Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth    Monday, August 25 2003    Volume 02 : Number 239




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Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 20:24:47 -0500
From: "brock gamble" <brockgamble@sio.midco.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: spoiler brake light

I could try i guess but when i had it off it looked like it was all formed
together and that by taking it apart i'd be more likely to break it than fix
it. Maybe I just didn't look at it close enough but from what I saw it's
definately not just a couple of screws to take that piece apart to get to
the circuit board. If any of you have done it and would like to give me some
pointers on how to go about it I'd be willing to give it a try.
    On another topic though I've have a strong smell from my exhaust lately.
I've had the cat checked and that was ok. I don't have any check engine
light on and have tried different fuels. I've also tried running a cleaner
through my car and none of this has helped. My next step is to change plugs
and wires since I just got the car 4 months ago and am not sure that they
really did the 60,000 mile tune up. If this doesn't fix the problem does
anyone have any other ideas?
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "William J. Crabtree" <wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
To: "team3s" <Team3S@team3s.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2003 1:06 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: spoiler brake light


> Why not repair the one that you have?  You can buy LED's from manyt
sources,
> as well as the other componants that are there.


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 22:04:30 -0500
From: "Jesse Rink" <jrink-3si@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S: car wont start - VERY detailed description inside

Lengthy Description Follows:

July 24th - Running 360cc stock injectors, stock fuel pump...
I parked the car in my driveway and installed an HKS AFR in preparation for
getting my new injectors and pump. The install of the HKS AFR went FINE, ran
great. It idled fine for about 15 minutes as the HKS AFR went through it's
"learning mode". After finishing the learning mode, I went over to my
neighbors for about 2 hours and had a few beers. After coming back to my
house I decided to drive the car in the garage. The car didn't start. Turned
over, fired, idled very roughly around 600rpm and died after about 10
seconds. Cranked it over again, same thing. It WAS working fine 2 hours
before this. I played around with the wires for the AFR where I spliced in
my connections to the ECU and then cranked the car over again, it fired
right up and has worked fine.

August 1st
The car has been running fine. I installed brand new 550cc injectors. After
the installation, the car runs FINE without any problems still. I tune the
AFR accoridngly....

August 10th
I installed a new Walbro 341 pump in the car. Now I'm running 550s, a
Walbro, and an HKS AFR. The car runs FINE again without ANY problem.

August 15th
I fixed 3 boost leaks on my car. Car runs even better. STILL not exibiting
the problem of not starting.

August 22nd 10:00am
I'm heading up to the Minnesota All Mitsu Cookout and Car Show (Great job by
Curt G putting this together). I had left my house (in SE Wisc) and met with
with Dave Judy near Madison, WI to caravan. We fill up at a gas station and
the car has been shut off now for about 20 mins while we chit-chat. When I
finally go to start the car, the car won't start. It exhibits the SAME
problems it did on July 24th. The car turned over, fired, ran roughly for
about 10 seconds at idle and then died. After several more attempts at
restarting, it wouldn't even stay running for 10 seconds. It would just die
immediately or not start at all. Almost as if the car wasn't getting any
fuel. Dave Judy and I push the car to the side of the gas station and I grab
the HKS AFR (which isn't mounted, its just sitting next to the drivers seat)
and I'm going to start adjusting the idle mixture when I crank it over, and
BAM, it starts fine. I'm thinking "loose wire"? Anyways... We start our trip
to Rogers, MN.

August 22nd 12:00pm
We stop at McDonalds. The car is parked for about 30 minutes. Get back in
the car, it starts up fine.

August 22nd 3:00pm
We stop for gas. I fill up, I get gas. The car starts up fine.

August 22nd 7:00pm
I'm checked into the hotel. The car is parked for about 20 minutes. I start
the car up, and it starts fine again. We all drive over to Francis' house
(3/S owner from MN) for dinner.

August 22nd 10:00pm
I decide to leave Francis' house and head back to the hotel. I try and start
my car. Doesn't start. It idles roughly for 10 seconds and then dies. I
adjust my idle mixture on the AFR, setting it VERY rich +25 or +40 etc.),
and it start idling longer, but still roughly and eventually dies. After
several tries at restarting, I notice the car stays running for a shorter
time. ALmost as if the fuel left in the line is being used up and no new
fuel is getting in. We start checking for loose wires on the AFR, can't find
any. Crimp down all connections on the AFR, still doesn't fix it. We mess
around with checking voltage at the fuel pump, and by the time we mess
around with that for 30 minutes, I'm checking the voltage at the fuel pump
connector while Francis tries cranking it over. As soon as he cranks it,
bam, 8v on the multimeter and the car fires up. We're lefting thinking,
'HUH?" because we didn't really DO anything. It just fixed itself (again).

August 23rd
All day the car started fine. I went to the All Mitsu Cookout and Car Show,
car exhibited NO problems.

August 24th 10:00am
Dave Judy and I leave in the morning, and the car starts up fine again. We
get about 100 miles down the freeway, and the car DIES while doing 75/80mph.
I pull over to the side of the road. Same thing. Cranks over, fires, and
runs rough for 10 seconds and dies. After several more attempts, and messing
with wires on the AFR and fuel pump connector, each time I try and start it,
it stays running a shorter amount of time. Again, like fuel isn't getting to
the cylinders.

August 24th 1:30pm
I've now messed around trying different things for an hour and a half on the
side of the freeway, and nothing works. This time, the car does NOT fix
itself like it seemed to before. I call for a flatbed and get it towed.

August 24th 9:30pm
I'm home from the Minnesota trip thanks to Dave Judy and his wife giving me
a ride. My car is stuck 300 miles (4 hours) North of me and I'm stumped,
pissed, frustrated, and bummed.

Right now I'm thinking....
A) Bad fuel pump or...
B) Bad HKS AFR

However I don't know for sure it's etiher of them. I'm going to have to
drive 4 hours with a boatload of tools and replacement parts to try and fix
this.

I'm looking for suggestions from knowledgable people as to what could be
causing this problem.

Thanks guys... My car is 300 miles away (4 hours) and I need to figure this
out SOON so I can go up north and fix my car.

Jesse Rink
Eagle, WI


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 20:39:38 -0700
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: Team3S: 0 PSI boost. Ideas?

I bet everyone saw my email from a few days ago about the car being finally
done after a 9-month engine swap. Everything worked great, new DR500 turbos
spooled as quick as stock if not a bit faster. First day I had the boost set
to 5PSI, then after second oil change went to stock 8-10 PSI.

Today I went for a ride to a friends house (30mi, I am looking for excuses
to put miles on the car). Drove the car pretty normal - freeway cruise
controlled at 80MPH. When I got off the freeway and got on the city streets
I noticed a power loss in the higher RPMs. Looking at the aftermarket boost
gauge I saw that I was barely going over 0PSI when I pushed the pedal all
the way in 2nd gear. Very strange.

At first I thought maybe an intake hose came off or something, checked
around, everything is on tight, don't hear apparent leaks. Car runs fine,
idles fine, drives fine, I have full non-turbo power. Its like driving an
SL. I have had hoses come off before, many times - this is not at all what
it feels like.

I didn't have much time to poke around, so on the way back I just tried to
listen to the car when I push the gas. I can hear a sound that is certainly
not supposed to be there, a whistle similar to my HKS SSBOV, but not nearly
as loud and much deeper. I drove all the way home (30 mi) without any issues
on 0 PSI boost. When I got home I thought that maybe actuator lines somehow
got melted/clogged and got stuck under pressure. Removed one of the lines
from the front actuator - no change.

Ideas I have are ether A: the HKS BOV is for some reason opening up under
boost; or B my waste gates are somehow stuck open.

