Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Sunday, August 3
2003 Volume 02 : Number
219
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 1 Aug 2003 17:21:25 -0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Kikmy az offa lyne?
Real easy reason not use toluene, if
mixed in the wrong proportions you can
eat holes (caused by dry rot) in
various rubber components through out the
fuel system... Been
there don that on my old 93 Integra GS-R (had a an HKS
30/37 on it) not
fun and was damn expensive lesson learned.
Looking to boost octane try
water alkie injection or if feeling really
adventurous try
propane.
Just my .02
Russ F
CT
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
chfmn@webtv.net
[mailto:chfmn@webtv.net]
Sent: Friday, August 01, 2003 5:10 PM
To:
Team3S@team3s.comSubject: Team3S: Kikmy
az offa lyne?
I don't think so.Most the time, I even get near a
Corvette or BMW
orTrans Am etc, they seem to take it upon themselves to
relinquish any
idea whatsoever to fk w/me.Can be quite frustrating knowing
that the
other driver thinks he's god's gift to speed and to challenge him
only
to find that evidently he thinks that today may not be the time to go
up
against a 11yr old 6cyl Piece of crap.
By the way.Anyone out there
using Toulene?
Was thinking about raising my Oct# seeing how as I am adding
a
MBC.Already did Lucius free upgrade.Did notice an improvement around
2k
but want to go to at least 14# boost just to see.I have read many
posts
about KNOCK.I have read about cool plugs-hot plugs-ecus-ecms-on and
on
about KNOCK.(and sensors)
What I have not read about is our ability to
raise the octane# from the
gas we pump..
Does anyone out there do this?And
if not;Why not:?
92 RTTT Pearl White
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
-
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This
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the intended recipient or the intended recipient's designees is strictly
prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient or their designee, please
notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete all copies.
==============================================================================
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 16:35:42
-0400
From: "Jessica T" <
jessicat@uslink.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 1992 Stealth R/T Ignition Problems
Just a little
update-
Last night, I removed the ECU and upon observation found that the
circuit
board is scorched near the CPU chip. At least two of the caps
have leaked
out onto the board and that scorch mark doesn't look too
promising. So now
I'm trying to find a used ECU, but people are telling
me that mine is
difficult to find. I'm still looking though. So
far this is the only
physical problem we have seen so I hope this will fix
it. Thanks for all
the information and help!
Jessica
T
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 17:53:09
-0400
From: "Christopher Gerard" <
c.w.gerard@worldnet.att.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Junk?
I had a 1979 Z28 with the Borg Warner and I have to
say it handled much
better than my Stealth ES--I don't know if the Turbo's
handling is a
significant improvement over the non-turbo DOHC cars. Having
said that, I
love the Stealth and it certainly has better build quality,
interior,
styling, etc.
What the heck is wrong with liking both
cars?
Chris
91 Stealth ES
Wheat Beige
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 15:08:18
-0700
From: "Andy" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Junk?
There is nothing wrong with liking both cars. Rest assured
however, that the
difference between two wheel drive Stealths and All wheel
drive Stealths is
day and night.
Find someone with an AWD and test
drive it. You won't believe it.
Andy
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Christopher Gerard" <
c.w.gerard@worldnet.att.net>
To:
<
Team3S@team3s.com>
Sent:
Friday, August 01, 2003 2:53 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Junk?
> I
had a 1979 Z28 with the Borg Warner and I have to say it handled much
>
better than my Stealth ES--I don't know if the Turbo's handling is a
>
significant improvement over the non-turbo DOHC cars. Having said that,
I
> love the Stealth and it certainly has better build quality,
interior,
> styling, etc.
>
> What the heck is wrong with
liking both cars?
>
> Chris
> 91 Stealth ES
> Wheat
Beige
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2003 17:12:55
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Junk?
A
>
>What the heck is wrong with liking
both cars?
>
The implication was that his ancient Camaro was wonderful
and our cars suck.
Sheesh, I had a 1984 Olds 88 that I loved. It was trouble
free for 150,000
miles, but I'd never compare it to my 3000GT.
Unsophisticated and unpowerful cars lead restful lives (although I
did
corner the 88 on its door handles). Comparing a Camaro or an Olds 88 to
one
of our cars is like comparing an ax to a chainsaw. They both cut
down
trees, and the ax will last lots longer, but the chainsaw is fast and
loud,
and you gotta take care of it. The ax you can leave out in the rain.
