Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Friday, August 1
2003 Volume 02 : Number
218
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 31 Jul 2003 13:45:25 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: SOHC Downpipe and Check Engine light
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Planet" <
planet.j@sympatico.ca>
> Hello
everyone, does anyone have a SOHC downpipe they could sell or even
'give' to
me. Mine is completely gone. I cant afford the 500$ to replace it
right now.
I would take a stock one if someone has upgraded. I know selection
is limited
because everyone has TT or DOHC. Its a 92 Stealth
OHC.
---snip--->
> Thanks
> Jay
-
----------------------------
Actually, more than half of Team3S members
have NT's, but since the TT's are
more complex (and we mod them more) there
are more things to go wrong... ;-)
That's why we make more noise on the
list...
3SXPerfomance.com has a downpipe for ~$300 which is better than
stock (I put
one on my '94 SOHC Stealth and it's great). It comes
complete with gaskets
and clamps. It shouldn't cost more than 1/2
hour's labor to replace it at any
muffler shop. Even here in pricey San
Fran, I paid $55.
Sorry, but my stock DP was about shot, so it was
trashed.
Best,
- ---Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 14:10:31
-0700
From: "Mosher, David" <
dmosher@ea.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Bearing failed, not oil pump
Sorry to hear that you are having a problem
with your car. I have had my
92 VR4 for 125,k and the only major thing
that I have needed in
addition to normal maintenance "clutch/ brakes" is the
Drive shaft. I
now have 202K on my car and it is still on the original
engine and
transmission; I really can't complain too much.
You
watch though; Murphy is probably just waiting around the next corner
to cause
some trouble for me. :)
Good luck with your car.
David
Mosher
92 Stock white pearl VR4 202K
- -----Original
Message-----
From: cody [mailto:overclck@satx.rr.com]
Sent: Thursday,
July 31, 2003 1:43 PM
To:
altieris@tulsaconnect.com;
Team3S@team3s.comSubject: RE: Team3S:
Bearing failed, not oil pump
That's funny, while I have some nagging
little problems with my Eagle
Talon, it is a '91 with 145k miles on it, and
running 18 psi boost, and
a few aftermarket goodies, still ticks off low 13
second 1/4 mile times
on pump gas, with factory turbo, motor, tranny,
etc...
- -Cody
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On
Behalf
> Of
altieris@tulsaconnect.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2003 2:52 PM
> To:
Team3S@team3s.com> Subject: Re:
Team3S: Bearing failed, not oil pump
>
> This is a little off topic
but...
>
> I will say this, I have owned many used sports cars,
most
> of them driven hard before I owned them..many of them
>
abused. And I have had more problems with my Dodge stealth
> with under
90K on it then all of them put together.
>
> My personal opinion is
that these cars are junk. Poorly
> manufactured with lousy
mechanicals.
>
> My car is a '92 R/T with only 86K miles on it. I
has had
> an engine and transmission replaced..and those are just
>
the major items. The mechanic told me "no this does not
> show signs of
abuse, these cars just don't last".
>
> My car was over $30K when
it was new.
>
> This is rediculous. I will never, never, ever buy
another
> mitusbishi built vehicle in my entire life.
>
>
Nick
>
> On Thu, 31 Jul 2003 12:45:22 -0500
>
"William J. Crabtree" <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
wrote:
> >Update:
> >
> >Thanks for everyone's
thoughts on my car late last week
> >when I thought
> >(read:
HOPED) that I had a failing or failed oil pump.
> > Wanted to
let
> >everyone know that I finally got around to draining the
>
>oil. It seems the
> >reason that I was getting a low oil
pressure light is
> >because of the fine
> >metal "silt" that
was clogging my oil filter. after
> >draining the oil, I
>
>stuck a telescoping magnet into the drain hole. It came
>
>out with a mostly
> >intact (albeit, bent all to hell) thrust
bearing. DAMN!
> >
> >I'm already halfway to pulling the
motor out of the car
> >(AGAIN!!!). I
> >figured pulling
it is probably just as easy as working on
> >replacing the
>
>crank and or bearings upside down on a garage floor.
> > Besides,
getting that
> >damn getrag into place with the motor in the car is
not
> >fun, I'd rather pull
> >them and drop them back in as a
unit.
> >
> >This is the THIRD time since I've owned the car
that a
> >bearing has failed.
> >First time, it started
ticking and turned into a knock.
> > The crank and
> >bearings
were replaced under an extended warranty that I
> >had at that
time.
> >The SECOND time, I had a wreck that drained the motor
of
> >oil while the car
> >sat idling, I had the crank and
block both machined.
> > NOW, the car was NOT
> >low on oil
this time and I was cautious to the point of
> >paranoia when
>
>installing the bearings and crank. I started driving the
>
>car again as of
> >this last memorial day. I've accumulated
less than 1,500
> >miles since
> >completing the
rebuild.
> >
> >Question is this: Why has a
bearing failed? Is it
> >possible that the
> >block
itself has some fatal flaw that causes this to keep
>
>happening?
> >
> >I'll let you that are interested know
more as I get
> >deeper into this. but as
> >always, any
thoughts on the matter are highly valued.
> >
> >-Jeff
Crabtree
> > '91 R/T TT(3SI #0499)
> > 2k Jeep TJ
Sport
> > St. Louis, MO
> >
> >
> >***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 15:56:28
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
WAS:RE: Team3S: Bearing failed, not oil pump NOW: Pieces of junk?
You are
certainly entitled to your opinion which is not shared by most of this owner
community.
Ever own a Fiat?
How about a corrosion-prone GM
product?
Were any of your previous sports cars trying to get this kind of
horsepower out of this displacement engine? Did any of them weigh two
tons?
I'm sure no one in history had any problems with an MG.
All
mechanical devices eventually fail. It's easier to get reliability with
simple brute force methods (like a big V8 engine) than with technology. If it
was up to Detroit, cars wouldn't even have disk brakes (see the movie "Tucker, a
man and his car"), and European manufacturers weren't much smarter, until Jaguar
kicked all their butts for about three years straight.
These cars were
the first that included ALL of the following electronic ignition, fuel
injection, ECU, 4 wheel ABS, 4 wheel disk brakes, oh yeah, Air bags, not to
mention the bells and whistles on the twin turbos, AWD, ECS, 4 wheel steering
and active aero. This stuff was pioneered on the Starion series.
I
defy you to show me a car with this kind of performance that can also protect
the owner to the extent this one does in a rollover without any additional
structural components.
There are a lot of people who love the Supras, but
talk to some of them about their experiences and disappointments. Every
car has strong and weak points. Show me a stronger one than the 3S for
comparable money.
