----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 27 Jul 2003 13:02:10 -0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 'Dream Race Week' Bay Area gathering update...
>FWIW...for
our "old poop Rich" and other Team3S racers, there are some of
us
>who
are more interested in perfecting our 1/4 mile runs than going
around
in
>circles, shattering rotors, boiling brake fluid, and plowing
fields. ;-)
Likewise, some of us road racers don't like to
drag race and destroy
clutches, trannies, transfer cases, diffs, and
axles.
To each his own, I guess.
Rich/slow old
poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 13:11:26
-0500
From: "Nick McDermott" <
eire1274@cox.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
help with friends eclipse 1.8L
Head gasket.
A quick way to tell by
the way without removing anything is that white
"smoke" in the exhaust that
smells sweet is coolant, bluish that smells
like a lawnmower is oil, and
black is carbon blowout or fuel overflow.
If the car is dumping that much
coolant, then there is either a BAD head
gasket breach, or (not likely) one
of the coolant journals that runs
coolant to/from the head has cracked,
causing a breach into the
cylinder, but this is very unlikely.
Good
luck getting the head off. Did this to my brother's 92 Laser,
same
motor, and it was almost as cramped as my 93 VR-4. Mitsubishi
builds
cool cars, but they do take every available bit of space, don't
they?
Nick
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 13:13:14
-0500
From: "Nick McDermott" <
eire1274@cox.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
'Dream Race Week' Bay Area gathering update...
Geez, guys.
Making
me think I should just leave my car in the garage and forget
driving
it. ;)
Nick
93 VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 11:51:26
-0700
From: "Chris Winkley & Teri Beaman" <
cwinkley@hevanet.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 'Dream Race Week' Bay Area gathering
update...
Nick...
That's certainly an option as well.
;-)
I was merely pointing out that while Bob Forrest is attempting to
create a
venue that gathers as many 3KGT/Stealth owners at once and allows
for
everyone to pursue their own preferred method of "wear and tear",
Rich
Merritt was ready and willing to drop the 1/4 mile portion because
he
prefers to run open track. I've done both and can say, without a
moments
hesitation, that there are thrills associated with both open track
and drag
racing but the open track consumes many more $$$ on a daily basis
than drag
racing. I've replaced brake pads, rotors, tires, and fluids after a
weekend
on the open track while I've had many, many 1/4 mile runs without
breaking
any of the items Rich mentioned (although I did wear out the stock
clutch at
40K miles).
Looking forward...Chris
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 12:33:58
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
help with friends eclipse 1.8L
It may be that simple but it may be a
warped or cracked head or block. It
almost
impossible to tell until the
head is removed and checked. Pull the head and
take it to a shop to have it
checked.
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 12:38:29
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Ball Joint Replacement
There is a guy in New Zealand that has access to
the ball joints for the
turbo
car --- they are probably the same but I'm
not sure. Check the 3SI.org site
and do a search for lower ball
joints.
I found his email address --- it may be an old one.
sirbobivis@hotmail.com
Jim Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 14:49:51
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 'Dream Race Week' Bay Area gathering update...
I just threw
it out as an option, thinking that maybe the need to combine a
road course,
drag race and autocross made scheduling too complex. After
all, we road
racers will drive all the way to Californy to drive those
famous tracks, but
I can't imagine anybody taking a car that far just to
drag race it. So, I wuz
willing to give those events up if it made life
easier on the person doing
the scheduling. If they keep drags in, I will be
happy to come watch you
guys. Maybe I'll even build a 10 sec Talon and
smoke all of
you.
Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 16:17:15
-0500 (CDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: 3S-Racers: Re: Team3S: 'Dream Race Week' Bay Area
gathering
update...
All things being equal..I think you can open track
and look pretty good
without being abusive on the car, as where there's no
way to look good or
justify the hrs spent in line on a hot day by taking it
"easy" drag racing.
- ---
www.SpeedToys.com: Geoff Mohler
orders@speedtoys.comTeam3S/3Si.org
Vendor approved brake discounter; also,
parts for Toyota, Audi, BMW,
Mercedes, Porsche, SAAB, Volvo.