Rich/slow old poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 15:32:29
-0700 (PDT)
From:
chfmn@webtv.net
(Walter Womack)
Subject: RE: Team3S: Kikmy az offa lyne?
-
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What if it is mixed
in the correct proportions?
Not wanting to feel
adventerous.Just want to know if there is another
way around the Dreaded
Knock,that I have read about in so many posts.If
you increase the boost on
our motors you increase the chance of knock.I
have read elaborate posts about
the electronics of our cars to detect
and/or prevent knock.The changing of
spark plug gaps and etc,etc,etc.Not
once have I seen a post about raising the
octane of the pump fuel to
defeat the dreaded knock.Am I wrong in assuming
that raising the octane
would NOT be a viable means of controlling
KNOCK?
92 RTTT Pearl White
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From:
"Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
To: "
'chfmn@webtv.net'" <
chfmn@webtv.net>,
Team3S@team3s.comSubject: RE: Team3S:
Kikmy az offa lyne?
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 17:21:25
-0400
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tested, results are inconclusive
Real easy reason not use toluene, if
mixed in the wrong proportions you can
eat holes (caused by dry rot) in
various rubber components through out the
fuel system... Been
there don that on my old 93 Integra GS-R (had a an HKS
30/37 on it) not
fun and was damn expensive lesson learned.
Looking to boost octane try
water alkie injection or if feeling really
adventurous try
propane.
Just my .02
Russ F
CT
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
chfmn@webtv.net
[mailto:chfmn@webtv.net]
Sent: Friday, August 01, 2003 5:10 PM
To:
Team3S@team3s.comSubject: Team3S: Kikmy
az offa lyne?
I don't think so.Most the time, I even get near a
Corvette or BMW
orTrans Am etc, they seem to take it upon themselves to
relinquish any
idea whatsoever to fk w/me.Can be quite frustrating knowing
that the
other driver thinks he's god's gift to speed and to challenge him
only
to find that evidently he thinks that today may not be the time to go
up
against a 11yr old 6cyl Piece of crap.
By the way.Anyone out there
using Toulene?
Was thinking about raising my Oct# seeing how as I am adding
a
MBC.Already did Lucius free upgrade.Did notice an improvement around
2k
but want to go to at least 14# boost just to see.I have read many
posts
about KNOCK.I have read about cool plugs-hot plugs-ecus-ecms-on and
on
about KNOCK.(and sensors)
What I have not read about is our ability to
raise the octane# from the
gas we pump..
Does anyone out there do this?And
if not;Why not:?
92 RTTT Pearl White
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
-
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
This
e-mail transmission may contain information that is proprietary, privileged
and/or confidential and is intended exclusively for the person(s) to whom it is
addressed. Any use, copying, retention or disclosure by any person other than
the intended recipient or the intended recipient's designees is strictly
prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient or their designee, please
notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete all copies.
==============================================================================
-
--WebTV-Mail-13216-1441--
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 19:02:00
-0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Toluene / Water / Alky / Propane
> Not once have I seen a
post about raising the octane of the pump fuel to
> defeat the dreaded
knock.Am I wrong in assuming that raising the octane
> would NOT be a
viable means of controlling KNOCK?
Yes, you absolutely can raise the
octane rating of pump gas by mixing in
additional toluene. The thing to
be careful of is that the petroleum
companies have already mixed toluene into
most premium fuels, and there's no
easy way to figure out how much is already
in there - so you are always
guessing at what octane you are at after you add
more.
Toluene works... 100 octane unleaded race fuel is essentially
93 octane
premium with a lot more toluene in it. Not exactly the safest
stuff to be
mixing up in your garage though, and if you spill it on your
paint you may
have a problem. Don't go insane with the regular fuel to
toluene ratio
though or it'll start eating seals and lines.
Water
injection - works somewhat, can run about 3-4 psi more boost pressure
without
significant knock. Helps power a little, not a lot. Probably
best
used for charge cooling just after the intercoolers.
Alcohol
injection - similar to water, but at least combustable and slightly
improves
the octane rating of the fuel when injected. Results seem to range
from
"works okay" to "makes a lot more power". Difficult to quantify
without
a dyno.
Propane injection - haven't seen any proof that it does anything
to increase
power output. Reduces knock, but I personally believe that
it just fills
the cylinder with more inert gas that can't burn since you
didn't add any
more oxygen to the mixture and reduces EGTs and prevents knock
as a
side-effect of that (but doesn't increase power output).
