Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Sunday, August 24
2003 Volume 02 : Number 238
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Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 15:08:20 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Stephen C. Kempf"
<
kempfsc@mail.auburn.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Another clutch problem
There was just a very interesting discussion on our list about
clutch
master and slave cylinders that was related to, but didnt answer
a
question I have about adjustment of the clutch.
I recently had a new clutch installed in my 1993 Stealth ES (DOHC).
When
the car was returned, the clutch worked, but the pedal did not feel
right.
There is almost no resistance (in fact, I tried to pump it up the
first
time I depressed it), I can feel a bit of resistance about 1/2 way
through
the pedal movement and then not much the rest of the way to the
floor. The
clutch seems to engage about 1/2 way through the pedal movement.
It
occurred to me that there might be air in the hydraulic lines, but
before
flushing and bleeding the system, I thought Id see if anyone else on
the
list has any suggestions/insight. Also, is there some adjustment
between
the slave cylinder and the bearing arm that might be off?
The parts that were replaced were the clutch, pressure plate, throw
out
bearing, and slave cylinder.
Thank you,
Steve
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Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 17:56:31 -0400
From:
bryan.goldman@ps.ge.comSubject:
Team3S: Info on My Bad Computer & Possibly Yours Too.
Bryan Goldman
92 SOHC
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 18:07:14 -0400
From: "Ken Stanton" <
ken.c.stanton@usa.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Another clutch problem
It sounds like air in the system, but you should also thoroughly check
the
system for leaks. I'm not sure if your car has the rubber hose that
leads
up to the slave, but I have heard that it can get pinholes in it and
leak
air in.
The master cylinder typically will cause (when bad) the pedal to
feel
stiffer and engagement to be closer to the floor. Regardless, it
should be
inspected also for gunk in the reseviour, fluid level, and
leaks. Leaks
will typically show up inside the cabin, up under the
dashboard. It looks
like a goldish fluid usually.
There are adjustments to the pedal, but they move the engagement
point
primarily and shouldn't have been affected by the work you
listed.
Also, you might try the clutch in another NA 3S to see how it feels -
maybe
yours was just that stiff before!
Ken Stanton
91 Pearl White Stealth TT - his
92 White Stealth ES -
hers
"Do not mistake passion as anger." -KCS
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 19:46:57 -0700
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: Team3S: So
which doohickey makes the oil pressure gauge work?
Running around today breaking the engine in, started to do some WOT
boost
runs. My oil pressure with the new pump has been AWESOME! After making
a few
passes watched my oil pressure gauge peg out on high. "That cant be
good" I
thought, so I pulled over and lifted the oil cap. Pressure looks
normal
under there. Went back inside expecting to see the gauge drop a bit,
its
still pegged. I'm like "huh". Turned the car off and watched it go down
as
things powered down. Turned car back on, gauge on the floor, wont go
up.
Check under the cap again, pressure is there. Drove the car
around,
everything felt fine, checked under the cap a bunch, everything is
ok. Did a
few more high boost runs, bounced the redline once and went home.
All in all
about 65mi on the car since the gauge stopped working so I am
pretty sure
there is a problem with the signal.
I remember connecting all that stuff and seeing how badly the wires were
ran
under there. Tried to manage them away from hot stuff, but I would bet
that
the thing tore or melted on something. Just in case the wiring is ok,
which
sensor under there is the one for the gauge? I remember connecting 2 or
3
things that looked like pressure sensors on the side of the oil pump.
There
was a circular one that screwed in and another one that was like a
bent
shaft that was up above it. I would guess one of those two is the
sensor.
Which is it?
Thanks,
Tyson
PS Almost 200 miles on the car, everything is running great
(engine-wise).
Got a few minor bugs to work out (sticky lock, ECS and SRS
lights) but other
than that, I think everything is cool.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 22:54:43 -0400
From: "Vedran" <
1994TT@comcast.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Small harness problem
I was painting the engine bay and I removed the harness that is
branching
out to the headlights, fuse box, battery etc. I was able to put all
the
connectors back in place except these:
- -harness branching from the negative battery cable ( 2 cables with
"washers"
at the end, look like ground wires, one small plastic connector on
the same
harness)
- -harness branching from the positive battery cable.
Also where can I get good pictures of the engine compartment, it would
speed
up putting all the stuff back into the engine compartment? I do have
the CD
manual.
------------------------------
Does anyone know where to get the spoiler brake light for a 91 R/T
for
cheap? The dealership wants to charge me $265. Seems kind of steep for
just
a bunch of LEDS on a circut board.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 22:52:22 -0500
From: Jon Paine <
ppainej@attglobal.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: So which doohickey makes the oil pressure gauge work?
There are 2 oil pressure sensors - one for the gauge, one for the idiot
light. Looking from the driver side wheelwell, on the back of the
engine, the one for the gauge is the larger one, closest to you. The one
for the light is behind it, IIRC (been a while) it's piggybacked on the
same fitting the turbo oil feed comes from. The third wire runs to the
steering pump somewhere higher up on the engine.
You're right about the routing of the wires. Mine were pretty much
crispy critters when I got to them.
Jon
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 23:56:09 -0500
From: Jon Paine <
ppainej@attglobal.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Small harness problem
I have none of this wiring left in my car but I'll try to help out from
memory... Mine is a '94 TT.
I recall 2 black ground wires from the battery - the heavy one (engine
ground) runs to one of the bellhousing bolts on the front of the
transmission near the starter. The other bolts to the firewall with
another ground wire that I believe comes from the vacuum solenoids. The
bolt is marked 'elec' or summat on the head, the bolt holds nothing
else.
There should also be a woven ground strap between the intake plenum and
firewall.
There are 2 wires at the battery +, one heavy red runs to the lower
terminal on the starter relay (harnessed with the engine ground wire and
the starter relay control wire), the other (white?) runs to the
fuse/relay box.
I'm not certain from your description what the small plastic connector
would be or where it is in the harness... there are no connectors on the
ground wires in the engine bay, only ring terminals.
Jon
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Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 13:06:40 -0500
From: "William J. Crabtree" <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: spoiler brake light
Why not repair the one that you have? You can buy LED's from manyt
sources,
as well as the other componants that are there.
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#238
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