Where do you buy YOUR brakes? I can
help...asking is free! :)
"If its in stock, we have
it!"
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 16:18:17
-0500 (CDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 'Dream Race Week' Bay Area gathering
update...
Chris:
Takes a lotta brakes to get to the cost of a
tranny. (easier to replace
too)
- ---
www.SpeedToys.com: Geoff Mohler
orders@speedtoys.comTeam3S/3Si.org
Vendor approved brake discounter; also,
parts for Toyota, Audi, BMW,
Mercedes, Porsche, SAAB, Volvo.
Where do you buy YOUR brakes? I can
help...asking is free! :)
"If its in stock, we have
it!"
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 18:41:35
-0400
From: David Friedlander <
forzion@maine.rr.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Ball Joint Replacement
Jim;
Thanks much. Yes, his name is
Rob Vis. Here's the latest info regarding ball
joints, received about an hour
ago.
Hi Dave
I do still sell these as there is a small steady
demand
Cost is $110US for a set (2) which includes shipping.
They come
with boot and grease nipple and C-clip.
I use paypal for payment method, send
to this address.
Shipping takes about 5-10 days.
Rob.
NOTE:
There is a boot issue which is not resolved, the supplier does fit
these, and
manages to fit the supplied boot, i have also but it is bloody
slow
and
difficult not to damage, people in the USA are now opting to buy the
Mitsu
boot from their local dealer for $5ea which are easier to fit.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 02:44:39
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
philip@supercar-engineering.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 3SNG'03 Videos
Okay, I have my new website up (still work in
progress though). I posted
the 3SNG'03 track and autocross videos there,
along with a few new short
ones for those with dial-up connections.
Enjoy!
http://supercar-engineering.com/vid50-3SNG03.htmPhilip
http://supercar-engineering.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 08:30:49
-0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: help with friends eclipse 1.8L
Hmm, sounds like a warped or
cracked block. Any coolant in the oil?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 08:13:29
-0500
From: "Darlene Madden" <
dmadden@selectis.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Rear seat
The passenger side of my rear seat of my 93 ES just out
of the blue popped
up and won't reattach. I tried to pop it back in by puling
a black handle
and repositioning it but there is this white rectangular piece
of plastic
that seems to be cracked right where it goes into the socket of
the frame.
Anybody know what this piece is and where to get a replacement?
Will this
take care of the whole problem or is something else causing it? All
help
appreciated.
Darlene
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 09:20:25
-0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Rear seat
It's called a Seat Grommet. Part No.
MB592813. That should take care of it
(if you can find
it!)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 10:40:16
-0500 (CDT)
From: "Stephen C. Kempf" <
kempfsc@mail.auburn.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: AC and stalling out
Thanks to everyone for past advice on my
Stealth. I've run into another
problem and before taking it in for service
wanted to see if I could get
some feedback so I have a better idea about what
I'm talking about when I
discuss it with the mechanic at the shop I go
to.
The car has 83,000 miles on it and it did have its 60,000 mile
service
(though that's a story in itself and something that comments from
members
of this group were a BIG help on). At any rate, I've recently
started
having problems with the car stalling out while idling. This
problem
appears to be somehow tied in with the air conditioning (which still
does
a great job of cooling). If the air conditioning is turned off the idle
is
fine and the engine idles at 1000 rpm which is where its always been
up
until this problem started. When the AC is turned on, the idle drops
to
600-700 rpm. As I drive with the AC on, when I come to a stop the
idle
sometimes fluctuates up and down between almost zero rpm and 500-600
rpm.
At this point, the engine sometimes stalls. I can sometimes get
this to
happen when the car is sitting at idle with the AC on and I goose
the
engine. As the rpms settle back down the fluctuation occurs and seems
to
be in sink with the fan relay clicking on and off (when you stand
outside
the car while someone does this you can hear a loud clack and the
fans
come on). This does not occur if the AC is turned off.
