Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Thursday, August 28
2003 Volume 02 : Number 241
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 10:14:15 -0400
From: James Matherly <
jemather@umich.edu>
Subject: Team3S:
Tranny install
I replaced the clutch in my '92 R/T TT last night, and started to put
the transmission back on. Our original assessment for reinstalling the
tranny involved three people, a 12 pack, and a lot of cursing.
Unfortunately, two of those fell through. Two of us, a couple tow
straps, and a lot more cursing took up the slack. Right until we got
to the point of getting the input shaft on the transmission into the
clutch assembly. It just won't go on. Adam and I reeked and beat
and
spun and yelled until about midnight last night and had no luck. I
distinctly remember this feeling as being similar to when we put the
transmission back in my A/T Eclipse GSX - complete futility. I called
several of my friends during that project and they described fitting
the
torque convertor as "square peg - square hole" which made me feel
like I was
going back to pre-school, but didn't solve the problem.
Point is,
anybody got any suggestions on getting that input shaft into
the
clutch?
Adam and I noticed that until the transmission is installed, the clutch
disk has a possibility of not being centered behind the pressure plate.
We eyeballed that as best we could before we torqued down the
pressure
plate bolts, and right as we brought the transmission into place we
both looked at each other and said "the clutch disk is centered,
right?"
because I don't know how to fix it unless we take the tranny
back off, which
I don't really want to do.
------------------------------
well, the day has finally come. I just blew the rear turbo...
haven't
checked for any casing damage or damage to the front turbo yet but
I'm
assuming that if you replace one you have to replace them both. As of
right
now, i need options... help guys, plz...
this car is my daily driver and as such I don't want anything that
will
require any additional mods ( navy salaries kind of slim )... i
was
thinking about upgrading to 13G's... if anyone knows where i can get
my
turbos rebuilt into 13G's or where i can buy a pair cheep please let
me
know...
any other recommendations or options i might have missed are
greatly
appreciated...
- -ryan-
91 VR-4 (bone stock)
------------------------------
At 10:14 AM 8/27/2003 -0400, James Matherly wrote:
>I replaced the
clutch in my '92 R/T TT last night, and started to put
>the transmission
back on. Our original assessment for reinstalling the
>tranny
involved three people, a 12 pack, and a lot of cursing.
>Unfortunately, two of those fell through. Two of us, a couple tow
>straps, and a lot more cursing took up the slack. Right until we
got
>to the point of getting the input shaft on the transmission into the
>clutch assembly. It just won't go on.
Oh, no! I have to do that next. My resident transmission guru, who has
been
through this five times (mine is his 6th) says the best way is with four
guys:
One on top of the engine to guide it in.
One on the jack to raise/lower
and move it in and out.
and two under the tranny doing bench presses from
each side.
He also suggests removing a rubber/plastic plug from the top of the
tranny
so you can see inside to do the alignment. He says you can put the
plug
back in after the tranny is installed. We haven't done this yet, but
he
seems to know what he's talking about. Now THERE is something that
deserves
a photo.
Other than that, I can't help you. It took 6 of us all day
Saturday
(working in shifts) to get it out, with three of us doing the
final
transmission drop. When the Kormex gets here, I'll be sure to have at
least
4 guys and a case of beer to do the benchpresses and put it back
in.
I will be watching this thread carefully to see if anyone passes along
a
secret other than "use four guys."
Rich/slow old poop/trasmissionless VR4
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 09:45:24 -0500
From: "xwing" <
xwing@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Tranny install
You should be using a little plastic tool 5" long or so that has
splines
just like the trans input shaft, called the "clutch alignment tool",
to
center the disc inside the clutch before torqueing the pressureplate
bolts
down. RPS sends one along "free" with some of their clutches;
dealer
probably has them too. If you use the tool properly, it works
fine. Use
the tool, and it centers it pretty well, but I also move it a
little
up/down/side/side to really try to have it EXACTLY centered...there
are
tolerances in there that if you just stuff it in, it could be
slightly
up/down/side/side oriented, which might still work but not as
WELL. So, if
you use it and jockey it around so you know you are REALLY
centered that is
the best...have had almost no problems with this on many
trans R&R's with
the Mitsu.
