Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Friday, August 15
2003 Volume 02 : Number 230
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Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2003 15:22:46 -0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
alex@kolosy.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Crankshaft pulley
Get an impact. Then you don't need the tools. The whole point of
the
tool you need is to keep you from turning the crankshaft. An
impact
won't and will get it off...
Even an electric one might work...
Alex.
'95 VR4
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2003 16:26:46 -0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
alex@kolosy.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Crankshaft pulley
I took mine out with a crappy 1/2" air impact I got for like
50
bucks....
Took a good couple of minutes sitting there with it hammering away,
but
it worked...
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2003 18:05:36 -0400
From: "Christopher Gerard" <
c.w.gerard@worldnet.att.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: supercharger or turbo
Just my 2 cents--if you upgrade the DOHC n/a with turbos or
superchargers,
you have more power but are still left with the inferior
handling
capabilities of the n/a FWD. So you will be killer in a straight
line, and
then when the curves come upon you....the fun ends. I know I am
dissatisfied
with the handling of my ES. Maybe I'm asking for too much, but
I've been
told the TTs handling is superior. Also, you won't have as good an
exhaust
as on the TT. On the bright side, you won't have to mess with
the
'problematic' Gertrag...
Chris
91 ES, inching towards owning the TT.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2003 16:52:19 -0500
From: "Canney, Charles C" <
charles.c.canney@lmco.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Crankshaft pulley
Another (perhaps common sense) suggestion, make darn sure the timing
belt
cover was not damaged in the conflagration of power steering belt. My
local dealer
recently repaired a VR4 whose timing belt was taken out by it's
power
steering belt.
The owner is now suing Pepboys, who apparently installed the belt.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2003 15:30:09 -0700
From: "MM2 Phillips, J" <
phillipsj@duluth.navy.mil>
Subject:
Team3S: engine / turbo failure
hello all, i just had the engine on my car re-built by a shop here in
san
Diego. After 3 weeks the car was returned to me and i drove it for
about 4
days until i saw oil pressure drop to 0 one night while driving
it. I had
the car towed home and then up to the engine shop the next
day. the engine
shop says the bearing in the rear turbo burned up and
wiped. they say that
this is what caused the indication of 0 psi on the oil
gage. they also say
the engine is making a knocking noise again and
that the engine has to be
re-built again. they had given my a 1 year /
12,000 mile warranty on the
engine but are telling me that they will not
cover the rebuild because the
turbo was the cause of no oil getting to the
engine. my question is: do i
have grounds to take them to court and will a
wiped bearing in the rear
turbo cause no oil to go to the engine?
i don't
really have confidence in this shop ( now at least ) and i wonder if
they are
blowing smoke up my A$$. should they cover the re-build? is a wiped
bearing
in the turbo a good reason behind loss of oil pressure to the engine
and the
( now occurring ) engine knock? could they have not put something
back
together right? what are your thoughts?
- -ryan-
91 VR-4
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2003 18:39:03 -0400
From: "Bob G" <
Rguirlinger@cfl.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Turbo Failure - How do you know when it has happened?
The subject line says it all.
Is it normally a drop in oil pressure accompanied by a lot of smoke from
the
tail pipe (not mine!), or can it fail in other ways?
Just curious.
Bob Guirlinger
92 VR-4
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2003 15:55:08 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
engine / turbo failure
The oil to the turbo goes directly back to the oil pan and is then
redistributed
to the engine through the oil filter and pump. There is no way
it can cause
oil starvation in the rest of the engine. I would guess the
reverse to be true, a
spun bearing caused the turbo failure since the oil to
the turbos is fed through
the main oil galleys that go to the
bearings.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2003 16:10:14 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: turbo vs. supercharger?
The best bang for the buck is to buy a 1st gen Stealth TT. It has
fewer
features than the 3kGT, so it sells cheaper (and it's marginally faster
-
lighter weight). You can find them with low mileage for $6k to $7k,
which is
less than you'll spend on *either* a TC or SC upgrade. AND
you'll have AWD
(and with the '94, AWS) and the bigger brakes neccessary to
stop that much
power. We've seen the references to deals going on on
other websites from new
people who haven't researched this enough. Been
there, done that. Use our
Team3S Search Page and enter *supercharger*
for chapter and verse, but here's
a synopsis:
Thomas Knight Turbochargers make the most reliable SCs there are.
Call them
and Thomas "Geoff" Knight himself will give you the real skinny on
what is
required and what it's really going to cost. He'll also let you
know that the
biggest SC you can add that's street legal is 5.6psi. I
looked at the new
RIPP website-- I believe that they are dedicated to
quality, but they are
leaving a LOT out as to what it's going to cost
you. And there are errors
galore on the RIPP site, like calling a
Stealth R/T an SOHC (it's a DOHC).