It seems
as though the AC is dragging, i.e. putting more load on the
engine than it
should. I suppose that this might be an indication that the
AC compressor
(which has never been replaced, its still running on the old
type Freon
actually the replacement for it) is on its last legs and about
to crap out,
but I don't have enough experience to know if this is a
possibility or
not.
Any advice will be appreciated.
Steve
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 11:47:47
-0400
From: Marc Jaffe <
marc@marcjaffe.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Still dead ... need advice!
Ok...I need help to decide what to
do.
If I can prove something got sucked into the intake due to the
previous
repairs then Allstate will total my car for $16k. My risk is $1200 -
$1500,
and I am between jobs.
1) Since the Airbox was most likely
removed to rewire the fuse box, What are
the chances the catastrophic 4 out
of 6 dead cylinders was caused by a
screw, washer, etc coming in the intake?
(After 1800 miles)...can something
make it's way thru the system?
2)
What's the car worth with a dead engine? The car is in good
shape.
Please reply asap I need to make a decision
today..
Thanx
Marc
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 12:09:36
-0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Still dead ... need advice!
<<<1) Since the Airbox was
most likely removed to rewire the fuse box, What
are
the chances the
catastrophic 4 out of 6 dead cylinders was caused by a
screw, washer, etc
coming in the intake? (After 1800 miles)...can something
make it's way thru
the system?>>>
I'd say not very likely. First, it would never
get passed the MAF sensor's
honeycombs. However, assuming the MAF
sensor was removed, the path would be
through the Y pipe, passed the throttle
body, and down into one of the valve
chambers, where it would proceed to jam
up one of the valves. It would
never make its way into the combustion
chamber. Since there is no evidence
that the timing jumped, this would
more likely than not destroy one cylinder
only (the cylinder with the jammed
valve), and not 3 others as well.
JMHO..
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 09:18:05
-0700
From: "Rivenburg, Pete" <
privenburg@firstam.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Still dead ... need advice!
Marc-
Is it possible the one
of your turbos came apart and put pieces into all the
dead cylinders??
The
4 dead ones & the 1800 miles plus the honeycomb kinda rules out "a"
screw
(or whatever) doing all the damage, although if "a" screw got into the
turbo
and shattered it into pieces small enough to get through
the
MAF.............. or destroyed the MAF sensor pushing IT down
the
intakes......
Have you looked into the throttle body yet to see if
the MAF honeycomb is
still there? Kind of a prerequisite to diagnosing this
nasty "incident". I
would be looking at the turbos hard too.
Pete
Rivenburg
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 16:28:16
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: AC and stalling out
According to the service manuals, the ECU
does not check the ISC/IAC servo
for proper operation. There is no
fail-safe/back-up function. Nor is there a
diagnostic fault code set if the
ISC/IAC servo fails. Your symptoms seem
like a classic ISC/IAC (idle speed
control/idle air control) servo
malfunction. When you put an extra load on
the engine (AC compressor
operating, headlights, brake lights, power
steering, etc.) the idle slows,
rather than increases, because the ECU is
unable to increase the idle speed
using the ISC servo.
I gather from
the AC type that you have a 1991-1993 model. A datalogger can
tell you if the
ISC is working correctly. I have some tips and info about
R&Ring the ISC
servo and cleaning it on my web page below.
http://www.stealth316.com/2-isc-iac.htmFirst
you must be sure that warm idle speed is set to the factory spec 700
+/- 100
rpm (see manual for procedure). If the engine does not idle smoothly
at this
speed, use the troubleshooting guide in the manual to fix this
problem first.
The ISC/IAC servo may be the problem, but there can be many
other causes as
well, including improper basic timing advance. The 1992-1996
3000GT manual
has an excellent guide for troubleshooting idle problems
(better than early
Stealth manual guides). Be sure there is some slack in
the throttle cable so
that the ECU can control idle speed using the servo.
