Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth   Tuesday, October 21 2003   Volume 02 : Number 280
 
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Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2003 18:07:40 -0600
From: "Jim Floyd" <jim_floyd7@earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Engine hit the floor???
 
Pull the pan and be absolutely sure there is enough clearance for the
oil pick up tube after that impact.
 
Jim
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2003 20:42:06 -0700
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Engine hit the floor???
 
No visable dent on the oil pan = fine. I assume that when the engine fell,
it rolled a bit. Check all the oil lines and stuff going to the turbos etc.
 
Tyson
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2003 22:55:54 -0500
From: "Mark Shaffer" <mebmark@cablerocket.com>
Subject: Team3S: Port and polish
 
Howdy friends, Mark from Pottsboro Texas, Well I'm takeing my time on the 92
ES, going to port and polish the whole system, Man I lined up the gaskets
and there is a lot of meat to remove, this engine still has the crosshatch
marks in the cylenders, I will use a dremil to remove the heavy
obstructions, and the a wire with 300 grit wraped around it to get to the
internal extrematies, should be allmost as good as extruding, at least it
will be better than it is now, very rough on the inside. I know it will take
some hours to do. Any sugestions I have missed? This car looks like allmost
new, I'm going to put before and after pics on my yahoo if anyone cares. BTW
I allmost sold her as is for 1500.00, I was very depressed and out of work
at the time, I'm allmost a CNA now and hope to have a job tomorrow, have a
interview at 8:00am in the morning. I love my car and really want to keep
her!! She is so pretty! Mark, single dad of a wonderfull 4 year old daughter
just strugleing to make it.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2003 21:00:38 -0700
From: "fastmax" <fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: A different question on rotors
 
The design consideration is not one of warping, it's a matter of physics. You have to absorb the energy of the car you're stopping and temporarily store it until some cooling process can remove the excess heat. Assuming that cost and engineering were not an issue you could use very small rotors and pads with liquid nitrogen cooling and probably make an effective system --- not particularly practical though.
 
If you're not using an ablative material --- which is a one shot proposition --- then you have to absorb the heat you've converted from the kinetic energy of the vehicle. You'll melt small rotors if the energies are high --- read heavy car and high speeds.
 
        Jim Berry
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2003 21:10:55 -0700
From: "fastmax" <fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Port and polish
 
Mark
 
Keep in mind gasket matching is not the correct procedure --- the gasket is
usually bigger than the port and you'll end up with a wide spot in the flow. You
need to match the dimensions of the ports not the gasket. Rough is not always
bad and you can screw up the flow patterns by incorrect porting.
 
Do a search on the net to find the correct method --- a dremel will probably
work but you could be at it for days. They make porting kits to be used with
drill that work well and are realitively in expensive.
 
        Jim Berry
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2003 00:18:17 -0500 (CDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Engine hit the floor???
 
Should be fine.
 
HOwever..the clearance betweenthe pan and the pickup is rather thin..make
sure it wasnt pushed up any.
 
- ---
www.SpeedToys.com: Geoff Mohler orders@speedtoys.com
Team3S/3Si.org Vendor approved brake discounter; also,
parts for Toyota, Audi, BMW, Mercedes, Porsche, SAAB, Volvo.
Where do you buy YOUR brakes?  I can help...asking is free!  :)
"If its in stock, we have it!"
 
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Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2003 10:29:10 -0400
From: "Bedrock" <rbedrock@rcn.com>
Subject: Team3S: LED Light in wingq
 
Has anybody tired to fix the light in the Stealth wing? Looks like water got
into mine. Taking it apart now.
 
Bob
White/Red 91 RT/TT, Original at 141,000+
 
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Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2003 09:26:54 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Blinking Tour and Sport Lights
 
I don't understand why everyone seems happy to guess what is causing the Tour/Sport blinking.  Why not get the ECS trouble code and narrow down your search to a singel corner or component?
 
Chuck Willis
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2003 10:36:05 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Blinking Tour and Sport Lights
 
Who is guessing?  Several of us have been down this path time and time again, so it's more than just a guess--it's an educated guess based on prior experience.  A great many of us have done the tracing and narrowing, and, with few exceptions, the path always leads to the same conclusion--a short in the harness.  The ECS trouble code will never tell you there's a short in the harness.  It'll tell you you have a faulty strut, which you don't. 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2003 09:42:05 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: A different question on rotors
 
Problem is that if the rotors have less mass, then their temperature will rise higher assuming the same amount of heat is generated by the friction of braking. If the temperature goes higher, certainly heat transfer increases, but so do thermal effects on the rotor.  Warping is caused by either uneven heating or by uneven composition of the rotor that makes for uneven expansion and contraction.
 
This is one of the arguments that Geoff hammers me about concerning cross drilled rotors - he and many others believe that crossdriling decreases the mass of the rotor and compromises the structural integrity.  I think it assists in air flow through the vents (what you called "baffles", and improves cooling.
 
