Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Friday, October 17
2003 Volume 02 : Number 277
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 08:52:52 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Axle boots
Is the Pep Boys boot a solid boot or a split boot? Don't, under any
circumstances, use a split boot. You'll be doing the job again in 6
months.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 08:54:53 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Timeing belt tensioner
There shouldn't be a problem reusing the belt and tensioner. Make
sure you re-install the belt so that it turns in the same direction as when you
took it off.
------------------------------
I just replaced both of my boots on my 92 Stealth (sohc)one week ago and
got
the inside and outside boot for $28.00 from NAPA. It was a very easy
job,
took only about 1 1/2 hous or less.
Bryan Goldman
92 (sohc) Stealth
------------------------------
They were solid with every replacement part required, including
grease.
------------------------------
I removed the tire, got my neighbor to apply the brakes, so my
spindle
didn't move and I didn't put any stress on the tranny, removed the
cotter
key & spindle nut, marked the adjusting bolt on the bottom of the
strut so I
could keep my alignment, remove both strut bolts (do not remove
your tie-rod
end), push your shaft as far in as possible and you will be able
to get your
drive shaft out without any problem, (make sure you clean out all
the old
grease). The only difficult part was putting the clamp on the inside
boot,
do to the fact the drive shaft has to be in place and there isn't much
room,
other that that it was very easy. The whole job took about 1 1/2
hours.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Starkey, Jr., Joseph
[mailto:starkeyje@bipc.com]
Sent: Thursday, October 16, 2003 9:15 AM
For future reference, how did you get the outer CV joint off to replace
the
boot?
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 08:53:51 -0500
From: tigertrentham <
tigertrentham@4state.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Blinking Tour and Sport Lights
Hey guys, I got a blinking Tour and Sport lights on the lower left of
the instrument panel. Doesn't matter if the ECS button is in or
out.
I got 160,000 miles on my '93 Pearl TT Stealth, and wondering if
the
shocks are worn out and that is a signal, or is it Poltergeists a
little early for Halloween? Blinks on and off at approximately one
second intervals. Some slight shudders on braking, gonna have that
checked out, maybe need to machine the discs, but nothing else I can
think of. Car runs like new, 20 mpg around town, better on
highway.
SRS light is on, has been for a long time, they say the air
bag is bad,
and want an indecent sum to replace it. Does it have to be
replaced,
or is there some simpler less expensive fix for the airbag SRS
light?
Would appreciate some advice.
Poor Old Poop from Neosho
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 09:18:52 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: 3S-Racers:
Re: Team3S: Axle boots
I'm continuing my quest and here's some more info --- It appears that the
split
boot may be a thing of the past. I mentioned it to a few suppliers and
they said
they don't handle them.
After a little consideration I'm thinking of putting in rebuilt axles ---
pricing is going
to be about $80 each [ I'm waiting for conformation ].
At $80 each for axles it seems
like a no brainer over the boots --- $120 per
side from Satan or about $30 from a
parts house.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 11:49:28 -0500
From: "William J. Crabtree" <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: New Venolia Forged Pistons
I uploaded some pics of my new pistons if anybody is interested.
These are reduces sized images for easy viewing. If anybody is
interested
in the FULL size image (2560x1920...and about 3-400K file size),
please
contact me directly and I'll be glad to mail you the full size
file(s).
For those interested, I took these photos with a Sony Dsc F717 in one of
our
TV studios. The F717 has AMAZING macro capabilities (see file
titled: Name
stamp inside closeup.jpg)
These are the same pistons that Jeff Lucius has in his car. I based
my
choice on Jeff's recommendation, and on price (see the scan of my
invoice:
Xinvoice.jpg). These pistons, without rings, cost me less than
HALF off
what the Ross pistons listed on Dynamic's and 3SX's websites would
have
cost. I ordered them directly from Venolia (
www.venolia.com Ask
for
"Dale"). Venolia was able to use the exact same build specs from
Jeff L's
pistons by referencing job number 117853.
