Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth    Friday, August 22 2003    Volume 02 : Number 236
 
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Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 00:11:15 -0600
From: "Donald Ashby" <dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Exhaust recommendations
 
Yes as far as I'm concerned, all else being equal more manifold pressure is usually bad. That
doesn't sound right and I'm probably not phrasing it correctly, but that's how I understand it.
Donald Ashby
'93 3000GT VR-4 (RIP)
'92 3000GT VR-4 (Vroom!)
"Don't drink and park, accidents cause people!"
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 01:19:44 -0500
From: "cody" <overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Exhaust recommendations
 
I agree.  That's why you can't compare boost pressure on one vehicle
versus pressure on another vehicle, unless they have identical intake /
exhaust mods.  Pressure alone doesn't make power, airflow does.  If air
is moving through the cylinders faster than it can be compressed, this
is a good thing.  That means more volume, meaning more power. 
 
FYI for those in the Austin / San Antonio area... there is a new AWD
Dyno going in at MZM Performance.  I plan on taking the Talon there and
renting at least two hours for tuning...  If anyone else is interested,
get in touch with me...  The dyno is being setup now, IIRC, and should
be up and running mid September....
 
- -Cody
 
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Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 08:40:40 -0400
From: bryan.goldman@ps.ge.com
Subject: Team3S: Possibly A Bad Computer?
 
I have a 92 SOHC Stealth with 140,000 miles on it that quit on me out of the
blue with little warning, after that all it will do is start for second and
quit. The only sign that something might be going wrong was about a week ago
it started to have a slight hesitation in starting up by only a second
longer than normal so when it quit on me yesterday I thought fuel pump right
away so I took it out and checked for pressure and flow, it was good. I took
out the computer and found a leaking capacitor and I replaced it without any
change. Before I buy another computer I need to know if the there is another
component that probably took it out in the first place or if they just go
after a while. Also does $150.00 sound reasonable for a rebuilt one. Thanks
for any help.
 
Bryan Goldman
92 sohc
 
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Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 09:01:57 -0700
From: "fastmax" <fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Exhaust recommendations
 
Yeah --- putting it as simply as possible no restriction = good.
 
Does anyone know if crossover pipe is required, or recommended with
a true dual exhaust on our turbo cars.
 
        Jim Berry
 
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Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 11:09:05 -0400
From: "Ken Stanton" <ken.c.stanton@usa.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Possibly A Bad Computer?
 
Bryan -
 
Does it blow smoke when it starts up?  As in, black smoke?  My guess is you
have a bad air leak, if it is after the Mass Airflow Sensor (MAS) then the
car will run terribly, if at all.  Check under the hood for any vacuum lines
or intake pipes that are damaged, and check that all connections are tight
too.  Engines run off from fuel and air - always start diagnostics there =)
 
Ken Stanton
91 Pearl White Stealth TT
Always fighting airflow problems
 
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Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 13:17:09 -0500
From: Jon Paine <ppainej@attglobal.net>
Subject: Team3S: BOV, pressure and lag time question
 
A couple comments in the lag time discussion brought a question (idea)
to mind. As I understand it, the turbos spool down quickly at closed
throttle because 1) the exhaust flow goes to nearly zero, and 2) the
turbo is operating into full head pressure.
 
Most of the lag time involved in rebuilding boost is in overcoming the
inertia of the turbo, correct? I mean, actually repressurizing the
intake system doesn't take much time, if the turbo was accelerated
faster, or simply did not lose its momentum? Would it be to any
advantage to simply blow off the entire pressure charge (or most of it,
anyway) at closed throttle and let the turbo free spin with no head
pressure (no load) until you came back onto throttle, then let the
system repressurize?
 
Jon
 
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Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 19:55:51 +0000
From: mjannusch@comcast.net
Subject: Re: Team3S: BOV, pressure and lag time question
 
> Would it be to any advantage to simply blow off the
> entire pressure charge (or most of it, anyway) at
> closed throttle and let the turbo free spin with no
> head pressure (no load) until you came back onto
> throttle, then let the system repressurize?
 
That's exactly what the BOV (stock or otherwise) does.
 
