the centrifical force at the crank reduces
or stops the flow of oil to
the bearings.
They too are convinced that
their problem was solved. A buddy of mine is
having his
crank cross
drilled, but again, one data point isn't going to prove
a
theory.
Jim
Berry
=======================================
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "John Monnin" <
john.monnin@comcast.net>
)
>
I just double checked a TT rod (same part number as NA Rod), It
does
> not have a check valve, BUT it definitely has a passage from the
main
> rod bearing to an orifice that squirts on the piston. The rod
bearing
> has a hole in it that lines up with this
passage.
>
> Below is a picture of a TT rod and piston below a GN
Rod. Look on the
> bottom side (relative to this picture) of the
rod, the small bump is the
> orifice opening, it points more to the
cylinder wall than to the piston.
> My personal experience was when I tore
my TT engine apart (timing belt
> jumped) the Rods bearings looked perfect
but most of my main journal
> bearings had too much wear and one main
journal was very close to a
> failure
> These bearings only had
86,000 miles on it, At least 50,000 of those
> miles were with
synthetic oil changes every 2500 miles and with my wife
> driving it
almost exclusively and she is a very calm driver
> I bought this car at a
dealer with only 36,000 miles on it and the
> condition of the rest of the
car suggested to me that that the original
> owner took very good care of
it before I bought it.
>
> To me it is completely unacceptable for a
well maintained modern car to
> have this kind of bearing wear. I
originally assumed that there was
> some kind of oil contamination or OEM
bearing clearance problem but I
> have seen enough people spins
bearing that I am convinced that the
> oiling system on these engines do
not have enough of a safety factor
> built in. 2 NA's
developed rod knock during the NG04 Road course
> alone, this just
irritates me.
>
> P.S. From the pictures it looks like 1st and
2nd gen DSMs bearings are
> the same, but I am not sure so I emailed
Magnus Motorsports to find out.
> I'll let you know what I find
out.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 09:33:23
-0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Tranny Oil
Reading Rich Merritt's ongoing saga, I finally remembered to
locate the Redline MTL Technical Information pamphlet so I could share some of
the information it says about GL-4 and GL-5 oils. Realizing that some of
this is advertisement, here are the important points:
"Gear and
Synchronizer Wear Protection. Most manufacturers of manual transmissions
and transaxles recommend an 80W or 90W GL-4 lubricant. GL-5 gear oils
which are required in hypoid differentials are not used in most synchromesh
transmissions because the chemicals used to provide the extreme pressure
protection can be corrosive to synchronizers, which are commonly made of brass
or bronze. Typically, the use of a GL-5 lubricant in a synchromesh
transmission will shorten the synchronizer life by one half. The extreme
pressure requirements of spur gears and helical gears found in transmissions are
not nearly as great as found in rear-wheel drive differentials. A GL-4
lubricant provides adequate protection for most manual transmissions, unless a
unique design consideration requires the extra protection of a
GL-5."
With regard to the use of motor oil, the pamphlet states:
"The reason that many manufacturers have made recommendations of motor oils or
ATFs is that petroleum 80W gear oils frequently do not shift well as low
temperatures. Motor oils and ATFs are much more fluid at lower
temperatures and they are not corrosive toward synchros, but they provide very
poor gear protection. These lubricants provide almost no extreme-pressure
protection. In addition, petroleum multi-grade motor oils and ATFs have
very poor shear stability. The shearing action by a manual transmission on
thickeners is much worse than in an engine or automatic transmission.
Within 5000 miles the thickeners can be rendered ineffective and the
transmission will be operating on a much reduced level of protection, as shown
in the graph below. In hot weather these transmissions will whine and
rattle because of poor vibration dampening and metal
contact."
Above email is for intended recipient only and may be
confidential and protected by attorney/client privilege.
If you are not the
intended recipient, please advise the sender immediately.
Unauthorized use or
distribution is prohibited and may be unlawful.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 08:36:25
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: OT: Learn to race with the Pros! Announcing a new driving
school with Pro Instructors
This looks like the sort of thing they have
for skiers called a "breakthrough" school to get you off a plateau in
performance.
Interesting.
Chuck Willis
- -----Original
Message-----
From: E.T. [mailto:ET@GoneRacing.com]
Sent: Friday, October
24, 2003 6:13 PM
To:
Team3S@Team3S.comCc:
3SRacers@Team3S.comSubject: 3S-Racers:
OT: Learn to race with the Pros! Announcing a new
driving school with Pro
Instructors
Announcing a NEW Driving
School!
Have you been
driving at track events, and wishing that someone
would show you what to do
to improve your driving
skills?
Are you frustrated by
the lack of instruction you've received
to
date?
Are you in a rut
and in need of some coaching?
Do you want to drive faster and
safer?
Do you want to learn
from one of the pros? ...from someone who
has a "track record" of
experience, and a wall full of trophies?
If you answered 'yes' to
any of these questions, you should join us at :
Gone
Racing - "The Next Level" Driving School
Featuring: Head
Coach: Albert Butterfield
Instructors: Dave Brown, Donny Edwards and
Vicman Ng
Course Offering: Our school addresses the needs of
drivers who want to
improve their driving skills, both on the track and on
the street.
Drivers will learn how to drive better, faster and safer. They
will
learn racing techniques and strategies. Those who want to race
will
learn how to become a winner. Courses are 2 days of instruction in
the
classroom and on the track. Students should bring their own cars,
either
street or race cars. Race cars can be leased if
desired.
Note: In order to prepare drivers for their next race or
High
Performance Driving Event, all courses will be offered in advance
of
NASA events. One-on-one coaching is also available at race and
driving
events.
Foreword: "This summer, I received my
competition license and began my
racing career. I bought a Spec Miata
race car. Before obtaining my
competition license, I had completed 3 years of
NASA High Performance
Driving Events, but there was a lot that I still didn't
know, or that I
wish someone had taught me before I went on the track. So I
sought out
private couching and instruction from Al Butterfield, Vicman Ng,
Donny
Edwards, and Dave Brown. During this time, I learned how to
better
control my car and drive faster and safer. Making the transition from
a
High Performance Driving Event to a Competition Race was a
traumatic
experience for me-- in the past few months, I have had body
contact,
spun off the track numerous times, blew a motor... BUT, out of the
5
races I've entered, I've placed second in 3 of the events, and I've
had
the most exhilarating time of my life! I attribute my success to
the
private instruction I've received.
Racing has become a passion for me,
and I enjoy sharing my love of the
sport with others. I want to share my
driving experience with others who
are following the same path. My job
career has been as a director of
"Fortune500" firms for the past 25 years -
my expertise has been in
creating teams of top people who can make things
happen. So I have
decided to apply my professional talent to my passion -
racing. I've
assembled some of the most talented and successful race
winners to
instruct drivers who want to improve their skills... to teach them
how
drive faster, smoother, and safer. In addition to being
accomplished
racecar drivers, our instructors have many years' experience
coaching
students on racing techniques. Led by Albert Butterfield, a
former
instructor and test car driver for Bob Bondurant, our instructors
will
provide each student with one-on-one and group coaching. In addition
to
improving their driving skills, students will have fun learning.
Every
student will leave the course with vastly improved driving skills."
- ---Eileen Thomas, Spec Miata #70
Who Should Attend:
- --Racecar drivers who want to improve their skills and bring them
to
"the next level".
- --Auto enthusiasts who want to dramatically
improve their racing skills,
but are not necessarily keen on participating in
racing competition.
- --Women who would like to learn how to race, *and* how
to apply the
"intimidation factor" that is so natural to men.
- --Newly
licensed drivers with high-performance cars.
