Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Thursday, September 18 2003 Volume 02 : Number
258
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Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2003 11:20:38 -0600
From: "Donald Ashby" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Low fuel pressure causing knock with boost?
So, what has happened since then? Any more info?
Donald Ashby
'93
3000GT VR-4 (RIP)
'92 3000GT VR-4 (Vroom!)
"Don't drink and park,
accidents cause people!"
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2003 01:31:29 -0400
From: "Eric Pierce" <
griz600cc@comcast.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Rear Spoiler
I have a 93 Stealth ES. My factory rear spoiler got cracked and I bought
the
3 piece spoiler that came on the 1996 3000 GT. I was wondering if the
lcd
rear brake light from the Stealth (still intact) would fit in the
new
spoiler and if the wires for it would reach.
I know it's not the factory spoiler and changes the look, but I like
the
appearence of it.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2003 11:50:42 -0600
From: "Donald Ashby" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: full circle disk brakes.
Wouldn't the full circle breaks cause some brake cooling problems? Wouldn't
virtually no airflow be
reaching the rotor?
Donald Ashby
'93 3000GT
VR-4 (RIP)
'92 3000GT VR-4 (Vroom!)
"Don't drink and park, accidents cause
people!"
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2003 07:05:59 -0400
From: Darren Schilberg <
dschilberg@spamcop.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Starting problems...alternator need replacing?
Kyle - I was just about to make the same post but was trying to find
someone
on here who had offered to sell me their alternator. I think
they were from
Canada. If that person is still reading then please
drop me a line as I can't
remember who it was. Thanks.
Anyway, make sure it is not your battery. If it has cells of water
then make
sure one of the cells is not dry as that will cause it not to work
so well.
Or, charge it up for a day (on the slow, trickle charge) and
see what the
volts are then let the car sit for a day and measure the volts
again. It
should be up in the mid- to high-12 volt range. If it
is low-12 or in the 11s
then the battery is either discharging (small
drain), not keeping a charge, or
not being charged by the alternator.
It could also be a drain like a short in the alarm or an aftermarket radio
staying on too. If the place where you bought the battery has a
warranty then
see if they will test it for you or replace it if it is
bad.
- --Flash!
'95 VR-4
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2003 07:27:30 -0500
From: "Jesse Rink" <
jrink-3si@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Low fuel pressure causing knock with boost?
I have decided to keep the 360s in for now. They work great although
my IDC
is a bit high at boost. However, I get virtually 0 knock
throughout all
gears and that was my main focus. I think I will try
550s next summer, but
I will definitely be dropping my basic ignition timing
to 3-5 before
installing them (basic ignition timing is currently around
8.5). For now,
I'm happy to have a car without problems...
hehe. My PST CFDS goes in this
Saturday! That'll keep me
happy for awhile.
Jesse Rink
Eagle, WI
------------------------------
Check your battery cables. They tend to corrode inside where it's not
obvious and on both ends. The corrosion makes for high resistance and
starting (and charging)problems.
The alternator can be checked by any auto parts store, like O'Reilly's,
Autozone, or PepBoys.
Chuck Willis
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2003 10:06:03 -0400
From: "Williams, Tommy F" <
WilliamsTF@bernstein.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Need Help with Trouble Code
Can someone help with Mitsubishi's interpretation of the code I'm
getting
below. It shows up usually about a day after I've been running a
little
aggressively. Once after racing a 350z and again with a
Camaro.
(both
kills)
Thanks,
Tommy
Time : 9/16/2003 7:47
PM
Vehicle : Mitsubishi
CarChip
: 3000GT VR-4
* * * * * * * * * * *
* *
Trouble Code : P2000 *
* *
* * * * * * * * * * *
Description :
Unknown Powertrain DTC (SAE Controlled; Fuel and Air
Metering and Auxiliary
Emission Controls)
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2003 06:58:03 -0700
From: "Guy, Michael (CS)" <
michael.guy@ngc.com>
Subject:
Team3S: What now?
Today as I was driving my car and came off a light, gave it a little bit
of
gas. As I got into third gear, I punched it a little harder from
roughly
45mph. The car accelerated quickly, and then shot all the way to 120.
As it
was going it would make a thumping sound and the steering wheel was
shaking
quite violently.
When the speedo hit 120, I hit the brake where it promptly dropped down
to
40mph, but the car was still doing somewhere between 55-70 mph. So I hit
my
hazards and pulled over.
Looking under the car, it didn't look like anything was really wrong and
I
was already on my way to the shop to get an alignment. Figured I have
them
take a look at it. When I got in, I fired her right up, pushed the
clutch in
put it into gear, where it didn't seem like it grabbed. Released
the clutch
to take off and the car didn't move, but as I reved the motor to
take off,
the speedo went to 20 mph, and then dropped down slowly as I eased
off the
gas. Same in 2nd and 3rd gear.