After the engine
idles correctly, wait until it is cold. Shortly after a
cold start, when idle
should be like 1200 or so rpm, turn on the AC. The
idle speed should
immediately jump higher. Another test would be to turn the
steering wheel (so
that the power steering pump engages) during warm or cold
idle. The idle
speed should also jump up. If the speed does not change
suspect the ISC/IAC
servo is bad or needs cleaning.
A small correction to my web page above:
I have recently datalogged and seen
the ISC step count reach and stay at zero
during warm engine operation and
idling. I believe the servo is still
functioning correctly because it moves
to 13 steps (9 steps plus 4 apparently
for altitude correction) during basic
idle speed adjustment.
Jeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 10:28:44
-0600
From: "Curtis McConnell" <
Curtis.McConnell@Pulte.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Driveshaft work
I am having pretty bad vibration that I think is
the u-joints or the
carrier bearings. The vibration occurs at about 3-5k
RPM's really in any
gear. After getting under the car the driveshaft will
move about an inch
up and down/side to side. I have called 2 shops and he
wanted me to
bring him the driveshaft and charge $150 to fix them. That seems
a
little steep. The dealer says they can't repair them, I would need
an
all new driveshaft.
Anyone CO know of a shop that they can
recommend?
Curtis McConnell
1995 Vr-4 Spyder
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 12:31:27
-0400
From: Joseph Spainhour <
spainhou@bellsouth.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: AC and stalling out
I have never had this happen to my VR-4,
but my laser had this exact
same problem. It turned out that the ISC had to
be adjusted. I would
start out by checking the ISC motor, or whatever device
the stealth has
that controls your idle speed.
Joseph
93 3KGT
VR-4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 11:28:22
-0500 (CDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Driveshaft work
$150 aint bad compared to a new
one.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 10:32:38
-0600
From: "Curtis McConnell" <
Curtis.McConnell@Pulte.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Driveshaft work
I agree, but I have heard it should be more
like $50-$100.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 09:41:01
-0600 (MDT)
From: Jim Floyd <
jim_floyd7@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Re: Team3S: Driveshaft work
Does the $150.00 guarantee it will work
?
$900.00 for a new one or carbon fiber from PST.
Last new one I bought
from Mitsubishi lasted about a year so I went with
carbon fiber and it's
going on 3 years now.
The bearings on the PST are 50% larger than stock and
they can be
lubricated.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 11:48:17
-0500 (CDT)
From: "Stephen C. Kempf" <
kempfsc@mail.auburn.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: AC and stalling out
Sorry I forgot to say that my Stealth is a
1993 ES, not a twin turbo (I
can only dream at this
point).
Thanks,
Steve
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 16:49:41
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Braking Problem
Rich,
OK, you are confusing me. Are
you saying AutoSpecialty's PowerStop rotors
are now "scrap steel rotors" or
that Porterfield's are? In either case, what
is your source of information?
Have you contacted either company?
When the list had this discussion in
May 2001 I called AutoSpecialty and
talked to them about our rotors. Search
the archives for more info.
Yesterday I emailed Porterfield to see who makes
their rotors for our cars
now. Below is the response I just
received
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 11:49:01
-0500 (CDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Driveshaft work
For how many joints? I lost count how
man are in the -3- piece 3S shaft.
Hefty sucker.
- ---
www.SpeedToys.com: Geoff Mohler
orders@speedtoys.comTeam3S/3Si.org
Vendor approved brake discounter; also,
parts for Toyota, Audi, BMW,
Mercedes, Porsche, SAAB, Volvo.
Where do you buy YOUR brakes? I can
help...asking is free! :)
"If its in stock, we have
it!"
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 11:49:58
-0500 (CDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Re: Team3S: Driveshaft work
Good points.
The joints he gets
aftermarket should be greasable as well..and I find it
weird that a new shaft
would fail after a year (normally).
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 10:54:40
-0600
From: "Curtis McConnell" <
Curtis.McConnell@Pulte.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Driveshaft work
I'm not sure but I am thinking all of them.
There are 6? (guessing)
Curtis McConnell
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 09:58:11
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Driveshaft work
Sounds like the vibration isolation around the carrier
bearings --- mine
moves around
easily also [ no play in the U-joints ].