- --Corporations who wish to
hold driving events and special programs.
Location:
Reno-Fernley
Raceway, Fernley NV
Price:
Special introductory rates of $195
per day, $350 for 2 days
Dates available:
Friday Oct. 31 -
Sunday, Nov. 2
Fri. Dec. 12 - Sat., Dec. 13
2004 schedule to be
determined
To register or for more information, contact:
Eileen Thomas "E.T."
et@goneracing.com415
350-4701
Please reply privately, (and not to the list), or on the
Team3S Racers
list with your questions or comments
- --
To
sub: Email
majordomo@speedtoys.com with a body of
'subscribe 3sracers'.
To unsub: Email
majordomo@speedtoys.com with a body of
'unsubscribe 3sracers'
"Ban low performance drivers, not high performance
cars."
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 09:17:35
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Brake Flush
Wrong bleeding sequence:
Right Rear, Left
front, Left rear, Right front. It's in the service manual.
Just use
fresh brake fluid, no cleaner necessary.
Are you driving on the
track? If not cheap pads should be fine.
Chuck Willis
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Danno
[mailto:palermod@pilot.msu.edu]
Sent: Saturday, October 25, 2003 9:16
PM
To: 'Team3S'
Subject: Team3S: Brake Flush
And now to finish
the job.
I'd like to flush the brake lines. Does the group
recommend merely
using clean brake fluid, or is there a special cleaner that
I would put
in the master cylinder to bleed through the lines to flush them
clean?
Also, correct me if I don't have this right: Blead starting
from right
rear, to left rear to front right to front left (farthest to
nearest the
master cylinder). Is this right?
As far as pads, I
was looking at the R4S, but with all the running
around I've been doing, I
have to ask, what about the cheapies? The
Raybestos or off-brand
pads? What's the down-side to using them? How
about ceramic
pads?
Thanks!
- - Dan
'95 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 11:00:26
-0500
From: "Jim Fay" <
jfay@tssu.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: Brake
flush
Don't wish to go against the book, so take with grain of
salt. I change my
brake fluid every year while doing the other
fluids. I just pick the brake
closest to the corner of the car I am
working on, so never follow the same
sequence, and have never started the car
for the flushings. Never had a
problem with air in the system or the
ABS light comming on. The pump will
only run if the ABS computer senses
a wheel locking or during its self test
after starting the car and moving in
forward or reverse over 3 mph. And in
each case will run only as long
as its needed, it does not stay on waiting
for the next locking wheel
occurance. The self test is just a pressure
check, once it makes
pressure, it shuts off.
Jim
91 RTTT
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 07:49:17
-0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Re: 3S-Racers: OT: Learn to race with the Pros! Announcing a new driving school
with Pro Instructors
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Willis,
Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
>
This looks like the sort of thing they have for skiers called
a
"breakthrough" school to get you off a plateau in performance.
>
Interesting.
> Chuck Willis
-
--------------------------->
This is more than a breakthrough - these
guys are *magic*. :-) They taught
their first student in the
school, Donna, at the last 2 area event weekends.
She's half of a
husband-wife Vette team (his is a Lingenfelter LT-1 with
650HP, hers a C-5),
and they rented her a Honda racecar at Buttonwillow for
two days of
instruction. (In-car coaching, classroom, and lead-follow with 2
cars,
incl. ET's Spec Miata). She liked the Honda so much she bought it.
At
Sears Point this past weekend Donna entered her very first race -
ever. In a
field of 28 cars in SP-2 class, she took FIRST PLACE with a
2:01:50 fastest
lap time! This lady is FAST. In way of
comparison, I took 8 seconds off my
previous personal best in the VR-4
(2:13), with a lap time of 2:05:16
(100-octane gas, -0.6 camber, 16psi boost,
Proxes RA-1's at 38F/33R. Rick
Pierce and I datalogged my first run - NO
knock!) And she was 4 seconds
faster than that!
Personal
coaching with these guys really works - I'm a *very* happy man with
my time,
too! I passed almost *everybody* in Group 4 in my "Blue
Beast"
Battleship Mitsubishi. :-) But I set my brakes on fire
twice - not smoke -
fire. Gotta get a higher-temp compound than
R4
Porterfields and get rid of these damned X-drilled rotors... But
stock brakes
DO work fine, if you don't slow down. ;-)
We're off
to Reno this AM to negotiate with the track owner for arrangements
for
running the
"Gone Racing" school, and other projects-- "Over and out"
for a couple of
days...
- --Forrest
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 11:57:38
-0500
From: "Gene Calarco" <
gac@clifton.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
Fw: Team3S: A different question on rotors
Has anyone used Bendix OEM
Rotors? I saw some surplus for about 30.00
a
peice.
Eugene
92' DOHC NT
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Gene Calarco" <
gac@clifton.ds.adp.com>
To:
"Team3S" <
Team3S@Team3S.com>
Sent: Wednesday,
October 22, 2003 2:45 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: A different question on
rotors
> So after all the discussion on rotor technology we are
still back to
square
> 1. Science would tell us to use the 108.00
a piece stock Mitsu rotor from
> the dealer over the drilled and slotted
HP rotors for 180.00 a piece.
> =================== snip
====================
> Eugene
> 92'DOHC NT
> ----- Original
Message -----
> From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
> To: <
Team3S@team3s.com>
> Cc: "Jeff
Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
>
Sent: Tuesday, October 21, 2003 7:51 PM
> Subject: Re: Team3S: A different
question on rotors
>
>
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
>
>
> >
> > > FWIW. :)
> > > From:
http://www.buybrakes.com/brembo/faq.html>
> ---------------------------->
> > LOL! "FWIW" - ("For
what it's worth"), and we all KNOW "what it's
worth"
> that
>
> Brembo said it, don't we!?! Advertisers don't lie. ;-)
Oh, goody!
> Another
> > vendor selling their own product.
What do you expect them to say? I
used
> to
> > write
advertising copy, so let me break down the TRUE meaning of these
>
quotes
> > for all of you..., one sentence at a time, the way the
copywriter
> *thinks*--
> > what it "SAYS", and what it
"MEANS": ;-)
> >
> >
> > What it
SAYS: "Brembo has extensively studied and
tested
cross-drilling
> > versus casting the holes in place and
found no significant effect on
> > performance or durability.":
>
> ----------------
> > What it MEANS: "We saw a 30%
failure rate on the track, but since 97%
of
> you
> > will
never use these on the track, we don't regard this flaw affecting
3%
>
of
> > users to be *significant*. Most of you won't notice the
difference if
our
> > drilled rotors warp when they're heated up,
since you'll be killed or
> arrested
> > if you ever run them
that hard on the street. Besides, it would cost us
> too
>
> much to make them as good as Porsche cast rotors, and you'd never
buy
them
> if
> > we told you that anyway."
>
>
> > What it SAYS: "The main advantages of drilled and
slotted discs are
the
> > same: increased brake "bite", and a
continuous refreshing of the brake
pad
> > surface."
> >
----------------
> > What it MEANS: "This is very much to
OUR advantage, because drilled
> holes
> > 'gouge' out the
surface of the pad as they pass over them. The
>
'refreshing'
> > of the pad surface means that it wears away more
quickly, creating an
> > increasingly thinner pad with each use...,
which is also to our
> advantage--
> > The thinner pads will
become hot much sooner, causing them to crack and
> > crumble
prematurely. Thusly, you'll have to buy our pads
more
frequently,
> > making us more money."
> >
>
> What it SAYS: "Drilled discs have the additional advantage of
being
> lighter
> > and running cooler."