Chuck Willis
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
altieris@tulsaconnect.com
[mailto:altieris@tulsaconnect.com]
Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2003 2:52
PM
To:
Team3S@team3s.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: Bearing failed, not oil pump
This is a little off topic
but...
I will say this, I have owned many used sports cars, most
of
them driven hard before I owned them..many of them
abused. And I have had
more problems with my Dodge stealth
with under 90K on it then all of them
put together.
My personal opinion is that these cars are junk. Poorly
manufactured with lousy mechanicals.
My car is a '92 R/T with only
86K miles on it. I has had
an engine and transmission replaced..and those
are just
the major items. The mechanic told me "no this does not
show
signs of abuse, these cars just don't last".
My car was over $30K when
it was new.
This is rediculous. I will never, never, ever buy another
mitusbishi built vehicle in my entire
life.
Nick
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 21:41:30
+0000
From:
mjannusch@comcast.netSubject: Re:
WAS:RE: Team3S: Bearing failed, not oil pump NOW: Pieces of junk?
>
These cars were the first that included ALL of
> the following electronic
ignition, fuel injection,
> ECU, 4 wheel ABS, 4 wheel disk brakes, oh
yeah,
> Air bags, not to mention the bells and whistles
> on the
twin turbos, AWD, ECS, 4 wheel steering
> and active aero. This
stuff was pioneered on
> the Starion series.
My Starion didn't have
most of that stuff. No airbags, no AWD, no ECS, no
4WS, no Active
Aero. I guess I got ripped off. :-/ Later models had FI,
ECU, ABS - mine had none of that either. ;-)
The $2200 a year
insurance was amusing though.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 21:56:08
+0000
From:
mjannusch@comcast.netSubject: Re:
Team3S: WAS Bearing failed, not oil pump, NOW Junk?
> My personal
opinion is that these cars are junk.
> Poorly manufactured with lousy
mechanicals.
I could say that Fords are junk due to the experience I had
with my Ranger.
However, I'm sure you'll find plenty of people out
there who haven't had
problems with theirs.
Of course you hear about
the problems all the time, but you don't often hear
people say "Yup, another
month with no problems on my car..." The complaints
register
louder.
Really, there haven't been any problems with my car that haven't
been self-
induced. The previous VR4 coupe I had also had zero
problems. The Eclipse
GSX I owned had zero problems. As did the
GS-T I owned before that, and the
GS-DOHC I owned before that one. The
Mighty Max pickup I had also had zero
problems. The Dodge Avenger out
in the garage (a Mitsubishi product, built
for Dodge) has also had no major
problems.
The Mazda 626 I owned had terminal crankshaft problems.
Are Mazdas junk
because of my one experience?
Do you know the history
of your car before you bought it? How do you know the
original owner
didn't beat the shit out of it, or never changed the oil?
Those sorts
of problems aren't going to show on the outside, and I doubt that
you could
tell a car that's been beat on versus a babied one just by looking
at it (or
even at the tranny internals once it has already failed).
- -Matt
'95
3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 17:37:13
-0500
From: <
altieris@tulsaconnect.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: WAS Bearing failed, not oil pump, NOW Junk?
The vehicle was a
one owner car before me and was dealer
serviced from day one. The previous
owner tool excellent
care of the vehicle- oil changes done on time every
time-
or early. All factory recommended maintenance done on time
every
time- all recalls were checked every time the
vehicle was brought in- and
they kept excellent records- I
can tell you every time the car had an oil
change or a
leaky tire fixed.
My first Camaro was an '82 Z28 owned by
a 25 year old who
had beat it pretty bad. I bought it with 120K miles- all
shocks and struts were gone- there was underbody scrapping
beyond
belief- the fron air damn was cracked...the oil was
bad as well as the
tranny fluid (auto)... The tranny fluid
was almost black. I changed all the
fluids and tried to
take good care of it. Granted- It did have some minor
problems- oil pump went, alternator, master cylinder..etc.
But I sold
the car with the original engine and
transmission with 175K on it. The '82
Z28 was a 305 cross
fire injected engine...
Granted, there will
always be lemons in every line. From
the people I have spoken with- the
early 90's mitsu's are
amoung the worst. For 10K less One could have bought
a
Mustang GT or Z28 that would kick your ass off the line.
for slightly
more one could buy a vette...
I degress....
On Thu, 31 Jul 2003
21:56:08 +0000
mjannusch@comcast.net wrote:
>>
My personal opinion is that these cars are junk.
>> Poorly manufactured
with lousy mechanicals.
>
>I could say that Fords are junk due to
the experience I
>had with my Ranger.
>However, I'm sure
you'll find plenty of people out there
>who haven't had
>problems
with theirs.
>
>Of course you hear about the problems all the time,
but
>you don't often hear
>people say "Yup, another month with no
problems on my
>car..." The complaints
>register
louder.
>
>Really, there haven't been any problems with my car that
>haven't been self-
>induced. The previous VR4 coupe I had
also had zero
>problems. The Eclipse
>GSX I owned had zero
problems. As did the GS-T I owned
>before that, and the
>GS-DOHC I owned before that one. The Mighty Max pickup I
>had also had zero
>problems. The Dodge Avenger out in the
garage (a
>Mitsubishi product, built
>for Dodge) has also had no
major problems.
>
>The Mazda 626 I owned had terminal crankshaft
problems.
> Are Mazdas junk
>because of my one
experience?
>
>Do you know the history of your car before you bought
it?
> How do you know the
>original owner didn't beat the shit out
of it, or never
>changed the oil?
>Those sorts of problems
aren't going to show on the
>outside, and I doubt that
>you could
tell a car that's been beat on versus a babied
>one just by looking
>at it (or even at the tranny internals once it has
>already
failed).
>
>-Matt
>'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
>
>*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 19:33:17
-0500 (CDT)
From: William Crabtree <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Re: Team3S: Bearing failed, not oil pump
Hey
Nick,
Just wanted to say, thanks for all the great advice
and encouragement. I don't know what I'd do without people like you to
really help with problems rather than starting arguments and off topic
discussions. May I offer you some advice?
Don't wanna mess
with your automobile? Buy a Jeep Wrangler.
Till then..
-
-Jeff Crabtree
St. Louis, MO
-
-------Original Message-------
From:
altieris@tulsaconnect.com<<<SNIP>>>
My
personal opinion is that these cars are junk. Poorly
manufactured with lousy
mechanicals.
<<<SNIP>>>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 23:04:17
-0400
From: "Gil Gomes" <
gil@3kgt.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: WAS
Bearing failed, not oil pump, NOW Junk?
Actually... that's
digress... And... I think it's a bit prejudicial to
chop down the
tree because there was a lemon growing among the peaches...
