Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, July 23
2003 Volume 02 : Number
210
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 22 Jul 2003 20:30:29 -0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
philip@supercar-engineering.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: I want to install a functional wing in
the
back...
Once I know I can go 200 MPH, I will. I will even go past it if
my tires
don't explode! :-)
>Hmm, don't see many wings in this
crowd..even at 277
mph!
>http://www.scta-bni.org/El_Mirage/ELM%2003/July/photos/cars_2.htm
These
cars never have to turn.
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2003 17:45:32
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Re: 3S-Racers: I want to install a functional wing in
the
back...
I tend not to take these discussions about wings, splitters and
undertrays
too seriously --- from F1 on down, race teams spend hundreds of
millions
on wind tunnel testing to improve aerodynamics. The chances of us
making
a significant improvement to the handling of our cars with a backyard
aero
device are slim. Even the simple splitters used on the Vipers are
normally
race tested by professional or near professional race teams in a
competition
environment. We only have a handful of weekend warriors on our
side.
PS --- if you guys want to sponsor a race team I'll be happy to
start a
development
program for race proven
products.
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2003 20:49:30
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
philip@supercar-engineering.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: I want to install a functional wing in
the
back...
Some emails just do not go through...
...........
Great
reply, Mike. High-speed stability. Period.
One way of assuring it is by
making the car understeer all the time. The
other way is making it
understeer only at high speeds.
You generally want the car to oversteer
on the parking lot, be neutral at
the road course and understeer at speeds
above 100 MPH. Our cars do the
exact opposite.
A rear wing is a good
solution. The wing will provide extra traction in the
rear. That will allow
more oversteer to be added at low speeds while
maintaining a neutral steer
plus more traction at the road course.
That applies to all cars: RWD,
FWD, AWD. More so to FWD and AWD because
those understeer especially severe
at low speeds.
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2003 18:04:17
-0700 (PDT)
From:
dark@non-corporeal.netSubject:
Team3S: Shops..
Vacaville Dodge. While the owner seems to be a good guy
there is a service
rep and manager who are less than helpful. In any case,
the overall
impression I get is that they do not know much about the
Stealth's and
would like me to not take it there.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2003 20:28:33
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
philip@supercar-engineering.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: I want to install a functional wing in
the
back...
Great reply, Mike. High-speed stability. Period.
One way
of assuring it is by making the car understeer all the time. The
other way
is making it understeer only at high speeds.
You generally want the car
to oversteer on the parking lot, be neutral at
the road course and
understeer at speeds above 100 MPH. Our cars do the
exact opposite.
A
rear wing is a good solution. The wing will provide extra traction in the
rear. That will allow more oversteer to be added at low speeds while
maintaining a neutral steer plus more traction at the road
course.
That applies to all cars: RWD, FWD, AWD. More so to FWD and AWD
because
those understeer especially severe at low
speeds.
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2003 18:31:12
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Re: 3S-Racers: I want to install a functional wing in
the
back...
Hmmm ---- my car exhibits slow speed understeer and seems pretty
neutral
at higher speeds. Keep in mind I make it a personal goal to avoid
sliding the
car at speeds above 120 mph
A serious problem with aero
downforce at high speeds is the fact that if the
car does get out of
shape [ sideways ] you lose a bunch of traction right
now --- aero
devices don't function well when the airflow is disrupted and
if you're
relying on it to keep you pegged to the ground you've got a big
surprise
coming.
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2003 21:50:04
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
philip@supercar-engineering.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: I want to install a functional wing in
the
back...
At 09:31 PM 7/22/2003, fastmax wrote:
>Hmmm ---- my car
exhibits slow speed understeer and seems pretty neutral
>at higher speeds.
Keep in mind I make it a personal goal to avoid sliding
>the car at
speeds above 120 mph
Same here. Same with most or all other 3S AWD
cars.
If a car goes that much sideways at high speeds, then nothing will
help it
anyway. But... planing devil's advocate... just imagine that I want
to make
my car extremely safe and add a rear wing that lifts the rear. Then
if it
goes sideways it will lose the upforce and regain traction again. Do I
want
to do it? No. I prefer some downforce. I have no plans for going
sideways
at 120 MPH just yet. Just give me some more stability (safety
margin) and I
will be happy.
