Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Friday, July 25
2003 Volume 02 : Number
211
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 23 Jul 2003 18:05:32 -0700 (PDT)
From:
dark@non-corporeal.netSubject: Re:
Team3S: Shops..
On Wed, 23 Jul 2003, Michael Gerhard wrote:
>
> >Vacaville Dodge. While the owner seems to be a good guy there is a
service
> >rep and manager who are less than helpful. In any case, the
overall
> >impression I get is that they do not know much about the
Stealth's and
> >would like me to not take it there.
>
>
Thanks for the heads up. I live in Martinez and have taken my car to
>
Concord Mitsubishi. The original owner (a friend of mine) had the 60k
>
service done there and I had the 90k service done there as well. They did
> my transfer case recall. I asked them how many VR4's they had seen
prior to
> mine (during the recall) and they had done almost a dozen.
Thus, I'm
> thinking that they at least know what these cars are. I have
been buying a
> few parts from them as well. I'm thinking that if I'm
making a major
> purchase of parts I'll probably check with one of the
"good guy" dealers on
> line to get a discount price.
>
>
I'm wondering where you live in the area. I'd like to invite you to join
> several of us to a track event. I've been running mostly in the High
I am in Vacaville. As for the events, I can handle my car, but doubt I
could offer much competition. Though it would be fun to go.
>
Performance Driving School events at Thunderhill (
www.thunderhill.com )
> where the
provide what I think of as the best instruction of any event. The
I have
been thinking of taking a high performance course at Infineon, does
anyone
reccomend it? I haven't made any choices yet, but I would like to
be able to
drive it like I mean it.
> instructors are SCCA race drivers
(volunteers) and for $195 we get six 20
> minute sessions, lunch, and a
T-shirt (woo hoo). I've liked the Thunderhill
> track as it is fun and
safe, very few things to run into. If you are
> interested I'd be glad to
give you more information about how it works and
> what I've learned at
the schools.
>
--------------------------------------------------------------
> Michael
A. Gerhard 1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Pearl
White
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 17:40:44
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: [mi3si] clutch pedal has no pressure ... I am $70 0 poorer, but
at least its fixed :)
John to be honest the labor was damn high, I have
local place that
specializes in High performance cars (particularly DSM's)
and they charge
73.50 to customers and I pay 70 (been friends with the 2 of
the owner's for
years now). The hose sounds like you got focking
robbed, everything else
sounds like par for the course....
Russ
F
CT
93 VR-4
DR 650's and supporting mods (2 weeks and counting till
turn key)
- -----Original Message-----
From: Ioan Raicu
[mailto:iraicu@cs.wayne.edu]
Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2003 5:35 PM
To:
mi3si@yahoogroups.com;
'Team3S'
Subject: Team3S: RE: [mi3si] clutch pedal has no pressure ... I am
$700
poorer, but at least its fixed :)
Well, I fixed the car at
the closest shop I found. The parts that were
replaced were the slave
clutch cylinder and some hose. The number of
labor hours were 4.5 hours
@ $88 / hour, $85 for the hose, $140 for the
slave clutch cylinder, so other
fee of $20, they used my oil, and
taxes... so the total cost comes out to
something just under $700. This
sounds like a rip off to me, but I
needed the car ASAP, so I didn't want
to bother with fixing it myself (would
take too long), and I just took
it at the fist shop I found (some gas station
:(. The car is already
fixed, so I have no choice but to pay these
guys, but I am just
wondering by how much I overpaid my little
adventure!
John Raicu
94 Yellow TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 21:08:38
-0400
From: "Dennis r. Ninneman" <
dninneman@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: spark plug hear range question
What this really calls for is
a broad based discussion of the theory
behind plug heat ranges. Those
less schooled in this could benefit.
Why run different heat range
plugs?
Dennis -==- Philly
anthonymelillo wrote:
>I am
looking to change the plugs in my 1997 VR-4, and am looking around at
options. I was told that because of the open air filter,
>and the
JetChip ECU, I could "use a plug one range colder to help better dissipate heat
from the combustion chamber. If a spark
>plug is to hot it will not
dissipate the heat properly and could cause engine damage. The correct heat
range spark plug will assist
>the vehicle in burning the fuel more
efficiently."
>
>Does this sound like good advice ? Any help
is greatly appreciated. Thanks
>
>My car can be found here
with list of mods:
>Anthony Melillo
>1997 VR-4, Firestorm
Red
>http://home.sprintmail.com/~anthonymelillo/3000gt.htm
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 18:31:18
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Fw: Team3S:
spark plug hear range question
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
To:
"Dennis r. Ninneman" <
dninneman@comcast.net>
Sent:
Wednesday, July 23, 2003 6:30 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: spark plug hear range
question
> When you're running a high performance engine the tip of
the plug can
> get hot and cause preignition --- cooler plugs have less
electrode exposed
> and thus don't get as hot. If they don't get hot
enough they will condense
> hydrocarbons on the tip and foul out. Kind of
a balancing act to get it
> right. It's easier if you have a race only car
because the car is only
> exposed to a high performance environment. A
heavily modded street
> car must be able to handle both the daily driving
and performance
> applications.