I am the 3rd owner of that BOV, but I have had it for some time and it has
worked great. I have no way to test the BOV since the car wont build boost
when standing still. I looked at it, all the stuff is hooked right and when
I gas the car by yanking the cable under the hood, I see and feel the BOV
working properly (staying closed till I let go off the gas, then oppening up
to release air.

Far as waste gates being stuck, I am not sure what could cause this, but I
will try to play with the actuators when the car cools down some.

In the meantime, any advice or ideas would be great.

Thanks,
Tyson



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 22:31:53 -0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <mjannusch@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: car wont start - VERY detailed description inside

> Right now I'm thinking....
> A) Bad fuel pump or...
> B) Bad HKS AFR

When you installed the fuel pump, did you put some oil on the O-ring before
sliding it into the feed pipe?  If not, I'd venture a guess that the O-ring
got torn and that it is steadily deteriorating as fuel pump pressure blows
it apart.

You could see if you are getting fuel pressure by taking an empty gas can
along to the car and a section of clear vinyl hose (3/8" or so in diameter)
and remove the return line from the fuel pressure regulator and hook that
clear line up.  You should get a steady flow of fuel from the FPR through
the hose into the gas can.  If not, suspect that O-ring.  Its a common
problem with people who've done a recent pump upgrade.

If it isn't that, then SOLDER your HKS AFR connections.  Do not rely on
those crappy plastic clips to make important connections like these.  If
that doesn't take care of it, I'd say you may have a bad AFR unit.

Good luck, and let us know what you find.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 22:50:38 -0500
From: "Jesse Rink" <jrink-3si@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 0 PSI boost. Ideas?

For boost leaks, an intake pressure tester works great.  I found 3 leaks on
my car very easily.  If you can't locate where the leak is coming from, but
can hear the leak in a general area, spray windex in the area and look for
bubbles.
Jeff L's website (www.stealth316.com) has a link how to build a intake
pressure tester.

Jesse Rink


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <tigran@tigran.com>
To: "Team3S" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2003 10:39 PM
Subject: Team3S: 0 PSI boost. Ideas?


> I bet everyone saw my email from a few days ago about the car being
finally
> done after a 9-month engine swap. Everything worked great, new DR500
turbos
> spooled as quick as stock if not a bit faster. First day I had the boost
set
> to 5PSI, then after second oil change went to stock 8-10 PSI.
>
> Today I went for a ride to a friends house (30mi, I am looking for excuses
> to put miles on the car). Drove the car pretty normal - freeway cruise
> controlled at 80MPH. When I got off the freeway and got on the city
streets
> I noticed a power loss in the higher RPMs. Looking at the aftermarket
boost
> gauge I saw that I was barely going over 0PSI when I pushed the pedal all
> the way in 2nd gear. Very strange.
>
> At first I thought maybe an intake hose came off or something, checked
> around, everything is on tight, don't hear apparent leaks. Car runs fine,
> idles fine, drives fine, I have full non-turbo power. Its like driving an
> SL. I have had hoses come off before, many times - this is not at all what
> it feels like.
>
> I didn't have much time to poke around, so on the way back I just tried to
> listen to the car when I push the gas. I can hear a sound that is
certainly
> not supposed to be there, a whistle similar to my HKS SSBOV, but not
nearly
> as loud and much deeper. I drove all the way home (30 mi) without any
issues
> on 0 PSI boost. When I got home I thought that maybe actuator lines
somehow
> got melted/clogged and got stuck under pressure. Removed one of the lines
> from the front actuator - no change.
>
> Ideas I have are ether A: the HKS BOV is for some reason opening up under
> boost; or B my waste gates are somehow stuck open.
>
> I am the 3rd owner of that BOV, but I have had it for some time and it has
> worked great. I have no way to test the BOV since the car wont build boost
> when standing still. I looked at it, all the stuff is hooked right and
when
> I gas the car by yanking the cable under the hood, I see and feel the BOV
> working properly (staying closed till I let go off the gas, then oppening
up
> to release air.
>
> Far as waste gates being stuck, I am not sure what could cause this, but I
> will try to play with the actuators when the car cools down some.
>
> In the meantime, any advice or ideas would be great.
>
> Thanks,
> Tyson
>
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 22:55:13 -0500
From: "Jesse Rink" <jrink-3si@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: car wont start - VERY detailed description inside

Matt,
The o-ring was coated with oil before installing, so that should be ok.

The soldering iron is already on my list of "things to bring", i forgot to
mention that.  good call.

I hadn't thought about the clear vinyl hose idea, that's a very good idea.
I've never messed with the return line off the regulator, but I believe I
understand what you're getting at.  Although, if I route that line into a
gas can, it really doesnt have to be clear right?  I mean, it could be ANY
hose that will fit on the FPR, as long as I see gas spilling out into the
gas can i'm getting fuel where I need to be.  Right?

Thanks for the ideas.   MORE are welcome.  I DONT want to drive 300+ miles,
and NOT be able to fix it.

Jesse Rink


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Jannusch" <mjannusch@comcast.net>
To: "Jesse Rink" <JRink-3Si@wi.rr.com>; <Team3S@team3s.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2003 10:31 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: car wont start - VERY detailed description inside


> > Right now I'm thinking....
> > A) Bad fuel pump or...
> > B) Bad HKS AFR
>
> When you installed the fuel pump, did you put some oil on the O-ring
before
> sliding it into the feed pipe?  If not, I'd venture a guess that the
O-ring
> got torn and that it is steadily deteriorating as fuel pump pressure blows
> it apart.
>
> You could see if you are getting fuel pressure by taking an empty gas can
> along to the car and a section of clear vinyl hose (3/8" or so in
diameter)
> and remove the return line from the fuel pressure regulator and hook that
> clear line up.  You should get a steady flow of fuel from the FPR through
> the hose into the gas can.  If not, suspect that O-ring.  Its a common
> problem with people who've done a recent pump upgrade.
>
> If it isn't that, then SOLDER your HKS AFR connections.  Do not rely on
> those crappy plastic clips to make important connections like these.  If
> that doesn't take care of it, I'd say you may have a bad AFR unit.
>
> Good luck, and let us know what you find.
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
>
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 23:04:26 -0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <mjannusch@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: car wont start - VERY detailed description inside

> I hadn't thought about the clear vinyl hose idea, that's a very good idea.
> I've never messed with the return line off the regulator, but I believe I
> understand what you're getting at.  Although, if I route that line into a
> gas can, it really doesnt have to be clear right?  I mean, it could be ANY
> hose that will fit on the FPR, as long as I see gas spilling out into the
> gas can i'm getting fuel where I need to be.  Right?

Yup, you are right...  Could be any old hose I suppose.  Usually I can see
little bubbles in the clear hose I use so I can get a better idea of how
much fuel is flowing.  Remember that you should also get higher flow above
about 3000 RPM as the fuel pump circuitry switches to full voltage mode, so
watch for that.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 02:02:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: "A. Kryjevski" <abk4@u.washington.edu>
Subject: Team3S: disconnect battery during long term parking?

Hello:

My Stealth (92 R/T) is not going to be driven for a month. Should I
disconnect the battery?

Thank you.

Andrei Kryjevski.


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 08:46:59 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: So which doohickey makes the oil pressure gauge work?

Tyson, the SRS light is probably on because the system voltage slowly discharged below the lowest reference value (because your car sat without a battery for 9  months).  Switch the ignition on and off about 30 times in one minute and see if that turns the light off.  (Don't start the car, just switch the ignition on and off).  If that doesn't solve the problem, then you'll need to have the dealer (yep, that's what I said, the dealer), reset the light.  There's no other way.



- -----Original Message-----
From: Tyson Varosyan [mailto:tigran@tigran.com]
Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2003 10:47 PM
To: Team3S
Subject: Team3S: So which doohickey makes the oil pressure gauge work?