I think
the "best" system would run a staged fuel injection system with a
few extra
injectors just after the throttle body that would inject a proper
ratio of
toluene once you were over 14 psi of boost and keep the overall
fuel
proportion correct. An AEM EMS could handle that setup without a lot
of
problem. You'd have the toluene stored in a seperate tank from
your
normal fuel and could run lines and a pump that would be resistant to
the
effects of the toluene.
I'm sure people will disagree...
That happens 'round here once in a while.
;-)
- -Matt
'95 3000GT
Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 19:15:20
-0500
From: "Nick" <
altieris@tulsaconnect.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Kikmy az offa lyne?
First of all- there are several breeds of
Corvettes and BMW's....True- a
stock vette- early 90's model is not all that
impressive compared to an RT
TT- but compare your RT TT to a Z1 or an LT1 and
that's a whole different
story- and I will admit- the fit and finish on a
vette is not superb- but
the fit on an RT I feel is subpar for the money. If
you are racing your TT
against a BMW 325 or even 735 you are gonna kick his
rear- but let's get you
up next to an 850...totally different story- and I
dare you, I DARE YOU to
compare fit an finish on a BMW 8 series to a Dodge
Stealth or Mitsu
3000gt... The quality on the Bimmer is so much better is not
even close
But you are gonna pay for it.
Nick J. Altieri
altieris@tulsaconnect.com-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf Of
Walter Womack
Sent: Friday,
August 01, 2003 4:10 PM
To:
Team3S@team3s.comSubject: Team3S: Kikmy
az offa lyne?
I don't think so.Most the time, I even get near a Corvette
or BMW
orTrans Am etc, they seem to take it upon themselves to relinquish
any
idea whatsoever to fk w/me.Can be quite frustrating knowing that
the
other driver thinks he's god's gift to speed and to challenge him
only
to find that evidently he thinks that today may not be the time to go
up
against a 11yr old 6cyl Piece of crap.
By the way.Anyone out there
using Toulene?
Was thinking about raising my Oct# seeing how as I am adding
a
MBC.Already did Lucius free upgrade.Did notice an improvement around
2k
but want to go to at least 14# boost just to see.I have read many
posts
about KNOCK.I have read about cool plugs-hot plugs-ecus-ecms-on and
on
about KNOCK.(and sensors)
What I have not read about is our ability to
raise the octane# from the
gas we pump..
Does anyone out there do this?And
if not;Why not:?
92 RTTT Pearl White
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 17:24:16
-0700
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Toluene / Water / Alky / Propane
I've been having pretty
great results a setup similar to what Matt describes below. I run an
injection nozzle into the y-pipe, and control activation and fuel compensation
through the AEM EMS. I don't think injecting after the throttle body would
be a good idea, because I doubt the fuel would distribute equally to all
cylinders. By injecting into the y-pipe (or earlier if you have a FMIC!),
you can get a much more uniform distribution.
What do I mean by
great results? 21 PSI, knock-free, on 92 octane and ignition advance in
the low to mid 20s....on stock turbos.
However, I'm using methanol rather
than tolulene. Methanol has a very high octane rating (108, I think?) and
great latent heat of vaporization (almost as good as water). Plus its
cheap - I buy 5 gallon drums for about $2.50 a gallon.
- -
Brian
> I think the "best" system would run a staged fuel
injection
> system with a
> few extra injectors just after the
throttle body that would
> inject a proper
> ratio of toluene once
you were over 14 psi of boost and keep
> the overall
> fuel
proportion correct. An AEM EMS could handle that setup
> without a
lot
> of problem. You'd have the toluene stored in a seperate tank
> from your
> normal fuel and could run lines and a pump that would
be
> resistant to the
> effects of the toluene.
>
>
I'm sure people will disagree... That happens 'round here
> once in
a while.
> ;-)
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 20:42:28
-0700
From: "Michael, Sharon & Dashiell Rhoden" <
rhoden@joimail.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Re: Transmission Seal?
I want to make sure before I spend Saturday
morning under the car repairing
my transmission leak. has anyone
applied silicon seal to the outside of the
seam of the right hand cover of a
VR4 transmission?
You don't split the cover off the end, clean it, and
create a silicon
"gasket," then tighten down the cover.
Right?