>
> Jim Berry
>
=================================================
> ----- Original Message
-----
> From: "Dennis r. Ninneman" <
dninneman@comcast.net>
>
>
> > What this really calls for is a broad based discussion of
the theory
> > behind plug heat ranges. Those less schooled in
this could benefit.
> > Why run different heat range
plugs?
> >
> > Dennis -==- Philly
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 20:45:06
-0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: spark plug hear range question
> What this really calls
for is a broad based discussion of the theory
> behind plug heat
ranges. Those less schooled in this could benefit.
> Why run
different heat range plugs?
I think there's already quite a bit of info
in the List Archives about plugs
and heat ranges, but I can quick recap the
basics...
Essentially the heat range of a plug defines how exposed the
insulator
projection is in the cylinder, and how much heat the plug can
transfer into
the head and into the coolant.
If you run too hot of a
range for your engine's operating characteristics
then the plug will glow hot
and be a source of preignition and potentially
detonation.
If you run
too cold of a range, the plug itself will not get hot enough to
burn away
carbon deposits and it will foul out early and you'll have
missing
spark.
The general guide that NGK recommends is to go one
number colder for each
100 horsepower over stock that you are running.
That's a pretty general
guide, so really only experience can tell you what
actually works in your
car. For maximum power, you'd want to go with
the coldest plug you can that
doesn't foul out - that would prevent as much
preignition and detonation as
possible while still providing good plug
life.
So far one number cooler is working great in my car. Some
people are
running two numbers cooler. I have heard mixed results with
three numbers
cooler.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 19:06:41
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
spark plug hear range question
Is your car a daily driver or more of a
weekend warrior ????
Jim
Berry
==========================================
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@comcast.net>
>
> So far one number cooler is working great in my car. Some people
are
> running two numbers cooler. I have heard mixed results with
three numbers
> cooler.
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 21:20:49
-0500 (CDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RE: [mi3si] clutch pedal has no pressure ... I am $700 poorer, but
at least its fixed :)
No.,but the local labor force and the local land
rates in Elbbowpit, CA
are not at the level as they are in the LA Basin, or
the SF Bay Area
either.
If it was pure market, there'd be a lot of
really wealthy shop owners with
really clean shops.
Reality
check..there aint...because the raw-materials (parts) ARE the same
prices,
you could then argue that the "inflated" costs to the consumer
would generate
massive margins for the shopkeepers...that aint the way it
is.
On Wed,
23 Jul 2003, fastmax wrote:
> I think you'll find the labor rate in
West Elbowpit California isn't at the $100 level.
> It's more a matter of
whatever the market will bear --- the service department is a
> major
profit center for the dealer and if the customer is willing to pay the
price
> that's where it'll stay. I don't go to a dealer unless I get my
50% employee discount
> [ my son-in-law works for a dealer ]
>
> Jim Berry
>
================================================
> ----- Original Message
-----
> From: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
>
To: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
> Cc: "Wieschhaus,
Brandon Kenneth (UMR-Student)" <
bwish@umr.edu>; <
iraicu@cs.wayne.edu>; <
mi3si@yahoogroups.com>;
"Team3S"
> <
Team3S@team3s.com>
> Sent:
Wednesday, July 23, 2003 5:05 PM
> Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: [mi3si] clutch
pedal has no pressure ... I am $700 poorer, but at least its fixed :)
>
>
> Whos the crook?
>
> The guy tryin to stay in
business, or the landlord jackin up rents, the
> elec and gas co jackin up
rates, the state spending money like a drunken
> sailor during the stock
boom (based on short-term cap gains income)
> instead of planning solely
on the standard reliable tax base?
>
> Hmm?
>
> On
Wed, 23 Jul 2003, fastmax wrote:
>
> > Down here in Southern
Californey the dealers are up to about $100 per
> > hour --- damn
crooks !!!! Why, back when I was a kid --- before they
>
> invented flat rate and cars ยทยทยทยท
> >
>
> Jim Berry
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 21:25:52
-0500 (CDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Shops..
IMHO, the schools are nice, but at the cost..youre
better off with the
NASA type track days (The Thill school is VERY
affordable, the Jim Russel
types are very expensive).
Trade technical
expertise that you'll be lucky to absorb in one day..with
very affordable
lengthy track time where you can absorb the same pricibles
at a slower
rate..and apply them as required.when youre ready for them.
On Wed, 23
Jul 2003
dark@non-corporeal.net
wrote:
> On Wed, 23 Jul 2003, Michael Gerhard wrote:
>
>
>
> > >Vacaville Dodge. While the owner seems to be a good guy
there is a service
> > >rep and manager who are less than helpful.
In any case, the overall
> > >impression I get is that they do not
know much about the Stealth's and
> > >would like me to not take it
there.