> >
----------------
> > What it MEANS: "We use less material
in our drilled rotors, which
saves
> us a
> > great deal of
money. As long as the brakes are not applied, air passing
>
over
> > the lesser-mass rotor will keep it cooler, when compared to an
undrilled
> rotor
> > at full mass. Conversely, they will
also heat up faster, since there is
> less
> > metal to absorb
heat, but we don't see the need to discuss that, since
> then
> >
you won't buy our product."
> >
> > What it SAYS:
"However, there are certain pad materials that should
not
> be
>
> used with a drilled disc."
> > ----------------
> > What
it MEANS: "We have to cover our ass here-- if you buy the
pads
we
> > recommend for the street and you use them on the track,
they will fail
> rather
> > quickly. In fact, so will most
of the track pads we sell as premium
> products.
> > BUT, if you
are willing to spend the $300 each for the custom-made
> >
diamond-carborundum +++ pads we recommend for extreme applications, you
>
*may*
> > get the same results we did in our testing sample. Or
not."
> >
> > What it SAYS: "Braking generates
heat, and the more heat the disc can
> absorb
> > and dissipate,
the greater the fade resistance of the system."
> >
----------------
> > What it MEANS: "This happens to be
true, but we're not saying that it
> > applies to our product - it's
just a general fact. What we're telling
you
> > here is that
our lower-mass rotor will absorb less heat, but you
probably
> >
think that's a good thing, since we threw in this unrelated factoid.
>
We're
> > banking on the fact that you're as dumb as a rock, and that
you can't
> fathom
> > the significance of what we say - as long
as we use the right buzzwords
to
> > hypnotize you. You'll
believe *anything* we tell you, as long as there
is
> > water
splashing or dust flying off the wheels in our commercials."
>
>
> > What it SAYS: "Additionally, the use of a larger
disc generally
results
> in a
> > larger effective radius,
which increases brake torque."
> >
> >
----------------
> > What it MEANS: "This really has
nothing to do with the topic at hand,
> but...
> > We've got to
plant the subliminal seed of (whisper) *Upgrade,
upgrade...*
>
in
> > your tiny little brain. You haven't a clue if 'increasing
brake torque'
> is a
> > good thing, but it sounds 'bigger', so
dammit - we know you'll buy it.
> You
> > also don't have the
deductive powers to recognize that 'generally' can
be
> as
> >
little as '51% of the time', which means that in the extreme case,
49%
of
> the
> > time the use of a larger disc will NOT result
in a larger effective
> radius.
> > And you don't know if that is
a good thing either, but since we said it,
> you
> > can trust
us."
> > ---
> >
> > "Caveat Emptor", people...
("Let the buyer beware").
> >
> > Although I wrote the above
commentary somewhat "tongue-in-cheek", I'm
> really
> > telling
you the facts about how a copywriter thinks. I can't remember
>
which
> > famous "ad man" said it - it was either Bill Bernbach (Doyle
Dane
> Bernbach) or
> > Jerry Della Femina (Young & Rubicam)
- but it is THE truth about that
> > business: "Advertising is
all about selling a product that people don't
> want,
> > don't
need, and can't afford. And making them feel good after they've
>
bought
> > it, whether it's useful or not." Advertisers CAN and
WILL say
*anything*
> to
> > sell their product, including
throwing a bunch of twisted facts at you
> until
> > you only see
the buzzwords, not the meaning. If the above quotes are
the
>
best
> > Brembo can do, that cross-drilled, non-cast rotor must
*really* suck.
> IMHO...
> > ;-)
> >
> > Over
and out...
> >
> > Forrest
> >
> >
>
>
> > *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> >
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 09:11:05
-0800
From: "Ken Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Slow boost, was: Did another datalog...
Hi Bob,
Slow
boost has been my nemisis too ever since my rebuild 22 months ago.
My
13G's wouldn't reach 1.00 kg/cm^^2 until 4200 RPM in 3rd, and
wouldn't even
come close in 1st or 2nd, usually .75 to .80. I searched
and elimiated
boost leaks, tried leaning out fuel, etc but nothing
helped. I got the same
results without a cat, and even without a
downpipe (I'm sure my neighbors
enjoyed those test runs!)
In another
attempt to fix my slow spool, I ordered the MAF-T/LS6 maf combo
from Ryan
(see threads on 3si.org) the week before last. Upon installation,
I
immediatly noticed faster spool times, but obviously needed fuel
tuning.
After tuning it, my spool times were slow once again. After
discovering and
correcting an incorrect "mode" setting on the maf-t, I began
to retune. I
finally figured out that upon initial installation, my
improved spool-up
times occured because I was running very rich. During
retuning, I richened
up the hi 3000 rpm setting on my SAFC. It
worked! Now I hit 1.00 in 1st
and 2nd, and around 3200 in
3rd!
Try some richer settings in the 3000 RPM range to see if that helps
your
spool-up times.
With the maf-t/ls5 maf, my hi settings are much
leaner than before, although
my O2 voltages are higher. They run from
.98 to 1.00, whereas before, I
tuned to .94 to .96. Below are my
current settings, although I'm
still
fine-tuning:
RPM
Lo
Hi
1000
-20
-35
2000
-29
-32
2500
-29
-32
3000
-31
-16
4000
-28
-33
5000
-28
-41
6000
-28
-41
7000
-28 -41
Mods: MHI 13G's,
maf-t/ls6 maf with 8" K&N air filter, RC 550 cc injectors,
Supra fuel
pump, Eric Gross fuel pump rewire, SAFC, SAVC-R, gutted precats,
Melton
downpipe, high-flow cat, stock cat-back exhaust.
Good luck
Bob,
Ken
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Sent: Friday,
October 24, 2003 3:03 PM
Subject: Team3S: Did another
datalog...
> I did a couple of 2nd gear pulls and a couple in 3rd
- mostly to ~6k (one
up
> to 6300, none to redline).
>
> I
changed the A/F settings on the SAFC-II according to the numbers I gave
>
Damon a while back (see below my sig), and the low throttle point was
at
10%
> and the high *was* at 50%. Still the same sucky results,
although the car
> feels OK. There's a lag still, and the boost
seems to come on late, but
> strong - right up to 1 bar. See what
you can tell from the numbers,
please...
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 10:16:24
-0800
From: "James Mutton" <
james@playstream.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Fuel Pressure and AFR
Good point. I don't have an answer
off the top of my head, and work
isn't as slow today as it was Friday.
;) My calculations didn't take
into account the "actual" fuel pressure
that would be in the lines from
a 1:1 rising rate fuel pressure regulator,
they were more like "all
things being equal what would change if fuel
pressure alone changes"
calculations. I'd suggest that I'm incorrect as
to the amount of pulse
width required since the pressure in the lines is
likely to be 14 psi
more at low rpms. Still it should come as no
surprise to any of use
that the stock fuel system is inadequate of our fuel
up to the maximum
output of stock turbos.
- -James
95 Green
VR4
With DSM 450s sitting on the shelf for over a year. :(
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Ken Stanton [mailto:ken.c.stanton@usa.net]
Sent: Friday, October 24, 2003 5:53 PM
To: James Mutton; Team3S List
(E-mail)
Subject: Re: Team3S: Fuel Pressure and AFR
Great
mathematical breakdown James!
Now, considering the time
available:
rev 1
min 1
cycle
cycle
rpm
cycle
- --- * ------ * -------- =
------- ==> ------- =
------
min 60 sec
2 rev
sec
120
sec
Inverting this result gives sec (or ms here) per cycle.