The carrier bearings are
replaceable but the
U-joints are not. Carrier
bearings are $55 or so from Rockville Mitsu and
should
be available from
any dealer.
Is there any play in the
U-joints.
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 11:05:58
-0600
From: "Curtis McConnell" <
Curtis.McConnell@Pulte.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Driveshaft work
They dealer wanted $70 for the carrier
bearings. I can't tell if there
is play in the U-joints. All I can see under
there is a rubber boot that
the driveshaft runs though. The dealer told me it
is much more likely to
be the U-joints than the bearings.
Curtis
McConnell
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 12:06:08
-0500 (CDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Driveshaft work
Really..that usually the other way around,
that the floating carrier gets
sloppy before the Ujoints.
Don't miss
FMax's notes on a good dealer to buy from.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 12:13:25
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Braking Problem
I don't think having the same part number
proves anything about the source
of the rotors. There are some brake
pads from different sources that follow
the same part numbering scheme.
This is not coincidental, it allows
different manufacturers to follow the
same part description.
Porterfield doesn't want you to know the source of
their rotors because then
you might go there directly.
There was a
period of time where this list was full of complaints
about
brand-new-in-the-box Porterfield-supplied rotors that were
warped. They had
a quality control problem which they have since
addressed. Maybe they just
check them before they ship them out.
Maybe they also changed their source,
but they didn't change their part
number.
Chuck Willis
"It still amazes me Porterfield uses exactly
the same part numbers that
AutoSpecialty uses for the PowerStop line for our
cars. What are the odds?
Wait, I can tell you: 17,576,000 : 1 (assuming upper
and lower case are
interchangable and the part number has 3 letters and 3
numbers). What is
even more amazing is that there is a possible 4 sources
**usually** for the
rotors. I wonder what the unusual ones
are?"
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 12:26:01
-0500
From: "Jim Fay" <
jfay@tssu.com>
Subject: Team3S: Drive
shaft
>The vibration occurs at about 3-5k RPM's really in
any
gear.
Since drive shaft speed is directly related to vehicle
speed, it sounds as
if the vibration may be in the engine or
transmission. Since it occurs in
all gears in a limited RPM range, I
would be tempted to look a little
further than the drive
shaft.
>After getting under the car the driveshaft will move about an
inch
up and down/side to side.
Sounds like it needs bearings
also.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 12:11:40
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Braking Problem
At 04:49 PM 7/28/2003 -0000, Jeff Lucius
wrote:
>Rich,
>
>OK, you are confusing me. Are you saying
AutoSpecialty's PowerStop rotors
are now "scrap steel rotors" or that
Porterfield's are? In either case,
what is your source of
information?
Geoff's cryptic message:
"Welcome to the world of "scrap
steel rotors"."
He knows everything, so I thought he knew what he was
talking about. You
don't mean he was (gasp!)
wrong?
Rich
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 12:24:36
-0500 (CDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Braking Problem
> Porterfield doesn't want you to know the
source of their rotors because
then you might go there directly.
-
---
Heck, I don't even know, nor care as long as the quality remains
high.
Members here have been part of making sure it stays high.
>
There was a period of time where this list was full of complaints
about
brand-new-in-the-box Porterfield-supplied rotors that were
warped. They had
a quality control problem which they have since
addressed. Maybe they just
check them before they ship them out.
Maybe they also changed their source,
but they didn't change their part
number.
- ---
I spose if they were ISO 9xxx, they would change revisions
and keep the
same main PN, but why bother. ;)
I believe the
proper term for why many manufacturers kinds look the same for
PN, is the
FMSI number/designation.
> Chuck Willis
>
> "It still
amazes me Porterfield uses exactly the same part numbers that
AutoSpecialty
uses for the PowerStop line for our cars. What are the odds?
Wait, I can tell
you: 17,576,000 : 1 (assuming upper and lower case are
interchangable and the
part number has 3 letters and 3 numbers). What is
even more amazing is that
there is a possible 4 sources **usually** for the
rotors. I wonder what the
unusual ones are?"
