Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Friday, August 22
2003 Volume 02 : Number 236
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 00:11:15 -0600
From: "Donald Ashby" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Exhaust recommendations
Yes as far as I'm concerned, all else being equal more manifold pressure is
usually bad. That
doesn't sound right and I'm probably not phrasing it
correctly, but that's how I understand it.
Donald Ashby
'93 3000GT VR-4
(RIP)
'92 3000GT VR-4 (Vroom!)
"Don't drink and park, accidents cause
people!"
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 01:19:44 -0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Exhaust recommendations
I agree. That's why you can't compare boost pressure on one
vehicle
versus pressure on another vehicle, unless they have identical intake
/
exhaust mods. Pressure alone doesn't make power, airflow does.
If air
is moving through the cylinders faster than it can be compressed,
this
is a good thing. That means more volume, meaning more power.
FYI for those in the Austin / San Antonio area... there is a new
AWD
Dyno going in at MZM Performance. I plan on taking the Talon there
and
renting at least two hours for tuning... If anyone else is
interested,
get in touch with me... The dyno is being setup now, IIRC,
and should
be up and running mid September....
- -Cody
------------------------------
I have a 92 SOHC Stealth with 140,000 miles on it that quit on me out of
the
blue with little warning, after that all it will do is start for second
and
quit. The only sign that something might be going wrong was about a week
ago
it started to have a slight hesitation in starting up by only a
second
longer than normal so when it quit on me yesterday I thought fuel pump
right
away so I took it out and checked for pressure and flow, it was good. I
took
out the computer and found a leaking capacitor and I replaced it without
any
change. Before I buy another computer I need to know if the there is
another
component that probably took it out in the first place or if they
just go
after a while. Also does $150.00 sound reasonable for a rebuilt one.
Thanks
for any help.
Bryan Goldman
92 sohc
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 09:01:57 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Exhaust recommendations
Yeah --- putting it as simply as possible no restriction = good.
Does anyone know if crossover pipe is required, or recommended with
a
true dual exhaust on our turbo cars.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 11:09:05 -0400
From: "Ken Stanton" <
ken.c.stanton@usa.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Possibly A Bad Computer?
Bryan -
Does it blow smoke when it starts up? As in, black smoke? My
guess is you
have a bad air leak, if it is after the Mass Airflow Sensor
(MAS) then the
car will run terribly, if at all. Check under the hood
for any vacuum lines
or intake pipes that are damaged, and check that all
connections are tight
too. Engines run off from fuel and air - always
start diagnostics there =)
Ken Stanton
91 Pearl White Stealth TT
Always fighting airflow
problems
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 13:17:09 -0500
From: Jon Paine <
ppainej@attglobal.net>
Subject:
Team3S: BOV, pressure and lag time question
A couple comments in the lag time discussion brought a question (idea)
to mind. As I understand it, the turbos spool down quickly at closed
throttle because 1) the exhaust flow goes to nearly zero, and 2) the
turbo is operating into full head pressure.
Most of the lag time involved in rebuilding boost is in overcoming the
inertia of the turbo, correct? I mean, actually repressurizing the
intake system doesn't take much time, if the turbo was accelerated
faster, or simply did not lose its momentum? Would it be to any
advantage to simply blow off the entire pressure charge (or most of it,
anyway) at closed throttle and let the turbo free spin with no head
pressure (no load) until you came back onto throttle, then let the
system repressurize?
Jon
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 19:55:51 +0000
From:
mjannusch@comcast.netSubject: Re:
Team3S: BOV, pressure and lag time question
> Would it be to any advantage to simply blow off the
> entire
pressure charge (or most of it, anyway) at
> closed throttle and let the
turbo free spin with no
> head pressure (no load) until you came back
onto
> throttle, then let the system repressurize?
That's exactly what the BOV (stock or otherwise) does.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 15:31:01 -0600
From: Fraser Family <
b-mfraser@shaw.ca>
Subject: Team3S:
GReddy Profec A solenoid replacement
Hello All,
For some time now I've been struggling with the installation
of a used
GReddy Profec A boost controller. I spoke with a tech at GReddy and
was told
that the reason I cannot get more than stock boost is that a
solenoid inside
the stepper motor has gone bad, and they don't make
replacements for them.