-
-G
> I degress....
>
> On Thu, 31 Jul 2003 21:56:08
+0000
>
mjannusch@comcast.net wrote:
>
>> My personal opinion is that these cars are junk.
> >>
Poorly manufactured with lousy mechanicals.
> >
> >I could say
that Fords are junk due to the experience I
> >had with my
Ranger.
> >However, I'm sure you'll find plenty of people out
there
> >who haven't had
> >problems with theirs.
>
>
> >Of course you hear about the problems all the time, but
>
>you don't often hear
> >people say "Yup, another month with no
problems on my
> >car..." The complaints
> >register
louder.
> >
> >Really, there haven't been any problems with my
car that
> >haven't been self-
> >induced. The previous
VR4 coupe I had also had zero
> >problems. The Eclipse
>
>GSX I owned had zero problems. As did the GS-T I owned
>
>before that, and the
> >GS-DOHC I owned before that one. The
Mighty Max pickup I
> >had also had zero
> >problems.
The Dodge Avenger out in the garage (a
> >Mitsubishi product,
built
> >for Dodge) has also had no major problems.
>
>
> >The Mazda 626 I owned had terminal crankshaft problems.
>
> Are Mazdas junk
> >because of my one experience?
>
>
> >Do you know the history of your car before you bought
it?
> > How do you know the
> >original owner didn't beat the
shit out of it, or never
> >changed the oil?
> >Those sorts of
problems aren't going to show on the
> >outside, and I doubt
that
> >you could tell a car that's been beat on versus a
babied
> >one just by looking
> >at it (or even at the tranny
internals once it has
> >already failed).
> >
>
>-Matt
> >'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
> >
> >***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 23:09:46
-0400
From: "Gil Gomes" <
gil@3kgt.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: WAS
Bearing failed, not oil pump, NOW Junk?
Mustang GTs...
Interesting. Seems to me that I've seen a number of them
on the
road. I have a difficult time remembering what they look
like,
though. I only see them in my rear view mirror... and they tend
to get
fairly small... very quickly...
- -G
One could have
bought a
> Mustang GT or Z28 that would kick your ass off the
line.
> for slightly more one could buy a vette...
www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 22:32:07
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Junk?
>> >> My personal opinion is that these cars
are junk.
>> >> Poorly manufactured with lousy
mechanicals.
>> >
My 92 Eagle (Mitsubishi) Talon TSi AWD, with
124,000 miles on it,
absolutely bone stock, tore up the track at the National
Gathering in St
Louis. Here it is leaving the high bank and entering turn 1
at 90+ mph.
http://mi3si.org/gatherings/ng03/imagepages/image124.htmTry
that with your beloved old Camaro. If that old stovebolt could actually
get
up to 90 mph, it would probably lose its brakes after the first turn,
and
collapse into a pile of rust by the second turn.
The Talon is currently
undergoing rejuvenation treatments (shocks, etc),
and I expect it to be as
fast or faster than my 3000GT VR4 when I get done
fiddling with it.
Mitsubishis live on, whilst lesser cars die and gather
rust in
junkyards.
Ancient Talons and Eclipses rule the SCCA Pro Series
Production GT class,
and VR4s and TT Stealths are the equal of any of the
$60,000 Porsche, Z06
Corvettes, and M3s running road course events. What was
that about junk?
And lousy mechanicals?
The only parts of Mitsubishi
that are junk are the Getrag transmission, the
dealer network and the
warranty. The cars are mechanical marvels.
I am amazed at the number of
posts defending our cars. We may all hate our
dealers, but we love our cars.
Most of us, anyway.
Rich/slow old poop
94 VR4, 92
Talon
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 21:16:21
-0700
From: "Andrew D. Woll" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Junk?
I haven't put that many miles on my Stealth, but so far
nothing really
unexpected has been wrought upon me. I knew when I
bought it that normal
maintenance items are expensive. The only real
problem the car has given me
(with 110k on it at purchase time) is the Air
Conditioning. Sometimes it
works, and sometimes it doesn't. Of course,
the "doesn't" is only on the 90
degree plus days. In general,however,
this car moves fast and moves under
control. What other car could I buy
for 8k that goes a true 150mph. (Not
that I personally go that fast, of
course...)
Andy
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of
merritt@cedar-rapids.netSent:
Thursday, July 31, 2003 8:32 PM
To:
Team3S@team3s.comSubject: Team3S:
Junk?
>> >> My personal opinion is that these cars are
junk.
>> >> Poorly manufactured with lousy
mechanicals.
>> >
My 92 Eagle (Mitsubishi) Talon TSi AWD, with
124,000 miles on it,
absolutely bone stock, tore up the track at the National
Gathering in St
Louis. Here it is leaving the high bank and entering turn 1
at 90+ mph.
http://mi3si.org/gatherings/ng03/imagepages/image124.htmTry
that with your beloved old Camaro. If that old stovebolt could actually
get
up to 90 mph, it would probably lose its brakes after the first turn,
and
collapse into a pile of rust by the second turn.
The Talon is currently
undergoing rejuvenation treatments (shocks, etc),
and I expect it to be as
fast or faster than my 3000GT VR4 when I get done
fiddling with it.
Mitsubishis live on, whilst lesser cars die and gather
rust in
junkyards.
Ancient Talons and Eclipses rule the SCCA Pro Series
Production GT class,
and VR4s and TT Stealths are the equal of any of the
$60,000 Porsche, Z06
Corvettes, and M3s running road course events. What was
that about junk?
And lousy mechanicals?
The only parts of Mitsubishi
that are junk are the Getrag transmission, the
dealer network and the
warranty. The cars are mechanical marvels.
I am amazed at the number of
posts defending our cars. We may all hate our
dealers, but we love our cars.
Most of us, anyway.
Rich/slow old poop
94 VR4, 92
Talon
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 00:30:09
-0500
From: "William J. Crabtree" <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Bearing failed, not oil pump
Yes it was line bored.
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Andy [mailto:awoll1@pacbell.net]
Sent:
Thursday, July 31, 2003 2:22 PM
To: William J. Crabtree; Team3S
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Bearing failed, not oil pump
Jeff: Was the engine
line bored when it was last rebuilt? If not, it should
definitly be checked
now.
Andy
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 00:30:10
-0500
From: "William J. Crabtree" <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Bearing failed, not oil pump
Matt,
I do not know,
since I did not measure them. I used the bearings that were
provided to
me by the shop that did the machine work for me, The shop owner
told me that
they were specifically for the circumference of the
crank/rods/saddle, since
all had been re-surfaced. I figured he knew more
about what he was
doing than I did...that's why I paid him to do the job.
