Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Friday, August 8
2003 Volume 02 : Number 223
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Hey there I switched the email message to plain text...hope this
works...
Isaiah
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Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2003 01:15:55 -0700
From: "Isaiah" <
mritchey@xpressdata.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Instrument panel symbol meanings
Hi there, I have a94 dodge stealth DOCH
I am wondering what the symbol
on the right side of the instrument panel
means. It's beneath the words
SRS and to the right of the words AERO, the
one that has 5 little columns
it's yellow colored. It only comes on when
the car is level, and goes
off when I go up or down a hill. If you don't
get what I am
asking, could you give me a web page where I can find out what
every symbol
means...thanks.
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Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2003 04:46:53 -0400
From: Darren Schilberg <
dschilberg@spamcop.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Whats that rumbling in my rear?
I just had my right rear wheel bearings replaced - they cost about $15 each
(inner bearing and outer bearing). However, that was only half the
problem.
Like you, the sound only made noise on turns but not all left
turns or not all
right turns. This was because the bearings were only
slightly bad as they
still had grease in them but one part of them was
dented or broken or
something so only when that part was at the critical
point in a turn did it
make the wub-wub-wub noise of a wheel bearing.
I jacked up all corners and did the wheel bearing check and sure enough
only
the right rear had the wheel clunk-clunk when moved forward to back (if
I
moved the car around in a circle then I think the wheel would have made
the
clunk-clunk feeling in the up and down motion instead of front to back
though). The shop ended up replacing the right rear "axle spline" (key
words
there) which is the part outside of the halfshaft that goes clear to
the hub.
THIS part is $170 list ($135 discount) and was the bugger
that made the repair
bill closer to $300. But at least the actual
problem was diagnosed and fixed.
This really started making noise about an hour from home on the way to the
NG
which was about 700 miles from me. Ack. I put up with it and
took it easy
all the way there and back and had to give up driving the road
course as I
didn't want a wheel bearing to seize at 120 mph. The
bearing itself had been
making some noise before but I thought it was brake
pad-to-rotor sounds like
when the pads are wearing down or an e-brake shoe
was hanging up.
Hope it is the bearing though - much cheaper and easier to replace.
- --Flash!
1995-1/2 VR-4 with 119,600 miles
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I believe you are talking about the low coolant indicator light. You
need
to fill your coolant to the proper level and see if the light goes
away.
I have not seen a web page out there that explains every light on
the
dashboard. However, that information is clearly printed in your
owner's
manual that comes with the car and usually could be found in the
glove
compartment.
Philip
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There is a grabber thing that I use that you can get from a home
improvement store for like $5.00. It's for retrieving things from
plumbing.
Chuck Willis
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Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2003 15:55:49 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
OT: Grassroots Motorsports Mag Article compares 3000GT...
In the current issue of Grassroots Motorsports Magazine, there is an
article
called "Budget Supercars", which compares the values of Corvette,
RX-7, MR-2,
300ZX, 3000GT, Viper and Supra. I've scanned the entire
article, and it's on
our website, here:
www.Team3S.com/Mags/Grassroots0803.htm
The article showcases Team3S member Travis Bayne - one owner or more is
given
as an example for each of the cars. ...One of whom is Travis'
girlfriend, who
bought a Supra "just to keep up with him". ;-)
Naturally, the website lists
"the source" for Stealth and 3000GT information
as Team3S!
NASA Pro Racing now bundles their monthly newsletter in Grassroots
Motorsports
Mag. NASA members get the magazine as part of their
subscriptions. Not a bad
rag! There is also a DSM article in the
same issue (August), for those who
are interested... Cool stuff!
Best,
Forrest
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Hey all,
I need some advice about spark plug wires for a 1991 DOHC Stealth ES.
My
local shop says NGK wires run $188 (they wanted $28 ea. for the
plugs--I
told them I'd get them for $10 at advance auto parts online).
However, I
cannot find the NGK wires anywhere online. I also cannot find
Magnecor
wires, which I see several of you have used in our cars. Should I go
with
NGK or Magnecor, and where can I find them? What is the ballpark price
for
the Magnecors? Thanks a lot.
By the way, the tune-up is estimated at $460--is this reasonable?
This
includes plugs ($10 plugs), NGK wires, throttle cleaning, a total of
$174
for labor.
Chris
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I got my NGK wires from a local import store BAP-GEON in Houston
Texas. They were much less expensive than the Mangnecor's that we bought
previously as well as the dealer quote for stock.
Chuck Willis
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Date: Thu, 07 Aug 2003 19:44:44 -0500
From: Christian Longtin <
Chriscooll@videotron.ca>
Subject:
Team3S: Car isn't running great
Hey everyone
I used a very global subject line since I have a couple problems. I
bought
about 6 weeks ago a 92 3000gt vr-4
from New Jersey.
Problem 1 :
Recently, when I start the car, the rpm jumps to about 1000
rpm then drops
very quickly to (100 to 400 rpm)
and then climbs back to
either 500-600 or 800-900.
One time the engine actually died (dropped too
much before it had the chance
to go back up). Yesterday, after the rpm
stabilize itself at 600 rpm, I
press on the gas to make it climb to 2000,
after I let the gas go the rpm
drop right to 100 rpm and I even saw my fog
lights flash, just like the
engine was going to die, then it climb back to
600 rpm. What could be the
problem ?