My Pontiac, that bugger almost never wants to get on the input
shaft...
Good luck!
JT
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 09:46:01 -0500
From: "William J. Crabtree" <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Tranny install
Ted,
Search the archives, or the
member's sites, there's something about
swinging the tranny into position
from 90? at the top of the motor, this is
SUPPOSED to make installing a
breeze. Have I tried it? NO. (ANYONE OUT
THERE FAMILIAR
WITH THIS?) The last time I removed the tranny and had to
reinstall, I
did it just the way you're doing it. A WHOLE LOTTA GRUNTING
AND
CUSSING. Finally, it just WENT. Can't really explain it, but it
just
DID. If it weren't for that damn frame crossmember..........
ONE WAY...and I know that most
of you will dismiss this as an option, is to
pull the motor and the tranny as
a unit and reinstall them in the car the
same way. You would not
BELIEVE how much easier this is than getting that
damn
getrash...er....I....uh....mean getrag back into place with the motor
in the
engine compartment.
Best of luck. Happy grunting. Happy cussing. (you know
you're doing it
right when you're inventing cuss words)
- -Jeff C.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 16:51:28 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Tranny install
>> I will be watching this thread carefully to see if
>>
anyone passes along a secret other than "use four guys."
Two guys, no alcohol (till after done, then add pizza or two), one 3-ton
hydraulic jack, three jack stands, one transmission jack, one clutch alignment
tool, pry bars (or long heavy duty screwdrivers), misc. hand tools, 3 qts
Pennzoil Synchromesh trany fluid.
Tip: fill trany before installing to check for **leaks** then drain fluid
back out. You wouldn't want to install a leaky trany and risk it running out of
fluid and self destructing. :)
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 08:42:57 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Tranny install
One of the things I did [ inadvertently ] was to have the rubber coated
metal
plug on the end of the tranny removed --- I had it off because I had
disassembled the tranny. That allows you to rotate the input shaft as
you
move the tranny --- on the transmission jack --- . You can feel when the
shaft
is in contact with the clutch plate, you can feel the splines touching.
The cap
is just pressed into a recess and can be pried out with a small
screwdriver and
tapped back into place.
I like the idea of pulling the rubber boot at the front and being able to
see
the shaft although I've never tried it.
FWIW --- some folks do it alone although I found that one slightly
used
son-in-law works fine. The insertion of the tranny took us about 20
minutes and
we did the PP/disk alignment by eye although an alignment tool
would have
been better.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 11:48:46 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Tranny install
I did my clutch with three guys. One working on top with the plug
out, one working the jack (that was me), and another doing leg presses from the
passenger side to press the tranny into the clutch disk. After you get the
shaft "close," insert the passenger side halfshaft into the tranny, put the
tranny in gear, and rotate the half shaft slowly. This will rotate the
input shaft slowly, which will help you line up the splines in the shaft with
the splines in the clutch disk.
Hopefully you're using a tranny jack because, if you're not, you'll be
there forever. You need something very stable to guide the shaft into the
clutch disk.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 00:29:01 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Wash/Wax
Hey, Carol,
'Zactly right. You 'might' need to "clay" the car, but if someone is
offering
to do 'whatever it takes' to detail the car *properly* - such as to
clean
*and* clay *and* wax it for $100, I'd call that a bit suspect...
It's way
more work than that if you've got mysterious water spots...
"Claying" is
what's needed if the finish has baked-on dust/dirt from years of
neglect. If
you close your eyes and rub your fingers over the finish
(*after* you have
removed the sap with a product that's specifically designed
to do so), if it
still feels rough, you will need to "clay it". If you
only have a sap
problem, with a good, well-cared-for finish below it, all you
need is the sap
remover, followed by one of the 2- and 3-step refinishing
kits, like those
offered by Mothers, Meguiars, and others... An orbital
buffer would help, if
you are helplessly into "DIY mode"...
