Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, September 24 2003 Volume 02 :
Number 262
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Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 20:30:43 -0400
From: "The Furmans" <
L.Furman1@cox.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Gingerman Sep'03 track report
Hey Phil, I will toss it out there but have you considered getting
an
aluminum radiator for the car first? I know MVPMotorsports.com
sells
them, see the link below.
Before you go through all the work of installing a larger oil cooler
(to
do it right would mean replacing the stock lines with SS lines and
the
appropriately sized Earl's fittings) Try this radiator first and
for 379
dollars it is not going to break the bank....
I am wondering if the shorter lower gears on the 6spd cars is really
the
route cause of the frequenlty reported 2G overheating problem.....
Russ F
CT
DR650's and supporting mods (god only know when it will run
though)
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Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 22:28:53 -0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
philip@supercar-engineering.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Gingerman Sep'03 track report
Thanks, Jim, but I think I will pass on this oil cooler. It does not seem
to be larger than stock and will partially block air flow to my
radiator.
Philip
------------------------------
Hmmm... sounds like a nice product at a great price. I have a concern
though. A claimed 35% increase in cooling capacity should solve the problem
until I install an FMIC that I am planning to get eventually. Then, I
guess, I would need another radiator upgrade. A more prudent way might be
to get a PPE radiator. It is a dual-pass unit and is definitely thicker,
since the stock cooling fans won't fit with it and Paul had to make special
fans for it.
http://www.ppeengineering.com/radiator.htm
Philip
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Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 07:29:47 -0400
From: "The Furmans" <
L.Furman1@cox.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S:WAS Gingerman Sep'03 NOW Radiators revisited
I agree with you if the PPE is in fact larger than the PWR one that
MVP
sells however if dimensions are the same, I would want to inquire
with MVP
weather the PWR model is dual pass or not....
TIme to start asking some questions I think
Russ F
CT
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Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 07:08:51 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S:
automotive dictionary
FWIW --- more stuff to save.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
The good news is that the new Kormex tranny is in. I am no longer
a
shiftless old ricer.
It feels good, actually goes into reverse (unlike the previous
Mitsu
rebuild) and the car runs like a scalded ape after we gutted the rear
cat.
I can actually feel a difference in how the car runs. I have to
keep
looking down to see that I am still running the stock boost setting on
the
DSBC. It may also be that we tightened up all the intercooler pipes
and
other stuff to eliminate boost leaks. In any case, it runs really
strong!!
Better than it has in months.
Now the bad news. Something's leaking.
We put it up on a rack this morning. Fluid is coming out from between
the
transfer case and the six speed. It leaves a nice little puddle on
the
garage floor.
Kormex asked me to see if it was leaking from the vent at the top.
That
would be evidence that we overfilled it. Nope. No fluid anywhere high up
on
the trans. (I assume the vent is outside the tranny near the top.)
No
evidence of any leaking. I'll call them in a bit, once California wakes
up.
We also replaced the fluid in the transfer case. If we overfilled the
Xfer
case, where would it vent? I saw no evidence of any fluid on the top of
the
Xfer case. If we did overfill it, could that be the cause of a leak at
that
point?
It's supposed to be dry between the Xfer case and the tranny,
right?
Nothing in there but an output shaft? There's no gasket between the
two, is
there?
Could we have bollixed up the installation somehow? Everything seems
to
fit, but I haven't run it hard or "launched" it, so I haven't really
tested
it under any kind of stress.
Suggestions?
For example, where should we put the dye? In the tranny or the
transfer
case? How long will it take to work its way out?
Rich/slow old poop
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Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 12:10:30 -0500
From: "William J. Crabtree" <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Tranny in but leaking
Rich,
I had similar leakage probs
after my "home" rebuild. The space between the
tranny and the x-fer
SHOULD be dry as a bone. this is essentially your bell
housing for the
clutch. There's no fluid that's SUPPOSED to be in that
area.
There are SEVERAL possibilities as to where your leak's coming
from
though. FIRST...and easiest thing to do (and you'll want to get
Kormex's
blessing on this) is to tighten the bolts that hold the tranny
case
together. I THINK that they are 13mm. Now, when I say
tighten, I don't
mean put a cheater bar on them and give 'em a half
turn. I mean, just put a
wrench on them and "snug" them a little.
What you DON'T want to do is crack
or distort the tranny case. THIS is
what got my tranny to FINALLY quick
leaking after my rebuild. just
continually snugging these bolts, just a
hair, until the case was dry.
OTHER possibilities: there
is a seal on the output shaft of the tranny
that feeds the input of the
x-fer, there is also a seal on the x-fer infut.
EITHER of these COULD be the
source. You should be able to easily determine
if that's the case by
simply removing the x-fer and getting your head up in
there and giving it a
good look-see. IF you overfilled the x-fer, it would
vent at the top on
that little rubber nipple and run down both sides
(likely)
Hope that helps, I know it's frustrating!
- -Jeff C.
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Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 07:46:27 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Re: 3S-Racers: Harbor Frieght Cordless Impact
Excellent unit! We did 6 wheel changes (of all 4 wheels) at Sears
Point two
weeks ago on a single charge, and it still seemed like it had
plenty more
juice left. And we lent it to a couple of other racers, so
it was 7 or 8
changes, total... This is one of those tools that you
wonder why you didn't
buy one sooner. It's lightweight, charges
quickly, and comes in a handy case
that can hold extra sockets, extensions
and other goodies. Highly
recommended!
- --Forrest
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Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 12:55:24 -0700
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Gingerman Sep'03 track report
Phillip -
Sounds like the tender springs improved the ride quality of the JIC
suspension quite a bit. Would you consider it street driveable
now? When I had the JIC setup on my car I didn't consider it to be
bearable on many roads. If these springs help solve that problem, I might
be tempted to give the JIC setup another try...
- - Brian
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Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 17:33:46 -0400
From: bob atkins <
ratkins@cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Re: 3S-Racers: Harbor Freight Cordless Impact
Thanks for all the testimonials. I had the $269 Craftsman in my hands
the
other day and just couldn't get that much money out of my pocket.
Glad I
waited - Thanks Dustin!
Badbob
'99VR-4
------------------------------
I would say that the car is much more street driveable now. Anyone who
already has the JIC's would appreciate the difference in ride and
handling.
But I would hate to advise to everyone to go and buy their set of new
JIC's. One of the reasons, among many, is that one of my winter projects
will be to make a couple of suspensions for our cars - one simple and one
high-tech, so if your need for a suspension upgrade is not urgent, then you
may want to wait and see. I have started the high-tech project already but
I can not share the details yet.
But you can order my tender springs with confidence already if you have the
JIC's. If in the future you decide to buy my high-tech suspension, then you
could reuse the tender springs and save some $$ since they will also be
used there.
I have not announced the price of the tender springs yet. They are $259
shipped. This is a bargain if one considers all the quality components that
went into this product. The installation is rather simple. I installed the
rear springs at the track in under 60 min and the front springs in about
the same time after the end of the day. A suspension re-alignment is not
required if the ride height is kept the same.
Philip
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#262
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