Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, September 17 2003 Volume 02 :
Number 257
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Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 00:56:38 -0400
From:
Songsay@cs.comSubject: Team3S: viscous
coupler
Is there any inherent problem with having the viscous coupler stuck on
closed? All i see is that i have total rear wheel drive all the time. Any
comments would be appreciated.
------------------------------
It's a box with wires you splice in. All of them just splice into the ECU
wiring harness. It has a graphical display, you choose rpm points (you get 8
points to set with a 2nd gen safc, not sure about the 3rd gen, don't bother
getting a 1st gen) and you select "correction" at those points.
Correction
being how much positive or negative the safc changes the airflow. For example,
if you got 450cc injectors, base correction "SHOULD" be around -20% across the
board. Er, it might be 25%, I'm not sure which way you go, if you look at how
much bigger is this injector, or how much smaller is stock injector. It's been a
long time since I wrote up the S-AFC guide, which you should look at by the
way:
http://www.team3s.com/FAQ-AFCtuning.htmJeff
pointed out recently that some of the exact information is incorrect, but the
basic theory behind it still stands.
Donald Ashby
'93 3000GT VR-4 (RIP)
'92 3000GT VR-4 (Vroom!)
"Don't
drink and park, accidents cause people!"
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 23:06:03 -0600
From: "Donald Ashby" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: viscous coupler
I'm pretty sure if the viscious gets stuck your front wheels turn the same
speed as the rear wheels,
and it ends up putting a lot of strain on
everything?
Donald Ashby
'93 3000GT VR-4 (RIP)
'92 3000GT VR-4
(Vroom!)
"Don't drink and park, accidents cause people!"
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 23:17:48 -0600
From: "Donald Ashby" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Replacing Interior Carpet
On that note, has anyone found anyone who sells the head liner besides the
dealership, I was hoping
to find a black one.
Donald Ashby
'93 3000GT
VR-4 (RIP)
'92 3000GT VR-4 (Vroom!)
"Don't drink and park, accidents cause
people!"
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 01:22:41 -0400
From: "Trevor Paciotti" <
sam_or_i@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: SAFC?
Ok, now what does the 'S' stand for in SAFC? I get the rest of the AFC,
hehe. Oh, and about how much does one cost new?(cant you all tell i'm
looking at a turbo upgrade?)
- -Paciotti
91 R/T TT
------------------------------
Super-Air Flow Converter
do a search on yahoo or ebay for the price, you
can occasionally get brand new ones off ebay for
220-250.
Donald
Ashby
'93 3000GT VR-4 (RIP)
'92 3000GT VR-4 (Vroom!)
"Don't drink and
park, accidents cause people!"
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 00:25:44 -0500
From: "William J. Crabtree" <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Replacing Interior Carpet
Don,
Look in your local yellow pages
for shops that do headliner replacement.
Some of them will sell you the
material or tell you where you can buy it
locally. I've replaced my
headliner several times. It's a SIMPLE process.
You only need about 4
linear feet of the material. Cost: Approx $10.
- -Jeff Crabtree
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 05:48:10 -0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: viscous coupler
Correct. Makes turning a lil difficult, as the tires was to bing
a
little - this is only evident at slower, tighter turns.
It is common practice amongst the really fast AWD DSM's to weld
their
VCU or have it replaced with a solid unit.
- -Cody
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 11:10:55 -0400
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: High Flow oil Pump? Were do you get an oilpump tested?
I think I have a suggestion. I think it should the manufacturer's job
to
demonstrate that the pump indeed flows 14-20% more oil and explain how
it
was measured and at what conditions that happens.
Some companies think that if a thing is hard to measure, it could
me
considered intangible and does not need any proof of performance.
That
tempted a few manufacturers to exaggerate. Even companies like HKS
have
been known to exaggerate. Remember their "high-flow" rebadged Denso
fuel
pump that retailed for $700?
Philip
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 09:24:36 -0600 (GMT-06:00)
From: Jim Floyd <
jim_floyd7@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Replacing Interior Carpet
Donald,
Had mine done in Longmont.
Check it out next time.
Jim Floyd
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 08:27:06 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
High Flow oil Pump? Were do you get an oilpump tested?