For each 1000
rpm
block:
1000 rpm = 120ms
2000 rpm =
60ms
3000 rpm = 40ms
4000 rpm = 30ms
5000 rpm = 24ms
6000 rpm =
20ms
7000 rpm = 17ms
So, from your statement indicating that we need
46.5ms to supply enough
fuel to get the desired AFR, even at 100% duty cycle
we're falling short
above ~2500 rpm. Is one of us grossly
miscalculating, or does airflow
fall off dramatically at higher rpm's
maybe?
Ken Stanton
91 Pearl White Stealth TT
Starving for
afuelsystem
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 12:10:32
-0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RE- Oil squirters causing Spun bearings (was 1991 Turbo
engine needed)
Ya..I hear this on every list im on for all sorts of car
types.
Its called age.
On Sun, 26 Oct 2003, Ken Stanton
wrote:
> It seems everyone dances around this statement directly, but
which motors
> (years, models) are we suspecting exactly?
>
>
I have a '91 that I'm trying to diagnose a low oil pressure issue
with.
> It -occasionally- starts up warm with no pressure, but after
a quick rev of
> the engine pulls up to normal. No other
issues. Also, this problem is
> minimized/nearly eliminated by using
Valv MaxLife oil.
>
> Ken Stanton
> 91 Pearl White Stealth
TT
> Under Pressure
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
> To:
"'John Monnin'" <
john.monnin@comcast.net>; <
Team3S@team3s.com>
> Sent: Sunday,
October 26, 2003 7:31 PM
> Subject: RE: Team3S: RE- Oil squirters causing
Spun bearings (was 1991 Turbo
> engine needed)
>
>
>
> Yah, I actually just finished reading Magnus's webpage... They
compared
> > a 93 block which has the same crank and rods as the 95+
2nd gen motor.
> > This is referred to as a 7 bolt DSM motor (7 bolts
on the crank to
> > flywheel interface)... Older DSM motors,
89-92.5, are referred to as 6
> > bolts or "big rod" motors...
The rods are huge in comparison, all of
> > the bearing journals are
huge, rod bearings and crank bearings are
> > giant, and, on top of all
of that, they use the same type of oil
> > squirters as you saw on that
'93 block... It's really a damn near
> > bulletproof motor from
the factory.... Now, however, from reading what
> > they had to
say, I agree entirely with their statements... Assuming
> > this
can be an issue with the 3/S turbo motor oil squirters, then it is
> >
definitely worth looking into... I really think it's a piss poor
design
> > really, "hmmm, lets pull oil from the part that needs it the
most..."
> >
> > And yes, I knew of the oil passages in the
rods for the piston bore
> > walls, but, as you mentioned, these are
not for cooling of the piston
> > itself...
> >
> >
-Cody
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> >
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On
> > Behalf
> > > Of
John Monnin
> > > Sent: Sunday, October 26, 2003 1:05 PM
>
> > To: 'cody';
Team3S@team3s.com> > > Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE- Oil squirters causing Spun bearings (was 1991
> > >
Turbo engine needed)
> > >
> > > Cody:
> >
>
> > > I just double checked a TT rod (same part number as NA
Rod), It does
> > > not have a check valve, BUT it definitely
has a passage from the main
> > > rod bearing to an orifice that
squirts on the piston. The rod bearing
> > > has a hole in it
that lines up with this passage.
> > >
> > > Below is a
picture of a TT rod and piston below a GN Rod. Look on the
> >
> bottom side (relative to this picture) of the rod, the small bump
is
> > the
> > > orifice opening, it points more to the
cylinder wall than to the
> > piston.
> > >
> >
>
http://www.monninengineering.com/images/RodComparison.JPG>
> >
> > >
> > > The lack of check valve destroys
my theory that they might be failing
> > on
> > > NAs but I
am stubborn enough to question if the squirters may bleed
> >
off
> > > too much oil if the oil pump is a little too worn. I
am also stubborn
> > > enough to still question the main bearings
because each main bearing
> > oil
> > > supply is shared
with at least 1 oil squirter. The 2 center main
> > > bearing
journals supply 2 oil squirters. On my engine it was a center
> >
> main bearing that looked the worst. See my webpage, first picture
at
> > > top to see main bearings worn too far.
> >
>
> > >
http://johnmonnin.netfirms.com/4boltPictures.html>
> >
> > >
> > > Just for reference this is a
picture of the oil squirters in the block
> > >
> > >
http://www.monninengineering.com/images/OilSquirter.JPG>
> >
> > > My personal experience was when I tore my TT engine
apart (timing belt
> > > jumped) the Rods bearings looked perfect
but most of my main journal
> > > bearings had too much wear and one
main journal was very close to a
> > > failure
> > >
These bearings only had 86,000 miles on it, At least 50,000 of
those
> > > miles were with synthetic oil changes every 2500 miles
and with my
> > wife
> > > driving it almost exclusively
and she is a very calm driver
> > > I bought this car at a dealer
with only 36,000 miles on it and the
> > > condition of the rest of
the car suggested to me that that the
> > original
> > >
owner took very good care of it before I bought it.
> > >
>
> > To me it is completely unacceptable for a well maintained modern
car
> > to
> > > have this kind of bearing wear. I
originally assumed that there was
> > > some kind of oil
contamination or OEM bearing clearance problem but I
> > > have seen
enough people spins bearing that I am convinced that the
> > >
oiling system on these engines do not have enough of a safety factor
>
> > built in. 2 NA's developed rod knock during the NG04 Road
course
> > > alone, this just irritates me.
> >
>
> > > P.S. From the pictures it looks like 1st and 2nd
gen DSMs bearings
> > are
> > > the same, but I am not sure
so I emailed Magnus Motorsports to find
> > out.
> > > I'll
let you know what I find out.
> > >
> > > John
Monnin
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
>
> > >From: cody [mailto:overclck@satx.rr.com]
> > >
>Sent: Sunday, October 26, 2003 12:31 PM
> > > >To: 'John
Monnin';
Team3S@team3s.com> >
> >Subject: RE: Team3S: RE- Oil squirters causing Spun bearings
(was
> > 1991
> > > >Turbo engine needed)
> >
>
> > > >Oil squirters are not in the rods, but in the block,
hopefully that's
> > > >just a confusion... IMHO, the
design of the crank journals and the
> > > >diameters and widths
of the journals are what causes crankwalk in the
> > > 2g
>
> > >DSM cars... Although it may be oil supply related, I don't
think
> > > that's
> > > >where to look...
>
> >
> > > -Cody
> > >
> > >
>
> >
> > > *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> >
> >
> >
> > *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> >
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
- ---
www.SpeedToys.com: Geoff Mohler
orders@speedtoys.comTeam3S/3Si.org
Vendor approved brake discounter; also,
parts for Toyota, Audi, BMW,
Mercedes, Porsche, SAAB, Volvo.
Where do you buy YOUR brakes? I can
help...asking is free! :)
"If its in stock, we have
it!"
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 12:15:55
-0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: OT: Learn to race with the Pros! Announcing a new driving
school with Pro Instructors
> fire. Gotta get a higher-temp
compound than R4
- ---
Correction..you dont have a temp issue, you have a
size issue.
1600d pads overheating with one pad, will still overheat with
another
1600d pad (and thats damn hot).
You'll end up buying a higher
friction pad..and you'll trade off with
buying rotors like you do brake
pads.
> Porterfields and get rid of these damned X-drilled
rotors... But stock brakes
> DO work fine, if you don't slow
down. ;-)
>
> We're off to Reno this AM to negotiate with the
track owner for arrangements
> for running the
> "Gone Racing"
school, and other projects-- "Over and out" for a couple of
>
days...
>
> --Forrest
>
>
>
> --
>
To sub: Email
majordomo@speedtoys.com with a body of
'subscribe 3sracers'.