This time around, how
can I be sure that I have the correct sizes and
clearances?
-
-Jeff
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of
mjannusch@comcast.net>
Question is this: Why has a bearing failed? Is
> it possible that
the block itself has some fatal
> flaw that causes this to keep
happening?
What did your oil clearance measure out to when you replaced
the bearings
last
time? What did the end-play measure on the crank
at the thrust bearings?
Which bearings did you use?
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 00:52:02
-0600
From: "Donald Ashby" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Stupid bleepin tranny...
OK, so tranny is compleatly apart minus
the actual gear assemblies. I'm going to call them that
because I don't know
their actual name...
Alright I'm going to post some pics of what I've done so
far,
http://www.team3s.com/~duck/tranny_small.jpghttp://www.team3s.com/~duck/transmission_left.jpgOk,
so thats all thats left, and I can't disassemble it anymore!?
All that
appears to be holding it in are those things I'm going to call shift forks, they
look like
bent 'U's and have those long arms on them that connect to the
shifter linkage thing. I can't get
the stupid things out! There are these
little pins holding the fork onto the shaft, but unfortunatly
the only way
I've found to get those pins out is knock them out, and right behind those pins
are
gears, so there isn't enough clearance to get the pins out, what am I
supposed to do?!
Car has been down for over 3 weeks now, I really want it
back before another 3 weeks pass! Help
please!!!!
(Oh and I've taken
about 100 pictures so far, so expect a very good VFAQ on how to replace gears
(or
in this case synchros) on a 3000GT 5 speed 18 spline transmission! That
of course won't come up
untill I'm successful though.)
Donald Ashby
'93
3000GT VR-4 (RIP)
'92 3000GT VR-4 (Tranny go boom)
"Don't drink and park,
accidents cause people!"
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 07:34:58
-0400
From: "Mike Frey" <
mike21b@ptd.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
WAS Bearing failed, not oil pump, NOW Junk?
> For 10K less One could
have bought a
> Mustang GT or Z28 that would kick your ass off the line.
Not in the rain.
Mike
92 RT/TT
165,000 miles
original
everything except brakes and tires
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 07:50:58
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: WAS Bearing failed, not oil pump, NOW Junk?
Or in the dry for
that matter, I had on several occasions dusted off the new
mustangs from the
line (not the 03 Cobras)
and that was stock. At BPU I harassed several
Corvettes until about 80-90,
with what is under the hood now I will be going
modded 03 cobra hunting ;)
And in answer to the modifications to exhaust
question I plead the 5th
thanks ;)
Russ F
CT
93 VR-4 DR650's and
supporting mods (13 days)
- -----Original Message-----
From: Mike Frey
[mailto:mike21b@ptd.net]
Sent: Friday, August 01, 2003 7:35 AM
To:
Team3S@team3s.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
WAS Bearing failed, not oil pump, NOW Junk?
> For 10K less One
could have bought a
> Mustang GT or Z28 that would kick your ass off the
line.
Not in the rain.
Mike
92 RT/TT
165,000
miles
original everything except brakes and tires
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
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***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 05:22:21
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Reno-Fernley Track Report
Track Overview:
http://www.reno-fernleyraceway.com/There's
a new track on the scene, and it's pretty terrific. July 17, 18, 19
was
the first weekend that Reno Fernley was officially open for business,
and
even though it really isn't ready yet, we had a ball. I'll try to
keep just
highlights and put more details on the Team3S "Race Reports"
section of our
website. But there's lots to tell, so even this
'synopsis' is long.
The track is currently 1.5 miles long, and it will be
3.8 miles for its grand
opening, sometime later this year. There's
almost no overall elevation change
at present, (maybe 20'?), but it will have
challenging hills and hidden turns
when it's finished. In its current
form, it's like a long oval, with hairpins
at both ends, a series of 4
"esses" on one side and 4 off-camber turns on the
other side, 2 of which are
blind and pretty scary at speed. The only wall is
after the second
hairpin, Turn 10, right at pit road. But the roadway is nice
and wide,
with 3-cars-across very comfortable on the straights. The short
track
is ready to run on now, although it *will* test your "pucker factor"...
There
are NO safe runoffs, so you *have to* stay on the track. When we
ran
there on July 17-19, what surrounds most of the perfectly-paved track
is
(maybe) 20 feet of sand. And then small boulders, rocks,
gravel... We got
instructions from Al Butterfield (Head of NASA Group
4) as follows: "If you
are going to lose it, don't let two wheels drop off,
since you *will* roll
over - instead, play 'Dukes of Hazzard' and point to
the edge and drive off"!
He was referring to the fact that off the pavement
is a drop varying from
several inches to a damn gully down below (blind) Turn
6. When we go back
there August 9/10, we are assured that the runoffs
will be filled in.
Substantial new work will be done between all event
weekends, since they are
on a 12-hour "prioritized improvement" construction
schedule. We could see a
mile-long section of roughed-in roadway that's
almost ready for asphalt, so I
believe them. I wouldn't be surprised if
they even added another section of
track by the next event.
The
Opening Was a Success.
Eileen and I really didn't expect much - we mostly
went to check it out, and
to tune and set up both our cars. But what a
pleasant surprise! NorCal NASA
director Jerry Kunzman and his team did
an amazing job of putting this thing
together with spit and chewing gum, and
the results were just great. Even
though Jerry's GF Theresa
<U>was</U> the PA system, walking or riding a golf
cart up and
down the paddock with a bullhorn, all the events went off on time,
and
without a hitch. And it was especially neat that since it was
only
half-full, we had 5 HPDE sessions per day, with extra laps and time to
spare.
The HPDE and race officials made sure to warn everyone up front about
how
dangerous the track was..., because it's still under construction.
Having
only 4 corner workers on the track appeared questionnable at first,
too, but
the track is so flat right now, they could see any problems right
from Timing
and Scoring. You really didn't need more workers.
Both
the track people and NASA deserve high praise for actually pulling
this
off. In the middle of nowhere..., 110+ heat..., track not even
half built...,
no buildings..., one water spigot..., and none of us even
noticed anything but
a great day at the track. Kudos to all of
them! And I guess we should give
ourselves a pat on the back too, for
being smart enough to exercise a bit of
extra care on the new track.
Except for a Pro-7 that flipped upside down on
top of the pit wall by coming
out of Turn 10 too hot, (and he hit it the next
day, too), another Group 4
racer plowing off in Turn 5 backwards, and a fast
Vette playing "lawn girl"
and getting a dust bath in the Turn 6 gully, all
other incidents that I saw
were were minor.