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 11:29:14
-0400
From: "Sergiy Lyuznyy" <
svl@idirect.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Porting N/A intake maniford to TT model
I'm planning to install intake
maniford from N/A twin cam engine, which has
'wariable induction' feature to
my TT 94 Stealth. The low speed runners of
N/A engine are noticeable longer
than TT ones. The target is to improve low
RPM torgue (up to 1500 RPM) &
reduce turbo lag, which is noticeable with
larger turbos. But before doing
that I would like to collect the opinions on
this matter.
94 Stealth
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2003 22:30:40
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Porting N/A intake maniford to TT model
Pointless waste of time
and energy...
Some DSM guys do this, as the JDM motors have a
"Cyclone" intake, which
is essentially the same as the N/A intake
manifold... consensus is, it
is a decent mod to do, but who drives at
less than 1500 rpm??? Medium
turbo spool on DSM's is helped, but big
turbos don't benefit, and
neither do small ones...
-
-Cody
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 00:29:24
EDT
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: I want to install a functional wing in
the
back...
Hey guys-
More of a general question here-
While
cars in general are similar, without a windtunnel test, wouldnt an
aerodynamic setup on a 3000GT be a huge stab in the dark.
Military aircraft require hours upon hours of windtunnel tests before
even a
real example takes off. While a 3/S may not go mach 1, the
principals ar the
same. Both windtunnells and math formulas are
needed.
So then how do we find out the optimal setting for our
cars?
- -Mike
97 SL
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2003 23:51:10
-0500
From: "William J. Crabtree" <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Din cable to Line out harness
For those who have asked me in the
last couple of weeks how I converted my
factory head unit to use an
aftermarket amplifier, I will try to describe my
process here as best I
can.
First off, let me start by telling you that I DO NOT have the
original
stereo in my '91. Several years ago, I converted it from
having the premium
stereo from the '91 to having the premium head unit and
factory amp from a
'97. This allowed me to retain most of my steering
wheel controls and keep
a stock look stereo in my car.
(Insert soapbox
here) I hate ALL aftermarket stereos that are being made
these days.
They all look like they are made for 16 year olds boys or
sorority girls and
not adults(no offense intended to 16 year old boys and/or
sorority
girls....your tastes will change as you age). Some manufacturer
will
eventually figure this out and produce an aftermarket stereo with less
flash
and more performance, less neon and more class. That manufacturer
will
have tapped into a very large untapped target demographic.
So, for those
of you that have the early model year premium stereo systems,
you will either
have to do the conversion like I did, keep what you've got,
or go with an
aftermarket system.
In other words, this will not work if you have
THIS:
http://home.sprintmail.com/~wjcrabtree/91premstereo.jpgThis
will only work if you have this:
http://home.sprintmail.com/~wjcrabtree/99premstereo.JPGIf
you want details on how I accomplished the stereo swap, it will take
some
time. That is not the focus of my discussion here.
IF you
have already have this style stereo the process is relatively
simple,
although you will have to remove your stereo from the car, maybe
remove the
factory amp under the passenger seat and find a location for a new
amp,
mount this amp and run power to it....etc,etc,etc. This
description assumes
that you already know how to do all of those
things. The process of
creating the din-RCA plug harness is very
simple.
MATERIALS:
Wire cutters
Wire strippers (an exacto knife
is best in delicate circumstances)
Two pairs of appropriate length RCA cable
(cut off one end)
Soldering iron/solder
heat shrink and heat gun OR
electrical tape
You CAN save a little money by buying ONE extremely long
RCA (male) to RCA
(male) cable and just cutting it in half.....instead of
buying two cables
and cutting one end off of each.
THE
PROCESS:
The first (and most scary) thing you will have to do is cut the
din cable
that connects the factory head unit to the factory amp. It's
probably best
to cut it more in the middle than close to one end. This
way if you make
any mistakes or if you are not happy with your end results,
you can simply
splice the cable back together and put everything back the way
it was.
Strip the shield and plastic covering back so that you end up with
something
that looks like this:
http://home.sprintmail.com/~wjcrabtree/DIN5.JPGNote,
I did not cut mine in half as I describe above. That was
an
afterthought. ALSO The orange wire is not used, you can simply
trim this
off.
