Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Tuesday, October 21
2003 Volume 02 : Number 280
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Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2003 18:07:40 -0600
From: "Jim Floyd" <
jim_floyd7@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Engine hit the floor???
Pull the pan and be absolutely sure there is enough clearance for
the
oil pick up tube after that impact.
Jim
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2003 20:42:06 -0700
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Engine hit the floor???
No visable dent on the oil pan = fine. I assume that when the engine
fell,
it rolled a bit. Check all the oil lines and stuff going to the turbos
etc.
Tyson
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2003 22:55:54 -0500
From: "Mark Shaffer" <
mebmark@cablerocket.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Port and polish
Howdy friends, Mark from Pottsboro Texas, Well I'm takeing my time on the
92
ES, going to port and polish the whole system, Man I lined up the
gaskets
and there is a lot of meat to remove, this engine still has the
crosshatch
marks in the cylenders, I will use a dremil to remove the
heavy
obstructions, and the a wire with 300 grit wraped around it to get to
the
internal extrematies, should be allmost as good as extruding, at least
it
will be better than it is now, very rough on the inside. I know it will
take
some hours to do. Any sugestions I have missed? This car looks like
allmost
new, I'm going to put before and after pics on my yahoo if anyone
cares. BTW
I allmost sold her as is for 1500.00, I was very depressed and out
of work
at the time, I'm allmost a CNA now and hope to have a job tomorrow,
have a
interview at 8:00am in the morning. I love my car and really want to
keep
her!! She is so pretty! Mark, single dad of a wonderfull 4 year old
daughter
just strugleing to make it.
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2003 21:00:38 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: A
different question on rotors
The design consideration is not one of warping, it's a matter of physics.
You have to absorb the energy of the car you're stopping and temporarily store
it until some cooling process can remove the excess heat. Assuming that cost and
engineering were not an issue you could use very small rotors and pads with
liquid nitrogen cooling and probably make an effective system --- not
particularly practical though.
If you're not using an ablative material --- which is a one shot
proposition --- then you have to absorb the heat you've converted from the
kinetic energy of the vehicle. You'll melt small rotors if the energies are high
--- read heavy car and high speeds.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2003 21:10:55 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Port and polish
Mark
Keep in mind gasket matching is not the correct procedure --- the gasket
is
usually bigger than the port and you'll end up with a wide spot in the
flow. You
need to match the dimensions of the ports not the gasket. Rough is
not always
bad and you can screw up the flow patterns by incorrect
porting.
Do a search on the net to find the correct method --- a dremel will
probably
work but you could be at it for days. They make porting kits to be
used with
drill that work well and are realitively in expensive.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2003 00:18:17 -0500 (CDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Engine hit the floor???
Should be fine.
HOwever..the clearance betweenthe pan and the pickup is rather
thin..make
sure it wasnt pushed up any.
- ---
www.SpeedToys.com: Geoff
Mohler
orders@speedtoys.comTeam3S/3Si.org
Vendor approved brake discounter; also,
parts for Toyota, Audi, BMW,
Mercedes, Porsche, SAAB, Volvo.
Where do you buy YOUR brakes? I can
help...asking is free! :)
"If its in stock, we have it!"
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2003 10:29:10 -0400
From: "Bedrock" <
rbedrock@rcn.com>
Subject: Team3S: LED
Light in wingq
Has anybody tired to fix the light in the Stealth wing? Looks like water
got
into mine. Taking it apart now.
Bob
White/Red 91 RT/TT, Original at 141,000+
------------------------------
I don't understand why everyone seems happy to guess what is causing the
Tour/Sport blinking. Why not get the ECS trouble code and narrow down your
search to a singel corner or component?
Chuck Willis
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2003 10:36:05 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Blinking Tour and Sport Lights
Who is guessing? Several of us have been down this path time and time
again, so it's more than just a guess--it's an educated guess based on prior
experience. A great many of us have done the tracing and narrowing, and,
with few exceptions, the path always leads to the same conclusion--a short in
the harness. The ECS trouble code will never tell you there's a short in
the harness. It'll tell you you have a faulty strut, which you
don't.
------------------------------
Problem is that if the rotors have less mass, then their temperature will
rise higher assuming the same amount of heat is generated by the friction of
braking. If the temperature goes higher, certainly heat transfer increases, but
so do thermal effects on the rotor. Warping is caused by either uneven
heating or by uneven composition of the rotor that makes for uneven expansion
and contraction.