> To unsub: Email
majordomo@speedtoys.com with a body of
'unsubscribe 3sracers'
> "Ban low performance drivers, not high
performance cars."
>
- ---
www.SpeedToys.com: Geoff Mohler
orders@speedtoys.comTeam3S/3Si.org
Vendor approved brake discounter; also,
parts for Toyota, Audi, BMW,
Mercedes, Porsche, SAAB, Volvo.
Where do you buy YOUR brakes? I can
help...asking is free! :)
"If its in stock, we have
it!"
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 11:11:54
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Brake Bleeding
Funny how there's already a thread about bleed
order and running the engine or not...
I've had a problem the last 3
times I've bled my brakes. The first time, I thought it was my
fault. The second time, I thought it was because I was at the track
driving the crap out of the car. Now, with the third time, I don't think
it's a coincidence.
After bleeding my brakes and then driving for
50-300mi, the cap on my brake fluid reservoir pops off. Not "flies off to
the nether regions of the engine bay," but "pops loose from the threads and
allows brake fluid to slosh about, eventually making its way down to my power
steering pump/belt and making it squeak."
The last two times (and I was
pretty sure the first time, too) I've been extra careful to make sure the cap
was fully tightened and hadn't skipped any threads. Therefore, I have to
conclude that something is causing a pressure buildup in the reservoir and
popping the cap off. Once it pops off and I retighten it, it never pops
off again until I bleed the brakes again.
The only thing I can come up
with is that the last 3 times (I know for sure, and it may be more times than
that) I bled the brakes, I *didn't* start the engine. Mainly, this was
because I was in my garage and didn't want to breathe exhaust fumes while
bleeding the brakes. Perhaps the reason for running the engine isn't
because it engages the ABS electronics, but that it provides brake boost and
allows greater braking pressure.
Does that even make sense?
--that if you bleed the brakes with the engine off and then seal the system, the
pressures generated in the braking system with the engine running will cause a
pressure build-up in the reservoir and be able to pop the cap off?
Any
ideas as to what's going on here? Next time I bleed the brakes, I will
certainly do it with the engine on and keep a close eye on the reservoir
cap...
In case it matters, I have stock calipers/rotors, speed bleeders,
R4S pads, and ATE Super Blue fluid.
- --Erik
'95 VR-4
www.team3s.com/~egross***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 20:26:53
+0000
From:
mjannusch@comcast.netSubject: RE:
Team3S: Fuel Pressure and AFR
> Still it should come as no surprise to
any of use
> that the stock fuel system is inadequate of our
> fuel
up to the maximum output of stock turbos.
It is really only the pump
that's a weak link with stock turbos. If you upgrade the pump, you are
good to go for as much air as the stock turbos will flow (which isn't
much).
I wouldn't flaw the whole system at that level of
upgrades.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 12:30:04
-0800
From: "Gizmo" <
kdmorg@comcast.net>
Subject: Team3S:
A definitive answer to my old question!
Hi guys/ladies,
Some
months ago I asked about an AWD Automatic tranny to convert from the
FWD auto
I now have. This is what I learned.
"Mitsubishi made 3 different auto
3000GT models. A N/A auto 2WD and a AWD
N/A
auto. The third being the
Turbo AWD model.
All three would exist as used imports in NZ.
Mitsubishi
also make a Diamante AWD with auto and some Lancer Evo 7 GT-A
with autos and
turbo AWD." (thanks to Lloyd in New Zealand!)
It may be possible to find
a Diamante in the States with the proper tranny!
Then all I need is the rear
differential assembly and drive shaft.
As far as the suggestion that I
may need to do some frame work....Well, what
is that driveline tunnel for?
Did they actually make a different frame for
each model? That would not be
economical.
Any thoughts on this?
Regards,
Keith Morgavi
(diseased old fart)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 12:39:04
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
RE- Oil squirters causing Spun bearings (was 1991 Turbo engine
needed)
They did a poll on the 3SI.org site a while ago and that seemed
to show 1st gen cars
were affected more --- I don't remember the results but
I'd guess the number of people
responding was limited. To be statistically
significant I'd think you would need several
hundred examples and I know
there was nowhere near that.
In the case of no pressure at start I'd
suspect the sending unit --- does the oil pressure
light come on also
???
Jim
Berry
====================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Ken Stanton" <
ken.c.stanton@usa.net>
To: <
Team3S@team3s.com>
Sent: Sunday,
October 26, 2003 4:39 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE- Oil squirters causing Spun
bearings (was 1991 Turbo engine needed)
> It seems everyone dances
around this statement directly, but which motors
> (years, models) are we
suspecting exactly?
>
> I have a '91 that I'm trying to diagnose a
low oil pressure issue with.
> It -occasionally- starts up warm with
no pressure, but after a quick rev of
> the engine pulls up to
normal. No other issues. Also, this problem is
>
minimized/nearly eliminated by using Valv MaxLife
oil.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 14:42:31
-0600
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: A definitive answer to my old question!
>
>It may be
possible to find a Diamante in the States with the proper tranny!
>Then
all I need is the rear differential assembly and drive shaft.
>As far as
the suggestion that I may need to do some frame work....Well, what
>is
that driveline tunnel for? Did they actually make a different frame
for
>each model? That would not be economical.
>
Having spent
considerable time under my VR4, I can say this: The transfer
case is not
supported by anything other than the transmission case. No
brackets needed
there.
The driveshaft is supported by a big fat bracket about three ft back
that
should be readily available at a junkyard. If the holes are present in
your
frame, it should bolt up.
I can't tell you about the rear end
supports.
Rich/still shiftless old poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 13:04:16
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
RE- Oil squirters causing Spun bearings (was 1991 Turbo engine
needed)
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
>
> I
don't remember why, but I do remember them saying "don't cross drill,
that
> will not resolve the problem".
>
> That's just what I
remember reading.
I found the artical I was refering to and as expected
they thought their finding
would change the world of racing --- at least
944's
http://www.huntleyracing.com/cranks_special_info.htmI
queried a HPO engine builder on the cross drilling and his response
is
copied below.
Hmm,
Just read the article the guy wrote. Either
the article is old, or he is a
little behind the times. Cross-drilling
has been around for a long time,
when the issue first came up, everybody
thought it was the magic bullet that
would cure all bearing problems, we now
know that it is not. Don't get me
wrong, cross-drilling does address a
very real issue, as a matter of fact, in
the domestic V-8 world, it is
generally assumed that any hi-po racing crank
will be cross-drilled,
however, cross-drilling is not the answer to all our
problems.
Cross-drilled cranks can and do regularly fail at the bearings,
plus, in the
past year or so, I've been reading a lot about problems with
cross-drilled
cranks on street driven machines. This is a controversial
issue, but
the most recent concessus is: race-only motors get cross-drilled,
street/strip motors should not be cross-drilled. Keep in mine, this
thinking
applies to V-8's that stay under 7000 rpm on the street, what
happens to an
8000 rpm street motor? I do know that two years ago, if
you bought a high $
racing crank, it came cross-drilled, you had no choice,
now, most of the
major crank builders give you the option to have it drilled
or not. I also
know that cross-drilling a crank improperly will lead
to immediate failure,
and that it is hard to do properly, so if you do have
it done, make sure you
trust the shop doing the work.
If it was my
motor, I'm not sure what I would do. You risk a lot by being
one of
the first guys to try it on a 6G72 motor (a bearing failure is one
thing,
but a crank that fractures at the cross-drill at 8000 rpm is another
thing),
on the other hand, it might solve your problems. Weighing all the
evidence, I'd probably take my chances with a properly prepped and
blueprinted crank without cross-drilling. Sounds like you have found a
high-quality machine shop, I'd ask them, and go with what they
recommend.