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
 
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Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 15:31:01 -0600
From: Fraser Family <b-mfraser@shaw.ca>
Subject: Team3S: GReddy Profec A solenoid replacement
 
Hello All,
For some time now I've been struggling with the installation of a used
GReddy Profec A boost controller. I spoke with a tech at GReddy and was told
that the reason I cannot get more than stock boost is that a solenoid inside
the stepper motor has gone bad, and they don't make replacements for them.
The installation was done correctly, and I still have stock boost, but it
will never go higher than ~7psi. The tech told me that when the solenoid
dies, the system reverts to stock boost. I haven't been able to find
anywhere that sells these solenoids. Any ideas as to what direction I should
take, or could take before throwing the unit in the garbage would be
extremely helpful.
Thanks in advance,
Sean Fraser
92 TT
 
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Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 15:50:03 -0700
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Exhaust recommendations
 
Yes you should certainly put one on. An X pipe would works best. In general,
true duals (I made a few) have great flow but are far too heavy due to extra
piping. To gain pounds/HP ratio you are better off with a single side
exahust.
 
Tyson
 
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Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2003 11:55:25 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: adjustable exhaust mod (was: Exhaust recommendations)
 
> <<<and in the process add 30 lbs to our already overweight car.>>>
>
> Am I right that a VR4/Stealth TT tips the scales at around 4120 lbs?
 
A little off.  More like 3700-3850, depending on how much gas you've got and whether anything's missing.  And those are numbers (+/- 10lbs.) from my actual car.
 
The 4120 number sounds closer to a Spyder weight...
 
- --Erik
'95 VR-4  www.team3s.com/~egross
 
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Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 19:23:04 -0500
From: "Canney, Charles C" <charles.c.canney@lmco.com>
Subject: Team3S: Update to previous post titled "Engine rev limited post rebuild,        what to try next?"
 
I pulled the ECU yesterday and the circuit board looks brand spanking new,
no leakage, no fish smell, etc.  So this morning I put the ECU back in and
hooked up the timing light again, started the car.  As before, it idles just
fine, and I am under the hood with the light, opening the throttle
slowly....and the RPM is climbing past (by ear) the previous limit. I get in
the car to see the tach, slowly increase throttle, and get all the way to
4500 RPM before the engine begins to stutter (before, it never got beyond
2500 RPM). If I jab the throttle, it cuts out as before at @1700 RPM, but
when I ease into it, sometimes it get to 3K or 4K (varies a bit). If I am
above idle (slowly increasing RPM) and at any point increase the rate of
throttle opening (greater than 500 RPM per second), car goes into stutter
mode immediately (throttle opening velocity hyper-sensitive).
So I get back to the timing light after exhausting throttle opening
variations, and start watching the timing advance. At idle, advance is
steady @21-22 (just off the scale to the left). Slowing opening throttle
(RPM increasing to @ 3-4K), advance moves left, to @30 max (estimated). It
is a linear change, not jumping around at all. Jabbing the throttle quickly,
which nets no more than 1700 RPM, the timing mark stays steady at @21-22
degrees (regular flashes even with the engine stuttering).  It appears the
ECU is commanding a consistent spark and the proper advance for the RPM,
even when the engine is sputtering big time.
Now I am starting to suspect fuel supply (can't keep up?). I put a brand new
factory fuel filter in during the rebuild, I hope with flow arrow in the
right direction. Almost certain it was installed right but will check that.
 
I thought that with fuel injection, if flow was impeded, pressure drops to
where the injectors dribble (instead of spray), causing roughness even at
idle. Is this not true?  This engine runs smooth until I force it to
stutter... Reminds of a Q-jet bog at WOT with the air valve spring tension
set too loose, secondary's top butterfly pops open too quickly, lots of
air+no gas=bog.
I have already ordered a new fuel pump. I am still researching a fuel
pressure gauge (been to the 316 page, thanks Jeff), but I was hoping for a
temporary test setup vs the permanent ($$$) gauge installation.
Has anyone had a fuel pump fail (in flow rate vs no flow) or had a fuel line
restriction? Or maybe a fuel pressure regulator failure? Were the symptoms
similar?
 
Thanks,
Charles Canney
ps While waiting on pump, I plan a fuel flow test. Hope I don't blow up the
garage.
 