The trouble is that the manufacturers exaggerate [ see your HKS example
].
If they were selling a bazillion of the parts you could get the
Government
on the case but the volume is so small that no one but us
cares.
It might be interesting to contact the manufacturer and see what their
claims
are and what testing info they have.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 09:45:55 -0700
From: "Rivenburg, Pete" <
privenburg@firstam.com>
Subject:
Team3S: full circle disk brakes.
Anyone seen after market brakes like the ones on this new Saleen S7?
Pete Rivenburg
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 11:35:59 -0700 (PDT)
From:
djohnson@newsguy.comSubject: Team3S:
Arc2w/87mmMAF vs SAFC
I'm looking at restoring and upgrading my entire engine, turbo and tranny
for
a 91 VR4. The list of suggested components are very expensive
around 15 thou,
so I'm looking to save money where I can of course, which
brings me to the
question, what's the big difference between the ARC2 unit
and SAFC, and is it
worth spending the extra money to get the ARC2?
Darrell
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 19:51:54 +0000
From:
mjannusch@comcast.netSubject: Re:
Team3S: Arc2w/87mmMAF vs SAFC
> I'm looking at restoring and upgrading my entire
> engine, turbo
and tranny for a 91 VR4. The list
> of suggested components are very
expensive around
> 15 thou, so I'm looking to save money where I
can
> of course, which brings me to the question, what's
> the big
difference between the ARC2 unit and SAFC,
> and is it worth spending the
extra money to get
> the ARC2?
The ARC2 is a piece of junk, if you ask me. At least the version of
it I had
was as far as tunability went. One click too lean, one click
the other way
too rich. ARM-1 is near useless for tuning. The
S-AFC2 is much more tunable,
costs less, and provides better tuning feedback
for the average user. If you
are going to spend the money on an ARC2
you'd be better off with an AEM EMS
(as long as you are willing to spend a
lot of time learning how to use it, or
pay a professional AEM shop to tune
the car for you).
What's your goal for the car? How fast do you want to make it?
What's the
primary use of the car? What people recommend will depend a
lot on what you
are trying to do with it.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 13:56:54 -0600
From: "Curtis McConnell" <
Curtis.McConnell@Pulte.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Arc2w/87mmMAF vs SAFC
Ditto for me on the ARC2, but then again I bought it from Matt :).
I
have the LS-6 MAFT and like much better, and much cheaper.
Curtis McConnell
1995 Vr-4 Spyder
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 16:01:27 -0400
From: Roger Lee <
rcleeny@optonline.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Front Brake Rotor
Anybody know the secret to getting a brake rotor off? Mine got a
little
(lot) hot at the track and now the rotor won't come off.
Thanks,
Roger
------------------------------
There are two small threaded holes in the rotor hat, one on either side of
the hub. These holes are smaller than the holes for the lugs. I don't
recall the size or thread pitch, but they are specifically there to assist in
freeing the rotor from the hub. You get appropriate bolts and screw them
in the holes. Also hit the rotor with a rubber mallet on the hat to
dislodge corrosion. If you have never had the rotors off, you are likely to have
corrosion between the steel rotor and the stainless stell hub (like
electrochemistry). When you reattach the rotors, do yourself a favor and
coat the face of the hub with anti-seize compound.
Chuck Willis
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 13:24:18 -0700
From: Michael Gerhard <
gerhard1@llnl.gov>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Front Brake Rotor
I've had good success using the two bolt method. There are two threaded
holes on the hub of the rotor. Thread an appropriate sized bolt into each
hole and alternately tighten them. I think I used 1/4 turn on one bolt and
then 1/4 turn on the second bolt, and repeated until the rotor popped
off.
I discovered that for my 91 VR4 the required size is the same size as the
bolts which hold on the jacking point cover plate in the front active aero.
Before I discovered that those bolts worked I had used two bolts from the
upper radiator brackets.
I upgraded my rotors to Porterfield cryo-treated rotors and discovered that
the new rotors require a larger bolt. I think it's 10mm fine thread.
- --------------------------------------------------------------
Mike
Gerhard 1991
Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Pearl White
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 13:26:50 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Front Brake Rotor
First off of course is some kind of penetrating oil --- not at the front of
the hub
unless you have a pretty new hub --- but rather at the seating
surface of the
rotor and hub --- The back of the rotor where it aligns
with the outside diameter
of the hub. Let it soak a bit.