Also as I'm letting go the clutch the
rpm drops sometimes to 400-500, Is
this normal ?
Problem 2 :
A couple weeks ago, I had my recalls done at
Mitsu
(transfer case and brake hose) and the mechanic told me
that the car
wasn't pulling like a 300hp car. He said that it could be that
one my turbos
isn't working. He mentioned either the turbine wheel or the
wastegate could
be the problem. I have also noticed that there is an oil
leak from the back
of the engine (Maybe a leaky turbo ???). The Mitsu
mechanic said it was
propably coming from the head cover valve gasket but
after washing under the
car there was some oil back a couple days later
(doesn't make any sense if it
was a gasket). Now, when the key is turn to ON
the psi goes to 0 then when I
start the car it goes back to -7. When I
accelerated, I've seen the psi jump
back and forth put I can't recall seeing
it over 7. I'm only 19 so I don't
know what a 300hp car is suppose to feel
like, but is there a way that I can
test the power of my car and my turbos ?
Problem 3 :
I also noticed when I'm in 2nd gear a vibrating
sound.
This occurs when I'm going at normal speed (village limits)
and
that I give a bit of gas at about 2800-2900 rpm. (That's when you can
really
hear it) And that same 2nd gear is the only one that doesn't go in
smoothly.
Why ?
What could be making that sound ?
My mechanic is on vacation right now, so since I don't know too much
about
my car yet, any kind of help on any problem would be appreciated.
Thanks
P.S. : I don't have the service manual yet. I should get it in about
15
days.
Chris
92 3000gt vr-4
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Date: Fri, 08 Aug 2003 00:32:34 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: NGK wire advice please
NGK wires are not your best choice for ignition performance. The best wires
are those that have the very lowest resistance yet still minimize EMI. NGK wires
are barely better than stock.
Here are the resistances for some available wire sets (measured by me or
from web sites).
40 ohms/ft Moroso universal Ultra 40
50 ohms/ft MSD universal or fitted
8.5mm Super Conductor
150 ohm/ft Accel fitted Thundersport
2600 ohm/ft NGK
fitted Resistor Spark Plug Wire Set
3000++ ohm/ft Mitsubishi fitted factory
wire set
4750++ ohm/ft Magnacor fitted KV85
???? Vitek fitted - their web
site does not mention so figure it is high
???? Taylor fitted Spiro-Pro -
claims 10x less than standard resistor wires so likely 500 or 1000 ohm/ft or
much more
Look at my web page below for ordering info for MSD custom fitted wires at
Summit and additional discussion concerning ignition wires. I strongly recommend
against using Magnacor wires.
Is $460 reasonable? Not to me.
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Date: Thu, 07 Aug 2003 20:38:10 -0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
philip@supercar-engineering.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: OT: Grassroots Motorsports Mag Article compares
3000GT...
Thank you, Forrest, for scanning this article.
The weird grassroots people used an automatic Corvette and an automatic
Supra for this contest. There was no 1/4 mile competition or an open track
there, just some random autocross course. Really weird contest - really
weird results.
If they had more room for more web links, they should have definitely added
the Jeff Lucius' site there too,
www.stealth316.com. You should have seen
the standing ovations Jeff was getting at this year's National Gathering.
:-)
Philip
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Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2003 21:21:16 -0700
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: Team3S: So
how do I adjust the CAS?
Hi all.
I have a '92 VR4 with the adjustable CAS. (Crank Angle Sensor). I am
just
finishing up with a 8 month long engine rebuild (total, replaced
heads,
rebuild shortblock, virtually every moving part replaced) and I am a
bit
confused on the CAS. I installed it, lined up the timing marks to the cam
on
the inside, like the book says, but what position do I put it at when I
bolt
it to the head?
There has got to be a generic (default) place to put it so I can start
the
car. After that, how do I adjust it? I assume a timing light should
be
involved? Anyone got instructions?
Tyson
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Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2003 00:42:09 -0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: So how do I adjust the CAS?
Place it as close to the "middle" as possible. Attach a timing
light,
and aim at the crank pulley. You will see a small mark with
every
revolution. This should be set in regards to the TDC mark.
Check the
manual, but on Talon's, it's 5 degrees BTDC, or the middle of the
two
marks. It should be pretty self explanatory once you see what you
are
looking at. Obviously, rotate the CAS with regard to the mark on
the
crank pulley until you get the desired timing. Ah, one more thing,
you
must ground a single wire, also outlined in the manual. Idle
speed
should be set at 750 rpm.
- -Cody
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Date: Fri, 08 Aug 2003 01:23:02 -0700
From: Billy Nickerson <
banickers@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Questions about cleaning '94 Stealth headlamp glass
I have suffered with this for some time and finally read about how to do
it
on this web site - has anyone other than the author of the instructions
ever
done it? I'm looking mainly for how long it takes and if there is
anything
special I should use to clean the inside with or will regular glass
cleaner
do alright. It's really only one side that it's happening to, and the
hard
water stains are beginning to reduce the effectiveness of the
headlight.
I am a complete novice at working on a car and - believe it or not - in
the
6 years I've owned it, this is the biggest project I've done.
Private replies are welcomed as I'm sure the list has heard all this
before
at some point in time. :)
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#223
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