The Satan, uh Mitsu, dealer implied that the right cover holds the
whole
transmission in (sorry, can't find my manual) - is that
true?
BTW, I plan to fill with Mobil 1 75W-90 fluid, any feedback on
that?
Anyway, it looks like I'll be up bright and early to beat the
Atlanta heat
and humidity tomorrow. With luck I'll have both
transmission and exhaust
fixed in time for the Solo racing event the weekend
after at Turner Field.
Thanks! Michael
92 VR4
- -----
Original Message -----
From: Michael, Sharon & Dashiell Rhoden
To:
fastmax
Sent: Tuesday, July 29, 2003 7:30 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Transmission and Exhaust
I appreciate your advice, Jim. The
savings are definitely worth trying to
find a good place to jack my car up
and crawling around under it for a few
hours. I might check to see if I
can find a transmission shop willing to
clean and seal, though, in order to
save myself the aches and pains I would
feel the Monday (and Tuesday and
Wednesday) after.
I think I could live with aluminized steel for a while
- I don't want to put
too much into an 11 year old car with 120,000 miles on
it, even if it is
remarkably well maintained and apparantly healthier than
other cars I've
owned with fewer years and miles on.
Thanks,
Michael
- ----- Original Message -----
From: fastmax
To: Michael,
Sharon & Dashiell Rhoden ; 'Team3S'
Sent: Tuesday, July 29, 2003 3:30
PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Transmission and Exhaust
For the
transmission tighten the bolts clean the case with brake cleaner
and apply a
generous coat of RTV to the seam. There is no pressure in
the trans so the
leak is not pressurized.
You might try to isolate the leak first ---
after cleaning with brake fluid
drive it for a bit and see if you can detect
the leak. A tranny shop can
remove the tranny and separate the case and
reseal it --- there are no
gaskets in the tranny just RTV. The cost would be
several hundred for
a tranny shop --- guessing at $400 or so to pull, repair
and replace.
I'm not sure where the cracks in the exhaust are --- if it's
just from the
cat back you can get a complete stainless aftermarket system,
sans
active exhaust, for $800 plus installation or go to a muffler shop
and
get it replaced with aluminized steel for $300 or
so.
Jim
Berry
================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Michael, Sharon & Dashiell Rhoden" <
rhoden@joimail.com>
> It
looks like my transmission is leaking at the seam with the cover on the
>
right end of the case. In addition, my exhaust has numerous cracks
from
> before the catalytic converter to the mufflers.
>
>
Mitsu won't fix the transmission leak, they will only offer to replace
it
at
> a cost of $3200. They will repair the exhaust, but want
$2000 for it!
>
> Does anyone have a recommendation for good
transmission and exhaust shops
> (or warnings about bad ones) in the
Atlanta area that might be able to
help
> at a more reasonable
cost?
>
> Any other creative approaches you would care to suggest -
opportunities I
> should take advantage of if I'm messing with these
systems anyway, or
> suggestions for ways to do the work
myself?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Michael
> 92
VR4
>
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 20:04:13
-0700
From: "Erin Morgan" <
erin614@comcast.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Service Manual for sale
Repair Manual for 3000GT (from
1992-1996)
2 books >> Electrical and Body &
Chassis
New Condition! $150
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 22:32:12
-0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Kikmy az offa lyne?
> but let's get you up next to an
850...totally different story-
> and I dare you, I DARE YOU to compare fit
an finish on
> a BMW 8 series to a Dodge Stealth or Mitsu
3000gt...
> The quality on the Bimmer is so much better is not even
close
Okay, this is just getting old now. I worked on BMW North
America's website
(made several of the Build Your Own vehicle programs) and
ran the hosting
for it (as well as the Germany site) for several years so I
know a bit about
BMW's lineup and drove many of the cars.
The
top-of-the-line BMW 850csi weighed 4240 pounds, put down 372 horsepower
peak
and 402 ft/lbs of torque. Being RWD and having that rather heavy
weight
it would run mid 14's in the 1/4 mile around 100 MPH.
Sound familiar at
all? Almost the same 1/4 mile results as a stock twin
turbo 3S
car.
Not at all a totally different story performance-wise.
But
yes, the quality and fit/finish on a BMW is superb in all respects - and
yes
you certainly do pay for the privilege.
