Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Thursday, September 11 2003 Volume 02 : Number
253
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I have been checking a few thigns to see what is the cause of my slow
starting problem. It seems that when the car site for a while
the car
is very hard to start. But if I try and start it very shortly, few
minutes, after it has been run, it cranks right up.
I replaced the fuel filter and that may have helped but it didn't solve the
problem. I pulled the fuel pipe that goes between the
injector rails
and after the car sits for a long time, even overnight, there is fuel in there
but the car still does not start right
away. Sometimes it can take like
10 seconds for it to fire up.
I would hope not to spend a fortune replacing parts, so I was wondering if
there would be a good place to start.
Any suggestions on what would be the
first place to start to replace parts ? FPR ??? The vacuum valve
that controls the FRP ?
I have double and triple checked everything, and there are no leaks of any
kind. The timing is also fine.
------------------------------
I wanted to double check the throttle body gasket to make sure I have it
installed right and was wondering where the tab that is on
the top should be,
in the front or the rear ?
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 11:32:11 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: throttle body gasket question
> I wanted to double check the throttle body gasket to make
>
sure I have it installed right and was wondering where the
> tab that is
on the top should be, in the front or the rear?
Tab goes toward the rear. You can see it in this picture:
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 12:12:06 -0400
From: "Arthurs Family" <
arthursfam@madbbs.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Rod bearing damage
Jim,
If the rod bearing(s) is damaged, you will be able to "rock" the rod on
the
crankshaft with the oil pan off (no easy feat in itself!).
The metallic flakes are probably from post re-build as it's
inconceivable
someone would rebuild without scrubbing oil pan, cooler,
galleries, etc.
Bill (Jon's father) Arthurs
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 11:43:19 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: what to replace for slow starting
> It seems that when the car site for a while the car is
> very
hard to start. But if I try and start it very
> shortly, few
minutes, after it has been run, it cranks
> right up.
Assuming your battery and starter are ok and you have no electrical shorts
or anything that would prevent the starter from operating well, that makes me
extremely suspicious of your fuel pressure, specifically the fuel pump's ability
to quickly generate the required fuel pressure in the fuel rails.
> I would hope not to spend a fortune replacing parts, so I was
>
wondering if there would be a good place to start.
> Any suggestions on
what would be the first place to start to
> replace parts ? FPR
??? The vacuum valve that controls the FRP ?
You can pretty much rule out the FPR solenoid - AFAIK, that's only used
during warm starts and the car will start with it totally disconnected.
It's obvious when it activates in my car as my differential fuel pressure gauge
will show 3.9kg instead of 3.1kg at idle, and warm starts are the only time I've
seen it do that.
If you have access to a fuel pressure gauge, I would install that (even if
only temporarily) to find out whether the fuel pressure is indeed your
problem. You don't want to start replacing things, assuming that you have
low fuel pressure, only to find out that your fuel pressure is fine. Jeff
posted a link to his page on the fuel pressure sending unit, and here is my page
with some more pictures:
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 15:20:09 -0700
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: Team3S:
JDM motors
Anyone here knows a good source for JDM engines? I am looking for a TT
motor
but everyone is out of stock. The one place I found it wants way too
much.
Everyone seems to be expecting more of them in October...
Thanks,
Tyson
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 16:16:36 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Rod bearing damage
Once you pull the pan you can pull the bearing caps and see if there
are
any problems --- if it's bad the rod will have movement. One problem is
that
rod bearings usually fail on the top side so you'll have to push the
piston
up some -- great care should be taken at this point not to score the
crank
surface or push the piston into an open valve. Copper flakes are
not good
but not as bad as bearing parts. It indicates bad wear on a
bearing
so you're down to the copper layer in the bearing --- appearently it
comes
off in ultra thin flakes.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 16:27:59 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Re:
Team3S: New Stock Short Block or Forged Rebuild
I bought through a second party --- Flatlander racing --- so I may
have
hade some markup. The machine work was the same but the pins
were
about $60 more but they were upgraded tool steel pins. My price
on
the pistons was $418. Dale was my contact at Venolia also.
See if you can get a Childs Albert rings, you may have to go to an
odd
size piston but if you're doing a custom application in doesn't make
much
difference --- assuming you're having the block bored. You're going to
have to define a compression ratio so you'll need the volume of
the
combustion chamber. Also have them move the ring pac down as far
as
possible on the piston. I had the thicker ring groves cut to accept
the 1.5
mm rings rather than the standard 1 mm.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 19:57:04 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
From: William Crabtree
<
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: WAS:Stock/Forged Rebuild NOW: Pistons/rings
Hey Jim
I considered ordering from Flatlander, but I changed my mind after speaking
to a guy there. BIGGEST POMPUS ASS ON THE FACE OF THE F-ING PLANET I think
was his name. This guy essentially told me that no one on this list knew
what they were talking about. He was not interested in helping me learn
about what it was I was buying, only interested in selling me something
off-the-shelf and getting me out of his hair. Dunno, maybe he was busy
that day and didn't feel like actually helping a potential customer.