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Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 21:54:31 -0700
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: Team3S: Status of TySpeed (WAS: Exhaust recommendations)
 
The latest is that my flange finding led me to custom manufacturing. There
simply isn't anyone other than Marwell that makes a 3"ID 2 hole flange!
Marwell will not work with me unless I buy 10+K/mo of inventory and none of
the suppliers they listed stock that particular flange which is only used on
a few uncommon models of Fords... That means flanges come at double price +
shipping + 2 weeks out. Lord forbid you call to check on your order ether!
That was the problem with my old supplier. They thought taking 4 weeks to
order a box of flanges from their Portland warehouse was normal. Even then
the flange itself is not perfect and takes about 20-30 of modification and
tool wear to stretch the bolt holes out to the proper diameter.
 
Far as getting the things custom made, Bob (EK2) was too busy and sent me to
a shop that he would have used for the purpose. They wanted $18/flange, and
that's with bulk order! That is sick! If you look on JCWhitney, flanges with
similar amount of cuts sell for under $2/ea. I could afford to pay as much
as $5-6/ea but no more, otherwise the price becomes way too high (3 flanges
on the DP, 2 on the TP.) Test pipes that sell for $25-30 would cost me over
$45 in material alone, that just wont work.
 
Out of desperation and lack of time, I handed the job off to my dad last
week. He will be pounding the streets in Kent and Auburn one of these days
with the CAD drawings that I made trying to find someone that came make the
things.
 
I don't mind buying quantity ether. I think all in all I sold about 15 pipes
and 3 cat-backs. The word of mouth of the awesome performance of my products
spread so much that to this day I am still getting 4-8 calls per week about
my stuff, almost a year after I stopped making them, and I cant do anything
about it! Sucks really....
 
That's about it...
 
Tyson
 
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Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 23:44:37 -0500
From: Jon Paine <ppainej@attglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: BOV, pressure and lag time question
 
OK, I thought the BOV was just to blow off the excess charge
(overshoot, overpressure) over desired boost that would build up
between the time the throttle plate closed and the turbo stopped, or
before the wastegates would open (during acceleration). Didn't think
the BOV would relieve any pressure below the boost setting... So much
for that thought.
 
Jon
 
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Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 22:16:32 -0700
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: Team3S: Starter wires. HELP!
 
Well this should be obvious, but its not.
 
The starter wire harness has 3 wires in it.
 
1. A fat one with a red boot on it
2. A fat black one
3. A skinny red one with a plastic connector.
 
Wire 1 has power at all times, looks like its connected to the battery all
the time.
Wire 3 has power only when key is turned to "crank" position. I take it this
makes it an actuator wire?
Wire 2 is the puzzle. Being black and all I would assume it to be the
ground.
 
The starter: Starter has 3 connections on. 2 12mm socket studs with nuts on
them (one lower and one upper) and a connector the wire number 3.
 
First looking at the book (which does not specifically show which way to
connect the wires) I saw a picture that showed a wire with a boot on it
connected to the top terminal on the starter. This was counter-intuitive as
the wires did not seem to sit naturally, but I connected it that way anyway.
Wire #1 to top stud on starter, Wire #2 on the bottom and the actuator on
the only place it can go. After trying to crank, it was obvious that the
starter was not connected right.
 
I reversed wire #1 and #2 which to me was the logical way to connect things.
I then tried to turn the car over. I could hear the starter click and
observed the negative battery terminal start to smoke and melt.
 
Long story short, after long and tedious search for a "bad ground"
connection on both ends of the damn ground wire (it runs all the way to the
battery. Why it doesn't ground on a crossmemeber I don't know) I
accidentally tried to start with the ground wire disconnected. To my
amazement the starter worked perfectly!
 
Wire # 2 is now just hanging there but I am utterly confused as to how the
starter is working and where that wire is actually supposed to go.
 
Any help would be great. Taking a picture of your starter wire connections
would help a ton too!
 
Tyson
 
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Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2003 00:31:25 -0500
From: "cody" <overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Starter wires. HELP!
 
It works because it also grounds through the engine ground...
 
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Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2003 04:04:34 -0400
From: Roger Lee <rcleeny@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Starter wires. HELP!
 
Wire #2 connects to the engine.  Looks like a point slightly above where it
comes out of the harness.  I can't tell for sure looking at the picture.  I
have an A/T and mine is different.
 
One of the two "large" terminals on the magnetic switch is for the Field
coil wire coming from the starter itself.  The book says terminal "M"
(maybe there is a marking on the magnetic switch) the terminal on the right.
 
The other "large" terminal "B" is for the large red wire from the battery.
 
The starter is grounded by its mounting bolts.
 
At least that's my best guess.
Roger Lee
 
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2 #236
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