Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Monday, September 1
2003 Volume 02 : Number 245
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Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 23:45:52 -0400
From: "Ved" <
1994TT@comcast.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Trans Leak question?
If you don't remember, my trans is out of the car because I'm rebuilding
the
engine. I was cleaning it today and replacing the slave cylinder,
when I
turned the trans on the side. It started leaking. Is it
normal if the
trans leaks fluid out of the front left drive shaft
"hole"?
Thanks a lot again!!!!
Ved.
94 TT.
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 23:58:33 -0400
From: "Ken Stanton" <
ken.c.stanton@usa.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Turbo Lag WAS: MAS MOD Expanded
I've always found that in order to get the best power when turbo lag
is
present, you should tip in slowly. In other words, if you are at low
rpm
(where lag is a big factor), tip in (the throttle) slowest. If you
are at
mid rpm, tip in a bit faster. (etc.)
Ken Stanton
91 Pearl White Stealth TT
Tippin more than the throttle
(and cows)
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Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 23:23:37 -0500
From: "John Monnin" <
john.monnin@comcast.net>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: Rear motor mount replacement
Rich
Remember me at NG03 whining that my clutch was almost gone, well it
was.
I replaced it 2 weeks ago and at the same time I replaced my rear
motor
mount.
The motor mount alone took me a few hours. My
wrist took several days
to heal.
I installed a new stock mount but I wish
I would have installed a 3SX
Poly-mount because I never want to do that
again.
My suggestion is to pull everything you need to pull the
transmission
but leave the transmission attached.
The reason is that with
the transmission out the only way to support
your engine is to jack on the
bottom of the oil pan or the transmission
stays.
Now for directions:
1. Put a jack under the transmission with barely any lifting
force
2. With a 14mm? open end wrench reach around the back of the
engine
mount with you left hand, its not easy but you can do it.
You will
probably have to reach around the front of the engine mount and use
your
finger tips to guide the wrench on the main engine mount nut. Once
it's
on use a 14mm socket wrench to loosen the engine mount bolt.
It took
me hours to figure this out when I rebuilt my engine but it only took
me
only 5 minutes this time.
3. Jack up the engine, via the transmission, up as far as you dare
go
3-5", You may have to remove the transmission mounted engine mount
to
let the engine rise enough.
4. Remove the 2 easy bolts on the rear engine mount, they are the
only
ones you can see.
5. Use a socket with a 4-5" extension loosen the rear inboard
engine
mount.
The extension length is critical you may have to buy some 1"
extensions
to get the right amount.
Too high and you with the turbo
waste-gate, too low and you can't reach
the bolt.
The higher the engine,
the more room you have.
6. The forward In-board bolt is the one that hurt me. The
only way I
could figure out how to get it off was with a 14mm box eng
wrench. I
had to reach behind the rear turbo and contort my wrist
into a position
that OSHA would never approve of. I am a big guy,
my wrist was so
tight that it cut off circulation while I was
working. I would work
the bolt until my hand went numb, then I
would take a 5 minute break to
restore circulation. Taking the
bolt off took me at least 5 breaks and
some bruising around my wrist. It only
took 2 breaks, on a very sore
wrist, to put it back on.
7. Once the bolts are out the engine is probably not high enough to
get
the engine mount out, Rotate the mount 135 degrees and put it
out
upward and rearward, I think.
8. Reverse to install new engine mount.
9. Self medicate with beverage of choice:)
John Monnin
------------------------------
Good gawd!
As I said before, I think I'll wait until:
a. I upgrade
the turbos or
b. Sell the car, and throw in a brand-new rear motor mount with
it (I just
happen to have one!).
I don't know if the rear mount is bad, so all the agony you
describe
doesn't seem worth the trouble. Once we put the tranny back in, it
will be
a marathon session to get the car reassembled anyway.