Please tell me I didn't mess something else up. It already has 2
new
half-shafts. New clutch(SBC Rally),Throw-out bearing and pressure plate.
Thanks,
Mike
92 Stealth SOHC
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2003 10:53:37 -0500
From: "John C. Davidson" <
jd@edge-software.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: window guts
Well, since I made that page... I'll throw my 2cents. ;)
In short, there are a few 'extra' benefits to this fix I've noticed (in
addition
to the basic... it works):
- - now that the upper pulley firmly placed, there is a lot less play in
the
overall window too (i.e. it doesn't rattle anymore) and tracks much
smooth
during operation... not as 'jerky', etc.
- - the window now seals much better at the top (no more water leaks when I
use
the power sprayer at the car wash), less wind noise at very high speeds
(120+)
I highly recommend this to everyone, even if your window regulators have
not
broken (yet). In fact, it's probably even better doing it to a new
regulator
since the the pulley would be exactly aligned when fixed in place
by the support
brace.
Cheers,
-JD
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2003 12:02:05 -0400
From: "Ken Lovell" <
wklovell@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: window guts
As long as we're talking about windows...
One of mine goes up a little slower than the other. Its done it since
I
had the car (for a year), and doesn't seem to be getting any worse.
I
haven't taken it apart to figure out why, but would
re-fabricated
bracket likely fix it?
Thanks,
Ken
'97 VR4
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2003 11:07:20 -0500 (CDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: full circle disk brakes.
Air comes from within..
- ---
www.SpeedToys.com: Geoff
Mohler
orders@speedtoys.comTeam3S/3Si.org
Vendor approved brake discounter; also,
parts for Toyota, Audi, BMW,
Mercedes, Porsche, SAAB, Volvo.
Where do you buy YOUR brakes? I can
help...asking is free! :)
"If its in stock, we have it!"
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2003 11:22:52 -0500
From: "John C. Davidson" <
jd@edge-software.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: window guts
Fix it? I don't know... depends on if it's the motor, or the
mechanism.
I do know this: if the regulator is in the process of failing...
you'll have a
lot of flex in the regulator mechanism (as the various parts
bend and the window
shifts as cable force is applied). In combination
with dirty, un-lubed window
tracks, this can slow the progress of the window
and put more stress on window
motor in the process.
It doesn't take much effort or much money to do the fix. And IMHO it
is well
worth it... even as a preventative measure.
-JD
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2003 12:39:49 -0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt D" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Starting problems...alternator need replacing?
I got one from kragen for a little over $200, with lifetime warranty.
If
wires are ok, and connections, then your test seems to
indicate
alternator
as you mentioned.
Kurt
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2003 12:50:38 -0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt D" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: full circle disk brakes.
Yes, that is first intuition. But it may be due to larger contact
area,
the heat transfers to pads and other brake parts, then is drawn
away.
One point they made was the larger area means lower working
temperature.
This should be true, the pad / rotor interface temperature
should be
roughly
proprtional to the pad / rotor area for a given braking
force.
Their pictures were not that elucidative regarding how
cooling is done.
Need some web searches on anyone using Newtech or similar
designs.
Kurt
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2003 12:02:41 -0500
From: "Nick McDermott" <
eire1274@cox.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
What now?
Not wanting to be the giver of bad news, but I had exactly the
same
thing happen to another FWD car (not a 3S) my brother-in-law
owned:
diagnosis, thrown gear in the trans differential. The
transmission
shows speed because it still thinks it is going, but the power
is never
applied through the differential to the halfshafts.
In the case of this particular car, transmission replacement was
FAR
cheaper than rebuilding. Probably true in this case, too, as the
FWD
trans you have should be pretty common.
Nick McDermott
93 VR-4 (still ain't finished, got to put myself together
first!)
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2003 10:06:03 -0700
From: Peter Linss <
peter@linss.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
full circle disk brakes.
I saw heat sink fins on each side of the calipers. I imagine that they
have the heat problem under control, better heat handling is their #1
claim.
What has me more concerned is how it'll handle water and dirt... how
will it do after the first mud puddle you drive through?
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2003 10:42:28 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
full circle disk brakes.
Commie lies --- the heat dissipated is directly proportional to speed
and
mass of the vehicle [ kenitic energy and all that physics stuff ]. I saw
some picutres of it on a race car a year or so back so they must accomplish
it somehow --- the web shows cooling fins on the clamping surfaces. I
assume it dissipates heat all the way around on both surfaces.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Would someone please send a link to an actual pictures of these
brakes?
I think the total heat generated is proportional to the mv^2, but
the
temperature of the pad is inversely proportional to its contact area.
Small
pads will still work if a race brake compound is used, but it won't
feel
good on the street. Maybe the biggest thing that they achieved was
that
they can now use the same low-temperature street pads on the street and
at
the track? I have to see the design to tell if their heat dissipation
is
any better than that of the conventional brakes.
Philip
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2003 11:09:02 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
full circle disk brakes.