A few modern cars that are actual
threats on the street from a stop:
Corvette Z06
Dodge Viper
Ferrari
360 Modena (or Spider for that matter)
Lamborghini Diablo VT
Mitsubishi
Lancer Evolution
Subaru WRX STI
Toyota Supra (close race, stock for
stock)
BMW M3 CSL
Dodge Neon SRT-4 (Don't laugh, stock they are a good
match for a stock 3/S
TT)
Ford Mustang SVT Cobra
Ford SVT
Lightning
Most Porsche 911 Turbos
...of course a modded 3S TT car with
turbo upgrades and the associated fuel
system upgrades will eat most of those
as well. Many times it'll come down
to driver skill. An unskilled
driver can certainly make a turbo 3S car
perform poorly if a good launch
isn't made.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 21:45:12
-0700
From: "Admin-Team3S" <
bforrest@pacbell.net>
Subject:
Team3S: OT: Admin notice: Urgent warning about infected
email...
Since I use this email address for Team3S business (which has an
alias with
the word "Admin" in it), this warning, (originally from SBC
Internet), may
affect a good number of our members who may go through their
email quickly.
They may not notice the difference between a dangerous email
and one from me.
I just want to make sure that no one is deceived.
-
----------------------
URGENT V-I-R-U-S ALERT FROM SBC INTERNET SERVICES: DO
NOT OPEN EMAIL FROM
"ADMIN@"
You may have received an email that
appears to come from
"
admin@sbcglobal.net", "
admin@pacbell.net", "
admin@swbell.net",
"
admin@ameritech.net", or similar address.
This email is forged and contains a
v-i-r-u-s inside a file usually named
"message.zip" or contains a subject line
that includes the words "your
account". YOU SHOULD DELETE THIS EMAIL
IMMEDIATELY AND NOT OPEN THE
ATTACHMENT.
- ----------------------
If a similar email arrives from
Admin@xxxxxxx (
Admin@anything!), or even
Admin@Team3S.com, BEWARE. I don't use
that alias, but such forgery programs
take *any* domain (xyz.com) and
add "Admin@" in front of it. Please be aware
of the difference, and
don't open any email that comes from
Admin@anything.comMessages from
Admin-Team3S are still OK..., (if you want to read them).
;-)
Best,
Forrest
for the Admins
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2003 01:11:03
EDT
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Junk?
- -Nick
I to own a DOHC NT. While I do believe that
most of your problems are to your
specific car (at 64K mine runs and looks
like new), keep in mind that, as far
as we N/A people go, the car only looks
exotic.
Every Mitsu has used the 6G72 engine, in some form or another, in
every 6
cylinder application they have built for the past 15 years. The GT
is actually
the only car to this day in the Mitsu lineup to use DOHC heads.
Your tranny is
also taken from the parts bin, Auto or manual. The
chassis is from the
eclipse, which is from the galant sedan, and the list
goes on.
My point is that most mechanics look at a 3/S with dollar signs
in there
eyes, be it a turbo or not, because they believe they can take
advantage of you.
But as far as our N/As go, they are really very sexy
galants. And its pretty
hard to break one of em.
Mike
97
SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2003 11:30:07
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Kikmy az offa lyne? (Admin message)
Guys, can we declare this
OT ... and please use a topic everbody understands
!!
Thanks
Roger
G.
for the Admins
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2003 04:53:02
-0500
From: "Vineet Singh \(3S\)" <
stealthtt@ecanfix.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Bearing failed, not oil pump
Two points... your car was not
30k when it was new to YOU, it was used. You
almost never know what you are
going to get buying used. I've found the used
DSM's and 3/S's to be reliable
as long as proper service and maintenance was
done (unless it was a lemon to
begin with). Sorry that you have had problems
with your specific car, a lot
of the people on this list and off, will not
agree with
you.
Doubleclutch up and downshifts for everyday driving (and normal
shifting
during occasional racing), and you can see upwards of 200k on
stock
tranny's. Use often changed full synthetic oil as required by the new
EVO's
(mobil1) mitsu sells & OEM oil filters, and your engine might
actually last
a while. Oh, and of course, changing the timing belt at 60k
intervals, with
ALL NEW ancillary parts which most non-enthusiasts seem to
forget about...
help create a bad-rap about the DSM/3S cars. Turbo's are more
complicated,
they need more maintenance, you can't have your cake and eat it
too.
Oil pressure/related issues?