ANYWAY...I won't be ordering from them. After talking to Dale at Venolia
directly, I'd much rather deal with them. Maybe it's a west coast-east
coast thing........I used to live in Cali....
What's the benefit of going with the larger ring? Downside? I
hear alot about the benefits of moly rings? What's the downside
there?
I bought through a second party --- Flatlander racing ---
<<SNIP>>
<<SNIP>>I had the thicker ring groves cut to accept
the 1.5
mm rings rather than the standard 1 mm.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 20:03:41 -0500
From: "Jesse Rink" <
jrink-3si@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Low fuel pressure causing knock with boost?
Update:
I installed a fuel pressure gauge. Fuel pressure was
FINE. No problems
there. Last night I installed my 360s and
pulled out my 550s. Took the car
out tonight, at 1.05 bar, the car has
NO knock whatsoever. So, the only
thing I can think of, is the
car just did not like running the advanced
timing with the 550s. So,
unless I can think of an alternative, I am going
to keep the 360s installed
ofr now. Just thought I'd update you all with
the fix for the
knock problem I was having.
Jesse Rink
Eagle, WI
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 21:26:43 -0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
philip@supercar-engineering.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Low fuel pressure causing knock with boost?
Here is one more thing to try to see if the knock that you were logging was
real. Run some unleaded race gas and see if the knock reading goes away. If
it does, then the knock was a real. If not, then there has never been any
knock and the problem is somewhere else.
Philip
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 20:30:12 -0500
From: "Jesse Rink" <
jrink-3si@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Low fuel pressure causing knock with boost?
I guess I dont understand your theory. Didn't I prove the knock
was real
by reinstalling my 360s and seeing the knock go away
completely?
JRink
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 23:47:20 -0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
philip@supercar-engineering.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Low fuel pressure causing knock with boost?
No, you did not find the source of your knock reading. You do not even know
if the knock is real. Nobody with 550 cc injectors automatically gets knock
problems if they set up their AFC correctly. Even though their ignition
timing becomes a little earlier than before that does not normally result
in a knock if they run less than 15 psi boost.
Okay, this is not a noisy engine mount because you made the knock go away.
And it is also not a knock sensor that went bad coincidentally when you
upgraded the injector because you made the knock go away. It is something
related to your injectors and the AFC. The AFC is a tried and true and
pretty simple (even "dumb") thing. Is it still installed and set to all
zeroes, or you removed or bypassed it? Make sure it is installed. Maybe you
are the lucky one of a million who got a bad AFC. Could it be a noisy
injector that sounds like knock to the knock sensor? If you run race gas
the injectors will still sound the same. Your knock should go away if it
was a real knock (detonation). If not, then it was not a detonation. This
is a simple and a cheap troubleshooting technique to try. Else, there is
not much else you can do except buy yourself a new set on injectors or a
new AFC, or keep the stock 360 cc injectors.
Philip
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2003 13:35:48 -0400
From:
bryan.goldman@ps.ge.comSubject:
Team3S: FYI: Found interchangable ECU for 91-92 SOHC Stealth
I have been looking everywhere for an ECU for my 92 Stealth, mine was
not
repairable and there were none to had anywhere. I came across a
rebuild
company who said that a 92 Montero looked the same on the inside
and
connected up, but he wasn't sure if they were interchangeable. I found
an
ECU for a 92 Montero locally and changed boxes so it would fit my
car,
plugged it up and without missing a beat it started, the check engine
light
went and it runs great as always.
Finally Driving Again,
Bryan Goldman
92 SOHC Stealth
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2003 11:07:20 -0700
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: WAS:Stock/Forged Rebuild NOW: Pistons/rings
I had a good experience ordering Wiseco pistons and Pauter rods
from
RaceEng.com. The guy I talked with was really helpful and answered
a
lot of indepth questions about pistons, rods, and rings.
- - Brian
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2003 19:26:49 -0400
From: "Ved" <
1994TT@comcast.net>
Subject: Team3S:
O2 Senosor replacement?????
There is 87k on the engine that I am rebuilding. Should I replace the
O2
sensors now. They are still good but should I replace them while the
engine
is out of the car. Also, how hard is it to replace them with the
engine in
the car. And the last, where can I find the best deal on O2
sensors if I
have to replace them?
Thanks a lot.
Ved
94 Yellow TT.
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#253
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