Each one of these pins:
http://home.sprintmail.com/~wjcrabtree/DIN6.JPGConnects
to a specific wire, in turn each wire feeds something different on
the
factory and or aftermarket amplifier. I determined this
by
disassembling the factory head unit and following traces on the
circuit
board, then using a voltmeter to check continuity to each of the
pin-outs on
the din cable. Here's what I came up with:
http://home.sprintmail.com/~wjcrabtree/image001.gifOr
if it helps you visualize it this way (word document):
http://home.sprintmail.com/~wjcrabtree/dindiag/Dincablepinoutpic.docNext
strip the ends on the RCA cables (just one end) so that you have
bare
wire. Separate the two wires. The center pin on an RCA is
ALWAYS the
positive (+) lead. Outer collar is negative (-).
http://home.sprintmail.com/~wjcrabtree/RCAprepped.JPGYou'll
note that I'm using a VERY short piece of very poor quality RCA
cable.
This is for example's sake only. Your cable should be long enough
to
reach the location of the aftermarket amp in your car. It should also
be
a fairly high quality cable to prevent any introduction of unnecessary
noise
into the sound system.
Now the tricky part:
You will
splice and SOLDER (DO NOT USE CRIMP OR TWIST ON CONNECTORS) each of
the
positive leads from your four RCA cables to a corresponding four wires
on
your din cable, Front right: Yellow, Front Left: Blue, Rear
Right:
White, Rear left: Green. ALL of your negative leads
from your RCA cables
will be soldered to the black wire on the din
cable. I've done ONE
connection here for example's sake:
http://home.sprintmail.com/~wjcrabtree/DINrcajoined.JPGIn
this example, I have created the RCA output from the head unit to the
Front
Right input on the amplifier. After you have finished making
your
splices, insulate your connections with heat shrink tubing (electrical
tape
will do here, but is more sloppy). It's probably a good idea at
this point
to check the continuity of each of your connections to make sure
you don't
have any wires crossed or shorting on one another. For
instance, the
collars on ALL of your RCA plugs should ring the pin that
corresponds to the
black wire, but nothing else. If this is not the
case, you should
disassemble and find the problem. Before proceeding.
Don't forget to label
which RCA is for which input on your amp, or you'll be
cussing yourself
later.
You have one other hurdle to jump. It
seems that the factory amplifier in
this car is not turned on when the stereo
is turned on, rather it is on
whenever the ignition is turned on. MOST
aftermarket head units have a wire
(generally labeled REMOTE or AMP) that
specifically turns on the amplifiers
and other stereo accessories when the
head unit itself is turned on. The
Factory head unit has no such
control and therefore, if your key is on, your
amp is on.
My solution
to this problem is to install a simple switch that is tied to a
12(+) volt
lead and that is activated when the ignition is on or in the
accessory
position. This way, the amp is on when the ignition is on, unless
I
want to specifically have it off. Mount this switch wherever you
please.
IF you come up with a better solution to this problem, let me
know.
ONE OTHER IMPORTANT NOTE:
If you plan on removing the
factory amplifier as I did, you will lose power
to the head unit. Seems
someone decided that it was more efficient to loop
the 12 (+) for the head
unit through the amplifier and then to the head
unit. SIMPLE FIX:
Two blue wires on the factory harness go to the plastic
plug on the factory
amp. These wires are relatively larger than the other
wires going into
the amp. One comes from the fuse block (I'm assuming) the
other goes to
the head unit. Cut them off of the plug and splice them
together or
just strip part of each of the wires and jumper them together.
VOILA!
Power now goes STRAIGHT to the head unit. You can now safely
remove
that crappy little black box amplifier under the passenger's
seat.
Questions? Gripes? Improvements? Want to tell me I'm a
batshit loonball
and it can't be done? Drop me a line. I'm all
ears.
- -Jeff Crabtree
'91 R/T TT (3SI# 0499)
2K Jeep TJ
Sport
St. Louis, MO
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2003 23:34:07
-0700
From: "Grd4Spd Racing" <
grd4spdracing@cox.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 92' 3000GT VR4 Rebuild
>The biggest question is to use
original parts, or aftermarket.
depends on you needs and pocket
book ;)
> Does
> anyone know
> of any aftermarket
rod and piston sets that are better than the OEM stuff.
yes, CP Pistons
and Pauter rods.
> Any suggestion or comments on different brands of
Bearings, Rods, and
> Pistons will be appreciated.