;-)
Look at the Team3S FAQ Index Page (in the Cosmetics section) for the link
to
the article about "How to Detail your Car Like a Pro", by Team3S member
Gregg
Couture (who does "detailing" for a living). There are links at
the end of
the page to the Meguiars, Mothers, and Zymol websites, among
others... Those
website are another whole education in
themselves. "Read all about it" -
you'll be an expert by the time
you're done. Gregg's article is top-notch!
Good luck!
PS: (Unabashed Plug!) Gregg also offers "Identity Kits"
(windshield and
side-window decals) for both 3000GT and Stealth at
www.identitykits.com/
- ---Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 13:53:48 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: turbo upgrade
Finding reliable rebuilds on turbos is tough - many folks have said that
there
are NO great turbo places out there. But the best I could find is
Performance
Techniques, (which happens to be very close to where the USS
Duluth is,
FYI...)
http://www.turbocharged.com/. They
so good that even my installer
shop is now using PT for their rebuilds for
other cars. There's a bit of a
'saga' here, so I'll tell you the whole
deal...
Performance Techniques did the rebuild for the previous owner of my '91
VR-4
(the stock 9b's were unrepairable, so they put *new* 9b cartridges in
the TD04
housings in March - I think the cost for two *new* 9b cartridges was
~$800+).
I ran the car once at the track, and even though I was only running
stock
boost (6psi), the rear turbo failed - apparently some dirt got in there
and
trashed it, but they were going to replace it for free, under
warranty. Since
I don't do this kind of work myself, my installer sent
them both back for a
rebuild and checkup, and I spoke to the guy at PT
myself. He asked if I
wanted to upgrade, since I was already spending
the money for labor to have
them removed and reinstalled.
It turns out that PT is a supplier to many of the 3S shops who package
his
cartridges in custom housings and give them new names. (I don't
know which
shops' turbos he does...) He suggested a 13C cartridge
(which I had never
heard of) as being in between the output of the GTPro 347
(which is 13g's, I
think) and the GTPro 357 Magnum (which they call the "17g
killer"). It
would cost ~$600 more to upgrade...
Instead of the typical 15-degree clip on
the turbine wheels, he said that I
would have fewer spool-up issues for road
racing with a 5-degree clip.
That's what I ordered, and the installer put
them in. The rear one
failed almost immediately. The shop had put it in with
the washer
uncentered, and a piece of it fell in and trashed the turbo.
They
admitted their error, and did the reinstall for free. And PT
replaced the
turbo for free as well - they honored their warranty again, and
they didn't
even charge me for shipping.
I don't remember the exact total amount that PT charged, but $1400
(and
change) is still a bit less than the $1500 that GTPro charges for the
(much
smaller) GT347's and way less than the (only slightly bigger) $2000
GT357's.
The great prices are because PT are a "Good Guys" vendor who gives
discounts
to Team3S (their info is on the Good Guys page). The head guy
there, "Jamie",
is really helpful and well informed, and he is very familiar
with our turbos.
Ask for the Team3S discount, but also tell Jamie that you're
'Navy' - he'll
take care of you.
On a military salary, you might want to just stick with a simple 9b
repair
(you'll have to ask Jamie for a price), but if you have the money to
'go
bigger', I really recommend these 13C's. They're a whole lot
stronger than
the normal 13g upgrade (mine was dyno'd at 409hp). A
couple of pro drivers
drove my VR-4 at the Reno-Fernley track, and even with
the lower power you get
driving at 5000 feet altitude, they both said in
effect, "this thing just
wants to keep pulling"! The only cars I
couldn't keep up with on the
straights were two Lingenfelter Vettes - one
with 450hp and the other with
650hp, both 800 lbs lighter than my
car...
The one possibly negative comment about installing 13C's is that I don't
know
if you'll need other mods to support them. I'm pretty sure that
you can use
stock injectors and fuel pump with 13g's, but I think you'll need
at least an
SAFC and boost controller with 13C's (around $340 and up for
both). I have
550 injectors, Supra pump, SAFC-II and Dual BC on mine,
but I'll let the
list's turbo experts give you the details on what you'll
actually *need* if
you choose to upgrade your turbos bigger than
13g's... No matter what, talk
to Jamie and see what he'll do for
you.