Tough choice
though.
Cyrus
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 16:10:57
-0500
From: "Ken Stanton" <
ken.c.stanton@usa.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RE- Oil squirters causing Spun bearings (was 1991 Turbo
engine needed)
Yes, I am -sure- there is no oil pressure. The light
comes on, and even if
the gauge and the light didn't work, the car knocks
like a sumnabitch. I
rev it quick, its gone. If this is so, any
thougths as to why the MaxLife
oil would help sooooo much? With Mobil1
I -never- have oil pressure on warm
starts.
Ken
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
To: "Ken Stanton"
<
ken.c.stanton@usa.net>; <
Team3S@team3s.com>
Sent: Monday,
October 27, 2003 3:39 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE- Oil squirters causing Spun
bearings (was 1991 Turbo
engine needed)
> They did a poll on
the 3SI.org site a while ago and that seemed to show
1st gen cars
>
were affected more --- I don't remember the results but I'd guess the
number
of people
> responding was limited. To be statistically significant I'd
think you
would need several
> hundred examples and I know there was
nowhere near that.
>
> In the case of no pressure at start I'd
suspect the sending unit --- does
the oil pressure
> light come on also
???
>
> Jim
Berry
> ====================================================
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: "Ken Stanton" <
ken.c.stanton@usa.net>
> To:
<
Team3S@team3s.com>
> Sent:
Sunday, October 26, 2003 4:39 PM
> Subject: Re: Team3S: RE- Oil squirters
causing Spun bearings (was 1991
Turbo engine needed)
>
>
>
> It seems everyone dances around this statement directly, but
which
motors
> > (years, models) are we suspecting exactly?
>
>
> > I have a '91 that I'm trying to diagnose a low oil pressure
issue with.
> > It -occasionally- starts up warm with no
pressure, but after a quick
rev of
> > the engine pulls up to
normal. No other issues. Also, this problem is
> >
minimized/nearly eliminated by using Valv MaxLife
oil.
>
>
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 15:06:04
-0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RE- Oil squirters causing Spun bearings (was 1991 Turbo
engine needed)
Its thicker when cold..simple.
On Mon, 27 Oct 2003,
Ken Stanton wrote:
> Yes, I am -sure- there is no oil pressure.
The light comes on, and even if
> the gauge and the light didn't work, the
car knocks like a sumnabitch. I
> rev it quick, its gone. If
this is so, any thougths as to why the MaxLife
> oil would help sooooo
much? With Mobil1 I -never- have oil pressure on warm
>
starts.
>
> Ken
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
> To: "Ken Stanton"
<
ken.c.stanton@usa.net>; <
Team3S@team3s.com>
> Sent: Monday,
October 27, 2003 3:39 PM
> Subject: Re: Team3S: RE- Oil squirters causing
Spun bearings (was 1991 Turbo
> engine needed)
>
>
>
> They did a poll on the 3SI.org site a while ago and that seemed to
show
> 1st gen cars
> > were affected more --- I don't remember
the results but I'd guess the
> number of people
> > responding
was limited. To be statistically significant I'd think you
> would need
several
> > hundred examples and I know there was nowhere near
that.
> >
> > In the case of no pressure at start I'd suspect
the sending unit --- does
> the oil pressure
> > light come on
also ???
> >
>
> Jim Berry
>
> ====================================================
> > -----
Original Message -----
> > From: "Ken Stanton" <
ken.c.stanton@usa.net>
> >
To: <
Team3S@team3s.com>
>
> Sent: Sunday, October 26, 2003 4:39 PM
> > Subject: Re: Team3S:
RE- Oil squirters causing Spun bearings (was 1991
> Turbo engine
needed)
> >
> >
> > > It seems everyone dances
around this statement directly, but which
> motors
> > >
(years, models) are we suspecting exactly?
> > >
> > > I
have a '91 that I'm trying to diagnose a low oil pressure issue with.
>
> > It -occasionally- starts up warm with no pressure, but after a
quick
> rev of
> > > the engine pulls up to normal. No
other issues. Also, this problem is
> > > minimized/nearly
eliminated by using Valv MaxLife oil.
> >
> >
>
>
> >
> > *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> >
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
- ---
www.SpeedToys.com: Geoff Mohler
orders@speedtoys.comTeam3S/3Si.org
Vendor approved brake discounter; also,
parts for Toyota, Audi, BMW,
Mercedes, Porsche, SAAB, Volvo.
Where do you buy YOUR brakes? I can
help...asking is free! :)
"If its in stock, we have
it!"
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 16:51:40
-0500
From: "anthonymelillo" <
anthonymelillo@sprintmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: any such thing as r/c 3000GT
Does anyone know if there is a R/C
3000GT or GTO available anywhere ?
I have built the Tamiya GTO plastic
model. But would really like to build a R/C to match my 97
VR-4.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Tony
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 15:28:42
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: A definitive answer to my old question!
Can you share your
reason for wanting an automatic transmission in an AWD? Only one I could come up
with is if the driver is paraplegic (not a joke - we have some very talented
drivers in this category).
Chuck Willis
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Gizmo [mailto:kdmorg@comcast.net]
Sent: Monday, October
27, 2003 2:30 PM
To: T3S mailingl (E-mail)
Subject: Team3S: A definitive
answer to my old question!
Hi guys/ladies,
Some months ago I
asked about an AWD Automatic tranny to convert from the
FWD auto I now have.
This is what I learned.
"Mitsubishi made 3 different auto 3000GT models.
A N/A auto 2WD and a AWD
N/A
auto. The third being the Turbo AWD
model.
All three would exist as used imports in NZ.
Mitsubishi also make a
Diamante AWD with auto and some Lancer Evo 7 GT-A
with autos and turbo AWD."
(thanks to Lloyd in New Zealand!)
It may be possible to find a Diamante
in the States with the proper tranny!
Then all I need is the rear
differential assembly and drive shaft.
As far as the suggestion that I
may need to do some frame work....Well, what
is that driveline tunnel for?
Did they actually make a different frame for
each model? That would not be
economical.
Any thoughts on this?
Regards,
Keith Morgavi
(diseased old fart)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 13:59:28
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
3S-Racers: OT: Learn to race with the Pros! Announcing a new driving school with
Pro Instructors
Must be operator error old timer --- I was running 2:05's
last year with no brake
problems. R4 pads with Porterfield non cryo treated
rotors and Big Reds --- no
flames, no
fade.
Jim
Berry
==============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Instructors
>
Personal coaching with these guys really works - I'm a *very* happy man
with
> my time, too! I passed almost *everybody* in Group 4 in my
"Blue Beast"
> Battleship Mitsubishi. :-) But I set my brakes
on fire twice - not smoke -
> fire. Gotta get a higher-temp compound
than R4
> Porterfields and get rid of these damned X-drilled
rotors... But stock brakes
> DO work fine, if you don't slow
down. ;-)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 15:48:24
-0600
From: "purdaddy" <
purdaddy@associatedsys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: A definitive answer to my old question!
Don't shoot me, but
don't autos hold boost better (as in, don't take a
long to shift so precious
built-up boost isn't lost through blow off)?
And you could then power brake
and build boost for launches like
Turbo
Regals/GN's/Syclone/Typhoon's.
Or, you could also be lazy or get
tired of shifting. Or, you just can't
drive a stick w/o whacking clutches and
internals.
Ok, those last two may be off topic.
-Patrick
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Willis, Charles E.