> >
> > Thanks for the heads up. I live in Martinez
and have taken my car to
> > Concord Mitsubishi. The original owner (a
friend of mine) had the 60k
> > service done there and I had the 90k
service done there as well. They did
> > my transfer case recall. I
asked them how many VR4's they had seen prior to
> > mine (during the
recall) and they had done almost a dozen. Thus, I'm
> > thinking that
they at least know what these cars are. I have been buying a
> > few
parts from them as well. I'm thinking that if I'm making a major
> >
purchase of parts I'll probably check with one of the "good guy" dealers on
> > line to get a discount price.
> >
> > I'm
wondering where you live in the area. I'd like to invite you to join
>
> several of us to a track event. I've been running mostly in the High
>
> I am in Vacaville. As for the events, I can handle my car, but
doubt I
> could offer much competition. Though it would be fun to
go.
>
> > Performance Driving School events at Thunderhill (
www.thunderhill.com )
> > where
the provide what I think of as the best instruction of any event. The
>
> I have been thinking of taking a high performance course at Infineon,
does
> anyone reccomend it? I haven't made any choices yet, but I would
like to
> be able to drive it like I mean it.
>
> >
instructors are SCCA race drivers (volunteers) and for $195 we get six 20
> > minute sessions, lunch, and a T-shirt (woo hoo). I've liked the
Thunderhill
> > track as it is fun and safe, very few things to run
into. If you are
> > interested I'd be glad to give you more
information about how it works and
> > what I've learned at the
schools.
> >
--------------------------------------------------------------
> >
Michael A. Gerhard 1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4
Pearl White
- ---
www.SpeedToys.com: Geoff Mohler
orders@speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 22:53:57
-0400
From: James Matherly <
jemather@umich.edu>
Subject: Team3S:
Clutch replacement options
Okay, so I got talked into drag racing at the
Shootout on Sunday, and
in exchange for burning the hell out of my clutch, I
ran a
14.336@94mph, which I don't think is
terrible for my first time at the
strip with a 132k mi, 11 year old
car.
After this run, though, I got out and smelled nothing but burnt
clutch.
The car is still driveable (it made it the 260mi home
and is still
being daily driven), but "ginger" is the operative
word.
I'm looking into what I want to do as far as replacing the clutch,
and
I was wondering if there were any prevailing opinions. My car is
(and
is going to be) tracked one or two times a year at most, and the rest
of the time will be on the street, and possibly auto-xing once in a
while. At most, I will probably look to put down about 450-475hp in
the foreseeable future. With this in mind, I went looking. One
clutch
keeps catching my eye - the RPS Max Carbon-Carbon clutch.
I
like this setup a lot because (a) it comes with a new, lighter
flywheel,
something I'd probably want to do anyways (b) its designed to
be slipped,
which is something I like to do, because I my transmission
and I are
friends, and I want to keep it that way. (c) it can be
rebuilt for $200, if
I ever somehow manage to burn it out without
melting the bell housing or
something, and (d) its carbon-carbon, and
that's cool to be able to tell
people.
I talked to MVP Motorsports, and they said that such a setup is
probably overkill for a street car, but the more I think about it, the
more I think that spending the extra $600 or so (the difference between
the C-C and an RPS Street clutch/lightened flywheel) might be worth it
for all of those pluses. Any thoughts?
Regards,
Ted
Matherly
jemather@umich.edu'92
Stealth TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 22:29:30
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: tracks
>> > instructors are SCCA race drivers
(volunteers) and for $195 we get six
20
>> > minute sessions,
lunch, and a T-shirt (woo hoo).
At Midamerica Motorplex in Council
Bluffs, Iowa, for $50 you get to run all
day Tuesday, from 9 am until
sundown, on what is essentially an empty
track. Maybe six other cars in your
group are on track at a time. The most
cars we ever had was 20 total, the
fewest was 8. We run two groups --
rookies and hot shoes -- for 20 minutes
per session. That's about 18
sessions (9 am-9 pm), if you can stand it (one
day, before we did sessions,
a Ferrari 348 just ran and ran and ran, stopping
only to pee. He musta
cranked off 100 laps).
We are arranging to get
instructors, too. They cost about $100 per day, and
one can be shared among
several students, or you can take one for yourself
exclusively.
The
really wierd part is that most of the cars in our little club are
3000GTs and
Stealths. We have M3s, 911s, Z06es, Miatas, Mustangs, Camaros
and other
assorted iron, but there are more of us at the ROWG lunch on
Wednesdays (4)
than there are of them. We don't always get everybody to the
track, but one
Tuesday 3 3000GTs showed up.
Our next event is Tuesday, August 12. Yer
all invited, you folks in the
Midwest.
Rich/slow old
poop.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 20:57:03
-0700 (PDT)
From: John Christian <
jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Transfer case recall Leaky Oil
Hi all,
Yes, today I received a recall notice from Daimler
Chrysler for the transfer
case. Rich Merritt please
note this is about:
"Oil leakage
from the transfer case on 'my Stealth'
may cause the transfer case to
fail. This could cause
the wheels to lock up and result in an
accident
without warning."
Wonder if the Mitsu cars got
recalled too.
