Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Sunday, August 31
2003 Volume 02 : Number 244
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We are replacing the tranny, so we have just about every conceivable
part
off the car, top and bottom. Nothin' left in there but a lil ol motor
and
some hoses.
Seems like this would be an ideal time to replace the rear motor mount,
but
we can't figure out how to do it.
We can barely see one or two of the 4 bolts -- and this is with
the
downpipe, halfshafts, transfer case, tranny, crossmember and every
other
dadgum component off the car. As near as we can tell, we still have
to
disassemble the rear turbo heat shield and maybe even remove the rear
turbo
to gain access to the motor mount.
Izzat true? Or are we missing something obvious?
Rich/unmounted old poop
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2003 20:12:14 -0700
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Rear motor mount replacement
Rich, I have heard of people doing this with the engine in the car, I
don't
know how. I just got done putting my engine back in and just to get
that
stupid thing to line up, took 3 lifts and drops of the engine. The
rear
mount is the worst. I would say, if its not toast, leave it. If its
toast,
pull the motor. Chances are, after much bleeding and cursing, you will
get
the mount out, but I doubt that you will be able to get another one back
in
and align correctly.
Tyson
------------------------------
At 08:12 PM 8/30/2003 -0700, Tyson Varosyan wrote:
>Rich, I have
heard of people doing this with the engine in the car, I don't
>know how.
I just got done putting my engine back in and just to get that
>stupid
thing to line up, took 3 lifts and drops of the engine. The rear
>mount is
the worst. I would say, if its not toast, leave it. If its toast,
>pull
the motor. Chances are, after much bleeding and cursing, you will get
>the
mount out, but I doubt that you will be able to get another one back
in
>and align correctly.
>
Pull the motor? To do that, I would
have to be able to reach the rear motor
mount to unbolt it. I don't see how
to get to the sumbitch. Maybe it would
be easier to see if the car is on a
lift, but just laying on the ground
underneath, with the car on jackstands,
it looks like a very difficult
task. In fact, as you suggest, we have decided
to leave it until we upgrade
the turbos. Still, I was wondering if it is
possible.
Rich/unmounted old poop
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 01:21:48 -0700
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Rear motor mount replacement
To get the motor out, you have to only take out one bolt, the center
one
that hold the motor to the block. Its not fun, but much easier than
pulling
the whole mount with the engine in there...
Tyson
------------------------------
I changed the fuel filter a couple of months ago when I did the 60k
service.
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 13:56:49 -0700 (PDT)
From:
chfmn@webtv.net (Walter Womack)
Subject:
Team3S: ECM problem?
Car was running fine.Had been for a long time.(92 Stealth tt).At
approx
45 mph car just quit.The smell of something burning permeated the air
in
the cabin.Pulled the ECM.Sure enough there had been a little fire in
the
box.Lots of smokey parts and a hole thru the fiber glass
board.Purchased
rebuilt ECM from Motor Logic San Diego Ca.Installed rebuilt
ECM..Starts
as well as it ever did.Runs thru low RPM's fine.Good
power,however,when
I hit the magic number 4500 rpm in any gear it
looses
power,spits,stutters,backfires and does not allow the motor to rev
any
higher.Nice big clouds of black smoke also.Put it in the garage
and
rev it up with no load and it responds correctly through out the
entire rpm
range all the way to redline.Did I buy a faulty ECM? Or is it
just a
coincidince? Besides paying the tech $110.00 is there anyway to
find out
myself? Thanks guys!
92 RTTT Pearl White
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 16:32:18 -0500
From: "Jesse Rink" <
jrink-3si@wi.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: new AFC-II install problems?
I just installed an AFC-II last night. I went to datalog and tune
today and
was getting knock counts anywhere from 10-25 during WOT. This was
at .55bar
even.
I'm running 9Bs with a hotwired Walbro pump, and 550cc injectors. O2s at
WOT
were anywhere from .90-.98 depending on how my AFC was setup. I
tried
everything from super rich at -18 across the board to -30 across the
board
and still saw knock hitting 10-25 even at low rpms of 2500... No matter
what
settings I tried, it just didn'st seem to fix the knock.