Sent:
Monday, October 27, 2003 3:29 PM
To:
kdmorg@comcast.net; T3S mailingl
(E-mail)
Subject: RE: Team3S: A definitive answer to my old
question!
Can you share your reason for wanting an automatic
transmission in an
AWD? Only one I could come up with is if the driver is
paraplegic (not a
joke - we have some very talented drivers in this
category).
Chuck Willis
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Gizmo [mailto:kdmorg@comcast.net]
Sent: Monday, October 27, 2003 2:30
PM
To: T3S mailingl (E-mail)
Subject: Team3S: A definitive answer to my
old question!
Hi guys/ladies,
Some months ago I asked about an
AWD Automatic tranny to convert from
the FWD auto I now have. This is what I
learned.
"Mitsubishi made 3 different auto 3000GT models. A N/A auto 2WD
and a
AWD N/A auto. The third being the Turbo AWD model. All three would
exist
as used imports in NZ. Mitsubishi also make a Diamante AWD with auto
and
some Lancer Evo 7 GT-A with autos and turbo AWD." (thanks to Lloyd
in
New Zealand!)
It may be possible to find a Diamante in the States
with the proper
tranny! Then all I need is the rear differential assembly and
drive
shaft.
As far as the suggestion that I may need to do some frame
work....Well,
what is that driveline tunnel for? Did they actually make a
different
frame for each model? That would not be economical.
Any
thoughts on this?
Regards,
Keith Morgavi (diseased old
fart)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 22:41:17
+0000
From:
mjannusch@comcast.netSubject: RE:
Team3S: A definitive answer to my old question!
> Don't shoot me, but
don't autos hold boost better (as
> in, don't take a long to shift so
precious built-up
> boost isn't lost through blow off)? And you
could
> then power brake and build boost for launches like
> Turbo
Regals/GN's/Syclone/Typhoon's.
Could do that just as easily with a
two-step/stutterbox/clutch-cut. An MSD ignition box would get you there
(or an AEM EMS, or EFI Systems PMS, or......)
I doubt any of those stock
auto AWD trannies would hold up to much powerbraking without heavy
modifications.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 16:34:56
-0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: OT: Learn to race with the Pros! Announcing a new
driving school with Pro Instructors
Different track.
The new
ashpalt is a tad slower, and turn1 is sorta different with a new
hump in
it.
On Mon, 27 Oct 2003, fastmax wrote:
> Must be operator
error old timer --- I was running 2:05's last year with no brake
>
problems. R4 pads with Porterfield non cryo treated rotors and Big Reds ---
no
> flames, no fade.
>
> Jim Berry
>
==============================================
> ----- Original Message
-----
> From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
>
Instructors
>
>
> > Personal coaching with these guys
really works - I'm a *very* happy man with
> > my time, too! I
passed almost *everybody* in Group 4 in my "Blue Beast"
> > Battleship
Mitsubishi. :-) But I set my brakes on fire twice - not smoke
-
> > fire. Gotta get a higher-temp compound than R4
> >
Porterfields and get rid of these damned X-drilled rotors... But stock
brakes
> > DO work fine, if you don't slow down. ;-)
>
>
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
- ---
www.SpeedToys.com: Geoff Mohler
orders@speedtoys.comTeam3S/3Si.org
Vendor approved brake discounter; also,
parts for Toyota, Audi, BMW,
Mercedes, Porsche, SAAB, Volvo.
Where do you buy YOUR brakes? I can
help...asking is free! :)
"If its in stock, we have
it!"
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 16:37:33
-0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: A definitive answer to my old question!
But..a AWD auto under
boost will be a pretty weak tranny, just too many
things goin on compared to
a much simpler and stronger rwd or fwd.
The typhhon had the advantage of
an Xfer case witha standard strong
tranny.
On Mon, 27 Oct 2003,
purdaddy wrote:
> Don't shoot me, but don't autos hold boost better
(as in, don't take a
> long to shift so precious built-up boost isn't lost
through blow off)?
> And you could then power brake and build boost for
launches like Turbo
> Regals/GN's/Syclone/Typhoon's.
>
> Or,
you could also be lazy or get tired of shifting. Or, you just can't
>
drive a stick w/o whacking clutches and internals.
> Ok, those last two
may be off topic.
>
> -Patrick
>
>
>
-----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
> Of Willis, Charles E.
>
Sent: Monday, October 27, 2003 3:29 PM
> To:
kdmorg@comcast.net; T3S mailingl
(E-mail)
> Subject: RE: Team3S: A definitive answer to my old
question!
>
>
> Can you share your reason for wanting an
automatic transmission in an
> AWD? Only one I could come up with is if
the driver is paraplegic (not a
> joke - we have some very talented
drivers in this category).
>
> Chuck Willis
>
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Gizmo
[mailto:kdmorg@comcast.net]
> Sent: Monday, October 27, 2003 2:30
PM
> To: T3S mailingl (E-mail)
> Subject: Team3S: A definitive
answer to my old question!
>
>
> Hi guys/ladies,
>
> Some months ago I asked about an AWD Automatic tranny to convert
from
> the FWD auto I now have. This is what I learned.
>
>
"Mitsubishi made 3 different auto 3000GT models. A N/A auto 2WD and a
>
AWD N/A auto. The third being the Turbo AWD model. All three would exist
>
as used imports in NZ. Mitsubishi also make a Diamante AWD with auto and
>
some Lancer Evo 7 GT-A with autos and turbo AWD." (thanks to Lloyd in
>
New Zealand!)
>
> It may be possible to find a Diamante in the
States with the proper
> tranny! Then all I need is the rear differential
assembly and drive
> shaft.
>
> As far as the suggestion that
I may need to do some frame work....Well,
> what is that driveline tunnel
for? Did they actually make a different
> frame for each model? That would
not be economical.
>
> Any thoughts on this?
>
>
Regards,
>
> Keith Morgavi (diseased old fart)
>
>
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
- ---
www.SpeedToys.com: Geoff Mohler
orders@speedtoys.comTeam3S/3Si.org
Vendor approved brake discounter; also,
parts for Toyota, Audi, BMW,
Mercedes, Porsche, SAAB, Volvo.
Where do you buy YOUR brakes? I can
help...asking is free! :)
"If its in stock, we have
it!"
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 19:10:02
-0500
From: "Ken Stanton" <
ken.c.stanton@usa.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RE- Oil squirters causing Spun bearings (was 1991 Turbo
engine needed)
Mohler!
What an insult to my intelligence! Do
you think I'm a bonehead or what?
I'm smart enough to understand what weight
of oils is about, so I'll be more
explicit this time.
MaxLife is the
-ONLY- oil that removes (masks) my oil pressure problem. Not
natural
5c/qt oil, not mid grade natural, no blends, no pure syns, and
not
Mobil1. 0w-30 or 10w-50 i've had them all.
Ken
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
To:
"Ken Stanton" <
ken.c.stanton@usa.net>
Cc:
"fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>; <
Team3S@team3s.com>
Sent: Monday,
October 27, 2003 4:06 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE- Oil squirters causing Spun
bearings (was 1991 Turbo
engine needed)
> Its thicker when
cold..simple.
>
> On Mon, 27 Oct 2003, Ken Stanton
wrote:
>
> > Yes, I am -sure- there is no oil pressure. The
light comes on, and even
if
> > the gauge and the light didn't work,
the car knocks like a sumnabitch.
I
> > rev it quick, its
gone. If this is so, any thougths as to why the
MaxLife
> >
oil would help sooooo much? With Mobil1 I -never- have oil pressure
on
warm
> > starts.