Use the small bolts as Chuck advised or if all else fails:
Some folks have removed the caliper, and using a longer bolt, threaded it
through
caliper mounting tab to push against the back of the caliper. You
can push one
side of the rotor then back off the bolt and turn the rotor 90
degrees and use the
bolt to push the rotor again --- repeat until loose. Use
a wire wheel to clean the
inside of the rotor and the outside of the hub
unless you have a newer car or a
new hub [ I'm not sure where the design
change took place ] . Add a little thread
compound when reassembling.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 20:35:11 +0000
From:
mjannusch@comcast.netSubject: RE:
Team3S: Arc2w/87mmMAF vs SAFC
> I'm shooting for 500+ horses with a streetable turbo
> and
assortment of accesories that will hold legitmate
> (17-18 lbs)boost all
the way to redline. Not trying
> to make it into the 10's, but a
consistant 11 second
> car that's not too difficult to maintain is my
goal.
> I'll take it to the track, but just to see if I got
> my
monies worth.
Dynamic Racing DR-650R turbos - $2099
660cc injectors - Around
$600
Apexi Super AFC 2 - $349
K&N FIPK - $185
ATR Downpipe -
$329
ATR 3" High Flow Cat - $199
ATR Catback Exhaust - $779
DSM 1st gen
blowoff valve & adapter - $129
RPS MAX Clutch with Street disc -
$525
Boost gauge ($50 - 300)
EGT Gauge ($150 - 450)
Wideband O2 Sensor
and display - $400
PocketLogger + Palm Pilot - $250
Hallman Boost
Controller - $50 - 180
Late model Supra/Denso fuel pump - $200
Figure around $6500-7000 with shipping. If you install it all
yourself then
you are done. If you have a shop do the install/tuning
then it could be a lot
more.
Really, if you use those components and get it all tuned and working
together
well then mid 11's are just a good drag pass away. Since
you've got a '91,
save up money for the inevitable broken tranny output
shaft/sleeve that you'll
need to replace.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
... or if the rotors are trash and you're really angry, just beat the devil
out of the rotor with a steel mallet!!!
Chuck Willis
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 16:41:41 -0400
From: "Shannon Andrew Rowe" <
shannonroweis@rogers.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Strange "hoot" sound
I have just recently discovered a strange "hoot" or "howl" originating
from
what would appear to be the rear/drivers side area. I think I'm
pretty safe
to assume something turbo related.
I don't seem to be losing any oil or power. It usually occurs in
second
gear and seems to start when the stock turbo gauge hits 0. The
"hoot" lasts
for about a half to three quarters of a second and never is
heard again,
only around the 0 mark.
My question is what is it??
What should I do about it?
Not this May, but last May I had both turbos rebuilt and they have been
fine
up to this point.
Thanks in advance,
Shannon
92 Stealth TT
K&N FIPK
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 21:00:21 +0000
From:
mjannusch@comcast.netSubject: Re:
Team3S: Strange "hoot" sound
> My question is what is it?? What should I do about it?
>
> Shannon
> 92 Stealth TT
> K&N FIPK
Its the interaction between the crappy stock compressor bypass valve
(blowoff
valve) and the K&N opening up the intake. You don't need
to do anything about
it, and it doesn't hurt anything. If you don't
like hearing the sound you can
upgrade to a different bypass valve.
The 1st generation DSM valve with a 2G
DSM adapter piece works perfectly for
about $130.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
You've got a boost leak at the stock BOV. At least I'm assuming it's
a
stock BOV (Blow off Valve). Mine, and many others' have done the
same
after replacing the stock air intake box with an aftermarket open
air
filter. More air coming in increases the boost pressure enough
to
create some type of resonation and thus the weird sound. It's
well
documented and will not harm your car, but sounds embarassing and
you
are truly leaking boost at the BOV, so it's best to replace it with
an
aftermarket, or cheaper alternative, a 1st Gen DSM
(Talon/Eclipse/Laser)
stock BOV. I chose the latter and paid around $50
total (you have to
buy both the used BOV from a 1st Gen DSM and an adapter
for it). Look
on eBay. Super simple to hook up, and because your
car is a 1st gen,
you shouldn't have fitment problems with your shifter
linkage.
