Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Friday, September 12 2003 Volume
02 : Number 254
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Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2003 01:09:25 +0000
From:
mjannusch@comcast.netSubject: Re:
Team3S: O2 Senosor replacement?????
> There is 87k on the engine that I am rebuilding.
> Should I
replace the O2 sensors now. They are
> still good but should I
replace them while the
> engine is out of the car.
If you are still getting good gas mileage when cruising on the highway,
then
there's probably no reason to replace them yet. I would remove
them and put
antisieze on the threads and reinstall them though. They
can be very
difficult to get out of the O2 housings, and are somewhat
difficult to get at
while on the car if you need to use something other than
an O2 sensor socket.
Generic 4-wire heated sensors will work fine if you splice the proper wires
to
the existing harness (cut a pigtail off the old sensor's cable so you
still
use the stock plug-ins).
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2003 21:30:12 -0500
From: "Jesse Rink" <
jrink-3si@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: O2 Senosor replacement?????
I can't speak to the rear o2 sensor, but the front one took me about an
hour
(engine in the car). It's relatively easy to do, the hard part is
just
busting the thing loose. I bought mine at tallahassee mitsu
for $65 or so.
Jesse Rink
Eagle, WI
------------------------------
Is borla the only company that makes a cat back exhaust system for the
NA's?
I've been searching the net and can't seem to find any others to make
a
comparison with. If there are others that any of you know of who are
they?
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2003 23:37:43 EDT
From:
BHurvitz@aol.comSubject: Team3S: help
broken LED ac/heater screen
Hi,
Does anyone have any ideas on how to repair a LED screen on a 91
stealth.
Is there any one out there that repairs them
Thanks
Bob
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2003 22:46:49 -0600
From: "Paul Rupp" <
3000GT-VR4@acorp.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Low Compression, Smoke after Idle
Help!
Car is a 1994 Mitsu 3000GT VR4, 150K miles, completely stock. Bought the
car
at 109K from a dealership, don't know if 60K was done, didn't know when
I
bought it how important, etc. I never did the 60K. Never had any
problems
except for clutch replacement. I have always had a small problem
with too
much crankcase (?) pressure, and I get some oil residue below the
oil cap,
clearly coming from the oil cap.
A few months ago, car started smoking out the exhaust. This happens after
I
idle, like if I'm sitting in a drive thru, once I give it gas to move on,
I
get **LOTS** of smoke. The longer I have been idling, the more smoke I
get
when I get back on the gas. Once I get back out on the streets,
it
eventually stops, though I do get a much smaller quantity of smoke the
first
few accelerations after idling at a light. The smoke is mostly white,
I
think, and I haven't noticed that it smells particularly sweet. I
haven't
needed to replace coolant. It doesn't seem to smoke at all when I
first
crank it up in the morning. Coincident with the smoke though, I
am burning
oil. Unfortunately I haven't paid attention to how much- I had a
5-quart jug
of oil, and I just put it in as needed. I'd guess a little more
than a quart
a month.
I pulled the plenum, when through the process to replace my spark plugs,
did
some checks while in there. There were no pools of oil in the
Y-pipe, but
there was a thin film on the inside of oil. Film may be too
strong of a
word- residue, maybe? I'd guess from this that turbos are OK for
now?
Anyway, once I got all that done, I read that you might as well do
a
compression test, so I did. The results were all over the map, and
TERRIBLE
compared to spec. Now, I did do the compression test on a cold
engine- I
don't have mechanics gloves, and couldn't figure out how to warm
the engine
up with the plenum and all the hoses etc. pulled off/disconnected
anyway.
(For future reference, how?!)
About the compression test values: Cylinder 2 reached its dry max (70)
in
two equal jumps of the compression gauge. All other cylinders reached
their
max in 6-8 jumps of decreasing size.
Compression Test Results (Cold Engine):
1: 84
3: 108
4: 110
2:
70 (Wet: 88)
4: 136
6: 90
So, with the smoke and low compression readings, any idea what's going
on?
