Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Monday, August 18
2003 Volume 02 : Number 233
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2003 21:03:11 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
boost controller
I didn't see that any one answered this query --- a boost controller
allows
you to increase the power output of your engine. Any time you
increase
it's output you increase the danger of breaking something. Stock the
car
produces about 320 hp at 12 pounds of boost --- without supporting
mods
you can increase the boost to about 15 psi and pick up about 20 to
30
hp. To go beyound 15 psi you'd better start looking in the archives.
There
are a batch of posts about getting big HP out of these cars --- the
more
HP the more mods and the more $$.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 08:08:27 -0400
From:
jemather@umich.eduSubject: Team3S:
Crank turning
My Stealth turned a bearing about a week ago, and I am working at getting
the
car back on the road. I have heard that the 3/S crank in some
model years is
rolled, rather than forged, and as such, cannot be
machined. I was just
wondering if this was true, because I'm not
particularly anxious to shell out
$650 for a new crank right before I go
back to school.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 10:05:55 -0500
From: "Canney, Charles C" <
charles.c.canney@lmco.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Engine rev limited post rebuild, what to try next?
Howdy,
Car is a 91 Stealth TT. Symptoms are: starts fine, idles great
but will not
rev past 2500 RPM.
Just got the car running after 8 months, had to replace 24 valves,
16
guides, 12 rockers, one intake cam, waterpump, T-belt, tensioner,
idler
pulley, tensioner pulley, plugs, plug wires, thermostat, fuel filter,
all
rubber hoses and assorted fasteners.
Slowly increasing throttle displacement, engine seems fine until @ 1700
RPM
and begins stuttering, like it looses spark or fuel. Goosing the
throttle,
engine gets to maybe 2K RPM, but dies the same way, acts like it
hits a rev
limiter.
Things I have checked so far:
- - Pulled the cam covers and verified the
timing marks on all four cams still
line up perfectly with the crank balancer
timing mark on the "T".
- - checked all vacuum lines, found a few swapped,
fixed that.
- - checked both MAF and TPS plugs carefully, cleaned/reseated.
- - checked timing was steady at 4 degrees, I think 5 +/-2 is the
recommended,
with grounded timing plug. With the ECU timing pin ungrounded,
it read a
steady 20 degrees at idle.
- - On advice from a fellow 3S
owner, I unplugged the MAF and checked for any
change. The check engine light
came on and the idle was a bit less smooth.
When I tried to rev it (slowly or
quickly), same symptoms as before, except
it didn't cut out until 2500 RPM
(500 RPM increase). The engine was
noticeably less smooth at any RPM (but not
objectionably so), which may be
as expected without the MAF connected. I then
reconnected the MAF, the CE
light went out, engine ran smoother, but the rev
limit was still @ 2-2.5K
RPM.
I started draining the 8 month old gas out of the tank, to replace
with
fresh. Siphon hose hit a restriction going down the filler neck and was
only
able to drain 5/8ths of the tank. About then, I gave up for the day
since it
was 100 degrees and the box fan was not helping much.
One other thing I did try was to hold the accelerator pedal past the
point
of misfire (not for very long) but the motor does not die, it just
keeps
stuttering, like it lacks either spark or fuel. I did not think to
check the
timing during the stuttering event but now wonder if that might be
a good
idea?
Anybody know if there is a drain plug in the fuel tank (I glanced,
didn't
see one)?
My gut feel is that fuel is not being supplied beyond what the motor
needs
to idle. A data logger would be nice, but don't have one.
What I plan to try:
- - check fuel pressure at the rail, any ideas on
how to do this safely and
without the special adapter called for in the
manual?
- - check the ECU for melted caps or other parts (car sat in the
garage for 8
months, maybe the ECU coincidentally just died?)
Any ideas on what to do next are appreciated. thanks,
Charles Canney
------------------------------
If you had to change the fuel filter and you drained most of the gas, you
could have dirty injectors. Did you put something back in the gas tank
after you drained it? Condensate tends to go to the bottom of the tank - you may
have plugged up your new fuel filter. If you suspect contaminated fuel,
drain some into a glass container - it will look like mocha frappacino if it has
water in it.
Your idea about checking the ECU caps is good, as well as checking fuel
pressure into the fuel rail.
Did you check the coils yet?