> >
> > Ken
>
>
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "fastmax"
<
fastmax@cox.net>
> > To:
"Ken Stanton" <
ken.c.stanton@usa.net>; <
Team3S@team3s.com>
> > Sent:
Monday, October 27, 2003 3:39 PM
> > Subject: Re: Team3S: RE- Oil
squirters causing Spun bearings (was 1991
Turbo
> > engine
needed)
> >
> >
> > > They did a poll on the
3SI.org site a while ago and that seemed to
show
> > 1st gen
cars
> > > were affected more --- I don't remember the results but
I'd guess the
> > number of people
> > > responding was
limited. To be statistically significant I'd think you
> > would need
several
> > > hundred examples and I know there was nowhere near
that.
> > >
> > > In the case of no pressure at start
I'd suspect the sending unit ---
does
> > the oil pressure
>
> > light come on also ???
> > >
> >
> Jim Berry
>
> > ====================================================
> > >
----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Ken Stanton" <
ken.c.stanton@usa.net>
> >
> To: <
Team3S@team3s.com>
> > >
Sent: Sunday, October 26, 2003 4:39 PM
> > > Subject: Re: Team3S:
RE- Oil squirters causing Spun bearings (was 1991
> > Turbo engine
needed)
> > >
> > >
> > > > It seems
everyone dances around this statement directly, but which
> >
motors
> > > > (years, models) are we suspecting exactly?
>
> > >
> > > > I have a '91 that I'm trying to diagnose a
low oil pressure issue
with.
> > > > It -occasionally-
starts up warm with no pressure, but after a
quick
> > rev
of
> > > > the engine pulls up to normal. No other
issues. Also, this problem
is
> > > > minimized/nearly
eliminated by using Valv MaxLife oil.
> > >
> >
>
> > >
> > >
> > > *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> > >
> >
> >
> > ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> >
>
> ---
>
www.SpeedToys.com: Geoff Mohler
orders@speedtoys.com>
Team3S/3Si.org Vendor approved brake discounter; also,
> parts for Toyota,
Audi, BMW, Mercedes, Porsche, SAAB, Volvo.
> Where do you buy YOUR
brakes? I can help...asking is free! :)
> "If its in stock, we
have it!"
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 18:22:37
-0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RE- Oil squirters causing Spun bearings (was 1991 Turbo
engine needed)
Im not insulting you..its still THAT simple.
It has
more resistance to flow when cold.
Who knows what they put in there..but
thats whats goin on.
On Mon, 27 Oct 2003, Ken Stanton wrote:
>
Mohler!
>
> What an insult to my intelligence! Do you think
I'm a bonehead or what?
> I'm smart enough to understand what weight of
oils is about, so I'll be more
> explicit this time.
>
>
MaxLife is the -ONLY- oil that removes (masks) my oil pressure problem.
Not
> natural 5c/qt oil, not mid grade natural, no blends, no pure syns,
and not
> Mobil1. 0w-30 or 10w-50 i've had them all.
>
> Ken
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Geoff Mohler"
<
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
>
To: "Ken Stanton" <
ken.c.stanton@usa.net>
> Cc:
"fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>; <
Team3S@team3s.com>
> Sent: Monday,
October 27, 2003 4:06 PM
> Subject: Re: Team3S: RE- Oil squirters causing
Spun bearings (was 1991 Turbo
> engine needed)
>
>
>
> Its thicker when cold..simple.
> >
> > On Mon, 27 Oct
2003, Ken Stanton wrote:
> >
> > > Yes, I am -sure- there
is no oil pressure. The light comes on, and even
> if
> >
> the gauge and the light didn't work, the car knocks like a
sumnabitch.
> I
> > > rev it quick, its gone. If this is
so, any thougths as to why the
> MaxLife
> > > oil would help
sooooo much? With Mobil1 I -never- have oil pressure on
>
warm
> > > starts.
> > >
> > > Ken
>
> >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > >
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
> > > To: "Ken
Stanton" <
ken.c.stanton@usa.net>; <
Team3S@team3s.com>
> > >
Sent: Monday, October 27, 2003 3:39 PM
> > > Subject: Re: Team3S:
RE- Oil squirters causing Spun bearings (was 1991
> Turbo
> >
> engine needed)
> > >
> > >
> > > >
They did a poll on the 3SI.org site a while ago and that seemed to
>
show
> > > 1st gen cars
> > > > were affected more
--- I don't remember the results but I'd guess the
> > > number of
people
> > > > responding was limited. To be statistically
significant I'd think you
> > > would need several
> > >
> hundred examples and I know there was nowhere near that.
> > >
>
> > > > In the case of no pressure at start I'd suspect the
sending unit ---
> does
> > > the oil pressure
> >
> > light come on also ???
> > > >
> > >
> Jim Berry
>
> > > ====================================================
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: "Ken
Stanton" <
ken.c.stanton@usa.net>
> >
> > To: <
Team3S@team3s.com>
> > > >
Sent: Sunday, October 26, 2003 4:39 PM
> > > > Subject: Re:
Team3S: RE- Oil squirters causing Spun bearings (was 1991
> > >
Turbo engine needed)
> > > >
> > > >
> >
> > > It seems everyone dances around this statement directly, but
which
> > > motors
> > > > > (years, models) are
we suspecting exactly?
> > > > >
> > > > > I
have a '91 that I'm trying to diagnose a low oil pressure issue
>
with.
> > > > > It -occasionally- starts up warm with no
pressure, but after a
> quick
> > > rev of
> > >
> > the engine pulls up to normal. No other issues. Also, this
problem
> is
> > > > > minimized/nearly eliminated by
using Valv MaxLife oil.
> > > >
> > > >
>
> > >
> > > >
> > > > ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> > >
> >
> > ---
> >
www.SpeedToys.com: Geoff Mohler
orders@speedtoys.com> >
Team3S/3Si.org Vendor approved brake discounter; also,
> > parts for
Toyota, Audi, BMW, Mercedes, Porsche, SAAB, Volvo.
> > Where do you buy
YOUR brakes? I can help...asking is free! :)
> > "If its in
stock, we have it!"
> >
> >
>
- ---
www.SpeedToys.com: Geoff Mohler
orders@speedtoys.comTeam3S/3Si.org
Vendor approved brake discounter; also,
parts for Toyota, Audi, BMW,
Mercedes, Porsche, SAAB, Volvo.
Where do you buy YOUR brakes? I can
help...asking is free! :)
"If its in stock, we have
it!"
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 16:43:27
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
RE- Oil squirters causing Spun bearings (was 1991 Turbo engine
needed)
I find it a little hard to believe that Maxlife is the only oil
that has the thermal
stability required --- he said warm starts, not
cold.
Jim
Berry
========================================
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
To:
"Ken Stanton" <
ken.c.stanton@usa.net>
Cc:
"fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>; <
Team3S@team3s.com>
Sent: Monday,
October 27, 2003 4:22 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE- Oil squirters causing Spun
bearings (was 1991 Turbo engine needed)
> Im not insulting
you..its still THAT simple.
>
> It has more resistance to flow when
cold.
>
> Who knows what they put in there..but thats whats goin
on.
>
> On Mon, 27 Oct 2003, Ken Stanton wrote:
>
>
> Mohler!
> >
> > What an insult to my intelligence!
Do you think I'm a bonehead or what?
> > I'm smart enough to understand
what weight of oils is about, so I'll be more
> > explicit this
time.
> >
> > MaxLife is the -ONLY- oil that removes (masks)
my oil pressure problem. Not
> > natural 5c/qt oil, not mid grade
natural, no blends, no pure syns, and not
> > Mobil1. 0w-30 or
10w-50 i've had them all.
> >
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V2
#285
***************************************
