Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Saturday, August 9
2003 Volume 02 : Number 224
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2003 01:49:19 -0700
From: "Erik Petterson" <
erik@microworks.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Questions about cleaning '94 Stealth headlamp glass
Well here's the write-up that I'm gonna follow when I get around to
doing
mine.
http://moojohn.com/stealth/headlight/This
guy does his in the oven @ 225F for 5 min. I've heard of others
doing
170F for 15 min.
If you search on
http://www.3SI.org for
"headlight oven" you should find
many threads of people who have successfully
done this themselves for like
$5 - $50 ... sure beats $500 for a new
one. I like the idea of putting in a
couple cilica packets to
"de-moisturize" the newly cleaned enclosure. Some
people talk about
blocking the hole towards the back where the moisture was
supposed to escape,
but may actually have gotten in through that opening.
Erik
'94 R/T
(still foggy)
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2003 06:57:15 -0600
From: Chip Greenberg <
chipg@pvtnetworks.net>
Subject:
Team3S: NGK wire advice please/how about plugs?
Jeff: thanks for the great article. I was going to have my wires
replaced at the dealer at my 120k service and am going to reconsider
using stock wires
Is there anything I'm taking for granted about plugs? Are dealer
supplied plugs as good as any other option?
Chip
92 Stealth RT/tt
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 08 Aug 2003 13:47:40 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: NGK wire advice please/how about plugs?
Well, Tall Mitsu will sell you a set of ignition wires for your '92 for
about $59. What does your dealer want for them?
MSD 8.5mm Super Conductor wires custom fitted for our cars are ~$92 at
Summit Racing. No, I don't know how well they fit or what they look like. If
someone has them, please let us know what the plug boots look like and how well
they and the wires fit.
The dealer will most likely sell you NGK PFRJ6-11 or Denso PK20PR-P11
platinum tipped plugs. These are what Mitsu calls for. Here are some online
prices for NGK PFRJ6-11 (for one plug). What does the dealer want for one or the
set?
Hmmmm, $13 buys a whole set of NGK BCPR6ES-11 "copper" plugs. :)
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 08 Aug 2003 13:52:35 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: So how do I adjust the CAS?
As long as the CAS ('91-'92) is registered correctly to the cams,
positioning it in the middle of the bracket will work fine (I have seen mine set
from -5º to +60º advance and the engine ran).
Start the engine and use a timing light to set basic timing advance to
around 0.
Set basic idle speed as the service manual instructs.
Re-set basic timing advance (just disconnect the ground at the diagnostic
connector - don't forget the datalogger cable also grounds the right pin for
basic idle speed adjustment).
Re-set basic idle speed if needed.
If you are running larger than stock injectors, I might suggest between 0
and 5 degrees advance to compensate a little for the mild increase in timing
caused by the airflow signal conditioner. The bottom line is set the advance as
high as you can *without* causing knock (detonation) to occur at any boost
levels you run under any engine operating conditions (cold morning to hot
afternoons). With your '91-'93 model, dataloggers will report knock.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2003 09:48:18 -400
From:
ukyo@speedfactory.netSubject:
Re: Team3S: OT: Grassroots Motorsports Mag Article compares
3000GT...
Yea, Grassroots Motorsports contacted us through a 300ZX tuner shop here in
Atlanta. They asked us to bring all three of our cars (the third being our
'97 Eclipse GSX) but later decided to not include the DSM as it "didn't fit
in".
The testing day is something I'll not forget soon. We were up all
night putting a clutch (Southbend TZ series with kevlar face) in the VR-4.
I think I slept for about 15 minutes after being up for over 24 hours before we
set out. I had to use the drive up to and around Lauren, SC as the break
in miles. I was able to break it in OK, and then it was off to the
testing.
Over all the test driver (also the guy who wrote the article) was impressed
with my car. He said all he ever hears is negative things about them, but
it was really fun. He pushed it pretty hard on the auto-x, and the all
season Sumitomos on there sang very loudly, but never let go. :) I
was surprised at how well it stuck. I've run it on Little Talledega with
the same tires, and it held well, but the auto-x was tighter than Little
Talledega is.
I was a little let down by the 0 - 60 time he got out of it. 5.2 is
OK, but I know it can do better. He also printed the wrong 0 - 60 on the
Supra. It also pulled a 5.2 after some fuel tweaking. It's a little
dissapointing that he printed the slower time.
It was surprising to see the heavy VR-4 pull a 43.1 on the auto-x and be
quicker than a MR2, the Supra, and a RX-7 with a race prepped suspension.
There are zero modifications done to my suspension. I was running Race
Concepts slotted / dimpled drilled rotors in the front, stockers in the back,
and Hawk HP pads all the way around with Valvoline "ABS blend" synthetic
fluid.