Running around today breaking the engine in, started to do some WOT boost
runs. My oil pressure with the new pump has been AWESOME! After making a few
passes watched my oil pressure gauge peg out on high. "That cant be good" I
thought, so I pulled over and lifted the oil cap. Pressure looks normal
under there. Went back inside expecting to see the gauge drop a bit, its
still pegged. I'm like "huh". Turned the car off and watched it go down as
things powered down. Turned car back on, gauge on the floor, wont go up.
Check under the cap again, pressure is there. Drove the car around,
everything felt fine, checked under the cap a bunch, everything is ok. Did a
few more high boost runs, bounced the redline once and went home. All in all
about 65mi on the car since the gauge stopped working so I am pretty sure
there is a problem with the signal.

I remember connecting all that stuff and seeing how badly the wires were ran
under there. Tried to manage them away from hot stuff, but I would bet that
the thing tore or melted on something. Just in case the wiring is ok, which
sensor under there is the one for the gauge? I remember connecting 2 or 3
things that looked like pressure sensors on the side of the oil pump. There
was a circular one that screwed in and another one that was like a bent
shaft that was up above it. I would guess one of those two is the sensor.
Which is it?

Thanks,

Tyson

PS Almost 200 miles on the car, everything is running great (engine-wise).
Got a few minor bugs to work out (sticky lock, ECS and SRS lights) but other
than that, I think everything is cool.





***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***


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***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 07:22:01 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: car wont start - VERY detailed description inside

This is *exactly* what happened to me recently, right after I did similar
upgrades on my '91 VR-4 -- Supra pump wired full, 13C turbos, added 550cc
injectors, a BOV, BC, ARM-1 A/F meter and an SAFC-II...  So of course, (like
everyone else who has answered you), my first thoughts were that it was a fuel
supply issue related to my new mods.  It wasn't.  It was a deteriorated fuse
holder for the alarm!  Well, actually, in a roundabout way it *was* a fuel
issue, because that's what will happen if the alarm is triggered or if that
alarm fuse blows.  The alarm circuit appears to cut off fuel delivery, so as
soon as what's in the lines is used up, it will starve and the engine will
die.

The 1st time it happened, I went into a restaurant for an hour, after having
run the car hot for about 3 hours.  When I came out, the car idled rough for
about 5 min, then sputtered and died, and would not start again.  When the AAA
guy showed up, he took a wild guess that it might be the alarm circuit and
threw in a new fuse and the car started instantly.

Then..., no problems for about 3 weeks...  The 2nd time was when I met Geoff
at the AWD dyno place, and parked blocking their driveway until they were
ready for me.  Same deal.  Car sputtered a couple of times, then it wouldn't
even do that.  Lots of juice, but it wouldn't start - (and embarrassingly, I
was blocking their entrance).  I had extra fuses with me, so I tried that, and
it started right up.  Geoff and I looked at it, and we saw that the fuse
holder had melted somewhat, exposing some of the metal.  Since it was right
near the fuel line, hanging loose and not tied down, we guessed that it was
shorting against the fuel line and blowing the fuse.  We gaffer taped the hell
out of the whole fuse holder to prevent it from shorting, and tied it down
away from the fuel line.

The 3rd time was at the track, and I started thinking that it might be
something wrong with the alarm itself, since nothing was exposed to shorting
that time.  When I replaced the fuse, at first it didn't work, but Geoff
forced it into the fuseholder harder and it worked.  Geoff then bypassed the
fuse circuit entirely with a new wire direct to the battery(+) to see if it
helped (yup - it started right up), so I ran to NAPA auto parts and picked up
some 10 ga wire, a new fuse holder and some connectors.  As I started to
repair it, the power wire came out of the old connector-- no..., *fell* out of
the connector!  It had obviously never been crimped sufficiently, and it had
developed corrosion on the wires inside the connector.  (The wires looked
dusty and white-green, like on an old battery terminal).  Every time I would
hit a bump, I'm sure it was shaking the corroded wire slowly out of the
connector (the poly motor mounts and rock-hard racing suspension is pretty
jolting).  I cut back the wire and installed the new parts and I haven't had a
problem since.

Before you start testing the fuel supply system on your car, you might just
want to try bypassing that alarm fuse line.  Lean in from the passenger side
and follow each of the 3 or 4 small wires that come from the battery +
terminal;  look for the fuse-holder - a little black box with rounded corners
the size of a small matchbook- maybe 1.5" x 1.2" x .4".  You can just try to
replace the (30 amp) fuse first, but that just might be indicative of a
corroded-wire circuit problem like I described above.  Bring 10 ga, wire and a
crimping tool (or vise-grip).  You're still gonna have to lug all the other
tools, wire, and stuff, since fuel supply really might be the issue.  But it
sure would be nice if you can just plug in a new alarm fuse and start your car
up.  :-)  Check that out first.  Good luck!

- ---Forrest



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 09:58:22 -0500
From: "merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: Q on clutch

NOw that the tranny is out, I am getting ready to replace the clutch plate
(it's not worn real bad, but I don't EVER want to go in there again unless
I absolutely have to).

Questions:

Do I have to replace the pressure plate too, or just get it turned?

One shop says they don't turn pressure plates, because it's too hard to
brace them. Find a different shop, or what?

The same shop questioned my continuing to use a stock clutch.

I figure the car is making 400 hp now, and I'll put in bigger turbos,
injectors and an AFC  when the money tree starts blooming again, but I
don't think I will ever make really big hp numbers. Maybe 450?

Since I will never again "launch" my Getrag (I don't EVER want to go in
there again unless I absolutely have to), and I don't bang-shift it on road
courses (I don't EVER want to go in there again unless I absolutely have
to), is a stock clutch enough? It sure would be a lot cheaper to stay
stock. Since I am looking at $2K for a tranny, I don't need to spend any
more than necessary.

All advice welcome.

Rich/slow old poop
94 VR4



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 11:19:49 -0400
From: "Tom Rowell" <Toemass@cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S: Boost Problem

OK everyone I have researched the archives and can't seem to find any
helpful info. Have a 92 TT VR4 stock turbos bov's and fuel system, I am
tooling along to Daytona at a comfortable 145 mph and upon return trip to
Orlando when wot as soon as I reach between 8 and 10 psi on my HKS gauge,
engine bogs down and car seems to shudder and backfires if I don't let up
and drop below 8 psi on boost gauge. Previously I was getting 14.5 psi with
no problems, the car still runs great until I reach that magic 8-10 psi. I
have a Hallman manual boost controller installed since 97 and haven't
touched it since original install. Anyone have a solution for me? Thanks Tom



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 10:24:22 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: Q on clutch

Rich,

Every time I go through this analysis, I wind up in the same place: stock clutch is plenty good.  I have a slightly used pressure plate in the garage - if you want it I'll ship it to you.  I've heard of turning flywheels, but not pressure plates.  I was thinking that damage to pressure plates tends to be the little fingers in the middle.

Is there something wrong with your old pressure plate?

Upgraded clutch plates, like the six puck model are really more than you need and don't tend to last as long as the stock ones. I just installed a new stock-type clutch on my '94 when they rebuilt the transmission, even though the "old" clutch only had like 10 or 20K miles on it.

Chuck Willis 

- -----Original Message-----
From: merritt@cedar-rapids.net [mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
Sent: Monday, August 25, 2003 9:58 AM
To: 3sracers@speedtoys.com; Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: 3S-Racers: Q on clutch


NOw that the tranny is out, I am getting ready to replace the clutch plate
(it's not worn real bad, but I don't EVER want to go in there again unless
I absolutely have to).