There's also a lot of "more info coming
soon" nonsense. Caveat emptor.
First of all, yes it's true that a TC will give more power, but you'll need
to
deal with heat issues, and SCs have always-on power with no spool-up
delays.
Whichever system you choose, you *will* need engine work with a
DOHC. Knight
recommends no more than 9:1 compression ratio if you want
to add his SCs - you
have 10:1. Not even close. Why do you think
the turbos 3S's have an 8:1 CR?
The SOHCs (all Stealth base and 3kGT base
97-99) do not need engine mods, with
their 8.9:1 CR. You do. So
add 1 grand to the cost. And if you want to be
safe, add 2 grand for
bigger brakes. That's $7k - the cost of a used TT. If
you buy a
TT, then you can sell your NT and end up paying almost nothing.
That's
economical.
Here's the note we published on the Team3S list a *long* time ago from
Geoff
Knight, to give you an idea of what you *might* be getting into:
"I am sending you info and pics. I have kits for ALL the Stealth and
3000GT
cars--5-speed, auto trans, SOHC and DOHC. I make Vortech, Paxton,
and
Powerdyne kits.
I offer several supercharger kits for the SOHC,
DOHC, and 5-speed trans
non-turbo Stealth and 3000GT starting at $3995. The
auto trans kits start at
$4495.
The base kits include the well known
Paxton SN supercharger, CNC billet
mounts and pulleys, super heavy duty shaft
assembly, steel inlet and discharge
pipes, black rubber nitrile hoses, boost
and air/fuel gauges with two-gauge
pod, FMU rising-rate fuel controller,
idler pulleys and belts, oil filter
adapter and relocation kit, by-pass
valve, radiator overflow tank, and fully
illustrated installation
instructions.
Available ugrades include a Powerdyne high performance
supercharger--$550
(Vortech or Powerdyne are standard on auto trans cars), a
sequential
BOV--$250, aluminum pipes--$250, silicone hoses--$300 (either
orange or blue),
T-bolt clamps--$10 each, and manual adjustable boost
controller--$125
If you have access to either a Powerdyne, Vortech or
Paxton SC unit, I sell
the mount and drive kit for $1995. This includes the
pipes, but no hoses or
any accessories."
Whatever you do, please do your homework first, so you don't get caught in
a
mods spiral. Many other owners have tried upgrading NT models to
turbos (or
SC's) with poor success, and against the best advice of the
members of this
list. If you're a tinkerer and you love the challenge,
go for it-- open your
glove box and start throwing 100's into it. When
you've emptied your account,
you'll be halfway there... ;-)
Good luck!
Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2003 22:03:02 -0400
From: "Dennis R. Ninneman" <
dninneman@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Painting my engine bay???
Excellent question!
No reason not to. BUT, is the clear coat compatable? Has the
color
coat been adequately prep'ed. Yes-yes? Clear coats are the
savoir of
car nuts. Wax every weekend - less chance burning through
and ruining
the color coat. Always clear coat. Although must be
properly preped so
as not to lift ............... long term.
Dennis -==- Philly
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2003 22:35:54 -0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: engine / turbo failure
Well, here's a little consolation for ya...
This literally just happened...
I was driving home from work on Tuesday, getting into the boost
a
little, but I always do. The Talon's been running 17 psi for
months
with no problems... All of a sudden, huge loss of power, and a
giant
smokescreen from the exhaust... I freaked! Got her off the side
of the
road... called the tow truck and started disassembling the IC piping
and
intake stuff... Turns out the smoke was coming from oil leaking in
the
intake, and probably the exhaust side too... Well...
Upon closer inspection, the shaft is entirely MIA... I couldn't get
a
clear picture of it, but the o2 housing is destroyed inside, as is
the
o2 sensor... Best I can tell, the oil seal never failed, instead the
nut
came off the compressor immediately making the car lose power,
the
turbine and shaft worked their way out until the turbine contacted
the
housing at some ungodly rpm. Once the turbine hit the housing, it
tore
it up as seen in the first picture, snapped the shaft, and something
hit
the o2 sensor... The shaft is MIA, prolly on I-35 somewhere, as I
figure
it exited the exhaust at some point in time..
My point, after all is said and done... I never lost enough oil
pressure
to cause a bearing failure... In fact, I lost about 10 psi oil
pressure
across the board as soon as it happened... Had I kept her
running for
very long, it coulda gotten ugly, but after 15 seconds of smoke
screen,
I decided to turn her off...
- -Cody
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 00:39:14 EDT
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: turbo vs. supercharger?/window seal
There are advantages to an N/A car being turbocharged.
Its lighter then a turbo-and mass is always the enemy of good and balanced
handling.