Over all the car did great, IMO. It could have been better had the
owners got to run the 0 - 60 portions, but they had to keep it as fair as
possible.
And Sonya's Supra keeps up nicely. It's lit me up hard right at the
traps before. Not a pretty sight when you knock off 3 or so car lengths
from the tree and are pretty sure you are way out in front...
The article was a blast to be a part of. Glad you guys enjoyed
it. My only question is where did they get that horrid stock time for our
cars? 14.5 @ 97 MPH??? 0 - 60 in 6.0 seconds???
- -- Travis
'94 3000GT VR-4 (DR500 powered)
'97 Eclipse GSX (T28
powered)
'97 Supra TT (<- Sonya's car, BPU +)
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2003 09:01:22 -0600
From: Chip Greenberg <
chipg@pvtnetworks.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: NGK wire advice please/how about plugs?
Jeff, I'll check into what the dealer is asking, good info!
Chip
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2003 17:09:51 +0100
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Questions about cleaning '94 Stealth headlamp glass
I did it a few years ago with a hairdryer. Took a while to get things
hot
enough, but it was pretty easy going. I used Mopar glass cleaner,
the stuff
that works so well on the film that builds up on the inside of your
windows.
They look great!
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2003 09:59:56 -0700
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Questions about cleaning '94 Stealth headlamp glass
I just did this on my '94 VR4 a few weeks ago. I really recommend
putting the entire assembly in the oven on low (200ish) for about 10 minutes
before trying to open it up. Once the sealant is warmed up, it's quite
easy to pry apart with a flat blade screwdriver.
For cleaning the inside of the glass, I recommend very fine steel
wool. I had baked on grunge on the inside of the glass that cleaner and a
paper towel just wouldn't get off. Glass cleaner with fine steel wool
works miracles. Once I got the inside totally clean, I applied a layer of
Fog-X (from the same people that make Rain-X), in the hopes that it would keep
it from fogging up. I don't know if it helped, but I figured it was worth
a try.
If you've never had the headlamps out before, I'd plan on 2-3 hours for the
whole project. It's really not very hard.
- - Brian
------------------------------
Could someone look up the part number for the oil pressure sender
(guage
not idiot light) for a 92 SL?
Thanks
Jim W
92 3000GT SL
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2003 12:02:19 -400
From:
ukyo@speedfactory.netSubject:
Re: Re: Team3S: Questions about cleaning \'94 Stealth headlamp glass
"That guy" is me. :)
The method I used works, and it works well. I got the idea to use the
oven from Jack T., actually. So the idea is his, but the FAQ is
mine. Good to see it's still out and helping people.
There's nothing to it, so even if they fog back up (mine haven't since I
wrote the FAQ), it's no problem to fix them.
Just doing my part to help the collective '94 3/S cars looking as good as
the day they rolled off the line. :)
- -- Travis
'94 3000GT VR-4
'97 Eclipse GSX
'97 Supra TT
------------------------------
Hi Everyone,
How are you? I just took my car to the dealer to try and work some
kinks out
of my car's performance. They said the the spark plugs I had
in there were
Champion spark plugs and NOT platinum. Would this cause
major hesitation in
the car's acceleration? Would the ECU adjust for
this - or might it burn it up?
Thank you,
Michael
------------------------------
You need to give us more information about your car - NA or turbo? year?
mileage? have you done the 60K/120K maintenance with timing belt change?
Fouled plugs can cause the symptom you describe, but more info will help us
suggest other possibilities.
Chuck Willis
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2003 13:55:56 -0600
From: "Curtis McConnell" <
Curtis.McConnell@Pulte.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Value of stock Spyder wheels
I have the stock Spyder wheels without tires. One is bent but tires
are
still mountable. Other than that they are in good condition. There
would
be tires on the wheels but they aren't in good shape. What are
they
worth?
Curtis McConnell
1995 VR-4 Spyder
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 08 Aug 2003 14:57:09 -0500
From: "Canney, Charles C" <
charles.c.canney@lmco.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Question on pre-oiling fresh rebuild
Does anybody know if the ECU does not inject fuel and not apply spark,
if
the CAS is disconnected?
I plan to crank the engine tomorrow after 8 months and many dollars
of
repair effort. I put assembly lube on all the moving parts but was
thinking
all those oil lines and passageways are empty. I did pour oil across
the
valve train before torqing the covers in place, but that was last
weekend.
Since I can't drop my small block Chevy pre-oiler in place of
the
distributor, I was thinking of disconnecting the crank angle sensor
plug,
and spinning the motor with the starter, perhaps 10 seconds at a time
with
cool down pauses, but for a total of a minute or so, just to push some
oil
into the turbos and around the motor.
Any risks (other than starter wear) I should be aware of?