Questions:

Do I have to replace the pressure plate too, or just get it turned?

One shop says they don't turn pressure plates, because it's too hard to
brace them. Find a different shop, or what?

The same shop questioned my continuing to use a stock clutch.

I figure the car is making 400 hp now, and I'll put in bigger turbos,
injectors and an AFC  when the money tree starts blooming again, but I
don't think I will ever make really big hp numbers. Maybe 450?

Since I will never again "launch" my Getrag (I don't EVER want to go in
there again unless I absolutely have to), and I don't bang-shift it on road
courses (I don't EVER want to go in there again unless I absolutely have
to), is a stock clutch enough? It sure would be a lot cheaper to stay
stock. Since I am looking at $2K for a tranny, I don't need to spend any
more than necessary.

All advice welcome.



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 10:26:46 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Boost Problem

How many miles?  When was last timing belt change?

Chuck Willis

- -----Original Message-----
From: Tom Rowell [mailto:Toemass@cfl.rr.com]
Sent: Monday, August 25, 2003 10:20 AM
To: Team 3s
Subject: Team3S: Boost Problem


OK everyone I have researched the archives and can't seem to find any
helpful info. Have a 92 TT VR4 stock turbos bov's and fuel system, I am
tooling along to Daytona at a comfortable 145 mph and upon return trip to
Orlando when wot as soon as I reach between 8 and 10 psi on my HKS gauge,
engine bogs down and car seems to shudder and backfires if I don't let up
and drop below 8 psi on boost gauge. Previously I was getting 14.5 psi with
no problems, the car still runs great until I reach that magic 8-10 psi. I
have a Hallman manual boost controller installed since 97 and haven't
touched it since original install. Anyone have a solution for me? Thanks Tom



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 10:25:52 -0500
From: "Morice, Francis" <francis.morice@retek.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Q on clutch

Rich,

You should be fine with the stock clutch/pressure plate.  You aren't doing any drag racing.  Yes, I would replace the stock pressure plate, it's not just a matter of resurfacing, but also the springs on the pressure plate wear out.  Like you said, you don't want to go back in there any time soon.

Francis
'96RT/TT 12.08@113.19

- -----Original Message-----
From: merritt@cedar-rapids.net [mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
Sent: Monday, August 25, 2003 9:58 AM
To: 3sracers@speedtoys.com; Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: Q on clutch

>NOw that the tranny is out, I am getting ready to replace the clutch plate
>(it's not worn real bad, but I don't EVER want to go in there again unless
>I absolutely have to).

>Questions:

>Do I have to replace the pressure plate too, or just get it turned?

>One shop says they don't turn pressure plates, because it's too hard to
>brace them. Find a different shop, or what?

>The same shop questioned my continuing to use a stock clutch.

 
>Rich/slow old poop
>94 VR4



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 10:33:48 -0500
From: "David Phillips" <dphillips@heeren.com>
Subject: Team3S: Squealing / vibration from new brakes

I'm having issues with the new brake pads I installed last month.   I had
all 4 rotors turned.   I installed CeramiX brand pads on the front and some
auto-store premium brand on the rear.   I have been noticing a humming /
vibration during low speed braking.  (mostly in parking lots).   When I
removed the original pads, their was a thin plastic slotted piece between
the pads and the pistons.   I didn't reuse them with the new pads.   I did
use the red 'squeak-stop' stuff on the back of the pads.

Any suggestions??

David Phillips
94 3000 GT SL



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 10:54:31 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Squealing / vibration from new brakes

The "plastic" pieces you removed (actually metal) are "antisqueal" plates. The red "stop squeak" is Elmers glue dyed red.  Try reinstalling the plates with high temperature brake grease between them and the pad backers and pistons and each other. There should be two plates on each side.  If you trashed them, you can buy some more from the dealer.

Some brake pads, especially really metallic or rigid ones will always squeal some, especially at light braking. Vibration might indicate that you haven't bedded them properly. Did the pad manufacturer give you a bedding procedure?

Chuck Willis

 

- -----Original Message-----
From: David Phillips [mailto:dphillips@heeren.com]
Sent: Monday, August 25, 2003 10:34 AM
To: Team3S
Subject: Team3S: Squealing / vibration from new brakes


I'm having issues with the new brake pads I installed last month.   I had
all 4 rotors turned.   I installed CeramiX brand pads on the front and some
auto-store premium brand on the rear.   I have been noticing a humming /
vibration during low speed braking.  (mostly in parking lots).   When I
removed the original pads, their was a thin plastic slotted piece between
the pads and the pistons.   I didn't reuse them with the new pads.   I did
use the red 'squeak-stop' stuff on the back of the pads.

Any suggestions??

David Phillips
94 3000 GT SL



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 10:54:46 -0500 (CDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Q on clutch

Thats about it..PPlates are difficult to turn.

On Mon, 25 Aug 2003, merritt@cedar-rapids.net wrote:

> NOw that the tranny is out, I am getting ready to replace the clutch plate
> (it's not worn real bad, but I don't EVER want to go in there again unless
> I absolutely have to).
>
> Questions:
>
> Do I have to replace the pressure plate too, or just get it turned?
>
> One shop says they don't turn pressure plates, because it's too hard to
> brace them. Find a different shop, or what?
>
> The same shop questioned my continuing to use a stock clutch.
>
> I figure the car is making 400 hp now, and I'll put in bigger turbos,
> injectors and an AFC  when the money tree starts blooming again, but I
> don't think I will ever make really big hp numbers. Maybe 450?
>
> Since I will never again "launch" my Getrag (I don't EVER want to go in
> there again unless I absolutely have to), and I don't bang-shift it on road
> courses (I don't EVER want to go in there again unless I absolutely have
> to), is a stock clutch enough? It sure would be a lot cheaper to stay
> stock. Since I am looking at $2K for a tranny, I don't need to spend any
> more than necessary.
>
> All advice welcome.
>
> Rich/slow old poop
> 94 VR4
>
>
>
> --
> To sub:   Email majordomo@speedtoys.com with a body of 'subscribe 3sracers'.
> To unsub: Email majordomo@speedtoys.com with a body of 'unsubscribe 3sracers'
> "Ban low performance drivers, not high performance cars."
>

- ---
www.SpeedToys.com: Geoff Mohler orders@speedtoys.com
Team3S/3Si.org Vendor approved brake discounter; also,
parts for Toyota, Audi, BMW, Mercedes, Porsche, SAAB, Volvo.
Where do you buy YOUR brakes?  I can help...asking is free!  :)
"If its in stock, we have it!"


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 10:56:25 -0500 (CDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: Q on clutch

Of course..if Rich is a racer..and wants weight..he should get a racing
clutch.

Drop bout 20lbs off the clutch assembly at LEAST, plus it moves all of the
mass VERY close to the center of rotation..