Perplexed, I headed home. I should also note, that the car runs great
during
daily driving. Lo fuel trim was around 81 and mid around 96. The HI
trim
never adjusted, it was at 100 (I'm not sure I drove the car where the
HI
would even have mattered).
In my garage, for kicks, I messed with the AFC's Lo setting at 800rpm
(my
first rpm point) to change the idle around and get my O2s lookin'
better
(cycling). This is the weird thing -> Whether my AFC was set for
-50 or +25,
it idled the SAME. I'm guessing at -50 the car SHOULD have died,
same as
+25. But kept idling along like no problem....
What the heck? Again, my daily cruise seems great, the car runs very
good.
but the weird idle has me guessing, and so does the knock counts in my
3rd
gear pulls.
I started to thinking: WIRING. But, if the unit was wired wrong, how
the
heck would it be running so good at daily cruise? The idle has me
worried
too. Adjusting to -50 and +25 should have killed the engine I'm
thinking
wiht my 550s.
Any ideas?
Thanks
Jesse Rink
Eagle, WI
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Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 15:40:03 -0700
From: "Erik Petterson" <
erik@microworks.net>
Subject:
Team3S: New Website - The 3000GT & Stealth Audio FAQ
Hello listmembers. For the last couple weeks I have been working
on
creating a FAQ website for the Audio section of the 3SI.org forums, and
for
all 3000GT & Stealth owners. The site mainly links to other
"How To's" and
other Audio/Car Stereo sites, most relate specifically to our
cars. There
are a couple write-ups on there that I have done
also... Including the
recent "Din Cable to Line Out Harness" originally
released to this list by
email by Jeff Crabtree.
I would love some more Input/Feedback on it - There is a link on the
3SI.org
forums in the Audio Section for Comments/Suggestions, also an email
link on
the page itself, or you can respond back through email off
list.
Hopefully you will find it useful for questions about your 3/S's Car
Stereo,
and worthy of adding to your bookmarks/favorites.
Also, if anyone has any stats on the stock amp that is under the
passenger
seat, mainly concerning watts/ohms and other related stats.
And exactly how
the crossover works in the amp for the door/dash
speakers. Thanks
- -Erik
'94 R/T
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 20:41:00 -0400
From: David Friedlander <
forzion@maine.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Power Antenna Madness
Hey folks;
I have now replaced the mast on my power antenna because, of course,
it
was broken. I also found the broken length of the mast within
the
antenna housing and removed it. When I reassembled and reinstalled
the
antenna with the new mast , it extended to full length and began
a
grinding sound of gears trying to extend the antenna beyond
the
fully-extended shaft length. After another removal complete
disassembly
of the antenna, I have checked every gear within and there are no
broken
teeth. I applied some white lithium grease,
re-reassembled,
re-reinstalled it and the same grinding still happens! Is
there a
position sensor in the antenna that's supposed to tell the thing to
stop
trying to extend it? The new mast nylon "tail" isn't broken (yet) but
it
probably won't take too much more of this. The grinding sound goes
on
for at least 10 seconds after full extension has been completed. By
the
way, when retracting, it works perfectly! No grinding. Any ideas?
I'd
replace the whole unit but it's over $300!!
Dave
'94 SL
------------------------------
I know exactly what you mean, Erik. You have stock turbos IIRC, is that
right? I have 15G's that spool up just as fast, at least I can't tell the
difference. But even then, there is a huge delay in some turns between the
moment when I step on gas and the moment when I get power. I wish there was
none.
Maybe if I upgrade the clutch and the seat and the harness, I would be able
to clutch the car a little out of some of the turns. Knowing how easy it is
to do on a motorcycle, I sometimes I miss the ability to control the
clutch, gas, front brake, rear brake, steering and the shifter at the same
time.
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 20:24:21 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Turbo Lag WAS: MAS MOD Expanded
In an autocross run you can left foot brake to help keep the boost
up.
On a track that technique is not particularly useful since you can burn
your brakes to the ground in a lap or two. There is also the problem
of
losing vacuum to the brake booster if you don't allow the manifold
pressure
to drop into the negative range.
Jim Berry
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#244
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