Regarding the oil issues older
3S cars sometimes see... I just had an idea,
could it have anything to do
with the smaller size filter that is on 3/S's
as compared to a 1g, 6bolt
DSM's? Maybe the short body doesn't allow enough
filtration surface area to
let it fully flow. This, compounded with the use
of non OEM filters that
might not be designed to exact mitsu specs, maybe
could lead to low oil
pressure and pump wear down the road? Just a guess...
I'm almost certain
we can physically install the bigger 89-92.4 DSM filter
on the car, maybe
someone with more technical knowledge can add their 2c?
Vinny Singh
-
http://www.manualcd.com/ - Service
Manuals on CD for your DSM or 3/S!
http://kaizen.eaglecars.com/>
> -----Original Message-----
> > Of
altieris@tulsaconnect.com>
> Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2003 2:52 PM
> > To:
Team3S@team3s.com> > Subject: Re:
Team3S: Bearing failed, not oil pump
> >
> > This is a little
off topic but...
> >
> > I will say this, I have owned many
used sports cars, most
> > of them driven hard before I owned
them..many of them
> > abused. And I have had more problems with my
Dodge stealth
> > with under 90K on it then all of them put
together.
> >
> > My personal opinion is that these cars are
junk. Poorly
> > manufactured with lousy mechanicals.
>
>
> > My car is a '92 R/T with only 86K miles on it. I has
had
> > an engine and transmission replaced..and those are just
>
> the major items. The mechanic told me "no this does not
> > show
signs of abuse, these cars just don't last".
> >
> > My car
was over $30K when it was new.
> >
> > This is rediculous. I
will never, never, ever buy another
> > mitusbishi built vehicle in my
entire life.
> >
> > Nick
> >
> > On Thu, 31
Jul 2003 12:45:22 -0500
> > "William J. Crabtree" <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
wrote:
> > >Update:
> > >
> > >Thanks for
everyone's thoughts on my car late last week
> > >when I
thought
> > >(read: HOPED) that I had a failing or failed oil
pump.
> > > Wanted to let
> > >everyone know that I
finally got around to draining the
> > >oil. It seems
the
> > >reason that I was getting a low oil pressure light
is
> > >because of the fine
> > >metal "silt" that was
clogging my oil filter. after
> > >draining the oil, I
>
> >stuck a telescoping magnet into the drain hole. It came
>
> >out with a mostly
> > >intact (albeit, bent all to hell)
thrust bearing. DAMN!
> > >
> > >I'm already
halfway to pulling the motor out of the car
> > >(AGAIN!!!).
I
> > >figured pulling it is probably just as easy as working
on
> > >replacing the
> > >crank and or bearings upside
down on a garage floor.
> > > Besides, getting that
> >
>damn getrag into place with the motor in the car is not
> >
>fun, I'd rather pull
> > >them and drop them back in as a
unit.
> > >
> > >This is the THIRD time since I've owned
the car that a
> > >bearing has failed.
> > >First time,
it started ticking and turned into a knock.
> > > The crank
and
> > >bearings were replaced under an extended warranty that
I
> > >had at that time.
> > >The SECOND time, I had a
wreck that drained the motor of
> > >oil while the car
> >
>sat idling, I had the crank and block both machined.
> > > NOW,
the car was NOT
> > >low on oil this time and I was cautious to the
point of
> > >paranoia when
> > >installing the bearings
and crank. I started driving the
> > >car again as of
>
> >this last memorial day. I've accumulated less than 1,500
>
> >miles since
> > >completing the rebuild.
> >
>
> > >Question is this: Why has a bearing
failed? Is it
> > >possible that the
> > >block
itself has some fatal flaw that causes this to keep
> >
>happening?
> > >
> > >I'll let you that are
interested know more as I get
> > >deeper into this. but as
>
> >always, any thoughts on the matter are highly valued.
> >
>
> > >-Jeff Crabtree
> > > '91 R/T TT(3SI
#0499)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2003 10:38:29
-0700
From: "Grd4Spd Racing" <
grd4spdracing@cox.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Toluene / Water / Alky / Propane
> > Not once have I
seen a post about raising the octane of the pump fuel to
> > defeat the
dreaded knock.Am I wrong in assuming that raising the octane
> > would
NOT be a viable means of controlling KNOCK?
Yes you are wrong.
:)
> Yes, you absolutely can raise the octane rating of pump gas
by mixing in
> additional toluene. The thing to be careful of is
that the petroleum
> companies have already mixed toluene into most
premium fuels, and
> there's no
> easy way to figure out how much is
already in there - so you are always
> guessing at what octane you are at
after you add more.