Best,
Forrest
------------------------------
> Oh, no! I have to do that next. My resident
> transmission guru,
who has been through this
> five times (mine is his 6th) says the
best
> way is with four guys:
Four guys? Bah...
Two guys with a good clutch alignment tool and a floor jack will get it
done
without a problem. If you are built like a bear, one guy can push
it up in
there alone (I know a guy who routinely does this). Its
actually much easier
to do it without a jack if you are strong enough to
lift it.
If you aren't strong enough to push it up there yourself, then an engine
hoist
and a few ratcheting tiedown straps will allow you to pull it up and
maneuver
it however you want, without the danger of dropping it on your
floor/foot/chest/head/whatever. I've done three clutch jobs that way,
no
problems whatsoever.
If you get the angles and alignment right, it really isn't that*
difficult.
The trick is to get it right and THEN push on it.
Don't just start pushing
hoping it'll just happen to go on.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
> Adam and I noticed that until the transmission
> is installed,
the clutch disk has a possibility
> of not being centered behind the
pressure plate.
You've really got to use a clutch centering tool to get it right. If
you
don't have one, I think one of my 1/2" drive Craftsman sockets worked as
a
makeshift tool. It might've been the 3/8" size with the big drive
end that
worked well. Slide it into the hole in the flywheel and the
plate should fit
snugly on the socket to align it.
Alignment tool kits are also usually available for rent at local auto parts
stores, or can be bought for around $15-25.
If you didn't eyeball the disc alignment REAL close, I'd start over - as
bad
as that sounds. If you can't slide the tranny over the dowel pin
guides
later, you are pretty much screwed. You don't want to force it
either as
it'll rack on the input shaft bearings.
Best to do it the right way if at all possible...
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Hey Folks, does anybody know the part # for the Y-pipe? I know I was
on a website beofer that was gat and listed all our part numbers but
can
not find that URL.,
Thanks in advance.
Chip
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 15:56:00 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: y
pipe
CAPS sez --- MD161557
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 19:20:06 -0400
From: "Ved" <
1994TT@comcast.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Changing trans fluid???
My short block should be done next week so I will be putting the motor
and
the trans back into the car soon. There is 87k on the car should I
change
the trans fluid while the trans is out of the car. I so, what's
the best
way to do it???
Thanks a lot...
Ved... 94 TT
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 16:23:25 -0600 (MDT)
From: Jim Floyd <
jim_floyd7@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Changing trans fluid???
I don't know the best way to do but replace it with BG Sychro or something
better than stock.
------------------------------
Hello,
Today was a horrible day for my car. ;(
It rolled
over to 100000 miles on the way to get it
aligned. Then at the dealer
I was told that last Feb.
when I bought the rear wheel bearings I took the
stupid
route and replaced the bearings only. Now one of my
bearings are bad again because the hub assembly. At
Autozone it is
77.99 for the part. I need the part number
from Mitsubishi though so I
can compare it to Rockville
...if anyone happens to know it, or a way to get
it while
Rockville is closed, please e-mail me back. My Autozone
closes in 3 hours.
Thank you,
Carol Decker
1991 Stealth R/T
TT
------------------------------
Hello,
I recently purchased a defogger/ESC switch off of Ebay.
In my knowledge of switches from my Talon and my Stealth
they are
supposed to click and stay in and then click back
out when you click them
again. On the defogger/ECS switch
is it supposed to just connect a
circuit and come back out
until you click it again? When I got my
"new" ones from
ebay they do not stay in, I thought that is what was wrong
w/ my old ones, but I suppose it is possible that the
connector is
bad?
I guess I should have asked this before I e-mailed the
person
I got them from and told them I was going to leave
bad
feedback.
Thanks,
Carol Decker
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 17:02:57 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Defogger Switch
As far as I know, the switches on the left of the gauge cluster (Fog and
Pop-up Lights) are the on-off type. The switches on the right (ECS and
Defogger) are the momentary-contact type. At least mine are :-) They
do not stay in/on when pushed.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 17:04:36 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Hub Assembly
Not sure just what you're looking for but CAPS shows a rear
axle and hub
assembly --- MB664902 --- shaft assy, RR axle quanity 2
Rockville shows a
price of about $140.