On Mon, 25 Aug 2003, Willis, Charles E. wrote:

> Rich,
>
> Every time I go through this analysis, I wind up in the same place: stock clutch is plenty good.  I have a slightly used pressure plate in the garage - if you want it I'll ship it to you.  I've heard of turning flywheels, but not pressure plates.  I was thinking that damage to pressure plates tends to be the little fingers in the middle.
>
> Is there something wrong with your old pressure plate?
>
> Upgraded clutch plates, like the six puck model are really more than you need and don't tend to last as long as the stock ones. I just installed a new stock-type clutch on my '94 when they rebuilt the transmission, even though the "old" clutch only had like 10 or 20K miles on it.
>
> Chuck Willis 
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: merritt@cedar-rapids.net [mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
> Sent: Monday, August 25, 2003 9:58 AM
> To: 3sracers@speedtoys.com; Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: 3S-Racers: Q on clutch
>
>
> NOw that the tranny is out, I am getting ready to replace the clutch plate
> (it's not worn real bad, but I don't EVER want to go in there again unless
> I absolutely have to).
>
> Questions:
>
> Do I have to replace the pressure plate too, or just get it turned?
>
> One shop says they don't turn pressure plates, because it's too hard to
> brace them. Find a different shop, or what?
>
> The same shop questioned my continuing to use a stock clutch.
>
> I figure the car is making 400 hp now, and I'll put in bigger turbos,
> injectors and an AFC  when the money tree starts blooming again, but I
> don't think I will ever make really big hp numbers. Maybe 450?
>
> Since I will never again "launch" my Getrag (I don't EVER want to go in
> there again unless I absolutely have to), and I don't bang-shift it on road
> courses (I don't EVER want to go in there again unless I absolutely have
> to), is a stock clutch enough? It sure would be a lot cheaper to stay
> stock. Since I am looking at $2K for a tranny, I don't need to spend any
> more than necessary.
>
> All advice welcome.
>
>
>
> --
> To sub:   Email majordomo@speedtoys.com with a body of 'subscribe 3sracers'.
> To unsub: Email majordomo@speedtoys.com with a body of 'unsubscribe 3sracers'
> "Ban low performance drivers, not high performance cars."
>

- ---
www.SpeedToys.com: Geoff Mohler orders@speedtoys.com
Team3S/3Si.org Vendor approved brake discounter; also,
parts for Toyota, Audi, BMW, Mercedes, Porsche, SAAB, Volvo.
Where do you buy YOUR brakes?  I can help...asking is free!  :)
"If its in stock, we have it!"


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 08:59:49 -0700
From: Peter Linss <peter@linss.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: disconnect battery during long term parking?

For one month I wouldn't sweat it, unless you have an aftermarket alarm
or something else putting an extra load on the battery, or the battery
is old and not holding a charge so well these days (but then you should
probably replace it anyway). My car has sat for that long with no ill
effects. If it's in a garage, you can put a BatteryTender on it if you
want to play it safe.

Peter

'97 VR4



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 09:09:41 -0700
From: "fastmax" <fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Squealing / vibration from new brakes

FWIW --- my son-in-law, a Ford tech, claims there is a secret sauce of some
kind you spray on the pads that helps eliminate squeal.


        Jim Berry
==================================
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
To: "Team3S" <Team3S@team3s.com>; "David Phillips" <dphillips@heeren.com>
Sent: Monday, August 25, 2003 8:54 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Squealing / vibration from new brakes


> The "plastic" pieces you removed (actually metal) are "antisqueal" plates. The red "stop squeak" is Elmers glue dyed red.  Try
reinstalling the plates with high temperature brake grease between them and the pad backers and pistons and each other. There should
be two plates on each side.  If you trashed them, you can buy some more from the dealer.
>
> Some brake pads, especially really metallic or rigid ones will always squeal some, especially at light braking. Vibration might
indicate that you haven't bedded them properly. Did the pad manufacturer give you a bedding procedure?
>
> Chuck Willis
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: David Phillips [mailto:dphillips@heeren.com]
> Sent: Monday, August 25, 2003 10:34 AM
> To: Team3S
> Subject: Team3S: Squealing / vibration from new brakes
>
>
> I'm having issues with the new brake pads I installed last month.   I had
> all 4 rotors turned.   I installed CeramiX brand pads on the front and some
> auto-store premium brand on the rear.   I have been noticing a humming /
> vibration during low speed braking.  (mostly in parking lots).   When I
> removed the original pads, their was a thin plastic slotted piece between
> the pads and the pistons.   I didn't reuse them with the new pads.   I did
> use the red 'squeak-stop' stuff on the back of the pads.
>
> Any suggestions??
>
> David Phillips
> 94 3000 GT SL
>
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
>



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 12:41:19 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Squealing / vibration from new brakes

I've found that oftentimes auto-store brand pads dust a hell of a lot more than pads you can buy from the dealer.  A buildup of this dust can cause the humming/vibration you describe (it happened to me on my Stealth).  Try hosing down the calipers and rotors with a strong stream of water, then take your car for a ride and see if it still hums/vibrates.  If not, it's the dust.



- -----Original Message-----
From: Willis, Charles E. [mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
Sent: Monday, August 25, 2003 11:55 AM
To: Team3S; David Phillips
Subject: RE: Team3S: Squealing / vibration from new brakes


The "plastic" pieces you removed (actually metal) are "antisqueal" plates. The red "stop squeak" is Elmers glue dyed red.  Try reinstalling the plates with high temperature brake grease between them and the pad backers and pistons and each other. There should be two plates on each side.  If you trashed them, you can buy some more from the dealer.

Some brake pads, especially really metallic or rigid ones will always squeal some, especially at light braking. Vibration might indicate that you haven't bedded them properly. Did the pad manufacturer give you a bedding procedure?

Chuck Willis

 

- -----Original Message-----
From: David Phillips [mailto:dphillips@heeren.com]
Sent: Monday, August 25, 2003 10:34 AM
To: Team3S
Subject: Team3S: Squealing / vibration from new brakes


I'm having issues with the new brake pads I installed last month.   I had
all 4 rotors turned.   I installed CeramiX brand pads on the front and some
auto-store premium brand on the rear.   I have been noticing a humming /
vibration during low speed braking.  (mostly in parking lots).   When I
removed the original pads, their was a thin plastic slotted piece between
the pads and the pistons.   I didn't reuse them with the new pads.   I did
use the red 'squeak-stop' stuff on the back of the pads.

Any suggestions??

David Phillips
94 3000 GT SL



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***


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If you are not the intended recipient, please advise the sender immediately.
Unauthorized use or distribution is prohibited and may be unlawful.



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 19:03:44 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 0 PSI boost. Ideas?

Tyson,

Welcome to the world of unexplained (as yet) phenomena that can occur to our cars. I recently had almost the exact same experience! I had installed new plugs, plugs wires, coils, and power transistor unit ("igniter") and so had the plenum off and several IC pipes. After I put it all back together the engine ran just fine and drove fine (got normal boost). The next day, boost would not go over 0 psi.

How can that possibly happen? Did I leave a rag an IC pipe or something equally as silly? Nope (I checked). I was compeletly perplexed. I made the list below of the ways I could imagine that we could alter our engine to not go over 0 psi boost.

1) Disconnect the wastegate actuators (both) so that the wastegates are always open.
2) Force the wastegates (both) to keep the wastegates open (remove spring for example).
3) Remove BOV/BPV and connect big hose from Y-pipe into intake hose.
4) Force BOV/BPV to always be open.
5) Massive air leak out of plenum (? into clutch or brake booster hoses or through a gasket or into EGR system?).

Can someone think of another way?

I checked the spring action on the wastegates and that they were connected. OK.
I pressure tested the intake. OK.
I took off the GReddy BOV and it looks OK but I put my old factory BPV back on. No change.

I drove the car. Floored it and boost stopped at 0. Totally freeaky. Like being in an alternate universe.

Next day I tried again. Floored the car and boost stopped at 0. But ... I left it floored some more and it was like something "broke loose" or "popped" (no noise just a "feeling"). Car ran just fine after that and continues to do so.

I have no idea at all how this could happen. And of course no suggestion for a remedy, except maybe keep driving at WOT.

If others have experienced this weird phenomenon please let us know the circumstance and how or why it stopped.

Jeff Lucius, http://www.stealth316.com/

- ---------- Original Message -------------
Subject: Team3S: 0 PSI boost. Ideas?
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 20:39:38 -0700
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <tigran@tigran.com>
To: "Team3S" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>


I bet everyone saw my email from a few days ago about the car being finally done after a 9-month engine swap. Everything worked great, new DR500 turbos spooled as quick as stock if not a bit faster. First day I had the boost set to 5PSI, then after second oil change went to stock 8-10 PSI.

