Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Sunday, September 14 2003 Volume
02 : Number 255
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Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2003 11:14:03 -0500
From: "William J. Crabtree" <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: rear steering
I'd say, rebuild the rack. It's not that hard, it's discussed in
detail in
the service manual, and it's alot cheaper than replacing the
rack. There's
no way that the rack is actually worn out. Just the
seals.
- -Jeff Crabtree
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Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2003 14:11:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: gary walton <
aeronca133875@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Ignition Problems ?
Hello list,
I have a bone stock 92 vr4 with 55k miles which had been
setting up for a
while waiting on funds and time to change out the tranny and
transfer case.
I got them from Kormex and did the swap. It wasn't fun, but it
wasn't too
bad. While the car was parked, I cranked it and let it warm up
about once a
week. Kept it full of fresh fuel and it always started and ran
fine.
After the tranny job, I was recharging the A/C, (should have run it
often
too) running at fast idle(1500rpm) the car started mis-firing. I
pulled the front
plugs, they looked ok, I cleaned them, put them back in, and
the problem seemed to
almost go away. Next day I cranked it and it was
missing again. I already
had all the parts on hand to do the 60K service on
it, so that was next.
All went well thanks to all the info I have gotten from
you guys.
I fabricated a couple of "special tools" in the process.
One
holds the crankshaft so both hands and feet are free to
break the nut loose.
Another allows you to use a long extension and
breaker bar or ratchet to turn
the crank with ease without laying under
the car. The other holds the cam
gears rock steady while installing the
timing belt. The front bank on mine
kept jumping off the marks even though
they were perfectly aligned. If anyone
is interested, I could take some pics
and email them to you.
When I
cranked it up after all the fun , it had the same misfire as before.
When I
connect a timing light to #1 the light flashes faster than normal
and then it
skips a flash or two. When connected to #4 (same coil) it
appears normal (ie.
not flashing as fast and it's steady) . Connected to
#2 and #5 it appears
normal. #3 has the same symptoms as #1 and #6
seems to be even worse. Never
seen a timing light act like that.
I'm not sure what to look at next,,,coil
pack, or transistor power pack,,,or what.???
In the mean time, I'm
sending the ECU to AvPro for repairs. I pulled it out and looked at
it, and
sure enough one of the caps has leaked and damaged some of the
circuitry.
Maybe I'll get to drive it again soooon.
I only drive the car for pleasure
(and it IS a pleasure) and I plan on
keeping it pretty much stock. Any
suggestions would be much appreciated.
Thanks again for the great website, and all the folks who participate
on
it.
Gary Walton
Goliad, Texas
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Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2003 21:35:39 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Ignition Problems ?
I would guess you replaced the spark plugs as part of the 60K maintenance.
If not replace them. Plugs can look just fine yet still be bad. Try inexpensive
"copper" plugs such as NGK BCPR6ES-11 if experimenting with different setups or
for testing.
If you did not replace the wires, definitely replace them. Consider going
to one of the several aftermarket wires for our engines (that have lower
resistance than stock wires). Any of them except Magnacor are better than stock.
Magnecor are worse than stock. A list is available on my web page below along
with an explanation of why Magnecor are a very poor choice (much higher
resistance) and why Magnecor's "explanation" of why this is OK is misleading
(skin effect *increases* effective resistance).
While there might be something wrong with the ECU (indicated by leaking
caps), misfires (indicated by your timing light) with *one* cylinder do not
point to the ECU, Power Transistor Unit or even the coil (normally), but to the
wire or plug. It might be possible for a coil to be so weak as to only produce
enough current for the wasted spark (about 3,000-6,000 volts required) but not
enough for the "combustion" spark (12,0000 - 40,000 volts required). The same
thing might also happen if one plug wire has excessive resistance. Swap coils to
see if the problem follows the coil. Our factory coils are excellent and more
than adequate for your stock setup.
------------------------------
I have been having problems with the car taking a long time to start and
now I noticed another strange problem, which hopefully will
add more info to
a possible solution.