Be of good cheer,
John
=====
Please respond to
jczoom@iname.com'93 TT with Porsche
brakes and Supra TT rotors
12.4@109MPH
5/97 almost stock
http://www.geocities.com/jczoom_619***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 22:55:20
-0500 (CDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Transfer case recall Leaky Oil
Ya..wasnt that
last summer>
On Wed, 23 Jul 2003, John Christian wrote:
> Hi
all,
>
> Yes, today I received a recall notice from
Daimler
> Chrysler for the transfer case. Rich Merritt
please
> note this is about:
> "Oil leakage from the transfer
case on 'my Stealth'
> may cause the transfer case to fail. This
could cause
> the wheels to lock up and result in an accident
>
without warning."
>
> Wonder if the Mitsu cars got
recalled too.
>
> Be of good cheer,
>
John
>
> =====
> Please respond to
jczoom@iname.com> '93 TT with Porsche
brakes and Supra TT rotors
>
12.4@109MPH 5/97 almost stock
>
http://www.geocities.com/jczoom_619-
---
www.SpeedToys.com: Geoff Mohler
orders@speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 21:18:08
-0700
From: "Andrew D. Woll" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: battery drain / charging system problem
Actually, a 50 amp hour
battery (which is pretty common) would discharge
completely after 500 hours
at a 1/10 of an amp drain. 500 hours is about 20
days, but long before
the entire battery is drained, the battery will be so
discharged that it will
not turn a starter over. Just a guess but I would
estimate that at
1/10A drain the battery would be good to go, although
partially discharged,
for 10-14 days. After that, with over half the charge
gone, I would doubt it
would have the ability to turn the starter, although
the headlights might
light.
Andy
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of fastmax
Sent: Wednesday, July
23, 2003 5:46 PM
To: Jim Matthews; Team3S
Subject: Re: Team3S: battery
drain / charging system problem
At 1/10 of an amp the battery should
last for a couple of years.
You're probably looking at the radio memory and
the security
system. The ECU must have some activity
also.
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 21:46:59
-0700
From: "Ken Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: RE: [mi3si] clutch pedal has no pressure ... I am $700 poorer, but at
least its fixed :)
Hi John,
Sorry to hear of your problems.
Anyway, the slave cylinder from one of the
discounts shops is about
$40. The hose is probably $15-$25. Labor should
be about 2
hours.
The good news is that it is fixed! Say hi to your
brother.
- -Ken
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Ioan
Raicu" <
iraicu@cs.wayne.edu>
To: <
mi3si@yahoogroups.com>; "'Team3S'"
<
Team3S@team3s.com>
Sent:
Wednesday, July 23, 2003 2:35 PM
Subject: Team3S: RE: [mi3si] clutch pedal
has no pressure ... I am $700
poorer, but at least its fixed
:)
> Well, I fixed the car at the closest shop I found. The
parts that were
> replaced were the slave clutch cylinder and some
hose. The number of
> labor hours were 4.5 hours @ $88 / hour, $85
for the hose, $140 for the
> slave clutch cylinder, so other fee of $20,
they used my oil, and
> taxes... so the total cost comes out to something
just under $700. This
> sounds like a rip off to me, but I needed
the car ASAP, so I didn't want
> to bother with fixing it myself (would
take too long), and I just took
> it at the fist shop I found (some gas
station :(. The car is already
> fixed, so I have no choice but to
pay these guys, but I am just
> wondering by how much I overpaid my little
adventure!
>
> John Raicu
> 94 Yellow
TT
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ioan Raicu
[mailto:iraicu@cs.wayne.edu]
> Sent: Sunday, July 20, 2003 10:42
PM
> To:
mi3si@yahoogroups.com;
'Team3S'
> Subject: [mi3si] clutch pedal has no pressure
>
>
Hello again,
>
> ...
>
> Most likely, one of the clutch
cylinders (master/slave) was leaking, and
> it just gave up, but I don't
understand how could it happen so
> drastically and quick, in a matter of
60 seconds, it went from normal to
> no pressure at all. If one of
these cylinders is leaking and I fill up
>
> ...
>
>
John Raicu
> 94 Yellow TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 07:22:32
+0100
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: battery drain / charging system problem
(new battery)
Test
1 (alarm on):
after sitting for two weeks, not enough power to unlock doors
with fob
Test 2 (alarm on):
12.8 VDC evening
12.4 VDC
morning
Test 3 (alarm off):
12.83 VDC evening
12.63 VDC
morning
12.54 VDC evening
12.45 VDC morning
I haven't measured
current with the alarm on because I'm afraid enabling the
alarm will blow my
meter (power locks may exceed 10A unfused limit). Either
way, the
battery is discharging too quickly even with it off, so there is
still
another problem. Has anyone else measured draw with everything off,
or
know of a published spec?
- - --
Jim Matthews - Yorkshire,
England
mailto:jim@the-matthews.comhttp://www.the-matthews.com
*** Team3S, 3SI #0030, GTOUK #155 ***
http://www.the-matthews.com/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R Mk1
(1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer, Blitz Super Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery
Redline synth
fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff= SPHvy)
PF cryoed rotors, R4S pads, SS
lines w/SBs, red calipers
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171
mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno
Session: 367 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 09:30:46
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: battery drain / charging system problem
Jim, in my Camaro the
batt is drained within 2 weeks due to the amp I have
in the trunk. It is
remotely switched on but there is just too much drain
from the
batt.