It look to be a mounting flange, a housing with bearings and the
wheel
mounting hub with wheel studs.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 21:26:02 -0500
From: "Jesse Rink" <
jrink-3si@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: car wont start - VERY detailed description inside
UPDATE:!!!!!!
Last Night
Took the fuel pump assembly out of the car.
Measured the resistance across
the wires from the black connector to the pump
itself for both + and - .
Both showed 0 ohms so the wires seemed good.
Tonight
Installed the fuel pump assembly back in the car but left the
hard line hose
disconnected from the main fuel line and hooked up a hose to
it with the
ohter end going to a gallon of milk (empty). I applied 12v
battery power to
the fuel pump and the pump was spitting out alot of gas into
the milk
container. Diagnosis -> Pump is good.
Then, I reconnected the fuel hard line from the pump assembling
to
underneath the car where it meets the other hard line. Next, I
disconnected
the fuel return line of the FPR. I added another hose to
the FPR that went
to an empty plastic water bottle. Again, I applied
12v battery to the pump
and gas spewed into the water bottle. Diagonsis
-> Fuel was making it to
the rails and back without problem.
Finally I hooked everything back up to the FPR and tried starting the
car
again for kicks. It cranked, fired, and ran perfectly.
Diagnosis? Who the hell knows!
Possible cause -> A pinched wire on the fuel pump assembly before that
was
fixed after I reinstalled it tonight.
Since the walbro fuel pump was installed on the car 2 weeks ago, the
gas
gauge has not worked. It kept reading "E". Obviously the
float was junk
kinked or stuck, no big deal. That gas gauge now works,
and so does the
car. I'm GUESSING there was another kinked wire or
something that got fixed
when I took out, and reinstalled the fuel pump
assembly. NOTHING else was
changed.
So. I'll try driving it short distances over hte next few days with a
FULL
set of tools, electrical wire, multimeter, parts, etc. in the event
it
suddenly DIES again. But for now, the problem seems fixed,
although I'm
not sure WHY.
FRUSTRATING!!!!!
- - Jesse Rink
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 21:28:06 -0700
From: "Andrew D. Woll" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Wash/Wax
If you are looking for fast and allmost perfect, then NuFinish is a
great
product. I use it all the time. If you are looking for
absolutely perfect
then it is a multi step process.
1. Wash, Wash, Wash. First with Dawn, to get off old wax. Then
with
Meguires Scrub to start the process of getting off oxidation.
2. Using the finest compound you
can, polish out the car using a porter
cable buffer. Griots sells these and
the price is just a little high. They
are available elsewhere for less but
Griots is a good store and will stand
behind their products. You are
wrong if you think polishing by hand will do
a better job. I thought
this for years until I tried a PC. I am converted.
Your hands simply cannot
do the job a polisher will do. If the paint is in
good shape try
Meguires Red Polish. It has no abrasives - just polish. If
that
does not do enough then use Meguires fine cut in the tan bottle.
If
that doesn't do it then your paint has big problems, but you can try
the
medium cut in the tan bottle.
3. After the car is as brilliant as it will look with wax on then
apply
Zaino for clear coat paints. In the summer you do not need the
hardener.
Zaino can go on in the sun, as can Nu Finish.
4. Assuming you got a six pack before you began then take one out,
tilt it
up, and admire what will now be an unbelievably brilliant car with
a
bulletproof finish that will need nothing but washes (with Meguaires
car
wash) for the next four to six months depending on use and cover at
night
and day.
Andy
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 00:04:30 -0500
From: "William J. Crabtree" <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Forged pistons, too many choices...
Hi Guys
Don't know if you've been paying
attention or not, but I had to tear my
motor down again. I had a thrust
bearing fail and the crank destroyed
itself and the block in the
aftermath. But that was only the beginning of
the bad news.