Plans and Facilities:
When I came back from one of my
runs, I was just taking off my helmet when a
cherry '94 yellow TT drove by,
and I yelled out, "Hey, Stealth", thinking it
was a Team3S member who decided
to stop by. Turns out it's the guy who's
building the track. He
gave me even more of the details about the
construction schedule and it IS
rigorous. This past weekend, there was only
enough paved area to park
the cars that were going to be on the track -
everyone else-- visitors' cars,
trailers, etc, had to be parked on the
adjacent gravel areas. These areas
will be paved during the next two weeks.
Currently, there are no facilities,
other than a few porto-sans and a single
cold water standpipe with no
hose. They get high marks for improvisation,
though, since using a
50-year old red Coca-Cola shack for Timing and Scoring
was really cool.
We are assured that running water, more paving in the
paddock and at least a
few buildings are on their high-priority "to-do" list.
I'll give an update on
how the track is progressing after the August 9/10
weekend...
Driving
The Track:
This is a *really* fast track, but as technical as it is, it's
still easy to
learn. But it's a little tough to master unless you've
got really good brakes
and race tires. And you've *got* to stay off the
berms, since they are the
corrugated kind that just rip up your tires.
At least an half-dozen cars
shredded their tires on these things. The
Porsche guys just couldn't learn...
;-) (There's a full description and
details of my experience driving there on
our Race Reports page).
My
"Track Car" Gets "Dialed In":
There have been many problems in tuning the
car, not the least of which is the
fact that I haven't had a period of time
when one component or another hasn't
failed. But it appears that most
of that is behind me. Rick Pierce has been
with me all the way on
tuning the car, and he and Lori came to Reno-Fernley
*just* to help me work
on datalogging and setting the SAFC-II to safe levels
for the thinner air and
higher altitude. On Friday, while the folks with
track licenses were
practicing, I went out on the interstate and datalogged
the car, and tweaked
settings according to Rick's emailed instructions from
earlier in the
week. It was 104 in shade, and according to the log readout,
air temp
was 135 on the track. I was disappointed with how the car felt at
that
point, since in between shifts, the revs would drop like a rock, and
there
was substantial knock. Here's my last log from Friday, 7/18:
www.Team3S.com/VR4-logs/Fernley0711803a.tlgWhen
Rick came on Saturday, he looked at it for 5 minutes, and changed a few
A/F
settings. He and Lori took the car out for another log run while I
tried
to cool down my body temp. Here's their log:
www.Team3S.com/VR4-logs/RickLori0711903A.tlg
I ran another Group 4 session
with the new settings, and the car felt
great! While I was out there, Rick
studied the log and when I came
back, he told me we were 'almost there', and
that I only had to change 3
settings at 5200, 5800, and 6400 rpm. Rick and
Lori left, and I tweaked
the SAFC-II settings as per his suggestions and I
tried another
datalog. I took Theresa with me out on the interstate to hold
the
laptop for a run, and took the VR-4 up to 130 in 3rd gear (7094rpm).
She
refused to do it a second time. ;-) Here's the log:
www.Team3S.com/VR4-logs/BobTheresa0711903B.tlg
The car felt great, and the
log said "NO knock". My next Group 4
session was the fastest I had for the
weekend. The temp gauge started
going up to that funny icon on the gauge (not
the top line), but I had never
seen it at anything but the middle line, so I
came in off the track. I
had the proper track line "down cold", and I could
have gone just a bit
faster if I had done a few more laps...
My Results - Most
Satisfying!
The subtle undulations of the track surface are brilliantly
designed for
really fast cars with tight suspensions. I had one of the
fastest 5 fastest
cars on the track in Group 4, even with stock brakes - a
credit to that
unbelievable JIC suspension... I ran in HPDE Group 4,
but I'm in the NASA TT
(time trials) program (with an in-car transponder) so
I got the printed lap
readouts from Timing and Scoring. In my first
session ever on the
Reno-Fernley track, my best lap time was 1:02 (1:01.998);
in my second
session, it was 1:00 (1:00.243). But on my third session I
broke 0:59
(0:58.825)!!! Yay! For those of you who don't want to
do the math, that's an
*average* LAP speed of just under 92mph! As a
point of reference, the fastest
pros in the Porsche race group were running
~0:55, the fastest Pro-7's,
race-prepped Spec Miatas, Hondas, and RX-7's in
the Enduro ran best laps
~0:56. On stock brakes and practically no
negative camber, in a 4100lb car,
I'm VERY happy about getting into the
58's! ;-)
Another weekend at the track... DAMN!, I love my
VR-4! ;-)
More details of driving the track and setting up my car
(THANKS, Rick
Pierce!!!) on the Race Reports Page on our website:
www.Team3S.com/RaceReports.htmBest,
Forrest
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 09:06:01
-0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Stupid bleepin tranny...
I've never had my tranny apart, but are
the pins you are talking about hollow? If so, you might be able to pull
them out, as opposed to pushing them out, with an easy-out. Tap the thing
in there, turn it a bit (not too much or you'll lodge it in there), and see if
you can pull it out. Or, you can drill it out.
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Donald Ashby [mailto:dashbyiii@earthlink.net]
Sent:
Thursday, August 01, 2002 2:52 AM
To: CODSM; Team3S
Subject: Team3S:
Stupid bleepin tranny...
<<<There are these little pins
holding the fork onto the shaft, but unfortunatly
the only way I've found to
get those pins out is knock them out, and right behind those pins are
gears,
so there isn't enough clearance to get the pins out, what am I supposed to
do?!>>>
Above email is for intended recipient only and may
be confidential and protected by attorney/client privilege.
If you are not
the intended recipient, please advise the sender immediately.
Unauthorized
use or distribution is prohibited and may be unlawful.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2003 13:55:16
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 1992 Stealth R/T Ignition Problems
Each coil is fired
individually by the ECU. The ECU grounds each of three circuits (one for each
coil) in the power transistor in sequence to charge each coil. When the ECU
breaks the circuit, the coil discharges and the pair of plugs fire. If the coil
is not bad and the power transistor is not bad, the only choices left are the
ECU itself and the wiring harness connecting the ECU to the power transistor.
Check each.
To check ECU:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-ecmremoval.htmTo
check harness:
Check continuity and resistance between connector at ECU and
connector at power transistor.
Let us know what you discover the solution
to be.
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Jessica T" <
jessicat@uslink.net>
To: <
Team3S@Stealth-3000GT.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, July 30, 2003 4:20 PM
Subject: Team3S: 1992 Stealth R/T Ignition
Problems
This is my first email to the Team 3S list. My name is
Jessica and I am an
electrical engineering student who only knows the basics
when it comes to
cars. My dad is working on my car because he is a
certified diesel mechanic
(he's not automotive but he can still do the job)
and I am a college student
that can afford only parts, NOT labor rates
(except for maybe a case of
beer) ;-) This is also the first
import car my dad has ever really worked
on (granted he does work on import
diesel engines all of the time and claims
my car's diagnostic information is
primitive when compared to the $200k
machines he works on).