My solution was that I got a 4-pole battery (Banner Uni-Bull) where
I do
have all the unused accessories on one post that is secured with a 100A
switchable fuse. I then can only pop-up the hood and switch it off. With
this, the car cranked over after 4 weeks without any problem.
What
batt did you get in UK ? Maybe the charging system is not in a good
shape
(14.4V when the batt is not fully charged and engien running).
There are
no values for the amperes that shall flow when everything is off.
Sometimes
a single old relais of an alarm system may be faulty and drains
current when
it shouldn't.
The normal meters can measure 20A easily. So what you can
do is put the
ampere meter in between the minus pole of the batt and the
connector. Then
set everything to the status where you want to let sit the
car (you can
have the power locks on before putting the meter in between),
Pull the
fuses one by one to find out what part is responsible for the
drainage.
I bet that it is some current draining over bad ground
connections or
something like that.
Roger G.
93 & 96 3000GT
TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 03:41:32
-0400
From: Darren Schilberg <
dschilberg@spamcop.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: spark plug hear range question
And if you don't run colder
range plugs on a higher hp engine and/or run too
much boost then your EGTs
get way up there and you end up "dieseling" or
compressing the air/fuel
mixture into an explosion (like a Diesel engine)
without a spark which, as
you can tell, is not ideal for a car that is
supposed to run with a
spark. This can then melt a piston or cause the car to
jump its
timing. This happened to a friend of mine on his VR-4 -- too much
boost due to his ego of trying to catch a car and it cost about $8k for an
engine rebuild.
- --Flash!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 07:57:08
-0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: RE: [mi3si] clutch pedal has no pressure ... I am $700 poorer, but at
least its fixed :)
<<< The car is already fixed, so I have no
choice but to pay these guys, but I am just
wondering by how much I overpaid
my little adventure!>>
I don't want to be the bearer of bad
news. But I changed my clutch slave cylinder myself. It costed me
under $50 in parts, and took me about 40 minutes total from the time I opened
the hood until the time I shut it.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 08:23:40
-0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Transfer case recall Leaky Oil
I, too, got the
transfer case recall on my 91 TT. Actually, I just got my second
reminder. My car was part of the very first leaky transfer case recall
back in the early 90's and I had the transfer case replaced. I've done a
good bit to my car since then, including replacing the downpipe with the Alamo
one that cost me over $550. Therein lies the dilemma. I don't
trust ANY dealer mechanic to work on my car. They've never given me a
reason to trust them. They just manage to screw it up all the time which
either ends up costing me more money and aggravation (try telling the dealer
they screwed up some time), or time, money and aggravation as I myself try to
fix the problems the dealer mechanics created. So, I am VERY reluctant to
take my car in for the transfer case recall primarily (1) because the
dealerships are flat rate, (2) because they don't make no money doin' recall
work, (3) because I already had the transfer case recall work done years ago (it
took the deale!
r 4 times to get it right) and (4) because I have never
had a positive experience at a Dodge dealership. In fact, they tried 3
times to reseal my transfer case under the first recall and failed. The 4th time
they just replaced it while also managing to destroy the flex coupler on my
downpipe. I also had the dealer repaint the front end a few years back
after a run-in with a piece of highway rubber, and they painted the fricken
thing the wrong color! I had to tell them that there were 3 different
paint formulas for "Pearl White."
<<Hi all,
Yes,
today I received a recall notice from Daimler
Chrysler for the transfer
case. >>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 13:42:54
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: spark plug hear range question
>> What this really
calls for is a broad based discussion
>> of the theory behind plug heat
ranges. Those less
>> schooled in this could benefit.
Some technical info regarding spark plugs, including heat ranges, heat
transfer, and factors affecting plug temperature, is available on my web page
below.
http://www.stealth316.com/2-sparkplugtech.htmJeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Dennis r. Ninneman" <
dninneman@comcast.net>
To:
"anthonymelillo" <
anthonymelillo@sprintmail.com>
Cc:
"Team 3S List Submissions" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, July 23, 2003 7:08 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: spark plug hear range
question
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 13:48:23
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RE: [mi3si] clutch pedal has no pressure ... I am $700 poorer, but
at least its fixed :)
John,
I am not trying to make you feel worse
than you probably already do so the information below is just for future
reference and for others.
It is unlikely *both* the clutch hose and
release cylinder failed. Neither part is a regular maintenance item (I think),
meaning they are replaced when they fail, not at regular intervals. That means
the shop (likely) replaced an item that was in good working condition. You are
entitled to all replaced parts so hopefully you are in posession of either a
spare clutch hose or a spare release cylinder.
I have instructions for
replacing the clutch hose on my web page below.
http://www.stealth316.com/2-clutchhose.htmThese
instructions also could be used to replace the release cylinder. I paid ~$10 for
the clutch hose, MR151526, from Tallahassee Mitsubishi, and about $2 for the
brake fluid (no need for high-performance fluid in the clutch hydraulic system).