Today, my machine shop called and asked me to come over and
take a look at my
old pistons. It seems that my stock style pistons had
overheated and
expanded to the point that the skirt was scraping the
cylinder wall.
GREAT. I thought I was going to get by with just replacing
the crank
and block, now I'm in for new pistons.
I've read up on the forged and
I'm going to go that way in an effort to
prevent this from occurring
again. I've looked at Jeff Lucius' upgrade
guide and I'm even more
confused than before. It seems as though I can
spend anywhere from $600
to $1500 on new pistons, so which are the best
value? Money IS a factor
for me, but I want to do the right thing. So what
is the best balance
of cheap versus performance?
As always, thoughts and experience is gladly accepted.
- -Jeff Crabtree
St. Louis,
MO
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 22:28:21 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Forged pistons, too many choices...
You should be able to buy a premium set of forged pistons, rings and
pins
for $ 700 or so. Make sure to get floating pins --- that means the small
end
of the stock rods must have bushings installed. If you're putting
in new
forged rods they will probably be floating rather than pressed.
Below is a link to Flatlander racing who offers Ross, J&E, Wiesco and
others.
I got a set of custom Venolia pistons, rings and tool steel pins from
them for
about $800.
What you're looking for is low or no silicone forged aluminum pistons with
floating pins. I went with a custom piston because I wanted to define
the
compression ratio and I wanted the ring pack to be as low on the piston
as
possible without encroaching on the pin hole. Lowering the ring pack
allows
the first ring land to be thicker and thus able to resist detonation
better.
Make sure the machinist uses the proper bore clearance and the
proper
cylinder wall RA. RA is the average surface roughness is critical for
proper ring sealing.
Make sure the machinist uses a torque plate when boring the block.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Can anyone give me a sugestion to remove the fuel line from the top of
the
assembly which goes down into the tank. I have yanked on this for days
and
it won't even budge a fraction of an inch. I am trying to diagnose
a
starting/running problem.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 08:03:52 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Changing trans fluid???
I use Redline MT-90. Pull the plug, drain the fluid, clean the
magnet. Then replace the plug, open the fill plug, and run a piece of
clear vinyl hose (it's either 3/8 or 1/2) into the fill hole and up to the top
of the engine compartment. Attach the hose to the bottle of fluid, and
presto. Make sure the car is on a level surface. when the oil starts
coming out of the fill hole, you're full.
------------------------------
I had the same problem on my 92 sohc Stealth. I took it loose from under
the
rt rear wheel where it connects to the gas line with a pair of vice
grips
and the correct wrench. The problem ended up being the ECU which I
found an
individual who repairs yours for $125.00 - $150.00 and wont charge
you if he
can't fix it. Good luck.
92 sohc
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 16:07:55 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Fuel Line
If you are just testing for fuel flow, that is, reasonable operation of the
pump, filter, lines, and FPR, then go to the engine bay, remove the battery and
tray, and disconnect the rubber fuel return hose from the metal return tube. Use
the check connector in the engine bay to apply +12v to the pump circuit (jumper
cables from removed battery to ground and check connector will do) and observe
for flow (apply current *briefly* if using a rag).
To check only the pump, with the ignition switch off use the check
connector to supply +12v to the pump circuit and listen for the pump operating.
Normally the fuel pump only runs when the engine is being cranked by the starter
or is running and a good CAS is received by the ECU.
If you are determined to disconnect the supply line at the pump assembly be
sure you are turning it the right way (the "nut" on the assembly side does not
turn and the top of the "nut" on the tube side will rotate toward the outside of
the car). Also try a penetating oil such as Aerokroil by
http://www.kanolabs.com/ . I let this stuff
work on the connector you mentioned and the other end of the supply tube in the
engine bay for 1 minute and had no trouble loosening the connectors.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 07:38:16 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Changing trans fluid???
FWIW --- when draining any assembly that has a drain plug and a fill
plug
it's wise to loosen the fill plug first and then drain the unit.
There's
nothing worse than draining the tranny then stripping the fill plug
trying to
remove it. You now have an immobile-mobile.
Jim Berry
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#241
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