Others may have more to add (and maybe correct me....as I'm a novice)
Good luck!
- -"The definition of insanity is doing the same thing and
expecting
different results."
Patrick Purviance
'94 Dodge
Stealth R/T TT, Dark Green/Blk Leather
Open Air Filter, 1g DSM BOV, ProBoost
MCB, Blitz DATT, Indiglo Gauges
(even the center ones)
- -no more
hooot!
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 14:25:36 -0700
From: "Mosher, David" <
dmosher@ea.com>
Subject: Team3S: ISO 3S
Service Manuals and a question about the Manuals on CD.
Hello Everyone,
I have a question about the CD service manuals that are
currently
available for our cars; are they as good as the factory service
manuals
and do they cover the same information?
Also I was wondering if anyone had an extra Manual on their hands
that
they would be willing to sell?
Thanks
David Mosher
92 White Pearl VR4 Stock 203K.
"Life is not
measured by th e number of breaths we take,
>but by the moments that take our breath away!"
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 17:44:19 -0400
From: Roger Lee <
rcleeny@optonline.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Front Brake Rotor
Thanks to both! Used the two bolts from the upper radiator brackets
and it
came right off!
Ask the right people and you get the right answers!
Roger
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 15:01:25 -0700 (PDT)
From:
g2write@newsguy.comSubject: Team3S:
window guts
I have a '92 3000gt SL. A small white pully near the top of the door
(in the
middle) broke off and now of course the window wont roll up.
The Mitsu.
dealer said that I have to buy the entire guts including the
window moter(he
said it is all one piece) which is over $250 plus
labor. Does anyone know if
there might be an after market part I could
buy instead of the entire guts of
the window. If not, would the parts
out of a '92 stealth be the same?
If you have any info. please let me
know,
Thanks,
Gary Rohrbach
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 16:34:02 -0600
From: "Paul Rupp" <
3000GT-VR4@acorp.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: window guts
Maybe that is what you are talking about? Let us know if you try
it.
- - Paul
Albuquerque, New Mexico
1994 3000GT VR4
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 17:48:32 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
full circle disk brakes.
It's been talked about before --- it's been used in a race car sponsered
by
newtech. Looks real pricey !!! Feel free to buy a setup and do an
evaluation
for us --- or maybe you could by an F7 to check it out.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Glad it worked. But those are wrong bolts that you used. They are
self-tapping and have a standard pitch as opposed to the fine pitch that is
on the rotors.
I had the same problem long time ago. My rotor threads were rusted beyond
recognition. My solution was similar to Jim's. I soaked the back of the
front rotors and the holes around the wheel studs on the rear rotors with a
rust penetrant. Be careful with soaking the rear rotors, there is a parking
brake inside. Then I wedged a chisel between the caliper bracket and the
rotor and hammered on it while rotating the rotor several times. Worked
great in the front and in the rear.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 22:15:24 -0700
From: kapatton <
kapatton@uclink.berkeley.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Starting problems...alternator need replacing?
Hi guys this is my first post!
I'm a newbie when it comes to cars so please bear with me...
The problem
is my car wont start. When I turn the key I get no lights and not
the
slightest indication that the car is attempting to start ie. starter
noises
etc. When I jump the car, I get barely 13.5 volts on the voltmeter, but
when
I turn on the lights the volts drop below 10 and the car feels like it's
going to stall. When I turn the car off again after jumping the car becomes
unresponsive again to any further attempts to starting.
I'm guessing the alternator is dead, which keeps the battery from getting
recharged resulting in my starting problems. Does this sound like the
problem?
The battery is pretty new (replaced within the past 3 months) so
I'm pretty
sure it's fine. Is there other problems I should be
considering?
If the alternator is the problem, is it feasible and/or advisable to buy a
"rebuilt" alternator off of ebay and replace it myself (assuming I have
little
knowledge of cars, but willing to learn)? Money is an issue. Thanks
for any
help!!!
Yours,
Kyle Patton
'94 3000gt base
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#257
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