Won't be long now........
- -Jeff Crabtree
'91 R/T TT
(3SI
#0499)
St. Louis, MO
------------------------------
Can anyone tell me why my 94 3k sl smokes after it sits at a light , It
also
puffs smoke when first cranked. I've thought about it being valve
guide
seals but that would happen at a light would it? Many thanks for
the help
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 10:00:56 -0700
From: "Rivenburg, Pete" <
privenburg@firstam.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Smoke after idle
My 93 SL does the exact same thing at 175K miles, the older the oil the
more
it smokes after prolonged idle. I am assuming from the experience with
other
engines I have rebuilt that it IS the valve seals. I have built
cylinder
pressurizing rigs and replaced the seals with the heads still on the
engine
in several cars and cured the bulk of the smoking. Don't think I'm
going to
bother with this one, just find me a JDM I think.
Pete Rivenburg
------------------------------
You have to pull out the entire shaft to change the outer boot, but if
your
going through the trouble to replace the outer boot, more than likely
you
would need an inner boot too. You will see what I'm talking about, if you
go
cheap and only do the outer boot you would regret it.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 17:01:41 -0500
From: "Jesse Rink" <
jrink-3si@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Blinking Tour and Sport Lights
Chances are the only reason the tour/sport like is flashing is because
one
of the wires on your front strut towers is broken. Common
occurance.
Easiest way to fix it is to pull off the connector and do a ohm
test on the
wires to see which one is broken and fix it. Cheap fix,
doesn't cost you
more than time. If you're not good with wiring, you
can always buy the
connector harness from Mitsu for around $60 or so I
believe.
Jesse Rink
Eagle, WI
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 18:10:53 -0400
From: "Vedran" <
1994TT@comcast.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Oil temperature gauge?????
Today I bought an oil temperature gauge. I will put it into the oil
pan. I
am hoping to get more accurate reading of the engine temperature
just
because I have GRaddy boost controller and the AFC II fuel system.
I am
concerned about the air fuel mixture and the AFC II settings; because
I
think that it's really easy to run the engine lean. Any thoughts on
my oil
temp gauge. Anybody has any suggestions on the AFC II settings.
Should I be
concerned?
PS. I do have the boost gauge and the fuel ration
gauge.
Thanks a lot
Vet
94 TT
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 18:45:56 -0400
From: <
chadandcarol@charter.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Blinking Tour and Sport Lights
When the tour/sport light is flasshing, would it be
possible you need a
whole new strut cover? Does the strut
cover come with the
wiring?
The same thing is happening with my 91' Stealth and I knew
it had
something to do with the wiring and strut cover,
but I guess if someone
answers this I will know exactly
what to do. I might check the wires
before spending the
money.
Also, since I got the car the rear defrost/ECS switch has
been bad, I
replaced it yesterday and when I hit the ECS
button, it doesn't do
anything. I haven't tried it while
the car was moving though.
Isn't it supposed to adjust my
struts?
thanks,
Carol Decker
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 16:55:46 -0600
From: Chip Greenberg <
chipg@pvtnetworks.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Blinking Tour and Sport Lights
I had this happen to my 92 stealth. I had a broken wire on one of the
front strut covers. Was a bit sticky to pull it off after 8 years!
Mine cost me $90 at the local dealer, hope you do better
On Thursday,
October 16, 2003, at 04:01 PM, Jesse Rink wrote:
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 19:20:49 -0500
From: "Richard Fennell" <
realmstl@charter.net>
Subject: Fw:
Team3S: New Venolia Forged Pistons
Those are some pretty thin wrist pins.
I just rebuilt a 2.6l turbo motor with Wiseco pistons and got their
light
weight pins. They were probably twice the wall thickness of
yours.
Look nice.