Other members have quoted $40-50 for the release cylinder (Tall Mitsu sells
MB670290 for AWD cars manufactured after 9102.2 for $48.55 over the phone). I
can say it is not a particular hard or time-consuming effort to replace either
(having removed the release cylinder during transaxle removal) if you have the
right tools ($600 buys a lot of tools).
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Ioan Raicu" <
iraicu@cs.wayne.edu>
To: <
mi3si@yahoogroups.com>; "'Team3S'"
<
Team3S@team3s.com>
Sent:
Wednesday, July 23, 2003 3:35 PM
Subject: Team3S: RE: [mi3si] clutch pedal
has no pressure ... I am $700 poorer, but at least its fixed :)
Well,
I fixed the car at the closest shop I found. The parts that
were
replaced were the slave clutch cylinder and some hose. The number
of
labor hours were 4.5 hours @ $88 / hour, $85 for the hose, $140 for
the
slave clutch cylinder, so other fee of $20, they used my oil,
and
taxes... so the total cost comes out to something just under $700.
This
sounds like a rip off to me, but I needed the car ASAP, so I didn't
want
to bother with fixing it myself (would take too long), and I just
took
it at the fist shop I found (some gas station :(. The car is
already
fixed, so I have no choice but to pay these guys, but I am
just
wondering by how much I overpaid my little adventure!
John
Raicu
94 Yellow TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 13:49:41
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: battery drain / charging system problem
>> Actually, a
50 amp hour battery (which is pretty
>> common) would discharge
completely after 500 hours
>> at a 1/10 of an amp drain. 500
hours is about 20
>> days, but long before the entire battery is
drained,
>> the battery will be so discharged that it will
not
>> turn a starter over.
Actually, the the industry capacity
rating of a battery in amp-hours is determined using constant-current discharge
over an extended time period with a drawdown to about 10.2 volts, not 0 volts.
However, many electronic devices may not operate correctly or at all if voltage
drops too much below 11.5 or 12. I would guess a starter might turn at only 10.2
volts but not quickly.
More info on batteries:
http://www.batteryfaq.org/http://www.stealth316.com/2-dynabatt.htmJeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Andrew D. Woll" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
To: "fastmax"
<
fastmax@cox.net>; "Jim Matthews"
<
jim@the-matthews.com>; "Team3S"
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, July 23, 2003 10:18 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: battery drain /
charging system problem
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 14:04:39
+0000
From:
mjannusch@comcast.netSubject: Re:
Team3S: Clutch replacement options
> One clutch keeps catching my eye
- the RPS Max
> Carbon-Carbon clutch.
On 3si.org some people are
reporting the discs exploding and destroying the
transmission
bellhousing. I'd wait a while if you really want to go that
route so
RPS can get the bugs worked out. The other complaint is that they
are
noisy and make nasty grinding noises.
I have the RPS Turbo Carbon Claw
stage 3 with 6-puck ceramic friction plate
and sprung hub. It works
really good at the track, is a little touchy on the
street. Longevity
is supposed to be around 10,000 miles so that's not a great
selling point
for it.
Up to about 450hp the ACT clutch is a decent choice. You
should also look at
South Bend Clutches - they are getting involved with 3S
cars and seemed very
interested in helping us out at the National
Gathering. They were actually
there - no other clutch vendor
was.
http://www.dxdracingclutches.com/-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
> One clutch keeps catching my eye - the
RPS Max
> Carbon-Carbon clutch.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 10:20:50
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
'Dream Race Week' Bay Area gathering update...
After we discussed it on
both lists last week, I've been speaking to NASA
about putting together a
package of road racing, autocross, and drag racing
for us for next
year. NASA NorCal head Jerry Kunzman was pretty excited about
helping
us organize our "Dream Race Week" Gathering at Sears Point and Laguna
Seca on
adjacent weekends. But he was SO "into" trying to accomodate us,
he
neglected to pay attention to my request for available dates for NEXT
year.
He went and *changed* the NASA weekend dates for THIS year and set up
two
*full* adjacent weekends in November-- Nov 22/23 at Infineon (Sears
Point) and
Nov 29/30 at Laguna Seca!!!
I need to know if we have
enough interest for THIS year to try to set up a
discount schedule for those
dates. If there are only a few cars, our normal
"NASA-sanctioned club"
discount will apply, which is for every 5 signups, the
5th guy/gal is free
(for a $300 weekend rate, that means that each of the 5
will pay $240).
For enough cars, we can get a better rate, I'm sure.
For those of you
considering traveling here from other areas of the country,
our "summer
months" are more like August to October, so November is the
beginning of the
fall weather-- somewhat cooler, and perfect for racing. This
might be
an opportunity for us to do a "dry run" gathering of smaller
proportions than
our plan for next year - without the autocross and drag
portions of the
program (or we could add those if enough cars are
participating). Jerry
is going to run these new dates anyway, whether we
participate or not, and he
*will* fill it up - with or without us. But if we
want to make a
showing, now is the time to have him set aside those slots for
Team3S
racers.
Please let me know how many of you want to participate, and if
there is
lengthy discussion, lets take it over to the Team3S Racers list,
rather than
tie up the Main
List.