>
> Toluene works... 100 octane unleaded
race fuel is essentially 93 octane
> premium with a lot more toluene in
it. Not exactly the safest stuff to be
> mixing up in your garage
though, and if you spill it on your paint you may
> have a problem.
Don't go insane with the regular fuel to toluene ratio
> though or it'll
start eating seals and lines.
Toluene is an effective way to stave
detonation....
http://www.vtr.org/maintain/gasoline-octane.htmlregards,
terry
"If
it doesnt make you go fast, we don't sell it"
Grd4Spd Racing -
www.grd4spd.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2003 12:12:27
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Toluene / Water / Alky / Propane
This subject has been hashed over
multiple times on the racers list
and the 3SI.org site. Last outing at
Fontana [ road track ] several of
us added Zylene as a precautionary measure
--- I used 4 to 1 and
suffered no ill effects. I was going to data log the
sessions but somehow
never managed to get around to it. It's a simple way to
boost octane a
significant amount without paying $5 per gallon for 100 octane
unleaded.
Jim
Berry
=========================================
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Grd4Spd Racing" <
grd4spdracing@cox.net>
To: <
Team3s@team3s.com>
Sent: Saturday,
August 02, 2003 10:38 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Toluene / Water / Alky /
Propane
> > > Not once have I seen a post about raising the
octane of the pump fuel to
> > > defeat the dreaded knock.Am I wrong
in assuming that raising the octane
> > > would NOT be a viable
means of controlling KNOCK?
>
>
> Yes you are wrong.
:)
>
>
> > Yes, you absolutely can raise the octane
rating of pump gas by mixing in
> > additional toluene. The thing
to be careful of is that the petroleum
> > companies have already mixed
toluene into most premium fuels, and
> > there's no
> > easy
way to figure out how much is already in there - so you are always
> >
guessing at what octane you are at after you add more.
> >
> >
Toluene works... 100 octane unleaded race fuel is essentially 93
octane
> > premium with a lot more toluene in it. Not exactly the
safest stuff to be
> > mixing up in your garage though, and if you
spill it on your paint you may
> > have a problem. Don't go
insane with the regular fuel to toluene ratio
> > though or it'll start
eating seals and lines.
>
>
> Toluene is an effective way to
stave detonation....
>
>
http://www.vtr.org/maintain/gasoline-octane.html***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2003 12:16:41
-0700
From: "Grd4Spd Racing" <
grd4spdracing@cox.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Toluene / Water / Alky / Propane
I generally run 10-25% mix
of toluene, ATF, mineral spirits.....just as the
link suggest and it works
fine for me even with crappy california gas.
regards,
terry
"If
it doesnt make you go fast, we don't sell it"
Grd4Spd Racing -
www.grd4spd.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2003 11:30:55
-0400
From: "G&T Settle" <
settle@warwick.net>
Subject: Team3S:
VR-4 vs. SL for winter driving
I am actively looking to buy either a VR-4
or SL for a father-daughter
project which she will drive when we are done. I
really prefer the VR-4,
because of the technology and extra power. However,
we live in the Northeast
US (rural New York) and I want to ensure that
whichever we choose is a
reasonably well handling vehicle in the winter, as
she will be driving this
vehicle year-round. We get 3 to 4 feet of snow in an
average winter and some
ice, but not usually a lot. I am looking for some
guidance on whether the
VR-4 is better or worse under winter driving
conditions. I have been told by
someone I know at Mitsubishi that the extra
horsepower of the VR-4 makes it
more difficut to drive than an SL in winter,
even though it has 4-wheel
drive which should make it better handling. From
reading various posts on
the Team 3S site, I have seen many opinions
suggesting good winter tires,
but nothing really comparing the advantages /
disadvantages of these 2
models in the winter. A couple of secondary
questions related to
transmissions: If the VR-4 is the choice; I have also
seen on the site that
the 6-speed Getrag is problematic. Is it enough of a
problem that I should
stay with a 1993 or earlier model with the 5-speed? If
the SL is the best
choice, am I better off with the manual or automatic
transmission for winter
driving? I would really appreciate any guidance from
members out there on
these questions, having had no experience with 3000GT's
before, but very
much looking forward to joining your ranks. Thanks, Greg
Settle
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V2
#219
***************************************