Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Saturday, August 16
2003 Volume 02 : Number 231
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 13:55:35 -0700
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: engine / turbo failure
I'll second that. Nothing that could possibly happen to a turbo would
cause
0 oil pressure. And even if they suggested to replace oil pump and
you
didn't you still have grounds. Mechanics when doing this stuff will
suggest
to replace every moving part on the car. It is unreasonable to do so.
The
oil pumps can be inspected and they can tell if the thing will fail in
4
days or not. It can also be rebuilt. Bottom line, this is a very
clear
indication that they did not assemble the engine properly and now, as
shops
always do, are trying to weasel out of it.
Tyson
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2003 09:57:30 +0100
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: battery drain / charging system problem
After $950 in parts and $800 in labor, the service on
the Stealth is
complete. I had the Mitsu dealer in York (OLD
York! (-; ) replace
everything listed at
http://www.team3s.com/~matthews/100k_service_parts_list.html
plus an
alternator and return all parts for inspection. The old belts
and hoses
look like new, but the tensioners and pulleys were definitely ready
to go
(water pump isn't great, either). The old alternator looks fine,
and I'm
hoping it can be repaired for resale (anyone interested?). All
of the
squeaks are now gone, and the engine purrs like new! I'm really
pleased.
As for the current draw...
When I drove the car home, I was surprised and disappointed to see that
the
Radio Shack alternator tester (plugged into the cigarette lighter) still
did
not register voltages in the "engine on" range (13.5, 14.0, 15.0).
However,
unlike before, it did register the highest "engine off" voltage
(12.5)
regardless of RPM; with the old alternator, it would read 11.0 at
idle, 12.0
when driving normally and sometimes 12.5 would blink when I revved
it up.
According to the manual (ELECTRICAL, Volume 2, page 8-220), the
normal
regulated voltage range is 13.1 - 15.4 VDC, with spec limit at 70%
of
nominal output current...
I measured VDC when I got home and then again three times since (alarm
on):
12.97 VDC evening (immediately after shutting off the engine)
12.56 VDC
morning
12.52 VDC afternoon
12.48 VDC morning
Compare that to my previous tests with the old alternator:
Test 1 (alarm on overnight):
12.8 VDC night
12.4 VDC morning
Test 2 (alarm off overnight):
12.83 VDC night
12.63 VDC
morning
12.54 VDC evening
12.45 VDC morning
So the battery is still draining, but not as quickly. I just repeated
the
ampere draw test as well (multimeter in series with negative
batter
pole/cable):
door open: 2.10 (1.04 with dome light off, one door light on)
everything
off: .06-.07
pull BAT fuse: drops to .03
Compare that to my previous tests with the old alternator:
door open: 2.18 (1.12 with dome light off, one door light on)
everything
off: .10 - .13
pull BAT fuse: drops to .06 - .08
I'm curious what other Stealths/3000GTs/GTOs see for current draw
under
these conditions...
*** Team3S, 3SI #0030, GTOUK #155
***
http://www.the-matthews.com/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R Mk1
(1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer, Blitz Super Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery
Redline synth
fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff= SPHvy)
PF cryoed rotors, R4S pads, SS
lines w/SBs, red calipers
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171
mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno
Session: 367 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2003 10:35:03 +0100
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: battery drain / charging system problem
I just tested the voltage again with the engine on and the alternator
tester
now reads in the normal "engine on" range (14.0) and the multimeter
measured
14.42 VDC. Not sure how to explain the readings in the car on
the way home
from the shop two days ago, but all looks normal now.
Still curious to know
what others see for current draw with everything
off...
------------------------------
does anyone know where i can find a diagram of the oil flowplath for a
91
vr-4 ( from the pump through the engine and turbos then back to the oil
pan
)... i really need one if i'm to get this SOB at the shop who is
working on
my engine to rebuild my engine under warrinty
vr,
Ryan Phillips, USN, USS Duluth (LPD-6)
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2003 13:56:15 -0400
From: "Bedrock" <
r.bedrick@comcast.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Recall and Red Line oil
Picked up my car yesterday at noon, no problem in and out the door with
the
key in 3min. Had myself worked up for a fight and got none. I think
Ill
park in the street for a couple of days to make sure it doesn't
leak.
Bob
White/Red 91 RT/TT, Original at 140,000+
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2003 10:57:49 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
oil flowpath
The shop manual or the CD version of the manual has a page showing
the
engine oiling.
I scanned a copy I'll send seperately --- the manual has a cleaner version
!!!
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Hi All! I was wondering if I should put a MAS mod in my
car. 94 rt tt. I
will have a boost controller in soon
and a k&n air filter too. Any
suggestions on weather
its good or bad? I like to hear as many suggestions
as
possible. Don't wanna hurt my baby! Thanks Jeff Davis
"CNTSEEME"
------------------------------
Speculation has arisen that maybe all my Getrag 6 speed needs is oil.
As you may or may not recall, it has been leaking for a couple or
years
and, a few weeks ago, it started missing shifts, then jumping out
of
gear. I figger it's out of or low on fluid. So, "The Stealth Boys"
(my
local Cedar Rapids support group) and I plan to crawl under there
and
fill 'er up with
<fontfamily><param>Arial</param><smaller>2.5 qts of
GL-4
grade 75W-90 gear oil </smaller></fontfamily>next weekend
and see how it
reacts.
The best I can hope for is that it miraculously starts shifting
properly,
staying in gear, and doesn't make nasty, expensive noises.
The worst is that nothing improves. If so, we will proceed to drop it
out
of the car and fix or replace it as we originally planned to do
next
weekend.
Assuming for a moment that it does appear to be operating properly...
1. What damage, if any, have I probably done by running it dry?
2. What evil noises will it make or what behavior should we
listen/look
for that might indicate internal damage?
3. Are there any tests we can run on the jack stands or on the road
that
will indicate problems?
Even if it does appear to functioning properly after filling, we
probably
should take the tranny out this winter and attempt to seal it up.
Is
sealing it up something we can do ourselves, or is this a tranny
shop
job?
Rich/slow old poop
94 VR4
------------------------------
> Hi All! I was wondering if I should put a MAS mod in my
> car.
94 rt tt. I will have a boost controller in soon
> and a k&n air
filter too. Any suggestions on weather
> its good or bad? I like to hear
as many suggestions as
> possible.
What mod are you looking at? There is a whole grocery list of things
that
could be considered "mas mods"...
> Don't wanna hurt my baby!
Then don't modify it. Seriously.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#231
***************************************