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 11:27:26
-0600
From: "Curtis McConnell" <
Curtis.McConnell@Pulte.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Drive shaft
It is a kormex transmission that is about 2 years
old. The engine has
about 7k mi on it since it was rebuilt. Any ideas as to
what to look for
if it is a transmission/engine related issue?
Curtis
McConnell
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 11:39:18
-0600
From: "Curtis McConnell" <
Curtis.McConnell@Pulte.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Drive shaft
I will try it out tonight and post again
tomorrow.
I know that when it starts to vibrate and I put the clutch in
the
vibration goes away. Sometimes it will continue to vibrate to
redline
but not every time.
Curtis McConnell
***
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 12:45:03
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Drive shaft
Have you ever replaced the clutch? If so,
did you have the flywheel faced
off? The engine and transmission sound
too new to be causing that kind of
problem, unless the rebuilds of
either/both were botched.
Common things are common. From what I
read here, the carrier bearings are a
common problem.
Chuck
Willis
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 12:41:52
-0500 (CDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Drive shaft
Hmm..so it only vibes at certain RPMs, under
load?
Or will it do it while coating with the clutch engaged as
well?
If it only does it under load or coasting, Id say
Ujoints.
If it does it under load and coasting..Id say carrier
bearings.
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 17:48:52
+0000
From:
anscray@comcast.netSubject: RE:
Team3S: Drive shaft
I just went through this less than 6 months
ago. Bearings and U-Joint bad.
Vibration in all gears especially
between 1K-3500RPM. Lucky for me the
dealer
had already quoted me on
a price to just replace the U-Joint and bearings b4
he
found out that the
driveshaft had to be completely replaced. So, Satan ate
most of the
difference out of their labor, due to mis-quoting and
the
promised
time-line of vehicle return . Still cost me a
little under 1k dollars. I
don't know how bad yours is but my vibration
came about over night. One day
everything normal, the next it was like
a small earthquake during
acceleration.
I hope for the sake of
your wallet that you can find a way to repair the
U-
Joint. Good
Luck and let us know what you work out..
Scott
94 VR4
***
Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 11:50:53
-0600
From: "Curtis McConnell" <
Curtis.McConnell@Pulte.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Drive shaft
Hopefully that is it. What I was hoping to do is,
take the car to a shop
have them replace the bearings, if that didn't work
replace the
U-joints. If the problem is still there, e-mail you guys
again.
I can't image it is either the tranny/engine since the tranny was
new
from kormex and the car runs very strong other than this
issue.
Curtis McConnell
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 11:56:23
-0600
From: "Curtis McConnell" <
Curtis.McConnell@Pulte.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Drive shaft
I have a shop that says they can repair the
u-joints.....should I be
afraid of that?
It only happens under
acceleration, weather it is light or WOT. If I put
in the clutch it goes
away.
If the driveshaft must be replaced I will go with a PST carbon
fiber
one, but the car will be down for a long time.
Curtis
McConnell
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 13:20:18
-0500 (CDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Drive shaft
> I have a shop that says they can repair the
u-joints.....should I be
> afraid of that?
- ---
Not at all, there's
NOTHING special about any vehicles joints, just that
the manufacturer chose
not to allow a simple joint replacement as an
option later in life. Its
too time consuming and requires tools more
complicated than a socket
wrench..so why allow your known LCD (lowest com.
denominator) service dork to
do it when a $2 mistake will kill someone.
> It only happens under
acceleration, weather it is light or WOT. If I put
> in the clutch it goes
away.
- ---
Used to be that meant Joints, but with -2- carrier bearings to
diagnose,
its still muddy.
- ---
www.SpeedToys.com: Geoff Mohler
orders@speedtoys.comTeam3S/3Si.org
Vendor approved brake discounter; also,
parts for Toyota, Audi, BMW,
Mercedes, Porsche, SAAB, Volvo.
Where do you buy YOUR brakes? I can
help...asking is free! :)
"If its in stock, we have
it!"
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------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V2
#214
***************************************