In May I
bought a 1992 Stealth R/T (non-turbo). The previous owner was a
farmer
in the flat lands between Minnesota and North Dakota. My dad went
with
me to check out the car. Everything looked good so I paid for it
and
drove it the four hours to get home. (Please note, it ran excellent
and I
more than revelled when every car drove passed me with that wide-eyed
look.
There aren't very many Stealths or 3000GTs in my area.) For the
rest of May
and June I used it for light driving to work and it never had a
problem. A
few weeks ago it started acting with some peculiar behaviors
that my dad
cannot pinpoint.
First, I would like to mention that I
checked the archives for similar
problems and I did find one
post:
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 00:12:50 EST
From:
ThorHolth@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
Ignition problems
However, I did not ever find a solution post (perhaps I
didn't look hard
enough).
Anyway, my problem boils down to
this:
Observations- The car will start (starter has been "rebuilt"; the
brushes
were worn and replaced) and idle roughly. After warm-up and
30-45 seconds
of driving, the car will run normal. After about 15
minutes of driving
(about 7 minutes are around the 60 mph range and 8 are in
the 25-40 mph
range) the car will return to running roughly. First one
of the three coils
will cut out, then if run for longer another coil pack
will cut out. When
the car is only running on one of the three, the
engine usually dies. When
the wires are removed, there is no spark
coming from the coil pack. The
problem follows the coil pack and not
the plugs. The check engine light
always accompanies the "problem" and
the rpm's obvously drop when coils cut
out. Also, the car will begin to
run poorly faster if the the outside
temperature is 75+ degrees
F.
Attempts- I have the "good book" for my stealth and checked the MPI
codes.
I get a 44 and a 52. (One each for the 1/4 and the 2/5
cylinders). So my
dad and I checked the plugs. They were newly
replaced. We changed the
power transistor unit and reset the
codes. The problem remained. We
checked the coil pack as the book
suggests, but it conforms to
specifications.
When we switched the 2/5
coil pack (which was not firing) with the 3/6 coil
pack (which was firing)
the 2/5 coil pack was now firing on the 3/6
position. So we really
don't think it is a bad coil pack unless these are
notorious for acting
erractly....
I'm not sure if this is relevent to the problem but as a
side note, when we
went to get the numbers on the ECU, we found that the
radio was wired wrong.
So we rewired the stereo following the audio wiring
diagram, but the stereo
wire colors do not match those of the harness in the
circuit diagram. Now
all features of the stereo work (including the
steering buttons which did
not previously work), but now the stereo will stay
on even without the
ignition key. I don't think this is normal.
There is no sound (no power to
the speakers) but there is constant power to
the stereo. Without a key I
power up the stereo (and power
antenna) and put cd's into and out of the cd
player. We still must have
some issues with the wiring.
Somewhat baffled, my dad took the car to the
ONLY import technician in my
area while I was at work. The technician
read my codes from the diagnostics
port (and had the same info that I already
knew). He suggested my father
take out the additional Viper alarm
system that was wired into my car
because it might be backfeeding into the
electrical system. So my dad
removed the alarm system, reset the codes,
and the problem remained. The
technician suggested that it may be the
main computer and that it can be
replaced new for $1400-1800 or possibly a
refurbished one can be found. (He
claimed it took him weeks to find one
for a different Stealth at a
junkyard.) As a final note, we also
checked and cleaned the grime out of
the electrical connections and
plugs.
Theories- We think that maybe a sensor might be inputting
invalid
information to the ECU or perhaps the ECU itself is
defective.
This doesn't seem to be a common problem, but does anyone have
any comments
or input? I would REALLY appreciate any information anyone
can offer!
Thank you,
Jessica T
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 07:55:20
-0700 (PDT)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: passing emissions
I had a hard time this year passing the
emissions this
year also in Washington State. it was caused by
the
injectors, and only showed up at idle, I cleaned the
injectors at a
friends coin shop, and it passed. Prior
to finding the problem I had two
different shops
including a supposed ace speed shop look for the
problem
with expensive equipment and they had no clue.
I think if you ran a heavy
dose of off the shelf
injector cleaner through while it was driven it
may
also do the trick..
__________________________________
Do you
Yahoo!?
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 07:57:36
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Stupid bleepin tranny...
They are roll pins and they do NOT need to be
removed to dissemble
the tranny. They can be driven out with a punch of the
proper diameter.
I can't see very well from your pictures but those gear sets
and shift
forks should just lift out of the intermediate
case.
Jim
Berry
========================================
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
> I've
never had my tranny apart, but are the pins you are talking about hollow?
If so, you might be able to pull them out, as
opposed to pushing them out,
with an easy-out. Tap the thing in there, turn it a bit (not too much or
you'll lodge it in there),
and see if you can pull it out. Or, you can
drill it out.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Donald
Ashby [mailto:dashbyiii@earthlink.net]
> Sent: Thursday, August 01, 2002
2:52 AM
> To: CODSM; Team3S
> Subject: Team3S: Stupid bleepin
tranny...
>
>
> <<<There are these little pins
holding the fork onto the shaft, but unfortunatly
> the only way I've
found to get those pins out is knock them out, and right behind those pins
are
> gears, so there isn't enough clearance to get the pins out, what am
I supposed to do?!>>>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 10:06:06
-0500
From: "William J. Crabtree" <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Stupid bleepin tranny...
Been here, done this, bought the
T-shirt....
Did you remove the bolt that holds the input shaft into
the back of the
case? If not, there's a hex headed bolt under that
little black plastic
cover. Pry the cover off with something like a
pick and remove this bolt.
MAKE SURE you use the proper sized hex key (allen
wrench...whatever you
wanna call it) I think it's a metric size. The
REASON you want to be
extemely careful about this is because that hex
bolt is a very specific
size, head heigth, and thread pitch. If you
screw it up, like I did,
removing it, you are going to have a hard time
finding a replacement. I
actually ended up MANUFACTURING one from
something that was similar.
It's BEST if you had loosened this bolt when
the transmission was still in
the car, because now you will have a BITCH of a
time keeping the grear
assemblies from moving while you're trying to loosen
it(what, with oil on
them and all....they're hard to hold). But don't
worry...there's ways
around this too. Take a piece of soft wood and jam
it into the gear
assmeblies to bind them against one another. Also, if
you have an impact
wrench or a hammer drill, put the PROPER SIZED
hex/allen-key into it and go
to town on it. This is what worked for
me.