Thanks,
Charles Canney
91 TT
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2003 13:57:41 -0600 (MDT)
From: Jim Floyd <
jim_floyd7@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Question on pre-oiling fresh rebuild
Talk to Matt Monet at Dynamic Racing 505-439-1125 he has a technique for
this.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2003 13:59:43 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Question on pre-oiling fresh rebuild
You can make a pre-oiler --- get one of those plastic pesticide
sprayers
and an adapter to go into the oiling system -- sending unit hole for
example.
Put some oil in the container pressurize it and pump it into the
engine. I'd
pre-oil a couple of quarts then turn it over with the starter and
put in a few
more. You can even leave the oil pan plug off and run multiple
quarts
through the system.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2003 16:48:49 -0500
From: "Wieschhaus, Brandon Kenneth
(UMR-Student)" <
bwish@umr.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Questions about cleaning '94 Stealth headlamp glass
Agreed! Slap them in an oven at 200ish for 5-10min, carefully pry the glass
out, and clean the hell out of it w/ windex and something abrasive (scouring pad
or steel wool). Elapsed time for me was only about 1.5 hrs, for both, after
everything was completely reinstalled. Another good idea would be to go and get
yourself some RTV silicone sealant from Wal-Mart or wherever you prefer, to seal
it back up again. Don't trust the old stuff that's on there, you'll have to take
them off and seal them up again later (trust me). Good
luck.
-b
- -----Original Message-----
From: Geddes, Brian J
[mailto:brian.j.geddes@intel.com]
Subject: RE: Team3S: Questions about
cleaning '94 Stealth headlamp glass
I really recommend putting the entire assembly in the oven on low (200ish)
for about 10 minutes before trying to open it up. Once the sealant is
warmed up, it's quite easy to pry apart with a flat blade screwdriver.
For cleaning the inside of the glass, I recommend very fine steel
wool.
- - Brian
------------------------------
Thanks Jeff and Charles for the advice.
By the way, I found NGK plugs (PFRJ6-11) for $9.99 at Advance Auto parts
web
site.
Chris
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 08 Aug 2003 19:00:36 -0500
From: "Canney, Charles C" <
charles.c.canney@lmco.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Question on pre-oiling fresh rebuild
Thanks to both Jim's for replies. I will attempt to find an adapter for
the
pump idea.
Matt was not in, but one of his helpful employees said to
pull the
ignition fuse to prevent starting while cranking. I will do that as
well.
and cross my fingers!
Charles Canney
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 08 Aug 2003 19:15:24 -0500
From: "Canney, Charles C" <
charles.c.canney@lmco.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: part number for oil pressure sender
Jim,
I looked up Z11A, Sports Line, 5sp, Fed model and the GAUGE UNIT,
ENG OIL
was MD133273 (the bigger of the two oil sensors in the exploded
view)
the other oil sensor (small unit right next to it) was listed as SWITCH,
ENG
OIL PRESS, MD138993
Charles Canney
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 19:17:07 -0600
From: "Donald Ashby" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Stupid bleepin tranny...
Ok, well I finally got that bolt that holds the input shaft in (had a 6mm
and a 8mm allen head, but
no 7) so I have that bolt out, and still the input
shaft and counter shaft will not come out. I
tried pulling on them and
lifting on them, and it appears that the shifter things are actually
holding
it in still, is there a way to get those off, or should I not have to get those
off?
Thanks guys you've been great helps so far
Donald Ashby
'93 3000GT
VR-4 (RIP)
'92 3000GT VR-4 (Vroom!)
"Don't drink and park, accidents cause
people!"
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2003 19:13:43 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Stupid bleepin tranny...
See the last sentence of my reply !!!!!! The end cover is pressed
onto the
shaft.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2003 19:26:00 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Car isn't running great
Do a search of the archives for help on the first one --- idle surging has
multiple
causes. It maybe as simple as battery voltage if your lights are
being affected.
Item two may be a control line to the turbo wastegates --- get an
aftermarket
boost gauge and find out what the boost really is. If the
controller is malfunctioning
or a line is off, the wastgates revert to about
6 pounds of boost.
Item three may just be the honk/owl hoot/goose noise produced by the
intake
at partial throttle. It's a resonance produced in the intake usually
after putting
in an aftermarket air filter. Mine did it for a couple of years
but finally went
away. Much info in the archives.
The second gear shift problem is probably a weak 2nd gear synchro. The
car
is notorious for having weak synchros. Much info in the archives
!!!
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 9 Aug 2003 08:01:21 +0100
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Questions about cleaning '94 Stealth headlamp glass
Be careful with your choice of sealant. The moisture from the stuff I
used
ended up refogging the lens and I had to repeat the entire
process!
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 9 Aug 2003 02:54:47 -0700
From: "Erik Petterson" <
erik@microworks.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Questions about cleaning '94 Stealth headlamp glass
Would you care to share with the rest of the group. What brand
sealant did
you use?
- -Erik
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#224
***************************************