Chuck Willis
------------------------------
I have been getting low readings I don't believe from my oil pressure gauge
in my '94 VR4 since day one. After being in the shop, I got no
reading. Went under the car and found the harness connection off.
Cleaned and reconnected it but the connector seems loose.
Looks like if I removed the side splash guard in the right front wheel
well, I could get better access to the sending unit. Anyone ever changed
theirs?
Chuck Willis
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 10:09:11 -0600
From: "Curtis McConnell" <
Curtis.McConnell@Pulte.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Vibration issue still going.....
I have a bad vibration from about 2k-4k rpm's. I posted about
this
before and though it was the carrier bearings or the u-joints on
the
driveshaft. After new carrier bearings and swapping out a
good
driveshaft, it's still there.
A few replies I got mentioned RPM related = motor/tranny issue.
Speed
related = Driveshaft.
Now I'm thinking the motor mounts may be shot. What are the symptoms
of
bad motor mounts? How can I make sure that is the problem without
paying
the $$$ to replace them and have it turn out that wasn't it.
The motor and transmission have about 10k mi on them, so can't
imagine
it is anything internal.
Curtis McConnell
1995 Vr-4 Spyder
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 12:20:04 -0400
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: Vibration issue still going.....
See if it happens at the same speed or at the same RPM. Try
different
gears, speeds, and depress your clutch while that is happening.
If
depressing the clutch does not help, then it is not the engine
mounts.
Philip
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 10:24:24 -0600
From: "Curtis McConnell" <
Curtis.McConnell@Pulte.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Vibration issue still going.....
It is at the same RPM in each gear 1st -6th starts about
2,000-2,500
RPMs and goes to about 4,000 RPMs. If I put in the clutch the
vibration
goes away.
Curtis McConnell
1995 Vr-4 Spyder
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 09:27:41 -0600 (MDT)
From: Jim Floyd <
jim_floyd7@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: anybody ever change the oil pressure sending unit?
If you are talking about the round thing that screws into the block with a
little spade terminal on the end I have changed it twice.
------------------------------
Yep. Did changing it twice help anything?
Did you do it yourself, Jim?
Chuck
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 12:34:07 -0400
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
RE: Team3S: Vibration issue still going.....
Then it is not the driveshaft! You can visually inspect at least 3 of
the
motor mounts (or maybe even 4, depends on whom you ask) and see if they
are
worn out completely to cause such a severe vibration that happens
even
during normal driving.
Philip
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 10:36:54 -0600
From: "Curtis McConnell" <
Curtis.McConnell@Pulte.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Vibration issue still going.....
It happens under any kind of acceleration. Light or WOT. Is
there
anything particular I should be looking for? How hard are they
to
replace?
Curtis McConnell
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 12:37:18 -0400
From: "Williams, Tommy F" <
WilliamsTF@bernstein.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Braking Problem
Problem has been solved after purchasing new tires which got rid of the
high
speed vibration issue and finally decided to have the rotors cut
which
solved my breaking problem with "new" PowerStop rotors. As you
may recall
this is the second set of replacement rotors received from the
Brake
Warehouse. I found it hard to believe that two sets of rotors
could be
warped on arrival from the warehouse. I WILL NEVER BUY THERE
AGAIN!
Happy to have the problem solved but boy what a waste of time, money,
and
effort.
Tommy
'96 VR-4
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 12:25:49 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Vibration issue still going.....
Is the vibration just under load, or does it occur if you're coasting
or
under partial throttle.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 13:28:55 -0600
From: "Curtis McConnell" <
Curtis.McConnell@Pulte.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Vibration issue still going.....
It is under any acceleration. Light to WOT. Not while I am coasting.
Curtis McConnell
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 16:23:11 -0400
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
RE: Team3S: Vibration issue still going.....
I have not replaced my motor mounts yet, so I can't tell. Two or there
of
them are visible and accessible, but the fourth one it all the way
behind
the engine and is a PITA. You should inspect the integrity of the
rubber
core of each motor mount. Look at the most visible one on the
left
(driver's) side of the car and you will understand what I am talking
about.
Philip
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 16:29:21 -0400
From: "Bedrock" <
r.bedrick@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Vibration issue still going.....
Mine has had a growl not a vibration under the same conditions , I'm
going
to change the rear end to another type of Red Line and Check for a vent
on
the case. I seem to remember either a vacuum or pressure sound when
I took
out the plug last year.