CP Pistons
-
http://www.grd4spd.com/index.asp?spage=psearch&pid=719005&cat=homewe
currently dont have these Pauter rods listed, but we offer them with
a
discount....
http://www.pauter.com/mitsubishi.htmregards,
terry
"If
it doesnt make you go fast, we don't sell it"
Grd4Spd Racing -
www.grd4spd.com*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 15:01:03
+0200
From: "Roger L. Skoglund" <
norbolig@online.no>
Subject: Team3S:
Any experiences with Turbo Upgrade Kits, such as the GReddy
Turbocharger -
TD04L Upgrade Kit
Hello,
have anyone bought the GReddy Turbocharger
TD04L upgarde kit for the =
3000 GT V4-4, Twin Turbo ...? I have not found
much technical =
information for this kit on the producers web site.
What
is the power gain? Was it easy to mount? How big are the turbos? Is =
it any
better alternatives on the market for someone looking for a not =
so
expensive turbo upgrade...
Appreciate any comments.
Best
regards,
Roger L. Skoglund
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 13:13:18
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 92' 3000GT VR4 Rebuild
Terry,
Why are CP pistons, to
quote from your web site, the "best piston you can
buy"? Your web site does
not discuss the design or metallurgy of these pistons
(that I could find).
What *exactly* makes these pistons superior to, for example, Venolia,
Wiseco,
Ross, JE, or Arias pistons? Some details on the above 5 makes on my
web page
below.
http://www.stealth316.com/2-pistonguide.htmThanks,
Jeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 06:39:27
-0700
From: "Grd4Spd Racing" <
grd4spdracing@cox.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 92' 3000GT VR4 Rebuild
piston design, low silicone content
(.008), 2618 alloy, mfg to very high
tolerances, your pistons are made on the
same machines and by the same folks
(ie, not sub'd out) who make the racing
pistons for the various series, the
ultimate finish of the piston....it helps
to hold a CP next to another mfgs
piston and compare/contrast the quality of
the machining/finish and
craftsmanship, awesome.
the price is the same
for off the shelf or your custom piston. you spec the
CR, bore size, ect.,
same price.
http://cppistons.com/hope that
helps.
regards,
terry
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 14:57:22
+0000
From:
john.monnin@comcast.netSubject:
Re: Team3S: Porting N/A intake maniford to TT model
Steve Burrows at 3SX
has a NA intake on his extremely modified TT. I saw it
at
the
National Gathering. He did not have the car tuned yet so he could
not
comment if it was an improvment or not. He removed the
Variable intake
flapper becasue it is a restriction that will hurt top end
power. I think his
theory was to get more chamber volumn
cheaply.
I know that someone on 3si put a TT intake on a NA and his
G-force results
showed an overall loss of power.
P.S. This is the
first time I have used my internet remote access to this
email
account
so I have no idea if will come through clean or not.
John
Monnin
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 14:59:56
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Any experiences with Turbo Upgrade Kits, such as the
GReddy
Turbocharger - TD04L Upgrade Kit
I think the HKS and GReddy "TD04L"
upgrade turbos for our cars are simply the
factory MHI TD04L-13G-6cm2 turbos
(aka, Mitsubishi Sport Turbos) that are
found stock on European models and
that can be purchased at "discount" prices
from nearly any turbo shop here
in the USA. TEC sold them in 1998 for $1450
for the set (and added 15G
wheels for me for $600 more).
13G turbos are an excellent upgrade for our
cars. Quick spooling, decent
power, and do not require tons of upgrades to
take full advantage of. 15G
turbos are often built on 13G turbos and offer a
bit more top end (more boost
at redline) and only slightly slower spoolup.
13G or 15G equipped modified
engines usually see 15 psi by 3000 rpm in a
roll-on in low gear from a fast
idle.
There are also hybrids in the
same class: 13G wheels installed in 9B housings,
the TE04H 13C wheels
installed in 9B housings (aka DR500 and GT347), etc. 13C
and 13G wheels are
flow rated the same, about 360 cfm at 2.0 PR at 60%
efficiency. Cars with
13G turbos can easily turn mid-12s in the 1/4 mile (with
appropriate other
upgrades) with some driver's getting down into the 11's.
13G turbos are a
direct bolt-on upgrade. However, fuel and other mods are
required to take
full advantage of them.