Today I went for a ride to a friends house (30mi, I am looking for excuses
to put miles on the car). Drove the car pretty normal - freeway cruise
controlled at 80MPH. When I got off the freeway and got on the city streets
I noticed a power loss in the higher RPMs. Looking at the aftermarket boost
gauge I saw that I was barely going over 0PSI when I pushed the pedal all
the way in 2nd gear. Very strange.

At first I thought maybe an intake hose came off or something, checked
around, everything is on tight, don't hear apparent leaks. Car runs fine,
idles fine, drives fine, I have full non-turbo power. Its like driving an
SL. I have had hoses come off before, many times - this is not at all what
it feels like.

I didn't have much time to poke around, so on the way back I just tried to
listen to the car when I push the gas. I can hear a sound that is certainly
not supposed to be there, a whistle similar to my HKS SSBOV, but not nearly as loud and much deeper. I drove all the way home (30 mi) without any issues on 0 PSI boost. When I got home I thought that maybe actuator lines somehow got melted/clogged and got stuck under pressure. Removed one of the lines from the front actuator - no change.

Ideas I have are ether A: the HKS BOV is for some reason opening up under
boost; or B my waste gates are somehow stuck open.

I am the 3rd owner of that BOV, but I have had it for some time and it has
worked great. I have no way to test the BOV since the car wont build boost
when standing still. I looked at it, all the stuff is hooked right and when
I gas the car by yanking the cable under the hood, I see and feel the BOV
working properly (staying closed till I let go off the gas, then oppening up
to release air.

Far as waste gates being stuck, I am not sure what could cause this, but I
will try to play with the actuators when the car cools down some.

In the meantime, any advice or ideas would be great.

Thanks,
Tyson

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 19:16:08 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: disconnect battery during long term parking?

Unless you are missing the security codes for an electronic device installed in the car, you do no harm by disconnecting the battery. If you do not know as fact how long your battery can remain in your non-running car and not become discharged (below about 10.5 v), why take a chance ruining or damaging the battery? My '92 TT often sits for long periods and I always disconnect the battery, with no negative effects.

Disconnecting the battery can also be part of security measures to prevent theft. Granted, the factory security system is disabled, but some ignition wires or harness connectors can be removed or disconnected, or the fuel pump harness connector (above the fuel pump) can be disconnected for added theft deterence. If you have an AFC, AFR, ARC2, MAFT, VPC, or similar device installed, these can be adjusted to prevent the car from starting even after all electrical connections are restored.

Jeff Lucius, http://www.stealth316.com/

- ---------- Original Message -------------
Subject: Team3S: disconnect battery during long term parking?
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 02:02:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: "A. Kryjevski" <abk4@u.washington.edu>
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st


Hello:

My Stealth (92 R/T) is not going to be driven for a month. Should I
disconnect the battery?

Thank you.

Andrei Kryjevski.


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 14:22:10 -0700
From: "Paul T Kempkes" <fretless@twcny.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S: Power for extra strereo amp

Ladies and Gentlemen
I'm installing a powered subwoofer and would like to take the power ( +12v ,
ground, and remote) from the lines that power up the under seat amp (94
Stealth turbo, Infinity sound package).  The additional amp is rather small,
so I don't think I'll be blowing fuses (But we'll see...)   I've been able
to figure out that the blue wire is +12v (and always hot), and the black
wire is ground.  But which one is the "remote" that turns the amp on and
off?   Thanks much.

Drive Fast
Paul Kempkes



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 16:23:59 -0400
From: "Williams, Tommy F" <WilliamsTF@bernstein.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Power for extra strereo amp

The remote turn on is sent via the din connection from the radio.  It is not
a full 12v signal and would not turn my amplifier on.  I had to run a lead
from the back of the radio for the ignition.

Tommy

- -----Original Message-----
From: Paul T Kempkes [mailto:fretless@twcny.rr.com]
Sent: Monday, August 25, 2003 5:22 PM
To: team3s@team3s.com
Subject: Team3S: Power for extra strereo amp


Ladies and Gentlemen
I'm installing a powered subwoofer and would like to take the power ( +12v ,
ground, and remote) from the lines that power up the under seat amp (94
Stealth turbo, Infinity sound package).  The additional amp is rather small,
so I don't think I'll be blowing fuses (But we'll see...)   I've been able
to figure out that the blue wire is +12v (and always hot), and the black
wire is ground.  But which one is the "remote" that turns the amp on and
off?   Thanks much.

Drive Fast
Paul Kempkes



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 13:46:54 -0700
From: "Damon Rachell" <DamonR@MEFAS.com>
Subject: Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: Q on clutch

Rich,
IMO, if you're going to get upgraded turbos and fuel, a stock clutch and pressure plate will not provide you the grip you desire.  I installed last night, an RPS Max series pressure plate with a Mitsu pressure plate and a Fidanza flywheel combo.  It feels great.  Lighter petal pressure than my Centerforce and it's grippy as hell.  I feel that it's going to be a great combo in the long run.

Stock is good, but lighter, stronger is better.

Damon


- -----Original Message-----
From: Willis, Charles E. [mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
Sent: Monday, August 25, 2003 8:24 AM
To: 3sracers@speedtoys.com; Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: RE: 3S-Racers: Q on clutch

Rich,

Every time I go through this analysis, I wind up in the same place: stock clutch is plenty good.  I have a slightly used pressure plate in the garage - if you want it I'll ship it to you.  I've heard of turning flywheels, but not pressure plates.  I was thinking that damage to pressure plates tends to be the little fingers in the middle.

Is there something wrong with your old pressure plate?

Upgraded clutch plates, like the six puck model are really more than you need and don't tend to last as long as the stock ones. I just installed a new stock-type clutch on my '94 when they rebuilt the transmission, even though the "old" clutch only had like 10 or 20K miles on it.

Chuck Willis

- -----Original Message-----
From: merritt@cedar-rapids.net [mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
Sent: Monday, August 25, 2003 9:58 AM
To: 3sracers@speedtoys.com; Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: 3S-Racers: Q on clutch


NOw that the tranny is out, I am getting ready to replace the clutch plate
(it's not worn real bad, but I don't EVER want to go in there again unless
I absolutely have to).

Questions:

Do I have to replace the pressure plate too, or just get it turned?

One shop says they don't turn pressure plates, because it's too hard to
brace them. Find a different shop, or what?

The same shop questioned my continuing to use a stock clutch.

I figure the car is making 400 hp now, and I'll put in bigger turbos,
injectors and an AFC  when the money tree starts blooming again, but I
don't think I will ever make really big hp numbers. Maybe 450?

Since I will never again "launch" my Getrag (I don't EVER want to go in
there again unless I absolutely have to), and I don't bang-shift it on road
courses (I don't EVER want to go in there again unless I absolutely have
to), is a stock clutch enough? It sure would be a lot cheaper to stay
stock. Since I am looking at $2K for a tranny, I don't need to spend any
more than necessary.

All advice welcome.



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***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 16:02:19 -0500
From: "William J. Crabtree" <wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Power for extra strereo amp

With all due respect to Tommy, This is not correct.  The factory amp seems
as though it is ALWAYS on (when your ignition is turned on)  There is no
"remote" lead on the DIN cable that I could find.  Some suggest that the
orange wire in the DIN cable is the remote turn on lead. I don't believe
that this is the case on the Infinity stereos in the '94(ish) 3S's.  I could
find no trace of this lead on any of the circuit boards inside of the
factory head unit.

Your best bet is to wire your amp's remote lead to an ignition on source
(like the power going to the head unit) and install a switch that you have
access to for turning the amp on and off.

