Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Thursday, October 16 2003 Volume
02 : Number 276
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 02:45:02 -0400
From: "Omar Malik" <
ojm@iname.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: So my
JDM got here today...
I don't see why you say that. It shouldn't be different. Over here, we
do
non turbo to twin turbo engine implants all the time, retaining the
FWD
tranny. Hell even Hans over at groundzero has implanted a non turbo motor
in
one of his 92 stealth AWD cars. The only differences I've seen are
the
flywheel shields and tranny stays. That and the TT cranks have a set pin
in
them to line up with the flywheel, the Non turbo cranks do not. Other
then
that the tranny should bolt right up to the block.
The flywheel would be different too obviously.
Omar
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 10:35:51 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Dangerous datalog results!
>> ... and the timing IS set at 5 degrees BTDC, so at
>>
least my problem isn't from a slipped belt or anything...
Whoooa! The 5º BTDC refers to the basic ignition timing advance. The timing
*belt* has to do with *valve* timing. Don't confuse the two. Also, the ignition
timing mark is on the pulley not the belt.
If you can, please have someone check the actual ign timing advance (may
need a dial-back type light) and compare it to the TMO reported value. At warm
idle is fine.
>> I usually get .94 - .96 V, when logging in the past...
>> Since there is no way of *knowing* my A/F ratio, it's
not
>> something I can "shoot for", is it(?). ;-)
Yes it is. I (we) have had this discussion on here this summer. While the
voltage produced by the factory O2 sensors cannot be accurately related to a
specific A/F, the values do represent an A/F. You can be assured that 0.94 to
0.96 volts represents the same range of A/F on your engine over a limited time
(say a few years) and when the O2 sensors are the same temperature. What you
don't know is what that particular A/F range is unless you check it with a
wideband sensor.
But if you have found in the past that 0.94-0.96 volts produces no knock or
some other desirable engine operating condition, and you have not changed your
engine alot, then you can count on the 0.94-0.96 range to work for you
again.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 07:28:15 -0400
From: "The Furmans" <
L.Furman1@cox.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Dangerous datalog results!
I would have to take US Air and of course go business class :), as
for
aiming for that 11.5:1 yu would want to do that on a dyno Jet with
the
wideband O2, unless you know someone with a portable wideband and
the
logging package *cough cough Geoff cough cough*
With that many miles on the sensors (lead gad decreases their
service
life immensely), you can aim for the .94-.96 range but they may
not
respond that quickly.....
Good luck and if you have any questions just call me at 1 800 767
1000
EXT 7-4066 (my work number I will be there from 8:30 EST to 5:30
or
6:00 EST)
Russ F
CT
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 09:06:59 -0400
From: "Williams, Tommy F" <
WilliamsTF@bernstein.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Leaking Tranny Question.....
I have a very slow leak (a drop or 2 a day)from the very bottom of by
6
speed tranny at the seam where the housing and case bolt up. Mitsu
dealer
says no repair spec for this and I will have to replace tranny.
The
transmission is in perfect working order to replacing is out of
the
question. Does anyone have other suggestions for getting rid of the
leak. I
suspect it could be resealed but who could you trust to perform such
a task?
Has anyone else had to deal with a similar problem? and if so what was
your
solution?
Please advise
Tom
'96 VR-4
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 09:41:16 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Leaking Tranny Question.....
Chock up another dealer giving wrong info. Per the shop manual,
replacing the seals is the only thing that CAN be repaired per dealer
spec. Every other problem requires replacement of the tranny. At
least that's true with my 5 speed.
Anyway, the leaky seal is probably the output shaft to the transfer
case. It's a $2 part and you can probably change it without removing the
tranny. Again, assuming the 6 speed is basically the same as the 5.
<<<Mitsu dealer says no repair spec for this and I will have to
replace tranny. The
transmission is in perfect working order to
replacing is out of the
question. Does anyone have other suggestions
for getting rid of the leak. I
suspect it could be resealed but who could you
trust to perform such a task?>>>
------------------------------
Kormex informs me that the bellhousing has to come off to replace the
seal,
which means the tranny has to come out. I am taking out my brand new
Kormex
for that very reason.
Rich/leaky old poop
------------------------------
First of all, find out what's leaking: the transfer case or the
tranny.
Do this by:
1. Clean everything off down there. Steam clean it, crawl under
there
with cleaner and a rag, and otherwise make it all sparkly.
2. Inject dye into the transfer case (because it is subject to
recall),
wait for the drip to reappear, and check it with a UV light. If
it's
leaking, go back to the dealer and demand a new xfer case under
the
recall. If not...