Under hard and extended acceleration, such as from a dead stop at the toll
booth on the parkway, when I floored it to go, the car
will accelelerate
fine, but after a few seconds there will be a little burp, and then it will be
fine.
It is not a continuous problem, and it will kind of skip a beat for a
second, then will continue accelerating fine.
That is the only time it does it, and unfortunately I am not on the highway
much as the local roads are horrible for stop and go,
and the main road here,
is just as bad between the traffic and the stop lights.
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Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2003 20:25:56 -0500
From: "Jesse Rink" <
jrink-3si@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Low fuel pressure causing knock with boost?
Another update.
I checked my basic ignition timing the other night and
found it to be around
8-8.5. Spec on my 91 is 5. Is it likely
that the cause of my problems
tuning the (as stated below) with the 550s is
because my timing is advanced?
I'm almost ready to try dropping the timing
back to 5 degrees BTDC and
putting the 550s back in and seeing if I can tune
them without knock for
14psi or so. Not sure if it's worth the
trouble though since the car is
running fine once again with the 360s.
Jesse Rink
Eagle, WI
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Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2003 20:27:59 -0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Low fuel pressure causing knock with boost?
3 degrees shouldn't cause that sort of problem that is related to
the
injectors...
I would reinstall the injectors, and, using the AFC, keep richening
it
up until there is no knock. Change NOTHING else, not boost,
nothing
else... See what it takes, and that will give you an idea what
size the
injectors really are... to me, it sounds like you just got
stock
injectors back...
- -Cody
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Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2003 20:35:53 -0500
From: "Jesse Rink" <
jrink-3si@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Low fuel pressure causing knock with boost?
They are true 550s. Brand new injectors from IPO. Yes, I've
compared them
to another set of 550s from IPO and they are the SAME.
I've also tried the route of richening up the AFC till there is no knock
and
that doesnt work. I was running like -10 at 6psi and .98 volts at
WOT.
Lean it out? O2 still looks fine, and knock hits bad. Add
more boost?
knocks like crazy. I've gone done the whole "richen
the AFC" route
already... it's listed in several previous posts. In
fact, I not only tried
richening, but leaning it out too. So basically
I tired EVERYTHING on the
AFC as for as rich/lean conditions at WOT with
boost from 6-14psi and
NOTHING helped, knock continually showed.
I reinstall the 360s - no knock
at 15psi. It's why I'm still thinking
the timing advance was causing the
problem.....
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Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2003 21:30:26 -0500
From: "John Monnin" <
john.monnin@comcast.net>
Subject:
Team3S: High Flow oil Pump? Were do you get an oilpump tested?
There has been discussion on 3si about high flow oil pumps for 3S'S.
Flatlander racing sells TOGA oil pumps that are supposed to flow
14-20%
ore than stock pumps. I called their technical number and
asked if the
oil pump gears were bigger in diameter or thicker. Phil
(the Tech Guy)
told me "Neither" TOGA just machines the oil pump
gears to much
tighter tolerances preventing less oil to slip past the
gears.
Theoretically this will work but I don't like the idea that if I
tear
one apart it will look just like a stock pump.
Some 3si members want to test a TOGA pump and a stock pump but
don't
know were to have this done, any suggestions?
John Monnin
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Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2003 23:56:40 -0600
From: "Donald Ashby" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Low fuel pressure causing knock with boost?
I'm almost positive at this point it's a problem with the injectors, one of
them must be clogged or
not flowing 100% and so its causing problems in one
cylinder, which wouldn't throw off your o2s but
it would give you
knock.
Donald Ashby
'93 3000GT VR-4 (RIP)
'92 3000GT VR-4
(Vroom!)
"Don't drink and park, accidents cause people!"
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Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 21:13:11 -0600
From: "Paul Rupp" <
3000GT-VR4@acorp.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Replacing Interior Carpet
Does anyone having any experience with replacing your interior
carpet?
How difficult was it? Did you replace it with carpet
specifically
molded/cut for a 3000GT, or how did you do it? What about
the heel pads?
Cost, sources, suggestions?
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#255
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