Best,
Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 14:22:12
-0400
From: "Williams, Tommy F" <
WilliamsTF@bernstein.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Anyone replace factory 3 pod gauges with aftermarket
I'm looking
for the best solution for aftermarket gauges without going with
the pillar
mod. Can anyone recommend a setup that will work best from both
an aesthetic
appearance and function.
Tommy
'96 VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 11:30:33
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Anyone replace factory 3 pod gauges with aftermarket
Hi Tommy,
> I'm looking for the best solution for aftermarket gauges
>
without going with the pillar mod. Can anyone recommend
> a setup that
will work best from both an aesthetic
> appearance and function.
I
think the "best" solution will likely be heavily based on personal preference,
but I can offer one solution:
http://www.team3s.com/~egross/3000GT/DefiG/page1.htmlI
replaced the stock 3 gauges in the dash with aftermarket 60mm gauges.
There is also a 4x60 pod that JAC engineering (
http://www.jac-engineering.com) makes,
which will fit on top of the center dash and provide room for a total of 7
gauges. I have one of those, too, and will get around to it eventually
:-)
- --Erik
'95 VR-4
www.team3s.com/~egross***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 14:32:00
-0400
From: "
rhoden@easystreet.com" <
rhoden@easystreet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Transfer Case Leaking After Recall
I took my car in for the
transfer case recall a few months ago and I think
it's leaking again.
For the last few weeks I've found small pools of clear
oil under the car
(obviously not the synthetic engine lubricant I use) and
I'm now noticing a
burnt oil smell. Has anyone experienced anything
similar?
Thanks,
Michael
92 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 11:33:44
-0600 (MDT)
From: Jim Floyd <
jim_floyd7@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Anyone replace factory 3 pod gauges with aftermarket
I
believe Greddy 52 mm will down in and 60 mm will install on the outside. I've
seen both and they look GOOD.
I probably think that becasue I use Greddy
myself.
- -------Original Message-------
From: "Williams, Tommy F"
<
WilliamsTF@bernstein.com>
Sent:
07/24/03 12:22 PM
To:
Team3S@team3s.comSubject: Team3S: Anyone
replace factory 3 pod gauges with aftermarket
>
> I'm looking
for the best solution for aftermarket gauges without going with
the pillar
mod. Can anyone recommend a setup that will work best from both
an aesthetic
appearance and function.
Tommy
'96 VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 15:09:26
-0400
From: "Williams, Tommy F" <
WilliamsTF@bernstein.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Anyone replace factory 3 pod gauges with aftermarket
Thanks
guys for your help and directions on this.
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Gross, Erik [mailto:erik.gross@intel.com]
Sent:
Thursday, July 24, 2003 2:31 PM
To: Williams, Tommy F; Team3S List
(E-mail)
Subject: RE: Team3S: Anyone replace factory 3 pod gauges
with
aftermarket
Hi Tommy,
> I'm looking for the best
solution for aftermarket gauges
> without going with the pillar mod. Can
anyone recommend
> a setup that will work best from both an
aesthetic
> appearance and function.
I think the "best" solution
will likely be heavily based on personal
preference, but I can offer one
solution:
http://www.team3s.com/~egross/3000GT/DefiG/page1.htmlI
replaced the stock 3 gauges in the dash with aftermarket 60mm gauges.
There
is also a 4x60 pod that JAC engineering
(
http://www.jac-engineering.com) makes,
which will fit on top of the center
dash and provide room for a total of 7
gauges. I have one of those, too,
and will get around to it eventually
:-)
- --Erik
'95 VR-4
www.team3s.com/~egross***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 15:25:00
-0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt D" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: RE: [mi3si] clutch pedal has no pressure ... I am $700 poorer, but at
least its fixed :)
I have not done this job on a turbo car, but I would
expect;
Mechanic that's done it once before - 1 hour, including
bleeding
Mechanic that's never seen a turbo before - 2 hours, tops
How
many hours does a dealer quote on this?
Skyrider
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Ioan Raicu [mailto:iraicu@cs.wayne.edu]
Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2003 4:29 PM
To: 'Wieschhaus, Brandon Kenneth
(UMR-Student)';
mi3si@yahoogroups.com;
'Team3S'
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: [mi3si] clutch pedal has no pressure ... I
am $700 poorer, but at least its fixed :)
The car got fixed in Santa
Clara, CA (Silicon Valley), so I believe the labor rate of $88 / hour is
reasonable, but I think I got robbed on the part prices, and even on the number
of hours the whole job took. I am sure I am paying way too much, but hey,
when you are stuck and you need your car fixed quick, sometimes you close your
eyes and just go ahead...
it is better than paying for rentals or towing the
car, etc...