- -Best of luck

- -Jeff

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Williams, Tommy F
Sent: Monday, August 25, 2003 3:24 PM
To: 'Paul T Kempkes'; team3s@team3s.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Power for extra strereo amp


The remote turn on is sent via the din connection from the radio.  It is not
a full 12v signal and would not turn my amplifier on.  I had to run a lead
from the back of the radio for the ignition.

Tommy

- -----Original Message-----
From: Paul T Kempkes [mailto:fretless@twcny.rr.com]
Sent: Monday, August 25, 2003 5:22 PM
To: team3s@team3s.com
Subject: Team3S: Power for extra strereo amp


Ladies and Gentlemen
I'm installing a powered subwoofer and would like to take the power ( +12v ,
ground, and remote) from the lines that power up the under seat amp (94
Stealth turbo, Infinity sound package).  The additional amp is rather small,
so I don't think I'll be blowing fuses (But we'll see...)   I've been able
to figure out that the blue wire is +12v (and always hot), and the black
wire is ground.  But which one is the "remote" that turns the amp on and
off?   Thanks much.

Drive Fast
Paul Kempkes



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
- -----------------------------------------
The information contained in this transmission may contain privileged and
confidential information and is intended only for the use of the person(s)
named above. If you are not the intended recipient, or an employee or agent
responsible for delivering this message to the intended recipient, any
review, dissemination, distribution or duplication of this communication is
strictly prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient, please contact
the sender immediately by reply e-mail and destroy all copies of the
original message. Please note that we do not accept account orders and/or
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out such orders and/or instructions.



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 17:05:47 -0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt D" <Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: Q on clutch

..for your tip toe thru the 'petals'..
   
Please clarify, Max series pressure plate.., Mitsu pressure plate.

You mean Mitsu friction disc / driven plate, and RPS pressure plate?

Kurt    

- -----Original Message-----
From: Damon Rachell [mailto:DamonR@MEFAS.com]
Sent: Monday, August 25, 2003 1:47 PM
To: 3sracers@speedtoys.com; Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: RE: 3S-Racers: Q on clutch


Rich,
IMO, if you're going to get upgraded turbos and fuel, a stock clutch and
pressure plate will not provide you the grip you desire.  I installed
last night, an RPS Max series pressure plate with a Mitsu pressure plate
and a Fidanza flywheel combo.  It feels great.  Lighter petal pressure
than my Centerforce and it's grippy as hell.  I feel that it's going to
be a great combo in the long run.

Stock is good, but lighter, stronger is better.

Damon


- -----Original Message-----
From: Willis, Charles E. [mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
Sent: Monday, August 25, 2003 8:24 AM
To: 3sracers@speedtoys.com; Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: RE: 3S-Racers: Q on clutch

Rich,

Every time I go through this analysis, I wind up in the same place:
stock clutch is plenty good.  I have a slightly used pressure plate in
the garage - if you want it I'll ship it to you.  I've heard of turning
flywheels, but not pressure plates.  I was thinking that damage to
pressure plates tends to be the little fingers in the middle.

Is there something wrong with your old pressure plate?

Upgraded clutch plates, like the six puck model are really more than you
need and don't tend to last as long as the stock ones. I just installed
a new stock-type clutch on my '94 when they rebuilt the transmission,
even though the "old" clutch only had like 10 or 20K miles on it.

Chuck Willis



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 14:16:41 -0700
From: "Damon Rachell" <DamonR@MEFAS.com>
Subject: Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: Q on clutch

Oops, I meant Max Series pressure plate with a stock clutch disc.  No 6-puck, no non-sprung.  Just plain OEM clutch disc.

The added force from the pressure plate adds huge amounts of grip to an already good organic disc design from Mitsu.

Damon


- -----Original Message-----
From: Zobel, Kurt D [mailto:Kurt.Zobel@ca.com]
Sent: Monday, August 25, 2003 2:06 PM
To: 3sracers@speedtoys.com; Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: RE: 3S-Racers: Q on clutch

..for your tip toe thru the 'petals'..
  
Please clarify, Max series pressure plate.., Mitsu pressure plate.

You mean Mitsu friction disc / driven plate, and RPS pressure plate?

Kurt   

- -----Original Message-----
From: Damon Rachell [mailto:DamonR@MEFAS.com]
Sent: Monday, August 25, 2003 1:47 PM
To: 3sracers@speedtoys.com; Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: RE: 3S-Racers: Q on clutch


Rich,
IMO, if you're going to get upgraded turbos and fuel, a stock clutch and
pressure plate will not provide you the grip you desire.  I installed
last night, an RPS Max series pressure plate with a Mitsu pressure plate
and a Fidanza flywheel combo.  It feels great.  Lighter petal pressure
than my Centerforce and it's grippy as hell.  I feel that it's going to
be a great combo in the long run.

Stock is good, but lighter, stronger is better.

Damon


- -----Original Message-----
From: Willis, Charles E. [mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
Sent: Monday, August 25, 2003 8:24 AM
To: 3sracers@speedtoys.com; Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: RE: 3S-Racers: Q on clutch

Rich,

Every time I go through this analysis, I wind up in the same place:
stock clutch is plenty good.  I have a slightly used pressure plate in
the garage - if you want it I'll ship it to you.  I've heard of turning
flywheels, but not pressure plates.  I was thinking that damage to
pressure plates tends to be the little fingers in the middle.

Is there something wrong with your old pressure plate?

Upgraded clutch plates, like the six puck model are really more than you
need and don't tend to last as long as the stock ones. I just installed
a new stock-type clutch on my '94 when they rebuilt the transmission,
even though the "old" clutch only had like 10 or 20K miles on it.

Chuck Willis



- --
To sub:   Email majordomo@speedtoys.com with a body of 'subscribe 3sracers'.
To unsub: Email majordomo@speedtoys.com with a body of 'unsubscribe 3sracers'
"Ban low performance drivers, not high performance cars."


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 17:12:21 -0400
From: "Williams, Tommy F" <WilliamsTF@bernstein.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Power for extra strereo amp

I actually purchased a Soundgate cable that converts the DIN out on the back
of the radio to four female RCA's for front and rear and a "remote" turn on
lead. I installed this in my 1996 VR-4.  The remote turn on did not work for
my amplifier as the voltage was too low when I measured it. (yes, there is
voltage there and apparently the factory amp does not require 12v to turn
on.)

I ended up tapping the ignition to the radio to get the amplifier going.

See link below!

http://www.logjamelectronics.com/soundmitsamp.html




- -----Original Message-----
From: William J. Crabtree [mailto:wjcrabtree@earthlink.net]
Sent: Monday, August 25, 2003 5:02 PM
To: Williams, Tommy F; 'Paul T Kempkes'; team3s@team3s.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Power for extra strereo amp


With all due respect to Tommy, This is not correct.  The factory amp seems
as though it is ALWAYS on (when your ignition is turned on)  There is no
"remote" lead on the DIN cable that I could find.  Some suggest that the
orange wire in the DIN cable is the remote turn on lead. I don't believe
that this is the case on the Infinity stereos in the '94(ish) 3S's.  I could
find no trace of this lead on any of the circuit boards inside of the
factory head unit.

Your best bet is to wire your amp's remote lead to an ignition on source
(like the power going to the head unit) and install a switch that you have
access to for turning the amp on and off.

- -Best of luck

- -Jeff

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Williams, Tommy F
Sent: Monday, August 25, 2003 3:24 PM
To: 'Paul T Kempkes'; team3s@team3s.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Power for extra strereo amp


The remote turn on is sent via the din connection from the radio.  It is not
a full 12v signal and would not turn my amplifier on.  I had to run a lead
from the back of the radio for the ignition.