There is a similar argument against turning rotors unless they are very warped.  Cutting the rotor surface reduces its mass and total capacity for heat.  I like to have rotors faced off with a very light cut to decrease surface non-uniformities, but many people do not ever turn their rotors.
 
I have been running cryoed, non-crossdrilled rotors (from Geoff) for a couple of events for comparison.
 
Chuck Willis
 
"Would being able to cool off more faster extend or reduce the life of the rotor if the metal were thinner?" 
 
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Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2003 09:49:27 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Blinking Tour and Sport Lights
 
You ARE guessing. I have had the blinking light on 3 VR4s for different reasons.
 
1.  shaft of rear strut ROTATED 90 degrees so no electrical contact for strut.
2.  loose connection of harness connector to top of front strut.
3.  lose/dirty connector to rear strut.
4.  failed angular velocity sensor at steering wheel.
 
None of these were shorts in the harness.
 
You don't even know which corner to check unless you read the code.
 
Chuck Willis
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2003 10:52:26 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Blinking Tour and Sport Lights
 
Nope, not guessing.  Hypothesizing.  :-)  I agree that the ECS can help narrow down the location, but it won't tell you what's wrong.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2003 08:23:25 -0700
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Blinking Tour and Sport Lights
 
Well, speaking of, the blinking light thing started happening on my car a
little while ago after an engine swap. I'm "guessing" that it has something
to do with me leaning on the stupid caps while working on the car. Since
there seems to be an error code generated, how do I get that code? I'm sure
its a short in the harness, but an error code telling me which strut it is,
would be helpful.
 
Tyson
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2003 10:26:33 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Blinking Tour and Sport Lights
 
Ancient post below:  notice ALL the codes aren't given - there are more in the service manual.
 
Chuck Willis
 
Okay, the three day weekend gave me a chance to look up how to read the ECS
trouble codes with a voltmeter.
 
1.  Find the datalink connector under the dash in the driver's side.
        A.  1ST GENERATION - connect + to pin 3, - to pin 12.  Pin 3 is the
third down on the left side, before the double space. Pin 12 is the lower
right corner.
        B.  2ND GENERATION - connect + to pin 3, - to pin 4 or 5.  Pin 3 is
the third from the top left side of the connector (on the long side of the
trapezoid), pin 4 and 5 are next to the right.
 
2.  Turn the ignition on.
 
3.  Look at the voltmeter.  The code is repeated many times.  Seven (7)
short deflections is code =0, and means everything is wonderful.
 
4.  Other codes are:  1 long, 1 short = 11, G sensor bad.
                2 long, 1 short=21, steering angular velocity sensor open
                2 long, 4 short=24, speed sensor open
 
These codes don't disappear until ingnition switch is off, even if you fix
the problem.
 
5.  These codes disappear when you correct the problem:
        6 long, 1 short=61, Front Right shock
        6 long, 2 short=62, Front left shock
        6 long, 3 short=63, Rear right shock
        6 long, 4 short=64, Rear Left shock
 
MFI trouble codes are read in a similar manner, but different pins.
 
FIRST GENERATION - connect + to pin 1, - to pin 12.
SECOND GENERATION - Connect pin 1 to GROUND and watch the CHECK ENGINE light
flashes for same sort of patterns - long flashes (1.5 sec) are tens digit,
short (0.5 sec) flashes are ones digit.  That gets you the same codes you
would read on the Scan Tool.
 
You clear codes by disconnecting the battery for 10 seconds, reconnecting
and idling the car for 15 min to make sure the codes don't return.
 
Chuck
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2003 13:46:37 -0500
From: "William J. Crabtree" <wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject: Team3S: Pics of engine pull and new pics of pistons
 
Ok guys and gals,
 
        I finally re-gained access to my webspace and published a couple of quick
pages for your viewing pleasure.
 
A few days ago, someone was asking about pulling the motor and the
transmison together, here's proof that it can be done that way
 
http://home.earthlink.net/~wjcrabtree/id3.html
 
(note: half of that sweat is because it's august, half nerves)
 
Also, I know that most of you that were interested probably already took a
look at my piston pics.  Here they are again, but a little better organized
and formatted:
 
http://home.earthlink.net/~wjcrabtree/index.html
 
Enjoy,
 
- -Jeff C
 
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Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2003 14:30:36 -0500
From: "brock" <brockgamble@sio.midco.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: LED Light in wingq
 
I've tried fixing mine but I couldn't see any way to get into the part with
the lights and board. Mine seems to be all molded together after it comes
off the wing. If you find a way to get it apart or know of a way I'd
appreciate knowing.
 
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Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2003 08:51:50 -0700
From: "Damien" <dabinch@actionsd.com>
Subject: Team3S: Confirmed wheels
 
A while back someone posted a link to a website that listed wheels that fit
our cars.  If anyone knows what I'm talking about, could you please fill me
in?  Thanks.
 
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2 #280
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