Thanks for all who replied,
John Raicu
94
Yellow TT
- -----Original Message-----
From: Wieschhaus, Brandon
Kenneth (UMR-Student) [mailto:bwish@umr.edu]
Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2003
4:24 PM
To:
iraicu@cs.wayne.edu;
mi3si@yahoogroups.com;
Team3S
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: [mi3si] clutch pedal has no pressure ... I am
$700 poorer, but at least its fixed :)
Holy Crikey!! Well, I don't know
about the labor or your hose, but I only paid $42 for my clutch slave at my
friendly, neighborhood O'Reilly's... So, I guess you paid over 3 times the
amount for that... I would guess about the same trend for everything else... I
wouldn't think a hose would go for $85, and I always thought that labor ran
about $45-$60 an hour...
-b
- -----Original Message-----
From: Ioan
Raicu [mailto:iraicu@cs.wayne.edu]
Sent: Wed 7/23/2003 4:35 PM
To:
mi3si@yahoogroups.com; 'Team3S'
Cc:
Subject: Team3S: RE: [mi3si] clutch pedal has no pressure ... I am $700
poorer, but at least its fixed :)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 17:04:23
EDT
From:
Rod2414738@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Transfer Case Leaking After Recall
Yep, I too had my transfer case recall
applied a few months back. They just
re-sealed mine, they did not
replace the case. A few nights ago, while
flushing and bleeding my
brakes, I noticed that it is leaking again. I haven't
called the
dealer yet to see how they will try to weasel out of fixing it again.
I shouldn't say that, for a dealer, they have been pretty decent to
me. I do
have a dye kit, so if they tell me it's not the transfer case
leaking, I will
put dye in it. I don't want to touch it until they
look at it though.
- -Rod
'93 Stealth R/T TT
In a message dated
7/24/2003 1:32:49 PM Central Standard Time,
rhoden@easystreet.com
writes:
> took my car in for the transfer case recall a few months ago
and I think
> it's leaking again. For the last few weeks I've found
small pools of clear
> oil under the car (obviously not the synthetic
engine lubricant I use) and
> I'm now noticing a burnt oil smell.
Has anyone experienced anything
> similar? Thanks,
>
>
Michael
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 16:51:47
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: [mi3si] clutch pedal has no pressure ... I am $700 poorer, but
at least its fixed :)
yes, you overpaid. This is about the price I
paid for a new clutch.
Rule of Thumb => labor cost = material cost.
Call Mitsu and ask the job book entry for slave cylinder replacement - I doubt
it is 4.5 hours.
Chuck Willis
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Ioan Raicu [mailto:iraicu@cs.wayne.edu]
Sent:
Wednesday, July 23, 2003 4:35 PM
To:
mi3si@yahoogroups.com;
'Team3S'
Subject: Team3S: RE: [mi3si] clutch pedal has no pressure ... I am
$700
poorer, but at least its fixed :)
Well, I fixed the car at
the closest shop I found. The parts that were
replaced were the slave
clutch cylinder and some hose. The number of
labor hours were 4.5 hours
@ $88 / hour, $85 for the hose, $140 for the
slave clutch cylinder, so other
fee of $20, they used my oil, and
taxes... so the total cost comes out to
something just under $700. This
sounds like a rip off to me, but I
needed the car ASAP, so I didn't want
to bother with fixing it myself (would
take too long), and I just took
it at the fist shop I found (some gas station
:(. The car is already
fixed, so I have no choice but to pay these
guys, but I am just
wondering by how much I overpaid my little
adventure!
John Raicu
94 Yellow TT
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Ioan Raicu [mailto:iraicu@cs.wayne.edu]
Sent: Sunday,
July 20, 2003 10:42 PM
To:
mi3si@yahoogroups.com;
'Team3S'
Subject: [mi3si] clutch pedal has no pressure
Hello again,
...
Most likely, one of the clutch cylinders (master/slave) was
leaking, and
it just gave up, but I don't understand how could it happen
so
drastically and quick, in a matter of 60 seconds, it went from normal
to
no pressure at all. If one of these cylinders is leaking and I fill
up
...
John Raicu
94 Yellow TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 20:44:14
-0400
From: "anscray" <
anscray@comcast.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Plug gapping advice
Guys,
I am taking my 3S in for
a tune-up tomorrow. I will bring in my own
NGK(PFR6J-11) and NGK wires.
What would some of you recommend I gap my
plugs at with the following
set-up:
94 VR4 (100K)
K&N FIPK
Apexi AVC-R (set at .9
bar)
Borla Exhaust
Greddy S-Type BOV
TIA,
Scott
Wishing
there were more reliable 3S Techs in North
Florida...........
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 08:27:25
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: 'Dream Race Week' Bay Area gathering
update...
Bob:
No, I can't make a November event.
The ideal
timing would be to let us travel on Friday, Saturday and Sunday,
run an event
on Monday-Tuesday, travel on Wednesday, run another event on
Thursday-Friday,
and head home Friday night. That gives us the weekends to
travel. For folks
who are towing cars from the east coast, that works out
pretty good.
>*full* adjacent weekends in November-- Nov 22/23 at Infineon (Sears
Point)
and
>Nov 29/30 at Laguna Seca!!! I need to know if we have
enough interest for
THIS year
>To unsub: Email
majordomo@speedtoys.com with a body of
'unsubscribe 3sracers'
>"Ban low performance drivers, not high performance
cars."
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V2
#211
***************************************