The installation was done correctly, and I still have
stock boost, but it
will never go higher than ~7psi. The tech told me that
when the solenoid
dies, the system reverts to stock boost. I haven't been
able to find
anywhere that sells these solenoids. Any ideas as to what
direction I should
take, or could take before throwing the unit in the
garbage would be
extremely helpful.
Thanks in advance,
Sean
Fraser
92 TT
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 15:50:03 -0700
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Exhaust recommendations
Yes you should certainly put one on. An X pipe would works best. In
general,
true duals (I made a few) have great flow but are far too heavy due
to extra
piping. To gain pounds/HP ratio you are better off with a single
side
exahust.
Tyson
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2003 11:55:25 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: RE: adjustable exhaust mod (was: Exhaust recommendations)
> <<<and in the process add 30 lbs to our already overweight
car.>>>
>
> Am I right that a VR4/Stealth TT tips the
scales at around 4120 lbs?
A little off. More like 3700-3850, depending on how much gas you've
got and whether anything's missing. And those are numbers (+/- 10lbs.)
from my actual car.
The 4120 number sounds closer to a Spyder weight...
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 19:23:04 -0500
From: "Canney, Charles C" <
charles.c.canney@lmco.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Update to previous post titled "Engine rev limited post
rebuild, what to try next?"
I pulled the ECU yesterday and the circuit board looks brand spanking
new,
no leakage, no fish smell, etc. So this morning I put the ECU back
in and
hooked up the timing light again, started the car. As before, it
idles just
fine, and I am under the hood with the light, opening the
throttle
slowly....and the RPM is climbing past (by ear) the previous limit.
I get in
the car to see the tach, slowly increase throttle, and get all the
way to
4500 RPM before the engine begins to stutter (before, it never got
beyond
2500 RPM). If I jab the throttle, it cuts out as before at @1700 RPM,
but
when I ease into it, sometimes it get to 3K or 4K (varies a bit). If I
am
above idle (slowly increasing RPM) and at any point increase the rate
of
throttle opening (greater than 500 RPM per second), car goes into
stutter
mode immediately (throttle opening velocity hyper-sensitive).
So
I get back to the timing light after exhausting throttle opening
variations,
and start watching the timing advance. At idle, advance is
steady @21-22
(just off the scale to the left). Slowing opening throttle
(RPM increasing to
@ 3-4K), advance moves left, to @30 max (estimated). It
is a linear change,
not jumping around at all. Jabbing the throttle quickly,
which nets no more
than 1700 RPM, the timing mark stays steady at @21-22
degrees (regular
flashes even with the engine stuttering). It appears the
ECU is
commanding a consistent spark and the proper advance for the RPM,
even when
the engine is sputtering big time.
Now I am starting to suspect fuel supply
(can't keep up?). I put a brand new
factory fuel filter in during the
rebuild, I hope with flow arrow in the
right direction. Almost certain it was
installed right but will check that.
I thought that with fuel injection, if flow was impeded, pressure drops
to
where the injectors dribble (instead of spray), causing roughness even
at
idle. Is this not true? This engine runs smooth until I force it
to
stutter... Reminds of a Q-jet bog at WOT with the air valve spring
tension
set too loose, secondary's top butterfly pops open too quickly, lots
of
air+no gas=bog.
I have already ordered a new fuel pump. I am still
researching a fuel
pressure gauge (been to the 316 page, thanks Jeff), but I
was hoping for a
temporary test setup vs the permanent ($$$) gauge
installation.
Has anyone had a fuel pump fail (in flow rate vs no flow) or
had a fuel line
restriction? Or maybe a fuel pressure regulator failure? Were
the symptoms
similar?
Thanks,
Charles Canney
ps While waiting on pump, I plan a fuel flow
test. Hope I don't blow up the
garage.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 21:54:31 -0700
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Status of TySpeed (WAS: Exhaust recommendations)
The latest is that my flange finding led me to custom manufacturing.
There
simply isn't anyone other than Marwell that makes a 3"ID 2 hole
flange!
Marwell will not work with me unless I buy 10+K/mo of inventory and
none of
the suppliers they listed stock that particular flange which is only
used on
a few uncommon models of Fords... That means flanges come at double
price +
shipping + 2 weeks out. Lord forbid you call to check on your order
ether!