3. Inject dye into the transmission, wait for the drip to reappear,
and
check it with the UV light. Put it up on a lift, and look to see if it
is
(a) running down from the top or (b) not.
If it's running down from the top, it is probably the vent. Your
tranny
might have gotten overfilled. Pray that is the problem.
If it's not coming from the top, it's coming from inside, and there
are
two likely places it can come from: the output shaft seal or the
input
shaft seal.
4. Drop the downpipe and transfer case (a 10 minute job on a rack,
20
minutes on jackstands. I've been doing that a LOT lately). This
exposes
the tranny and flywheel for your inspection.
5. Shine the UV lamp at the output shaft seal. If you see a ton of
leaky
fluid, there's your culprit. If not, it MAY be the input shaft, which
is
out of sight behind the flywheel.
To see a photo of the tranny on page 11. When you
drop the xfer case,
you can see the big fat output shaft in the dead
center of the tranny. As you
can see, if either shaft seal is leaking,
fluid will gather at the bottom of
the case, and drip out.
If your seals are leaking, they can be replaced. You gotta pull
the
tranny to do it, though. Ouch! Still, it is tons cheaper than buying
a
replacement tranny.
Me, I'd live with 1-2 drops a day. Alas, mine leaves puddles, so I am
in
the process of pulling the brand new Kormex to put seals in it.
Rich/leaky old poop
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 08:56:57 -0700
From: "Guy, Michael (CS)" <
michael.guy@ngc.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Leaking Tranny Question.....
Just for curiousity purposes, before you follow Rich's ending of idea
of
running with it, check and see if you are loosing more when you drive it.
I
read an e-mail from a member here a while back, while he was only
loosing
what appeared to be a quarter size spot every couple of days, he was
leaking
more when the car was moving. Ending result was a blown transmission
because
of no tranny fluid. If I can find it, I'll forward it on to you.
Might be
something to take into consideration.
Just my two cents here.
Mike Guy
92 Stealth SOHC
------------------------------
The dye check will show that. If it's blowing out, he'll see evidence
all
over the bottom of the car.
Rich/shiftless old poop
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 16:18:26 -0700
From: "MM2 Phillips, J" <
phillipsj@duluth.navy.mil>
Subject:
Team3S: Remove engine-tranny together?
is it necisary to remover the tranny from the engine before pulling
the
engine out? or can it all come out in one piece? I have
everything
disconnected from the engine and tranny and i'm getting ready to
pull the
engine on wendsday I just want to make sure it will all come out in
one
piece... any tips / tricks / past experiance please let me know.
this is
the first time i have pulled an engine.
vr,
ryan phillips
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 13:21:20 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Leaking Tranny Question.....
Might be true for the 6sp, but not for the 5 sp. The bellhousing
needs to come off for the input shaft (the one that goes into the clutch disk),
but not the shaft that goes into the transfer case. I've done mine twice
before, and never removed it. It might, however, be different with the 6
sp.
------------------------------
Sorry to beat a well hashed subject, but there's nothing like needing
a
pair to make you sit up and take notice of all the postings on the
topic
that I've deleted over the years.
Had a shimmy in the front end on breaking at high speeds.
They're
telling me the rotors don't have enough surface to mill the warps
out.
Guess I need a new set.
This is my daily driver and I'll tell you I thought I was pretty easy
on
the car, although these rotors are only 2 years old (maybe 20k
miles!).
So, either they were really cheap rotors or I'm more of a wild man
than
I imagined.
What are the current recommendations for legitimate street use? I
want
durability! I don't want to have to do this again in 12 months,
but I
don't want to spend a fortune for stuff I don't really need
(cryo?
slotted?). I guess while I'm at it I should ask for pad
recommendations
too since I might as well do it all at once.
Thanks in advance!
- - Dan
'95 VR4
------------------------------
I can only say that I am in the same boat as you after only 14K
miles. I am
getting a high speed vibration/shimmy/ when breaking.
My pads are Mitsu
stock, and my rotors are also stock. The rotors are
108.00 ish per rotor
and the pads are about 70.00 ish for the front. I
can't understand why
these cars go through front breaks and rotors like
water. My last front set
was also Dealer/Mitsu stock and the pads
cracked, and the rotors were also
warped, the guy doing my break job said
forget about the keeping the rotors
because if he cut' them I would only get
3000 miles until I needed another
new set. Like you I don't break
excessively and downshift when possible.
So if anyone knows of a reasonably
priced set of rotors that will hold up
and disperse heat better that the
stock for a daily driver I'm all for them.