This is one of the arguments that Geoff hammers me about concerning cross
drilled rotors - he and many others believe that crossdriling decreases the mass
of the rotor and compromises the structural integrity. I think it assists
in air flow through the vents (what you called "baffles", and improves
cooling.
There is a similar argument against turning rotors unless they are very
warped. Cutting the rotor surface reduces its mass and total capacity for
heat. I like to have rotors faced off with a very light cut to decrease
surface non-uniformities, but many people do not ever turn their rotors.
I have been running cryoed, non-crossdrilled rotors (from Geoff) for a
couple of events for comparison.
Chuck Willis
"Would being able to cool off more faster extend or reduce the life of the
rotor if the metal were thinner?"
------------------------------
You ARE guessing. I have had the blinking light on 3 VR4s for different
reasons.
1. shaft of rear strut ROTATED 90 degrees so no electrical contact
for strut.
2. loose connection of harness connector to top of front
strut.
3. lose/dirty connector to rear strut.
4. failed
angular velocity sensor at steering wheel.
None of these were shorts in the harness.
You don't even know which corner to check unless you read the code.
Chuck Willis
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2003 10:52:26 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Blinking Tour and Sport Lights
Nope, not guessing. Hypothesizing. :-) I agree that the
ECS can help narrow down the location, but it won't tell you what's wrong.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2003 08:23:25 -0700
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Blinking Tour and Sport Lights
Well, speaking of, the blinking light thing started happening on my car
a
little while ago after an engine swap. I'm "guessing" that it has
something
to do with me leaning on the stupid caps while working on the car.
Since
there seems to be an error code generated, how do I get that code? I'm
sure
its a short in the harness, but an error code telling me which strut it
is,
would be helpful.
Tyson
------------------------------
Ancient post below: notice ALL the codes aren't given - there are
more in the service manual.
Chuck Willis
Okay, the three day weekend gave me a chance to look up how to read the
ECS
trouble codes with a voltmeter.
1. Find the datalink connector under the dash in the driver's
side.
A. 1ST GENERATION -
connect + to pin 3, - to pin 12. Pin 3 is the
third down on the left
side, before the double space. Pin 12 is the lower
right
corner.
B. 2ND GENERATION -
connect + to pin 3, - to pin 4 or 5. Pin 3 is
the third from the top
left side of the connector (on the long side of the
trapezoid), pin 4 and 5
are next to the right.
2. Turn the ignition on.
3. Look at the voltmeter. The code is repeated many
times. Seven (7)
short deflections is code =0, and means everything is
wonderful.
4. Other codes are: 1 long, 1 short = 11, G sensor
bad.
2 long, 1 short=21, steering angular velocity sensor
open
2 long, 4 short=24, speed sensor open
These codes don't disappear until ingnition switch is off, even if you
fix
the problem.
5. These codes disappear when you correct the
problem:
6 long, 1 short=61, Front
Right shock
6 long, 2 short=62,
Front left shock
6 long, 3
short=63, Rear right shock
6 long,
4 short=64, Rear Left shock
MFI trouble codes are read in a similar manner, but different pins.
FIRST GENERATION - connect + to pin 1, - to pin 12.
SECOND GENERATION -
Connect pin 1 to GROUND and watch the CHECK ENGINE light
flashes for same
sort of patterns - long flashes (1.5 sec) are tens digit,
short (0.5 sec)
flashes are ones digit. That gets you the same codes you
would read on
the Scan Tool.
You clear codes by disconnecting the battery for 10 seconds,
reconnecting
and idling the car for 15 min to make sure the codes don't
return.
Chuck
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2003 13:46:37 -0500
From: "William J. Crabtree" <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Pics of engine pull and new pics of pistons
Ok guys and gals,
I finally re-gained access to my
webspace and published a couple of quick
pages for your viewing
pleasure.
A few days ago, someone was asking about pulling the motor and
the
transmison together, here's proof that it can be done that way
(note: half of that sweat is because it's august, half nerves)
Also, I know that most of you that were interested probably already took
a
look at my piston pics. Here they are again, but a little better
organized
and formatted:
Enjoy,
- -Jeff C
------------------------------
I've tried fixing mine but I couldn't see any way to get into the part
with
the lights and board. Mine seems to be all molded together after it
comes
off the wing. If you find a way to get it apart or know of a way
I'd
appreciate knowing.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2003 08:51:50 -0700
From: "Damien" <
dabinch@actionsd.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Confirmed wheels
A while back someone posted a link to a website that listed wheels that
fit
our cars. If anyone knows what I'm talking about, could you please
fill me
in? Thanks.
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#280
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