Rich
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 19:36:01 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
From: William Jeffrey
Crabtree <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: New Venolia Forged Pistons
I should have taken a shot down the inside of the wrist pin. The
inside is tapered at both ends(maybe to save a little weight?). At any
rate, the pin is easily double the thickness by the time you get about 2/3
of an inch into the pin.
- -Jeff C.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 17:44:33 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
New Venolia Forged Pistons
I got the tool steel, tapered pins with my Venolia pistons also.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Ok, I've made the decision to buy a pair of front Porterfield
rotors
with R4S pads. Where's the best place to make the
purchase?
Thanks!
- - Dan
'95VR4
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 18:14:14 -0700
From: "Grd4Spd Racing" <
grd4spdracing@cox.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Where to buy...
we offer porterfield pads at pretty good prices.....
our PriceBeaterZ program....
regards,
terry
"If it doesn't make you go fast, we don't sell it"
Grd4Spd Racing -
www.grd4spd.com
------------------------------
The add says the R4S dust less than stock - what bull shit !
I'm on my
third set and they dust like hell.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 22:23:07 -0700
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Where to buy...
I've gotta second that. The R4S pads may not dust like a race pad,
but
the put out way more dust than stock pads. WAY more.
- - Brian
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2003 03:12:34 -0700
From: "Grd4Spd Racing" <
grd4spdracing@cox.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Where to buy...
> Ok, I've made the decision to buy a pair of front Porterfield
rotors
> with R4S pads.
sorry, i did forgot to mention that the Porterfield rotors are nice but
they
are not anodized so you will see the unslightly rust on the hub, not so
with
the powerstop or powerslot rotors, however we offer all three types if
you
prefer one over the other.
regards,
terry
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2003 03:53:04 -0700
From: "Grd4Spd Racing" <
grd4spdracing@cox.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rotors
> I can't understand why
> these cars go through front breaks and
rotors like water.
most of the braking is done by the front brakes.
> My last front set was also Dealer/Mitsu stock and the pads
>
cracked, and the rotors were also warped,
overheating the brakes.
sounds like what is need is better "bigger" brakes and/or less
braking
effort overall.
regards,
terry
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2003 04:10:16 -0700
From: "Grd4Spd Racing" <
grd4spdracing@cox.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rotors
> Had a shimmy in the front end on breaking at high speeds.
warped rotors, but you now know that :)
> They're telling me the rotors don't have enough surface
> to
mill the warps out. Guess I need a new set.
correct.
> This is my daily driver and I'll tell you I thought I was pretty easy
on
> the car, although these rotors are only 2 years old (maybe 20k
miles!).
the car may need better brakes, or one needs to brake less.
also setting the ebrake after a heavy braking session
can/may/will
contribute to warped rotors.
> So, either they were really cheap rotors or I'm more of a wild man
than
> I imagined.
they could be cheap, or you could brake less or not set the
brake
immediately following a session.
> What are the current recommendations for legitimate street use?
slotted, crossdrilled, OEM rotors are an option.
> I want durability!
you might consider cyrotreating them to help with durability.
> I don't want to have to do this again in 12 months, but I
>
don't want to spend a fortune for stuff I don't really need (cryo?
>
slotted?).
brake less?
> I guess while I'm at it I should ask for pad recommendations
>
too since I might as well do it all at once.
the porterfield R4S pads are an excellent choice for daily driving with
the
occasional weekend fun twisty session tossed in.
regards,
terry
"If it doesn't make you go fast, we don't sell it"
Grd4Spd Racing -
www.grd4spd.com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2003 09:20:25 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Blinking Tour and Sport Lights
Carol, you wont notice anything while the car is not moving. The only
thing the ECS switch does is lock the struts down into their stiffest
setting. The car doesn't lower or move or anything like that. As
long as the light switches from tour to sport, the struts are *probably* working
right. If things were not working right, you'd get the blinking
"tour/sport" combination. However, if you want to check for sure, put your
ear close to the top of each strut and have someone work the switch. You
should hear a very short "zip" sound.
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#277
***************************************