While the heat is spread out over a larger pad surface you still have to
absorb and dissipate all of the energy of a moving vehicle.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2003 14:50:18 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Starting problems...alternator need replacing?
I just went through it this past weekend... The car turned over 3-4
times
before starting (it usually starts instantly), but I didn't think
anything of
it. I was driving home south on I-80 after a race weekend,
just before dawn
to miss traffic. As the daylight came up, I thought it
was my tired eyes when
the dash lights appeared a bit dim. I killed all
the accessories that were
running, but the dash was getting dimmer - I had
just enough time to pull over
to the left emergency lane as the car
died. AAA towed it to a friend's shop
10 miles away, so it wasn't as
awful as it could have been. (He even drove us
and all our gear home to
SF, 20 miles away!) At home, I checked the Team3S
Good Guys page, and I
got the best price for an OEM Mitsu alternator from San
Rafael Mitsu for
$260, after my Team3S discount. Money is *always* an issue,
but using
the actual OEM part will often be the cheapest way in the long run.
Kragen
may have a lifetime guarantee, but that still won't cover the labor if
you
have to replace a faulty replacement alternator. If you're doing the
work
yourself, the rebuilt from eBay or a Kragen non-OEM will save you a few
bucks,
but if you're paying for the labor, you're better off with a reliable
OEM
part, IMHO... Good luck!
- ---Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2003 22:26:08 -0500
From: Christian Longtin <
Chriscooll@videotron.ca>
Subject:
Team3S: Best airflow signal conditioner and aftermarket MAS
Hey everyone,
I was looking at possible upgrades for my car and I was
wondering if you
could help me out with these questions. I know that the
first one is very
debatable but still, I think there's a good chance we might
find a winner.
- Which airflow signal conditioner works the best with our cars ?
APEXi S-AFC, HKS AFR, ARC2 or what else ???
I found the HKS to be much cheaper and some say that it is better
than
the S-AFC ? Is it true ?
- Also, were can I find an aftermarket MAS ? Is Granatelli motorsports
the
only place ? How much should I expect to pay for them ?
- Last but not least, were do you guys put all that electronic equipement
?
I was looking at putting in :
Electronic Boost Controller
Turbo
Timer
HKS AFR or something else
and a CD changer.
Although, there's a significant change while taking out the factory radio.
I
can't how I could get all that stuff to fit in there ?
Any suggestions,
example on other cars ?
Thanks for your comments
Christian Longtin
92 3000gt vr-4
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2003 21:34:51 -0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
alex@kolosy.com>
Subject: Team3S: car
for sale
Hey all,
I'm selling my vr4. It's a '95
with 94k. Everything in excellent
condition except for the trans, which has
the dreaded second gear
synchro problem. It's driveable, but will need to
replaced at some
point.
Email me for more info and
pictures.
I'm in Chicago.
Thanks,
Alex
'95 VR4 FS
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2003 21:36:47 -0700 (PDT)
From:
dark@non-corporeal.netSubject: Re:
Team3S: Best airflow signal conditioner and aftermarket MAS
> - Last but not least, were do you guys put all that electronic
equipement ?
> I was looking at putting in :
> Electronic Boost
Controller
> Turbo Timer
Well, most people seem to route the cable to three places. Those places
being, the glovebox, the console box, and placed in and around the center
panel (in the air vents, in custom brackets under an aftermarket radio).
Your options depend on what set you want to install.
The cables easily run under the dash and center floor unit to wherever you
want. The center box has an access hole built in (interesting isn't it...)
and getting cables into the glovebox is easy enough (it's all the digging
around in the dash for splice/installation thats a pain - though there
are tricks - check jeff's site). The air vents and custom brackets are
very posh, but I am sure you can figure out the tradeoffs.
Personally, I like the glovebox or to a lesser extent the center box. I
don't want people fiddling with my hard won settings (especially while
driving) and the centerbox has drink holders so you can guess what might
happen there.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2003 22:56:28 -0600
From: "Paul Rupp" <
3000GT-VR4@acorp.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Trusted Mechanic in Albuquerque, New Mexico for 3S's?
Anybody know/have a trusted mechanic or shop in Albuquerque, New Mexico
for
3S's, specifically a '94 3000GT VR4?
Thanks!
- - Paul
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 04:14:14 -0700
From: "Guy, Michael (CS)" <
michael.guy@ngc.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Best airflow signal conditioner and aftermarket MAS
they make a guage pod you can replace your factory ash tray with. In
the
pic, he has his boost gauge mounted there.
They make a new surround for your dash that can hold a S-AFC or a
Turbo
Timer along with an aftermarket headunit or I would assume
the
factory...saying its a single din...I know mine is on my 92. Or you
can
mount gauges in there...its a duel pod mount.
Just my thoughts
Mike Guy
92 Stealth SOHC -- Ripped the axle out of the transmission
mod
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#258
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