Eugene
92' DOHC NT
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 13:36:29 -0700
From: "Ann Koch" <
akoch@sonic.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Leaking Tranny Question.....
I had my '93 TT in for some service at a transmission shop (the one
where
the tranny was replaced 75K ago) and was told the transfer case was
leaking.
The car had been through the recall program at Dodge in January, 3K
ago, and
had passed. When I told Dodge about the new problem, they
wanted to see the
car, but said that they might need to implement "Step 2" of
the recall
procedure. This might require them to order and install a
new transfer
case, according to them. When the original recall
inspection had been done,
Dodge had not yet received any instructions asto
how the inspection was to
be done. I suspect that nothing was done, and
the car was just returned to
me.
Just recently, someone posted a description of the tecnical details of
the
recall, but I can't find it now (I didn't need it when it was posted,
of
course). Could that person please re-post the details so I can
compare them
to what Dodge said they did in January? Thanks, and I'll
let everyone know
how the "Second Phase" of the recall works.--Ann
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 14:26:41 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Remove engine-tranny together?
Most installers *prefer* to remove/replace the engine-tranny
together. But 3S
owners have done it both ways. It's just "known"
to most folks that you'll
have an easier time of it if you reassemble first,
then install them together.
Good luck!
Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 14:57:17 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S: Axle
boots
After returning from good old Pahrump [ Spring Mountain Motorsport park
]
I found great gooey gobs of greasy grimy axle boot guts spread around
the
bottom of my otherwise pristine car. It was of course the dreaded split
boot.
I see the dealer lists a repair kit --- has anyone ordered a boot kit
from the
dealer or other source and fourn them to be worthwhile.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 15:19:28 -0700
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Remove engine-tranny together?
I have done this a few times now. You most certainly want to put the
engine
and tranny in together, its MUCH easier. The other thing (this is for
when
you are putting everything back) is the order in which to connect
your
mounts. Every time I have done it, it has required a crowbar and a lot
of
playing around to get all 4 of the mounts to line up. Best combination
I
have found was to do Rear, Front, Pass, Driver - in that order.
Good luck,
Tyson
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 15:55:12 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Axle boots
additional info --- after a little snooping I find the dealer wants about
$65 per
boot [ 4 X $65 = $240 for you mathematically impaired ] or good
old Pep
Boys at $15 each, which of course seems a more reasonable
price.
Comments anyone !!!!!
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 18:47:50 -0500
From: "Mark Shaffer" <
mebmark@cablerocket.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Timeing belt tensioner
Hi friends! It's been awhile for me, my 92 stealth ES has been sitting
up
for a while since the timeing belt tensioner bolt came loose, I got
lucky,
took the heads off today and only the intake valves were bent, didn't
even
scar the pistons to speak of! Well my question is, is it ok to use the
same
tensioner after the plunger has fully extended, I put it in a vice
and
compressed it back in and put a pin in it to hold it till I get it all
back
together and retimed, it is a fairly new tensioner, and also the
timeing
belt looks fine, will it be ok to use it, both tensioner and belt
only have
about 4000 miles on them. TIA, Mark, 92 blue stealth ES
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 18:49:55 -0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Timeing belt tensioner
According to the service manuals, it is OK to reuse the tensioner...
I
wouldn't chance it... It's cheap insurance ($35-$50 iirc), and
will
prevent a mishap like that in the future...
- -Cody
------------------------------
Rotors is only one part of the equation. The other part is the pads. Pads
transfer their friction material onto the rotors and rub against it. If the
pad is junk then it would transfer the material onto the rotor surface
unevenly, which would result in rotor thickness variation and all the nasty
vibrations.
I could recommend Axxis Ultimate and Carbotech Bobcat pads for street use.
They are both excellent pads. I use them myself and I keep finding more and
more praise for them around the internet.
I have PowerSlot rotors in stock for a 1st gen TT and coming soon for the
NA's (no 2nd gen TT though, sorry). Slotted rotors work well with my pads,
especially with Axxis Ultimate.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 00:28:21 -0500
From: "William J. Crabtree" <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Axle boots
I think I got mine from carparts.com(AKA JC Whitney) for alot cheaper than
I
could get them anywhere else. It's been too long and I don't remember
how
much I paid for them though, sorry.
- -Jeff C
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 08:48:28 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: (Remove engine-tranny together?)
I've never done this, but I've heard horror stories about first time engine
pullers not using the right equipment or taking shortcuts that can lead to
disastrous results. So take your time, be very careful, and use a load
leveler.
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#276
***************************************