Much more turbo upgrade info can be found on my
web page below, in the Team3S
archives, and on
www.3si.org.
http://www.stealth316.com/2-turboguide.htmJeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 12:17:02
-0400
From: "Ken Lovell" <
wklovell@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Any experiences with Turbo Upgrade Kits, such as the
GReddy Turbocharger - TD04L Upgrade Kit
Jeff,
You mentioned
that the 13Gs don't require tons of upgrades to take full
advantage.
What upgrades are required to take advantage of
them?
Ken
'97VR4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 10:25:36
-0600
From: Gabe Simoes <
Gabe92RTTT@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: RE: Team3S: Any experiences with Turbo Upgrade Kits, such as
the GReddy Turbocharger - TD04L Upgrade Kit
I will chime
in because I have GTP347s. You will need fuel (at LEAST
450cc
injectors and hotwire fuel pump), and BPU mods (Full exhaust,
intake, boost
control) to take advantage of these, as well as a better
clutch. I am
looking to max out the performance of my turbos next
with 660cc injectors,
MAFT, and upgraded intercoolers.
Gabe Simoes
1992 Dodge
Stealth R/T Twin Turbo
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 11:32:13
-0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
alex@kolosy.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Any experiences with Turbo Upgrade Kits, such as the
GReddy
Turbocharger - TD04L Upgrade Kit
You still need more fuel to be able to
run them. It's just that those
don't require a major upgrade to the fuel
system. I think an afc +
larger injectors (not much) should do
it...
Alex.
'95 VR4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 13:14:21
-0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Any experiences with Turbo Upgrade Kits, such as the
GReddy Turbocharger - TD04L Upgrade Kit
I'd think that to take "full"
advantage of them, you'd need bigger injectors
and a hard-wired Supra Pump
and perhaps some method of air-fuel control.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 17:27:25
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Any experiences with Turbo Upgrade Kits, such as the
GReddy
Turbocharger - TD04L Upgrade Kit
>> You mentioned that the 13Gs
don't require tons of upgrades
>> to take full advantage. What
upgrades are required to take
>> advantage of them?
Well aside
from any consideration of engine monitoring, detonation prevention,
and
drivetrain upgrades, and considering just the airflow ability of two 13G
turbos (~600-700 cfm depending on boost and RPM), I might suggest the
following upgrades.
Intake and fuel (lower budget and lower
performance):
- - freer flowing filter
- - APEXi S-AFC
- - 450 cc/min
injectors
- - Walbro fuel pump (12V supply)
Intake and fuel (higher
budget and higher performance):
- - freer flowing filter
- - ARC2 MAS and
controller, or VPC, or GM MAF-T
- - 550 cc/min injectors
- - Supra pump
(13.5V supply)
Exhaust:
- - gut precats (for off-road or private
property use only)
- - stock (low budget), or (higher budget) freer flowing
DP, main cat, and cat
back
Ignition:
- - stock, or copper
plugs
- - stock, or MSD low-resistance wires (kit)
BIG turbos, say
those that flow like 450+ cfm each, require much more
extensive fuel and
ignition mods and detonation prevention. Of course, any
upgrade or stock
turbo could benefit from better flowing heads, better intake
hoses/pipes,
better IC system, WI/AI/PI, yada, yada. :)
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 14:00:11
-0400
From: "anthonymelillo" <
anthonymelillo@sprintmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: spark plug hear range question
I am looking to change the plugs
in my 1997 VR-4, and am looking around at
options. I was told that
because of the open air filter,
and the JetChip ECU, I could "use a plug one
range colder to help better
dissipate heat from the combustion
chamber. If a spark
plug is to hot it will not dissipate the heat
properly and could cause engine
damage. The correct heat range spark plug
will assist
the vehicle in burning the fuel more efficiently."
Does
this sound like good advice ? Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks
My car can be found here with list of mods:
Anthony
Melillo
1997 VR-4, Firestorm Red
http://home.sprintmail.com/~anthonymelillo/3000gt.htm***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 12:13:53
-0600
From: Gabe Simoes <
Gabe92RTTT@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: spark plug hear range question
I don't think with your level
of mods a range colder would be
advisable. I use a range colder plug,
but I have 100+ more hp than a
stock car. I have heard, although I
don't know how sound the idea,
that for every 100 hp more you are making
over stock, go one range
colder. Of course there is a point where the
plugs start to foul, but
mine have done great so far.