This bolt retains the gear assmemblies in the back of the case (the
bottom
as you're looking at it in your pics). Once it is removed, place
a socket
on the end of the shaft where you just removed the bolt and tap it
with a
hammer until everything falls out of the case and apart. You
should not
have to disassemble the shift forks( the pins you are referring to
are
called "roll pins"). Everything will come out as a CLUMP.
Now, HAVE FUN
getting it all back into the case when you're done!!
Let
me know if you need more help. Also, if you REALLY get stuck here's
a
link I found EXTREMELY helpful during my rebuilds. (the exploded view
helps
alot)
http://www.kormextrans.com/W5MG1/W5MG1.htm-
-Jeff Crabtree
'91 R/T TT (3SI# 0499)
2k Jeep TJ Sport
St. Louis,
MO
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Donald Ashby
Sent: Thursday,
August 01, 2002 1:52 AM
To: CODSM; Team3S
Subject: Team3S: Stupid bleepin
tranny...
<<<<SNIP I can't get
the stupid things out!
<<<<SNIP>>>>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 16:32:05
+0100
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject:
Team3S: xfer recall notice text
Does anyone have the Stealth recall
notice in softcopy that they could post
or Email to me (or send a URL)?
I have the 3000GT recall notice, but I need
the one Stealth owners
received. Thanks!
- - --
Jim Matthews - Yorkshire, England
mailto:jim@the-matthews.comhttp://www.the-matthews.com
*** Team3S, 3SI #0030, GTOUK #155 ***
http://www.the-matthews.com/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R Mk1
(1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer, Blitz Super Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery
Redline synth
fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff= SPHvy)
PF cryoed rotors, R4S pads, SS
lines w/SBs, red calipers
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171
mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno
Session: 367 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2003 16:21:34
+0000
From:
mjannusch@comcast.netSubject: RE:
Team3S: Bearing failed, not oil pump
> This time around, how can I be
sure that I have the
> correct sizes and clearances?
Use Plastigage
on each of the crank and rod journals and test-fit the entire
assembly. Torque everything to spec, but use no oil or lube or
anything for
the test fit. The Plastigage will get squished, and then
you measure its
width to determine the clearances. The Green
Plastigage is correct for
measuring the main and rod bearings. I
forget the specs, but they are likely
in the Service Manual and are for sure
in the Rebuild Manual.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2003 17:00:16
+0000
From:
mjannusch@comcast.netSubject: Re:
Team3S: WAS Bearing failed, not oil pump, NOW Junk?
> For 10K less One
could have bought a Mustang
> GT or Z28 that would kick your ass off the
line.
> for slightly more one could buy a vette...
No
street-driven Mustang GT or Z28 OR Corvette has EVER kicked my ass off the
line either at the dragstrip or on the street. ...and I've raced
against
plenty of them. Still waiting for that to happen.
>
My first Camaro was an '82 Z28
Mine too, though I rarely admit to
it. ;-)
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
12.461@110.83*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 13:03:50
-0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Bearing failed, not oil pump
Plastigage is an invaluable tool for
checking clearances. For more info, see:
http://www.dana.com/perfectcircle/Plastigage.htm-
-----Original Message-----
From:
mjannusch@comcast.net
[mailto:mjannusch@comcast.net]
Sent: Friday, August 01, 2003 12:22 PM
To:
William J. Crabtree
Cc: Team3S
Subject: RE: Team3S: Bearing failed, not
oil pump
> This time around, how can I be sure that I have
the
> correct sizes and clearances?
Use Plastigage on each of the
crank and rod journals and test-fit the entire
assembly.
Above email is for intended recipient only and may be confidential
and protected by attorney/client privilege.
If you are not the intended
recipient, please advise the sender immediately.
Unauthorized use or
distribution is prohibited and may be unlawful.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 10:09:45
-0600 (MDT)
From: Jim Floyd <
jim_floyd7@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Re: Team3S: WAS Bearing failed, not oil pump, NOW Junk?
Bunch of
kids : )
My first Camero was a '71 Rally Sport.
-
-------Original Message-------
From:
mjannusch@comcast.netSent: 08/01/03
11:00 AM
To:
altieris@tulsaconnect.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: WAS Bearing failed, not oil pump, NOW Junk?
>
>
> For 10K less One could have bought a Mustang
> GT or Z28 that would
kick your ass off the line.
> for slightly more one could buy a
vette...
No street-driven Mustang GT or Z28 OR Corvette has EVER kicked
my ass off
the
line either at the dragstrip or on the street.
...and I've raced against
plenty of them. Still waiting for that to
happen.
> My first Camaro was an '82 Z28
Mine too, though I
rarely admit to it. ;-)
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
12.461@110.83*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 10:21:45
-0700
From: "Rivenburg, Pete" <
privenburg@firstam.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Bearing failed, not oil pump
Just out of curiosity, the crank
endplay on the DOHC engines, is it gapped
with X amount of play or tight with
a sprung thrust washer?
On engines with endplay required I like to use a dial
indicator instead of
plastigage. On engines with NO endplay (tighly sprung
thrust washers)I have
just polished the block & crank were the washer
touches and prayed for the
best.
Pete Rivenburg
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Starkey, Jr., Joseph [mailto:starkeyje@bipc.com]
Sent:
Friday, August 01, 2003 10:04 AM
To:
mjannusch@comcast.net; William J.
Crabtree
Cc: Team3S
Subject: RE: Team3S: Bearing failed, not oil
pump
Plastigage is an invaluable tool for checking clearances.
For more info,
see:
http://www.dana.com/perfectcircle/Plastigage.htm-
-----Original Message-----
From:
mjannusch@comcast.net
[mailto:mjannusch@comcast.net]
Sent: Friday, August 01, 2003 12:22 PM
To:
William J. Crabtree
Cc: Team3S
Subject: RE: Team3S: Bearing failed, not
oil pump
> This time around, how can I be sure that I have
the
> correct sizes and clearances?
Use Plastigage on each of the
crank and rod journals and test-fit the entire
assembly.
Above email is for intended recipient only and may be confidential
and
protected by attorney/client privilege.
If you are not the intended
recipient, please advise the sender immediately.
Unauthorized use or
distribution is prohibited and may be unlawful.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 12:32:08
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: WAS Bearing failed, not oil pump, NOW Junk?
I think it was
mis-typing: Nick meant to say 'Stangs and Firechickens "would KISS your
ass off the line"! (grin)
Chuck Willis
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
mjannusch@comcast.net
[mailto:mjannusch@comcast.net]
Sent: Friday, August 01, 2003 12:00 PM
To:
altieris@tulsaconnect.comCc:
Team3S@team3s.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
WAS Bearing failed, not oil pump, NOW Junk?