Rich
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2003 13:04:56 -0400
From: "anthonymelillo" <
anthonymelillo@sprintmail.com>
Subject:
Subject: Team3S: Re: slow starting strangeness
Someone told me that this problem could be caused by a dirty fuel
filter. But I just changed it a few months ago. DO you think
it
could have clogged ?
Also, it was suggested that the problem could be the ISC. I thought
the twin turbo models didn't have that ?
------------------------------
I have a neighbor who's truck failed emissions for NOx. Any
idea what that is and how it can be corrected.
Thanks
Anthony Melillo
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Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2003 15:57:44 -0400
From: "Ken Stanton" <
ken.c.stanton@usa.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: OT: emissions question
Tell him to hook up his EGR valve again. haha
Did he fail anything else? If not, I would suspect that this test was
done
at some speed, and the EGR valve is the main control of NOx. If
there is a
vacuum leak, bad exhaust to EGR gasket leaking, or a broken EGR
pipe
(happened to me), those are the most likely culprits. Check those,
and
maybe post the exact results of the tests... I'm real in to emissions so
I
would like to see, for one.
Ken Stanton
91 Pearl White Stealth TT
MSEE, Virginia
Tech
Automotive Control Systems
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2003 14:41:18 -0400
From: "Arthurs Family" <
arthursfam@madbbs.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Fw: Transfer Case Joy!
Greetings All,
A tip of the hat is due to Daimler Chrysler!
A short time back Jon's transfer case on his '92 Stealth RT/TT
failed.
The failure was in the "classic" manner, meaning, oil loss, and
lockup. We
purchased new t-case and exhaust gaskets/nuts necessary to
change out
from local Chrysler dealer's parts dept. Parts arrived in 2
days and he was
rolling again on the 3rd.
Since I own the vehicle, I submitted a bill to Daimler Chrysler in
accord
with the "work previously completed" terms of the recall. I
billed for
all parts, the towing charge, and also the .6 hour labor allowed
by Chrysler
to complete the fix.
Just 12 days after mailing my bill, a check arrived for the
complete
amount submitted!
Yes, in this instance praise is due to Daimler Chyrsler for their
prompt
handling of what I have seen on these pages as a very "delicate"
issue.
Once again, thanks to all who participate here for the help & tips
re
these cars!
Bill (Jon's father) Arthurs
Jamestown, NY
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2003 23:15:13 -0500
From: "Jesse Rink" <
jrink-3si@wi.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Low fuel pressure causing knock with boost?
Hey gang,
Pardon my ignorance on the subject, but I've only learned
about fuel
pressure in the last 3 hours I spent reading Jeff L's site and a
few other
various places.
My problem: Crazy knock counts (pocketlogger) when going above
6psi.
Mentionable mods: 550cc injectors, Walbro pump, and stock turbos.
Here's the deal. I've been trying to tune my new AFC-II unit.
I'm getting
crazy knock counts (10-25) on my pocketlogger even at less than
9psi. Right
now, I'm running 6.5psi, and in order NOT to get knock
during my 3rd gear
pulls from 1500rpm to 4000rpm (I haven't even TRIED tuning
hte upper rpm
band yet), I have had to set my AFC-II points to roughly around
-15 to -18
in the 1500-4000rpm range. That seems massively rich for
550s. The leaner
I go, the more knock I get. My O2s seem ok on my
pocketlogger too, nothing
out of whack. (.94-.98).
I'm starting to suspect that maybe the problemis related to fuel pressure
or
my FPR. I'm guessing MAYBE when my boost increase, my fuel pressure
isn't.
I read on Jeff L's website that as boost pressure raises 1 psi, so
should
fuel pressure raise 1 psi. I'm wondering if maybe I"m NOT
getting the
necessary fuel pressure which is causing me to have to turn my
AFC so rich
in order to keep up with fuel demands since the pressure isn't
there.
This is a wild stab in the dark. But I'm kinda stuck with
ideas... Is low
fuel pressure a possibility as to why my car knocks
like crazy with even
moderate levels of boost?
Jesse Rink
Eagle, WI
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#245
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