Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Tuesday, October 14
2003 Volume 02 : Number 274
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Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 00:09:03 -0500
From: "Nick McDermott" <
eire1274@cox.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
OT 3M double sided tape
Goo Gone is orange oil extract, a natural lubricant that soaks into
the
adhesive and makes it... well, not adhesive! It will not
damage
anything, and will make whatever you use it on smell great (unless
you
don't like citrus).
Nick McDermott
93 VR-4
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Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 05:48:32 -0700
From: "Guy, Michael (CS)" <
michael.guy@ngc.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Guidance from the ground up
Does anybody sport the 3sx pipe? I have read all over the place
3si.org
mainly, that the 3sx pipe seems like the best bang for the buck?
Maybe I'm
wrong though?
Mike Guy
92 Stealth SOHC
3sx Downpipe -- 30 min. to put on.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 08:17:34 -0700 (PDT)
From:
vr4glenn@newsguy.comSubject: Team3S:
Removing Transfer Case
I'm in process of removing the transfer case as I likely have a
stripped
output shaft on the tranny (lost power under moderate acceleration
in 1st
gear, grinding noise in any gear)
I've removed the 5 bolts holding the transfer case on, then pulled out my
17
inch Craftsman pry bar. I've gone past my comfort level of pressure
(pry bar
flexing about 2 inches) and the front of the case isn't
moving. I stopped,
fearing something aluminum would soon be
breaking.
Suggestions? Should I just leave the stupid thing on and ship the
whole thing
to Kormex??
Glenn
'93 VR-4
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Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 10:28:00 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Guidance from the ground up
Yes, I installed the (combo) 3SXP downpipe and RT high-flow cat on my
94
Stealth NT (SOHC). Great fit and finish, and they bolted right
up. It's a
nice performance enhancement compared to stock, but I don't
know how it would
stack up against anything else... Why are you
asking? You already have the
pipe on your car - don't you like
it?
- ---Forrest
------------------------------
no problems with mine to date
Chuck Willis
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Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 13:26:57 -0600
From: "Donald Ashby" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Removing Transfer Case
Can you feel where it is sticking? Or is the whole thing not
moving?
Might want to try a piece of wood and a deadblow hammer :)
Donald Ashby
'93 3000GT VR-4 (RIP)
'92 3000GT VR-4 (Vroom!)
"Don't
drink and park, accidents cause people!"
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 16:22:01 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Dangerous datalog results!
I haven't a clue what is going on with my car at this point. I spoke
of my
'puzzling dyno results' a week ago, and I just now had the time to go
out and
datalog my VR-4. My SAFC-II settings are right where the dyno
guy left them
(way lean, I think, based on what I've had set before).
But I wanted to find
out what the datalog said... In addition, now the
car seems to have no power,
and is burning gas like crazy. The timing
at idle looks like 25 or so instead
of 5 BTDC, and I don't know quite what to
think. My tuner is here with me now
and we're wondering what to
do. Please give me any input you have as to
what's goind on with the
car. It seems to run differently every time I drive
it... Here's
the datalog - I ran it up to only about 6k and have know counts
of up to
28!:
www.Team3S.com/Dyno/1012A.tlg
FYI... SAFC-II settings:
We set the "low throttle" at -28 across
the board; here are the "high
throttle" settings that we used for the 9psi,
317 wheelhp dyno run, where they
still are:
1000: -28, 1600:
-25, 2200: -23, 2800: -20,
3400: -22, 4000: -22,
4600: -27, 5200: -29,
5800: -33, 6400: -35, 7000:
-35, 7600: -35
Please help! TIA...
Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 16:36:42 -0700
From: "Damon Rachell" <
DamonR@MEFAS.com>
Subject: Team3S: RE:
3S-Racers: Dangerous datalog results!
Bob,
Those high RPM settings seem WAY too high (as in too
negative). You very well might be getting good power from those settings
on the dyno due to a powerful lean a/f ratio but under normal driving
conditions, those settings are quite dangerous.
I have a very similar set up to you and have my 4500+RPMs up to -30 and no
more negative than that.
317AWHP at 9psi sounds suspiciously unsafe. Most cars do that at
12-14PSI with stock heads and upgraded turbos. With stage 3 heads, that's
a possibility, but you're stock, correct?
Richen things up and I'd bet dollars to doughnuts that your knock counts
drop dramatically. Check base timing and corrected timing, and check fuel
pressure as well. You may have an inconsistent pump voltage issue like I
had (A simple hotwire, non-Erik Gross method took care of a faulty resistor) so
check that as well.
Let us know what happens when your beast gets more fuel.
Damon Rachell
92 R/T TT: 550cc injectors, GT347s, full exhaust and
a few other things...
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 19:36:48 -0400
From: "The Furmans" <
L.Furman1@cox.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Dangerous datalog results!
Bob what size injectors on the car, what about fuel pump (hardwired?),
I
am thinking you are way too lean but could be way wrong also what
kind of
dyno did you tune on?
For pump gas and street tune, you want 11:1 on a dynojet and
about
11.7:1 on a load bearing dyno...
Russ F
CT
------------------------------
I have my settings now between -27 and -30, IIRC, and the car pulls like a
champ. It also ran fine when I had -29 across the board, both Hi and Lo
throttle with some richenning up at Lo throttle idle low RPM region for
better idle.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 16:48:01 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bforrest@pacbell.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Dangerous datalog results!