Are they related, or not? Do I kiss the lady goodbye, and try to
sell or
trade 'er in? Or can I spend "a little" bit of money and get
another 150K
miles out of 'er?
Thanks for any suggestions!
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2003 09:51:49 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: help broken LED ac/heater screen
Unfortunately, it's not an LED screen and segments cannot easily be
repaired (it is is a vaccum display..pretty old style). But you shoudl get
the AC control unit at salvage yards or on ebay.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2003 10:05:29 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Low Compression, Smoke after Idle
Everything is pretty clear in your case ... 1 low possibility and 1 high
:
1) heavy carbon buildup around the valves prevent them to close (low and
different compression ratios on all cyls)
2) The smoke at idle is due to oil passing by the rings into the combustion
chamber. This and the comrpession results (I assume you did the compression
test like described in the manual) clearly point to damaged rings. This can
be normal after 120k and very common at 150k depending on how the engine
has been treated.
The task is now that the rings and pistons have to be changed. I don't know
how much this costs at an experienced dealership but it is around $2500
here in Europe.
As you don't know if the car ever saw a 60k service you always rode on the
dark side of the moon. You are lucky that the timing belt did not broke as
this would cause expensive damage to the valves too. Now you have to change
the internals anyways (and check if the valves are still in good shape) and
therefore another 60k (every 60k !!!!). But for sure the tranny and
drivetrain parts do have many miles too ...
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2003 08:29:16 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Parts Wanted
Does anyone have an extra cap that covers the headlight motor laying
around? If so, I am willing to pay top dollar for that little plastic
piece, including shipping! ;) TIA
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2003 09:17:30 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Low Compression, Smoke after Idle
> Anyway, once I got all that done, I read that you might
> as
well do a compression test, so I did. The results
> were all over the map,
and TERRIBLE compared to spec.
> Now, I did do the compression test on a
cold engine -
I once did a compression check on a healthy 6G72 (NA, but same block) when
cold and it showed about 15-25psi low in every cylinder. The NA cars have
a little higher compression to begin with, but that should still be a ballpark
number for the TT engines.
You can check the compression on the front bank cylinders without removing
anything but the spark plugs, wires, and the plastic cover. Just make sure
you hold the throttle plate open while you crank it. That'll give you an
idea of what things look like when warm if you don't want to pull the rear plugs
when the engine's warm.
------------------------------
Two questions:
1. The driver's side half shaft seems to have grown about three inches
in
length. We got the intermediate (center) shaft back in OK. There
doesn't
seem to be any room for adjustment there, because it bolts in. But
the
outer halfshaft appears to be longer than it oughta be, and we can't
get
the spindle in far enough to reach the ball joint.
Did we pull something apart when removing it? Can't see inside because
of
the boots.
If so, how do we get it back together?
2. The radiator doesn't want to bolt back in. It looks flush at the
bottom,
but--like the halfshaft--it seems to have growed a bit since we took
it out
for cleaning, and now the upper mounting brackets on the passenger
side
don't fit. Is there a secret to fitting it back in there?
Rich
------------------------------
Guys, I need some help, Ive got a 91 VR4, yesterday I noticed I had a
leak
towards the back of my vehicle, well its leaking fluid out of the
rubber
boot on the drivers side from the rear steering assembly. (its not the
CV
boot on the rear axle). Does any body have a clue on how to fix
it.
Thanks,
Pete
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2003 15:31:11 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: rear steering
Probably looking at a new rack. Partznet: MR131808, about $500
bucks. Don't know if they are available reconditioned, or if you can just
buy the seals.
Other possibilities (but not likely based upon where you say the leak is
coming from):
Control Valve: No. MB489760
(about $170 bucks on partznet)
Pump, No
MB663840 (about $590 bucks on partznet)
------------------------------
I have a tail light for a 1991 Stealth R/T for sale and a
reverse/reflector light. I also have the center piece
that the
trunk keyhole is in, but it has a small hole from
a rock in it. The
tail light is like new!!! If anyone
needs any of these parts, I will get rid
of them for
CHEAP!
thanks,
Carol Decker
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#254
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