The fact that you will need new brakes, top end, turbos, intercoolers means
just that, brand new. Try to find a turbo that is in decent shape for
the 7
grand you will put in the N/A. Ive tried to find turbos with low
milage minus
the high cost. Its tough.
Now if there was no such thing as a VR-4, and the N/A ruled the land, then
there would be alot more performance items for the non-turbo. But it doesnt
work
like that. So to be honest i agree with what everyone else is sayin.
For the
money, time and effort you put in your N/A, it just wont be worth
it. YOu will
still have FWD. . .and an engine that is experimental.
Can you graft the AWD
transaxel to the N/A? What about the non-turbo tranny.
Will it hold up? Lotta
unanswered questions. . .
Quick side question. - The rubber seal on the inside passeneger window is
peeled away so i need to replace that strip. How do you take that rubber
strip
off after you have taken off the door panel?
Mike
97 SL
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2003 12:47:18 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Crankshaft pulley
Hi Roger,
The "special tool" is not that expensive, and you can possibly make it
yourself. It is simply a long bar with two bolts sticking out of one end
such that you can stick the bolts in the two holes in the pulley and brace the
bar against something sturdy (frame, suspension component, etc.) You can
get one from Miller Tools (P/N: MLR-6958) at
http://www.spxmiller.com IIRC, I paid
about $30 for it.
Another option (especially if your pully broke such that the holes are
unusable) is to use an impact wrench to zip it off. 22mm socket
required.
A third option is to put a 1/2" drive wrench or breaker bar with a 22mm
6-pt socket on it on the crankshaft pulley bolt, brace the wrench against the
front crossmember (the engine spins clockwise), and flick the starter on
briefly. The starter can put out more than enough torque to remove the
bolt. You'll still need a special tool or an impact wrench to reinstall
the bolt with the new pulley though.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 01:42:18 -0500
From: "William J. Crabtree" <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Crankshaft pulley
Special Tool? BUNK! Impact wrench? MIGHT work, but your
MOST likely
solution to getting that bad boy out is a bunch of LONG
socket
extensions....like long enough to get you outside of the wheel well
and a
1/2 inch breaker bar (maybe even with a cheater pipe on it)
I've taken mine out several times now....this is the easiest way to do
it.
Now make sure the car is in gear and at least two (preferably all
four)
wheels are on the ground, that should give you all the resistance you
need
to break it loose. Once you have this bolt out, you should be able
to pull
the pulley by hand, if not use a puller (how many "pull"s can I work
into a
sentance?), ANYWAY.....a bunch of socket extensions and a breaker bar
from
craftsman are most likely cheaper and DEFINATELY more useful (for this
and
other things) than that special tool that mitsu calls for.
Happy pulley pulling!
- -Jeff Crabtree
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 01:44:59 -0500
From: "William J. Crabtree" <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Crankshaft pulley
Oh yeah, I forget one thing...
REGULAR THREADS!!! Don't try it backwards thinking it's reverse
thread, no
matter how tempted you might be.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 08:28:06 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: engine / turbo failure
Smoke? They're trying to blow all sorts of fumes up your A$$. A
clogged turbo oil feed line, or blown turbo bearing will NOT cause 0 oil
pressure. They need to come up with something better than that. Now,
whether or not they are liable depends on what all they rebuilt, and decisions
that you might have made along the line. For example, if they said to you,
"You know, we really should put a new oil pump in" and you said "No, I don't
think that's necessary" and then the pump goes and trashes your engine, that's
your fault, not theirs. But if they made all the calls and you simply
wrote them a check, then you got a case in my mind. And I've been trying
cases for 10 years.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 09:34:15 -0400
From: "Bedrock" <
r.bedrick@comcast.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Red Line Oil's answer
The Red Line products are compatible with rubber hoses and seals. The
ShockProof gear oils are unique products, having a semi-solid
component in suspension.
Is that what plugged the vent? It should easily
clean out with solvent.
Due to the unique characteristics of the ShockProof
it isn't designed
or recommended for street use. I would recommend the MT-90
in your
transfer case.
Regards, Dave
Red Line Oil
Bob
White/Red 91 RT/TT, Original at 140,000+
------------------------------
I wrote the other day about my engine dieing. It looks like a
leaking
capacitor in the ECU. Does any one know of a good place to have it
repaired?
Thank-You
Pete, 91 VR4 (a little sick)
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 11:51:50 -0700 (PDT)
From:
davis2005@canada.comSubject: Team3S:
boost controller
Hi All. I was wondering if any body could tell me what
boost controllers
do excatley and if it would hurt my
car and engine in any way. Thanks Jeff
Davis
94 stealth rt tt
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 12:40:29 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
engine dies
Most any electronic repair shop should be able to repair the
caps.
Search the archives or 3SI.org for additional info --- parts are
$5
or so, labor should be $20 to $40 at an electronics shop.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#230
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