Tommy

- -----Original Message-----
From: Paul T Kempkes [mailto:fretless@twcny.rr.com]
Sent: Monday, August 25, 2003 5:22 PM
To: team3s@team3s.com
Subject: Team3S: Power for extra strereo amp


Ladies and Gentlemen
I'm installing a powered subwoofer and would like to take the power ( +12v ,
ground, and remote) from the lines that power up the under seat amp (94
Stealth turbo, Infinity sound package).  The additional amp is rather small,
so I don't think I'll be blowing fuses (But we'll see...)   I've been able
to figure out that the blue wire is +12v (and always hot), and the black
wire is ground.  But which one is the "remote" that turns the amp on and
off?   Thanks much.

Drive Fast
Paul Kempkes



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
- -----------------------------------------
The information contained in this transmission may contain privileged and
confidential information and is intended only for the use of the person(s)
named above. If you are not the intended recipient, or an employee or agent
responsible for delivering this message to the intended recipient, any
review, dissemination, distribution or duplication of this communication is
strictly prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient, please contact
the sender immediately by reply e-mail and destroy all copies of the
original message. Please note that we do not accept account orders and/or
instructions by e-mail, and therefore will not be responsible for carrying
out such orders and/or instructions.



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

- -----------------------------------------
The information contained in this transmission may contain privileged and confidential information and is intended only for the use of the person(s) named above. If you are not the intended recipient, or an employee or agent responsible for delivering this message to the intended recipient, any review, dissemination, distribution or duplication of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender immediately by reply e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message. Please note that we do not accept account orders and/or instructions by e-mail, and therefore will not be responsible for carrying out such orders and/or instructions.



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 22:16:56 +0000
From: mjannusch@comcast.net
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: Q on clutch

> IMO, if you're going to get upgraded turbos and
> fuel, a stock clutch and pressure plate will not
> provide you the grip you desire.  I installed last
> night, an RPS Max series pressure plate with a
> Mitsu pressure plate (friction disc) and a
> Fidanza flywheel combo.  It feels great.  Lighter
> petal pressure than my Centerforce and it's
> grippy as hell.  I feel that it's going to be a
> great combo in the long run.

If you are going to end up making more than 450HP and doing any sort of drag
racing, that clutch setup will likely not hold up.  I had a similar setup,
with an ACT clutch (about the same clamping force as the Max plate and same
design as stock Mitsu friction disc) and I could spin it at will once the car
started making stronger power.  It was also very unforgiving on launches - too
low and you bog with the Fidanza flywheel, and too high and you roast the hell
out of the friction disc.

In my opinion, a good combo for street driving on mildly modified cars (stock
turbos), but not nearly good enough for turbo+fuel cars.  Save up for the 6-
puck, you'll probably need it.  ;-)

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 17:17:37 -0500
From: "merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: What else?

Wow!  The Kormex folks say the new tranny will be here in 5 working days.
I thought I had 3 weeks or more to leisurely piddle around with the car.

Planned piddling includes:

Replace ball joints (just ordered them from NZ, so they may not get here in
time)
Blow job for radiator (pressure test and boil out)
Resurface flywheel
Install new stock clutch, pressure plate and throwout bearing
Gut rear cat
Install new rear motor mount (if I can find it...I know it's up there
somewhere. The other three mounts have been replaced already)

What else do you guys think I should try to do whilst the trans is out and
the car is up on jack stands?

It's got a Stillen, so I don't have to futz with the cats.

I tried cleaning all the crud out of the condenser (it's blocking air flow
to the radiator), but an air gun firing through from the back side doesn't
get it out. Should I take the mother out and have a shop clean it and
straighten the fins? If so, how should I protect the A/C system while it's
out? Or is this something that should be done later at an A/C shop, after
the car is back together?

As always, all advice is welcome.

Rich/slow old poop
94 VR4/up in the air
85,000 miles








***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 20:49:24 -0400
From: <chadandcarol@charter.net>
Subject: Team3S: Wash/Wax

Hello,
This is long and drawn out to get to the simple point of a
product name and method used to have a new car shine.
 Read on for my problems.

*sigh*  You would think that washing and waxing a car
would be just simple elbow grease and a nice sweaty
t-shirt.  At least I used to think that...I recently
parked under the tree in my new backyard and found that
this tree was my enemy.  I had yellowish, green something
from the tree all over my car.  I took it to the car wash
used the soap blast, then the brush, then the soap blast,
and then rinsed.  The stuff did not come off!!! I went
directly home and washed with a sponge and some Dawn dish
soap...it still didn't come off...I had to pick it off
with my fingernails.  Was there an easier way?

After this nice wash I decided I was going to wax my
car...however, my husband said it would be a bad idea
since last spring I used the wax at the car wash and it
has weird water spots with wax on it (the dumbest thing I
could have done)...I argued that the wax would rub off the
water spots.  I was right, but after waxing it still looks
really bad close up.  (The water spots are gone; it just
looks really flat and smudgy close up.) To get my car
detailed inside and out it is $100.  I am thinking of
spending the money.... it would really help me a lot since
I worked on a gravel road all summer.... I am a weirdo
though and believe that if you can do it yourself...DO IT.
 I have the time...it is just the method, product, or
brains I am lacking.

My question.... is there a "magic" wax that someone uses?
 I use Nu Finish and I have really been happy with it on
colored cars.  My Stealth is black though and it turns my
wax pad black and from far away the car shines, but close
up it looks awful. 

Thank you,
Carol Decker

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 21:13:06 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Q on clutch

From: <mjannusch@comcast.net>
> If you are going to end up making more than 450HP and doing any sort of drag
racing, that clutch setup will likely not hold up.  I had a similar setup,
with an ACT clutch (about the same clamping force as the Max plate and same
design as stock Mitsu friction disc) and I could spin it at will once the car
started making stronger power.  It was also very unforgiving on launches - too
low and you bog with the Fidanza flywheel, and too high and you roast the hell
out of the friction disc.
> In my opinion, a good combo for street driving on mildly modified cars
(stock turbos), but not nearly good enough for turbo+fuel cars.  Save up for
the 6-puck, you'll probably need it.  ;-)
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
- --------------------------->

I agree.  This is especially true for dragging, but it applies to road racing,
too.  If you plan to go over 400hp, you'll need a clutch that's stronger than
stock.  I'm sure there are many posts in the archives (especially from ~3-4
years ago) where the "common wisdom" on the list was that the stock clutch was
good for *up to* 400 hp.  When I still had my stock clutch, I lost several
seconds on each open track lap (running 91 octane pump gas, conservative high
boost setting of 0.9bar/14psi boost) because I felt the clutch slip a bit when
I hit WOT, and had to back off to keep from polishing the clutch completely.
If I had to slow down suddenly because of a track incident, imminent danger,
or even a tight hairpin in traffic, whenever I tried to accelerate quickly in
second, the stock clutch slipped.

I now have an RPS Max 6-puck sprung-hub clutch with the street disc, and it
always feels like a solid grip.  The sprung hub keeps it very streetable in
traffic (the solid hub version is for dragging only), but when it grips, it
really holds tight.  And I don't have monster mods, either (13C turbos, Supra
pump, 550 cc's, SAFC-II) - I've only dyno'd my '91 VR-4 at at 409hp .  If
you've got ~400hp now, the stock clutch will do just fine, IMO.  But you
*will* need a stronger clutch as soon as you add any more power mods.  If
you've got it apart (and you can scrape the shekels together) my vote goes to
the RPS Max. You *are* gonna need something stronger than stock.  If you plan
to keep the car and mod it to run with the Z-06's, make a choice and put in a
stronger clutch now.

- --Forrest



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2 #239
***************************************