> For 10K less One
could have bought a Mustang
> GT or Z28 that would kick your ass off the
line.
> for slightly more one could buy a vette...
No
street-driven Mustang GT or Z28 OR Corvette has EVER kicked my ass off the
line either at the dragstrip or on the street. ...and I've raced
against
plenty of them. Still waiting for that to happen.
>
My first Camaro was an '82 Z28
Mine too, though I rarely admit to
it. ;-)
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
12.461@110.83*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 13:31:22
US/Eastern
From:
ratkins@cfl.rr.comSubject: Re: Re:
Team3S: WAS Bearing failed, not oil pump, NOW Junk?
yiotta ya lil
WhipperSnapper
Mine was a '68 250ci inline 6 - 2spd
lazimatic
badbob
> Bunch of kids : )
> My first
Camero was a '71 Rally Sport.
>
> -------Original
Message-------
> From:
mjannusch@comcast.net> Sent:
08/01/03 11:00 AM
> To:
altieris@tulsaconnect.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: WAS Bearing failed, not oil pump, NOW Junk?
>
> >
> > > For 10K less One could have bought a
Mustang
> > GT or Z28 that would kick your ass off the line.
>
> for slightly more one could buy a vette...
>
> No
street-driven Mustang GT or Z28 OR Corvette has EVER kicked my ass off
>
the
> line either at the dragstrip or on the street. ...and I've
raced against
> plenty of them. Still waiting for that to
happen.
>
> > My first Camaro was an '82 Z28
>
>
Mine too, though I rarely admit to it. ;-)
>
> -Matt
>
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
>
12.461@110.83>
> ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> >
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 13:42:30
-0700
From: "Mosher, David" <
dmosher@ea.com>
Subject: Team3S: AC
problem
Hello Andy,
I like many other owners have had AC problems
but fortunately I found an
easy fix for my symptoms. What I normally
experience also on hot days is
that the fans work but nothing is really being
cooled down. At first I
thought that my Freon was gone but after having it
measured/ checked out
I was told that everything looked fine and that would
be 80 dollars
please :( Then I noticed on my AC digital panel that I
had a red dot
where I had once seen a Blue snowflake icon. After doing
some digging I
found that this red dot was telling me that something wrong
with the
system; no kidding.
I ran across a memo that you can't
leave the air on when you shut down
the car or if you do leave it on just
turn the AC off with the car
running and then turn it back on. I know it
sounds weird but in my case
it does work. My guess is that by turning
the AC system off with the AC
switch it resets the AC system properly.
Shutting down by turning off
the ignition key seems in my case to put the AC
system into some kind of
protected mode or perhaps our cars system computer
thinks there is some
problem with the AC an prevents the compressor from
switching on.
Sounds to me like it was a design flaw on the AC system that
Mitsubishi
needs to have a recall on :)
Long story short is try to
cycle the AC system by hitting the off button
on the AC control panel and
then hit the AC Auto button with the car
running.
This works for me
every time; good luck staying cool this summer.
David Mosher
92
White Pearl VR4 204K Stock.
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Andrew D. Woll [mailto:awoll1@pacbell.net]
Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2003
9:16 PM
To:
merritt@cedar-rapids.net;
Team3S@team3s.comSubject: RE: Team3S:
Junk?
I haven't put that many miles on my Stealth, but so far nothing
really
unexpected has been wrought upon me. I knew when I bought it
that
normal
maintenance items are expensive. The only real problem
the car has
given me
(with 110k on it at purchase time) is the Air
Conditioning. Sometimes it
works, and sometimes it doesn't. Of course,
the "doesn't" is only on
the 90
degree plus days. In
general,however, this car moves fast and moves
under
control. What
other car could I buy for 8k that goes a true 150mph.
(Not
that I
personally go that fast, of course...)
Andy
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of
merritt@cedar-rapids.netSent:
Thursday, July 31, 2003 8:32 PM
To:
Team3S@team3s.comSubject: Team3S:
Junk?
>> >> My personal opinion is that these cars are
junk.
>> >> Poorly manufactured with lousy
mechanicals.
>> >
My 92 Eagle (Mitsubishi) Talon TSi AWD, with
124,000 miles on it,
absolutely bone stock, tore up the track at the National
Gathering in St
Louis. Here it is leaving the high bank and entering turn 1
at 90+ mph.
http://mi3si.org/gatherings/ng03/imagepages/image124.htmTry
that with your beloved old Camaro. If that old stovebolt
could
actually
get up to 90 mph, it would probably lose its brakes after
the first
turn,
and collapse into a pile of rust by the second
turn.
The Talon is currently undergoing rejuvenation treatments (shocks,
etc),
and I expect it to be as fast or faster than my 3000GT VR4 when I
get
done
fiddling with it. Mitsubishis live on, whilst lesser cars die and
gather
rust in junkyards.
Ancient Talons and Eclipses rule the SCCA
Pro Series Production GT
class,
and VR4s and TT Stealths are the equal of
any of the $60,000 Porsche,
Z06
Corvettes, and M3s running road course
events. What was that about junk?
And lousy mechanicals?
The only
parts of Mitsubishi that are junk are the Getrag transmission,
the
dealer
network and the warranty. The cars are mechanical marvels.
I am amazed at
the number of posts defending our cars. We may all hate
our
dealers, but
we love our cars. Most of us, anyway.
Rich/slow old poop
94 VR4, 92
Talon
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 14:09:52
-0700 (PDT)
From:
chfmn@webtv.net
(Walter Womack)
Subject: Team3S: Kikmy az offa lyne?
I don't think
so.Most the time, I even get near a Corvette or BMW
orTrans Am etc, they seem
to take it upon themselves to relinquish any
idea whatsoever to fk w/me.Can
be quite frustrating knowing that the
other driver thinks he's god's gift to
speed and to challenge him only
to find that evidently he thinks that today
may not be the time to go up
against a 11yr old 6cyl Piece of crap.
By the
way.Anyone out there using Toulene?
Was thinking about raising my Oct# seeing
how as I am adding a
MBC.Already did Lucius free upgrade.Did notice an
improvement around 2k
but want to go to at least 14# boost just to see.I have
read many posts
about KNOCK.I have read about cool plugs-hot
plugs-ecus-ecms-on and on
about KNOCK.(and sensors)
What I have not read
about is our ability to raise the octane# from the
gas we pump..
Does
anyone out there do this?And if not;Why not:?
92 RTTT Pearl
White
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V2
#218
***************************************
