Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Sunday, October 19
2003 Volume 02 : Number 279
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Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2003 07:43:47 -0700
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: Team3S:
10W40 in the tranny?! (WAS Manual Tranny Fluid)
What's this about using 10W40 in the tranny?! I have never heard of
that...
Obviously benefits are that you get a thinner oil so it does not take
as
long to get around. (My tranny shifts rough first few blocks) What are
the
downsides?
Tyson
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Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2003 09:43:48 -0700
From: "Grd4Spd Racing" <
grd4spdracing@cox.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Where to buy...
hello T3S,
it was brought to my attention of an error(s) on our site....here is
the
corrected link(s), thanks!
regards,
terry
"If it doesn't make you go fast, we don't sell it"
Grd4Spd Racing -
www.grd4spd.com
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Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2003 13:19:55 -0500
From: Christian Longtin <
Chriscooll@videotron.ca>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Manual Tranny Fluid
I don't know abou the local stores in your area, but I can tell
you it
was pretty easy to order it online for me.
Christian Longtin
92 3000gt vr-4
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Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2003 20:30:51 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 10W40 in the tranny?!
Refer to the viscosity comparison chart at the url below to see that 40W
engine oil is similar in viscosity to 90W gear oil.
The 10W40 engine would only be "thinner" than 85W/90W gear oil when it is
cold.
Jim Rowe at Metric Mechanic has in the past recommended Amsoil 10W-40 fully
synthetic engine oil for Getrag Transaxles. I don't know Jim Rowe so I don't how
much confidence we should put in his recommendation. We can probably be sure
that engine oil is not going to harm the "yellow metal" (soft synchro parts).
The downside or 10W40 engine oil? Perhaps not sufficent friction for quick
engagement of the synchronizers? I really don't know. I have Pennzoil
Synchromesh in my Getrag 5-spd and I find the shifting *noticebly* improved to
when I had Red Line in there previously.
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Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2003 00:22:25 +0000
From:
wpluim@comcast.netSubject: Team3S: A
different question on rotors
This is sort of a general question on cars. What kinds of pressure do
brake rotors see? I assume that they are as thick as they are due to the
need to disipate heat, and not to resist bending due to the pressure. Is
this a correct assumption? And if heat were not an issue, how thick would
they have to be?
Will
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Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2003 17:29:18 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: A
different question on rotors
Rotors see equal pressure from each side so thickness is really not an
issue, it's
a clamping force. Motorcycle brakes are a few tenths thick. You
may need a half inch
to stop a 4000 pound car from 80 mph once --- if you
want to repeat the process
you'd better have good cooling or more mass. Drag
cars have small brakes [ read this
as low mass ] just because they only have
to stop the car from speed once per race.
Jim Berry
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Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2003 00:52:20 +0000
From:
wpluim@comcast.netSubject: Re: Team3S:
A different question on rotors
I notice that a lot of rotors are made up of what looks like two plates
with a baffled open area inbetween them. So they must be resisting bending
enough to avoid being clamped together, right? That's probably more a
function of the baffling to hold teh plates apart, but assuming those were not
there, how thick do you need to not bend?
Will
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Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2003 19:53:43 -0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: A different question on rotors
I have seen solid rear rotors on certain disk brake cars that
appeared
no thicker than 1/2"
- -Cody
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Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2003 19:43:57 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: A
different question on rotors
The baffling, or air space is for cooling only --- I don't know what the
minimun is for
disk thickness with cooling vanes but assuming it only needs
to stop once you could
probably get by with 1/10 th on each friction surface
with cooling vanes spaced an
inch apart or so apart and 1/3 of an inch
thick.
what is the object of the question ??? Are you planing on redesigning your
brakes.
Willwood has a varied selection of oddball rotors for you to look at.
Jim Berry
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Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2003 03:38:29 +0000
From:
wpluim@comcast.netSubject: Re: Team3S:
A different question on rotors
The purpose was really more of a thought exercise than anything else.
I am curious how brakes would be designed if it were not a matter of warping due
to heating and cooling, i.e. if heat were not an issue. It seems the
thickness of the rotors seem to be pretty consistent within a small
degree. The process led me to think that if you till wanted to use the two
plate method, how much is enough to avoid clamping the plates together under
hard braking conditions. I was also thinking about bleeding off the
heat. Is it a good idea to bleed off the energy very quickly, or does that
contribute to the warping, or even make it worse? Or is it that the rotors
are heated, cool perhaps only a little, and the are heated again that is the
main mechanism for warp? Would being able to cool off more faster extend
or reduce the life of the rotor if the metal were thinner? Really I've
been reading the posts on brakes and seem to be hearing some things that
conflict, at least to me, and these are the questions that I've come up
with.
Will
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Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2003 19:51:06 -0400
From: "Vedran" <
1994TT@comcast.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Engine hit the floor???
This morning we were taking the engine off of the engine stand. We
had it
on the hoist so we lower it to about 2 in from the garage floor.
As we did
that one of the safety pins that hold the long "legs" of the hoist
came out
and the engine hit the floor from height of about 1 1/2 in.
The oil pan did
not even get scratched or dented, no visible damages. My
engine just got
rebuilt with custom forged pistons and valve job.
Should I be concerned
about anything??? I assume that the engine should
be able to resist such an
impact.
Thanks a lot
VEt 94 TT
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#279
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