I would
suggest staying at a stock heat range for your application.
Gabe
Simoes
1992 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin Turbo
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 11:22:45
-0600 (MDT)
From: Jim Floyd <
jim_floyd7@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: JetChip ECU
Tell us about the JetChip ECU. :
)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 13:32:50
-0500 (CDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: JetChip ECU
Oh god..
- ---
www.SpeedToys.com: Geoff Mohler
orders@speedtoys.comTeam3S/3Si.org
Vendor approved brake discounter; also,
parts for Toyota, Audi, BMW,
Mercedes, Porsche, SAAB, Volvo.
Where do you buy YOUR brakes? I can
help...asking is free! :)
"If its in stock, we have
it!"
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 14:30:31
-0400
From: Marc Jaffe <
marc@marcjaffe.com>
Subject: Team3S:
VR4 For sale: needs engine
Well...The car is for sale, It is too steep
for me to deal with.
New Toyo Proxies,=20
New front 17=B2Mille Spider Rims
(I still have the 18=B2 Chrome rims)
New AC
New front Brakes
New Flex
pipe
New front end, Hood, fenders,nose... Etc
Decent shape
1995, 121K
miles
In New York near NYC
Unless a miracle happens with Allstate this
is it for me.
Thanx
Marc
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 18:57:10
+0000
From:
mjannusch@comcast.netSubject: Re:
Team3S: spark plug hear range question
Your car is unmodded except for
the air filter. The JetChip ECU gets you a
shiny sticker on the ECU
and that's about all. Changing plug heat ranges
isn't going to do
anything for you. It would be best to go with another set
of stock
plugs, or at least the stock heat range on a different plug if you
are so
inclined to try something different.
When you get to 450+ HP start
thinking about plug heat ranges.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 21:02:43
+0100
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: battery drain / charging system problem
Okay, I got the fusible
links sorted (as Jim Berry said, the bolts are
accessible, except for the
front ALT bolt). Again, thanks for the
suggestions. I let the car
sit overnight with the alarm OFF (i.e.-doors
unlocked) and the battery still
discharged. Next I started pulling fuses in
the engine compartment to
see if any would reduce the current shown on my
multimeter. Here's what
I measured (with the meter set to 10A):
door open: 2.18 (1.12 with dome
light off, door lights on)
everything off: .10 - .13
pulling fuses in
engine bay makes no difference except for:
BAT: drops to .06 - .08
ALT:
drops to 0
I haven't studied the schematics yet, but I
assume that the BAT circuit
powers the fuse panel in the cockpit (which would
make up the .04-.05
difference), and I'm curious what else would draw an
additional .06-.08?
Also, should removing the ALT fuse break the circuit like
that?
- - --
Jim Matthews - Yorkshire, England
mailto:jim@the-matthews.comhttp://www.the-matthews.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 16:08:08
-0400
From: "Ken Stanton" <
ken.c.stanton@usa.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: spark plug hear range question
Well do you recommend that I
go 1 range colder? I'm estimated at 420hp
based on track time and
weight. I'm running:
19psi with Alky
Intake, exhaust,
precats
Real Poor Service Stage II clutch
Krankvents
Stock everything
else
I do get the occasional 5-10 counts of knock when running high boost
so I'm
thinking heat dissipation = good. Although I like getting 25mph
so I don't
want to hurt that.
Thanks!
Ken Stanton
91 Pearl White
Stealth TT
NSX Destroyer
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 14:16:23
-0600
From: Gabe Simoes <
Gabe92RTTT@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: spark plug hear range question
One range plug COULD get rid
of the knock that you see. Only way to
find out is to try, ;) I don't
get any knock and I am running 16psi to
redline with maxed 450cc injectors,
although I haven't made direct
comparisons with stock vs colder plugs.
Another way you can tell if
you are running to hot combustion chamber temps
is to look at the
threads on the plug. If more than 3-4 are scorched,
then you need
colder plugs.
Gabe Simoes
1992
Dodge Stealth R/T Twin Turbo
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 20:19:29
+0000
From:
mjannusch@comcast.netSubject: Re:
Team3S: spark plug hear range question
> Well do you recommend that I
go 1 range colder?