That was the problem with my old supplier. They thought taking 4 weeks
to
order a box of flanges from their Portland warehouse was normal. Even
then
the flange itself is not perfect and takes about 20-30 of modification
and
tool wear to stretch the bolt holes out to the proper diameter.
Far as getting the things custom made, Bob (EK2) was too busy and sent me
to
a shop that he would have used for the purpose. They wanted $18/flange,
and
that's with bulk order! That is sick! If you look on JCWhitney, flanges
with
similar amount of cuts sell for under $2/ea. I could afford to pay as
much
as $5-6/ea but no more, otherwise the price becomes way too high (3
flanges
on the DP, 2 on the TP.) Test pipes that sell for $25-30 would cost
me over
$45 in material alone, that just wont work.
Out of desperation and lack of time, I handed the job off to my dad
last
week. He will be pounding the streets in Kent and Auburn one of these
days
with the CAD drawings that I made trying to find someone that came make
the
things.
I don't mind buying quantity ether. I think all in all I sold about 15
pipes
and 3 cat-backs. The word of mouth of the awesome performance of my
products
spread so much that to this day I am still getting 4-8 calls per
week about
my stuff, almost a year after I stopped making them, and I cant do
anything
about it! Sucks really....
That's about it...
Tyson
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 23:44:37 -0500
From: Jon Paine <
ppainej@attglobal.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: BOV, pressure and lag time question
OK, I thought the BOV was just to blow off the excess charge
(overshoot, overpressure) over desired boost that would build up
between
the time the throttle plate closed and the turbo stopped, or
before the
wastegates would open (during acceleration). Didn't think
the BOV would
relieve any pressure below the boost setting... So much
for that
thought.
Jon
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 22:16:32 -0700
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Starter wires. HELP!
Well this should be obvious, but its not.
The starter wire harness has 3 wires in it.
1. A fat one with a red boot on it
2. A fat black one
3. A skinny red
one with a plastic connector.
Wire 1 has power at all times, looks like its connected to the battery
all
the time.
Wire 3 has power only when key is turned to "crank"
position. I take it this
makes it an actuator wire?
Wire 2 is the puzzle.
Being black and all I would assume it to be the
ground.
The starter: Starter has 3 connections on. 2 12mm socket studs with nuts
on
them (one lower and one upper) and a connector the wire number 3.
First looking at the book (which does not specifically show which way
to
connect the wires) I saw a picture that showed a wire with a boot on
it
connected to the top terminal on the starter. This was counter-intuitive
as
the wires did not seem to sit naturally, but I connected it that way
anyway.
Wire #1 to top stud on starter, Wire #2 on the bottom and the
actuator on
the only place it can go. After trying to crank, it was obvious
that the
starter was not connected right.
I reversed wire #1 and #2 which to me was the logical way to connect
things.
I then tried to turn the car over. I could hear the starter click
and
observed the negative battery terminal start to smoke and melt.
Long story short, after long and tedious search for a "bad
ground"
connection on both ends of the damn ground wire (it runs all the way
to the
battery. Why it doesn't ground on a crossmemeber I don't know)
I
accidentally tried to start with the ground wire disconnected. To
my
amazement the starter worked perfectly!
Wire # 2 is now just hanging there but I am utterly confused as to how
the
starter is working and where that wire is actually supposed to go.
Any help would be great. Taking a picture of your starter wire
connections
would help a ton too!
Tyson
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2003 00:31:25 -0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Starter wires. HELP!
It works because it also grounds through the engine ground...
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2003 04:04:34 -0400
From: Roger Lee <
rcleeny@optonline.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Starter wires. HELP!
Wire #2 connects to the engine. Looks like a point slightly above
where it
comes out of the harness. I can't tell for sure looking at the
picture. I
have an A/T and mine is different.
One of the two "large" terminals on the magnetic switch is for the
Field
coil wire coming from the starter itself. The book says terminal
"M"
(maybe there is a marking on the magnetic switch) the terminal on the
right.
The other "large" terminal "B" is for the large red wire from the
battery.
The starter is grounded by its mounting bolts.
At least that's my best guess.
Roger Lee
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#236
***************************************