The pump is already hotwired. And I'll be changing the SAFC-II
settings back
to where they were, and starting all over again... I'm
just afraid to drive
the damn car!
Russ - it was a dynojet.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 21:05:53 -0400
From: "The Furmans" <
L.Furman1@cox.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Dangerous datalog results!
Bob than you definately want to aim for like 11:1 - 11.2:1, when you
hit
the street that comes out to be like 12.5:1 and your car runs
perfect there.
Definately richen up across the board and dial back
to -25 across the highend
and then report back.
Its too damn bad you are out in the republic of Kalifornia or I
would
have you come to KTR performance in Ayer MA and we could tune you
in
perfect there.
Hell about 3 weeks ago we tuned a 91 talon to make 411 AWHP on C-16
(on
a dynojet that was about 465 AWHP)
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 01:21:27 +0000
From:
mjannusch@comcast.netSubject: Re:
Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Dangerous datalog results!
Russ, can you explain a bit more about what you mean with 11:1 - 11.2:1
coming out to be like 12.5:1 on the street? I'm lost! :-) Why
would it be different on the street, particuarly such a large difference?
So with a wideband O2, tuning on the street, doing WOT pulls (in a secluded,
non-traffic, out-of-the-way, safe area) do we shoot for 11.1:1 or 12.5:1?
Thanks,
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 21:28:39 -0500
From: Christian Longtin <
Chriscooll@videotron.ca>
Subject:
Team3S: Transfer case not leaking ???
Hi everyone,
Here's how it goes. Less than 3 months ago I went to the
mitsubishi
dealer for the recall on the transfer case.
(That dealer has
been around for less than a year)
After waiting for more than 2 weeks to go there, first excuse was that
there
truck was stuck at the border and the next week they said that
there
mechanic who was suppose to work on my car was sick.
So after all that, I finnaly brought my car in and they said to me
that
there was a lot of oil and dripping but that it came from the head
cover. So
they said to me, that they were going to change the oil in the
transfer case
and that everything is alright.
We move on to 2 weeks ago. Since my second gear is a bit notchy, I
decided
with the recommandation from you guys to put in some
Red Line oil.
(MT-90 and MTL mix). (I did the all drivetrain oil change) So
I went to take
off the fill plug on the TC and it was stripped (badly
damaged) I had to use
vise-grip to get it off. Then I removed the drain plug
and there was a lot of
metal shavings after about only 800 miles since the
mitsu rendez-vous. I also
noticed that there was absolutly no sign of a leak
from the head cover. The
exhaust manifold on the back on the engine didn't
have a trace of oil on
it.
Also, I noticed that my TC had some kind of silicone to cover all the
lines
so It wouldn't leak.
The oil on it actually comes from the oil pan. There was a lot of
screws
that were loose. It's not as bad now but there is still a couple of
them I
can't get to with all the stuff in the way.
So, after I did the oil changes. I took my car for a ride and the
second
gear felt worse. I then didn't want to damaged the gears and didn't
use it
for a week. I was waiting for the next weekend to add some oil in
the
transmission. I did about 60 miles that day.
Now, looking at these pictures, it looks obvious with the red oil
that
it really is the TC that is leaking.
Since, i'm still a newbie I don't know if just by seeing the leak or
the
silicone on the TC that it should be replaced.
But, I know for sure
that there is no way that mitsu took the TC out to
inspect it. They also,
didn't change the oil and they told me a lot of crap.
I don't know if they
did this because they didn't receive the TC or because
they didn't have all
the pieces to change it and they were hoping I would
never go under the
car.
Now, my question is : by looking at these pictures is my transfer case
good
or bad or it needs to be inspected ?
If it's obviously bad and should have been changed 3 months ago, what are
my
options ?
Thanks for the help
Christian Longtin
1992 3000gt vr-4 : 107k miles
and leaking
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 01:52:56 +0000
From:
mjannusch@comcast.netSubject: Re:
Team3S: Transfer case not leaking ???
> Then I removed the drain plug and there was a lot of metal
>
shavings after about only 800 miles since the mitsu
> rendez-vous.
Not good... There will likely be some metal shavings there, but there
shouldn't be a "lot" after only 800 miles.
That is not the correct Mitsubishi-specified RTV sealant (Mitsubishi
Transmission Gasket Sealant - #A990ZC1X05). The Mitsubishi sealant is grey
in color. You could ask the dealer for the records from your recall.
Step 3c is: "Remove the transfer case drain plug and drain the oil.
Measure the quantity of oil removed and record it for your records on the repair
order." It'd be interesting to see what they recorded for the amount
drained.
If the case is not leaking, they are NOT to re-seal it with RTV sealant (or
take it apart or anything), but to just refill the transfercase with Mitsubishi
Diamond Gear Lube (75W-90/GL5 A991ZC2X01), with 8.5oz for a 5-speed transfercase
or 18.5oz for a 6-speed transfercase.
Seems like this dealer did not do the recall properly, since they told you
there were no leaks - but apparantly stripped the fill bolt (refilling
it???). They also took it apart and put some sort of non-Mitsubishi RTV on
it which isn't what the recall specifies.
It is a safety recall - it has to be done by the book.
You can call Mitsubishi's Customer Connections Department at 888-648-7820
and see what they say about it. They'll probably want your VIN
number. If they give you the runaround too, then you can call the NHTSA at
888-327-4236.
Good luck!
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#274
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