> I'm estimated at 420hp based on track time
and
> weight.
You can always go colder and not hurt anything,
however if you go too cold of
a range then the plugs will tend to foul
unless you run the car hard all the
time to burn the carbon deposits off the
plug.
I went one range colder and switched to NGK copper plugs, and
during the break-
in period I didn't have any fouling problems even though
the boost was way
down so the car wasn't making big power (or high heat to
clean the plugs).
Now it is around 450hp at 11 psi and no problems and
no knock (not like I
would expect any, however).
I guess I'd say if
you are turning up the boost and running
alky/water/whatever then you might
want to go one range colder just for a
little extra knock suppression and
safety factor. If the car is not modded or
only mildly modded then
there's probably not much point in changing heat
ranges (or changing to
copper plugs).
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 14:35:29
-0700
From: "Ioan Raicu" <
iraicu@cs.wayne.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: [mi3si] clutch pedal has no pressure ... I am $700
poorer, but
at least its fixed :)
Well, I fixed the car at the closest shop I
found. The parts that were
replaced were the slave clutch cylinder and
some hose. The number of
labor hours were 4.5 hours @ $88 / hour, $85
for the hose, $140 for the
slave clutch cylinder, so other fee of $20, they
used my oil, and
taxes... so the total cost comes out to something just under
$700. This
sounds like a rip off to me, but I needed the car ASAP, so I
didn't want
to bother with fixing it myself (would take too long), and I just
took
it at the fist shop I found (some gas station :(. The car is
already
fixed, so I have no choice but to pay these guys, but I am
just
wondering by how much I overpaid my little adventure!
John
Raicu
94 Yellow TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 18:23:55
-0500
From: "Wieschhaus, Brandon Kenneth (UMR-Student)" <
bwish@umr.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE:
[mi3si] clutch pedal has no pressure ... I am $700
poorer, but at least its
fixed :)
Holy Crikey!! Well, I don't know about the labor or your hose,
but I only paid
$42 for my clutch slave at my friendly, neighborhood
O'Reilly's... So, I guess
you paid over 3 times the amount for that... I
would guess about the same
trend for everything else... I wouldn't think a
hose would go for $85, and I
always thought that labor ran about $45-$60 an
hour...
-b
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 16:28:33
-0700
From: "Ioan Raicu" <
iraicu@cs.wayne.edu>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: RE: [mi3si] clutch pedal has no pressure ... I am $700
poorer, but
at least its fixed :)
The car got fixed in Santa Clara, CA (Silicon
Valley), so I believe the
labor rate of $88 / hour is reasonable, but I think
I got robbed on the
part prices, and even on the number of hours the whole
job took. I am
sure I am paying way too much, but hey, when you are
stuck and you need
your car fixed quick, sometimes you close your eyes and
just go ahead...
it is better than paying for rentals or towing the car,
etc...
Thanks for all who replied,
John Raicu
94
Yellow TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 16:59:37
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
RE: [mi3si] clutch pedal has no pressure ... I am $700
poorer, but at least
its fixed :)
Down here in Southern Californey the dealers are up to about
$100 per
hour --- damn crooks !!!! Why, back when I was a
kid --- before they
invented flat rate and
cars.
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 19:05:25
-0500 (CDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RE: [mi3si] clutch pedal has no pressure ... I am $700
poorer,
but at least its fixed :)
Whos the crook?
The guy tryin to stay in
business, or the landlord jackin up rents, the
elec and gas co jackin up
rates, the state spending money like a drunken
sailor during the stock boom
(based on short-term cap gains income)
instead of planning solely on the
standard reliable tax base?
Hmm?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 17:17:49
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
RE: [mi3si] clutch pedal has no pressure ... I am $700
poorer, but at least
its fixed :)
I think you'll find the labor rate in West Elbowpit
California isn't at the
$100 level.
It's more a matter of whatever the
market will bear --- the service department
is a
major profit center for
the dealer and if the customer is willing to pay the
price
that's where
it'll stay. I don't go to a dealer unless I get my 50% employee
discount
[ my son-in-law works for a dealer
]
Jim Berry
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 17:46:15
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
battery drain / charging system problem
At 1/10 of an amp the battery
should last for a couple of years.
You're probably looking at the radio
memory and the security
system. The ECU must have some activity
also.
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V2
#210
***************************************