Bob
White/Red 91 RT/TT, Original
at 140,000+
------------------------------
the service manual says high oil pressure readings can be cause by a pluged
oil pressure relief valve. anybody know where this is or whether it is
accessible without removing the engine?
Chuck Willis
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 15:51:16 -0500 (CDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: anybody know about an oil pressure relief valve?
Its part of the oil pump..sometimes just a ball & spring.
- ---
www.SpeedToys.com: Geoff
Mohler
orders@speedtoys.comTeam3S/3Si.org
Vendor approved brake discounter; also,
parts for Toyota, Audi, BMW,
Mercedes, Porsche, SAAB, Volvo.
Where do you buy YOUR brakes? I can
help...asking is free! :)
"If its in stock, we have it!"
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 17:04:44 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: anybody know about an oil pressure relief valve?
Oops. Geoff's right. I was thinking of the switch that diverts
oil to/from the oil cooler. The relief in our cars consists of a spring,
plunger, and retainer. I'm not sure if you can get to it.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 16:36:39 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Crank turning
Not sure about your use of the term rolled --- the two choices offered
were
forged and cast. First gen was cast, second gen was forged --- all
replacement
cranks from the dealer are forged.
Book sez --- the forged cranks are 'treated' without saying how. The crank
can
machined but limit the amount of material removed to .010" even
though you
can buy bearings up to .030" over. The cranks are undercut at the
edges of
the bearing surface and the counter weight and removing too much
material
removes the undercut. The undercut is supposed to releive stress [
on the
crank not in your life ]. If they rework the crank have it nitrided
and polished
along with whatever else is required.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 10:38:01 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: anybody ever change the oil pressure sending unit?
The sending unit was leaking on my '91 VR-4 a month ago, so I had it
replaced.
I didn't do it myself, but it wasn't a pricey fix for the unit or
the labor.
I think it was accessible without removing anything (but on a
rack). There
was no change on the gauge - I had oil pressure readings
before and after the
repair, BTW...
- ---Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 20:23:13 EDT
From:
Klusmanp@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Broken
timing belt - lessons and options
Lesson #1: If you forget to replace the oil cap off after adding oil and
then
drive the car on the higway for 3 hours you will coat the entire driver
side
engine bay with about 1qt. oil. If you use a high pressure soap/water
sprayer
to clean the engine bay you will force oil and water under the
timing belt
covers.
Lesson #2: If the timing belt gets oily/wet it will fail several weeks
later.
Your valves will be bent and you will be looking at about $4,000 to
have your
local mechanic pull the heads, rebuild them, install them on the
car, new
timing belt, etc.
Options:
1) Let the local shop do the entire job. How much should this cost? Two
places I talked to today quoted $4,000.
2) Do the entire job myself including rebuilding the heads. How much $ for
new valves, valve guides, lifters (they tick, need to replace them), seals,
etc.
Is there a standard head rebuilt kit I can purchase?
3) Do the entire job myself except for the heads. Can I buy rebuilt heads
with core exchange? How much $$? How much should a local shop charge to
rebuild
the heads for me w/ new valves, guides, lifters, etc?
Thanks for the help!
Paul Klusman
91 VR4/low friction timing belt/ custom asymmetric
valves
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 19:48:06 -0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Broken timing belt - lessons and options
Do all the work yourself except rebuilding the heads. Buy the
parts
from a reputable dealer that will give you a good price, and take it
all
to a machine shop - they will charge you from $100 - $300 per
head
depending on how much they like you.
You can get this done
for well under $1500, and could prolly do it for
less than 800 using all
stock stuff, and getting a good deal on the
machine work.
-
-Cody
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 18:56:27 -0700 (Pacific Daylight Time)
From:
"Jeff & Debby Kelley" <
spiritliving@canby.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 93 Stealth for Sale!
If anyone is interested, I have a 93 Base Stealth for sale.
103,000
Black Loaded in great shape, 2nd owner, Automatic trans.
I hate to sell it
but wife says it's time, to many toys.
Canby, Oregon area.
503-266-4230 $6495.00 OBO
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 21:08:04 -0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
MAS MOD Expanded
Hmmm... tuning rich is good for preserving your engine? Someone
correct
me if I'm wrong, but what about all the oil that gets washed off of
your
cylinder walls? I suppose it's better than lean which
causes
detonation/ knock...
What are you using for the tuning Nick?
Riyan
93 rt tt
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#233
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